Model Boats for Juniors by Claude W. Horst – 1936

MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS A thirty-inch model of a large power yacht in action MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS By CLAUDE WILLIAM HORST, M.A. Instructor Extracurricular Boat Building Milwaukee Vocational School Milwaukee, Wisconsin THE BRUCE NEW YORK PUBLISHING MILWAUKEE COMPANY CHICAGO Copyright, 1936 CLAUDE WILLIAM HORST Printed in the United States of America (Second Printing — 1939) INTRODUCTION For many years model sailboats have been a source of pleasure to youngsters and grown-ups models of modern boats offer as a leisure-time project in skilled woodworking. alike. There is a real fascination in acquiring the Most of the models described are shaped from tricks of construction and operation which result a solid block. This makes a good sturdy boat in an efficient use of the wind’s motive power. which is much simpler to construct than the But during the last few years the development more elaborate built-up models in which care of many efficient new power plants has greatly stimulated the interest in powered models of all and accuracy are required to prevent the shifting of the pieces during the gluing process. The types and sizes so that it now seems that they last two models introduce this type of construc- will become as popular as sailing models. This tion which offers greater opportunity for exact- introduces a new sport which may be enjoyed ness in following the design. indoors as well as out since power boats require All the models are made to be used. All are no wind. Very interesting races and regattas may excellent for open-water navigation, and the be staged in almost any swimming tank. power boats are highly successful for operation This volume contains a variety of different in indoor swimming tanks. Tugs and freighters, types of models which are arranged in the order when evenly matched, make a race that is just of their building difficulty. The “Toy Boats” of as exciting as that of any other type. In fact, Chapter I are very simple in design and well several tugs with scows in tow make a very in- within the ability of beginners to build, yet in teresting race. ; general appearance are fairly true to the type It is hoped that the arrangement of drawings they represent. The last model in the book is one and illustrations will tell the story for most that will challenge the skill of an expert crafts- builders without the necessity of very much man, and gives an idea of the possibilities that reading. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION . 5 CHAPTER 9 I. Toy Boats An eight-inch runabout. A twelve-inch runabout. A ten-inch catboat. A twelve-inch toy sailing sloop. Tanks for toy boats. IL. III. Toots, Woops, AND FINISHING . 19 CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE 22 Laying out the templates. Marking and cutting the block. Shaping the hull. The keel. Decks and deck beams. The stand. Finishing the hull. The cabins. IV. 35 Power Boat MopDELs A sixteen-inch speed boat. An eighteen-inch cabin cruiser. A twenty-inch tugboat. An eighteen-inch scow. A twentyfour-inch express cruiser. A twenty-two-inch ocean-going tramp steamer. 48 POWER PLANTS AND FIXTURES Installation of motors. Fixtures. VI. SAILING Boats ek we we wm Re Ow 58 An eighteen-inch catboat. A twenty-five-inch sloop. Sailing kinks. VII. VIII. A Tutrty-INcH MoDEL OF A LARGE POWER YACHT 66 REGATTAS 74 GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS . 75 INDEX 7 Chapter I TOY BOATS Each of the toy boats described in this chapter an expansion bit are always useful and some- resembles, in the main, the type it represents. times make the work easier or more accurate. Of course, they have all been modified consider- Finish. The finishing, by means of paint and ably to make them sufficiently simple and easy varnish, is very simple on toy boats although to build so that they may be within the skill and varnish and bright paint make the models so ability of juniors when they are first developing much more realistic and of course help to pre- an interest in model making. Since they are con- serve them from the action of water. The hulls structed the boats are all are usually painted white above the water line strong enough to stand a great deal of very and red or green below, but toy boats allow lee- rough usage. way in this matter. Varnish, with or without of a solid block, _ Tools. Almost any kind of softwood that has stain, may be used for the decks and for the a good straight grain, and is free from knots and spars of the sailboats. other defects may be used to make the boats. Construction Procedure. The processes of Very few tools are necessary. A saw, a plane, a hull construction are the same for all the models brace and bit, a chisel, a vise of some kind, a try in this group. The steps are described in some square, sandpaper in coarse and fine grades, and detail for the Eight-Inch Runabout (Fig. a workbench of some sort, is sufficient. Any other which is placed first, and the same instructions tools such as a drawing knife, nail set, gouge, and may be followed for the others. 1) An Eight-Inch Runabout Secure a piece of material 114 by 2% by 8 in. Step 3. in length. Step 1. Lay off the curves for both sides of the top according to the dimensions given in On this block draw a center line as Plate I. Draw in the curve and the block is ready shown in Figure 2. to cut out (Fig. 4). l ° a i711 KO Fig. 1. Step 2. a 2% Step 4. With the aid of a try square, draw t lhe Fig. 2. An eight-inch runabout 4 Block showing center line To saw out the block, place it in a lines 2 inches apart crosswise on top of the block, vise and make a number of parallel cuts almost as shown in Figure 3. to the line, as shown in Figure 36, Chapter ITI. 9 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 10 — Sections.asy= SIDE VIEW 8° BOAT. Plate I until the block is the required thickness as given in the drawing, Plate I. Work toward the front; 1/16 in. of the line. al from the entire Step 5. Finish to the line very carefully with plane away the surplus materi bottom and round off the edges (Fig. 7). a plane (Fig. 5). Step 8. Remove the scrap material from the “ = (=> a ae a top surface and clamp the block to the bench top so that the inside may be hollowed out (Fig. 42 ). Step 9. Hollowing the inside may be made easier by first boring a series of holes along the the center line (Fig. 43, Chap. III). If possible an auger bit the size indicated on the drawing Fig. 3. Block with crosswise lines should be used. Otherwise it is necessary to drill the end holes Step 6. To aid in shaping the bottom of the several rows of smaller holes. Bore With a chisel remove the stock to within about block, screw to the top surface, a piece of scrap material measuring about 1 by 34 by 4 in. by ——— Fig. 4. Block with top curve marked which the block may be clamped in a vise (Fig. 6). Step 7. To shape the bottom use a plane. Begin at the back end and cut away the material first. Be sure that the auger bit is on the center line and just the distance from either end which is indicated on the drawing (Plate I). Care must be taken not to bore too deeply. To make sure of the correct depth a hole might first be bored in a piece of scrap material and the turns counted to discover how many turns are needed. In case a mistake is made and the spur comes through the hull, the hole may be plugged with plastic wood. Step 10. With a gouge or chisel clean out all: surplus stock from the inside and smooth the surface with coarse sandpaper. If the auger bits are not at hand all the hollowing may be done with the chisel or a gouge. TOY BOATS Fig. 5. Step 11. Finishing the outside curves with a plane Fig. 6. The hull is now ready for a final 11 Block held in vise with aid of a piece of scrap band motor such as is described in Figure 9, may sanding with fine paper and whatever paint and _ be attached to this boat. varnish the builder wishes to apply. A rubber- A Twelve-Inch Runabout Figure 8 and Plate II show a larger toy run- about which is just as simple to build as the Eight-Inch Runabout and with a rubber-band strong and will stand much rough usage. Secure a piece of material 2 by 3% by 12 in. is Z? = SS ne (ef{{Cet eS27aZL, S SE motor operates very satisfactorily. It is very —— (O0OOHoOOooOD – in length. The construction of the hull is iden- tical with that of the Eight-Inch Runabout already described. Use the dimensions given for the Twelve-Inch Boat in Plate II, and follow the construction steps just as they are given for the smaller boat. Fig. 8. A twelve-inch runabout MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 12 2 e oral 3 e- ~ = Ny – Ps ico sy eats a4 Ny . ce oF: VIEW. TOP an Aa Deck Live. _ | 2 “s | fort t04 poaaes a a hu We VIEW. Side meee es – —_—- — — a ee Se ee fo al eaP= | ! oe / CROSS SECTIONS. HULL DRAWINGS. Plate II When the hull is completed, sand it carefully and paint it neatly, being careful that each coat is thoroughly dry before another is applied. Painting or varnishing a boat on the inside is always advisable as it prevents the wood from front of the boat, and to the propeller shaft which, in turn, is supported by two cotter pins. The cotter pins are driven into the bottom of the y Lye G —__i. r 5 Showing Details of Tubhin Bead. Rubber Motor Fig. 9 oO ‘ absorbing water and becoming heavy, and, of ~ course, rotting much more quickly. A Rubber-Band Motor makes a very suitable power plant for a small boat (Fig. 9). It is simple to make, costs practically nothing, and is easily repaired when damaged. It consists of a rubber band which is attached to a nail near the Rubber Motor Ass embly. Fig. 10 boat near the rear, or aft, end and serve as bearings. They should be 1% in. long and rather light (Fig. 10). Holes slightly smaller than the 13 TOY BOATS peg “S| —/JSL La, 5 – 2+ =] 7 | | Le wie \ | Propeller Fig. 11 4 Le Fig. 12. Paddle wheel made of %-in. stock Fig. 13. A twelve-inch boat with a paddle wheel pins must be drilled, as otherwise the pins cannot be driven in. The propeller shaft is a piece of ordinary wire. Spring brass is especially good as it will not rust. One end of the length of wire is bent into a hook to hold the rubber band. The Propeller is made as shown in Figure 11 and it is soldered to the shaft. Since the propeller must not come into contact with the cotter pins, a spacer must be placed between the aft cotter pin and the propeller (Fig. 10). This may be a short piece of 1%-in. O.D. tubing, or a bead. To assemble, place the cotter pins into the holes already drilled, attach the rubber band, and the boat is ready for action. A paddle wheel operated by a rubber band may also be used (Figs. 12 and 13). A small Rudder may also be made, if desired, by placing a small blade of tin between the arms of a cotter key (Fig. 14). A drop of solder at the bottom will hold the blade in place. A rather small hole should be drilled for the rudder so it will be a tight fit and retain any desired angle. Rudder Fig. 14 If at any time the hole becomes worn through use, simply spread the cotter-key arms at the upper end and the rudder will again be tight. MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 14 A Ten-Inch Catboat The Spars. After the hull is shaped, carefully sanded, and painted, the rigging, shown in Figure 16 may be put in place. The mast and boom are best made of spruce. Drill each piece as shown in the drawing, Figure 16. For a drill use a %-in. No. 20 brad from which the head has been removed. The gooseneck is very simple to make. Place a small screw eye in the end of the boom and attach it to the small wire staple which is driven into the mast. Drill holes in the mast for the staple using a 14-in. No. 20 brad from which the head has been removed. The Sails are made of muslin which is best shrunk by being thoroughly wet with water and pressed with a hot iron before it is cut. In laying out the sail on the material note carefully the direction of the lengthwise thread of the goods and be sure that the right edge of the sail is laid parallel to it as shown in the drawing. The sails may be laced to the boom and the mast or not as Fig. 15. A ten-inch catboat This boat resembles the Cape-Cod catboats which are famous the world over for their sea- worthiness and sailing performance. Secure a piece of material 114 by 4% by 10 in. in length. The procedure in shaping the hull is exactly the same as that used in shaping the hull of the little runabouts. The instructions given for the Eight-Inch Runabout may be followed using the dimensions given for the catboat in Plate ITI. desired. Tying the ends is sufficient for this model. To aid in fastening it small eyelets may be made in the corner of the sail as shown in Figure 16. The lower end of the halyard may be fastened to a rubber band which in turn is slipped over a 1%-in. brad which is used instead of a cleat. This method holds the sail up in good shape especially if the band has been stretched in slipping it over the brad. The completed Ten-Inch Catboat is shown in Figure 15. A Twelve-Inch Toy Sailing Sloop This sloop resembles the modern type which is used both for racing and for pleasure sailing. Boats of this type are easy to handle, fast, and seaworthy (Fig. 19). Secure a piece of material 2 by 3 by 12 in. for the hull. The procedure in shaping the hull is identical with that used in shaping the hulls of the runabouts already described. The directions given for the Eight-Inch Runabout may be fol- lowed just as they are except that the dimensions given in Plate IV for the sloop are to be used. The Fin. After the hull has been completely shaped inside and out, shape and attach the fin which should be made of hardwood or otherwise TOY BOATS . 15 SAIL PLAN of 10° CAT BOAT. Fig. 16 it will soon be broken. The dimensions are given mensions given on the drawing. The holes shown on the cross sections in Plate IV which also are drilled with a %4-in. No. 20 brad from which shows the dimensions of the slot into which the the head has been removed. fin is fastened with waterproof glue. To lay out the slot first draw a center line on the bottom of the hull and then mark the length of the slot as given on the drawing. Use a 1%-in. chisel to cut the slot. Smooth the sides with a flat wood file. Try the fin in the slot and then plane down The boom is attached to the mast by means of a gooseneck which is made by placing a small screw eye in the end of the boom, attaching it to the mast with a small staple made of a paper clip. It is necessary to drill small holes for the staple. A 14-in. No. 20 brad from which the head When the glue around the fin is thoroughly has been removed makes a good drill. The Sails. The sails are made of muslin. It is wise to shrink the material before cutting it. set give the hull a final sanding and apply the This is done by wetting it thoroughly with water the fin or enlarge the slot until the fin is a tight fit. paint. The Spars. The rigging details are given in Figure 18. The mast and the boom should be made of spruce and shaped according to the di- and pressing it with a hot iron. In laying out the sail on the material note carefully the direction of the lengthwise thread of the muslin and be sure that the right edge of the sail is laid parallel MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 16 ra ,“ oz : 2 = 7 N 2 _ iy “Se pif AE i 1 TOP VIEW CROSS SECTIONS Plate III 12 ) Ss i “=P CROSS —~ 22 WN Zs SECTIONS. SLOOP Plate IV as- TOY BOATS to it as shown in the drawing. The sails may be 17 laced to the boom and the mast or not as desired. bands which in turn are stretched over a small brad. A small piece of %-in. board rounded off A fastening at each end is sufficient. Small wire in front is nailed to the top of the hull, as shown Fig. 17. Block for twelve-inch sloop ready to round bottom hooks made of paper clips may help in fastening in the sails. The halyards for both jib and mainsail strength by being passed through this board in may be held tight by fastening them to rubber the front of the cockpit. Figure 18. The mast is given additional “he | —_—-—-—L. N \ Mast Ffole.. Fasten a Slab ge Material over of Front End of Cockpit to help Support Mast. Rubber an Bana— 5 > Brad—_ 2 esN If N 74 ed Iq Dia—/ast x SA/L PLAN Fig. 18 of /2°SL00P Fah pn : 42 m7 eae 7 aah —~ 18 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS Fig. 19. Twelve-inch sloop Tanks for Toy Boats These small boats may be operated in a small pool, a tank, or the bath tub. A small tank can be constructed of wood or sheet metal at a very small cost. A tank 3 feet by 6 feet and about 6-in. deep would make a nice body of water. This can be placed in the yard or even in the basement because it does not take up very much space (Fig. 20). Fig. 20. Tank for toy boats Chapter II TOOLS, WOODS, AND FINISHING Tools. The building of simple boat models Either a woodworking or a metalworking vise does not require many tools and may be carried is almost essential. It should be securely fastened on in the most unpretentious of workshops. Most to a table or some type of workbench. boys who are interested in home woodworking Wood projects will already have acquired the most essential tools needed. Standard brands of those For Painted Hulls. Many different kinds of tools that must be purchased for the job in hand wood are suitable for boat construction. Almost can sometimes be picked up very cheaply in any kind of soft, fine-grained wood will do for secondhand stores. It is better to buy used tools the hull, especially if the boat is to be painted, of well-known brands than new cheap ones of which is the usual finish for most boats. White- uncertain quality. wood is probably the most ideal and the best- The following is a list of the tools that are especially useful: 1. A fine-toothed crosscut saw known material for boat models, as it is light in weight, has practically no grain, and is easy to work. It has been used very extensively by pro- An 8-in. coping-saw frame and blades fessional model makers for years. White pine is A 34-in. chisel an excellent material. It resembles whitewood A 34-in. gouge but is not so finely grained. Often local woods A block plane may be found that are highly satisfactory. A jack plane Natural Finish. Jf a dark natural finish is de- A small claw hammer sired the choice is rather limited. This finish is A drawknife usual for runabouts, certain types of cruisers, 9. Asmall, fine wood-rasp and for the decks and cabins of other models. 10. A large wood file Walnut and Honduras mahogany are perhaps 11. A spokeshave the wisest choices. 12. An auger brace and bits Selection. Care must be taken to select lum- 13. Six 4-in. C clamps ber that has been well seasoned. Lumber which 14. A screw driver has just been cut contains a very high percentage 15. A small chuck drill (to take a No. 60 drill) of moisture. It is likely to warp, shrink, and 16. Outside calipers check as it dries out, consequently it does not 17. A nail set take a good finish and is not satisfactory to use 18. A try square for model making. Lumber that has been air- 19. Sandpaper in grades No. 1/2, 2/0, and 5/0. dried is much better than that which has been It is also a great help to have a few metal- kiln-dried, as kiln-drying has a tendency to make working: tools, such as: the wood hard and brittle. 1. A 6- or 8-in. rattail file Wood for model making should be free from 2. Soldering equipment such defects as wormholes, knots, cracks, or 3. A 5- or 6-in. triangular file stains. The grain or rings should run as parallel 4. Tin shears as possible to the surface of the boards from 19 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 20 which the hull is to be made. This is especially true if the grain is coarse, as otherwise it is hard to get a smoothly finished surface. Wood Finishing Preparing the Surface. The surface to be painted or varnished should be inspected very carefully to see that there are no irregularities on it. Dents may often be removed by the application of a small pad of cotton waste which has been soaked in very hot water. Leave the pad on the bruise a few seconds, dip it in the hot water and apply it again. Scratches left from sanding across the grain show plainly through varnish. It is usually necessary to use a scraper and then resand to remove them entirely. Every trace of glue on any surface to be varnished must be removed as stain will not pen- etrate through glue, and every speck of it leaves a light spot. Imperfections in the surface are not covered up by the finish, but show up even more plainly | in the completed project, so too much care can comes from the can. The application of a coat of half flat paint and half enamel, while often omitted, insures a more durable and better appearing surface. The sanding, after it is dry, must be done very care- fully and every trace of dust removed before the final coat of enamel is applied. The final coat should be of enamel just as it comes from the can. It should be applied in a particularly careful manner in a dust-free room having a temperature of between 70 and 80 degrees F. When a dust-free room is not avail- able, a small “tent” of muslin and an improvised frame may be made to serve the purpose. The Underwater Body. A definite water line gives a boat a much snappier appearance. It is secured by painting the underwater body a different color than the top sides. The color is made to extend a little above the actual water line and this extension of the color is called “boot topping.” The water line may be located by floating the complete model in a tank or tub of water. Power second coat until the first is perfectly dry. Paint models should have the power plants installed first as they weigh down the boat considerably. Several points should be marked at the exact water line and then a line drawn around the boat 1% in. above this will indicate the correct division between the top side and the under- should be applied very thinly and brushed out water body. hardly be taken with the final sanding. Sandpaper which seems a bit coarse may be made less abrasive by rubbing two pieces together. Paint. It is never safe to apply more than one color to the boat at one time, nor to put on the well. It should be stirred frequently while it is being used. The priming coat is very important as it pro- vides a foundation which aids the other coats in adhering to the wood. It should be thinner and contain more oil than the others as the wood will absorb more of this coat than of the others. Turpentine hastens the drying and aids the oil to penetrate the wood. _ The third coat should be applied just as it From one to three days should be allowed be- tween coats for the paint to dry. The surface should then be made smooth with 5/0 sandpaper. The second coat should be thinned only with turpentine in about the proportions of 1 part of turpentine to 8 parts of ready-mixed flat paint. Since enamel does not adhere to a wet surface, the boat should be dried thoroughly and then two or three coats of colored enamel or marine paint applied. Almost any dark color is suitable, but red and green are the conventional ones. Each coat must be given sufficient time to dry and the gloss should be removed from all but the last coat by very gentle sanding with fine paper. While painting the underwater body the boat should be kept in an upright position to prevent any of the dark paint from running over on the top sides and making a messy job. One way of doing this is to tip the boat over on one side, paint the other side, allow it to dry, and then reverse the process. Another way is to suspend TOOLS, WOODS, AND FINISHING 2) cabin may be removed from power models and varnish should be used as it comes from the can. Varnishing should be done in a warm, well- the hull suspended from hooks placed under each ventilated room that is free from dust. The var- the boat in midair at a convenient height. The beam. Sailboats may be suspended by placing a nish should be flowed on, covering the surface noose under each end above the water line, as well. At least 48 hours should be allowed be- the overhang allows ample room for this. tween coats for drying. It should then be sanded most very carefully. Use a very fine sandpaper and models are made of hardwood and finished in a always rub with the grain of the wood. The final natural color with spar varnish, which is water- coat should be applied with great care and given proof. It is usually desirable to apply some stain at least three days to dry. Varnish. The decks and cabins of Fig. 23. Simulated planking to deepen the color of the wood and bring out the natural beauty of the grain. Oil stains are dium luster, the final coat is rubbed down with usually the most satisfactory to use. a The woods most likely to be used in model boat construction have an open grain and need FF pumice stone. This must be done very care- the pores filled to produce a really smooth var- varnish. Whenever that happens another coat nish surface. If a regular filler is not used it is of varnish must be applied. To finish, the sur- necessary to use many more coats of varnish and to sand each very thoroughly. Some model face may be rubbed very gently with another makers prefer to do it that way. Wood filler is made of linseed oil, japan drier, turpentine, and silex. It is very easy to mix, but the model maker To remove the high gloss and produce a mefelt dampened with water and dipped in fully so as not to break through the final coat of pad dampened in paraffin oil and dipped in rottenstone. This finishing adds to the appear- ance of the model but is not at all essential. Nai Heads. All nails used in the deck should uses such small quantities that it is best to buy be countersunk with a very small nail set. Be- ready-mixed filler. Filling and staining may be done in one operation by thinning the filler fore the final coats of varnish are applied, the paste with the oil stain in the desired shade. The filler should be thin enough to work fréely. If it is not, it should be thinned with benzine or tur- holes should be filled with paste wood filler of the proper color, or with a little melted orangecolored stick shellac. Simulated Planking. Whenever it is desirable pentine. It is applied with a brush, allowed to to show planking, the effect should be produced stand a short while until it becomes dull, and on the deck before the final coats of varnish are then all the surplus paste must be removed, first applied. The simplest method is to draw lines with burlap and then with clean cotton rags, with a ruling pen, drawing ink, and a straight- wiping always across the grain. The job should edge. Another way is to cut grooves in the deck be allowed to dry for 24 hours and then sanded with a sharp tool and a straightedge, apply some carefully with fine sandpaper to produce an even coloring matter to the grooves with a brush and surface for the subsequent coats of finish. then wipe the deck with a rag. The color remains At least three coats of varnish are necessary. in the grooves, after which the final coat or two The first coat should be thinned with turpentine of varnish should be applied in the usual manner. in the proportion of about 1 part of turpentine Figure 23 shows the result. to 7 parts of varnish. For the other coats the Chapter III CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE Most of the models described in this book are Most of the construction steps for the V-bot- made from a solid block of wood. This method of construction produces a sturdy boat that will tom and the round-bottom models are identical, and the drawings showing the development of stand a great deal of rough usage without serious V-bottom top-view and profile templates apply injury. also to the round bottoms. Whenever there is a > A P73 t *) “ 4 ! Ss J) Top View Template Stock. Fig. 24 The thickness of the hull shell ranges from 3/16 to 1/4 in. If a great deal of care is taken difference in the construction of the two types it may be made even thinner. The lighter the the instructions are presented in parallel columns, and separate drawings are made as re- hull shell the faster the boat will travel, but, of quired. A Sixteen-Inch V-bottom Model (Plate course, it will also stand less abuse and much VII and Fig. 52, Chap. IV), and an Eighteen- ey 4 FF 4 2 4” Use |Lower = Edge|as Stations / s- Center wie _|Line. == Marked. Fig. 25 care must be taken in hollowing it out or the Inch* Round-bottom Model gouge will go through the hull. In the construction of model boats it is always Figs. 53A and 53B, Chap. IV), are used to illus- (Plate VIII and trate the steps. advisable to make templates, or patterns, of the various curves and then apply these in marking Laying Out the Templates Step 1. the block from which the boat is to be made. Secure template material which will a much more accurate be ample in size for the job. At least two pieces job and it also saves time if several models are to be made from the same design. Templates are needed for all types of boats; one for the may be made of cardboard or thin plywood. plate. Each must be fully as long as the boat and This procedure assures top-view template, and one for the profile tem- 22 23 CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE becomes line 5, which is now considered the aft end of the boat. These lines just drawn are called a trifle wider than the dimensions given on the drawing. The template material must have square corners and smooth straight edges all stations. Step 4. The edge toward the worker is used as the center line. Using the dimensions given between the center line and the outside curve around. Step 2. The Top-View Template. Place the long edge of the template stock (Fig. 24) toward 4 : $ 3 ost i \ { { a ‘ wi with Stations Oimensions Fig. 26 ae ee — ss a i ee s~ 7Too-biew *. “XN \ Template readty yo be Cur Fig. 27 Stations Orawn on Profile Templare Fig. 28 ~Iou TT ee a Deak bie 7 Leck Line brawn on ——oeeeee Template Stock Fig. 29 the workman, and locate the points for lines 1, 2, 3, and 4, as they are shown on the top-view drawing, Plate VII. Step 3. With the aid of a try square draw lines 1, 2,3, and 4 through the points just found (Fig. 25). The left-hand edge of the material on lines 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, on Plate VII, locate points through which the deck line will be drawn (Fig. 26). Step 5. Secure a flexible wooden spline some 1% in. by 3/16 in. and a couple of inches longer than the boat. Tack the spline lightly to the tem- 24 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 7 i a i‘ ~ a 8 | a Ponts Spotted on Stations ror Botton Curve of Profile Template Fig. 30 plate material along the points just located and Step 9. To draw the bottom curve of the draw the curve. Figure 27 shows the completed profile template, measure down from the deck curve. line just drawn, the distances given on the vari- Step 6. Cut out the template, sawing very ous station lines in the drawing, Figure 30. Use carefully on the outside of the line. A coping the flexible spline previously described and draw saw, a turning saw, or a band saw may be used the line through the points just located as far as Dit Profile Template ready to be Cur a Fig. 31 for the purpose. Finish to the line with a plane. station 1 (Fig. 30). To complete the curve to The top-view template is now ready to use. the bow of the boat, draw 1%4-in. squares as Draw lines shown in Figure 31. Then draw the curved line 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the material for the profile Step 7. The Profile Template. with the aid of a French curve, or freehand if template just as they were drawn for the top- necessary. view template (Fig. 28). Step 8. Step 10. The deck line for all the boats in this Cut and finish the profile templates as directed for the top-view template. 7 Fig. 32. Profile template applied to side of block group is a straight line. To locate it, at the aft end of the template material measure down Step 11. Models. Bottom V-bottom Template models for require V-Bottom a bottom from the top edge the distance given on the template which is made exactly as the two just drawing, Plate VII. Connect this point with the developed. Secure template material the length top edge at the front or bow end of the template of the boat and a trifle wider than the drawing (Fig. 29). gives for the dimensions of the finished template. CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE _ Use the bottom edge of the material as a center line and measure up according to the dimensions given on the bottom template drawing. Cut and finish as directed for the other templates. The 25 to make templates of all cross sections having difficult curves. Reproduce upon the template material the rounded cross-section curves which determine templates for the V-bottom hull are then ready the shape of the hull at their respective places. to use. The drawings of all cross sections of round- Step 11. Station Bottom Models. Templates for Round- bottom models have 14-in. squares drawn upon Round-bottom models require them. To reproduce any or all of the cross sec- cross-section or station templates in addition to top-view and profile templates. These are made tions simply draw 14-in. squares on the template material and then refer to the line drawings of of the same material as the others. The number of cross-section templates used depends on the the round-bottom model to be built and draw the degree of accuracy desired by the builder. In For this model these are shown in Plate VIII. order to get a really accurate job it is advisable Marking and Cutting the Block The size of the block required for each model is taken from the drawings. Step 12. Cut and finish as directed for the other templates. edge of the top template on the center line and draw the outside curve. Turn the template over and repeat the process (Fig. 34). Step 15. Mark both sides of the block using the profile template as shown in Figure 32. Fig. 33. Step 13. curves for which the templates are to be made. It is necessary to mark the station lines before the top of the block is shaped. Spot the points for the station lines 1, 2, 3, and 4 Block cut to profile template Cut the block as marked, using a along the center line and then, with the aid of a drawknife, a chisel, or a band saw if one is avail- try square, draw lines across the block through able. The line must be left showing on the block. these points (Figs. 35A and 35B). Finish to it very carefully with a plane. The Step 16. Cut the block as marked using a bottom curve at the front may be rounded off by drawknife or a band saw, leaving the line show- making angular cuts with a crosscut saw and ing on the block. Finish to it with a plane or a then finishing with a wood file, or the whole disk sander. Or the surplus material may be re- – operation may be done with a disk sander. moved from the block by making a number of Figure 33 shows the block shaped to profile. saw cuts nearly to the line with a crosscut saw, Step 14. To mark out the top of the block draw a center line and then place the straight and then chiseling close to it, and finishing it with a plane or a disk sander (Fig. 36). 26 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS Fig. 34. Top-view template applied to block Fig. 17. Screw a small piece of scrap ma- center line and parallel to it draw keel lines, as terial to the center line of the top surface of the shown in Figures 38 and 39. The space between block, so that the block may be held securely ina __ the keel lines is left flat so that the keel may be vise by holding it by this projection (Fig. 37). attached to it later. Step 18. On the bottom of the block draw a Fig. 35B. Station lines drawn on top of block Fig. 36. Parallel saw cuts assist in removing surplus material CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE Fig. 37. 27 Shaping round-bottom hull Shaping the Hull Step 19. V-Bottom Models. Place the bot- Step 19. Round-Bottom Models. On the tom template on the center line just drawn on side of the block draw lines joining those pre- the bottom of the block. See that the back end viously drawn crosswise on the top of the block of the template is even with the back end of the (Fig. 40). These lines indicate where the cross- block and draw one side of the bottom curve. section templates are to be fitted. They should Turn the template over and repeat for the other be replaced whenever they are removed with the side. With the aid of a drawknife and spoke- material until the shaping is completed. Figure shave, shape the sides of the block by removing 39 shows the application of a station template. the material between the deck line and the The material is removed between the keel lines bottom curve (Fig. 38). This is called “shaping and the deck line, leaving a flat surface on the the topsides,”’ as all this surface above the chine bottom between the keel lines. will become ‘the sides of the boat. Cross Section Bo a — Keel Lines BLOCK BOTTOM UP SHOWING BOTTOM TEMPLATE CURVE. Remove the Deck A ao . T wi | | \ 1 Stock between |; and Bottom 4, 7 i l | Curve. \ \ Deck be Cross Fig. 38. Section V-bottom ready for shaping Line. Station /. LFINOAPY XN N Ze nt FI. , ts 8). gS y ] 29 CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE [7 Station Template. Fig. 39. Application of station template to round-bottom boat Step 20. Locate the chine by measuring down on the side of the block at each of the transverse lines previously drawn on the top of the block (Step 15), using the dimensions given in the cross sections of Plate VII. Tack a thin batten along these points and draw the chine line (Fig. 41). Step 20. Remove most of the material with a drawknife and a plane. The shaping of the bottom may start anywhere, but working from the middle toward either end seems to be a most satisfactory plan (Figs. 37 and 39). The shaping should be done very carefully and the templates applied very frequently, especially when finishing off. Fig. 40. Locate stations on the side of the block in order to fit cross-section templates for round bottom BLOCK and with TOP SIDES SHAPED CHINE MARKED < NS Remove Stock between Chine and Keel Lines. CROSS Fig. 41. \- SECTION rm = ‘Keel Lines STATION 2. V-bottom marked for shaping or plane, remove the material between the chine and the keel line (Fig. 41). The shaping forward Step 21. Shape the forward part of the hull with a file or a spokeshave, or both, if the curve proves to be too short for a plane to be used must be done with a spokeshave or a file as the satisfactorily. Step 21. With the aid of a drawknife, chisel, curve is rather short for a plane. CaOi ne —|aPUT‘1/04 wr P|OgLSwJApie!W> | eZ|-aL =oin|Vas: [8puwg7doy1NKJOIMBLeW a |~ ~~ rod \ a | = 8 = Kt 7 SaUyO, \ 2‘y7ore5T4 TOI NJIGVS AU} haMypsnmogiH 31 CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE Step 22. Remove the temporary block from the top and with a plane shape the aft part of the deck line which is narrower at the top than at the bottom. See the cross section at station 5 on Plates VII and VIII. _ Step 23. Draw a line around the top to indicate the thickness of the hull shell (Plates VII and VIII). The Keel Step 27. Lay out the keel so it will fit the boat as shown in Plates VII or VIII. The keel is attached to the hull with casein glue. One-half inch brads are used in front and 1-in. brads at the rear end to hold it in place. The brads at the rear should be removed when the glue is thoroughly dry, so they will not interfere with the boring of the propeller shaft hole. Check the keel to see that it is perfectly straight before allowing the glue to dry. Decks and Deck Beams Shape and install the deck beams » as shown in Plates VII or VIII. The ends are cut at an angle so the notching for them in the hull Step 28. a) \ Boar Clamped fo 7op of Bench for Hollowing out Ins1ae. may be done with an ordinary backsaw. They should be 1/16 in. higher in the center than at the sides, so that the deck will be crowned slightly. Figures 44A and 44B show the boats with the deck beams in place. ! Fig. 42 Step 24. Clamp the job to the bench top as shown in Figure 42. Step 25. To hollow the inside, drill a series of holes on the center line (Fig. 43). A depth gauge should be used to prevent drilling too deep. After 12-in. holes have been bored, remove the rest of the material from the inside with a 34-in. gouge or a chisel. Care must be taken to see that the hull shell will be the uniform thickness shown on the drawing, Plates VII and VIII. The thickness should be checked frequently with outside calipers. It is well to bear in mind that more material can always be taken off but it is difficult to put any back. After the hollowing has been completed, finish the inside with No. % sandpaper. Step 26. Round off the aft end according to the drawings, Plates VII or VIII. To do this, use a turning saw or take angular cuts with a cross- cut saw and finish with a wood file and sandpaper. A band saw may be used and the finishing done with a disk sander. Fig. 43. Holes bored on center line aid in hollowing out inside Step 29. The deck should be made of %-in. material and the piece chosen should be somewhat larger than the boat. If the deck is to have a natural finish it is desirable to use walnut or mahogany, or some other hardwood. Place the boat upside down on the deck material and mark all the way around (Fig. 45). Then cut the piece 32 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS some 3/16 in. outside of the mark. Finish to sections of the various drawings. For either of within 1 in. of it, rounding the edges all around these two boats use stations 2 and 4 (Plate VII except at the front where the overhang gradually or VIII). The aft cradle block must have a notch disappears to fair in with the front of the boat. cut for the shaft. The blocks should be padded Fig. 44A. Fig. 44B. V-bottom hull ready for paint Round-bottom hull ready for paint This overhang simulates the guards found on with felt to protect the paint on the boat. For full-sized boats. Cut the deck opening according aid in applying the finish refer to the paragraphs to the drawings. To do so, bore a hole in each entitled “Varnish” in Chapter II. corner and use a coping saw to complete the Finishing the Hull operation. The Stand Step 31. Carefully sand the entire hull with 3/0 sandpaper and then with 5/0, always using It is advisable to make the stand a sand block for this job and being especially for the boat before the final paint is applied to careful when sanding the topsides near the top the outside, as more or less fitting must be done edge, as this edge must be sharp where it joins and the underwater paint is likely to be marred. the deck. Step 30. The stand should be neat and well made to show Step 32. The hull is now ready for paint. off the boat to the best advantage. Some kind The section entitled “Paint” in Chapter IT de- of hardwood that will take a good natural finish scribes is considered good taste. The stand must hold should be followed rather carefully. the model in its natural floating position; that its Step 33. application, and the suggestions Give the underside as well as the is, the water line given on the drawing, when topsides of the deck piece three coats of varnish. transferred to the boat should be parallel to the The section entitled “Varnish” in Chapter II base of the stand. The cradle blocks which sup- tells also of the preliminary staining and filling port the boat on the stand, should be placed process. If the appearance of planking is desired, about one fourth of the length of the boat from the lines should be drawn at this time. See ‘“‘Sim- each end. They should be shaped according to ulated Planking” in Chapter II. the outside of the hull at the points where they fit. This shape may be determined from the cross Step 34. When the deck is fastened to the hull with casein glue, the top edge of the hull CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE Fig. 45. 33 Marking the deck piece and a ‘4-in. border on the underside of the deck should be free from paint or varnish. A rack such as is shown in Figure 46 should be made, Fig. 46. A boat in a rack for gluing with all of the wedges in position together with 20 wedges which conform to angle of the deck beams, and also two or three larger wedges to hold the bottom_of the boat. Smear glue on the contact surfaces and apply the wedges as shown in Figure 46. Step 35. At this stage of construction the motor and the rudder tube should be installed. Chapter V describes various types of motors and their installation. Fig. 48. Beveling cabin sides tube making them more water-tight. The section entitled “Underwater Body” in Chapter II describes in detail the method of determining the actual water line. Fig. 47. First step in assembling cabin Step 36. After the motor has been completely installed apply the underwater paint. This will help to seal the shaft and the rudder The Cabins The cabins shown on all the models in this book are very easy to build. The process is very similar to that in making a box. To illustrate the construction steps the cabin of the Eighteen- Inch Cabin Cruiser (Fig. 53A, Chap. IV) is MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 34 used. Cabins on model boats may be painted or finished in the natural wood color, which is the usual finish on cabins of most pleasure boats. When they are to-be varnished the cabins should be made of hardwood. Cabins on commercial boats are generally painted. Step 37. Lay out one side piece from the drawings. Step 38. Tack the two pieces for the sides together and cut out with a coping saw. Cut the windows first. To do this, bore a hole in each hold them in position while the sides are being fastened on (Fig. 47). Step 42. Fasten the cabin sides to the cabin » ends with %4-in. No. 20 brads which should be countersunk. Step 43. Fasten in the front end rail also with !4-in. No. 20 brads. It is advisable to drill a small hole for each of the end-rail brads as the material might otherwise split. corner and use a coping saw. Step 39. Finish all the edges with a knife and a file. Step 40. Shape the cabin ends and the end be made of a little heavier rails. These should’ (about 5/32 in. or 3/16 in. sides the than stock Fig. 50. Interior view of completed cabin Step 44. At this stage place the structure in its position on the boat and mark exactly where the aft rail is to go. Remove, and fasten the end rail in place. Step 45. To bevel the sides fasten the struc- ture in a clamp which in turn is held in a vise (Fig. 48). Now, with the use of a plane, bevel the cabin sides to fair in with the rounded tops of the cabin ends. Fig. 49, Gluing on cabin top it will be hard to nail in thickness) otherwise the sides to them without splitting or having the nails come through. The cabin ends and the end rails must be fitted to their respective places in the deck opening. For this reason, no dimensions are given for their length. The cabin tops are rounded somewhat, the amount being shown on the various drawings. A disk sander, if one is _available, is an excellent device for rounding the tops of the cabin end pieces. Step 41. To assemble the cabin cut a tem- porary block the length that the cabin ends are to be set apart and tack the ends to it. This will Step 46. Place the structure back on the boat and glue on the cabin top. It is very important to have the cabin in position on the boat when this gluing is done as otherwise it may not fit the boat. The top piece should be oversize and trimmed off after it has been fastened on. If a good brand of casein glue is used and then several coats of finish applied, no nails will be needed to fasten the top to the cabin. In order to hold the top in contact with the sides during the gluing process, make a sort of rack upon which 10 or 12 pounds of weight may be placed _ (Fig. 49). Step 47. Trim off the cabin top to the proper size and apply the finish. Instructions for finishing are given in Chapter II. Figure 50 shows the completed cabin ready for the finish. Chapter IV POWER BOAT MODELS A Sixteen-Inch Speed Boat Figure 52 shows a model of a small modern boat of the runabout type. It is also very at- The hull is a V-bottom type shaped from a solid block of wood. It is used to illustrate the tractive construction steps for V-bottoms in Chapter ITI. made of hardwood and finished a_ . Fig. 52. A sixteen-inch V-bottom speed boat ~~ Fig. 53A. natural wood color with varnish An eighteen-inch round-bottom day cruiser instead of paint. A small-sized spring motor such as is described in Chapter V makes an excellent source of power. The line drawings and all the detail drawings are also to be found in that chapter. The construction steps should be followed just as they are given there. Be) 36 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS Fig. 53B. An eighteen-inch round-bottom runabout ‘An Eighteen-Inch Cabin Cruiser Figure 53A shows an eighteen-inch model ofa popular variety of modern pleasure power boat. By omitting the cabin structure it is converted into a typical runabout (Fig. 53B). It is also correct to paint it white cr some dark color. Soft wood may then be used instead of the hardwood required for a varnished model. The small spring motor described in Chapter V makes a very satis- factory power plant. The hull is shaped from a solid block. It is used to illustrate the methods of construction of round-bottom models in Chapter III, and the line drawings and the detail drawings are to be found there also. Follow the directions just as they are given. A Twenty-Inch Tugboat This little tug (Fig. 54) is typical of an allround towboat which may be seen in almost any harbor. Tugs are used to tow various things, such The Hull is of the round-bottom type and is shaped from a solid block. The steps in its construction are identical with those of the round- Fig. 54. A twenty-inch tugboat as barges, scows, pile drivers, and logs, as well as other vessels of such size that find it difficult to maneuver in narrow channels. bottom eighteen-inch boat described in Chapter III. Use the tugboat drawings, Plate XI, for the necessary information as to dimensions, and _!| ISacz4h=3sly|dt Ta oe a mabs I hs we » 7 i Ld T F e s SNP~7 \ISNHLOdISA ‘ sh #to\_.is| gBRbyANz &2J»L;#Blea=Ssoti|!ch‘BZy2x807e14 |WIyT—]_ROYFAetS4H0£u:ymog-Fe—baspiP4OytnlzslowedTNa|e“\—-yn7gA9SPYW“He /X THEI in 7 ec: dl* be Borne ed MoO {S0q IJINIDNA WO0 OHY b |Ll “a afinAes7 ZTeIN,H q [IXd 38 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS Fig. 55. Twenty-inch tugboat with motor installed ing. In case the motor shaft interferes with it, cut a slot in the tow post so it will fit over the shaft. The Cabins are made in two parts — the pilot house and the engine room. They are best made of plywood as the structure has so much material cut away. Since they are to be painted, softwood is suitable. Mark the various pieces as shown in Notched Block and Wedge Hold Cabin Sides to End a Material Holds Fig. 56. Assembling pilot house Proper Sides GLUING follow the steps just as they are given in Chapter Fig. 57. in SIDES Thickness Position TO ENDS. Assembling engine hatch III, Steps 1 to 33. The Motor should be installed before the deck the drawing, Plate XI. To cut the windows, drill is fastened down as the deck opening is compara- a small hole inside the line at each corner and tively remove the waste stock with a coping saw. small on this model. The small-sized spring motor is suitable for this boat. Read Smooth all edges witha file. Chapter V for information concerning the instal- The cabins are assembled by fastening the lation of the motor. Figure 55 shows the tugboat sides to the ends with waterproof glue. Figure with the motor installed. Attach the deck as de- 56 shows a method of assembling the pilot house. scribed in Step 34, Chapter ITI. A block of scrap material is held in a vise and The Tow Post is shaped as shown in the draw- one of the pilot-house sides is clamped to the POWER BOAT MODELS 39 block. Small clamps are used to hold the ends to painted inside and out to protect them from the sides. The engine room is assembled as moisture. Final Paint. Chapter II gives suggestions for determining the actual water line and applying the underwater paint. The Stack may be either round or elliptical in shape. Small tin cans of a suitable size and shape may usually be found. It may be painted a variety of colors: black, white, gray, yellow, etc., or Fig. 58. a combination of two of them may be used. The stack is slipped over a wooden lug which has Pilot house and engine hatch before attaching top been carefully shaped to fit into the stack and then fastened onto the engine-room top. Ventilators, side lights, and other fixtures may shown in Figure 57. Figure 58 shows the cabins ready for the top. Both structures should be well be added as desired. An Eighteen-Inch Scow The model shown in Figure 59 is a typical cargo scow which is common on waterfronts curve of the ends according to Figure 60. Cut as marked, as shown in Figure 61. To each side of this center block glue the everywhere. It is designed to go with the Twenty- An eighteen-inch cargo scow BS a Fig. 59. Me t 18″ CARGO SCOW Fig. 60 Inch Tug. Scows are sometimes decked over and 3/16-in. slats and trim the ends off to fair in sometimes left open, so this one may be treated with the center piece. either way. Secure a piece of material 2 by 6 by 18 in. and 2 slats 3/16 by 2 by 18 in. On both sides of the block mark the rounded Paint the hull inside and out and attach the deck if one is desired. Small screw eyes are placed at each end to which the tow line may be attached. 40 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS Fig. 61. Center block of cargo scow A Twenty-Four-Inch Express. Cruiser XII. Follow the instructions given for the construction of V-bottom models as outlined in This craft (Fig. 62) is a model of a speedy variety of day cruisers. It has an open bridge aft of the cabin where the steering wheel and controls are placed on the full-sized boats. The drawings, Plate XII, show both an open and a covered Steps 1 to 36, inclusive. The model may be powered with a large-sized spring motor or an electric motor. oe Fig. 62. A twenty-four-inch V-bottom express cruiser cockpit forward. Both are popular on pleasure boats of this type, and look well on the model. The hull is shaped from a solid block and the procedure is identical with that described in Chapter III. Secure a piece of material 312 by _ 6 by 24 in., and use the dimensions given in Plate The cabin for this model is constructed exactly like the cabin of the round-bottom model of Chapter III. Refer to Plate XII for dimensions and then follow Steps 37 to 47, inclusive, just as they are given. ee ee ee, Pee Cw aa SS Z TOP -|V. 4 Ase oa | ‘hy i “og N < “Ie alee Te : — e—_— — ae v we CROSS SECTIONS. oe eee : y ny N vr ‘ig Ny ; oe St ROE Es cr BOT OM . TEMPLATE. ss a t Pee SS: bee ee DecK : Support Block Deck z in Cobin Sidi aN 5a eiaN Reston “ Beam. : es o7F D cae : CRO. of H. NOTE:- Cabin Ends End Rail and Wind Shield Must be Fitted to Deck 24°'-BOTTOM By Claude W Horst Opening. EXPRESS. 2. ae cle, Jer | eo | 13 ~F | fe i) ! Plate XII 1 ees Ret 2 ———— EIGEN is teleseeie |a § INS S orale ae ~ : w a N fe v a : \ i \ V- ghee 2s —4" TEMPLATE. SA SA ry Edge \ Block: A) i =Cabin Ends er get SECTION. Ea 5" eo ce$s sate a Fig. 87. Fig. 85. Anchor Fig. 86. Bollard and size they add a great deal to the appearance of the model. Practically all of the fixtures listed can be made at home, and all of them may be purchased from any model-boat supply house. Chock Fig. 88. Cleat. of this type about 34 in. long is suitable for any model in the book. Bollards (Fig. 86). Bollards are used for fastening lines when mooring large boats to docks, etc. For the 30-in. Yacht described in Chapter VII, the bollards should not be larger than 1% by Y in. MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 54 Chocks (Fig. 87). Chocks are used on all types of boats to keep mooring lines in a definite position. They are placed at the bow and at the stern. Chocks % in. in length are correct for all couplings on the market that may be obtained at a small cost. boats in this book. Fig. 92. Fig. 89. A simple coupling of brass tubing. Fig. 90. A flexible hose coupling Davits. Davit Davits are used for lowering life boats over the side of a ship. They may be made Cleats (Fig. 88). Cleats are used on prac- tically all boats to some extent, but most com- of an ordinary piece of wire bent as shown in Figure 92, or they may be purchased. monly on small boats where they take the place of bollards for mooring the boat. Cleats about Y in. long are suitable for all the boats given RATLEAAO TATA EAA TRUANUOUUOOUOLONTA in the book except the Tramp Steamer in Chap- TTT ter IV, from which they should be omitted. Couplings (Figs. 89 and 90). TTUOVOAUUAUEEUGOAOAG AVOUT AGREE AHA If possible, a TVUIUAVUTUNATATAAAAMSU ATE flexible coupling should be used for model work TT TTT as there is almost certain to be some discrepancy TUUUUAVATOUANOVAAAAA TUATHA in alignment between the motor and the propel- Fig. 93. ler shaft, which, with a nonflexible coupling, results in the loss of power and excessive wear on parts of the driving unit. Such a coupling may be Flags. Yacht ensign A yacht ensign should be chosen if a flag is desired on any of the models of small pleasure boats (Fig. 93). It should be placed at ies =| a 60-degree angle at the aft end. A Union Jack may also be used on the 30-in. Yacht in Chapter Fig. 91. A crank-arm universal joint VII. It should be placed on a very low staff at the IL 2 made by cutting a piece of brass tubing about 4 in. long for a small motor and 3% in. for a Fig. 94. larger one. Small holes are drilled through the Flagpole socket coupling and the shafts and loose-fitting pins used to hold them together. A piece of tire-pump hose about an inch long bow and parallel to the mast. It has 13 white stars in a blue field. may also be used as a flexible coupling. Hose Flagpole Sockets are really not needed on clips are used to hold the assembly together, or any of the models in this book as a hole in the pins may be thrust through small holes in the deck does the trick just as well. hose and the shafts. A crank-arm universal joint (Fig. 91) is also ” san efficient coupling. There are a number of good They do, how- ever, add somewhat to the appearance of the model and may be purchased if they are desired (Fig. 94). POWER PLANTS AND FIXTURES Gooseneck (Fig. 95). 55 A gooseneck is a sort Whenever they are used in the book the diameter of universal joint used on sailing boats to attach is given on the drawing. They may be brass rings the boom to the mast. A very simple and effi- sawed from brass pipe and fitted into the round cient one may be made simply by putting a screw holes drilled in the hull, or they may be painted Fig. 95. Goosenecks Fig. 97. Mooring bit eye into the mast end of the boom and then using a staple to attach the boom to the mast on the hull with the aid of a mechanical-drawing through the screw eye. pen and black paint. Port lights in a great va- Handrail (Fig. 62, Chap. IV). Handrails are attached to trunk cabins of small boats and riety of sizes with glass windows may be pur- chased for a small sum. Propeller (Fig. 99). Propellers usually come with the power plant purchased. They may also Fig. 96. Life ring Fig. 98. are used to hang on to while walking along the Port light Fig. 99. Propeller be made of sheet metal as suggested on page deck around the cabin. They are sometimes 13. If a cast propeller is desired it is advisable made of wood and sometimes of metal. to purchase it as it must be accurately cast to be Life Rings (Fig. 96). Life rings are lifesaving well balanced. When a propeller is to be pur- devices to be thrown to persons in the water chased for some definite motor, the rotation of needing help. The actual size is about 3 ft. in the motor must be specified, and also the diam- diameter, and they should therefore be scaled eter and the pitch of the propeller. A propeller according to the size of the model. Mooring Bits (Fig. 97). Mooring 2 in. in diameter should usually have a 5- or 6-in. are pitch. There is little difference in efficiency be- often used on small boats in place of cleats. Bits about % in. high will be suitable for all the propeller is used the diameter must be somewhat bits models in the book except the Tramp Steamer and the 30-in. Yacht. Port Lights (Fig. 98). tween a 2- or 3-blade propeller, but if a 3-blade smaller in relation to the pitch. For example, a 2-blade propeller 2 in. in diameter is comparable Port lights are round windows used on both large and small boats. to a 3-blade propeller 134 in. in diameter. Rudder. The dimensions for the rudder of j MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 56 each model are given in the drawings for that model. Rudders may either be made of sheet metal or be cast of aluminum. They should be stream-lined to get the model to run straight. Figure 84 shows a sheet-metal rudder made by bending sheet metal around a )-in. rod of brass or some other noncorrosive metal. It will be noticed that the sheet metal is not forced closely around the rod but is merely bent sharply at the Head Port Fig. 100. Starboard Running lights front edge and then brought together at the back and soldered to the rod. A rudder made in this way will not cavitate and will hold the boat on a straight course. Running Lights (Fig. 100). All power boats carry running lights. Those required by law are: a white bow light, which is placed well forward; two side lights, a red one on the left side, called the port light, and a green one on the right side, be purchased for a small sum. The side lights for all the models except the Tramp Steamer and the 30-in. Yacht should be about 1% in. high. For those models the lights should be not over 3/16 in. high. Searchlight (Figure 101). Searchlights may be placed on all models having a cabin. A light Fig. 102. A strut made of sheet metal Fig. 103. A streamlined cast strut about 3% in. in diameter is correct for all the models except the Tramp Steamer whose searchlight should not be over % in. in diameter. Stack. A smokestack for the Tramp Steamer and the 30-in. Yacht may be made of small ovalshaped tin cans or of wood and painted appropriately. Struts (Figs. 102 and 103). Whenever struts ———— Fig. 104. Fig. 101. Searchlight called the starboard light, and a white light placed some distance above the deck at the aft end. Large ocean and lake vessels have also what are called “range lights” so placed that they tell the direction at which the vessel is approaching. One light is about halfway up on the front mast and the second light is placed on the aft mast head. When these are directly in a line one above the other it indicates that the vessel is coming straight on. For models these lights may all be made of wood and painted the proper color, or they may Traveler are desired they may be made of sheet brass bent around a rod which is the size of the shaft to be used. If a cast strut is desired, a small wood pattern exactly the size and shape of the strut must be made. Brass-should be used for the casting. Travelers (Fig. 104). The travelers shown on the sailboats in Chapter VI are made of brass wire 3/32 in. in diameter bent in a vise. The ends are sharpened and driven into holes drilled in the deck and through into the hull proper. Turnbuckles (Fig. 105). If desired, turn- buckles may be used on the sailboats in Chapter VI instead of toggles. They are really much better. Ventilators (Figs. 106 and 107). The ventilators shown on the Tramp Steamer and the POWER PLANTS AND FIXTURES 30-in. Yacht are 1 in. high with a 3¢-in. cowl. They may be made of wood and painted or pur- 57 shields may be used on the small boats if desired. They must be kept small however if they are to chased for a few cents. The clamshell ventilator shown in Figure 107 is used on runabouts. They Fig. 105. Turnbuckles Fig. 106. Cowl ventilator Fig. 107. Clamshell ventilator may be purchased or whittled out of wood and painted with gilt or aluminum paint. Windshields (Fig. 62, Chap. IV). look well. They may be made of wood and cellu- Wind- loid, or purchased for a small sum. Chapter VI SAILING BOATS An Eighteen-Inch Catboat Figure 110 shows a model of a Cape-Cod VBottom Catboat. A cat rig is distinguished by having only one sail and the mast near the bow. The boats are fast and very steady. Steps 1 to 18, inclusive. Examine the drawing, Plate XVI, and secure template material of the proper sizes. Follow the directions just as they are given in Chapter III, using always the dimensions given in Plate XVI. Step 19. Omit. Steps 20 and 21. Follow the directions for the V-bottom model just as they are given. Step 22. Remove the temporary block from the top surface but do not shape the top. Steps 23, 24, and 25. To hollow out the inside, follow the directions just as they are given. The hull, completely shaped and ready for the fin, is shown in Figure 111. Step 26. Cut and shape the fin of hardwood according to the dimensions given in Plate XVI. Step 27. The fin is fastened to the hull by being glued into a slot cut between the keel lines. It is made by drilling a series of small holes along the center line and removing the surplus stock with a %-in. chisel, or by making a saw cut just on the inside of each keel line and removing the stock between the cuts with the chisel. The fin must fit very snugly into this groove, and it is well to cut it a bit smaller at first and then enlarge it or plane down the fin a bit. Casein or other waterproof glue is used to fasten the fin in” place. Fig. 110. An eighteen-inch catboat The Hull. The construction steps for the hull are almost identical with those given in Chapter III for V-bottom power boat models. Step 28. Shape and fit the deck beam according to the dimensions given in Plate XVI. Refer to Step 28, Chapter II, for details of the process. Step 29. Shape the deck piece, following the directions just as they are given. 58 Id TAX YIOLS , x, ] _ —e 4 ‘oul YW2eG We | 3 mab| stP297*|4— CE. Halyard. Rubber Band. Stays Bred. Gooseneck. Toggle gXBX I J hi Fig. 112. Mast a Sin pe Rigging details for the eighteen-inch catboat MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 62 Step 44. The sail may be laced to the mast and the boom as shown in Figure 112, using about No. 10 sewing thread. Step 45. The lower end of the halyard is tied to a rubber band which in turn is slipped over a \4-in. No. 18 brad located on the mast just above the deck. The band should be stretched to some extent so that there will be a permanent tension on the halyard. Step 46. The traveler may be made of ordinary No. 12 wire bent and fastened to the hull us shown in Figure 112. weighing 14 pound each. To make the mold, shape a 34-in. block of wood to fit around the top view of the lead as shown in Plate XVI. Fasten thin slats to each side of this block as shown in the suggested lead mold of Plate XVII and pour in exactly 14 pound of melted lead. Step 48. Place the model in a tub of water with the two lead pieces lying on the deck. Shift them until the boat balances properly in a fore and aft position. Mark the place and fasten the lead pieces to the fin in a straight line below the mark. Use short screws for the fastenings (Plate XVI). Ballast Step 47. The model requires about Y4 pound Step 49. Apply two coats of the underwater paint to these lead pieces. of lead as ballast. It is attached in two pieces A Twenty-Five-Inch Sloop This model is patterned after the racing sloops and is a fast design. It is equipped with a sliding mast plate which makes it possible to move the whole sail combination forward or aft as required to secure a perfect sailing balance. With this feature no rudder is necessary. The hull is shaped from a solid block and the procedure is identical with that of shaping the round-bottom model in Chapter III. Follow the instructions as they are given there, but secure the dimensions from Plate XVII. Make templates Steps 1 to 11, inclusive. for the top view, the profile, and the stations. Steps 12 to 25, inclusive. Secure a block 2 by 5 by 25 in. and shape it as directed in Chapter III. Step 26. Shape the fin of hardwood accord- ing to the drawing, Plate XVII. Fig. 113. Twenty-five-inch sloop Step 27. The fin is placed in a groove or slot cut in the bottom and is firmly fastened with glue. Mark the bottom of the hull as shown in the drawing. Drill a series of small holes along the center line and remove the surplus stock with a 1-in. chisel. Or the slot may be made by making a saw cut the right length just on the inside PA PRAwwww00 SS S S SSS SS SS SECTIONS. Make Templates for Stetion Curves LEAD . Plate XVI |\ wAi|oQsrLakg2e: 9QeS, 63 SAILING BOATS casein or other waterproof glue to fasten the fin 34-in. block of wood to fit around the top view of the lead as shown in Plate XVII. Fasten thin slats to each side of this block as shown in the suggested lead mold of the drawing and pour in into the slot. Figure 114 shows the hull shaped exactly 14 pound of melted lead. of each line and removing the waste stock with a chisel. The fin should be fitted very frequently to see that too much stock is not removed. Use Step 35. and the fin attached. Fig. 114. Step 28. To determine exactly where to at- Completely shaped hull Shape and attach the deck beam as tach the lead to the hull to give the proper lateral balance or trim, place the model in the water described in Step 28, Chapter III. Shape the deck piece as directed with the two pieces of lead on the deck. Shift but finish it even with the outside of the hull as the pieces until the boat trims, mark their posi- is customary in this type of sailing boat. The tion on the side of the hull. Project this point to mast support block, shaped to conform to the the fin and attach the lead with small brass Step 29. top curve of the deck beam should now be fas- screws or bolts, one piece on each side of the fin tened to the underside of the deck piece as and even with the bottom of the fin. If screws shown in Figure 115. Screws and casein glue are used stagger the holes as they go nearly serve as the fastenings. through the fin. Countersink the heads of either Step 30. Give both sides of the deck piece three coats of varnish as directed under ‘“Varnish” in Chapter II. Step 31. Carefully sand the outside of the screws or bolts and fill the holes with putty. Step 36. Spars. The mast, boom, and bow- sprit are best made of spruce. The dimensions for shaping them are shown in Figure 115. hull with fine sandpaper and apply paint and en- Step 37. To construct the gooseneck see Step amel inside and out as described in ‘Chapter IT 38, p. 60, in making the eighteen-inch catboat. Step 38. under “Paint.” Make stay blocks of 4% by % by Attach the deck to the hull with 34- 14 in. material and shape them as shown in in. No. 20 brads treating the heads as described Figure 115. Fasten the stay blocks to the mast under ‘‘Nail Heads” in Chapter II. The appear- with waterproof glue and ‘%4-in. No. 20 brads. Step 32. ance of planking may be secured by following Step 39. Cleats are made of % by 3/16 by the directions given under “Simulated Planking”’ ¥4-in. stock, shaped as shown in the drawing and in the same chapter (see Chap. III). fastened to the mast with glue and 1%-in. No. 20 Step 33. The stand is an important adjunct to a model boat. Step 30, Chapter III gives direc- Step 40. Make toggles % in. square and about 1 in. long or purchase turnbuckles. tions for its construction. Step 34. Ballast. The brads. model requires 4 Step 41. The sliding mast plate is made as pound of lead as ballast. It is modeled in two shown in the drawing, Figure 115. It is attached pieces each weighing ‘4 pound and attached to to the deck over the mast-support block, with either side of the fin. To make the mold, shape a 3%-in. No. 4 screws. MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 64 Step 42. The sails are made of some sort of muslin, such as longcloth. The material should be shrunk before it is cut. Wet it thoroughly and press it with a hot iron. Be sure that the proper side of the sail is laid parallel to the lengthwise and the boom with small-sized fishline. Use fishline also for the halyards and the stays. Step 44. The traveler may be made of ordinary No. 12 wire bent and fastened to the hull as shown in Figure 115. It is best to drill tiny thread of the material as shown in the drawing. holes in the deck first. Step 43. The mainsail is laced to the mast Sailing Kinks on the hull should move the hull through the Sailing is like many other things — it can best water sidewise in a straight line. be learned by experience, since different models On boat drawings, the location of the center of effort is indicated by a circle and a cross and is labeled C.E. The fore and aft location of the center of lateral resistance is usually indicated have their own peculiar characteristics which must be studied. However, there are certain principles of sailing, a knowledge of which will be of considerable assistance. Direction Fig. 116. Sail combination too far forward of Wind Fig. 117. Sail combination too far aft Fig. 118. Sail combination properly placed The sail combination of any boat has a point called the center of effort, which is its balancing point, so to speak. The center of effort of a single sail may be found by making a template of the sail and experimenting with it on a pin until the by a small mark near the water line labeled point is found at which the template will balance with different boats but the average distance is about 5 per cent of the water-line length of the perfectly. * GE C.E. CE. ak. In order that a boat may sail properly, the center of effort must be slightly forward of the center of lateral resistance. This distance varies Related to the center of effort of the sails is hull. Figure 118 shows a boat with proper bal- the center of lateral resistance, or point of per- ance. Figure 116 shows the sail combination too fect balance, of the underwater body of the hull. far forward, which causes the boat to head away This point may be found by experimenting with from the wind. Figure 117 shows the sail combination too far aft, which causes the boat to head a template of it on a pin. Pressure at this point a oe IN Hole for Halyard. L-Ste 7 Brock s. Gooseneck ftast NMainsatl. a Deta//s. Trayeller Fee it ce ter NESE BiTreve Ja so Pa Block Fastened A Sateu Lye. —4 to ig Side Bies ba ~ Fig. 115. ee f Ce Beemt Mast Support A F i * eS ge eee enters ey a eS sae SIest P/a@i -~ Details of spars, deck, Jind us . s us ies Boor. 4¢ BS | – —s « =4ols sage Plate Deck / Pilate. “ 4 ie Bowsprit. r) & Sliding Mast Ss) + Pipe Threaded gue Welded To Sliding Step in Position, at Step. Made of 22 Gavge Metal yD Mainsa/!. Nol2 Wire. a Traveller Lriven inte Holl. Toggle £xd x] i B5e we prita, = rew pe a a p 1!x aS Serew ging, and sails en Lye. Fiate. Net te hold BS Eyes. SAILING BOATS 65 into the wind. These are the two most common 1. Making a larger jib. difficulties. A boat with either of these two faults 2. Making a smaller mainsail. is by no means hopeless, as there are a number of 3. Making a larger rudder. things that may be done to correct the poor sail- ing. 4. Cutting away material from the forward part of the fin. When the sail combination of a catboat is too far forward so that the wind blows the bow 5. Putting on a new fin which will extend farther aft. around and the boat heads away from the wind it may be corrected by: 1. Moving the sail aft. 2. Making a different shaped sail, lengthening the boom and shortening the mast so the sail will project farther aft. 3. Decreasing the size of the rudder, if the boat has one. = Ze. 5/00, = a. Ketch 4. Putting on a new fin which will extend farther forward, experimenting with shortening it until the boat sails properly. When the sail combination of a sloop is too far forward it may be corrected by: 1. Moving the sail combination aft. 2. Making a smaller jib. 3. Making a larger mainsail. 4. Making the rudder smaller, if the boat has one. Yaw / Fig. 119. Schooner Popular sail combinations modern sailing crafts for 5. Cutting away material from the aft end of the fin. The use of a sliding mast plate in any type of When the sail combination of a catboat is too sailboat makes it possible to shift the whole sail far aft so that the wind blows the aft end around combination without the use of any tools and in and the boat heads into the wind, it may be cor- a very short order difficulties resulting from a rected by: . lack of lateral balance may be corrected. The 1. Moving the sail combination forward. device usually well repays the effort put forth in 2. Making a larger rudder. its construction. 3. Cutting away the forward part of the fin. When the sail combination of a sloop is too far aft the condition may be corrected by: Figure 119 shows four of the most commonly used sail combinations to be found on presentday pleasure yachts. Chapter VII A THIRTY-INCH MODEL OF A LARGE POWER YACHT Figure 122 shows a large cruising yacht of modern design. A model yacht of this type is a very aristocratic-looking craft as well as being a good performer. It requires some real woodworking skill to build and offers a real challenge to the craftsman. a guide in shaping the outside of the hull, and must therefore be laid out accurately. Templates may be made from thin plywood or firm cardboard. All the lift templates are made in the same manner and the construction of the template for lift 4 serves to illustrate the procedure. Fig. 122. A thirty-inch model of a large cruising yacht The hull is built up of layers called lifts, which A template for only half of the lift need be made are fastened together with waterproof glue. The as the left and right sides are identical. Step 1. Select template material about 4 in. bottom layer, lift 1, is cut from stock 1% in. thick, the next two from 34-in. stock, and lift 4 from wide and 30 in. long, having at least one good stock 134 in. thick (see steps 1 to 6, Chap. HI). working edge. The ends should then be made Before starting the actual construction of the square with edge. Step 2. Place the material with the working model, templates, or patterns, should be made of the top view of each of the four lifts of which edge toward you and lay off the locations of the the hull is constructed. Each of these lifts represent a definitely designed curve which serves as station lines 1 to 7, inclusive, as shown in Plate XX. With the aid of a try square, draw lines 66 eo = – gr JS : Be aaa a i. QI Fae S to Ki y Neo Se ae oe nn isNe Nene oe a | | Inside C “fo = _— LL me “ — | ie . j 2k § 2g \ | « eee yr 16 | : i She ca poe Velie ve a | Se a oi ee PROFILE: — ES Gg and: 30 PLEASURE By llovde W. Horst. —_ — —_ Load Water —_ Soy ee See at .CRDSS ime, SECTIONS. YACHT. —= =f zs ~ Sa, Keel — 2 = Si WN : | LIFT ~ ‘i 4 | 29g : Shire i ey N= LIFT 3 ‘5) 8 |s i ae | [ss ” aa | t | sti = 295 : bh nN eel ein) ee Liloye 2 SARS 297 + HALF -BREADTH |. LIFT \ lier : 4 Make le Templates for all Station “bs TEMPLATES. le Deck finet = ae { Curves:as ee ee | ; \ ie LIF Nip f ~N LI} oa ee Nw fic = SE See Plate XX i Spee bal os ee : 1 ay | i SiMe SR ee; (IE LIT Cy ey i ad ok ee: see aceite: mila 3. ’ THIRTY-INCH MODEL OF A LARGE POWER YACHT 67 through these points as shown in Plate XX, and Turn the template over and draw the other number the station lines from 1 to 7. curve. Step 3. Measure up from the bottom edge on each of these stations the distance given between Fig. 123. responding station in Plate XX and spot the points. Tack a thin batten along these points and draw the curve of lift 4 as shown in Plate XX. Cut out the template leaving the line visible on it. Finish very carefully to the line. The working edge of the template is now the center line of the lift (see Chap. IIT). Step 5. Saw out the lift pieces with a turning Lifts ready to assemble the center line and the outside curve on the cor- Step 4. Step 7. saw or a band saw, cutting on the outside of the The templates for the other lifts are made in the same manner. – For the hull proper the following material is needed: line. Finish very carefully to the line with a plane or a disk sander. ‘ Step 8. The interiors of lifts 2, 3, and 4 may be removed by boring a series of holes inside of the line and then smoothing the surface, or a hole may be bored at each end and a turning saw or a jig saw used. The lifts are marked to be cut much heavier than the hull shell is to be so that they will not spring out of shape during the gluing process. Figure 123 shows the lifts ready for the gluing. Step 9. Arrange the lifts in their proper 1 piece, 1% by 4% by 24 in. order upside down 2 pieces, 34 by 5 by 30 in. Plate XX and check the distance that each lift is placed back of lift 4. Apply glue to all the con- 1 piece, 134 by 5 by 30 in. Step 6. Draw a center line on each piece of lift stock. Place the straight edge of the template on the center line and draw the outside curve. on the bench top. Refer to tact surfaces and then clamp the whole thing to the bench. Check carefully and correct any shifting of the pieces. If necessary use brads to hold a MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 68 the lifts in line with each other. Allow at least 24 hours for the glue to set (Fig. 124). Step 10. Plate XX shows that the deck line is 54 in. lower at the aft end than it is at the Fig. 124. hull leave the space between the keel lines flat as the keel will be attached to it later. Step 15. Cross-section, or station, templates should be made for most of the stations. The Gluing lifts together front. Measure down at the aft end of lift 4, and using a flexible spline mark the deck line. With a number of templates used increases the accuracy possible in shaping the sides of the hull. To con- Step 11. To hold the hull so that the bottom drawings in Plate XX and transfer the curves onto the template material as shown in Chapter III, Steps 1 to 10. Cut on the outside of the line and finish very carefully to it. Step 16. Fit the templates to their respective places and use a plane and a drawknife to remove the surplus material. A spokeshave and a file are useful forward where the curve is too abrupt to use the plane successfully. Try the templates very frequently, especially when finishing off. Smooth the surface with sandpaper. Step 17. Remove the temporary clamp block plane cut down to it. may be shaped,. screw a strip of scrap material lengthwise of the top surface of the hull. This piece may be gripped securely by the vise. (Fig. 66, Chap. IV.) Step 12. On both sides of the hull mark the station lines, to serve as guides in shaping it. Step 13. To shape the bottom according to the profile shown in Plate XX, first mark the thickness of the two lower lifts at the various stations; at station 1, lift 1 is 9/32 in. thick, at station 2 it is 7/16 in., at station 3, % in., etc. . Using a plane, cut away the surplus material. Complete the profile by shaping the front and aft ends. i Step 14. Mark a center line on the bottom of the hull and draw keel lines % in. from it on each side and parallel to it. When shaping the struct station templates refer to the cross-section from the top surface and clamp the hull to the bench top while the inside is being hollowed. Step 18. The hull shell should be about 3/16 or % in. thick throughout. Use a gouge to re- move the surplus material, and then smooth the surface with sandpaper. THIRTY-INCH MODEL OF A LARGE POWER YACHT ee Shape and attach the deck beams outside of the line and finish very carefully to and the deck support blocks as shown in Figures within }% in. of it rounding the edges except in Step 19. the front where the overhang gradually disap- 125 and 126. Step 20. The keel:may be shaped as shown pears to fair in with the front of the boat. This in Plate XX or with an extension as shown in overhang simulates the guards to be found on Figure 125, as boats of this type are constructed full-sized boats. Cut the deck opening as shown either way. The extension makes it a bit harder in Figure 126. Fig. 125. Hull ready for paint to fit the strut. Waterproof glue and brads are Step 25. ree Apply three coats of varnish to used to fasten it to the hull, but care must be both sides of the piece. See the section, ‘‘Var- taken to place the brads so that they will not in- nish,” in Chapter II for a description of the proc- terfere with boring for the shaft later. ess. Lines may be drawn on the deck to re- ‘ Step 21. A stem piece as shown in Figure semble planking as described under “Simulated 125 may be fitted to the front of the boat. It is Planking” in the same chapter. Attach the deck not necessary but does add somewhat to the to the hull with 34-in. No. 20 brads, and treat appearance of the finished model. If it is not the heads as suggested under ‘Nail Heads,” in used it is well to fasten a strip of non-rusting Chapter II. Apply the final coat of varnish. metal to the bow with %4-in. No. 22 brads. Step 26. Construct the bulwark pieces ac- This prevents water from getting in between cording to the drawing, Figure 127A. Figure 128 the lifts in case the paint is chipped off at shows any time. slotted at each end for the rail. After they are Step 22. the pieces ready for paint. They are Give the hull a final careful sanding completely painted and enameled fasten them to with fine paper and apply the paint inside and the hull with 1-in. No. 18 brads. Be careful to out. The section “Paint” in Chapter II gives a drive the brads at an angle that will keep them detailed description of the process. from coming through the hull. Figure 129 shows Step 23. The round windows, or ports, may be painted on the hull, or may be merely circles drawn on with a compass and india ink, or they the hull with the bulwarks in place. Step 27. Astand is an important part of the equipment of a model boat. It should be neat may be brass rings with, or without glass, fitted and well made so it will show the boat off to the into carefully drilled holes. In any case, they best advantage. Some sort of hardwood that will should be properly spaced and be the exact dis- take a good natural finish is considered good tance from the deckline, as shown in the draw- taste. It should hold the boat in its natural float- ing. A pair of dividers properly set may be used ing position, that is, the water line shown on the to spot the port centers. drawing must be parallel to the base of the Tf the deck is to be varnished it stand. The blocks which support the boat, called should be made of some sort of hardwood. Turn Step 24. cradle blocks, should be placed about one fourth the hull upside down on the. deck material and of the length of the boat from each end, and mark all the way around. Cut 3/16 in. on the should be shaped according to the outside of the ThiadBSANa|‘37e“lWLZ”sior.eqjmnpu{1S75ydwAsvyce,6‘ f = d-G =40l9aS l kg ea Mal, ty) m 4 id er 4 4o OlEe ) Et Lp ie | a u ” : Woy: — ; i WJOLIDS |] WolLg2zS SSONT LE p4ajuod Py é aw Z UoIpaS a raea We nie “3AlL71 T H |! | 24/ 2]po‘UlgYdAI | 4gPIOZ ANYS4IOH / MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 72 fy ——PHer Lo A 4 Ne oO = © © 6 © © ee = ; x : ch x . cs x x DECK s Material Side before DECK me—_n– oor Varnish Fastening it on Under with BEAM rTrF ate Deck Beam aXe Material Fig. 126. Profile view and deck details hull at those points. The shape may be obtained by reference to the cross sections of the drawing. The aft cradle block must have a notch cut for opening may easily be enlarged to allow the the shaft. Both blocks should be padded with the same general shape as the deck, but is a little felt to protect the hull. narrower except at the front (Fig. 127B). Place Step 28. The* motor installation may take place at this point in the construction. A large piece to it. Remove the top piece and mark it for spring motor, an electric motor, or a small steam the hatch opening, the size of which will depend cabin to go in. Step 31. The cabin top piece has somewhat the assembled cabin on the hull and fit the top plant may be used. Chapter V gives directions on the motor used. The opening may be cut a for the installation. bit smaller than needed and then enlarged to fit around the cabin sides and ends after the top Step 29. The cabin sides may be marked and cut according to the dimensions given in Figure 127B. The cabin ends and cross members must be fitted to their places in the deck opening. The tops of these pieces are rounded to give them the same curve as the deck beams. ‘ piece has been fastened on. Step 32. Place the structure on the hull and glue the top piece in place. Several 12-in. brads may be used to help. Step 33. Make a hatch cover to fit the open- ing (Figs. 127B and 129). The cross members of Step 30. To assemble the cabin fasten the sides to the ends with %4-in. No. 18 or 20 brads. the hatch should be rounded the same as the The procedure is like that in making a box. It is cabin ends. advisable to make the cabin a trifle longer than the deck opening rather than shorter, as the Step 34. The pilot house may be made of plywood as shown in Figure 127B or it may be THIRTY-INCH MODEL OF A LARGE POWER YACHT made of a solid block. Bore a hole near each Step 37. is The rail between the bulwarks may corner in one end of the block and remove the be a thin wood slat or a piece of sheet metal inside material with a turning saw. Mark and carefully fitted and then painted and enameled cut the windows and smooth all edges with a file. before being attached to the tube supports with Attach the top with metallic glue. metallic glue. The bridge rail may be made of Fig. 128. Step 35. Bulwark pieces ready for paint Give the cabins several coats of sheet metal or by permitting brads to stand the varnish, rubbing down between coats with pum- proper height above the deck as shown in Figure ice stone and oil. 127 and then fastening adhesive tape to them. Step 36. The cabin supports may be made Step 38. Lifeboats and davits may be added of %-in. O.D. (outside diameter) tubing cut the as shown in Figure 122. Lights and various deck proper length. Place the cabin structure on the fittings may also be included, but care must be hull and spot the location for the tubes. Drill taken to be sure that they are small enough to be for the fastenings, and drive 18 in scale. The section on fixtures in. Chapter V brads through the cabin top and the tubes into may prove helpful in choosing and making them. the hull or bulwarks below (Fig. 127B). Fasten guards to the hull with 14-in. No. 20 15¢-in. No. brads. Fig. 129. Completed hull with detached cabin showing motor opening in cabin top Chapter VIII REGATTAS The operation of boat models in competition its course, and testing the power plant, partic- with other builders offers many boys an objec- ularly to see that it will cover the specified dis- tive sufficiently alluring so that any amount of tance. Frequently a number of tryouts are nec- careful workmanship in the construction of the essary to get sailboats ready, especially if a slid- models seems time and energy very well spent indeed. It is a delightful source of pleasure to ing mast plate has not been provided. The tryouts should usually occur well in advance of the the spectators as well. An elaborate organization time set for the competitions, and when the is not necessary for regattas that involve only small groups, but some thoughtful planning will boats have been put in sailing trim, they should be set on their stands and not disturbed until the make the affair run much more smoothly and races. Regattas for power boats when held in tanks bring greater satisfaction to the sponsors and may include many interesting stunts beside just participants alike. The location of the course is a matter of real racing. Some sort of target that will not injure a importance. A small lake, a pond, or a swimming boat hitting it, may be set up, and the boats tank indoors or out, is most desirable for power aimed at it from various distances, or the boat models, as they do best in smooth water where may be run in a circle or a half circle to finish at they are protected from the wind. Sailboats need the target. open water and a good breeze. For this reason Besides determining speed, competition may the two seldom make a good combination at the also be judged for careful workmanship and the same regatta. If- spectators are to be present, ability to construct a model according to plans some provision must be made for them so that and specifications. This is especially valuable they can view the course and not be in the way of the operators or the judges. The course must in the motor-boat class as speed is quite largely determined by a purchased power plant and not be wide enough so that a lane of from 10 to 20 so much by the skill of the yachtsman. This part feet may be allowed for each model participating of the regatta should usually take place after the in an event. races, as there is more or less handling in connec- should be very evenly matched. Sailboats may be tion with it and rudders and sail combinations are apt to suffer. Awards of simple colored rib- classified by their water line or their over-all bons serve very well for the more informal com- length, and perhaps also by their sail combina- petitions, and may be printed to indicate the ‘tions. In addition to their length power models various events. To be most interesting the models racing The judges should be persons who have some should also be classified according to the power knowledge of boats and their operation, and a plant used. familiarity with the procedure in sport events of Getting a power boat ready for a race includes this sort. setting the rudder so that the boat will hold to 74 GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS Art. Fin. Toward the stern of a boat. Ancuor. A grappling instrument attached to a Garr. Weight put into the bottom of Hatyarps. HatcH. Hutt. The spar which spreads the foot of a Jis. An extension of the underwater LEE Swe. BripcE. A crosswise structure on a ship provid- Lirt. Angle formed-by the meeting of the List. top sides and the bottom of V-bottom boats. Deck fixture to hold lines in place. Leaning over to one side. Line congruent with the surface of the water. MarnsaiL. The raised wood border of a cockpit. The space below the level One of several layers of which a model Loap WATER LINE. Small deck fixture for fastening a line. Cockpit. Opposite of weather side. boat may be made. ing good vision for the navigator. Coaminc. Lowest lengthwise structural member of a ship. The forward end of a boat. CLEAT. Foremost+triangular sail. KEEL. paint above the actual water line. CuHocx. Bare shell or body of a ship without superstructure. sail. Cuine. Part of the backbone of a ship of the hull. mooring lines are attached. Bow. Ropes which raise the sail. extending from the keel proper to the aft end A two-pronged deck fixture to which Boot Toprinc. the Opening in the deck of a vessel. . Horn TrmsBer. Deck fixture for fastening a line. Boom. by which of the hull to protect it from contacts. Structure which supports the com- pass of a ship. Botiarp. device Guarp. A strip of wood attached to the outside Having the wind directly behind. Bitt. A hinged boom is attached to the mast. Extreme width of a ship. BINNACLE. Forward part of the ship where The spar which spreads the top of the GoosENECK. a ship to steady it. BEAM. sailing sail. Stem, keel, and stern members. BEFORE THE WIND. of the sailors sleep. Across the ship. BaLiast. structure crafts. rest in the water. BACKBONE. bladelike FoRECASTLE. ship and thrown overboard to hold a vessel at ATHWaRT. Bottom Principal sail of a ship. Mast Step. of the Footing for the bottom end of the mast. deck, in pleasure boats usually equipped with Mipsuip. seats for passengers. Pitot House. Small houselike structure usually Couptinc. A device by which two shafts are placed forward, which houses helmsman and joined. the navigating equipment. Cruiser. A modern pleasure craft usually with PLANKING. facilities for extensive trips. Davit. Poor. A device for lowering small boats or Draft. . Outside skin or covering of a vessel. A light deck raised above the main deck and extending a short distance forward from anchors over the side of a vessel. Deck. Middle of the ship. the stern. Top floorlike covering of a ship. Port. Depth below the water line. Left-hand side of the hull when look- ing forward. 75 MODEL BOATS FOR JUNIORS 76 A round window. Port Licut. PROFILE. Side-view silhouette of the hull of a boat. PRopetier. A screwlike instrument which when turned by the power plant causes the vessel to move. Rapset Line. Line of contact between the planking and the keel. Ratsep Deck. Forward part of the deck when it is raised above the main sheer. Ropes which support masts, extend Riccinc. sails, etc. Instrument by RuppeEr. which a_ vessel is Runasout. A small fast type of pleasure boat usually open. RUNNING Licuts. Lights used when a vessel is under way: bow light (forward), white; starboard light, green; port light, red; mast light (high above deck), white. SHEER. Curve of the deck. Main sheer is the curve of the main deck; upper sheer, curve of the raised deck. Ropes which control the position of the fore and aft sail. SHROouDs. Cables or ropes supporting masts. Stoop. A one-masted vessel, fore and aft rigged. Spars. STERN. Aft end of a ship. Strut. Casting which supports the aft end of the propeller-shaft bearing. TABLE OF OFFSETS. List of dimensions for line drawings. TEeMPEATES. Patterns used in transferring the design from the drawing to the material of which the boat is to be built. Topmast. Mast next above the lower mast. Sail extended from a topmast. TopsartL. steered. SHEETS. StaTION. Cross sections through the hull. Stay. Strong rope or cable supporting a mast. StaysaIL. Sail that is extended on a stay. Stem. Foremost structural member of the hull. Masts, yards, booms, and gaffs. STARBOARD. Right-hand side of the hull when one is looking forward. Transom. The stern piece of a vessel which has or rounded aft end. a square TRAVELER. Rod fixture on decks of sailing crafts which permits the sheet line to shift with the sail from one side of the vessel to the other. TuMBLEHOME. Narrowing of the hull toward the deck line. TURNBUCKLE. A_ screwlike device used for tightening mast stays. Water Line. Curve made by plane passed through the hull parallel to the actual height of the water on the hull. WEATHER Sipe. Side against which the wind blows. YacutT. Light, fast ship used for pleasure, rac- ing, etc. INDEX Anchor, 53 Electric motors, 49 Ballast, eighteen-inch catboat, 62; twenty-five- Fin, eighteen-inch catboat, 58; twenty-five-inch sloop, 62 inch sloop, 63 Block, marking and cutting to templates, 25; method of holding while shaping, 11 Finish, 9 Bollards, 53 Flagpole sockets, 54 Boot topping, 20 Flags, 54 Bridge, open, 40 Forecastle, 46 Fixtures, 48, 53 Bridge rail, large yacht, 73; tramp steamer, 47 Bulwarks, 69 Gooseneck, 55 Cabin, midship, on tramp steamer, 46; thirty- Handrail, 55 Hatch, 72 inch yacht, 72; tugboat, 38 Hull, finishing, 32; hollowing out, 31; round- Cabin construction, 33-34 Cabin supports, 73 bottom, 32; shaping, 27; shaping outside, 41; Center of effort, 64 V-bottom, 32 Center of lateral resistance, 64 Installation of motors, 51 Chine, 29 Chocks, 54 Keel construction, 31; extension, 69 Cleats, 54 Keel line, left flat, 26, 27 ‘Cockpit, 40 Ketch, 65 Construction procedure, 9, 22; lift method, 41, 66 Lifeboats, 73 Couplings, 52, 54 Life rings, 55 Lifts, gluing together, 43, 67, 68; thirty-inch Davits, 54 yacht, 66; tramp steamer, 41 Deck beams, fitting and shaping, 31 _ Deck line, 24 Deck support block, 72 Mast-support block, twenty-five-inch sloop, 63 Decks, material for and shaping, 31; simulated Masts, tramp steamer, 47 Mooring bits, 55 planking, 21 Motors, installation, 51 Eight-inch runabout, 9 Eighteen-inch cabin cruiser, 36 Nail heads, 21 Eighteen-inch catboat, 58 Natural finish, 19 Eighteen-inch round-bottom day cruiser, 35 Eighteen-inch round-bottom runabout, 36 Paddle wheel, 13 Eighteen-inch scow, 39 Paint, 20 77 INDEX 78 Painted hulls, 19 Stay blocks, twenty-five-inch sloop, 63 Pilot house, 46, 72 Stays, eighteen-inch catboat, 60 Poop, 46° Steam-plant arrangement, 50 Port lights, 55 – Steam plants, 49 Power plants, 48 Stem, 69 Propellers, 55; sheet metal, 13 Struts, 52, 56 Propeller shaft, and tube, 51; lining motor with, 52 Tanks for toy boats, 18 Template, bottom, for V-bottom, 24; profile, Rail, tramp steamer, 47 Regattas, 74 Round bottoms, 22 Rubber-band motor, 12 24; top-view, 23 Templates, laying out, 22; station, for roundbottom, 25 Ten-inch catboat, 14 Rudder, 13, 53, 55; eighteen-inch catboat, 60 Thirty-inch model of a large power yacht, 66 Rudder port, 53 Toggles, eighteen-inch catboat, 60; twenty-five- Rudder tube, 60 Running lights, 56 inch sloop, 63 Tools, 9, 19 Tow post, 38 Sail, eighteen-inch catboat, 60 Sails, 15, 17; twelve-inch toy sailing sloop, 15; twenty-five-inch sloop, 64 Traveler, 56; eighteen-inch catboat, 62; twentyfive-inch sloop, 64 Turnbuckles, 56; twenty-five-inch sloop, 63 Sailing kinks, 64 Twelve-inch runabout, 11 Schooner, 65 Twelve-inch toy sailing sloop, 14 Searchlight, 56 Twenty-five-inch sloop, 62 Shaft angle, 51 Twenty-four-inch express cruiser, 40 Shaft hole, drilling, 52 Twenty-inch tugboat, 36 Simulated planking, 21 Twenty-two-inch ocean-going tramp steamer, 41 Sixteen-inch speed boat, 35 Sliding mast plate, twenty-five-inch sloop, 60, Underwater body, painting, 20 63; used to improve sailing qualities, 65 Sloop, 65 V-bottoms, 22 Spars, 15; eighteen-inch catboat, 60; twenty- Varnish, 21 five-inch sloop, 63 Ventilators, 56 Spring motors, 48 Stack, 56; thirty-inch model, 71; tramp steamer, 47 Windshields, 57 Wood filler, 21 Stand, 32- Wood finishing, 20 Station templates for round-bottom models, 25 Woods, 19; selection, 19 Stations (Figures 28-30), 23; marking top of block, 26 Yawl, 65