The Marblehead 50/800 Class

by Roy F. Clough

Mr. Clough is the designer of the 50/800 Class.

Model yachting has been growing in this country slowly but surely for a good many years, but since the introduction of the Marblehead 50/800 Class it has gone ahead by leaps and bounds. Never since model yachts have been sailed has a class met with such instant favor and popularity as this class has. Originated in the Marblehead Model Yacht Club it is now built and sailed in nearly every club in the country.

It is a class that anyone can build. Easy to construct and balance and a pleasure to sail. A boat that can easily be carried with you and can be put inside of any car and also a class that can be found in practically every town or city in the country where model yachts are sailed.

I can not too strongly urge anyone whether he is a beginner or a seasoned model yachtsman to build the Marblehead 50/800 Class and not waste his time putting in long evenings and a lot of work only to find when he is done that he has a mongrel class boat on his hands and no class to sail it in while his friends who have built to the Marblehead Class rules can find plenty of competition in this class anywhere.

The Marblehead 50/800 Class is a standard class and has been officially adopted by the Model Yacht Racing Association of America. It is the official class of nearly every club in this country and even in clubs that have sailed only the big International A Class, the Marblehead Class is now being built and sailed. It has also been officially adopted by the Ryde Model Yacht Club, Isle of Wight, England, and the Douglas Model Yacht Club, Isle of Man. The Ryde Model Yacht Club was the first club in England to officially adopt this class. This club was founded in 1874, has a large membership and is one of the most progressive clubs in England.

The class has done more to boost the sport of model yachting in the last three of four years than anything has ever done before. With the simple rules governing the class, one does not have to be a naval architect. Any man or boy can build this boat and it is the simplicity of the rules and the ease of building that has made it the largest recognized class in the world today. It has been the means of starting many new clubs and it has also been the means of bringing some of the older clubs back to life.

In regard to building this boat I would advise the beginner to design and build his own boat. One of the thrills of model yachting is to see your boat begin to take shape on paper; then in different stages of construction to see your own ideas being worked out in wood and finally the finished boat. You will get ten times the thrill if you win one race with a boat you designed and built yourself than you will ever get by winning ten races with boat designed by someone else. When YOUR boat crosses the finish line first you can proudly say, “I designed and built that boat.” If you can not or do not care to design your own boat you may buy blueprints of some very fine boats for two or three dollars.

Now just a word about finishing your boat. While any boat will sail with any set of sails, it is important that some care be taken. A good set of sails, and by a good set I mean a set that has driving power, is important if you are to get the maximum amount of speed out of your boat. The finish of your hull is also important and it is no harder to do a good job than it is to do a poor one. Even a good set of sails will not drive a poorly finished hull through the water fast enough to win races. So in all stages of construction take your time and do a good job; a job you will be proud of.

If there is a model yacht club in your town or city you should join at once. If your town has a pond but no model club, form one. If three of four interested fellows get together and build a model apiece and sail it whenever they can, the applications for membership will soon start coming in and in no time you will have a booming club.

In conclusion I want to say, always be a good sportsman. Take your losses in the same spirit that you take your winnings. If you do this you will enjoy to the utmost the Sport of Model Yachting, The Greatest Sport in the World.

Hull Restrictions

Hull 50” overall ¼” leeway either side of 50” measurement allowed. Movable keel, fin keels centerboards bilge boards, lee boards, bowsprits and overhanging rudders prohibited. Not allowed to change weight of lead during a series. Bumpers are not included in overall length but are limited to ½” overhang.

Sail Area Measurements

Sail area not to exceed 800 square inches. No fore triangle measurements, only actual sail measurements measured

Regulations For Measuring:

All points of measurements shall be definitely marked by a black band 1/16” wide on spare or stay beond which the sail must not extend, such band to be put on by the measurer.

The formula for computing area of sails is as follows:

Headsail Or Jib: The product of the length of luff multiplied by the shortest distance between luff and clew divided by two (2).

Mainsail: When this sail is of a triangular shape the area is found by multiplying the length of the luff by the shortest distance between measuring mark at end of boom and the mast and the product divided by two (2).

Battens: Four battens not more than 4” long in mainsail and three (3) not more than 2” long in jib are allowed.

Headboards: Headboards are allowed not exceeding ¾” across base.

Spars: Any increase of sail area obtained by the use of bent spars will be measured as a bow and included in the sail area

Hollow spars are allowed.

Models must always sail with spars as measured.

Spars not to be included in the sail measurement.

The greatest diameter of the spars is limited to ¾”.

There are no restrictions as to Scantlings or materials.

The gaff rig may be used on the Marblehead Class, with sail area limited to 800 inches.

There is no limit to height of spar.