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Full-size plans for a simple, inexpensive Gy SHROUD EYE —_—_— —— eee s— ems V——_—_ _— mite, we 1/4″ SCRAP TO REINFORCE — KEEL FIXING HOM? EYE… a \ af ee sine oi 4 or RUBBER ssh : | SHE | | | ; | | \ ‘ B3 — I | Vas) a \EL ee, ee ee ae foe TOTAL LE OF MAST can HOIST EYE BALANCE POINT 1/8″ PLY BOOM OF COMPLETED GOOSENECK —— MODEL BOWSI — EYE- HEET EYE \ a I . a | = Se Set fee eee eee i v \ SLOT IN HULL BOTTOM FOR KEEL ee I I I | TILLER, BANDUEYE * x Ne \ SHEET SII SHEET Gi : : \ : \ AUGUST dab FULL-SIZE PLANS FOR A 24 in. SIMPLE SAILING MODEL COSTING UNDER 10/DESIGNED BY VIC SMEED PROTOTYPE BUILT BY ALEC GEE ICK VEN in this mechanised age, most youngsters go through a period of intense interest in a Sailing model, and many middle-aged people still remember with nostalgia happy days spent sailing a model on the local paddling pool or canal. The proportion of such enthusias’s who seriously take up model yacht racing is relatively low, but the wish to have a go again lurks near the sur- face in many adults who have since followed other pursuits. This model, wie then, has a number of purposes. With imminent, holidays school younger readers can either build it or get Pop to do it for them. More senior readers anxious to see if they can still fetch up where expected will be tempted, and, of course, beginners of any age who are thinking in terms of a simple sailing boat will find it meeting their requirements. Obviously such a model must be extremely simple and quick to build, of easily available materials and at the lowest possible cost. It should also have reasonably good performance, Dabchick fits the specificatoin to a T; it could hardly be simpler, it can be built in evenings (genuinely!), the materials can be bought where remotely civilised, and the cost is less than It is easy to sail and for its size has excellent formance, two any10/-. per- To start with, it is another of our famous “four sheets of balsa’ projects—two sheets of 4 in. X 3 for the deck etc. and two of 4 in. for the rest. To be on the safe side, make the latter one of 4 in. X 3 and one 4 X 4. Add a scrap of 4 in. ply for the keel, a 3% in. dowel for the mast and a } in. ditto for the booms, a polythene bag for the sails, and that’s all apart from odd details. 1963 iron scrap. If you have experience or facilities, casting bulbs is the best way, but the main thing is to have close to 2 lb. of ballast and to balance the hull, at this stage, no further aft than the junction of the fin trailing edge with the hull bottom. Glue the mast step on deck and fit all screw-eyes on deck. If each eye is screwed in, removed, the hole cemented, and the eye replaced, adequate strength will be achieved. Fit the rudder, bending the wire forward and finishing in a nearly-closed loop as shown ;_ ensure that the rudder swings freely. Cut a 30 in. length of * in. dowel and taper the top 12 in.: this is easiest by planing to an octagon, then sanding. Bind with thread at heel and points at which eyes will fit. Drill heel and screw in a cup-hook ; cut off hook to leave straight peg to engage i mast step. Fit medium screw-eye for gooseneck and small eyes for rigging. Cut + in. booms, bind and insert eyes, engage main boom with gooseneck. Varnish mast and booms. Woolworths sell a polythene wardrobe bag with bound edges for 2/-; cut sails from this, using bound edges for luffs Genin: edges) of sails. Reinforce corners with patches of polythene stuck on with Evo-Stik. Sew bottom corners (tacks and clews) to booms, keeping sail foot taut but not stretched. Sew main luff to mast, keeping taut by sewing tight to mast-head eye. Now set up mast and rig as drawn, then sew. jib luff to forestay. By using hooks the mast and sails complete can be quickly removed for easy transport. Use thin fishing line for rigging; Ripmax supply suitable hooks and_ plastic bowsies, or these can easily be made, Fit a rubber band from tiller loop to eye in front, and the model is ready to sail. Balance gives good 2 Ib.-7 Oz, point is not too critical; results. All-up weight that on plan of prototype was First lift wires and detach centre pages and tape to remainder of plan. Trace and cut the deck halves, stem, and bulkheads and glue up as in the photograph. Cut the fin keel and cement in place; note scrap pieces to Set up at pondside, check that mast js vertical, jib boom clears mast, and luffs of both sails are taut. Free booms off to about 30° (always keep booms parallel) and set off across wind. Boat should make a course at internal member and rudder tube (16 s.w.g. brass or Ripmax lightweight unit, tube of which will not quite mast heel forward in step, and vice versa. For reaching (across) or running (downwind) hook mainsheet into tiller loop and adjust strength of rubber band so that boat just corrects in gusts and maintains a straight course. Fancier steering devices and/or deck details such as a cockpit can be added if desired, but the basic model as it stands is good for hours of pondside pleasure. locate top and relieve side strains. Ensure that fin is vertical. Cut hull bottom (make it about } in. longer than drawn), slot for fin, and cement in place. Add reach, so extend top with gum-paper roll or soldered scrap of tube) then sand sides with long sanding block, bevelling edges of deck and bottom to receive side skins. Skin with short lengths of } in. sheet, grain vertical, from transom forward. You may like to waterproof 45° or so to the wind. If it heads up into gusts, move inside with banana oil or thin paint as work progresses. It would also be possible to build with 4 in. ply deck, bottom, and bulkheads, and skin with 7 in. ply. Hull can now be tissue-covered (use clear dope to brush the tissue on) and painted to choice. The keel weight is not really critical, but should be between 14 and 2 Ib. The easiest way is to buy or scrounge lead roofing sheet and cut a number of shapes a little over the required weight. Bolt in place at bottom of fin and trim to a reasonable streamline shape; weigh bare hull first and weigh periodically while shaping lead to check that lead weight is correct. Alternatives are flattened lead pipe, plumbers’ solder (a bit expensive!) or suitable 389 Le. Pa — (WOSNV4¥D)_ BULKHEADS 1, 2, 3, 4 1/8*- SHEET — MAINSAIL HOIST EYE B2 J OUTLINE OF MAINSAIL serie oi oes NOTE: HALF BULKHEADS SHOWN; TRACE & REVERSE 4 HOOK EN: | N DECK § Bie See HOOK 83 METHOD OF FITTING BOWSIE AE
