How to Build a Model Yacht by Herbert Fisher and Frank Nichols – 1928

t HOW TO BUILD A _. MODEL YACHT BY HERBERT FISHER ae. – |, ee YW? a y Pa 2 : peter lal . OW 7 4 ae apd al ae ; of PRICE ¢ ,» _ Gaar me oaAF °£5¥- 4gartermat pe . ‘ fp ee vee New York ~ THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY } POR TINE — 447 base e Po ae af: 6e nee do d f “te Oa & we A : O 4 r] ‘ COPYRIGHT 1902 BY THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY NEW YORK (All Righty Press Reserved) OF /femoris g Murray SrrReEET, NEW York Introduction S a model yacht was built, and some of my younger EVERAL years ago I had many inquiries as to how and far-away readers asked me if I would not publish a series of articles upon the subject. lished them in this form. We have added to Mr. Fisher’s articles a series of interesting and instructive papers by Mr. Frank Nichols, an expert model yachtsman, upon At my solicita- the art of sailing these boats, and also the design of Skiff, tion the late Mr. Herbert Fisher, who for many years had by him, which is used for the purpose of following the been interested in model yachting, and who had con- racing structed boats that have been contributed to THE Rupper at dif- a number of write upon the subject. these small craft, undertook to This series of articles met with ferent universal approval, and the numbers containing them had from. a wide sale. will As they have been out of print for some time, and as there is still an extensive call for practical instructions in the art of model making, we have repub- be models. times, If The and you glad to designs which build have have from a appended the been plans photograph are of several successfully in of this your built book boat publish. THE EpirTor. I to Model Yacht Construction THE HULL L will endeavor in these articles to supply the needed instruction in other will insure both sides of the boat being exactly alike. such a plain and simple After the plan is all finished, select one of the cross-sec- manner that any one with a spark of ingenuity tion lines on the half-breadth or longitudinal drawing as in their makeup, by following carefully the instructions near the middle of the boat as you can, and yet have it as laid down, will be able to construct a creditable model. cross every water line, and make it heavier or darker so The novice, however, must not be discouraged if he that you will not make a mistake, marking that line on finds that his work does not look so nice as some others, every layer or section to-be used as a guide in putting the or does not sail so well; but bear in mind that his compet- sections itors have perhaps that is, all lines parallel with the load water line—should had several years’ experience, and together. The water lines of the drawing— think that their first attempt was probably not equal to he a ilistance apart equal exactly to the thickness of the his, and prepare to tmprove in his next attempt by ob- material to be used in making the model; and. as it is de- servation and inquiries among those of more experience, sirable to have all pieces or layers out of the same wood for he will find that the majority of model yachtsmen are “to avuid any chance of breaking the joints by the expan- very generous advice. practical and willing to help one another by their sion or contraction of different growths of the wood, the With this introduction we will now .proceed to larger the boat to be built the thicker must be the plank instruction in the work of building a model from which it is to be made, in order to get all that is The old way, which has now become almost obsolete one-half inches thick, or a twelve-foot plank, two inches on account of the labor involved, was to cut and dig from thick, is generally sufficient to make a forty-inch 1. w. 1. yacht. wanted from one plank. a solid block; but as it has been demonstrated that there is very little pleasure or satisfaction in sailing a model of less than thirty-five or forty inches on the water line, and to cut one out of a solid block of that size called for con- siderable real, hard work. what is termed the bread-andbutter plan has superseded the solid block. By this plan the work becomes very light, and is very quickly done. A sixteen-foot plank, one and model of sixty inches over all length. In selecting the plank, be sure to get one that is free from knots, has a straight grain for its whole length, and shows but little sap on the edges, even if it should cost a cent or two more a foot, the advantage gained—in being easier to work, and in time saved—will more than balance the additional cost. Clear, white pine of this description will cost about seven or eight cents a foot. The first step is to lay down the plan, i. e., the shape and form of the boat to be built, on paper. By this we do Now that you have got your plank, take the drawing and cut away to the deck line, which will be the shape and not mean a picture of the yacht, but the lines of each size of the upper laver, and use as a pattern, laying it section, down on the plank and marking it carefully around the both longitudinally and size that the model is to be built. vertically, to the full It is only necessary edge betore removing it. Mark distinctly on the wood to draw out one-half of the boat, that is, one side, as the points for the center line from end to end, also for though the boat were cut in two pieces on a straight line, the cross-section line previously mentioned, to be used as a from bow to stern, in the center. It is also better, for the reason that, when the drawing is cut down for patterns, as will be described further on, reversing or turn- ing over the pattern after marking one side to mark the guide in putting together. Now turn the pattern over, and laying it down carefully, being guided by the points you have made for the center line and cross section, mark out the opposite side and the point for cross section. 0 HOW TO CONSTRUCT A MODEL YACHT Now remove the pattern, and with a straight-edge rule have a better and a stronger boat, as it is less liable to mark a check or split open. straight line from end to end, and also across at the points made for guide lines. Before commencing to shape the boat a set of tem- Now cut the drawing down to the line for the next plates or forms should be made similar to the cross sec- section or iayer, and lay it back on the section you have tions shown in the drawing, say every four or five inches already marked, being careful to the length of the boat. bring the center and These can be made of any thin cross-section guide lines in their proper places, directly wood that is easy to cut with a penknife, say one-sixteenth over those marked on the plank. to one-eighth of an inch in thickness, of pine or other soft Make a light dotted line around the pattern, turning over and marking the oppo- wood. site side the same. section line. Now mark a heavier or darker line Cut one edge to conform exactly to the crossTack to the upper end a straight piece so inside of the dotted line, distant from it about an inch on that the under edge of the straight piece is exactly on the the sides, and increasing the distance at the ends to two deck line, and long enough to reach to the center of the to three inches. boat; the object of this is to insure the template being This latter line marks the piece that will be sawed out from the upper layer, and leaving sufficient placed square on the boat when trying it. overlap to glue to the next lower section. pleted they will look something like this: Now move the pattern along the plank and mark the next section in the same manner as the first, after which <0) DECK A ) l ¥ in this three, if the model is for Fa ' 3 e manner until all the 3 sections are marked; the lower sections—one or two, perhaps a keel yvacht—will z 2 3 No-3 5 be ! $ MEEL solid, not sawed out in the center. LINE It will be found that the pieces that are to be cut out o ' the process for getting the inside line of the second secKeep on ra) am, DECK cut the drawing down to the third section line, and repeat tion as before. When com- ‘ ; FORE AFTER: Boby REEL - TEMPLATE TEMPLATE from the upper sections can be utilized for marking some of the lower ones, and also the parts that are left on the sides of the plank, where the ends of two of the larger sections come together, can also be made use of if a little judgment is used in cutting the plank economically. The plank is now ready to be taken to the saw mill or cabinet maker's, where they have jig and band saws, and Having the templates all made and numbered, you are now ready to shape the boat. ot the deck, transferring by measurements fully and cut down to the line. conform to the sheer, and mark a end to end as a guide better facilities they have for doing such work, and the certainty of having the joints well glued. very little. The cost is Care must be taken to bring the guide lines in their proper places directly over each other, both the longitudinal and cross section. This can be better done by squaring the lines down the edges of the sections after they are sawed out. When it is all glued together the whole will have the the Fit in a strip of wood temporarily from stem to stern cut on the upper side to ready to be glued together. the pieces glued where they are sawed on account of the from drawing to the wood measure, and mark both sides care- be sawed out to the lines drawn thereon, and they are It is the best plan to have First take off the sheer straight line on it from for the center of the boat; also mark square across on this strip, and on the edge of the boat the lines for the sections that templates are to be used on. Cut away for the profile of the keel, and place similar lines on the bottom, a line fore and aft for the center line, and = section lines squarely under those marked on the deck. You are now ready to commence to shape your boat. The tools required to do the work easily, and at the same time satisfactorily, are a good drawknife, a broad chisel form of a boat made of a series of steps, both inside and and two gouges—one about an inch broad outside, like the accompanying sketch, in which the dotted. half round in shape, for rough cutting, and one about an lines and shaded portion represent the outline of the boat inch and a half, and nearly flat, for finishing off the inside and nearly after it is finished, and you will find that the time and la- (Addis No. 8 or 9, one inch wide, and No. 4. one and bor saved by this manner will more than balance the slight one-half inch wide, will be found to be about right): a increase in cost over the solid block method, and you will small iron block plane, some sandpaper and a hlock of ‘ HOW TO CONSTRUCT .f MODEL hateh betore nailing on, se that the hand and weight can _. rt be anserted under the deck beams: nailon with five-eighth YACHT —*——,, No. iS wire nails (bung head). The rad should be of oak, one-quarter of au inch thick; cut five-eighth down to one-fourth three openings inch high at the bow, and taper inch at the stern. Cut out two or from the underside of the rail close to- gether at the lowest point of the deck, for scuppers, to allow the water to run off; these openings about an inch long. and halt the height of the rail. Bevel the rail where needed to conform to the section of the boat, and nail on with wire nails; it is well to drill holes in the rail for the nails to insure their going straight and to avoid splitting. I use a good strong nail for the rail, as there is quite screw to the deck. a Strain put upon it sometimes in catching it while sailing, about No. 14 It is well to have the rudder stock in the tube when fastening the plate to the deck, to insure (bung head), inch and one-quarter long. its being straight, so that the stock will turn easily. Then Sink the heads of all nails, both in the rail and deck; then with a small soldering iron, solder the plate to the tube with a small brush or pointed stick, touch them all with all round, pressing the deck down slightly while doing so. white lead paint. A shoe for the rudder to rest in must be made and fitted putty. As soon as the paint is dry, fill up with When the putty is hard enough, go all over the to the bottom of the keel at the stern post. boat with fine sandpaper, getting it as smooth as possible, and then give the whole a coat of white lead, mixed with The rudder itself can next be made. boiled linseed oil, and enough lampblack in it to give it a after it is fastened to the stock, then plane it down to the While you are waiting for the putty to harden, before painting, you could be putting in the rudder tube. be enough to three-eighth allow Cut out to the shape required, but leave it one-half inch or so thick until light slate color. should This is the only piece to be removed to put in or take out the rudder. the inch rudder outside stock, The manner of fastening to the stock is to drill three holes in the stock for a small wire to go thin through, and drill holes in the rudder to correspond, but diameter, which right thickness. This should smaller, so that the wires will drive in tight. be Clinch the five-sixteenth inch in diameter, to work freely, without ends of the wires on the stock, and smooth off. binding or rubbing in the least. sketch shows how the tube is inserted in the boat, and how With a three-eighth The bit, bore the hole from the underside, in exact line with the rudder is fastened to the stock. the stern post, up through the boat and deck. put on so that it can be removed when necessary to drop Have the The tiller should be tube long enough to reach from the deck to the bottom of the rudder. the keel. Saw or file away one-half or a little more of struction, which is the one at present most in favor with that part which lays along the stern post; then drill and the advanced model yachtsman, as by this plan he can be We now come to the built-up plan of con- countersink three or four holes in that part of it to fasten more certain of having his model accurate to the design, to the stern post. and also there is more pleasure in working this way, ow- At the upper end on deck, place a small plate of brass with hole in the center to just fit over the ing to the fascination that is inseparable from the work, as tube, and four small holes around the sides to nail or one sees the boat gradually take its form and rise, as it ~ GUIDE - PIE cE tT I HOW TO CONSTRUCT A MODEL YACHT 9 The designs are usually laid down with water lines one inch principal requisite for building a model is patience, and apart, and the lowest point of freeboard is generally two you will want a great deal of it. and one-half to two and three-quarter inches, the line were, from the keel to the deck under his hands. . The design for a built-up model should have the cross- two inches above the load water line may be selected and section lines spaced not more than three inches apart, and used for what will be termed the guide line, and you if the planking is to be very thin, say one-eighth of an have the same line on the vertical section or profile plan inch, two and one-half inches would be better, as these to use in marking the keel. lines represent the distance apart of the frames. sign would also show the rabbet lines. The de- This line marks where the planking commences on the keel. The design should also show the upper or inner edge of the keel, or what would be termed the keelson in a large vessel. As in We are now ready to commence the work of building. This description will be white cedar, as it is for a model built entirely of a wood easily worked, not liable to split, and also stands the action of most other woods. water better than Select a clear, straight-grained plank model building, the keel and keelson are all of one piece, of white cedar, twelve feet long, ten to twelve inches wide, thus insuring greater strength at the point where it is that will be one and one-quarter inches thick when planed most needed. on both sides. The first step is to make the body plans, one tor the best of these, Saw in two pieces six feet long. the one that is free from The knots, and To do this, straightest in the grain, have sawed into strips three-six- prepare two sheets of drawing paper, the same size as the teenths or one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and then one on which is the body plan, by drawing a vertical line run through a planing machine, planing both sides, and in the center, and a level line at the height of the load making them all of equal thickness, of one-eighth or water line. three-sixteenths, as you may desire. forward body, and one for the after body. Now place some heavy paper or cardboard These strips, which under the drawing of the body plan, and with a sharp pin will be one and one-quarter inches wide, have sawed or needle prick through on one of the section lines from through the center with a thin, fine saw. the top to the bottom of the frame, or where it strikes planking; lay it aside to dry, while you are getting out the rabbet line, your prick marks about one-quarter to the keel and frames, and setting them up. one-half an inch apart. This is your Prick also the top and bottom of Now mark and saw out the keel from the other half the center line and the load water line at the center and of the plank, which should properly be in three pieces, section line, also the points where diagonal lines cross. joined as shown in diagram, and fastened with glue and Remove the cardboard from under the body plan. screws. Draw The object of making the keel in three pieces is the center and water lines as shown by the prick marks, to have all the exposed parts as near straight with the and cut the pattern out by the prick marks of the section grain of the wood as possible. line; then with a pencil compass mark off from the edge plane down to the thickness required by the design. the thickness that your plank is to be, and cut down to after end, or dead wood, to be tapered down until it is the line thus made. This is the pattern for one pair of the right thickness at the stern post, and at the sections Lay this on the paper prepared for the working just forward of the stern post; otherwise the rabbet line body plan, being careful to have the center and load water will not be correct, nor will the frames of the counter lines exactly in their proper place, and mark around the set in their right position. frames. After it is all together, The edge; turn the pattern over, bringing the center and water Next lay the keel on the design and mark at each end lines in their place on the opposite side, and mark around where the guide line comes; then get out a square stick again. relative position that of pine, the same size as the thickness of the keel, bevel J-ay the pattern away care- the ends so that it will fit nicely in the keel. with the This gives you the exact this pair of frames will take. tully, as you will want it again to mark out the frames. upper side exactly on the guide line mark at each end, and Repeat this process for every section, placing the for- tasten-securely with screws. Now lay the keel back on ward sections on the forward body plan, and the after the design. and mark each cross-section line on the keel, sections on the after body plan. and also on the guide piece. After you have all the sections marked off in this manner, draw a Square the lines across the line parallel top of guide piece. and both top and bottom of keel, and with and above the load water line, and about one-half with a straight edge or rule, mark the lines on the sides inch below the upper end of the lowest section in the after of the keel square with the water line: then mark the body plan, and at the same point on forward body. rabbet line on the keel, and cut out to the depth required As ae) HOW TO CONSTRUCT 4 MODEL YACHT Great care must be frames in the keel with glue and fasten with long, thin taken in cutting this line, to keep a square corner at the screws or wire nails, and tack the strip to the guide piece. bottom, and see that it is cut at the proper angle tor the \When the frames are all in, cut out the stern, or fash- for the thickness of the planking. plank to lay in, which will be different at ditferent points, ion piece as it is sometimes called, for the end of the Phe angles can be found by noticing how each section overhang. ‘This is to be made of some moderately hard wood, such as cherry or light mahogany, that is not liable meets the keel at the rabbet line. Next take all the pieces that were left when sawing tu split, as a number of screws are to be put into it. out the keel, have them resawed to one-half the thickness, There should be a rabbet cut on the underside for the and planed down to about one-half inch or less. Take ends of the plank to set into, and it should be carried up the patterns from which you made the body plans, cut high enough to form a part of the rail around the deck. them down so that they will be about one-half inch wide, Mortise for the end of the overhang part of the keel and and mark out all the frames on the half-inch pieces, be- set in glue and fasten with screws. ing careful to keep the frame with the grain of the wood Next take two of the plank strips and fasten them temporarily to the upper end of the frames with small as much as possible, two frames for each pattern. It is well in order to avoid too much cross grain in marking the midship section frames to make them of two pieces, each joined at a point on the bilge by a thin strip, glued and tacked on both sides of the frame. When marking the frames out, every frame should be numbered, and the guide line and all diagonal lines marked on each frame, then have them sawed out with a fine band saw. After joining the frames that are made of two pieces, bevel all Secure one end of each plank to the stern piece, then spring them together at the center and tie a stout cord around them and across the frame, drawing screws, them close up against the frames. Then, beginning at the stern, screw them to the frames—one screw to each frame is sufficient to hold them in place. Put one screw on each side alternately until you reach the center, then the frames, taking the bevels for each frame and for each remove the cord and spring together at the bow and tie, being very careful to spring them evenly, then finish point on each frame from the deck line and diagonal screwing them to the frames, cutting the forward ends lines on the half-breadth plan where they intersect the so that they will fit into the rabbet at the bow where cross sections. the last screw on each side fastens them. Now cut the mortises for frames in the keel; those of You are now ready to commence putting on the planks. the forward body cut forward of the section line, and The first plank on each side, called the garboard, requires those of the after body cut back of the section line. considerable care to make a good fit. The Take a short piece, frame at midship, which will be the one without any just long enough to have the ends meet the rabbet at bevel, will take the section line in the center, and thus either end, have the upper edge perfectly straight, and tend to equalize the distance between frames at that point. cut away the lower edge until it fits nicely into the rabbet After the frames are all beveled, take one pair of them at the lowest point and both ends are equal distance from and lay them on the body plan so that they are exactly on the temporary sheer plank; fasten with half-inch number the section lines of the corresponding number. See that one brass screws, using two screws to each frame where the marks for guide line and diagonal lines are directly the plank is wide enough, and one screw between the over those points on the body plan, and, holding them frames. screwing the plank to the keel. Use a small firmly in place by weights or other means as convenient, brad awl to make a hole through the plank, and just en- tack a strip of wood about three-eighths of an inch square ter the point of the awl into the frame, turn the screws in from one to the other to hold them the right distance until they countersink themselves a little below the sur- apart, the lower edge of the strip exactly on the guide face, so you will not hit them when smoothing off. line on the frame. Use wire nails, only one at each end of the strip, so that the frames can swing slightly, find and mark the exact center of this strip and place this mark over a center line drawn on the guide piece, then fit the lower ends of the frames into the mortises in the keel until the strip just touches the guide piece, and the strip is exactly at right angles with a perpendicular line from the guide piece to the keel. Set the ends of the When the garboard is on one side, turn the boat around and put one on the other side in the same manner. Next fit a plank on each side by simply trimming the ends to fit the rabbet, and if necessary, on account of the curve of the frames, level the lower edge to fit to the garboard. This should be done wherever necessary all the way up the sides, so that the planks will touch each other both inside and outside. Place only one plank on HOW TO CONSTRUCT, A MODEL YACHT II each side at a time, carrying both sides up together. a model yacht. Fasten each plank with two screws to each frame, and lows: two in each end to the keel. frames, so that the upper edge is half an inch below the It will be found to be very convenient to have some The simplest and quickest way is as fol- First screw one of the planks to the inside of the upper edge of the sheer plank. This forms a support small screw clamps, say about a dozen, to hold the planks for the deck beams, and at the same time stiffens the in place while screwing them on. whole boat—it is sometimes called the shelf. Spring the plank into Another its place, using a clamp on every other frame; put the one is sometimes placed about half way between the shelf screws in intermediate frames, then remove the clamps and the keel, called the bilge strake, to help stiffen the and put in the balance of the screws. boat. Plank about one- quarter of the way up, and then stop and measure the It is not absolutely necessary in a model, unless the frames and planking are very light. distance that remains to be planked on each frame; take For the deck beams use any short pieces which are the greatest distance that you find, and see how many left from the planking. planks it will take to finish. Then divide the distance on that you want for the rise of the deck in the center, cut each of the other frames into the same number of equal them in lengths to just touch the sheer plank on either parts. side, and rest on the shelf. This will give you the width of the plank at dif- ferent points. Cut one of ‘the planks down to the width Place one screw in each end, screwing them to the sides of the frames. required, and use as a pattern to mark and cut others by as you go along. Cut the upper edge to the curve It is only necessary to put a deck beam to every alternate frame, except where the mast tube or step is lo- When you have planked up about half way, stop and ee measure over again the distance. that remains to be 5 planked on the different frames to see if you are going & to come out right at the top, and make any necessary change in your pattern plank. A = SHELF ; B The object of this is to keep the planks as near as C 2 DECK-BEAM = PARTNER D = 0AK-CovER-BOARD. possible of the same width at the ends, and not have them get so narrow at either end (as they are liable to), that they will not take a screw. Repeat the measuring process after getting about three-fourths of the plank on. When planked as far as possible, take off the temporary sheer plank and finish up to the top of the frames. Next cut away the surplus wood at the stern or bow of the boat, and also along the sides of the keel, if the cated. As fast as the deck beams are put in, remove the tie pieces which are under them, and when all are in, plan shows that the keel is shaped to conform to the sec- loosen the guide piece and draw it out. tion lines, then with a small block plane set very fine go of the plank to form the sides of the hatch, nailing them Insert two pieces all over the boat, taking off any sharp corners that may securely to the deck beams, that will be the forward and happen to be where the planks join, and sandpaper the after ends of the hatch. whole down smooth. Next get out the cover boards. Now take some heavy muslin and cut into strips just These should be of oak, to stand the knocks and hard usage a boat is liable to wide enough to fit in between the frames on the inside of get. The cover board and rail (which should also be of the planking, and fasten them in with glue or thick shel- oak) get all the hard knocks and do not show them. lac, rubbing down smooth with the hand. When they They should be of the same thickness as the deck proper, are dry the whole inside of the boat should have three and cut about an inch wide at midship, but can taper at coats of white lead mixed with turpentine, and a very either end to three-quarters or five-eighths, cut to exact little boiled oil, and a little lampblack, just enough to shape of the deck line, allowing them to project over give it a light slate color. Allow each coat to get per- fectly dry before applying the next. The next thing to do is to place the deck beams in po- sition. There are several wavs of putting the deck on about an eighth of an inch, and round the outer edge. It is better to make them of two: pieces to each side, to avoid cross-grain. Cut one piece to lay on from bow to the center of midship frame, and the second from there 12 HOW C1 \e TO CONSTRUCT D D se] A MODEL YACHT jar of the blows from the hammer. To make the boat perfectly watertight it should now be caulked. The tools required for caulking such light work consist of a putty knife, and two small wheels, mounted in handles in the same manner as tracing wheels used by ladies to trace off patterns. The wheels may be made Aa PRanmcs of brass, which is easier to turn up than iron, and suf- C+ Guioe Piece D+ Binding strip ficiently durable. Bs Keer E+Ragaer They should be about one-half inch in diameter by one-eighth thick; one to have a sharp V- shaped edge for opening the seam, the other square on the to the stern. Lay them on top of the frames and mark for screw holes, one to each frame, and one between the frames, but near the inner edge. Drill and countersink the holes; those for the frames for three-quarter inch number 4 screws, the others for smaller size. When the cover boards are screwed down to the frames cut some thin pieces (bits of planking will do) to go under the cover board, and project about one-quarter of an inch toward the center of the boat. and secure with a small screw. Glue them in These are to support the deck while caulking. Get out the strips for the partner—the part forward of the hatch—one and one-half inches wide, and that aft of hatch one inch wide. They should be about three-six- teenths of an inch in thickness. Cut out the deck beams for them, so that when in place they are flush with the top of the deck beams, and nail them in with small wire Before nailing the forward strip, make the bitt nails. for the heel of the bowsprit and put it in, bore a half- inch hole in the keel about half an inch deep, and set the bitt down in and secure with a screw throug h the deck beam, as shown in the sketch. The part that projects above the deck should be about three-quarters or seven- edge, about one-twentieth of an inch wide on the face. For the caulking, use coarse knitting cotton, number 5 or 6. a small brush, saturate it well with white lead paint, the same as used on the inside of the boat. over the bitt closely, and then nail it in place. backward with a slight pressure, but not hard enough to go through and cut the muslin. Lay the cotton over the seam, and with the putty knife press the end of it into the seam to start it, and with the square-edged wheel roll it evenly a little below the surface. Caulk every seam you can find in the boat, both bottom and deck, not omitting the one under the cover board, between that and the sheer plank; then with a small pencil brush touch every screw and nail head with the white lead paint. As soon as the paint is dry, go over every seam and screw and nail, and fill up smooth with good white-lead putty, which you can make yourself by taking the white lead as it comes in the can, stiffen it up with whiting to the proper consiste ncy, adding a few drops of Japan—say half a teaspoo nful to. a lump the size of an egg. = Bowserit = You will find this will dry — Beey | oo) cDECK -— Le PARTNER The rud- der tube should be put in also before putting on the deck, Deck -Beam in order to make a nice job of it, and get a good fit around it. Then with the V- shaped wheel open the seam by rolling it forward and eighths of an inch square, and have a half-inch hole bored in it to receive the heel of the bowspr it. Cut a square hole in the forward partner strip to fit Cut off a piece just the length of the seam you are going to caulk, lay it out straight on a board, and with Cut out and fit closely one-half of the deck, bring the _ Straight side exactly to the center of the boat, cut the notches to fit close on the bitt and rudder tube, then mark and cut out the place for the hatch, and nail it on with bung head wire nails. Use half-inch number 20 nails, and put them close together; half an inch apart is about right. Cut and fit the.other side in the same manner , and nail on. You will require some one to help you in nail- ing to hold a weight under the deck beams to receive the Keey ue HOW TO CONSTRUCT 4 MODEL YACHT 13 much quicker than ordinary putty, and be much harder. Give the putty a week—or two weeks is better—to get varnished in the natural wood. thoroughly dry and hard, and then sandpaper down ever, you must be very thorough in the sandpapering to In the meantime you can be making the spars remove every spot of paint, except such as will show in smooth. The boat is now ready to be painted, or, if you prefer, If this is done, how- the seams and screw heads. and put on the rail. The Sails | economical and accurate cutting of a suit of sails for \ILL now endeavor to give some instructions for the the topsails, thus insuring a good setting and drawing sail. The plan given is about a fair Never hem the sails, for by so doing they are liable to average for what can be carried by a 40-inch |. w. 1. model, although the form and outline of the immersed be drawn all out of shape, and there is nothing to take section might suggest some change in the size of the bind them. a model yacht. any strain that may come on a bias cut edge. Always For in- The best binding for the purpose is the Lion Brand stance, a model with a very deep, strong forefoot would silk binding, made of silk and cotton, three-eighths of an require larger jib and staysail, and necessarily a longer inch wide. bowsprit, while a model with forefoot cut entirely away without drawing or stretching the sail, and then stitched —like some of the modern freaks or racing machines— by machine. would require a smaller area of headsail. the other sails only on the cut edges, not binding the headsails in order to obtain a perfect balance. A boat's sails are said to be properly balanced when, with the sails all selvage. It should be folded and carefully basted on The mainsail should be bound all around, The jib and staysail should now have a stay laving olf at the same angle with the center line of the run through the binding to take all strain in setting up, boat and without the use of a rudder, will point up close the upper end being left long enough to pass down to the to the wind. keeping all sails full, and sail a steady course, deck and part way back. neither luthng into the wind and shaking, or falling off fish under an increased pressure and taking the wind abeam. The sails for this plan can all be gotten out of two yards and a quarter ot Lonsdale cambric, 36 inches wide. it line, than as it is For halyard use cotton-braided pliable most other lines. and has less Use the same stretch to for rigging, sheets, etc. The mainmast should be twenty-eight inches from The best plan to insure accuracy is to lay the cloth out deck to spreader, thirty-four inches to masthead. on the floor, stretching it evenly, and pin to the carpet mast is set through the deck to the keel, as much more so that it cannot get out of place, then with yard stick and straight edge lay out and mark with lead pencil each sail before cutting. Now the sail is not cut on the straight line marked, but cut to the dotted line shown, curved outward from straight line, the greatest distance from straight line being at the points marked A and A-1, on the jib and staysail this distance to be only about oneeighth of an inch; on the mainsail at the points marked A one-quarter of an inch and at A-1 three-eighths of an inch. No dimensions are given for the topsail, as it has been found by experience that it is better to get all the other sails made and set up, and then take measurements for AN AVERAGE Sait PLAN FoR A 40 incn -LWI MODE! If the HOW TO CONSTRUCT A MODEL YACHT 14 must be added as necessary. Make the mast quarters of an inch in diameter to spreader, or a three- little the outer end, tapering to five-eighths of an inch at th outer end, and a full half inch at the mast. The boom: The gaff and boom should be at for jib and staysail about three-eighths of an inch in diam eter; topmast twenty inches long, the first six inches of : least one inch longer than the measurement marked on diameter to fit easily in the masthead cap and spreader below, and cut the masthead five-eighths of an inch square from spreader to cap. sail plan; the gatf five-eighths of an inch diameter at the center, tapering gradually toward each end; the boom three-quarters of an inch diameter at a point three- quarters of its length from the mast, or one-quarter from and tapered to about one-quarter at the top. | For the metal work you will require an inch or two o five-eighths square brass tubing, the same of one-hal round tubing, about one foot of one-eighth. Pemeetendaiestaiteattiee tas tenets tenimmtiniata en aiiae, Stay Sait \ HOW TO SAIL A MODEL YACHT BY FRANK NICHOLS How to Sail a Model Yacht E will endeavor to answer the many inquiries as in steadying or holding our boat to us when the end is model yacht, and paraphernalia necessarily con- placed on the deck, the anti-slipping properties of rubber i? nected with this fascinating sport, with a few hints _ _ Practical investigation by sailing and experimenting aS ‘with a model will tend to enlighten the aspirant more than Salt that can be written on the subject, however, and make Ba. it plain sailing, if we do have to jam on the wind once ina “s «. while to accomplish it; it is possible that we might do ' worse; at any rate, it keeps us out of mischief . So we ‘will cast off our tow line and tack for the starting line. - As we will confine ourselves at present to pond and i _ smalil-lake sailing, a few hints will not come amiss in _-, fégard to-a few little necessities in the shape of small ; fishing line for repairing damaged rigging. : — Sufficient of this line should be carried so that in case Our yacht becomes becalmed in midstream we may by *. fastening a weight to one end and casting it so that our - line will fall across our boat, it may by chance become entangied in the rigging and enable us to recover our yacht without further delay ; but if our pond is well to the weather, or in other words, as it shoul d be, unobstructed by trees and shrubbery, it would no doubt do away with the slinging act and prevent the fumes of sulphur arising over that particular pond or lake, as the case may be. < © aiding in this instance. thrown in, B-, :+ being bruised or scratched while fending, and also aids to the modus operandi of sailing and handling a A good pocket-knife, of course, is essent ial where broken spars are to be spliced or tempo rary ones made to take the place of ones beyond repair. A few links of brass chain are handy, as well as small screw-eyes of brass; these can be carried in the pocket, as well as a Pair of small wire cutters and nippers combined. Last and not least a needle and a spool of number Io linen thread will finish up our pock et repair shop. Next in order will be to supply ourse lves with a pole made of some light, tough wood , about six feet in length, and about one inch in diameter at butt, tapering slightly to the other end; over this we will slide a six-inch piec e of rubber tubing, which shou ld fit fairly snug, allowing “one-half inch of the tubing to project over the end of pole. Technically speaking this pole is called a fender or tacking pole, the rubber tubing protecting the model from Some model yacht clubs restrict the length of pole to four feet, but as our sailing is apt to be done on water that shoals up very rapidly near shore the six-foot pole is preferable and necessary by enabling us to reach, fend and tack our model before avoiding wet feet. she touches ground, and Yet we are liable to this mishap at any time, and should not allow a little thing like that to trouble us. , A pair of rubber boots would be the means of avoid- ing all this and might be of use when necessary to wade in and clear our yacht from snags and weeds; by all means (if not the owner of a pair of rubber boots) do not remove your shoes and stockings and go it barefoot, for you will regret it, as you will have to do some tall sprinting around that water to fend and save your boat from running aground as she tacks to the opposit e shore. In this case it is better to supply one’s self with a mate who will attend'to fending and tacking the boat from the other side. By all means bring a mate and avoid lacerat- ing your feet. The next and most important Step is the choice of model. As far as form is concerned we will leave that matter to the tender care of the designe r or builder. If you cannot design or build your own boat, you can at least submit your ideas that you may wish carried out to some model yacht designer and builder, who will no doubt be able to illustrate them in worki ng shape by a set of plans at a nominal cost for the trouble . Our experience has taught us that models under 25 inches 1. w. 1. are very unsatisfactory performers. The most satisfac- tory results have been obtained from models of 35 to 45 inches 1. w. 1., and would recommend that limit where sufficient depth of water can be obtained. Otherwise 25 to 30 inches 1. w. |. will answer fairly well. Taking it for granted that we have decide d on our model, rigged and canvased her, we will proceed to put her overboard and test her sailing abilitie s, and endeavor to correct our and her faults, if any. i8 . HOW TO SAIL A There is one important and necessary adjunct to the perfect and satisfactory working of our model that we evidently forgot to mention, that is the automatic steering gear, which is used almost universally on all models of the present day for steering before the wind, at which point of sailing a model is at a loss without it. It is natural to suppose that we were in such great haste to get our boat overboard that we forgot this necessary attachment. Therefore, we will restrain ourselves for the time being and explain the workings of this steer- ing gear with a few illustrations. The tiller in this case is shipped aft, or the reverse of the ordinary tiller, and securely fastened on head of rudder post. The secondary sheet B, used when sailing before the wind, is shown fastened to the main boom directly over the tiller, thence passing through an eye on tiller, thence forward to a pinning cleat on forward deck. For gaug- ing the play of tiller a line C knotted at end is passed through a hole in tiller, directly aft the thwartship cleat E, under tiller as shown, thence through a hole in cleat to forward pinning cleat, where it can be shortened or allowed more slack by pinning fore or aft as required. The rubber band D serves to keep the tiller amidships when the tension on secondary sheet is relaxed by light wind, in fact serving as a hand at the tiller or wheel, as it were. This is the up-to-date steering gear. For handi- ness it is far superior to the old screw gauge. The use of this most ingenious steering apparatus will be made apparent when we get into our sailing “togs.” As we have acquired our steerer, bverboard she goes. Let us hope that the waters in which we are about to launch our boat are not as bad as painted in our previo us article. An artificial sheet of water, say about one-sixteenth of a mile square, or oblong in shape is better, with good and equal depth throughout, with a board or stone coping walk around its edge a few inches above the level of the water. If this be the case it will facilitate our maneuvers and give greater satisfaction to ourselves. We will select to start with a beat to windward, which is the most crucial point of the Sailing abilities of our boat. In trimming our sails we must be carefu l not to flatten them down too much; the result of this would be that our boat would be in irons, or, in other words, would pinch so close to the wind that she would have her sails shaking, and be continually falling off or luffing in the wind’s eye, making very little headway, if any at all. It is safe to trim the mainsail so that the boom at a point over taffrail is about two or three inches to one side of center of it. MODEL YACHT Our foresail and jib will be trimmed about the same angle as main boom. By holding her off a little, while she rests upon the water, we can observe how her sails draw in relation to each other and if satisfactory, and at the same time making sure that our rudder is playing freely, and everything snug about deck, we let go and she is off on her first leg to windward. first time it will be surprising. you walk around to meet her. If she sails true the Watch her closely, as Ah! she begins to luff. Then she pays off a little, then up she goes again. won't do. This So, as she comes toward us, say on starboard tack (that is with the wind on her right side), within reach of our fender, we place it against the outer end of port side of bowsprit or nosepole, applying a little pres- sure, at the same time keeping pace with her advance un- til she is about one or two feet from us, then with extra pressure and a short sweep of fender we bring her around on port tack or with left side to the wind. In case she does not fill away promptly, we shift our . oe fender to lee quarter or right-hand side of overhang of - | stern, and a little pressure to windward we manage to fill” her away on her proper tack for another hitch up the _ We will note how she behaves. No doubt, this. pond. will be a repetition of starboard tack. ¥ We will retrace’ 2%. our steps and hustle around on the other side, in the meantime doing a great deal of thinkin g, and as she finally reaches us on this tack, we have made up our” mind that something must be done to make her steady. So, stooping down as she arrives, we grasp the bowspric and round her up for alterations. : We try pinning the tiller amidships so that it will be .. fore-and-aft, allowing no play to the rudder , and let her go once more. This alteration seems to have done the business, as she sails true and steady. Some good may be done by slacking or easing mainsheet a trifle, but this. is likely to force our boat off a point and cause her to lose ground, so should advise the former method , if pos- _ sible. So much, so good. Now that she behaves her- self, we will content ourselves by remaining on one side of pond, allowing our mate on other side to tack ship, and vce versa, finally reaching the upper end, where you ar- rive to try her down the wind, or, in other words, before the wind. As she arrives, we stoop and grasp her bowsprit with one hand, with the other placin g the pin at- tached to the tiller line a few holes aft, thereby relieving the. tiller. Then we bring her stern to us, unsnap mainsheet 4, sufficient slack having been allowed to second ary sheet so that the boom wilt swing off, as we put her before the =~" = r t : SCALE ° weit -- _TM \ \ ‘ * > – – ‘ \ ‘ \ \ ‘ . \ \ ‘ \ ‘. ~. , \ ~ ~ \ J , ‘ \ 4 \ 4 ss Py x \ Be ‘ ( <, STEERING GEAR FOR MODEL YACHT “As, . , HOW 20 wind. TO SAIL A Be careful not to give so much swing as to allow AIODEL YACHT this case, she is a disappointment. The next thing is t the gaff to press too heavily against the shrouds, thereby preventing sufficient tension on tiller line and causing the boat when under way to run across the wind, making a dive for the sidewalk, resulting possibly in a smash-up. ute it to one of two things: either her model is wrong and if this be so, we can never expect to cure her, but be Having this properly adjusted, we need not trouble our- moderate selves about fore-and-jib sheets, as the fore sail and jib sailed; the other cause is that she possibly has too rank a find the cause of this peculiar action. We can only attrib- content to sail her in winds that seem to suit, such as a whole-sail breeze, in which she previously are of little use directly before the wind. In a quartering wind they may be slacked a little with advantage. meets the after curve of sheer at or near taffrail, the ef; We may at this point let her start down the pond, our fect being to drag or steer her off the wind. mate in the meantime making his way slowly toward the lower end, pausing midway to be prepared in case our sheer so that the water as it flows ait on inclined deck The same may be seen in some instances when our larger yachts are heeled with their decks awash, causing model takes a slant to him, to fend her off and prevent them to carry a lee helm, or, in other words, their tiller is a collision with the coping. pressed to leeward, bringing the rudder to windward side Having let her go you take the opposite side from your mate, and on a run, too, for she will sail very fast and possibly take a slant to your side, so you will have to If she turns to hustle to be on hand, should she do so. in order to keep her up to her work or from paying oft This is a bad state of affairs, and a hard matter to remedy except by easing head sheets and letting the mainsail do most of the work, which does not speak well for the either side it is evident that a little more rudder must be given her; this can be done when we make our next trip down the wind. in the meantime we content ourselves balance of the yacht. with fending or working our boat along the side until we model or large yacht to this extreme. have reached the lower end of the pond for another try to a race we cannot stop to reduce sail, but take it as it windward. comes. As our previous trial has taught us the ropes Yet it is sometimes advisable ta shorten sail and keep her decks clear of water; in fact there is not much advantage, if any, gained in sailing a In a model and in As it ig not within the scope of this article to ga on this point of sailing, we simply haul in our boom and into details, as to the proper form to eliminate this bad snap the mainsheet to traveler or boom, according as our feature, we will take the question up at some future time sheet is led, pin up our tiller line, noting the present po- In the meantime our model vachtsman can form his sition of pin before shifting, so that when we start down own theories, as to causes and remedies which, after a again before the wind, after working up pond, we can little practice at model sailing, he will-acquire by intuition give her one more hole aft than she had last time, thereby and observation. improving her performance by making a clean lower end. run to The necessity of a skiff from which to handle out So far we have succeeded in making her go model needs little comment, since the expanse of watel very well in a supposedly steady whole-sail breeze, but it makes is blowing up, and pretty soon we will have a squally ming the sails of our yacht. time of it; then we will see about the all-around abilities doubt be found in obtaining a proper boat for the pur- of our model. pose. Now the wind comes in squalls, knocking her down, then she is up again, like a jack-in-a-box, windward the squalls last longer, and inadequate any other means of tacking or trim- Great difficulty will no A round bottom should be avoided, otherwise we will take our chance of being rolled into the drink, which, .\s she plies to unless particular care is exercised, may easily occur in we observe that leaning over the side in the act of tacking or trimming’ there is something wrong: our boat as she heels the water the vacht’s sails. almost up to her hatch begins to run off. that is, the It is preferable to use a flat-bottomed boat. and one She is not as light as possible. with good round or sweep of bottom wind seems to blow her head away from it. making to windward at all: in fact, is turning tail like a fore-and-aft for easy rowing. whipped afford it, to build or have built a proper boat dog. She gets almost across fairly flies, making a rush for the siding. the wind, and This won't do: purpose. It is far better, if we can We therefore submit a design for the for a skitt of so after securing her, we slack off our head sheets a little Which and try it again. About titteen dollars will cover the cost of same, if oak This seems to have the desired effect. a number are in use among model vacht but is not quite sufficient to aid her in clawing to wind- and cedar are used in the construction, ward, which she ought to do in all winds. this style of skiff are. first, speed and easy Therefore, in clubs The beauties of pulling: sec- HOW TO SAIL A MODEL YACHT STERN & Tor 7 LINES VSED IN LenctH Beam. Oe of] seat SKIFF oF SAILING oe «# MODEL YACHTS. . //-3° 3o-9 iii cores “134 SHEER--- a 4 ond, the rapidity with whic h she can be twisted on her center, ing a very fouls in necessary a race feature where a fact, the advantage of appreciated in actual tacks, or avoid- of models are such a skiff can be best practice. should not exceed six (6) short number bunched. In in Oars for practical use feet in length, as longer ones would be unhandy, espec ially at close quarters or in a jam of skiffs. To complete the internal arrangement of our skiff we will need a cush ion of some kind on the seat, Just forward of the seat we should lace or hook from side tu side (small eves having been previous ly placed inside the skiff) a piece of heavy sheeting conforming to Width of skiff and about thirty-six (36) inches in length, allowing it to sag in the middl e. clearing the floor of skiff about three (3) inches, thus forming a sort of hammock. In this we ean carry odds and ends in the shape of rigging, extra spars and our light sails handy within our reach and protected from the soil of the boat's floor , On the floor ainidships just in line with the afte r edge of seat we will fasten a small wood or metal belaying to make fast our yacht’s tow line, which is led through an eve placed on top of stern post. The tow line should be of sufficient length to allow the outb oard end When brought inboard to extend about a foot forw ard of the seat: the object of this will be understood later. To the end of this line sho uld be fastened a wir e hook shaped like an attenuated (UC), with an eye to rece ive the end of cleat tow Tine. inches, the length of this hook being at least. four The advantage of this pee uhar hook is that it can be iS le > easily handled and made fast to a ring or eye that should be placed on under side outb oard end of bowsprit or nose – pole. Its length prevents its jumping out of eye, but yet is easy to unship. Our skiff fitted with a pair of swivel varlocks and a sufficie ntly long painter will complete our equipment. Our starting point will probably be off a boat or club float, many yachts and oth er vessels are lying moored in close proximity, thereby prec luding any attempt at starting our yac ht following after. directly from the float Therefore we will’ simply launch and our model (if possible from the lee of floa t), hook on tow line previously placed in position, step gently into our skiff. facing aft, quietly sea ting ourself. The oars should be Iving one on each side in skiff, with the blades aft, we pick up the oar fur thest from the Hoat. placing the bla de against the float. push off strongly: So as to make room for the oth er oar When shi pped. then shipping our oars, we pull with short, eve n strokes until we have reached a point beyond the moo rings, where we Will have open wat er, In the meantime it will have required considerable skill and many wig wags of the skiff to avoid obstructi ons, and the mod el will dart here and there if we do not keep a taut line on her. -\s we are headin g against the win d we will have a comparatively Open waters, easy we job. Now will—well, Want to get our vacht. that here we comes have the It seems easy eno ugh. reached rub. We Our tirst impulse is to haul in on the tow line. Tf we do that we have our model cho ck-a-hlock against the stern pest. Tn order to get at her we will have to goa t. This the shat Will object to, and possibly SIVE WS neste caf hie HT. HOW 22 TO SAIL A The proper way is to remain seated, slow up, and, by MODEL turn. YACHT We go through the same maneuvers as before, proper manipulation of the oars, give the stern of our with one exception, namely, as we seize and get her in skiff a little twist to port or starboard, which will tend to control, unsnap mainsheet, at the same time keep pulling pay our model off on either tack. Hold skiff at rest and ahead with our outer oar, until we have swung around our yacht will eventually follow the radius of the tow quartering to the wind, when we can let go, and she is off line, gradually swing to us on lee side of skiff, when we before the wind, getting under way quickly. can place our hand upon her and proceed to trim our ample opportunity of exhibiting our oarsmanship and sails, if necessary. speed in overhauling her. When ready cast off tow line, tak- We will have We may keep abreast on either ing the hook end in aboard the skiff, dropping it close at side we wish, but on approaching the line of moorings we hand on the floor. should, when sufficiently near without fouling them, row All this must be done by one hand, the other keeping the weather oar in motion, in order to strongly until our stern is about at her nosepole. retain our position with the yacht on lee side of skiff. As down a our model gathers headway she will hug the skiff. Slow little, let her come to us; as we secure her, hold In water strongly with our working oar, and we will swing order to avoid this, we back water with oar that is in use, partially up to windward; then, making fast the main- this swinging us clear of her. sheet, we are ready for another cruise. As she clears us, twist our skiff around so that it bears on her lee quarter, then pull If we have decided to return to boathouse we hook up until we are abreast of her, being careful to avoid on our tow line, get her well up in the wind’s eye; so that giving her our wash. Now we can watch her to our heart’s content, as she sails along on this tack. we row up ahead a When we decide to go about little, turning quickly to windward, then with two or three strokes, which carry us across her bows, keeping the oar nearest to her in the oarlock, we swing the blade aft and inboard out of the way; letting go, we reach out and grasp the nosepole, passing her along with the momentum of the skiff until we are able to grasp her stern, when, holding water strongly with our other oar, we will be rewarded by her paying off on other tack, and off she goes, going through these maneuvers for each and every tack to windward. When we feel we have made off shore sufficiently, we will prepare to re- she is all ashake, push her sharply astern, ship oar, and pull quickly ahead before she has a chance to fill away and be on top of our oars and make a mess of it. When well straightened out, swing around in a wide circle, and as the wind draws abeam, you must hustle to keep away from her. As the wind hauls aft she will rush first on one side, then the other, but by rowing fast enough to keep a taut line, we need not mind these antics. As we near the float we make a wide detour, rounding up so as to bring our model up in the wind. As we make the float we can haul in on tow line until she is close to skiff. Taking a turn around the cleat we then seize our painter, and as we scrape up alongside, we scramble out, make fast and the rest is easy. DESIGNS FROM THE RUDDER _ Lines of Model Yacht for Open-Water Sailing [ submitting this design for a model yacht we have endeavored to devise a steady sailing model, one not constructed merely for the attainment of speed, yet this latter requisite also has been sufficiently con- sidered. We call attention to the fact that the draught is not in the extreme, yet we think that sufficient depth has been given the ballast with due care taken to apportion the sail area to fit this limitation. Asa whole we havea very snug, seaworthy model, which we are confident will per- form exceedingly well in all weather. Draught, hull………6…ccececeeedes 4.5 Draught, extreme………………… 10.25 Displacement, Ibs………………… 41.26 Ballast, all in fin x bulb, Ibs………… 23.88 Ratio ballast to displacement—per cent. . 57:3 Center buoyancy aft fore end, I. w. 1….. 24.33 Center below l. w. 1…………0.0.000. 1.54 Center gravity 1. w. 1, aft end, l.w.1….. 24.61 Center lateral resistance, ]. w. 1……… 25.5 Center effort, low. 1.2… 0… Area, M, Sis We have taken care also to see that all the elements are in their proper position so that, if the design is truly followed out, she will trim to her 1. w. l., yet as there is many a slip ’twirt wind and water, we would advise that the lead bulb be cast separately and so devise d that it may be shifted fore or aft on the fin to correct and obtain the proper trim. eee ee, 25. cece scecesauawmexinaiaden 43.16 Area, low. le e eee . c eee 477-73 Mast deck to hounds……………… Masthead ………… cece ..0c eee, c 37 5. Topmast heel to cap……………… 30.5 Bowsprit outboard……………….. ‘20.25 BOOM 6s ceawe. Ne cenbenesewtbasacels Gaff oo. eee. 51 33. On the other hand, if she does not sail fairly close, it is better to shift the whole sail plan by moving the mast aft an inch or two; naturally the center of effort will Topsail yard cb eee eee en nents cena eels 33-5″ go with it, hereby correcting the deficiency. Foresail area…….. 329.375 DIMENSIONS, | ee ETC. oa: Topsail area…….. Jib area……..00., 67.25 ee er 45.5 Beam on deck…….. 0.0 cceccu …0 eee Mainsail area……. 1,723.25 ) 14.18 430.5 Total, 2,900 416.875 Sailing length, A. M. Y. C…………. 49.6 Under the American Model Yacht Club rules this model would fit the second amount of time allowance. class, and receive a fair al(IQ) JO L\ AY Vv NVUd Lbal | TIYOC4wON3dGN0aNoiqYsAgWYLOnHOuN]I,sOUVVSK i: | SAINI } Ww40 | YSTNOVHUI4 Model Yacht Gossoon M- J. GORDON KELLY, of Kingston, Ireland, is the designer of Gossoon. The peculiar fin most done away with, that is, if the sails are at all well trimmed. The keel is a recognized thing in the local with which she is fitted, he informs us, has been club, and it has been copied by nearly all the members. copied by many other members of the club to which he It increases the wetted surface a little, but this is counter- belongs, and on all it has proved successful. acted by the straight course the model steers. Mr. Kelly gives some particulars about the Gossoon, which are as follows: Was designed as a hard-weather 10-rater—late Eng- lish rule. She is a rather lumpy-looking boat on paper, but she ought to show up well on a heavy day. placement is a Her dis- trifle high—twenty-three pounds. The principal dimensions are as follows: Li Oa eee eee eee 57-25 inches | 40.00 inches an “Lee, Overhang, forward………… 6.00 inches Overhang, aft…………….. 11.25 inches 3.00 inches The Draught, of hull…………… bulb on the fin keel weighs approximately thirteen and Draught, with fin………….. one-half pounds, the fin itself about four pounds, leaving Beam aie dsvenneas maynewenwes about five and one-half pounds for hull and spars. 11.12 inches The Freeboard, stem…………… sail plan is a very simple one, the area shown being one 4.12 inches Freeboard, taffrail…………. 3.50 inches Freeboard, least…………… 2.50 inches thousand four hundred and fifty-seven square inches, the mainsail being one thousand and thirty-seven inches, and jib four hundred and twenty inches. The form of fin is g.00 inches Sail area, total……………. 1,457.00 inches Sail area, mainsail…………. 1,037.00 inches the same as I have been using on my models for some Sail area, jib……………… years now, and find that the necessity of a rudder is al- Displacement ee ed 420.00 inches 23 pounds cake SAIL PLAN OF GOSSOON Estelle 3 for sailing—not to stand in a store window. To STELLE is a model yacht, sloop-rigged, and built this end the fitting is reduced to the greatest pos- sible simplicity, there being no toy pulleys, skylights, or any such impediments. The mainsail is so arranged by means of a light copper rod running throug h rings on the boom, gaff, luff of sail, and also the mast, that the sail with its boom and gaff may be removed and replaced with a smaller one in a few seconds’ time whenev er heavy weather renders necessary a reduced sail spread. The jib and jib-topsail are attached to the bowspr it and mast by means of hooks, which spring the luff taut the instant they are fastened. The hull is of the “bread -and-butter” construction of seasoned pine plank , and as light as is consistent with strength, the hull without the keel weigh- ay So wee ing only about four and three-quarter pounds. While she shows considerable beam—for the sake of stabili ty— the lines are fined down to the last degree for speed, and she has a good “floor.” The keel shows the exaggerated draught which is per- missible in all model yachts. Leaving off the disproportionate draught her builder is confident that she would do well if enlarged to the classes where we sail in our boats. Her principal dimen- sions are as follows: Dh, | We hictscssstcnenvaneasaesacn« 36 a Draught ………………….. Beam on w. 1……….0…00.0.. inches , 58 inches 4 13. inches §@ 1134 inches F “a8 * aac r . P96,LaserAhvitEMSTpaLEbyYBuAilCtHndTD,esMgODEL S\ ~ ; Model Yacht Satan HE accompanying lines are of the model yacht Da. We Desi ack we ba ws tak www mew alee ac le 414 inches Satan, designed and built in the Spring of 1898 Beam by Sumner M. Haney, a member of the Ameri- Drat@t can Model Yacht Club, of Brooklyn, N. Y., the criticisms of which we leave to our readers. As an amateur, Mr. Haney has succeeded in produc- ing a very fair and neatly constructed model. Her con- struction is as follows: Keel, stem and stern post of pine, sided seven-eighths of an inch; frames of white pine, sided and moulded one-half inch; deck beams the same; planking and deck of Spanish cedar, one-eighth inch …….. cee eee eee eee ee ccsecce mes cnswoamenns ie Displacement 12 inches 11% inches ……..0.0000000 39 lbs. 7 oz. Ballast lead, all on keel………. 31 Ibs. 3 oz. Ratio ballast to displacement….. 79 per cent Mast deck to hounds………… 37.“ Head …… 0. _.Topmast Boom eee eee eee inches 514 inches 0.0… eee eee eee 30 ~—s inches …… 00. c cece eee e ee 4614 inches thick, fastened with No. 1 one-quarter inch brass screws: GAH sv iscs ted cmemerwemmemem memes 33% inches bulwark of three-sixteenths Spanish cedar, capped by oak Topsail rail; spars all of white pine. DIMENSIONS, yard………………. 29% inches Bowsprit, l. w. L. . ETC. Sail aATEWs. 0… cee eee 321% inches ces kee ewe ewes 2,536 sq. inches Racing length…………….. 45 7-10 mete B. mode. YACHT ge SATAN Designed and Built by Sumner M Haney. & ei Omerusa Medel Yacht Clebd. $- Peers a e- eprere Seale a. MODEL YACHT by American J Model Yaeht Club. Sumner M. Haney. Designed and Built SATAN _ mma ~ 4 = 2 Cee © © © ee g PSS eas j % ia hn 4V07e Va REO 4, SAVY a EZ Se le nee em og The Model Racing Schooner Erin O where you may you will always hear it expressed result I present to you. afloat than a schooner. beam and draught, with moderate displacement. In the good old days our fathers loved the two-stickers, and perhaps better sport was never seen than when these craft constituted our big racing classes chiefly. The lofty masts and the clouds of canvas, we can picture the scene of a few of these two- stickers making for home on a blustery day. We have never seen it in reality—we youngsters—but many an evening have we sat by our fireside and listened to the thrilling set to work and drafted a 15-rating model schooner. that there is not a more graceful looking vessel experiences of our fathers—or mayhap our uncles—who sailed on such vessels as Egeria, Dauntless, Cambria, America, etc. While our cutters and sloops have become antiquated, and, dare | say, ugly, the famous old schooners look today as graceful and as pictur- esque as they did in their early years, and though single- stickers have supplanted them in the racing lists, they still bear the reputation of being the handiest vessels afloat. The schooner rig is as pretty on a model yacht as a real one, and it is with much regret that I see it is not oftener preferred to the cutter or sloop rigs. It is then with pleasure that I give the design of a racing schoone r of 15-rating. I have designed about thirty models in my The lines show a model of good paper alone. I have tried my hand with the 1730-rule model, which brings into existence a narrow, flat-side d thing, with a little success. I have done better under the . weight rule (2 Ibs. displacement to a ton), and have tor beauty, though much for speed. I have taken some trouble in though moulding the hull, and, are a trifle full for’ard. though a sharp a true breeze sneered at. entrance pays lines like area 2,052 square inches. would 1 have found, however, that, this in fluky weather, with schooner’s are not to be The displacement ts 21.8 lbs., and the sail be greatly Here in Great Britain this area in excess to the weight, but in the United States I surmise it to be different—just the right thing. The hull, with deck, would weigh about 7 |bs., the sails and spars 1 lb., and the weight on the keel wouid be 13.60 Ibs. The dimensions are as follows: Length 0. a… .. 0. eee eee 60.75 inches Length l. wo 1. . 2… eee 43-00 inches BEB ce iwisnienensansnsemenwre Draught …………..0.000000. 12.25 inches 10.75 inches 23.72 inches Center buoyancy……………. 22.56 inches The sail areas are: Forestay sail (big)……. 517. square inches Forestay sail (small)….. 233 square inches Foresail 32014 square inches …………0.0.., Foretopsail tule. Mainsail As I had some spare time to myself a short time ago, I the model has been designed for moderate waters, the water lines created a few good boats under the late English Y. R. A. But I have been confined, much against my will, to draw the sail plan of either a sloop or a cutter always. The sheer plan looks rather angular, but I have sacrificed little time. Half of them are alive and hearty, a quarter were begun and never finished, and the rest still remain on The …………, 88 square inches ……………, 87414 square inches Maintopsail (jackyard)… 252 square inches Maintopsail (jibheaded)… 144 square inches Sait Plan «+ e Moore Yacut ER | N ! 5 ———_| SAIL PLAN OF SCHOONER ERIN dSANI—TJO-YAN4O- H–D-S NIUd ee Design for Model Yacht Emma T be eligible for the 52-foot class per I. I, Y. R. HE Emma, if built up one foot to the inch, would eS Association. DIMENSIONS, ETC. ; EEE SE RSS Displacement «.00ce.es eneunems « 21.85 pounds APPROXIMATE CALCULATIONS Weight of ballast…………… 13.11 pounds C. L. R. aft stem head………. 34.2 inches G Beatestem nad 3175 ees BOA einsawsenisvesmtasmusnew 11.25 inches …………ceeeeee eee 9.25 inches Center tiort tft. ss.0s0+wsnne. 34-4 inches Least freeboard……………. 2.87 inches Area M.S… res eneees Draught Sailing length, A.M. Y.C…….. 44.4 inches Area |. W. dics ss wines .. 240. square inches 38.75 square inches Sail areas.cvsswscaieiaae 2,345. square inches SAIL PLAN OF EMMA S