Miniature Boat Building by Albert C. Leitch – 1928

MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING The Construction of Working Models of Racing, Sail and Power Boats A CONCISE AND COMPLETE PRACTICAL TREATISE FOR THE AMATEUR AND PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC GIVING SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS IN SIMPLE LANGUAGE ON THE VARIOUS PROCESSES AND OPERATIONS INVOLVED IN BUILDING MODEL RACING, SAIL AND POWER BOATS AND POWER PLANTS BY ALBERT C, LEITCH Naval Architect, Author of “Motor Boats and Boat Motors” Illustrated by a series of five hundred progressive illustrations showing clearly every step of the construction of the boats described NEW YORK THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 2 WEST 45TH STREET 1928 Copyright, 1928, by Tue Norman W. Hentey Pusuisninc Company Printed in United States of America PREFACE In the preparation of this book, I have attempted, by every means possible to make it the most authentic work of its kind ever offered to the public. In brief, it is a treatise on the construction of properly designed working models of racing boats, adapted as far as practicable from the actual, full size boats. The little craft, the designs of which will be found within these covers, are based upon the same principles that govern the design of full sized power and sailing yachts, yet I have tried my best to so word each chapter that it will be understandable to the novice and at the same time, acceptable to the more skilled. I have, wherever possible, reduced the difficult nautical terms to the simplest lay language which, I hope, will make it interesting to “son,” “dad” and the “youngold-man.” The boats, when completed, will look and act like real ones because they are practically and scientifically correct for the particular work they are to do. Without realizing it, the builder of one of these models will be forming for himself, at the same time, a firm foundation in the governing principles of naval architecture. And now, before we take up the burden of the book, I want to take this brief opportunity to thank those who have so cheerfully aided me in compiling the contents Vv PREFACE which follow. To these men, who have spent most of their lives in yacht design, marine engineering and model making, I dedicate this work, in the hope that it may, at least in part, repay them for their assistance. Albert C. Leitch, Naval Architect. vi CONTENTS CHAPTER Le Il. PAGE Mopet Maxine . Move, Yacur DrsIGN AND SUGGESTIONS SAILING AND Sain MAKING . iB PAINTING AND FINISHING IV. Masts AND SpaRS . . . Toots anD Work BENCH VI. VII. VIL 1D. XI. FOR 18 38 . 47 – …….-. DEFINITIONS AND Nautica, TERMS… . 52 60 Kwots AND SpLices in Ropes 69 Waticu Boat SHatt [ Buitp? . 79 Forty-Eicut-Incn Racine HypropLane—SeEMI Brock Tyre 82 Turrty-Six-IncnH Brock TyPr 97 Ractnc Hyproprane—Semri Tuirty-Srx-Incu Ractnc HypropLtane— FraMep TYPE 105 XII. Turrty-IncH Power Boat—Semi Biock Type 126 XIII. Twenty-Four-Inco Power Boat—Semi Brock TYPE 131 XIV. Forry-Incu Framep anp PLaNnKED TyPE Power Boat ~ 141 Twenty-Incw V Type Cat Boat . 148 Twenty-Ereut-Incu Star Ciass 157 Turrty-Incu Stoop Marconi Riccep . 169 XV. XVI. XVI. XVIII. Tuirty-Srx-IncH ING XIX, Stoop anD SCHOONER—RaAc- . 180 Power Piant Desicn . 188 Power Boat MAintENANCE AND OPERATION . 230 vii INTRODUCTION Tr is the object of this book to explain concisely the construction and operation of sail and power driven racing yachts and through a careful reading of these pages it will be possible for the beginner to build the boat of his choice, which, when completed, will have the value and appearance of a professional job, The construction methods have been developed by experts who have made model making their life work, and the same painstaking mathematical calculations have been made in the designs of these little boats as is customary with large ones, The design of a successful racing yacht, sail or power, involves the two highest and most technical sciences known; naval architecture and marine engineering. Calculations are made before the boats are built which determine most accurately every characteristic. It is ascertained, in advance, just how they will behave under different loading or wind conditions; how much power they will require to drive them at a given speed; just how far over a racing sail model will lean with a wind of a certain volocity, etc. You have often seen a toy sail boat capsize with a slight puff of wind, but such a calamity is scarcely ever heard of in the case of a properly designed sail boat because the designer has determined, by calculation in advance, the proper ratio between the sail area, boat displacement and keel weight. Each type of boat in this book has been built and 1x INTRODUCTION tested and has passed rigid and critical inspections by keen-minded authorities. The reader is given a concise but complete treatise on amateur marine model making in general, and the specific construction of numerous miniature racing sailing yachts, and also steam, electric and spring motor driven power boats. Complete draw- ings and specifications giving full instructions of each stage in sequence, from the assembly of the rough material to the completed boat; together with instructions for sailing and operating. The simplified methods of construction are those invented and perfected by H. E. Boucher, Naval Architect and Mechanical Engineer, president and founder of Boucher, Inc., Madison Avenue, New York City, the recognized leading marine model makers of the country. Mr. George Ratsey, of Ratsey and Lapthorn, Incorporated, New York and London, makers of sails for racing yachts of international reputation, has supplied the data from which the sails are made. Mr. Ratsey is also an enthusiastic and successful racing skipper. The construction of these boats represents the highest type of the model makers’ art, and would ordinarily be difficult for the amateur to build but for the fact that the author was given permission to study the Boucher simplified construction methods. Through this book you will receive the same instructions that are given to apprentices in marine model making in the shops of Mr. Boucher’s company. One cannot take the design of any successful large racing yacht and make a scale reduction of it expecti ng to produce a successful miniature sailing yacht because of the law of relativity in mechanics. This translated into understandable language is as follows: x INTRODUCTION Sails have two dimensions, length and breadth; we speak of them in terms of square feet or square inches. Hulls and lead keels have three dimensions, length, breadth and depth; we speak of them in terms of cubical contents. Consequently if we attempt to reduce both sails and hulls in an exact scale reduction we are in reality reducing the sails by the square (which is correct) but the hull by the cube (which is one power too much). This gives a boat with too much sail for the size of the hull and lead keel, and the result is a boat that will not stand up properly in the water. What is necessary is to increase the amount of lead in proportion and then we must increase the size of the hull in order to support the increased weight of lead. In reality a complete new calculation is made to determine the size of the hull and lead to balance the scale reduction of the sails. The use of tools is learned in making a box, but after the box is completed, the interest ceases. Not so with a boat, several boats of the same class may be raced and naturally the best boat and skipper will win. But the boat that does not win at first may be altered slightly to improve her speed or sailing qualities, thus increasing and prolonging the interest. Model races are frequently held on the lakes of many city parks and these races are sometimes international affairs which are usually held under the auspices of the National Model Yacht Racing Association. The saucy racing craft shown in this book (sailing models) are fitted with automatic steering arrangements, described in detail later, by which the steering gear may be so set as to cause the boat to tack back and forth against a head wind and nearly strike at a given point XI INTRODUCTION on the far side of the lake, some half mile or so away, without having been touched by the skipper, who usually follows in a light rowing skiff. In addition to the full description and cuts which make clear every detail of each boat, one will find the name of the firm where each and every part and fitting may be obtained either partly or completely shaped. In the case of the power plants and boat fittings, no part will be indicated which is not manufactured regularly. One may obtain the parts either in rough cast- ings, finished castings or completely assembled units. Thus there is no excuse for a builder, no matter how inexperienced he is, for not turning out a good boat. The proper nautical terms have been used throughout the book and yet it will be possible for the layman to “hoist it aboard” because in the chapter “Definitions and Nautical Terms” every word not commonly used in lay language has been completely defined. The Author. April, 1928. xii MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING CHAPTER I MODEL MAKING Manual training, taught in nearly every school in the country, has enabled the boy who wants to make something, to gratify his wish. A real boy usually wants to make something which will go, and the more it looks and acts like its full-sized prototype, the more his interest is aroused. Model classes. making is divided into many different Some models are made of objects in real life, reduced in exact proportions, and are used for educa- tional and demonstrating purposes, advertising, or for recollections and associations. Models are also frequently made to demonstrate a principle or for experimental purposes, before the full-sized structure or object is undertaken. Other models simply represent the object as it appears from the outside, the interior being solid and unfinished. The most interesting of all models are working models and it is of this type that we are about to learn. Scale models are those which represent an actual reproduction in miniature of the real object. For instance, a model made on a scale of one inch to the foot, means that every inch of the model measures one foot on the original object. the size of the object. The model is one-twelfth A quarter inch scale model is one forty-eighth the size of the object, and so on. Every part is made accurately to scale. [1] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING It.is well for a man to have a hobby, for a hobby takes the mind from hum-drum, everyday life and permits complete relaxation. A story is told of a man, his name matters not, who came home nights and worried about his business to the extent that he was bordering on nervous prostration. A long vacation, a trip and a lot of other things that cost money, were suggested, but somehow he did none of them; instead he found a hobby and now he spends many He was of his spare evenings making models. and developed he skill the at amazed in a short time the excellent work he turned out. His threatened breakdown is quite forgotten and he is himself once again. You may ask why this man did not build something useful and here is the reason. John Ruskin, in 1870, observed some athletes training, and suggested that they be put to work on something productive, but this was a complete failure—the fascination was gone when they undertook regular work. And so it is with a hobby, it must be something in which there is pleasure. We doit because we want to and because we like it. Model making had its origin many years ago, before the time of our present day naval architect. Master shipwrights, as they were then called, were responsible for the grace and power of the former “monarchs of the sea.” For every vessel which was built, a scale model, perfect in every detail, was made. From these models the ship was built. In those days, models took the place of the plans which our present day naval architects develop. [2] MODEL MAKING Most of these models, in fact nearly all of the models of famous old ships made abroad, may be found in the museums of the countries in which they were originally built. These models are, of course, not working models, but were used primarily for con- struction purposes. After the vessel was completed they were kept as records. Later on, when the art of drafting was developed and naval architects came into being, plans, in many cases, took the place of models, but to this day one of the first things that is done in a scientifically built ship, after the contract lines are developed, is to prepare a model, usually about 15 or 20 feet long, of the entire hull. The model is weighted until it is down to the proper designed draft of the vessel it represents, and is then towed through the water by a delicately arranged device that registers the pull to the smallest fraction of an ounce. different speeds. Tests are made at This is done in an experimental model basin, to ascertain the exact amount of horse power necessary to drive the full size vessel at a given speed. The waves which are thrown off by the model are studied and frequently these tests suggest changes in the underwater form to improve the speed or sail- ing qualities. At an early stage in the design of steel vessels, half models are made of the shape of the outer hull. Steel plating diagrams are laid out on these models in order that the exact size and shape of the plates may be ordered from the mill. This, of course, reduces waste. Connections and features of the vessel difficult to [3] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING depict in drawings frequently require a model to clearly indicate them. Frequently, models are made of proposed ships in order that stockholders of companies may see exactly the type of ship contemplated. The government makes models of ships of a proposed new type in order that Congress may see them before appropriat- ing the money for their construction. These models are held, and they form interesting exhibits from which anyone, not skilled in such matters, may follow the development of a navy or a merchant fleet. The U. S. Navy exhibit of models forms one of the most interesting displays of its kind. Many ship models are perfect in every detail and are made accurately to scale. A single model will sometimes cost as much as $10,000. The New York Yacht Club has a model collection valued at $250,000 and a detailed drawing of every model is filed in a fireproof safe-deposit vault. The collection is insured for the fullamount. In case the models are destroyed from any cause whatever, they could thus be replaced by working from these plans. This collection contains many models of great historical interest. Usually a working model is made of every invention and it is used by the inventor for demonstration purposes and in developing and perfecting it. Frequently an inventor has only the idea and it is necessary for the expert model maker to develop the idea until it works. Professional model makers, or those directing their activities, must be mechanical engineers, civil engineers and naval architects, in order to meet the exacting demands of their clients. There is no end to the field of activities of a pro[4] MODEL MAKING fessional model maker; and his work is no child’s play. It is a steady and lucrative profession, and one interested enough in the subject to become proficient by reason of practice, need never want for employment. The principal object of this book is to deal with the construction and operation for working models of sail and power boats which, at full size, range from twenty to one hundred feet in length. The manner of determining the underwater body and the develop- ment of the lines though is similar for either the model or full-sized craft. Naturally, the first thing to be determined after the approximate length of the craft is decided upon, is the shape of the underwater body. This is frequently done by shaping a model by eye, based on past experience, The model is then cut into sections in order to transfer these lines to paper from which full-sized templates can be made. The lines of a vessel appear complicated to the novice and mean practically nothing. They are apparently a lot of curved and twisted lines piled one upon the other. In reality, these lines represent one of the highest forms of engineering and they show with the utmost accuracy the form of a vessel. Fig. 1* shows such a set of lines, in this case a simple boat, the views marked A, B, C, (Plate 1) are called the sheer, half-breadth and the body plans respectively. The sheer plan is a profile or side view of the form of the boat. The half-breadth drawing is a plan view, or as the boat would appear looking directly down on the top of it. The body plan is a view look* Folding plate in pocket. [5] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING | Sase Line Fie. 4. 5 T 5 ogee Frame Lines 4 3 . : 2 t : .. Baseline rs 6. { \ L Sheer Lige : 3. water Line: Ww, Yemen 0.2. |: MODEL MAKING ing end-on, usually bow-on in one half, and stern-on in the other. The vertical lines on the sheer plan are The horizontal lines are frame or station lines. water lines. The curved lines are section or buttock lines. The lines on the healf-breadth view are as follows: The curved lines are water lines, the straight fore and aft lines are section or buttock lines and the straight transverse lines are frame or station lines. The lines on the body plan are as follows: The horizontal are water lines, the curved lines are frame or station lines and the vertical lines are section or buttock lines. ; Now picture the model of a boat having the same profile and plan view and bow view as the lines drawn above. Sucha model would appear as Fig. 2, and the profile or plain silhouette of this boat would appear as in Fig. 3. If we draw vertical lines, as in Fig. 4, and number them from forward to aft as shown, these lines will correspond to the frame or station lines of Fig. 1-A. Suppose we saw the boat completely through at each one of these station or frame lines, Figs. 5 and 5-A, like cutting slices of bread from a pointed Vienna loaf. If we place each slice commencing with Number 1, flat on a piece of paper to the right of the view of the profile, the lowest point of the keel exactly on the base-line and a vertical center line to the right of the profile, and trace around the slice with a pencil, for convenience just marking the half to the right of the center line, and we do this with each successive slice back as far as frame No. 3, we then have a set of frame lines for the fore-body of the boat. This is similar to the right hand side [7] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Sheer = \ } T | Neo <2 ao L, 4 \ Whe b> wen. 7 | 5 7 Bose Live ——— eee \ ok Fig. 1A. Base bige: [8] a ca A MODEL MAKING of the body plan of Fig. 1-C. If we did likewise for the frames from No. 4 aft, but traced this half of them at the left side only, we would have all the curved lines of the body plan. Let us suppose the model is put together again and we then mark a set of longitudinal lines on the profile as in Fig. 6. These would be water lines. If we sawed the boat com- pletely through lengthwise on each of these lines, Figs. 7 and 7-A (the latter figure is a slice, or lift, removed), just like one would cut long lengthwise horizontal slices from a Vienna loaf of bread, and lifted each slice off one at a time, placing them in their proper locations with respect to the fore and aft center line and also the frame lines and then traced with a pencil around their entire margin, we would produce a set of water lines, half-breadths. These would be similar to the curved lines shown in the ha‘f-breadth plan of Fig. 1-B. Then if we put the model together again and this time we mark a series of fore and aft lines on the top of the model as in Fig. 8, and saw down through each of these, each cut being parallel to the vertical and fore and aft center line of the boat and one cut the center line itself which divides the boat in halves, and laid one half aside, the side view of the middle cut corresponds to the profile of the boat, (the outline of the sheer plan), and the next cut outboard from the center line would correspond to the No. 1 buttock or section line in the sheer plan and so on for each of the several section lines of the model. If we take all these last slices and place them back in their original positions and then look at the boat bow-on, each of these cuts will present a vertical line. These are the vertical lines [9] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING shown in the body plan, Fig. 1, numbered 1-2-3, etc. If we turn the boat top-side up, bow to right, and look down on it, we see a number of parallel longitudinal lines. Those are the straight fore and aft lines, (section lines), seen on the half-breadth plan. If we had put the horizontal water line cuts all back in their proper locations before we put the boat into shape again, and had viewed it from the bow we would have seen a series of horizontal parallel lines or cuts similar to the water lines of the body plan, Fig. 1-C. The lines of a big boat may appear more compli- cated but that is just because there are a great many more of each type of line, in order that the ship may be more accurately faired, but do not be confused, the principle is the same. In making up a solid or cut out model, the water lines represent the lifts and when glued up before being shaped, look like Fig. 9 and Fig. 9-A. When the steps are shaped and faired the model takes its true form as indicated in dotted lines, Fig. 10-A. One more point about the set of lines. Take section line 3 on the profile plan, Fig. 1-A. Notice the point where it crosses frame or station line 4; measure this height above the base-line, mark it on a strip of paper. Now, if you turn to the body plan, Fig. 1-C, and hold these two spots on section line No. 3, the bottom point on the base-line, you will see that the top point exactly touches where frame line 4 crosses it. Trace the intersection of any of the lines on any of the views and then turn to any one ef the other views and you will see the spots correspond in height or half-breadth, as the case may be. [10] MODEL MAKING Now that we know something about boat lines, sheer, half-breadth and body plans and how the water lines represent horizontal slices which may be cut parallel to the floating line of the boat, and from for- ward to aft, and usually at equal distance apart, we know the frame lines represent transverse slices, cut at right angles to the fore and aft center line of the boat. In boat model making we use the water lines and the frame lines almost exclusively. Usually the water lines represent the lifts and the frame lines are used for making templates to check the amount of cutting and trimming that should be done in order to fair up the model when the square edges are being cut from the lifts. Assume that you desire to build a block model from a set of lines you had developed or obtained, the procedure would be as follows: You would first decide how many lifts you wished to make, naturally the greater the number of lifts, the more accurately the lines may be followed but this also means considerably more work. In most cases lifts one inch thick suffice, and frequently, in toy models such as model sailing boats, etc., two or three wider lifts suffice, providing there are four or five frame templates from the body plan to check the shape. For the purpose of illustrating a specific case, we will proceed to transfer the lines of Fig. 1 to a block model, We will assume 6 lifts or water lines and 8 transverse templates or frame lines. We will say the water lines are spaced 1 in. apart and the frame sta- tions 6 in. and 3 in. apart. The complete model will be 42 in. long by 7 in. wide and 6 in. deep, consequently one must have 6 clear grained, well seasoned, kiln- [11] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING dried, pattern-makers’, white-pine boards 1 in. thick, each 44 in. long by 74 in. wide, smoothly dressed on both sides. Draw a fore and aft center line with a sharp pencil, on each lift on the center of the 74 in. face and lay out the frame stations at the proper spacing and at right angles to the fore and aft center line on each lift. On the frame stations, spot the half width of the water lines on each lift exactly as they Fic. 10. é; Jee i appear on the half-breadth plan, Fig. 1-B*, and connect these spots with a spline and pencil. The spline is a flexible wood strip, planed smooth, and about threesixteenths of an inch square at its largest point, (the center), tapering to about one-sixteenth of an inch at the ends. Naval architects use these splines in con- nection with ship weights which hold the splines in place, to draw in water lines, sheer lines or in fact any kind of a curved line. I do not suppose you will * Folding plate in pocket. [12] MODEL MAKING have any ship weights and so after you place the edge of the spline on a point, drive a pin slightly into the material to hold the spline in shape. See Fig. 11. After each of the several lifts has had its particular water line transferred to it, the wood should be cut out neatly, nearly to the line, with a compass saw and then planed smooth to the line. After each lift has been cut and placed one upon the other in proper place with respect to frame stations, and each fore and aft center line directly above the other as Figs. 10 and 10-A, the next thing is to hold them there in one fixed mass. This is done by glueing with water-proof glue and dowels. If the boat is going to sail or be power driven we want it light, consequently the inside is usually hollowed out. Usually before the lifts are glued up permanently, they are cut out, as indicated in Fig. 11, with a compass or scroll saw. They may be hollowed further when the entire model is glued up. To make a good glue joint is an important thing. We recommend for water-proof work Casine Glue, sometimes called “Stickall.” This comes in a white powdered form similar in appearance to malted milk. It should be mixed in cold water to the consistency of fairly thick cream. It must be mixed thoroughly in a small coffee cup, with a wooden paddle, until all of the lumps have disappeared. It should then be left to stand for fifteen minutes and finally stirred a little more. This glue must be made fresh each time and should not stand for more than one hour. Therefore make it in small quantities. In gluing lifts, it is best for the beginner to glue one at a time and let the glue harden before starting an- [13] e MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING other. Spread a thin sheet of glue on each of the two faying surfaces of the lifts, rub it into the pores of the wood with the wooden paddle and then spread another thin layer and quickly place the surfaces to be glued together and clamp them securely. Remem- ber the more pressure you apply, not up to the point of crushing the wood, the better joint you will have. Allow it to remain in the clamp for at least 8 hours. The same procedure is followed on the other lifts. In gluing up, large “C” clamps may be used, or joiners’ wooden screw clamps. In fact any form of clamp where considerable direct pressure may be had, will do the work. If you use “C” clamps, place a piece of wood between the work and the clamp to prevent the latter from denting the lift. Remember, in all kinds of gluing, no matter what kind of glue is used, the joints hold best when an even amount of glue has been applied completely over the entire faying surface. They should be clamped to- gether with enough pressure to force the glue into the pores of the wood and the surplus out at the sides. Use a sufficient number of clamps. When timber is first cut it is full of sap and moisture; well seasoned wood is kept for a considerable time in storage to allow some of the moisture to be eliminated. During this process the wood shrinks and sometimes cracks. Pattern-makers’ kiln-dried, white- pine is wood that has been allowed to naturally season for a long time and is then sawed into boards and baked at a fairly high temperature in a dry, heated compartment. This removes the last vestiges of moisture. The best part of the wood is then cut out and the patterns or models made from it. al Articles MODEL MAKING made from this wood do not shrink or crack, but just as soon as they are completed they should be given some sort of a preservative or priming coat to keep the moisture out. This wood is more expensive than common wood, but it is the proper kind to use in connection with model making. This wood is always specified by professionals. Three-ply birch veneer is mentioned in the construction of some of the models and where arrange- ments have been made with firms to supply semishaped parts, the water-proof variety has been specified. This veneer is glued up with Casine Glue. The process is as follows: Three thin layers of wood are employed, the top and bottom layer have the grain running leigthwise, and the middle layer has its grain running crosswise. This material is glued in hydraulic presses and when finished, will not split or twist, although it is only three-sixteenths of an inch thick. It is hard, and difficult to cut with anything The best way to cut a veneer board is to deeply score it on both sides with a sharp but the sharpest tools. knife, using a ruler to make a straight cut, then hold it over the edge of a board and give it a quick push. A curved cut out, or a curved outside cut must be made with a sharp, fine toothed scroll saw, nearly up to the line and then planed or sandpapered down. One must be careful in using a plane because it is apt to fray the outer surface of the veneer. To steam bend this veneer to any desired shape, use a clean paint brush and thoroughly wet the veneer on the outside of the curve and iron the inside of the same with the round edge of an iron heated just [15] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING enough not to burn the wood. By repeated wetting and ironing the veneer may be bent to fit over any curved surface of a boat’s frame, the theory of course being that the hot iron draws one side and the water expands the other. Keep up the ironing process until the wet side is completely dry, then most of the curve will remain in the sheet, at least long enough to allow a builder to secure it in place to the frame. Frames, clamps and chines are usually steam bent, in amateur work, by boiling the stock for fifteen or twenty minutes in a long shallow pan or a deep boiler, and then when they are still hot and steaming, by bending them over a form of the desired curve and then allowing them to completely dry. In professional work these parts are usually given a slightly greater curve than required, because in time they lose a little of the set, unless immediately worked into the boat and held in place with the other members. In bradding or nailing, do not drive so many fastenings that you split the wood and refrain from driving a lot of fastenings close together and in the same line with the grain of the wood. Stagger them slightly. It is always well to drill a hole (pilot hole) with a drill somewhat smaller than the fastening, completely through the first piece to be joined and slightly into the other member so there will be no tendency to split the material. Before driving a screw, drill a pilot hole a little smaller than the diameter of the screw and then use a countersink bitt for boring the countersink for the screw head to fit it. Put a small quantity of soap on the screw and it will drive home much more easily and the countersink head will pull down, leaving a flush job. [ 16 ] MODEL MAKING Always, before gluing or securing anything in place, fit it well and clamp it temporarily. If it fits perfectly, then drill several small holes and drive several brads part way in. When removing the work to apply the glue, leave the brad points sticking through the work. These will serve as guides for quickly locating the proper position of the piece. This is valuable when you are in a hurry to clamp up for gluing and for permanent holding. Tf one follows the practice of using small brads or screws and takes the precautions outlined of drilling guide and pilot holes, the danger of splitting a piece on which considerable labor has already been expended, will be eliminated. Care should also be taken in glueing, to make sure that the glue is smooth and free from flakes or other hard particles that might prevent perfect adhesion of the pieces to be joined together. [17] CHAPTER II MODEL YACHT DESIGN AND SUGGESTIONS SAILING AND SAIL MAKING FOR The fundamentals of model yacht design are a complex subject and one that would fill a good size book. It is the purpose of this chapter to deal with the subject in lay language and only to the extent of giving the amateur miniature yachtsman a sufficient knowledge to enable him to prepare a design that will step along like a regular boat and not turn turtle or otherwise disgrace him, The writer is not conducting a class in naval architecture in which problems of stability, displacement, righting arms, moments and the mathematics per- taining thereto are to be treated upon, but simply citing some of the elementary problems that will tend to help the amateur. The displacement of a boat is the quantity of water that is pushes aside or displaces when at rest.. You will better understand it this way. A boat, when placed in water, sinks to a certain depth and the remainder floats above the water. If it were possible to freeze the water around the boat and then lift the boat out, you would find the exact shape of the boat’s underbody in the ice; now if you filled the cavity in the ice with water just level at the top, and then poured this water out and weighed it, you would find it tipped the scale at exactly the same weight as the [18] MODEL YACHT DESIGN boat at the time it was placed in the water. Hence, a boat or any floating body displaces its own weight. For this reason a narrow, sharp boat sinks deeper in the water than a somewhat broader one of the same weight. A fairly shallow draft boat frequently has less of its surface exposed in the water, consequently there is less skin friction and the boat is faster. Experience and calculation of course is necessary to determine a happy compromise between a boat that is too broad and flat and one that is too sharp and narrow. An absolutely perfect compromise, in order to obtain an ideal condition, can only be had by development and actual test. A log of wood tows through the water best with its large end first. It was this knowledge that made our original Yankee clipper ships so fast. A solid log twelve inches in diameter and thirty feet long tows harder than the same size log when it has been hollowed out and the ends plugged to keep the water out. There are two reasons for this, the solid log weighs more and sinks deeper, causing more of its surface to be exposed to the water. There isa certain amount of resistance in pulling an object through the air and a correspondingly greater resistance in pulling the same body through the water. This is called skin friction or resistance. Boats are made hollow in order to give them more room inside and to make them lighter. The ship’s underbody is so shaped as to minimize skin friction and cause the least amount of water disturbances. The latter are a source of lost power or effort. Sailing boats, particularly racing craft, must be light, fairly broad and shallow, with a weighted keel, [19] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING or pendulum, down low to give them stability and to compensate for the enormous amount of sails they carry in order to keep them from capsizing in the wind. Therefore the center of gravity of a boat must be below the line of flotation in order to keep her from turning over. This is done by making the upper portion of the hull as light as possible and attaching a fin keel and weight to the under portion. In a power boat the designer needs only to figure on the boat and machinery weights, but in a sailboat there must be an extra margin of weight below the line of flotation to balance the pressure of wind upon the sails. This is the reason for the fin keel with the lead bulb at the bottom. If you took a thin board, say two feet long, six inches wide and 4 in. thick, and balanced it upon a knife edge as indicated in Fig. 12, and placed weights on the left of the knife edge to represent the pressure of wind on the sails, the knife edge representing the line of flotation of the boat, the portion of the board to the right of the knife edge representing the part of the boat in the water, you would find it necessary to place a certain amount of weight near the extreme right hand edge of the board to balance it on the knife edge. In a boat you would add a little more than just enough to balance the right hand weights to be safe. This excess is called the “righting arm” or the force that tends to keep the boat in an upright position against the pressure of the wind on the sails. A sailboat must have a keel or centerboard. These give her “lateral resistance” and the pressure of the wind on the sails acting against the keel or centerboard cause the boat to run ahead through the water [20] MODEL YACHT DESIGN PREssune eroviapien enue FIG1e: E LA A ¢ UPPER PORTION OF LpSAU8 LS ORT KNIFE REPRESENTING LINE y Yjy VA a (a « @F FLOTATION OF Bont y j Le = fon (0) c.£. TOO FAR FORD. BORAT WOULD FALL OFF CE. TOO FAR AFT, SORT | WOULD HEAD INTO WIND (NcorRecT) y ‘ eewer (NcorReet) no y Binge & i pa Se ff ~. (Gorneer) Se SE oS See SS get [21] ¢.£. SUCHTLY FORD. oF CENTER OF LATERAL R neeee Se (pgae 2S eee eer MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING and not slide sideways. It will be seen from this that the area and shape of the sails must be such that the boat will be balanced against the pressure of the water on the lee side of the hull. In a properly designed sailboat the center of gravity of all the sails should be slightly forward of the center of gravity of the under water hull. If you cut a piece of cardboard the exact shape of the profile or silhouette of the under water hull and balance it horizontally on a pin point the spot on which it balances is the center of gravity or, as it is termed, the center of lateral resistance of the hull, Likewise if you make a cut-out in cardboard of your total sail area, main-sail and jibs combined, and balance it in the same manner, you will find the combined center of gravity of the sails or, as it is called, the center of effort of the sails. Fig. 13 is incorrect; this boat would fall off the wind as the center of effort is too far forward. Fig. 14 is incorrect for this boat would head into the wind as the center of effort is too far aft. Fig. 15 is correct; the center of effort is slightly forward of the center of lateral resistance. The boat is properly designed and would have a slight tendency to come up into the wind. Power speed boat hulls differ from sailing hulls to the extent that the former usually have hard bilges and comparatively flat bottoms, while the latter have round bilges and soft round lines. The reason for this is that sailboats scarcely ever sail without a list, they are heeled over considerably by the wind and they must present a fair, easy run, and a good entering section at each different angle of list. While a [22] MODEL YACHT. DESIGN power boat, after she attains her maximum speed, remains on practically the same water line. The ratio of length to beam of the average miniature power speed boat of today is about 4to 1. That is a boat of 36 in. in length would be about 9 in. wide. Due to the considerable amount of machinery carried in speed boats the hulls must be designed as light Hence the as possible consistent with strength. framed up type or the well dug out block type with veneer sides. The wetted surface of a racing power boat is considerably less when at speed than when in a static condition. This is what is called planing. Their powerful motors actually drive the boat up out of the water. The sharp V-bottom forward gradually flattening toward the stern, tends to climb up out of the water and run on the surface until the keel is uncovered for at least one-third of the length. Naturally this reduced wetted surface with the resulting reduction in skin friction is what gives this type of boat its enormous increase of speed over the old displacement boat that was narrow and sharp but did not rise when at speed. The principal weights of the present day speed boats are placed aft of amidships in order to assist the lifting of the bow. What actually happens when speed boats are running their best is as follows:—The sharp V-section of the boat at about one-third the length from the bow cleaves the water, when the boat is lifted to this point, and breaks it up into little globules of water and air mixed, and the remaining two-thirds of the boat remaining in the water rolls along over this mass in a manner similar to a board on which one might [23 ] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING stand after the board was placed on a number of marbles. The friction that would ordinarily hold the board, if laid flat with all of its surface touching, would be thus largely removed. This is the type of hard bilge, V-bottom, gradually flattening aft, that has been given to the speed boats mentioned in this book. There must be no quick lumpy changes. The bow must be rather full and well rounded, with easy, graceful bilges for sailing boats and hard bilges for power speed boats. The amount of lead bulb to provide on a sailboat and the distance below water to place it in combination with a known sail spread is a matter of calculation. Naturally a designer does not want to use any more lead than necessary because that would be carrying unnecessary weight and he does not want to place it down too deep because that would increase the draft of the boat and probably have a bad effect on its steering and maneuvering qualities. The depth and weight of bulb keels of these sailboats have been so thoroughly calculated and tested that it is not believed any change can be made to improve them. The exact amount of lead and the exact shape which actual test has indicated to be correct, is specified on all the boats shown in this book. The subject of model sail design and model sailing, it is believed, will be best understood by a description of the development as well as that of the shape and proportion of sails. Running before the wind, or in the direction of the wind, appears to be the simplest form of sailing. Any object erected above the top-side deck, in which the wind may catch, will accomplish this result. [24] Obvi- MODEL YACHT DESIGN ously, the lighter the object, the larger it may be in order to catch the maximum amount of wind, and at the same time it may be more easily adjusted in order to sail in directions other than that in which the wind is blowing. The simplest form of conventional home-made boat and sail is a flat board pointed at one end, into which one or more sticks or masts have been driven and upon which have been mounted sheets of writing paper for sails as indicated in Fig. 16. : This saucy ship of our first creation goes quite well with the wind. But try and sail her into the wind or at right angles to the same. The boat refuses to go ahead, and simply slides sideways or blows backward. When man first learned to sail he could only navigate in the direction of the wind, but he soon learned to place a plank on edge in the water at the side of his boat to prevent the craft from sliding sideways when the sails were trimmed at any angle other than at right angles to the direction from which the wind was blowing. This was done in order to sail in a direction other than with the wind. The board was finally called a “lee-board” and is used to this day on canoes and certain other types of boats. If we take a flat-bottom, shallow-draft boat and mount a great high mast and sail on it, and place it in the water so the wind hits the sails sidewise, and the sails are trimmed any number of degrees off center, in a fore and aft rigged boat, there must be something extending down into the water from the bot- tom of the boat to resist the side push of the wind on the sails. This object should cause as little fric- [25] [26] MODEL YACHT DESIGN tion as possible and be heavier at the bottom than at the top. ‘Water is denser than air, consequently the protru- sion need not be as great in area as the sails in order to resist the wind pressure to the correct degree. On can readily follow the different stages that were gone through by man in learning to sail. First:— Some kind of a grass mat mounted upon a pole; the boat was probably a log or two logs lashed side by side as Fig. 17. The sail could not have been very high or the “boat” would have capsized. only sail in one direction, with the wind. It could Second:— A lee-board was devised, Fig. 18, and by pulling the grass mat around at different angles, the boat or logs could proceed in directions other than that in which the wind was blowing. Third:—A means was de- vised in order to increase the height and area of sails to gain more speed. This was done by hollowing out the logs or boat and placing a light auxiliary float in the water three or four feet from the boat and at- tached to it by sticks that did not touch the water, Fig. 19. This rig worked better when the float hap- pened to be on the lee side. Fourth:—The lee-board and the side steadying floats were combined in the bulb keel. With the bulb or fin keel, Fig. 20, the height and area of the sails may be increased to nearly any proportion. It will be noted that the approximate sail area in proportion to the size of hull is considerably greater in this boat than in the boats, (log floats), not fitted with bulb keels. With the knowledge gained through these stages it will be seen that it is now possible to construct sails to almost any size and compensate for them with a [27| MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING fin keel and bulb sufficiently heavy to balance them. The more sail, the deeper the fin keel and the heavier the weight to balance the pressure. There is a happy medium, however, that experience has demonstrated to be best. If the keel is too deep the boat is apt to ground in the depth of ordinary inland waters in which it will be navigated, and if the bulb is too heavy the boat will be too sluggish and hard to push along. Obviously, there was no jump from the hollowed out logs to the rather modern racing sloop. There were many stages of development between these two efforts. Centerboard rigs came into being, but as we are not building any of this type of boat I will make no special mention of them. I wanted to show that after builders learned to compensate properly, the development was rather rapid. The design of a suit of sails is, therefore, based largely on experience. Many interesting experi- ments and much valuable data may be gained by the amateur by experimenting himself. The first part of this chapter covers the theory of the compensation of sail pressure by the bulb keel and the proper location of the center of gravity of the sails with respect to the center of lateral resistance of the hull of the boat. Take any sailboat design and construct two hulls exactly alike. Let one boy build his boat and sails exactly to the figures given. Then let another lad add a little to the sail area and increase the depth of the size of bulb, following, of course, the instructions given for finding the center of effort of the sails. After the two boats are completed, race them together under exactly the same conditions and see which boat wins, and why. [28] In order to be fair, they MODEL YACHT DESIGN should be sailed at every angle to and with the wind several times and the average of winnings counted. Although a boat may be manifestly a better all around boat than another the poorer boat may be able to sail faster under some one or two conditions than the other, so the average will be necessary in order to arrive at a correct conclusion. The sails you use for these experiments need not be the best material and the fin and bulb may be secured temporarily in order that they may be shifted several times until the best location has been found. Figs. 21 and 22 show methods which may be employed to shift these elements, by backing off the screws the fins and bulbs may be shifted for the length of the slots. Fig. 23 is an ingenious and novel device developed and patented by Mr. Boucher for allowing the model yachtsman to shift his center of effort of the combined sail area quite some distance fore and aft, to allow for many interesting experiments and to suit different conditions of sailing. That is, you will find when sail- ing before the wind your boat may act better if you shift your center of effort a little forward or aft of the point at which it may do best when sailing close hauled. Inasmuch as this feature is patented, the law forbids anyone to make them to sell except the patentee. However, no objection will be made to anyone making them for his own use on these models. The fundamentals of the relative size of sails in proportion to the other elements of the hull and their location with respect to the same should be apparent after reading this chapter. It is obvious that the top weights, such as spars and fittings, should be kept [29] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING SHIFTING DEVICE MAST STEP Bow SPFTT. MIMST STEP. GUE AND BOM fg SLOOP. MARCONI AIG SLOOP. FiG=25. FiG-24. [ 30] SAILING AND SAIL MAKING down to the minimum consistent with strength for the reason of balance. The sails considered best and most popular for miniature boats, or rather I should say, the rig, is that known as the Marconi, (fore and aft rig). A mainsail, in this rig, combines the mainsail and topsail of a boom and gaff rig and eliminates the use and weight of the gaff. Figs. 24 and 25 indicate the difference between the Marconi and the boom and gaff rig. A properly designed suit of sails, after the dimen- sions have been determined, should have a very slight slack or bag in the middle. The figures given in the book for size of sails are for the flat sizes just as if they were of tin. Frequently “store boats” have their sails made for show and not for sailing. They look better to the untrained eye if they hang nice and flat without the slightest bag. But a properly made sail if laid out flat on the sail loft floor and with the outer edges stretched out tight will show the slightest looseness in the center. Sails for large boats are, of course, made of strips of canvas sewed together because it would be impos- sible to get canvas large enough for one piece. they are made up they look like Fig. 26. When In the case of models this, of course, does not follow. Some model makers, however, are so fussy that although the sails may be made in one piece they prefer to sew imitation seams in them. This is unnecessary and is only for looks. It is done by lapping over the material as indicated in Fig. 27. The sewing should be done by hand with an overhand stitch. A piece of cloth should be selected and completely stitched before the exact shape of the sail is cut out, then after the stitching is [31] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING completed the outline of the sail is carefully marked thereon and cut out. See Fig. 28. Then hand stitch a piece of fin. binding $ in. in from the edge first on one side then fold over and hand stitch on the other. See Figs. 29 and 30. All of the stitching is by hand with a round, overhand stitch as indicated. The tape does not stretch or shrink, that is the purpose of securing it. SHALE OF SAL po TViG29. FIRST SEV TAPE LONG LINE OF CUT (SHAPE 26 SAIL) THEN Cul CLorn FUST E ND. ID OF LIME OUTS LOLD WERTAPE NO \Sw OFVWER EDGE. ies 53 ee [32] SAILING AND SAIL MAKING No exact rule will be given for the best area of sail in proportion to the hull of a racing boat. Follow the sizes given for each boat and, if you desire, experiment with cheap material, making the sails slightly larger or smaller for comparison. The simplest fore and aft rig boats in this book are the Cape Cod type hull with a “lug” mainsail, Fig. 31, and the Cat Boat with the Marconi mainsail, Fig. 32. None of the designs here given cover the construction of a sloop or schooner with mainsail and topsail rig. The rigging by which the sails are held in place and trimmed is as follows: Standing rigging, stays. Running rigging, halyards and sheets and their uses are as follows in the order mentioned. Ropes or wire cables which support the masts, ropes by which the sails are manipulated, ropes by which the sails are raised and the sheets are the ropes by which the slant of the sails of a fore and aft rigged boat are controlled or trimmed. In the Marconi rig the two spars for spreading the topsail are eliminated, the sprit, or yard, and the club. These are the spars that extend the luff or the front and the foot of the topsail. The best cloth to use for mainiature sails is balloo n cloth. The amateur yachtsman will soon learn that by the use of the patented sail shifting device, indicated in the details of the sailing boats mentioned, that he has a decided advantage over his opponent’s boats which are not so fitted. Where there is no crew aboard to shift ballast and constantly adjust sails and change helm, boats with a fixed mast and consequently a [33] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING V.TIPLE CAT BORT. CAPE COD HULL LUG MAINSHI WIND DEHDASTEFIN Fig.33. WIND ONTHE QUAATER. Boom TiG-34 | | z, as Ze iz } WIND BEAM, | WIND ABRET THE BEAM, \\FiG.36 WIND FORWAAD OF THE BEAM FiG.3? FA ERD – CLOSE HAYLED. WIND SAILING AND SAIL MAKING fixed center of effort are under a handicap when sailing under different weather and wind conditions. Our skippers will have the advantage of using judg- ment of past performance of their boats. You will find that in a light wind, the entire rig should be moved aft, in medium wind the same may be moved half-way forward and in a heavy wind all the way forward. On the wind or, close hauled, sailing to windward, these boats may be perfectly balanced. The shifting must be done of course before the race, to suit the wind you find on the course. A little prac- tice will make one quite an expert. The following information will be of use to the miniature yachtsman although it is data intended primarily for boats operating with a man aboard but for those who know nothing of the theory of sailing it will help with miniature boat sailing. mentals are the same. The funda- SAILING Running before the wind looks like the ideal way to sail but experience will soon teach that this is not so. Fig. 33 shows the location of the sail when on this course. Steering is difficult when running with the wind aft, especially in rough water, and there is danger of the sail gybing over when least expected. Except in smooth water, it is better to haul the boat up so as to have the wind on one quarter, and after following this course for some distance, to take the other tack, that is, carefully gybe over so as to bring the wind on the other quarter. Fig. 34 represents the wind on the quarter. Fig. 35 shows the wind abaft [35] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING the beam. Fig. 36 shows the wind abeam or directly at right angles with the boat. Fig. 37 shows the wind forward of the beam. Each figure shows the proper location or direction of the boom or, in nautical terms, how the sail should be trimmed. All of these are shown as favorable winds, the sheet being hauled in such a distance as to give the best results. The positions in all of these figures show a boat when it is what is termed sailing free. To sail close hauled means to bring the boat up as close into the wind as possible and still keep it on its course with the wind filling the sails so as to drive the boat forward. A properly built boat will lie with- in four or four and a half points of the wind, while some will do even better. Fig. 38 shows the proper location of the boom when sailing close hauled. The wind striking the sail at this angle will drive the boat forward and maintain good speed, while to haul it closer would increase the leeway until, if the sail were hauled parallel with the keel, the only progress made would be to leeward. Most boats will sail closer to the wind in smooth water than in rough. When sailing close hauled, it is necessary to hold the boat to a course which will just nicely keep the sail filled with wind. This point can be found by pulling the helm slowly to leeward. As soon as the sail begins to shake near the head, you have reached a point where it is not drawing as much as it should, and if the helm is kept down, the sail will begin to flap in the wind and the boat will loose headway. A little practice will enable one to see the beginning of the tremble in the sail and at the first symptom he [36] SAILING AND SAIL MAKING must reverse the helm until the wind fills the sail fairly. Any novice can understand howa sailing boat can travel with the wind, but why it goes forward with the sails close hauled is a question of dynamics and may be best understood by the amateur by the following. Take a V-shaped block of wood and press it between the thumb and forefinger. If sufficient pressure is used it shoots forward quickly. The thumb may be likened to the wind and the forefinger to the water on the opposite side of the boat. The pressure caused by the wind on the sails pushing the boat against the water on the opposite side causes the boat to go forward. [37] CHAPTER] EM PAINTING AND FINISHING This is where the unadvised amateur is most apt to spoil the job and many home-made models look as if the paint had been put on with a twelve-inch wall brush or a shovel. We do not want these boats to look that way so read this chapter carefully. After the hull of the boat is completed and all brad heads slightly countersunk the first smoothing should be done with fairly smooth sandpaper and the final smoothing with 00 sandpaper until all signs of tool marks or roughness have disappeared. When bright natural finish is mentioned it means that the work is simply rubbed smooth with sandpaper and given the usual number of coats of varnish, nothing else. When bright mahogany finish is mentioned it means the work is rubbed smooth, then stained mahogany and then given the usual number of coats of varnish. It is suggested that Valspar varnish be used. It is known to the trade as a compromise varnish and it is therefore considered the best for miniature boat work. Large boats that are in the water all the time, use outside varnish, but in a model this is too slow in drying. The best inside varnish does not give the proper water protection. Under no circumstances use an [38] PAINTING AND FINISHING inside varnish if the boat is to go in the water. The Best stain of which the author knows of is Devoe’s oil stain. A one-half-pint can will do for several boats. Use the best-ready-mixed paints, but you will find they are too thick for miniature boat work and must be diluted with cream. turpentine, to the consistency of Then add five drops of japan dryer to a one- half-pint of paint. Three or four thin coats, well brushed out, will be best. Each coat should be al- lowed to thoroughly dry and then rubbed down be- fore applying the next. The best paint for water protection is pure white- lead in linseed oil, diluted as above specified. If the boat is to be finished bright top-sides, with colored boot-topping and another color underbody, use the paint known as ground in japan thinned as described above. Japan paints dry flat, (without gloss) and work best after three coats have been applied and rubbed down between each coat. The boat should then receive at least three coats of varnish, properly rubbed. If the boat is to have white top-sides, give the entire boat, except the deck and spars, three thin coats of flat white, (lead and oil diluted as above), before applying the bottom paint and varnish. When the paint or varnish is applied with a brush, no matter how soft and good the brush is, no matter how carefully the work is kept out of the dust while drying, uneven surfaces will result from brush marks. It is customary therefore after each coat is thor- oughly dry and hard to lightly rub it to remove unevenness and finally to polish. [39] Paint or varnish MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING should both be applied in thin coats well brushed out. After the first coat, let it thoroughly dry and harden, then rub it lightly with 00 sandpaper, (do not cut through), and brush off and apply the second coat, allowing it to thoroughly dry and harden. Then rub down with powdered pumice stone and crude oil, using a + in. thick felt pad 2 in. by 4 in. long. the third coat repeat this process. After After the fourth coat, which is a flowed on coat in the case of varnish, rub it with powdered “rotten-stone,” oil and a pad. felt Finally polish it with dry “rotten-stone” on the palm of the hand. Wipe the work clean and dry with cheese cloth after each rubbing and before applying a new coat. When rubbing down, rub in one direction, that is, back and forth with the grain of the wood and not in a circle. The utmost care is to be taken to keep the work out of all dust while the paint or varnish is drying. Aiter using a good varnish or paint brush, which should be a rubber set, or equal, flat brush about 2 in. wide, it should be cleaned immediately in gasoline and finally in warm water and soap and then hung up to dry. The purpose of paint and varnish, besides the decorative features, is to preserve the wood and to keep the water from swelling and loosening the joints. It is advisable to give the inside of the boat two good coats of pure linseed oil and one or two coats of some light colored paint. Do not rub this down. In applying mahogany or any other stain be careful not to smear the surrounding wood work. Paint it on with a small brush and when it is nearly dry rub off [40] PAINTING AND FINISHING the extra pigment with a piece of cheese cloth. If it is not dark enough, apply another coat and rub it off as before. Then when the stain is thoroughly dry ap- ply the varnish. Do not rub down the stain until it has received one coat of varnish. Be sure not to cut through or you will leave a light streak. In some woods, such as oak and ash, and sometimes mahogany and birch veneer, the grain is so open that a paste filler is rubbed in after the wood has received one coat of stain. The paste filler is cheap and comes in small cans, plain white; it is customary to color it considerably darker than the stain being used, except for plain bright finish where it is used white. A small quantity is colored and made the consistency of very thick cream and then rubbed over the wood. It should be worked into the pores and allowed to nearly dry. Then it is rubbed off, the idea being to only leave the filler in the pores of the wood. This helps to smooth up and to give the work a rich appearance by coloring the pores a little darker than the remainder of the work in dark stained woods. Allow the filler to dry several hours before applying the varnish. If you have built a veneer sided power speed boat it looks best with bright natural finished deck, bright mahogany finished top-sides, coamings and beading, bright yellow boot-topping and robin’s egg blue bottom. The birch veneer grain is particularly adapted to take a good mahogany stain and when finished it can hardly be distinguished from mahogany. The specific procedure for finishing a birch veneer power boat is as follows: Bright deck, bright mahogany finished top-sides and coamings, yellow boot- [41] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING topping, robin’s egg blue underbody. other desirable colors may be used. Of course any After all surfaces have been rubbed down with 00 sandpaper, and also dusted off, apply mahogany stain carefully to the top-sides, beading, coamings and transom. Be careful not to smear the deck with the stain. Stain the transom for its full depth and the sides aft as deep as the transom and forward to about one inch below the chine line. In other words to just below the water line. After the first coat of stain is dry, putty all brad heads with putty colored with the stain. Follow the previous directions for staining. The next step will be to determine exactly how deep in the water the boat will float when loaded or, in case of a sailboat, when fitted with spars and sails. If machinery or sails are not fitted, place them in the boat in their exact location and place the boat carefully in the tub of water. After the boat and water are quite still, sprinkle a little powdered charcoal in the water near the boat on both sides. The charcoal will be attracted to the sides of the boat and will mark clearly the exact water line. Take the boat out of the water immediately. Let the boat thoroughly dry as ‘paint applied to a damp surface will not hold. Then with a soft, sharp pencil and a flat spline, lightly mark in the line of the charcoal. This will be the exact water line. Then mark another line about 3 in. above the water line at the transom and ? in. above the water line at the bow. This narrow strip, slightly wider forward than aft, is for the boot-topping; mark it in lightly with a spline and pencil. The top and bottom boundary of the boot-topping is now marked in. Use a drafting pen and the spline [42] PAINTING AND FINISHING to mark in the paint line or, if you havea steady hand, run the top line in with a flat striping brush. Work the color down to just below the water line, rubbing it out well, particularly at the bottom, to prevent a ridge between the lower boundary of the boot-top- ping and the upper boundary of the underbottom paint when the latter is applied. Apply boot-topping as previously described and with japan paint. _ After the proper number of coats of this have been applied and rubbed down and the last coat is dry, again place the boat carefully in the water and sprinkle charcoal to locate the water line that has been obliterated by working the boot-topping color down below the same. After the boat is out of water and dry, trace in the line and proceed to paint in the bottom color, (japan paint), as previously described. After the necessary number of coats have been applied and rubbed down we are now ready to varnish. The boat is now stained mahogany top-sides and coamings, the boot-topping and bottom finished in flat color; the deck is plain white, unfinished wood, (birch veneer). Dust it off thoroughly and varnish the deck but do not varnish the coamings. Turn the boat bottom side up, resting it on the coamings, and then varnish the top-sides and bottom. The entire boat is now varnished except the coamings. KEEP IT OUT OF THE DUST. I usually make a temporary rectangular wood framing and cover it with some old sheeting or some other hard material ‘that has no lint, the fabric of which is fine enough to allow air but not dust to enter. This frame is just like a box with no bottom, simply turn it upside down over the boat and leave it there until the paint or [43] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING varnish sets, that is until the dust will not stick to it. Then remove the frame and allow the finish to harden in the air of a fairly warm, dry room. Give the usual number of coats of varnish and apply as previously described. The coamings may be varnished after other parts of the boat are dry and finished. It is customary for the name of the boat, in the case of speed motor boats, to be gold leafed on the transom and also on the deck forward. The letters are usu- ally placed on both the port and starboard sides, about half an inch inboard of the beading and the first letter about four inches from the bow if the name is not too long. The bottoms of the letters to be parallel with the sides of the deck. This highly professional finish will add only about fifty cents to the cost of the boat and you will probably have enough gold leaf and size left to do a dozen more boats. Bright yellow paint may be used for the name by those who do not want to use the gold. Apply the gold leaf as follows:—After the second coat of varnish has been rubbed down and cleaned, fold a piece of paper over the deck forward and mark the shape of the deck with lead pencil. This will give you the pattern of the deck. Carefully print the name, with lead pencil, in black letters, Figs. 39 and 40. Then transfer this to the deck by slipping a piece of carbon paper, carbon side down, on the deck. Place the paper pattern of the deck, on which the name is printed, carefully in place and trace over the letters with a sharp lead pencil; this will transfer the letters to the boat. Carefully wipe off any carbon paper smudge from the boat deck. Use a draftsman’s ruling pen and ruler, or a pair of triangles, to outline the [44] PAINTING AND FINISHING [45] (io3q) PAINTING AND FINISHING [ bts Ln = CHAPTER IV MASTS AND SPARS In old time sailing ships, the rule for determining the ratio of the diameter of a spar for a given length was as follows: Masts of ships one inch in diameter for every three feet of length. Masts of schooners one inch in diameter for every four feet of length. Booms and spars one inch in diameter for every five feet of length. That is, in the case of a ship with a total height of mast of seventy-five feet, the stick at its greatest diameter would be twenty-five inches. And in a schooner, where the mast was forty feet high the diameter of the stick at its greatest point would be ten inches—and so on. A mast has its greatest diameter at the partners, because it is supported at this point by the deck, and anything above this point is unsupported, or rather it is considered so. As a matter of fact, the standing rigging and shrouds help considerably. A mast is usually stepped, (fastened at its lowest point), down in the hold of the ship, and is supported at the partners. The greatest bending moment, (tendency to break), is at the deck. But in the case of a boom or gaff the greatest stress is at its mid-length, because [47] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING ‘it is secured to the mast at one end and held by a sheet or stay at the other end, and the pressu re of the wind on the sails acts like a series of weigh ts suspended at right angles to the stick. Consequently, in such spars, the greatest diameter must be near the middle of the length. For the sake of looks let it be a little nearer the mast end. The professional way to make a mast or spar is as follows: Your material should be spruce and it should be secured from a mill in a clean stick a little longer than you require, free from knots or splits, and square in cross section. Of course, it should be a little larger than the greatest diameter necessary. Then a center-line is snapped with a. chalk line on each of the square faces, and the true shape of the final spar marked thereon—see Fig. 41. Ona small model stick, the center-line would be put on with a ruler and pencil. After the shape of a spar is drawn , cut it out, and you will have the exact shape of the mast or spar, but it will be square in cross sections (four sided), Fig. 42. Next carefully cut or trim it with a small plane into an eight sided figure—Fig, 43; then gradually into a round, Fig. 44. Rub it down with sand- paper by turning the stick around in the hand in which a piece of sandpaper is held. Finally varnish it and polish. Some boats are fitted with hollow spars. This fea- ture allows one to have a stronger and lighter mast or spar for a given weight than if it were solid. The reason is that the hollow spar, which will measur e a little larger in diameter than the solid spar and will weigh a little less, has what is called a greater “moment of inertia.” Take for instance a solid steel rod [48] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING one-quarter of an inch in diameter. It will bend with less load on it than will a hollow tube say five-eighths of an inch in diameter with exactly the same quantity of metal in it per foot of length. Likewise, if we wanted to produce a hollow steel tube of exactly the same strength as the one-quarter of an inch rod we could do so with considerably less material per foot of length than the quarter of an inch rod. Therefere, we would be saving considerable weight. : The rule of ratio of diameter to length of the hollow spars will be about 25 per cent. greater than the solid spars. This is how they are made. If your spar is to be, we will say, 14 in. in diameter by 3 ft. 0 in. long, you would require two pieces of clear spruce 14 in. x 3 in. x 3 ft. 6 in. long, nicely dressed, particularly on the surfaces of the 14 in. face, because these faces will be glued and bradded or dowelled together. Mark the center line on all of the 14 in. faces and draw in the outline of your true shape of the stick, then about $ in. inside of these lines draw another set of parallel lines. See Fig, 45. This will be the thickness of the mast or spar when it is finally hollowed out. One inch from each end of the stick drill a 33; in. dowel hole completely through both halves of what will be the complete mast; after you have made sure the two 14 in. x jin. strips are placed truly one over the other, their 14 in. faces being in contact, hold them in “C” clamps while drilling for the dowels. Then glue the dowels in one of the halves. Now proceed to gouge out each of the two halves but do not go deeper in any place than a true circle, the diameter of which is the distance between the two inside boundary lines at the particular [ 50] MASTS AND SPARS point. The two halves will be like Figs. 46 and 47 when ready to glue. Apply waterproof glue and fit to- gether, using plenty of clamps. Cut the two ends off that contain the dowels, after the glue is hard. ceed to shape the mast as for solid sticks. Pro- If you have gone too deep in hollowing in some places you may be in trouble. After the spar is finished and varnished you may, if desired, size it at intervals, as indicated in Fig. 48, with pure linen or silk yarn. should be varnished after completion. The sizing The sizing in the cut is indicated as quite heavy material. done in order to indicate it clearly. This was The actual ma- terial to be used is in reality light strong yarn that would scarcely be noticed. Spruceis a cheap wood but is the best to use for spars. It is soft and light and white. ing use varnish only. When finish- Details of bands and fittings will be given with the specific boat described. AI- ways drill a pilot hole in a spar before fitting a fastening. Be sure to select a straight grained stick and keep it flat or standing upright until you use it so that it will not bend out of shape. [st] CHAPTER V TOOLS AND WORK BENCH A good work bench, as shown in Fig. 49, with a vise, and located where there is heat and a good light, will make the work considerably easier. If it can be located where all the work does not have to be cleared up and the tools put away each time one stops work, it will be much better, and will save time. This, of course, does not mean that the place should not be cleaned up, and the tools put away, for a good workman will always do this. A dry cellar or an attic is an excellent place. Tool benches may be purchased but they are expensive. Mine was built at a cost of $3.50 for the materials. It was fastened together with bolts and nuts so that it could be taken apart and stored if necessary. The top was made from four pieces of yellow pine 2 in. thick by 6 in. wide and 5 ft. long. This makes the bench 5 feet long and 2 feet wide. The top boards were dressed and bolted to three cleats, one near each end and one in the middle. These cleats, as well as the legs, were of spruce 2 in. x 4 in. dressed. The legs were cross-braced and bolted together as shown in Fig. 50. The slots, Figs. 51 and 52, in the cleats, which support the top boards, were for the purpose of allowing for expansion or contraction of the top boards. A shelf at the bottom comes in handy for tools and odds and ends. Although no drawer is shown, one will come in handy and may be added [52] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING easily. A shelf at the back of the bench, arranged about two feet higher than the bench itself, is good, because one soon gets into the habit of placing tools that are not in use on this shelf instead of littering up the top of the bench. For all around purposes a metal vise is the best. The tools which should be on hand for miniature boat work depend upon whether the builder intends buying some of the parts partly shaped, or prefers making the boats complete. Tools will be listed first for fabricated boats and then an additional list will be given for those desiring to do all the work themselves. One small, fine toothed, cross grained back saw. One steel framed coping saw and six blades. One One One One One small hammer. good wood chisel. 1 in. good gouge. 1 in. small screw driver. small adjustable block plane. One four-foot rule. Several sheets of “OO” sandpaper. Several sheets of “O” sandpaper. Several sheets of “1” sandpaper. One good pen knife. About twelve small cast iron “C” clamps with a 2 in. jaw. Those doing general model work and making all the parts should have, in addition to the above: A rip and a cross cut saw. A draw knife. A smoothing plane. at least six large gluing clamps. Brace and bitts and [54] TOOLS AND WORK BENCH In making the work bench you should endeavor to have the top perfectly level. In order to do this, cut all four legs to the exact length, and then let their top edges butt, wood to wood, to the under side of the top boards. Then, if the floor on which your table or bench will rest is level, it is easy, but if this is not the case, level it up with thin wedges and then tack the wedges to the bottom of the legs. The bench, as designed, is fairly heavy, but that is what is required. A light, wabbly bench is worse than nothing and adds to the difficulty of the work. The expenditure of four or five dollars for a work bench and the additional expense of buying good tools can hardly be called an extravagance in view of the fact that such a combination may be used extensively for many other purposes besides model building. In making the ordinary repairs about the house, the cost will be saved in short order. Several firms make small tool sets and they are safe to buy if they are composed of standard, wellknown makes. My tools were collected one at a time, this being the usual method. Some of them I pur- chased in second-hand shops, and one is perfectly safe in this respect, if one sticks to standard makes, avoiding tools on which the maker’s name does not appear. One can use the finest tools made, in good materials, the kind specified for these boats, with no harm, but look out for nails in old material before attempting to finish them with a plane or a chisel. The three-ply veneer is, however, extremely tough, and will take the edge off tools very quickly. Keep all the tools clean and sharp, and since so little is [55] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING known of this art, what follows may be interesting and instructive. The first operation, in sharpening tools, is grinding. There are two forms of grindstones, the oldfashioned water-wheel and the emery or carborundum wheel. The water-wheel is large and makes considerable dirt, it runs with the wheel partly in water. Water-wheels are best for large tools, and the smaller, high-speed carborundum wheels, for small tools. Due to their smaller diameter they cut a concave bevel in the face of the tool which makes frequent grinding unnecessary. The water on the water-wheel prevents the friction caused by the tool with the moving surface of the wheel from heating the tool and drawing its temper. No water or oil is used with the emery or carborundum wheel, consequently considerable care must be exercised in order not to hold the tool too hard or too long against the wheel. Care must be exercised with these wheels not to draw the temper of the tool. Always grind with the surface of the wheel moving toward the tool. The handle to be held always at the same distance from the wheel and at the same angle in order to make a perfect concave bevel. If the tool is raised and lowered the bevel is apt to be convex instead of concave. Tools that are to be used with soft wood may be ground with a longer bevel than those to be used with hard wood. The long bevel grind requires less effort in cutting in soft wood, but is frequently not “stiff” enough to stand up in hard woods. When using either type of grinding wheel be careful not to wear the grinding surface of the wheel unevenly. After grinding, the tool should be finished on an oil [56] TOOLS AND WORK BENCH stone. Straight edged tools, such as chisels, should be held with the left hand in front of the right, (for a right-handed person). The right wrist should be straight, in line with the forearm. The left hand steadies and guides the tool and furnishes the downward pressure. Always move the tool straight forward and back, not with a side, diagonal or circular movement; keeping it constantly at the same angle with the stone. This is done by moving the hands horizontally forward and back, but not raising or depressing them during the stroke. The pressure of the left hand should only be exerted during the forward part of the stroke. When the edge is sharp, which can best be told by looking at it, there will be no flat ledge left to reflect the light. Then turn the tool over and lay it per- fectly flat on the stone and with a few diagonal strokes remove the wire-edge or burr. Gouges should be sharpened the same as chisels, except that they must be constantly rolled to right and left dur- ing grinding and during each stroke on the oil stone. Small circular oil stones called slips are used for removing the wire-edge or burrs from gouges or other similar shaped tools. Curved plane irons should first be ground to con- form accurately to the curve of the sole of the plane and then worked on the oil stone as explained for gouges. Irons for planes with flat soles should be ground and sharpened with straight edges, except that the edge should be very slightly rounded off at each end to prevent marking the work with sharp furrows. Irons for a single-iron jack-plane should be [57] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING rounded, and for other jack-planes slightly rounded at the corners. In sharpening draw knives place one handle flat on the work bench, hold the other in the left hand with the edge to the right, then pass the oil stone backward and forward from one end to the other, holding it firmly and keeping the angle true. Be sure to keep the oil stone clean and moist when not in use and when using apply enough oil or water to prevent the particles ground from the tool from becoming imbedded into the stone causing a glazing of the surface. This greatly impairs its effectiveness. Do not attempt to sharpen a saw but take it toa good hardware store or a saw filer. Never use a rip saw to saw cross grain and never use a cross cut saw to rip. Saw teeth, besides being filed sharp, have a set put in them; that is they are bent over or out, the first tooth is bent, say to the right, and the next to the left, the next to the right, and so on, the cross width of the teeth being just a little more than the thickness of the saw material. This keeps the saw from sticking or jamming and being hard to push. Just as soon as a cross cut saw is used to rip (sawing with grain of wood) the teeth are forced in straight again and the saw loses its set. A rip saw used to cut cross grain, haggles the grain of the wood and breaks little particles out of the surface near the edge of the cut. If you are not going to use your saws for sometime, or if they are kept in a damp place, have an oily rag handy or use a little thin automobile cup grease to wipe over the blade, particularly near the teeth, to prevent rusting and loss of the cutting edge. In gen- eral, about tools; cheap ones of the “five and ten” variety are of no use at all, One may, however, pick [58] TOOLS AND WORK BENCH up “C” clamps good enough for light work in the “five and ten” stores. I have told of the tools that should be on hand in model making in order to do the best and easiest job, but as a matter of fact, I have seen good models, particularly where fabricated parts are secured, made with a tack hammer, small screw driver, a good, heavy-bladed penknife and about six sheets of sandpaper, the latter ranging from quite coarse, for roughing, to double “0”. The only work bench was an old discarded table. Tf one can afford it, it is better to purchase the best tools one can obtain because such tools last a lifetime and there is a certain pleasure in having the proper tool for each operation. The work is done more neatly and expeditiously with the tool designed for the work than with extemporized appliances. A well-equipped and neat workshop is a joy and pride to the owner and the envy of his less fortunate friends. [59] CHAPTER VI DEFINITIONS AND NAUTICAL TERMS Aback. When the pressure of the wind on the sails of a ship has a tendency to drive it astern. Aboard. On or ina About. ship. When a sailing ship is beating to wind- ward it changes its course, allowing the wind to bear on the opposite side of the sails. To change from the starboard to the port tack or the reverse. Abaft. Toward the stern, aft, relative to. Abeam. At right-angles to the vessel’s longitudi- nal axis and in her plane of flotation. Abreast. Adrift. Over against, opposite. Afloat without effective means of propul- sion or control. Aft. In the direction of or toward the stern. Ahead. Alee. Forward, in front of. Away from the wind. Aloft. To carry alee helm. In the tops or upper rigging, above the decks. Amidships. In the vicinity of the middle portion of the ship distinguished from her ends. Astern. Signifying position in the rear or abaft the stern, as regards motion, the opposite of go- ing ahead, backwards. Athwartship. In a transverse direction, from side to side at right angles to the fore and aft center line. Awash. Level with the surface of the water. [ 60] DEFINITIONS AND NAUTICAL TERMS Backstay. Stays which extend from all mast levels, except the lower, to the ship’s sides, some distance abaft the mast, for the purpose of preventing the masts from going forward. Bark. A vessel having three masts, fore, main and mizzen. The two forward are square rigged and the mizzen is fore and aft rigged. Barkentine. A vessel having three masts, the fore mast is square rigged and the main and mizzen are fore and aft rigged. Beam. The extreme width of a ship. A transverse number supporting a deck. Beam Moulded. The extreme width of a ship taken to the outside of the frames but inside of the planking or plating. Bear-up. To alter course, turning the ship’s head more away from the wind. Literally to bear the helm to windward. Batten (Spline). A thin strip of smoothly finished wood, usually about a 4 in. or 35 in. square, tapered toward each end and from three to six feet long. Used in connection with shipweights or pins to draw in the curved lines of a ship, such as, sheer, frame lines or half-breadths. Beating to Windward. Proceeding as nearly as possible in a direction toward the wind, by means of tacking. Before the Wind. Becalmed. Belay. Having the wind directly aft. Without wind. To make a rope fast. Bending Sails. Securing the sails to the mast or spars. Boot-Topping. A narrow strip of painted surface [61] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING of a vessel “between wind and water.” A longitudinal striping of paint, usually a different color than the underwater or above water color. Should be run in just above the water line for a finish. Ona large ship usually from 6 in. to 18 in. wide, generally wider forward than aft. Bilge. The round or sharp portion of a vessel where the bottom connects to the sides. There are round bilges and square bilges. Bight. A loop in a rope. Brig. A two-masted vessel, square rigged on both. Bow. The forward end of a ship, the opposite to the stern. Brigantine. A two-masted vessel square rigged on the foremast. By the Head. A vessel is said to be trimmed by the head when she is down deeper in the water forward than aft. By the Stern. The opposite of “by the head.” By the Wind. Sailing as close to the wind as possible. Close hauled. Close Hauled. Sailing as close to the wind as possible. Center of Effort. The center of pull of the combined sail area. Center of gravity of combined sail area. Center of Lateral Resistance. The center of resistance of the water on the fore and aft plane of the immersed body of a vessel. The center of gravity of the fore and aft plane of the immersed body of a vessel. Chine. A timber ina “hard bilged” boat that runs fore and aft and connects the bottom to the sides. [62] DEFINITIONS AND NAUTICAL TERMS Cleat. A two-pronged fitting fastened to a ship for securing a rope. Chock. A fitting secured to a boat for leading a rope inboard to a cleat without chafing the rope. Coaming. In small boats the finishing boards that form the cockpit and extend above the deck. They keep the water and spray out of an open boat. Clamp. A timber in a boat that runs fore and aft and connects the sides to the deck. C Clamp. A metal clamp used to assist in gluing. Made in the shape of a letter C, having a screw threaded member mounted in the top which may be turned down to grip material of different thicknesses. Crank. A vessel is said to be crank if she lists over easily. Crown. The opposite of stiff. The upward curve of a deck as viewed transversely. Decks are usually not flat, but have a crown in order that they may shed water. Counter. The part of a ship’s after body extending aft from the after perpendicular, usually above the water line. Dead Flat. The portion of a vessel where the greatest beam is attained. Maintained for vary- ing distances. Draft. The depth a vessel sinks in the water when floating. Drag. A vessel is said to have a drag when her keel is deeper in the water at the stern than forward. Draw. A sail draws when it is filled with wind. To let draw is to ease off the weather sheet of a head sail and to haul in the lee sheet. [ 63] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Ensign Staff. The flag staff at the stern of a vessel on which the national or yacht ensign is flown. Jack Staff. The flag staff at the bow of a vessel on which the union jack, (the field of the national emblem), is flown. In a small power boat the club burgee is correct on this staff. Faying Surface. Two surfaces in immediate contact. The faying surfaces of a boat must fit perfectly to exclude the water. Flam. A term often used to express the same meaning as flare but more properly to denote the extreme upper part of the flare out of the side of the ship forward, just under the line of the weather deck. Flat Aft. The sheets of a fore and aft sail are flat aft when they are hauled in as far as possible for sailing close hauled. Flush Deck. Isa level or even deck throughout its extent. A flush deck ship is a ship with a flush upper deck having no raised deck at either end. Freeboard. The portion of a vessel which extends above the water when floating. Full and By. Sailing close hauled, to keep the sails full. Gather Away. When a vessel begins to move through the water. Go About. To tack. Going Free. Sailing with the wind on the beam or quarter. Gybing Sail. When running nearly before the wind and the wind gets on the lee side of a fore [ 64] DEFINITIONS AND NAUTICAL TERMS and aft sail, blowing it over to the other side, it is said to “gybe.” Halving. When two timbers are joined, they are halved together, when a notch half the depth of each is cut out, (when the timbers are the same size) or if not the same size, half the depth of the smaller one. The keel is halved into the tran- som. Halyard. Line for hoisting signals, flags, sails, etc. Heading. The direction of the ship’s head. Hermaphrodite. Hogged. A brigantine. The bow and stern of a vessel having settled below their original level. Hull Down. When only the spars of a vessel are visible above the horizon. Hove To. Keeping the ship stationary by making one sail work against the other. Inboard. In toward the fore and aft center line. Inside the hull of the ship. Outboard. Out toward the side of the ship and away from the fore and aft center line, or outside of the ship. In Irons. A vessel is said to be in irons when she is head to wind and will fall off on either tack. Intercostal. Being disposed between, not continu- ous. Keel. The lowest central fore and aft member, usu- ally running the full length of a vessel, connect- ing the stern and the stem post. Leech. The side edges of a square sail or the fore and aft edge of a fore and aft sail. Lee Side. The side away from the wind. [65] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Lee Helm. The helm put down to leeward to bring the vessel up to the wind. Lugger. A vessel having from one to three masts rigged with quadrilateral fore and aft sails bent to yards. List. Leaning to one side, over balanced. Luff. To turn the head of the vessel toward the wind. To sail nearer the wind. Mainsail. The principal sail carried by the mainimast. Marline Spike. A pointed tool usually of steel used for opening the strands of a rope, in order that another strand may be tucked in when knotting or splicing. Mast—A long pole of steel or wood, usually circular in section, which is erected vertically on the center line of the ship. Mast, Fore. The first mast from the bow. Mast, Main. Second mast from the bow. Mast, Mizzen. Third mast from the bow. Mold (Shape). A thin wooden or stiff paper pattern made for checking the curve of a ship’s side. Overboard. Over the side. Into the water. Pilot Hole. A hole drilled into a piece of material smaller than the fastening to be used in order to prevent the fastening from splitting the material when it is driven in. Port. The left hand side of a ship looking from aft to forward (at night marked by a red light). Rabbet. A groove in the stern, stem or keel of a boat into which the planking or plating is fitted. Run. The under-water portion of a vessel aft of the greatest beam. [66] DEFINITIONS AND NAUTICAL TERMS Rudder. A device used in steering or maneuver- ing a vessel, usually a flat slab of steel or wood hung at the stern of the vessel, the same being adapted to be turned to the right or left as de- sired. Ruling Pen. A flat, sharp, adjustable, two-jawed instrument used by draftsmen for drawing a fair ink-line with the aid of a ruler or spline. Sloop. A single masted boat with jib and mainsail. Spar. A timber or stick upon which the sails of a boat are bent. Starboard. The right hand side of a ship looking from aft toward forward (at night marked by a green light). Stability. The tendency which a vessel has to re- turn to upright when inclined away from that position. Schooner. A fore and aft rigged vessel with two or more masts. Sheer. The profile of a boat. as viewed longitudinally. The curve of a deck A boat may have a curved sheer or a straight sheer. Sheet. Scud. no A line for controlling the angle of a sail. To run before a gale of wind with little or canvas. Standing Rigging. The fixed rigging such as stays or rattlings. Steerage-Way. Going ahead or astern with enough speed to enable the rudder to control the movements of the vessel. Striping Brush. A long, thin, flat brush used by painters for cutting in a straight even line. Stern Tube. A metal tube passing from the inside [67] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING of a vessel, near the after end, through the bottom into the water, through which the propeller shaft passes. Tack. To go about, to change from one tack to another. Transom, The flat after end of a boat. Top Side. Above the water, upper deck. Strut. A metal arm extending outboard from a vessel for supporting the propeller shaft, usually located ait. Stuffing Box. A metal fitting, screw threaded at the end of the shaft tube, through which the propeller shaft passes from the sea into the inside of the boat. Tiller. The handle for operating the rudder. Tumble Home. A vessel’s sides are said to have a tumble home when she is wider at the water line than at the top side deck. Wetted Surface. The portion of a ship’s hull in contact with the water. Waist. The middle portion of a ship’s upper deck. Wake. In wake of, behind. The water left astern of a vessel under way. Universal Coupling. A flexible coupling disposed between the drive shaft of an engine and the driven shaft, so that the former shaft may be at a slightly different angle than the latter and at the same time cause no binding in the bearings. Yaw. To work from side to side in going ahead. [ 68] CHABLTER. Vil KNOTS AND SPLICES IN ROPES In order that the reader may acquire a seagoing knowledge and place himself in the atmosphere of things pertaining to this important branch of a deep sea sailor’s ability, the writer feels it necessary to explain the knots and splices most commonly used, although there may be no special requirement for them in use with the construction of the boats mentioned herein. A real sailor has as much contempt for one associating himself with boats who does not know the principal knots and splices as a land-lubber has for a bookkeeper who cannot keep books. The old salts of yesterday look with some contempt on the sailors of today. There is a saying among the old-timers that in former years “ships were made of wood and the crew of steel while today the ships are made of steel and the crew is made of wood.” The art in working in rope cannot be learned entirely from books, but the illustrations will give the reader a good working indea of the most common knots and splices. Like all other things, practice makes perfect. A small piece of rope about one-half inch in diameter will enable the beginner to experiment and learn to tie these knots with a little practice. Manila or hemp rope is never spoken of in terms of diameter, but always in circumference. [69] For instance, the rope MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING KNOTS t IN THE END OF A ROPE SEA, ue KNOTS AND SPLICES IN ROPES BENDING WO ROPES TOGETHER- Fig-S4. [71] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING mentioned, one-half inch diameter, would be called 1% inch rope, because the circumference of a circle is about three times greater than its diameter. KNOTS AND SPLICES The following are a number of simple knots, all of which can be made with a single rope. (Fig. 53). 1—Overhand Knot. 2—Bowline. One of the most common and useful knots known in seamanship. It forms a loop, which may be of any length, and which cannot slip. The heavier the pull is the harder it jams. Moreover it does not form a nip sharp enough to weaken the rope. It is used for lowering men over a ship’s side, for slinging them from stays, etc. A common use is to form a loop in the end of a hawser to throw over a bollard in securing the ship at a dock. 3—Running Bowline. ning loop. A convenient form of run- The loop of the bowline proper is usually smaller than that shown in the figure. 4, 5—A Bowline on a Bight. Used in place of a single bowline where greater strength is needed or an increased number of parts. 6, 9, 1O—-A Cat’s Paw and a Blackwall Hitch. Used for hooking a tackle to the end of a rope. 7—Sheep Shank. A quick and convenient way of temporarily shortening a rope. 8—Figure of Eight Knot. vent its unreeving. Turnedina rope to pre- . It will not jam as an overhand knot will do. The following are a number of common knots for connecting two ropes. (Fig. 54). [72] KNOTS AND SPLICES IN ROPES BENDING AROPE TOA POST OR A SPAR. MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING 11—Square or Reef Knot. one of the most useful. This is the simplest and It should be distinguished from the granny knot, Fig. 12, which does not hold as well and is hard to untie. A square knot will not answer for uniting ropes of different size, as the parts would slip unless stopped down. 13—Sheet or Becket Bend. “weavers knot.” Called by landsmen a May be used where the parts are of different size. 14—Sheet Bend Double. 15, 16—Single Carrick Bend. 17, 18, 19—Double Carrick Bend. for bending hawsers together. Commonly used If the two parts are of different size it is well to seize each part back on itself. 20, 21—Two Bowlines and a Reeving Line Bend. Are also used for bending hawsers together. The reeving line bend is particularly useful where the lines are to be veered out through a small pipe. The following are methods for securing lines to spars, posts, rings, etc. 22—Studding-sail (Fig. 55). Tack Bend. Will not come adrift by the flapping of the sail. 23—Studding-sail Halliard Bend. Lies flat to the yard. 24—Fisherman’s Bend. 25—Timber Hitch. 26—Timber and Half Hitch. For towing or drag-. ging a spar. 27, 29—Rolling Hitch. Very useful where one rope is to be bent to the standing part of another rope, or to a spar. [74] KNOTS WORKED [75] IN THE END MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING 28—Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, ing a hawser fast to a bollard. For mak- For greater security the end should be stopped down to the main part. 30, 31—Two Half Hitches and a Clove Hitch. The following are a series of knots which are worked in the end or the body of a rope, using its own strands. Knots of this kind are used to give a finish to the end of a rope or to prevent its unreeving. (Fig. 56). 32—Wall Knot. 33—Wall and Crown. 34—Double Wall and Single Crown. 35—Double Wall and a Double Crown or ManRope Knot. Used on the end of a man-rope trailed over the side to give a good hold for man overboard. 36, 37, 38, 39—-Matthew Walker Knot. Double and single. 40, 41—Lanyard Knot. Used on the end of a lan- yard to prevent unreeving through the dead eye. SPLICES. 42—Chain Splice. (Fig. 57) For splicing a rope to a chain. The following show various forms of splices for joining the ends of two ropes permanently or for bending the end of a rope back upon itself to form a permanent eye. in. The strands of the rope are tucked The lay of the rope where they go through is opened out by means of a marline-spike. The strands are tucked through once their original size, then reduced in size by cutting away a number of threads and tucked a second time. [76] Reduce once more in KNOTS AND SPLICES IN ROPES -~ SPLICES – Fig 57. MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING size and tuck again. It is thus tucked once full size, once two-thirds and once one-third. This gives a neater splice than if tucked three times full size. 43, 44, 45—Eye Splice. In three-strand rope. The rope is unlaid for perhaps a foot from the end and the strands brought back upon the body of the rope at a point which will form an eye of the size that is desired. Beginning with any one strand, this is tucked from left to right, through the strands of the rope (which are opened out with a spike) passed over one and under the next. being The other two strands are similarly tucked, always from right to left. All three are then trimmed down to two-thirds their original size, tucked again, trimmed to onethird their size and tucked a third and last time. 46—Eye Splice. In four-stranded rope. Here the first strand is tucked under two, but this for the first tuck only. 47, 48—Sailmaker’s Eye Splice. Used on the roping of sails because it contains the original lay of the rope around the eye and is thus more convenient for sewing a canvas. 49, 50, 51—Short Splice. Two ropes are unlaid for a short distance and married together with strands interlacing. The strands of each rope are then tucked through the lay of the other rope exactly in the same manner as described for eye splices. [78] CHAPTER VIII WHICH BOAT SHALL I BUILD? ‘Which boat shall I build? The natural inclination is toward the largest and fastest but that is not always possible to most of us. Experience and cost are important factors which must be considered. The cost of building the hulls of any of the power boats except the forty-inch boat, planked and framed type, is small and practically the same. The construction of the hulls for the twenty-four-, thirty-, thirty-six- and forty-eight-inch type is extremely simple. semi-block This type was developed to enable the most unskilled worker to produce a boat, in appearance, equal to the finest large racing yachts. The thirty-six-inch framed-up type is more difficult as it is constructed in exactly the same manner as the full-size race boats. Both the semi-block type and the framed-up type have exactly the same lines and shape. The framed-up type is a little lighter in weight, and due to the fact that it is constructed en- tirely of three-ply birch veneer glued with waterproof glue and secured to regular boat frames it is a trifle more rigid. The complete boat, (twenty-four-inch semi-block hull), and spring motor is manifestly cheaper than the boats having high-powered steam outfits. The spring-driven motor is considerably cheaper in cost. The difference between the semi-block type boat [79] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING and the framed-up type is as follows. The former has a bottom made of a block of wood, planed to shape and hollowed out so as to leave a wall one-quarter of an inch thick. The sides are of thin wood or veneer, and it has no frames or keel. Its shape is obtained by temporary moulds which are removed after the sides, the clamp timbers and deck beams are fitted. The framed-up type is a little lighter and more professional because it is built over a skeleton frame exactly like a large boat of this type. This consists of the keel, stem, transom, chines, clamps and frames. The light but very strong +8; in. thick waterproof veneer sides, bottom and deck being secured to this skeleton frame. lf you have had absolutely no boat building experience and you have a pond or lake large enough to sail a thirty- or thirty-six-inch boat, I would recommend building one of the semi-block types first. If this is not possible I would build a twenty-four-inch boat. Due to the fact that the thirty- or thirty-six-inch models are a little larger and are of the same construc- tion as the twenty-four-inch boat, I consider them a little easier to build. If the cost of the steam power plant is too great, build the larger hull up to the point of installing the power plant. That is, fit the strut, shaft-tube, propeller, rudder and other parts, makinga first class job of it. Paint and finish up and then install one of the spring-driven motors temporarily. These will drive the larger boats, but of course not Later on, you can install one of with great speed. the steam power plants and use the spring motor in a twenty-four-inch boat as a tender. After building one of the [80] semi-block types of WHICH BOAT SHALL I BUILD? models, the amateur builder will probably have little difficulty in constructing the framed-up type. Fur- thermore, the power plant may be easily removed from one boat and placed in another, thus permitting some interesting comparisons. The forty-inch power boat, planked and framed type, is a real job for the more advanced builder. A poor job may, however, be more easily disguised and patched up in this type of construction and the hull will stand a considerable amount of abuse and neglect when finished. If the seams are not tight when fin- ished, they may be made tight with a little cotton and putty and if a good paint job is made they look like a regular job after all. Poor seams may also be stopped by shellac and wood dust. One cannot do any patching of poor connections on the other boats and all joints must be perfect. With the construction methods developed though this is an easy matter. After all, the construction of the hulls of any of the power boats has been developed to such a degree that most anyone need have no fear to undertake building them. [81] CHAPTER IX A FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE (Semi-Blocked Type) This is the largest, fastest and most powerful of the power boats described here. When fitted with the power plant designed for it (CF-2 boiler and 5-64 en- gine), it will develop a speed of twelve miles an hour. This power plant with the large tubular boiler and the four-cylinder high speed racing engine may be too expensive, in which case a smaller boiler and a twocylinder engine or the spring type motor may be installed instead. Of course, only the first mentioned of the power plants will develop the speed of twelve miles an hour. The hulls are of the semi-block type and are very simple with light rigid construction that will pre- sent no difficulty to anyone if the picture instructions are carefully followed. The boat when completed has all the class and grace of the best and most expensively built big speed boats. The chapter on power plants treats fully of the machinery installation, These power plants are fitted with all the safety devices which make them perfectly safe for anyone of ordinary, average intelligence to operate. Arrangements have been made with firms special- izing in these materials to carry in stock semi-finished [ 82] FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE [83 ] HyTID Es TFL MOEHZAT N”T FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE parts for those desiring to build these boats. One may start from the rough material selected in the open market. Drawings and descriptions are arranged so that either course may be followed. The power plants may be purchased in rough cast- ing, machined castings, (ready to assemble), or the completely assembled units ready to hook up and run. Figs. 58 and 59 show respectively a plan view of the completed boat and a profile with the sides partly broken away, showing the complete installation of fittings and machinery. The partly finished material referred to is accurately cut by machinery and the specifications cover- ing the wood to be furnished are very strict, specifying, in every case, the best grade of pattern-makers’ kiln-dried material. The wooden parts come partly finished as follows :— Piece 1—Bottom Block. Shaped in plan view and elevation as indicated in the cut. Operation No. 1. (Fig. 60.) Piece 2—Stem Piece. Cut to proper length and end bevel; bored with a 4 in. dowel hole. Piece 3—Dowel. Turned to proper dimension and sufficient material to cut from. Piece 4—Stern Piece or Transom. Material to cut from. Pieces 5 and 6—Sides. Steam bent to shape and partly fabricated. Pieces 5-A and 6-A—Clamps. Steam bent to shape and partly fabricated. Pieces 5-B and 6-B—Carlings. Material to cut from. Pieces 6-C—Deck Beams: [85] Material to cut from. MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Piece 7—Deck. Partly cut to shape. Piece 8—Coamings. Steam bent to shape ready to finish. Piece 9—Rudder. Partly shaped. Piece 10—-Motor-base Block. Piece Material to cut from. 11—Burner-base Block. Material to cut from. Piece 25——Boiler-base Block. Material to cut from. Parts 12; 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19,21, 22,23, 24 26 and 27 may be purchased complete if desired, or in any state of completion as specified. Those desiring to make the wooden parts from rough material will find full dimensions on the drawings to enable them to do so. The general construction will not be explained, it being understood that all of the general chapters have been carefully read. Much information absolutely necessary is contained in these chapters. Operation One—Fig. 60: Lay out the bottom piece No. 1. Mark the position lines for block, moulds, following the dimensions as given. Mark the fore and aft center line on both the top and the bottom of block. Position lines for the moulds must be at right angles to the fore and aft center line. Scribe a line 3 in. down from the top edge of the block on both sides, as shown. Operation Two—Fig. 61: Bevel the underside of the bottom block, piece No. 1, from the center line to the scribed lines on the sides of the block, as indicated, using a straightedge as a guide in any cross section (see cut). Do the cutting with a small plane. Be careful not to cut away either center line or scribed [86] FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE FiG-Go. 1ST OPERATION, 5 : POSITION LINES FoF A70UL. a7 Sa TOP view on BOTTOM BLOSK. SIDE VIEW OF on Bo77om BLocK SENTER LINE. HOLE Fort SHAFT TUBE \ eee BOTTOM EW oF joT TOR BLOCK 2a? OPERATION. OPERATION FiG-6l. _USE A STRAIGHT EDGE “AS GUIDE _ON ANY CROSS SECTION. MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING lines, but just neatly to them, leaving the line showing. Operation Three—Fig. 62: Carve out “cut out” for motor on top of bottom block piece No. 1 to line previously marked and leave a } in. wall thickness all around. This may be done with a gouge. Be careful not to go thinner than a 4 in. wall. Operation Four—Fig. 63: Set the stem piece No. 2 in place and continue the 4 in. hole into the bottom block, piece No. 1, but not all the way through. Se- cure the stem piece, No. 2, in place with the dowel, piece 3, and glue. Then drive in one small brad to hold it until the glue sets. Use waterproof glue only. Operation Five—Fig. 64: Make the stern piece No. 4, (transom), 3°s in. thick, mahogany, to the di- mensions specified under this operation. Make also the other three temporary moulds, using any conveni- ent material for the latter, making them about 4} in. thick. Be careful to lay these pieces out accurately to the dimensions as given. First lay out a vertical center line on each mould, then drawa fine, sharp line exactly at right angles to it. The latter line in each case will be the top of the mould. Then measure down the depth shown for the bottom line. Have the top and bottom lines of the moulds parallel to each other and exactly at right angles to the vertical center line. Then lay off the half-breadth of each at the top and bottom and connect the points carefully with a fine sharp line. Then saw the shape out and plane or sandpaper it exactly to the line. Be extremely ac- curate in laying out these moulds because the proper shape of the boat depends upon them. [88] The notches FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE AMOPERATION. Fig-63. TIiG-64 StLOPERATION. CUT QUT UPPER CORNERS OF MOULDS TO CLEA CLAMPS. ___ Bia, 10″ x 10% a- oe M BLOCK WITH MEW OF BOTTO ae PIECE – TEMPORARY eis (D STEM IM PLACE N Z 2 OPERATION. BEVEL OFF SIDES oF » TiG-6e. TEMP ORAGY Pies BHAPE STERN ~2£ BOTTOM BLOCK. 1 [89] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING at the upper outboard edges of the temporary moulds are for the clamps. Operations Six and Seven—Figs. 65 and 66: Fit the stern piece, (transom), and the temporary moulds in their proper places, each vertical center line of the moulds exactly matching up with the fore and aft center line of the bottom block and exactly over the transverse station lines of the block. If they fit, glue them permanently and brad the transom piece in place with waterproof glue as shown in operations 6 and 7. The other two moulds are only temporary so just drive two brads part way in each as shown. These brads will afterwards be pulled out and the hole plugged with a match stick cut to size and glued in place when the sides are fitted and the moulds removed. Bevel off the edges of the bottom block, as shown, in line with the sides of the stern piece and temporary moulds and curve of the back of the stern piece. Operation Eight—Fig. 67: Carefully fit the side pieces 5 and 6 to the bottom block and into the jog at the bow, the stern pieces, along the edge of the botom block and at stem. Press the sides firmly into place and make sure that they come perfectly flat and fair and that the faying surfaces are perfect, otherwise the boat will leak. Trim carefully. Leave the side planks a little longer at each end and a little wide at the top and bottom. This is to be planed off later when the glue is hard and, when the fit is per- fect, glue and brad them in place. Fit and secure one side at a time and let the glue harden over night. Then trim at the bow so that the other plank may come flat over the stem piece. [90] After the glue is hard FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE S84 OPEARATION- [91] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING trim the sides aft to suit the stern piece and forward to suit the stem and the top and the bottom to suit the top of moulds and the bottom block respectively. Drive a couple of brads, as shown, part way into the temporary moulds through the sides; remove them and plugs the holes when these moulds are removed. Operation Nine—Fig. 68: Plane the upper edge of the side planks to conform to the crown of the transom and the deck beams, the deck beams having the same crown as the top of transom. Bevel the bottom edges of the planks to suit the bottom bevel. Operation Ten—Fig. 69: Fit the clamps 5-A and 6-A and fasten them to side planks from the inside. Use brads for this work. Operation Eleven—Fig. 70: Fit the deck beams, 6-C, and fasten them in place. Then remove the temporary moulds. Operation Twelve—Fig. 71: Fit the deck, piece No. 7, to the boat and cut out the section for the cockpit. Brad the carlings 5-B and 6-B to underside of the deck in line with the cockpit. Operation Thirteen—Fig. 72: Fasten the deck to the boat. Brad it to the stem, transom, clamps and deck beams. Smooth off the outer edge to conform to the sides of the boat and brad in place both half rounds. Operation Fourteen—Fig. 73: Fit the coamings 8 and fasten them in place with brads and glue; slightly countersink all brads and sandpaper and finish the coamings smooth. Operation Fifteen—Fig. 74: Make and secure the boiler, engine and burner bearers as shown. After the rudder, piece 9, is fitted, it should be removed [92] FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE 12TH OPERATION. FG ~T3. 1404 OPERATION. ® MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING from the boat and finished, (painted or varnished), separately. Fit the motor-base block 10. finish boat. Force the brass shaft tube, piece 19, into Paint and the shaft hole in the bottom of the boat, and cover faying surface of the palm of this with thick paint or white lead before the tube is shoved all the way in. The palm is made fast to the bottom of the boat with four small countersink brass screws. Be sure that the tube is exactly parallel with the fore and aft center line of the boat as viewed from the bottom up. The white lead helps to make the joint between the boat and the metal palm water-tight. Fit and secure the strut, piece 17, and solder the propeller to the shaft. Cut the shaft to the proper length to suit and install the boiler, burner and motor. The boat is then ready to run. Read the general chapters because they explain fully the painting, finishing, soldering, gluing, bradding, and every general point which one should know to do the job properly. One more thing that is important. The shaft must be lined up perfectly, because it has a bearing in the shaft strut, piece 17, and in the shaft tube, piece 19, and at the motor. If there is a bend in the shaft, it will turn hard and much power will be lost. ful also not to bend the shaft. Be care- First push the shaft tube into the hole in the bottom of the boat, then in- sert the shaft and note whether or not it turns perfectly free. It must turn just as freely when perma- nently fitted in the other bearings. In lining up the motor or engine on the bearers, arrange them so that the shaft, when pushed up through the tube toward the motor, lines up perfectly with the connection on [94] FORTY-EIGHT-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE YO“HYINO ENAT FNTIVODTASINDS AOLMIN 70 LhOg LNMUIH”ASOT [95] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING the power plant, without forcing the shaft in any di- rection. Then mount the strut, piece No. 17, on the outboard portion of the shaft and slide it fore and aft until it touches the bottom of he boat at the proper distance from the stern, but be careful that this does not force the shaft or cause it to bind. The strut arms may be bent slightly apart or pushed together in order to make the strut shorter or longer as re- quired. Press the palms of the strut firmly against the bottom of the boat before securing, when you have found the proper place to secure it, rotate the shaft and note if it is perfectly free. A slight shift must be made if there is any binding. Be sure also to have the shaft directly under the fore and aft center line of the boat. The propeller and rudder must both be located centrally when viewing the finished boat from aft. Note the chapter on painting, but do not put the boat in the water until it is well primed with paint. With the large boiler, the four-cylinder motor designed for this boat is so powerful that it is able to drive two propellers. It will not give as much speed as one propeller of the proper size, due to the loss from friction in the gear drive and the extra shaft, but some builders like to see this powerful looking boat fitted with two propellers. Such an outfit is indicated in Fig. 74. Arrangements have been made with firms to supply this fitting, which is called the twin screw gear drive. [96] CHAPTER X A THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE (Semi-Blocked Type) This chapter thirty-six-inch deals with the boat of the construction semi-block type, of a and powered with a two-cylinder high speed racing steam engine, an eighty-one square inch tubular high pressure steam boiler which is fired with a light gasoline blow torch. Before proceeding with the construction of this boat boat it is absolutely necessary to read all of the general chapters as much information in connection with the construction will be found there. This boat is light and rigid and has attained a speed of about 9 miles an hour. When completed it appears similar to the thirty-six-inch hydroplane of the framed type, but the construction is simpler and well within the ability of the average builder. The construction of this boat is based on the same principle as the twenty-four-, thirty- and forty-eight- inch boats, (semi-block type). The details of construction are in every respect similar to the fortyeight-inch racing hydroplane of the semi-block type, and the procedure for construction and the part numbering are also identical. By following the instruc tions for forty-eight-inch boat, sufficient data will be secured. The boat is one foot shorter than the forty- eight-inch model and consequently all other dimen- [97] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING i;ASBHKS Aime [98] THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE [99] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING HOLE FOP SHALL TUBE. x (LOCK:| BOTTOM VIEW OF E Bar TON BLOCK OfLSID BEVEL UNOE EsloM. CENTER LINE To SCRIBED LINES 0, 22 operation —*”en Fig.18 ~- USE A srncUPEReE) AIS_GUIDE ON _FKY CROSS SECTION [ 100| THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE 424 OPERATION. FiG-80 Fig-sl SU OPERATION EMPORAIEY Moulds. STERM PIECE. ye ee u r 2 ys ae aa, FiG-82- Lt ] x” ” 34 | 7 i ae Yen { te ‘A, + =| Lt @ et OPERATION FASTEN STERN PIECE. AND TEMPORARY MOULDS Soe : STERN PIECE TEMPORARY MOULDS. [ 101 ] | uf t ’ MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING YETH OPERATIONFiG-83. eS / TOM cs 9 BOITOR TH, ON. ELT-SIPE PLANKS SUMQPERATI Fig-84 BO CK LOTHOPEAIATION. FiG-86 ITH OPERATION. [ 102] © THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE 12©” OPERATION ISTHOPERRTION FiG-89. JATHOPERATION @ [ 103] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING sions are smaller. These differences are clearly shown in the drawings of the two boats. The power plant of the thirty-six-inch boat is smaller than that of the forty-eight-inch but exactly the same as that used for the thirty-six-inch framed type racing hydroplane. Follow the instructions for the installation of the power plant of the framed type thirty-six-inch boat. For painting and finishing, gluing, bradding, soldering and every general point that one should know to properly do the job, read all of the general chapters. The operations of the construction of this boat are like the forty-eight-inch boat run from 1 to 14 inclusive, but the figure numbering is necessarily differ- ent. The figures running from 75-90, [ 104] CHAPTER XI A THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING HYDROPLANE— (Framed Type) This racing hydroplane is thirty-six inches long and of the frame type. It is powered with a twocylinder high speed racing steam engine, an eighty- one square inch tubular high pressure steam boiler and fired with a light gasoline blow torch. Before proceeding with the construction of this boat it is absolutely necessary to carefully read the introduction and all of the general chapters as much information in connection with the construction will be secured there. The boat is extremely light and rigid and has attained a speed of ten miles per hour. It is built exactly like a large racing boat of this type and represents the highest type of the model makers’ art, but if the simple picture instructions are carefully followed, anyone of average intelligence will have no difficulty in constructing the boat in a creditable manner. The following is a list of material forming the hull. The numbers and names assigned to the several parts listed in the following table will be carried through[ 105] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING out the description for the ready identification of the parts. LIST OF MATERIALS No. Name No. 1. Keel 19. } 3. 4, 5, Stem 2. 6. Bow piece F ve 8. 9.0 20. 21. 22. 23. i 24. ena Name coaminss Coammings ‘ Stern coamings Half round Beam Blow torch 24A. Engine Boiler 25. 26. Locking steering gear Transom a 10,§ Clamps 26A. Rudder ip, | Chines 2 Chock 15, 31. 16. } sien eles IZ, ~ “Deck 18. Carlings rise Shafting 32. Shaft tube and stuffing box 35. 33. Universal shaft coupling 34. Thrust bearing Thrust bearing collar If you so desire you may purchase especially selected and treated materials, waterproof glued, and partly finished. Arrangements have been made with firms specializing in this type of material to furnish these parts at a price about equal to that which you would pay for material in the open market that was not specially treated, selected or partly shaped. The following work will have been done for you in the fabricated material. Piece 1—Keel. Will come finished one-half-inch square, the one-quarter-inch shaft hole bored to the proper angle. Piece 2—Bow Piece. Shaped as indicated in Fig. [ 106] RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE Tie Pi. eeeee Fig- 90:4, eee LED ie | [ 107] on Fie.P.2. ER LINE : / MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING P-6. This piece is fairly hard to make without power tools because it should be accurate. It consists of three pieces put together with waterproof glue and carefully rabbeted to receive the side and bottom planks. It is also slotted at the bottom to receive the forward end of the keel. All of these operations must be a perfect fit to insure water-tightness, similarity of both sides and the professional appearance of the boat. Piece 3—-Stem. Cut to the proper length and bev- elled to match up with the bow piece. It is bored longitudinally with a one-quarter-inch hole to receive the securing dowel. Pieces 4, 5,6, 7—-Frames. Cut to exact dimensions, accurately notched to receive the keel, chines and clamps. They are made from three-ply birch veneer secured with waterproof glue, each of the three lifts running in a different direction to prevent warping or splitting. Piece 8—Transom. Dressed and cut to the proper size and thickness ready to receive the keel, chines and clamps and is ready to cut the proper curve at the top for the crown of the deck. Pieces 9, 10—Clamps. Cut to the proper size, 3 in. x $in., and steam bent to shape. The material is long enough to cut to the proper length and fit. Pieces 11, 12—Chines. (Same as clamps.) Pieces 13, 14—Side Planks. Steam bent to shape and made from three-ply waterproof birch veneer, each lift running in different directions, to prevent warping or splitting. Pieces 15, 16—Bottom Planks. planks.) [ 108 (Same as side RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE Piece 17—Deck. This comes in flat three-ply birch veneer board, of sufficient size to cut down to the deck size. Piece 18—Carlings. Material to make these. Pieces 19, 20—Coamings. Steam bent of mahogany cut to shape of sufficient size to cut from. Piece 21—Stern Coaming. Mahogany with sufficient material. Piece 22—Half Round. Mahogany with sufficient material. Piece 23—Beam. Material to make this. Screws, brads, and waterproof glue powder, sufficient to do the job. Should you desire to make these parts complete yourself, the following preliminary work will be necessary after you purchase the material from a source of your own selection. All mahogany to be kiln-dried. All white pine to be that known as pattern-makers’ pine, kiln-dried. All material for frames to be three-ply birch veneer 33; in. thick, made up with waterproof glue, each lift to be disposed in a different direction to prevent its warping or cracking. All veneering for the bottom, sides and deck to be of the same, except that it is 3% in. thick. One piece of dressed mahogany, 4 in. thick by 40 in. long and 6 in. wide will be ample to cut the following :— Piece 1, Keel de 3x 36″ long Pieces 9- 10, 2 Clamps $” x #” x40” long Pieces 11-12, 2 Chines $”x $” x40″ long Piece 22, 2 Half Rounds ;3;” x #;” x 40” long Piece 24, 2 Rudder [ 109] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING a Bie Btwn at eS Tor : Fie. PS. 4% SHAFT HOLE eaaerile oF foro, FG. PT. ] 26. Square. / ‘ Ho.oinGg BORE SUGGESTION FoR THE USE OF CLAMPS AND VISE DURING CONSTRUCTION [110] | ‘ al RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE One piece of pattern-makers’ white pine, kiln-dried, 2 in. thick by 3 in. wide by 18 in. long will be ample to cut the following: Piece 2, 2 Bow Pieces Piece 3, Stem Piece Piece 23, Beam Piece 18, Carlings One piece of dressed mahogany 4; in. thick by 40 in. long by 6 in. wide will be ample for pieces 19, 20, 21 (Coamings). One piece of 35 in. three-ply birch veneer 11 in. by 15 in. will be sufficient to cut. Pieces 4, 5, 6, 7—Frames (see Plate 2). The deck piece 17 may be cut from one piece 3’g in. three-ply birch veneer 37 in. by 94 in. Two pieces of three-ply birch veneer 3 in. thick by 38 in. by 5 in. will do for pieces 13, 14—The sides. Pieces 15, 16—Bottom. Two pieces the same as the sides except 36 in. by 44 in. each. For those who do not desire to avail themselves of the fabricated material the following will help over some of the most difficult points in the preliminary shaping of these parts. The-bow piece (piece 2) is made of three pieces. From white-pine, dressed stock, 2 in. thick by 3 in. wide by 18 in. long, cut two pieces as indicated in Fig. P-1. Glue these together as indicated in Fig. P-2. After the glue is hard, cut out the pieces, Fig. P-3, and glue and brad them as indicated in Fig. P-4, then rabbet the piece as indicated in Fig. P-6, in order to receive the keel and the side planking. [111] Piece P-5 MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING is a rear view of the bow piece. to 4in. x4in. x 36in. long. Keel piece 1 is dressed Bore the shaft hole, (4 in. diameter), as per dimensions in Fig. P-7. Stem Piece—Piece 3. Cut and bore as per Fig. P-8. Frames—Pieces 4, 5, 6, 7. Lay out and cut them with a scroll saw as shown in the full-size templates, Figs. P-9, P-10, P-11, P-12.* Transom—Piece 8. Cut as Fig. P-13. Clamps—Pieces 9, 10. Cut from the mahogany stock two pieces 40 in. by $in. by $in. and steam bend them to fit around the frames when they are cut and set in place. Chine—Pieces 11, 12. Same as clamps. Side Planks—Pieces 13, 14. Steam bend to the shape of the boat after the boat is in a state of completion as indicated in operation No. 5. Bottom Planks—Pieces 15,16. side planks. Are the same as the Coaming pieces 19 and 20 are steam bent to shape after the boat is in condition. Operation No. 8. Rudder—FPiece 26A. Is cut to shape as indicated in Fig. P-16. All figures marked with P, as P-1 to P-16 inclusive, represent preliminary operations necessary to prepare the material to start the boat on the same footing with those who purchase it fabricated partly shaped. or We are now ready to start building. Progressive picture drawings from Operation One to Operation Ten inclusive show clearly the different stages of the work. They will now be described in proper order, giving each step and the best way to undertake each feature in a similar manner to that * Folding plate in pocket. [ 112 ] RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE followed in the Boucher shops and in manual training classes. When reference is made to a glued joint, screw connected or bradded, it will be assumed that you have familiarized yourself with the procedure as covered in the general chapters of the book. Operation One—Fig. 91: chapters. Read all the general Be careful and take plenty of time. Do not cut or trim anything until you are sure you are right. Fit each piece in place carefully and hold it temporarily with C clamps. Carefully mark each piece before cutting and examine the faying surfaces to see that they make perfect contact before apply- ing the glue and bradding. The keel is $ in. square and about 36 in. long and the shaft hole is bored to the proper angle. Note that when the keel is turned top side up the shaft hole opening at the top is further forward than the opening at the bottom. Round off the forward end of the keel, as indicated, in order that it will fit the slot in the bottom of the bow piece. See that the shaft hole slants in the proper direction. Operation Two—Fig. 92: rush the work. Be careful and do not Fasten the keel to the bow-piece and glue and brad it in place. Use three long light brads as indicated. Place a mark on top of the keel 303 in. aft of the after face of the bow piece and square the spot, top and one side. Then cut the keel with a back-saw at the point marked. Next notch the half- depth of the keel and in length the thickness of the transom as indicated. Mark the frame stations on top of the keel as indicated by dimensions given. Temporarily secure the keel to the holding board by 3 long screws, about as indicated, (first drill pilot [113] OPERATION NO. 1. FiG-9l. KEEL.L\ OPERATION NO. 2. —Bow PIECE : Fig-92. OES am, z es : [KEEP SRBDS CLEAR OF SHRET HOLE. OPERATION No.s. RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE holes in the keel and countersink for the head of the screw, to prevent the screws splitting the keel). The holding board should be a piece of pine about 30 in. long, lin. thick and 6 in. wide. The top edge is to be smooth and true and the board to be free of twists. When securing the keel to this board be sure, if there is any slight twist in the keel, that you secure it to the holding board in a manner to straighten it. The keel must be pulled straight and true. The holding board is, of course, only a temporary expedient for convenience in holding the boat in a vise as shown in Fig. 93. Secure the stem to the bow-piece and glue and brad it as shown. hours), insert a When the glue is hard, (8 in. bitt in the hole previously bored in the stem piece, and with a brace bore the hole down into the bow-piece about 14 in., withdraw the drill or bitt and blow out the shavings. Be careful in the boring operation not to break the bradded and glued joint. A4in. diameter dowel furnished with the fabricated parts should be covered with waterproof glue, this glue also being put in the hole and the dowel is then pushed home or tapped into the hole. When the glue is set the stem-piece will be held securely. Operation Three—Fig. 94: Be extremely careful. Place frames 4, 5, 6, 7 in place on the keel directly over the marks previously made, and drill two pilot holes with a drill smaller than the brads to be used. Each hole goes down through each frame and slightly into the keel. Keep the brads far enough apart on frames 6 and 7 so that they will not interfere with the shaft hole. This is highly important and if not done properly it will be necessary later on to drill them out to allow the propeller shaft to be installed. [115 J MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Operation Four—Fig. 95: Cut the stem to receive the clamps. This can be done with a back-saw and chisel. First lay the clamps in place, cut the notch deep enough to allow the top of the clamps to come flush with the top of the stem. These clamps will not be bradded in place yet, but when they are, drive the heads of the brads about +g in. below the surface so the edge of your tools will not be damaged. The stem-piece is now notched out to receive the clamps, but it is square in cross-section, instead of wedge shaped as it must be and as is indicated in the sketch. Operation Four. The stem must be chiseled and planed down at the bottom so it will match, (Fig. 95), with the top of the rabbet, cut in the bow-piece to receive the side boards, and line up with the flare of the bow at the deck line. When the stem is properly bevelled it will have a slight outward flare toward the top when viewed from aft. The best way to shape the stem piece is as follows. First cut the landing for the clamps, start forward and see how they fit into the landing cut for them in each frame. Clamp them in place, both sides at once, otherwise you will pull the frames crooked. By bending them both in at once the pressure is equal and there is no tendency to displace the frames. Mark the correct length to fit into the notch cut into the transom and saw to this length. Glue them at the stem-piece and at the transom and brad in place also. Forward, at the stem-piece, pull the clamps in or out, until a line passed along the top outboard edge and carried forward cuts the vertical center line of the stem-piece at the fore and aft center line (see Fig. 95 of operation 4). When the glue is hard, plane and chisel off the superfluous portion of [ 116] RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE the square stem until it resembles the stem shown in operations 4 and 5, so that the side planks when fitted in place will touch evenly over the entire surface of the stem and at the same time lay fair and true into the fore and aft rabbet. Operation Five—Fig. 96: clamp and bendin the chine. Be careful. Finish the Start forward and work aft, both at once, fit the same as described for the clamp, and secure the forward end in the notch cut to receive it in the transverse block of the bow-piece. Both the chines and the clamps pass over the notches cut in the frames to receive them, but they are not yet bradded to them. Check the outer ends of the frames and see that they are at equal distance from the fore and aft center-line and parallel to each other. They must be square to the keel in both directions, vertically and transversely. If they are not, pull them so, and then drive one brad into each frame from the chines and clamps. Set the heads of the brads far enough into the wood to prevent hitting them with a chisel or plane. Use a small nail set for this work. Operation Six—Fig. 97: Be careful. Bevel the chines and clamps to receive the bottom, side-boards and deck. See Fig. 97. The portion of the clamps and chines extending beyond the dotted line in this figure must be cut away so these members line up with the frame line. Allas indicated on the starboard side of the figure where the planking is fitted. The best procedure for effecting this is as follows. Trim the chines and clamps locally in the way of the frames first, so that they will have the proper bevel. to line up with the frames. If the edge of a straightedge be laid transversely on the frame, and allowed to pass [117] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING * cramp”* 9, * conmin.c 20 Me 1S Cf euamp Bio. GORMINGTM”I9. CONMING 20. [118] “RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE over the keel and chine, or the chine and the clamp, it will touch evenly on all three members without showing a gap of light. When this has been done at each frame and the transom, finish the chines, clamps and keel for their full lengths. Check every now and then with a straightedge and when they are fair and true the grooves that were originally cut in the way of the frames will have disappeared and the entire surface will be flush. Operation Seven—Fig. 98: Fit and secure the sides, leave a little extra length and width to be finished later. The only place they must be accurately fitted at first is into the rabbet of the bow-piece. This must be a good fit because it shows and also helps to make the boat water-tight. When the fit is good, clamp the entire side in place with C clamps and again examine all parts of it, particularly the rabbet and all the faying surfaces. Make sure that it lies flat and flush on the frames, chine and clamps and if it is right, drive one brad, (part way only), through the side and into the transom and also one into the stem-piece. Note: Always plug a hole with a small wooden stick, dipped into waterproof glue, after removing a temporary brad. Finish the plug off flush with surface of wood after Next make several pencil marks on the glue is hard. the frame of the boat. These marks and the brads will help to get the plank back in the correct position when you have applied the glue and are ready to permanently secure the sides. Then remove the plank and apply the glue. Start to secure forward and work aft pushing the forward temporary brad in the hole [119 | MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING and drive it in first. Fasten the plank to the frames with C clamps until you brad it in place. Fit the after brad in place but do not drive it in yet. The plank may walk ait a little and it must be free to move a fraction of an inch or else you will have a bow in the plank which will not lay flat in one spot. The brads and fastenings will resemble Fig. 98, operation No. 7, when driven. Note how they are spaced. Re- peat this for the other side of the boat, then trim off the surplus material to suit the bevel of the chines, clamps and stern. The boat is now held quite rigidly and the holding board may be removed. The screw holes must, of course, be plugged with pine plugs, dipped into waterproof glue and trimmed off flush when the glue is hard. Up to this point the boat may be held in a vise as indicated in Fig. 93. Operation Eight—Fig. 99: Fit and secure the bot- tom in a manner similar to the sides. The bottom is in two pieces, split down the fore and aft center at the keel. There should be a fore and aft marked on the under side of the keel. center-line This line will be exactly 4 in. in from each outboard edge of the $ in. keel. The bottom boards should be trimmed so that when they are pressed down over the frames, their lower inboard edges will exactly match up with the fore and aft line on the keel, and when both the port and starboard bottom boards are fitted, their inboard edges will make good contact, in order to be watertight. After each bottom board fits, along the fore and aft line of the keel when the plank is pressed down over the frames, its forward edge must be trimmed to butt perfectly with the after edge of the bow-piece. It may be left a little longer where it { 120] RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE lands on the transom and chines and be trimmed, after gluing and securing. After both halves have been properly fitted and secured and when the glue is hard, carefully trim them along the bilge line until the outboard edge is true and at the same angle as the sides. Follow this also at the transom. Draw a fore and aft center line on the deck board and hold this board on the boat in the proper location. Mark in the side lines and transom line and also the shape of the cut-out for the cockpit. Drill a hole large enough to pass the blade of your scroll saw in and then saw it out nearly to the line. Finish to the line with a plane and sandpaper. Fit the carlings as indicated. Trim the outer boundary of the deck, but not to the line as this will be cut after securing to suit the exact shape and bevel of the boat. It will be noticed that the carlings are fitted intercostally between the frames, the carlings are for backing up the coamings when it is fitted. They may be fitted before the deck is secured in place and they have a slight bevel forward in order to give the coaming the proper tumble out. See Op- erations 8 and 9, Figs. 99 and 100. Operation Nine—Fig. 100: Be careful. Fit and se- cure the coamings with glue and brads to the carlings. Cut the butt of the port and starboard coamings forward, so that they come together in a flare when viewed from the side but in a perfectly straight line when viewed from forward. Trim the bow-piece off, forward, to conform to the line of the planked portion of the boat. The glued joint at the center will be a guide for a center line. This portion of the boat is cut with a slight hollow line. with a gouge. It can be done best Go carefully and make both sides [121] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING alike. Do not dig too deep. sandpaper. Finish up smooth with It is best to finish one side at a time and then make a pair of guide templates for cutting the other side. Fit and secure the half-round. These should be cut to the proper half-round cross section before fitting, leaving the faying edge smooth and flat to match up with the sides of the boat. It may be necessary to place the forward ends into boiling water before they are fitted in order to prevent breaking. Start securing forward and work aft, using brads only. Fit the top exactly flush with the top-side of the deck or leave it a shade above and then finish it flush with sandpaper. Slightly countersink the brad heads with a small nail set. Later on these will re- ceive putty. Operation Ten—Fig. 101: Make the rudder, as per dimensions, and hang it on the transom, as indicated. Complete metal fittings for the rudder will be avail- able at Boucher, Inc., if you desire to purchase them. The plan view of the complete boat, Fig. 103, and the SUGGESTION For USE OF CLAMPS: WHEN FITTING OPERATION NO.10. SIDES, BOT TONS FIND OTHER PARTS. Fig.ol. IFiG-102. [122] RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE profile, Fig. 104, show the power plant and fittings in their proper places. The other suggested fittings are also shown here. It will be noted that frames 6 and 7 are shaped to receive the boiler. This, of course, gives the forward and aft location of the same. The location of the engine and the blow torch are shown. Locking steering gear 26, cleats 27, chock 28, pro- peller 29, strut 30, shafting 31, shaft-tube and stuffing box 32, universal shaft coupling 33, thrust bearing 34, and thrust bearing collar 35 are all stocked by Boucher, Inc., and may be had for a comparatively small cost. The proper method of installing the shaft is as follows: First fit the palm of the shaft-tube and stuffing box to the underside of the boat in way of the out- board end of the shaft hole. Push the inboard end of the tube into the hole and if the latter is at the proper angle the palm of the tube will come flush with the bottom of the hull. Cover the faying surface of the palm and the hull with thick paint and push the palm home, securing it in place with countersunk brass screws. Be careful not to bend the tube because if it is not perfectly true it will bind the propeller shaft and make it hard to turn, Next put the propeller shaft into the tube and mount the strut on it as in- dicated on the profile. The strut is of soft brass and the legs may be spaced apart or pressed slightly together until it fits in the desired position. Be sure it is in the exact center and each leg is at an equal distance each side of the center line of the boat. Be sure also that the shaft is free to turn freely without binding in the least and then secure the palms with countersunk brass screws through the bottom of the [ 123 ] a jee a8 ed ¥y bees are z3 s 32 } ‘ 3 a = Fe fe z ay ue e@ Y w Zia i. >Eba sz Q@ew { a « a g [124] FiG -104. Se RACING HYDROPLANE—FRAMED TYPE boat. Be careful not to bend the strut or the shaft after they are secured in place. Remove the shaft and solder the propeller to the end of the shaft. This is done by scraping the end of the shaft and the inside of the hole in the propeller to bright metal. Then heat them both over an alcohol torch, sufficiently to melt electricians’ soft wire solder. Tin the end of the shaft and also the hole by wiping the end of the soldering wire over the hot metal of the shaft and wheel. Then heat it again and mount the shaft in the propeller hole, afterward allowing it to harden. The elec- tricians’ soldering wire usually has a resin flux inside of the wire which makes it hold. Build the motor bed up until the engine is at the same angle as the shaft. Fit the thrust bearing so that it lines up with the shaft. Then cut the shaft to the proper length so that when one element of the coupling (universal coupling) is slipped over the end of the engine drive shaft and the screw is set up, the shaft (propeller) is just long enough for the other element of the coupling when mounted on this shaft to engage the engine element of the coupling. In order that the thrust or forward push of the propeller does not come on the engine bearings, a small thrust collar, No. 35, is secured to the shaft just abaft of the thrust bearing and, in this manner, all that the engine is required to do is to turn the shaft. The engine bearings would be worn out quickly if this thrust came directly on them. Details and descriptions of the power plant are incorporated in a different chapter, [125] CHAPTER, x1 THIRTY-INCH POWER BOAT (Semi-Blocked Type) This chapter describes a thirty-inch power boat, which may be powered with either a steam boiler and a one-cylinder steam engine or a special spring motor which looks and performs exactly like a gasoline motor. This spring motor will run for five minutes and will drive the boat at about three miles an hour. It is equipped with a starting and stopping clutch lever. This is an ideal and reasonably priced boat and outfit. It has all the class and grace of family power boats of from 25 to 35 feet in length, and it is light and sturdy. The construction is the simplest possible and any amateur should have no trouble in building a creditable looking craft. The construction of this boat is exactly similar to that of all the semi-block types and particularly resembles the twenty-four-inch boat, semi-block type, except that the bottom block, piece No. 1, is hollowed out a little further aft. The dimensions, of course, are all different, but the description and procedure for building is identical. Therefore it is well to follow the instructions mentioned under the twenty-four-inch boat. The parts are all numbered the same and there should be no confusion. The steam power plant has been specially designed for this boat and its arrangement has been [ 126] a Fia-ios. /SP OPERATION: ah ¢4 SURED Hole *80TTOM~— FiG-10%. 4TH OPERATION FiG-10a SECUEING DOWEL-(B) Tig-109. 5” OPERATION STERN. bcos SR > a \e can TEMPO/THAY PHOULOS ee <7" — | 24°\°B 8G ca ea [127] es | 3 Pa \e tia aa . FIGS-110-111. 5TM awo7" OPERATIONS. COMPLETED BOTTOM BLOCK wit STEM STEAN & MOULOS tN PLACE STHOLERATION Fia-h3LOT! OPERATION. HTH OPERATION. Figs. FIG -116, J2INOPERATION Fig: COMPLETED BOAT EQUIPPED wiTH SPECIAL SPRING MOTOR. EQUIPPED WITH STERM POWER PLANT [129] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING shown. The cost of the spring motor is much less, of course, and installation is considerably simpler. The steam equipment will drive the boat about 54 miles an hour. The general chapters contain information on painting and finishing, gluing, bradding, soldering and every general point which should be known to do the job properly. You will note in this boat, which is longer than the twenty-four-inch craft, that the shaft tube, piece 19, is different. It has a palm which comes fastened to the tube for securing it to the bottom of the boat, in order to steady the shaft better. The installation of this fitting is as follows: Push the inboard end into the shaft tube hole, previously bored on the proper angle, through the bottom of the boat. Then place some thick paint, or white-lead in oil, on the faying surface of the palm before it is pushed up against the bottom of the boat and made fast with four small brass countersunk head screws. Be sure that the tube is exactly parallel with the fore and aft center line of the boat as viewed from the bottom up. The white-lead helps to make the joint between the boat and the metal palm water-tight. The operation of construction 1 to 12 inclusive are similar to operations 1 to 12 for the twenty-four-inch boat. The corresponding figures 105 to 118 inclusive, are necesarily different for consecutive numbering. [ 130] CHAPTER XIII TWENTY-FOUR-INCH POWER BOAT (Semi-Blocked Type) This chapter deals with the construction of a twenty-four-inch power boat of the semi-block type to be powered with a special spring motor which looks like a gasoline engine and which will run for about five minutes, driving the boat about three miles an hour. This spring motor is equipped with starting and stopping clutch lever. It is an ideal and cheap boat and outfit for the younger builders, yet it has all the class and grace of the family power boat of from fifteen to twenty feet in length. It is light and sturdy. Arrangements have been made with the firms listed to supply the special spring motor and metal fittings complete and all of the partly finished wooden parts for those desiring them. The completely dimensioned progressive pictures, however, will enable those desiring to do so to make all of the wooden parts themselves, The partly finished material referred to is accurately cut by machinery and the specifications of the wood call for the finest pattern-makers’ kiln-dried material. The parts may be obtained partly finished as follows: Piece 1—Bottom block, shaped in plan view and elevation as indicated in the cut, operation No. 1, Fig. 119. [131] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Piece 2—Stem piece, cut to proper length and end bevelled, bored with a +in. dowel hole. Fig. 125. Piece 3—Dowel turned to proper diameter and with sufficient material to cut from. Piece 4—Stern piece or transom, material to cut from. Pieces 5 and 6—Sides, steam bent to shape and partly fabricated. Piece 7—Deck, partly cut to shape. Piece 8—Coaming, steam bent to shape, ready to finish. Piece 9—Rudder, material to cut from. Piece 10—Motor base-blocks, material to cut from. Piece 11—Tiller rack, material to cut from. Parts 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 may be purchased complete if desired. All other parts ex- cept the motor, piece 21, and propeller, piece 16, may be made, if desired, from dimensions given. Those desiring to make parts 1 to 11, inclusive, from the rough material will find full dimensions on the drawings of these parts. It is well, at this point, to read all the general chapters as a great deal of necessary information will be found there. Operation One—Fig. 119: Lay out the bottom block, piece No. 1. Mark the position lines from the moulds by the dimensions given. Mark the fore and aft center line on both top and bottom of the block. The position lines for moulds must be at right angles to the fore and aft center line. Scribe a line 2 in. down from the top edge of the block on both sides as shown. Lay outa line on top of the block for the cutout for the motor. [ 132] FiG- 119. OUTLINE FOR CUT OUT "MOTOR. 7S! OPERATION. FOR. x POSITION LINES FOR MOLDS. TOP NIE OF 7 77-75 FiG -120. 2° OPERATION. BoTrToM PROPERLY BEVELED. Berton Wik wi PIECE®f, USE STRAIGHT EDGE AS GUIDE ON FINY GROSS SECTION S32’ OPERATION. UT FiG-12t. eum om FOR O9T MOTOR eet PILOPERATION. FiG~122. Fig-123.- SZOPERATION. ram a) H 24 a! 2a STEANPIECER. &, oO , 22%216 2Ye 2% = TembonARyB. [133] eB TEMPORARY-C: MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Operation Two—Fig. 120: Bevel the underside of the bottom block, piece No. 1, from the center line to the scribed lines on the sides of the block as indicated, using a straightedge as a guide in any cross section. See cut. Do the cutting with a small plane. Be careful not to cut away either center line or scribed lines, Operation Three—Fig. 121: Carve cut out for the motor on top of the bottom block to the line previously marked. Leave a wall } in. thick all the way around. This may be done with a gouge, but be careful not to cut the walls thinner than + in. Operation Four—Fig. 122: Set stem piece, No. 2, in place, and continue the hole into the bottom block, but not all the way through. Secure the stem piece, No. 2, in place with the dowel and glue it. Drive in one small brad, as shown, to hold it until the glue sets. Use waterproof glue only. Operation Five—Fig. 123: Make stern piece, No. 4 (transom), of #5 in. thick mahogany to the dimensions specified under this operation. Also make the two temporary moulds, using any handy material for them. Be careful to lay these pieces out accurately to the dimensions as given. First lay out a vertical center line on each mould, then drawa fine, sharp line exactly at right angles to it; the latter line in each case will be the top of the mould. Then measure down the depth shown for the bottom. Have the top and bottom lines of the moulds parallel to each other and exactly at right angles to the vertical center line. Then lay off the half-breadth of each at the top and bottom and connect the points carefully with a fine, sharp line. Saw them out and plane or sandpaper [ 134] TWENTY-FOUR-INCH POWER BOAT ONS. GI“AND 74 OPERATI ee a . FIGS, 124-125 \ EVEL is S$ \ : Os Fe LINE WITH EDGE OF MOULDS x iL ae a" TEMPORARY EASTENING. WEW OF COMPLETED BOTTOM BLOCK WITH STERN PIECE FIND TEMPOPAALY MOULDS IN PLACE. STM OPERATION. £17 SIDE PLANKS TO BOrTOM BLOCK AND INTO JOG AT BO: 97! OPEFATION. FiIG-i2% TOP VIEW OF OFCK @ SIDE VIEW OF DECK [135] ‘ v l MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING exactly to the line. Be accurate in laying these moulds out because the proper shape of the boat de- pends upon them. One-half-inch thick material will be best for these temporary moulds. Operations Six and Seven—Figs. 124 and 125: Fit the stern piece (transom) and the temporary moulds in their proper places with each vertical center line of the moulds exactly matching up with the fore and aft center line of the bottom block, and exactly over the transverse station lines on the block. If they fit, glue and brad the transom piece, using waterproof glue, as shown in operations 6 and 7. The other two moulds are only temporary and two brads driven part way in each as shown will hold. These brads will afterwards be pulled out and the holes plugged with a match stem cut to size and glued in place when the sides are fitted and the moulds removed. Bevel off the sides of the bottom block as shown, in line with the sides of the stern piece, and the tempor- ary moulds. Operation Eight—Fig. 126: Carefully fit the sides, pieces 5 and 6, to the bottom block into the jog at the bow, the stern piece, along the edge of the bottom block and at the stem. Press the sides firmly into place and make sure that they lie perfectly flat and fair and that the faying surface is perfect, otherwise the boat will leak. Trim carefully. Leave the side planks a little long at each end and a little wide at the top and bottom, as this will be planed off later when the glue is hard. brad them in place. If the fit is perfect, glue and Fit and secure one side at a time and let the glue harden over night. Then trim at the bow so that the other side plank can lap and lie flat [ 136 ] TWENTY-FOUR-INCH POWER BOAT over the stem piece. After the glue is hard, trim aft to suit the stern piece and forward to suit the stem. Do the same thing at the bottom to suit the bevel of the bottom block. Then trim the top flush with the top of the stem piece, temporary moulds and stern piece. Drive a pair of brads, as shown, part way into the temporary moulds through the sides, but remove these and plug the holes when the moulds are re- moved. Operation Nine—Fig. 127: Glue the halves of the deck together and fasten the beams and seam strips with glue and brads as shown. This deck may be given a slight crown if desired. Operation Ten—Fig. 128: Remove the temporary moulds and glue and brad the deck in place. Trim off the superfluous material which extends beyond the sides more than $in. This 4 in. excess should be left to represent the half-round moulding. Operation Eleven—Fig. and fasten them in 129: place Fit the coamings with glue and brads. Slightly countersink all brads and sandpaper and fin- ish them smooth. Operation Twelve—Fig. 130: Make and secure the rudder as shown, then make the tiller rack and se- cure it in place. Bend the tiller to fit in the rack and fit the tiller into the rudder exactly as shown. After the rudder is shaped and fitted it should be removed from the boat and finished (painted or varnished) separately. Fit the motor base blocks and then paint and finish the boat. Force the brass shaft tube, piece 19, into the slanting shaft hole through the bottom of the boat. Fit and secure the strut, piece 17. Fit the cleat, piece 22, and solder the propeller to the [ 137] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING OPERATION LOM Tig-12a. Fig-129, LLM OPERATION ToP ViEW oF COMPLETED 1272 OPERATION FIG*130. a r --3 4 ee , TOP View ear = L FO" at SIDE View % Fh YOTOR BASE BLOCK ZPIECES Fig-13h “COMPLETED ce 4 BoAT~ F- SHOWING INSTALLATION OF f-£.8. SPECIAL SPRING MOTOR. a qi yee TWENTY-FOUR-INCH POWER BOAT shaft. Cut the shaft to its proper length to suit the motor, and the boat is then ready to run. One more thing which is important. The shaft must be lined up perfectly because it has a bearing in the shaft strut, piece 17, and in the shaft tube, 19, and at the motor. If there is a bend in the shaft it will be hard to turn and much power will be lost. careful not to bend the shaft. Be First push the shaft tube into the hole in the bottom of the boat, it must fit snugly, and then insert the shaft and note if it turns perfectly free. It must turn just as freely when permanently fitted in the other bearings. In lining up the motor or engine on the bearers arrange it so that the shaft, when pushed up through the tube toward the motor, lines up perfectly with the connection on the power plant without forcing the shaft to right or left or up or down. Then mount the strut, piece 17, on the outboard portion of the shaft and slide it fore and aft until it touches the bottom of the boat the proper distance from the stern. shaft to cause the least binding. Do not force the The strut arms may be slightly bent apart or pushed together in order to make the strut shorter or longer as required. Press the palms of the strut firmly against the bottom of the boat before securing, and when you have found the proper place to secure it, press it in place firmly and rotate the shaft by hand, noting whether or not it is perfectly free. there is any binding. A slight shift must be made if Be sure to have the shaft di- rectly under the fore and aft center-line of the boat. The propeller and rudder must both be located centrally when viewing the finished boat from aft. [ 139J MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Read the chapter on power plants for general hints relative to the installation and care of them. The subject is covered in a comprehensive manner and the various forms of power plants suitable for all classes of model boats are considered. These include one-, two- and four-cylinder steam engines, also the boilers and gasoline burners and various small fittings and equipment needed as power plant auxiliaries to enable them to work efficiently. [140] CHAPTER XIV FORTY-INCH FRAMED AND PLANKED POWER BOAT The forty-inch framed and planked power boat is the most advanced type of construction undertaken in this book. Lovers of boats may have all the thrill of building a large boat without the cost as the method is exactly the same. This boat will take any of the power plants mentioned and may be finished in almost any type of large boat. Several suggestions are shown in the il- lustrations, Figs. 133 to 138 inclusive. Arrangements have been made with the manufacturers and many of the parts for this hull may be purchased partly shaped. For instance, the oak frames, steam bent to shape, stern and transom partly shaped, ete, For those desiring to do the entire job themselves there are ample dimensions and cuts to work from. See the chapters on model making, painting, finishing, ete., for information in connection with steam bending and all the other operations not specifically mentioned in this description. Operation One—Fig. 139: Chamfer the upper edge of the keel at one end as shown. Operation Two—Fig. 140: Fasten the stern and deadwood to the keel with brads. stations on the keel. [ 141] Mark the frame MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING FiG = 133 hed TUG BORT Fia-134_1 YACWTS LAUNCH Fig-13s_| HUNTING CABIN CRUISER “etasetahf Suen a COASTWISE STEAMER 7 RAISED DECK CRUISER Fig-136_ ena STERM WRCHT [ 142] FRAMED AND PLANKED POWER BOAT ‘JFoperntion ae . G7. 8p ‘al 2MPOPERATION Tig- 140. : Be ae ae 8 ty ci ic re £OrT t ee) y re Bn ran was * ae FRLSE STEM. resist T 9 @ EE 7 6 5 (e RL 2 : r il Ea eaeeae oe oe ee ae Se Ee oe aes 2] SRPOPERATION Fig- 142. Ut OPERATION FLOORS ORK. a SMOPERRTION [| NOTE =) -R&sameew_ro eur_me coarcs ®proMe put rue FAnmes *172TM9 ForwarD AFT OF MARKS OF MARKS ON 6 > at FIG139. THE ON KEEL, WITH THE FLOORS FORWARD SIDE” OF THE FRUMES OW THE ON KEEL AFTER SIDE wita THE OF THE Fiooms FAHMES. x MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Operation Three—Fig. 141: Fasten the transom to the after end of the deadwood by the small knee block which is cut to the proper angle to give the transom a slight inclination aft at the top. Operation Four—Fig. 142: You have either bent your frames to the proper shape shown by the full- sized sections, Fig. 143 (Plate 3),* or else you have purchased them already bent. Put the frames together in pairs so that they fit perfectly to the shape shown. They should be held to shape by temporary cross pawls or braces across the top and permanent floors at the bottom. Mark the center line on the cross pawls and on the floors and the sheer height on top of the frames as given in the full-size sections. Operation Five—Fig. 144: Set each frame up at its proper place along the keel by driving a wire brad through the center of the floor board and into the keel. Operation Six—Fig. 145: Fasten a wide strip of wood, about one inch wide, from the stern to the transom over the top of cross pawls so that the center marks are all in a straight line from end to end and all evenly spaced and plumb. Operation Seven—Fig. 146: Shape two planks, one for each side at the top, their upper edges to be a straight line and their lower edges shaped as shown. Bevel off the edges of the transom and stern so that the plank will fit fair against them. Then fasten these two upper planks to the frames with wire brads, keeping the upper edges true to the sheer marks on the frames. * Folding plate in pocket. [ 144] FRAMED AND PLANKED POWER BOAT Fig > i14s- GY OPERATION FIG +146 i OPERATION vrs REESE ERE Ee 4 r — atk is FIG -147, STOPERATION ¥FiG-149. LOU! OPERRTION . a DECK BER Ot OPERATION FRLSE STEM ——sIEm__ [145] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Operation Eight—Fig. 147: Fit the lower edge of the garboard, this is the lowest strake of planking nearest to the keel, leaving the upper edge straight. Then fit the second plank to the edge of the first. Taper the second strake so that it is narrowest at the ends. If this is not done the planks will fill up at the ends and there will be an unplanked space near the middle. Taper each plank at the ends. There should be ten planks on each side. If you will divide each full-size template of the frames, Fig. 142, along the edge, into ten equal spaces, you will find the spaces at the middle frames will be wider than at the ends, because the expanded length of these frames is longer than the ones nearer the ends. By dividing the frames, the width of the planks at each frame may be ascertained. ; Operation Nine—Fig. 148: Trim off the extra length of planks forward flush with the forward edge of stern and then secure the false stern with wire brads. Operation Ten—Fig. 149: Remove the temporary cross pawls and trim the frames at their upper ends to the sheer line and then fasten the clamps in place with wire brads. Fit and fasten also about three deck beams, located to suit the type of boat you elect to build. Operation Eleven: Finish the hull smooth with sandpaper after slightly countersinking the brad heads and if there are small cracks here and there where the seams of the planks do not butt together tightly apply some shellac with a brush or a match stem and then, while the shellac is still wet, sandpaper in the vicinity and the wooddust will mix with [ 146] FRAMED AND PLANKED POWER BOAT the shellac and fill up the seam so that it will be water- tight when painted and finished. Where the seam is too wide to be effectively closed by this method, there is a preparation known as Plastic Wood, which is a form of wood fiber bearing putty which hardens in a short time so it becomes like wood and can be finished by the same methods. Of course, workmanship that would leave gaps or seams of any moment is a mark of a slipshod mechanic and the model builder who is proud of his handicraft will match the joints accurately. [ 147] CHAPTER XV TWENTY-INCH V-TYPE CAT BOAT This boat, Fig. 150, is typical of the famous v-type cat boats. The construction is simple and extremely light and the designer has made use of the semi-block form of construction. The hull is entirely of wood, built up exactly like a large boat. The form lends itself to seaworthiness and makes the boat extremely stiff in a strong breeze. This boat is designed to make use of a patented sail shifting device which enables the amateur skipper to shift the fore and aft position of his sails. This is a desirable feature as it gives the boat a great advantage over another boat with which it may be racing and which is not so equipped. This feature and its advantages have been described in the general chapters of this book. Before proceeding with the construction of this boat it is a good plan to read all of the general chapters as they treat in detail upon each and every feature of the construction. Your boat will not be as successful if you omit reading these chapters. Sailing, after all, is where the real skill of boating comes in and as much can be learned from these little boats as in actually sailing the larger boats. The bottom block, piece 1, Fig. 151, should be of pattern-makers’ white-pine, kiln-dried. The stem piece, piece 2, Fig. 155, should be of the same material, [148] TWENTY-INCH V-TYPE CAT BOAT SHEET RAYCLLER, al een LN iONFIN. OR.ae a ravi feta neg: Zt ta 5) LEAD EFL. (34.3 [ 149] 1″ h ==20″CAT BOAT TAGSO MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING as is the stern, piece 4, also. The temporary moulds may be of any material, preferably some soft wood. The side, pieces 5 and 6, Fig. 158, may be either of thin white-pine or cedar of the best quality, kiln-dried. They may also be of three-ply birch veneer made up with waterproof glue. The deck, piece 7, Fig. 160, may be of the same material as the sides. The deck beams, 8, are of white-pine and the mast, spars, bowsprit (mast-step), spruce. The rudder and tiller rack are of mahogany. The fin may be of aluminum, brass, or galvanized iron, but the weight at the bottom of this should be of lead. Arrangements have been made with firms to supply the parts either partly or completely finished, ready to assemble, for anyone desiring to procure them. The materials may be also purchased in the rough from any lumber dealer and the builder may shape them himself from the dimensions as given in the drawings. Operation One—Fig. 151: Lay out the bottoni block and scribe a line 3 in. from the edge all the way around. Mark the position lines of the moulds on the top-side of the bottom block, piece 1. Shape the bottom block to the dimensions given on the three views of this first operation. On the side edges of the block scribe a line $ in. down from the top edge on each side. Draw in a fore and aft center-line on both the top and bottom of the block and, in addition, on the bottom surface, draw in the floor lines 4 in. each side of the center-line. This leaves a flat surface on which to fasten the fin keel. Operation Two—Fig. 152: Bevel the underside of the bottom block from floor lines to the scribed lines [ 150] TWENTY-INCH V-TYPE CAT BOAT | Yr BOT7Tom VEW OF BOTTOM LOCK 2L! OPEAATION. Fie-1s2 Se MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING JOR! #e Op. Fig-1S3. Fig -1\SS me STA OPERATION. -—4-—- p—– 74″ i f H a. Ws jr [STERN 15″ I \ BE vem moven.2] fre . 6%” Fe aa \= FiG-ise. Gt OPERATION. © (152 ] TWENTY-INCH V-TYPE CAT BOAT on the sides. Use a straightedge as a guide on any cross section. If you make the bottom block your- self, be careful to cut the landing forward, to receive the notched out side planks. This work must be done carefully and accurately as the water tightness of the boat depends largely upon this feature. Have the sides true, to insure a good tight faying surface between the sides and the bottom. Operation Three—Fig. 153: Carve out the upper surface of the bottom block to the lines scribed $ in. from the edge. Carve the bottom block to about a 4 in. wall thickness all over except the outer edge and stern. This work may be accomplished best with a gouge. Operation Four—Fig. 154: Make the stem piece as shown and secure it in place with waterproof glue and a dowel. Operation Five—Fig. 155: Make the stern piece and temporary moulds B and C to the dimensions given under that operation. Operation Six—Fig. 156: Fasten the stern piece and temporary moulds in place. Note that the stern piece is secured permanently with brads and glue while the temporary moulds B and C are bradded only. Operation Seven—Fig. 157: Bevel off the sides of the bottom block in line with the sides of the stern piece and temporary moulds. Operation Eight—Fig. 158: Shape the sides, pieces 5 and 6, as indicated and steam bend them to suit the form of the boat. See the general chapter on model making for steam bending. Fit the sides carefully in place, making sure that the faying surfaces are per[153] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING 1H! OPERATION. 6 JOL? OPERATION. FiG-)6o. [ 154] TWENTY-INCH V-TYPE CAT BOAT ts : T oe i. ff aL HoLes FoR Stays” * Ig > « PXUUTZ) Cooneemnes 9 TILLER TILE ERS PACK. AGCKS =i SS Ty TS; ead bBo Fig-163 ns, penn mon. 8 He gh eel VA ape . he bree A Tette | on ee | = =| “Ye” mas! Vena ——t 4 a i Lae ee MAST [155] STEP _F\G-164> fol MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING fect, then glue and brad them permanently. The temporary brads in the moulds are not driven all the way in and are later removed, the holes being plugged with a match stem and glued. Operation Nine—Fig. 159: Make the deck-beams to the same crown as the stern piece and secure them in place with one brad each. Remove the temporary moulds and place the upper edge of the side planks to line up with the deck-beams. Bevel the lower edge of the side planks to conform to the bottom bevel. Operation Ten—Fig. 160: Fasten the deck in place and smooth off the edges. Fasten the fin in place with small brass screws as shown in Fig. 161. The spars, mast step, tiller, rack, rudder, etc., are made and installed as indicated in Figs. 162, 163 and 164. The sails and rigging are as shown. See the general chapters for spar making, sail making, painting, sailing, etc. [ 156] CHAPTER XVI TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS This Star class boat is the latest product of the Boucher shops and represents twenty-two years of study and experience in making marine models. It embodies absolute completeness and accuracy and yet is so simplified that an amateur can put it together and turn out a good job. The completed model represents a faithful and properly proportioned reproduction of the famous in- ternational Star class racing yacht on a scale of 11 in. to one foot and will give you as big a thrill in racing against other Star class models as the owners get from racing the full-sized Star boats. In order to obtain the best results the building in- struction should be read over thoroughly before you commence any of the work. If you carry out these instructions carefully, the result will be a perfect sailing model which you will be proud to race against other Star class models. FIRST AND ALWAYS—DO NOT HURRY! It takes time to do a good job. Read carefully all the general chapters of the book before proceeding with this construction. Much necessary information is contained there which cannot be detailed here. Arrangements have been made for those who so de[157] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING sire to purchase parts for this boat partly shaped and made from specially selected material, at about the same price which one would have to pay for the best grade of rough materials. The partly finished parts will be supplied as fol- lows. Bottom-block, shaped as indicated, Fig. 165. Transom and bulkhead, 1, 2, 3, cut to shape as shown in Fig. 166. Stem, piece 2, cut to shape as shown. Side planks, pieces 3 and 4, steam bent and partly shaped. Deck, material to cut from. Rudder, piece 5, shaped and secured to the rudder stock ready to install. Rudder tube, piece cut to length, threaded at one end. Spars rounded to their greatest diameter. Balloon sail cloth, rigging, fastenings, glue, etc. Those desiring to make all the parts complete will find no difficulty in doing so as all the dimensions are clearly given. The bottom-block, bulkheads, transom and sides are to be of pattern-makers’ white-pine, kiln-dried. The deck is of three-ply birch veneer. The stem piece and bowsprit are of mahogany and the spars of spruce. The bottom-block should be a straight pine board 30 in. long, 6 in. wide and 2 in. thick when dressed. Mark the sheer line and keel line on both fore and aft edges and cut neatly to the lines. Then mark the fore and aft center-line on both the top and bottom surfaces and also bulkhead station lines on the top and sides. Then lay out the half-breadth lines, all from the dimensions given, and saw out the shape of the bottom-block as in the plan view. Next scribe a line 4 in. down from the top surface of the block on both sides and stern. Bevel the block from the scribed [158] TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS [ 159] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING lines on the sides to the fore and aft center-line on the bottom. Do not cut the lines away, but cut just to them. The width of the bottom-block is the same dimension at the several bulkhead station lines, and the transom line as the bulkheads and the transom pieces are themselves at the bottom, and the height of the sides equal to a line measured from the scribed line on the bottom-block to the top of the particular bulkhead or transom at the sides, all made to the dimensions given. Leave a little extra material on the sides. This may be trimmed after fitting. The sides are 4 in. thick pine, steam bent to the shape required. See the general chapters for the method of steam bending, etc. Weare now ready to start on the same footing with those who have purchased the partly shaped parts. First Operation Nail the stem to the bottom-block, being sure that the outside surfaces of the stem are flush with the edge of the bottom-block. Use #in. brads. (Fig. 167.) [ 160 ] TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS Second Operation Fasten the bulkheads and transom to the bottomblock. Be sure that the bulkheads are properly Placed according to numbers and that the ends are flush or even with the edge of the bottomblock; if they are not exactly flush, use a plane. (Fig. 168.) Fig-16é8. Third Operation Secure the side planks to the stem. Locate the side planks to the stem so that all the edges are fairly flush and put in screw A, which is 3 in. long. (Fig. 169.) MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING Fourth Operation Bend the planks in gradually toward the stern and if necessary swing the side planks around the screw A until edges of the planks are flush with the bottom of the bottom-block. Hold the side planks and bottom-block together with string and then put in the other two screws through the side planks into the stem and then nail the planks into the bottom-block, commencing at the stem and working toward the stern. Use the $ in. brads about 4 in. apart, also drive two or three brads through the planks into the bulkheads. The string may now be removed from the stern so that all edges which do not come perfectly flush together may be smoothed down with a plane. Now that the hull is completed, before putting on the deck, give the whole inside a coat of paint. Be sure to rub the paint thoroughly into all the seams in order to insure the hull being watertight. This also preserves it. [ 162] TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS The side planks, bulkheads, transom should be planed evenly and flush. and stem Put a slight bevel on top edges of planks in line with bulk- heads. (Fig. 170.) Fifth Operation PUTTING ON THE DECK In order to properly locate the deck, the rudder sleeve (the small brass tube) must first be screwed into the bottom-block from the inside and until the tube just projects through the bot- tom. (See illustration No. 6.) (Fig. 169.) Now you can put paint on the upper edges of the side planks, transom and stem just before plac- ing the deck, in order to insure its being watertight. FIa- 391. OROP OF SOLDER THLER: RYLBER OM | | RU NOES FSeREW YORE og MSERU t Roppey Bottom Block | Place the deck on the hull with a hole in the deck directly over the rudder sleeve and the pointed end of the deck central with the stem. brads at stem and stern on the Drive the center line, (points A), then press the deck down to the hull (Fig. 171), amidships, and drive the 4 in. brads [ 163] ‘MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING through the deck into the side planks, commencing amidships, (points B and C), alternately on each side and alternately towards each end, (points D, E, F, and G), about 1 in. apart. When all the brads have been put in, the edges of the deck may be made flush with the sides and stern witha plane. (Fig. 172.) Sixth Operation APPLYING FIN KEEL The location for the fin keel is marked on the underside of the bottom-block. Secure it to the hull exactly on the center-ridge, with } in. screws through the holes in the fin, into the bottomblock and with the projecting end of the bulb pointing aft. Be sure to drive the screws in as far as they will go. The hull has now reached a stage where it is advisable to think of the final appearance. Go over all the brads and screws, driving both a little be[ 164 } TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS low the surface and then plane and sandpaper the hull all over with No. 0 sandpaper. Apply a priming coat of paint, (any color), to the hull only, and allow it to dry thoroughly, then fill up the slight indentations with putty. should be varnished, not painted. The deck Fig-t93. SHIL SHIFTING DEVICE eS a ae 10% ax, a =e t me Seventh Operation SPARS Shape up the sail shifting device according to the _ sketch. (Fig. 173.) Shape up the mast and boom to conform with the dimensions on the sketch. In doing this hold the piece by the butt end and lay it ona table. Using the plane, start tapering on four sides. When this is done the spar will be square at the small end. Then make it eight-sided and then round, finally sandpapering it smooth. The sketch shows clearly the shape of the end of the mast which is to be set in the sail shifting device. Put on the screw eyes and ferrule as indicated on the sketch. (Fig. 174.) Painting Choose whatever colors you desire and apply three thin coats to the hull and keel. The best results [ 165 ] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING are obtained by using flat or Japan paint, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly and then rubbing it over lightly with fine sandpaper. After the last coat is thoroughly dry, varnish the whole hull, keel, spars and sail shifting device with two coats of spar varnish. Fia- 14. -e—— — 30 Ue es =« a> £= ~BOOM= — As mE Sag =MAST.~ 27%” __ ME aa eG” ng =e CLERT ) iy = 3 3%, a s =JIBBOOM~ Eighth Operation RUDDER Put the rudder in place and put the tiller on with the hooked end towards the stern (see sketch No. 171.). The tiller should be fastened in the slot on the rudder post with a drop of solder. If you have no soldering facilities, any tinsmith or radio repairman can do it for you. SAILS Hem the sails so that they will, when finished, be according to the sketch. Cut out the printed stars and sew them opposite each other in the position indicated in the sketch of the sails. (Fig. 175.) | 166J TWENTY-EIGHT-INCH STAR CLASS POSITION OF DECK FITTINGS (Fig. 176) RIGGING PLAN Sketch Showing Rigging in Detail (Fig. 177) SAILING The patented sail shifting device permits you to shift both sails to suit the strength of the wind, thereby obtaining a balance of the sails to the hull and thereby keeping the model on its course. If it is blowing hard shift the device forward, if blowing light, the device aft. When sailing before the wind, let the sheet well out and hook [ 167 ] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING the ring over the after end of the tiller. The pull of the sheet will turn the rudder enough to keep the boat on its course. When sailing close hauled and the sails are properly balanced to the hull, the ring may be removed from the tiller. Sometimes better results are obtained by leaving the ring on the end of the sheet hooked on the tiller. You have no doubt enjoyed building this scale model, but additional pleasure and excitement will come in racing it against competitors who have built the same boat. [ 168| CHAPTER XVII THIRTY-INCH SLOOP, MARCONI RIGGED The lines or form of this boat were designed by a well-known Naval Architect and were chosen, after many races between different models of the same size, as the fastest and best adapted for all around sailing It is also one of the best from the stand- and racing. point of construction. The best results, however, cannot be obtained unless the hull is properly and carefully shaped with both sides absolutely alike, exactly to the form of the moulds, and dug out with care to an even thickness of one-quarter of an inch or less. Arrangements have been made with this boat, similar to the other boats, by which those wishing to do so may purchase the parts, partly finished, at a price equal to what one would have to pay for the best pattern-makers’ kiln-dried pine when bought in small quantities. The semi-finished parts come with the hull, roughed out and glued similar to the cuts, Figs. 180-181. The fin and lead bulb come properly shaped, ready to attach. Material for the deck, the spars, turned round to their greatest diameter, die-cut stiff paper templates for trimming the sides to the proper shape and fastenings and sail cloth are also supplied. Figures 178 (Plate 4)* and 179 give dimensions in ample detail for those desiring to construct the entire * Folding plate in pocket. [ 169 ] [170] THIRTY-INCH SLOOP MARCONI RIGGED boat themselves from unfinished material. The following preliminary work is necessary if these parts are to be made by the builder. The boat is constructed in two lifts of the thickSecure two boards, pattern-makers’ best ness shown. kiln-dried pine, 31 in. long, 74 in. wide and 12 in. thick, dressed. Mark a fore and aft center-line on the top, bottom and ends of each board, also the transverse frame stations as indicated at three-inch cen- ters. Mark the cut out for the top lift and saw it out with a compass saw. If the material is nicely dressed, next glue the top block to the bottom one with waterproof glue. Line up the center-lines and frame lines accurately on each block. Mark the profile of the boat, from the figures given, on both side faces of [171] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING the blocks and saw neatly to the lines. Mark the new frame or station lines on the top, the old ones having been cut away when the sheer line was cut. Lay out the half-breadths on the proper stations from the fig- ures given and cut both sides accurately and neatly to the line. The model will now appear as in the fig- ures shown in operations 1 and 2. We are now ready to start in on an equal footing with those who buy the semi-shaped parts. Operation One—Fig. 180: BE CAREFUL! Place the block model in a vise as shown in Fig. 180. Number the station marks on the block com- mencing forward 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., to correspond with the numbers on the paper templates or moulds. Smooth the sides of the block with a small plane to [172] THIRTY-INCH SLOOP MARCONI RIGGED the line drawn on the upper part of the block. This is the exact shape of the finished model at the deck. For convenience in handling the block for shaping the exterior of the hull, screw a cleat or block of wood, one inch square by six inches long on the bottom of the inside of the block. =fa”” 182. | aa =e. SS Operation Two—Fig. 181: DO NOT HURRY! Turn the model upside down and screw it in the vise as shown in Fig. 181. First: smooth off the flat portion of the bottom of the block so that parallel lines may be drawn on each side of the center line, 3°5 in. out from the center, making a total width of 3 in. This space is to be left flat so that the angle pieces which will be attached to fin-keel may be secured. As an additional aid for locating the templates for shaping the outside of the hull, the stations, marked on [173] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING the deck are to be transferred to their proper positions to the bottom and side of the block and numbered as shown. Operation Three—Fig. 182: The block is now ready for shaping the outside of the hull. A flat one- inch chisel or a chisel gouge can now be used to shape the exterior of the hull by gradually rounding off the sharp corners to fit to the templates. For instance, section 5 on the hull is to be cut down so that template 5 will fit fairly close, then sections 4, 2 and so Fig. 183. on until the hull is shaped up to fit reasonably well on all of the templates. Of course, the process is to be repeated for both sides of the hull and should proceed carefully so that in roughly shaping the hull to the templates you will not cut off too much. Operation Four—Fig. 183: After the hull has been shaped to the moulds or templates on both sides, use [174] THIRTY-INCH SLOOP MARCONI RIGGED a small plane, set fine, for taking off thin shavings and gradually a little at a time bring the form of hull down to the moulds EXACTLY. The exterior of the hull is now ready to be sandpapered. Use a coarse sandpaper, about number 1, and then finish with finer sandpaper, number 0. Operation Five—Fig. 184: Now that the exterior of the hull has been shaped the work of gouging out the inside may proceed. Remove the cleat, which is now of no further use. Place the model in the vise right side up, but be sure not to tighten the vise too much. Drawa parallel line to the outside of the hull about % in. from the outer edge. This is to be a pre- liminary guide to prevent digging out too much. Scooping out a hull should proceed carefully for the reason that if you attempt to take out too much at [175] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING OPERRAT ont 6 * Fig-18s. CONT TCU te OPERATION®9S. rig-1p8, / MEUM TRAVELLER, [176] THIRTY-INCH SLOOP MARCONI RIGGED jh – e rE Syceeeia6 ST 1 sieeve poy” Top MAST. ees (ee 4 We Boom We ra a 1g. BOON we u 2 as LOWE MAST 29″ [177] ee SES MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING AT S20T TO CLEAT ALUIAAD£ASTEM STAABOAHP SOE ON T OE.MAS 8s Sag gegeeas SLE MARCOM) RIGGED SLOOP SIO” OVERALL Fig- 190. [178] THIRTY-INCH SLOOP MARCONI RIGGED once you are apt to cut all the way through. The hull should be scooped out to an even thickness of about 4 inch but of course the thinner the hull the better the model will sail on account of the reduced weight. Operation Six—Fig. 185: Make both deck beams to the proper crown. Cut notches in the hull and fit the beams into them. Bevel the upper edges of the hull to line up with these deck beams. Operation Seven—Fig. 186: Cut the deck to about the shape required and secure it in place with wire brads. Trim off the edges flush with the sides of the boat. Before fastening the deck down give the inside of the boat and the under side of the deck a coat of paint. Operation Eight—Fig. 187: Fasten angle pieces to the fin with brass rivets. Make these rivets from brass wire. Secure the fin to the hull with 3 in. countersunk head brass screws. The fin is made from a piece of 22 gauge galvanized iron to the dimensions shown, and a lead bulb, as indicated, is secured at the lower edge. Operation Nine—Fig. 188: Drill the hole for the rudder-stock tube 43 in. from the stern and vertical to the deck. Cut the rudder-stock tube to its proper length and screw it in place. Make it a tight fit by the use of a little thick paint. The rudder is made and installed as shown. Operation Ten—Fig. 189: Make the spars and other fittings, following the dimension and drawings. Operation Eleven—Fig. 190: This drawing shows the completed boat with sails and rigging. For paint- ing and finishing see the chapter devoted to that subject. [179] CHAPTER XVIII THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING SLOOP AND SCHOONER These two boats, the thirty-six-inch racing sloop and the thirty-six-inch racing schooner, are the last word in scale model racing yachts. The hulls are of the deep keel type designed for fast sailing in any The beautiful hulls and well-balanced rigs make them, without doubt, the most atkind of weather. tractive models ever put on the market. The patented sail shifting device and the nickel-plated bronze fittings put these two boats in a class by themselves. The sails are Ratsey design. The hulls for the thirty-six-inch racing sloop and the thirty-six-inch racing schooner are identical. The spars and sails are, of course, different. One set of plans and one description is given for building the hulls, but separate sail plans and separate spar details are given for each boat. The hulls are constructed in five lifts of patternmakers’ white-pine, kiln-dried, waterproof glued and hollowed out, after shaping the outside, to a quarter inch thick wall. This excepts the lower portion, where the lead keel is secured. This is left solid. The dimensioned profile and deck outline, Fig. 191, together with the full-size patterns, Fig. 192 (Plate 5),* for the frame stations, give ample data for shaping the hull. The full-sized sections should be trans* Folding plate in pocket. [ 180 ] feriYa%s na— te : 4 J1NsOud GNU39 0 MAJ JO“VINH odWH.OINe9SfsE NLD \aow3mFy i, eed me7 [ 181] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING ferred to stiff paper or cardboard and carefully cut out for use in trimming the hull of the boat to the proper lines. One piece of pine board, nine feet long, eight inches wide and two inches thick, dressed, is sufficient for the hull. Before starting the work read all of the general chapters, as they explain in detail just how to proceed to transfer the lines (shape) of the boat to the wooden block, how to glue it up, shape, finish, paint, make the spars, the sails and so on. Finish the complete wooden hull and then saw out the portion of the keel which will be of lead. Use the sawed out portion for a pattern for casting the lead. The deck may be either a $ in. piece of pine or a piece of three-ply birch veneer. It will be possible to purchase all of the metal fittings, such as the steering gear, mast steps, spreaders, turnbuckles, etc. ‘When shaping the hull and applying the templates proceed in a manner similar to the description given for the thirty-inch Marconi sloop. Proceed carefully and above all have both sides of the hull exactly alike. Before putting the deck on, give the boat several good coats of linseed oil inside and, when dry, a priming coat of lead and zinc paint. Also coat the outside, after it is completely smoothed and finished, with a couple of coats of linseed oil and when it is dry a priming coat of paint. See the chapter on painting. The spars and masts are of spruce, made as described in the chapter on spars. Sails are of balloon cloth, cut to the dimensions shown on the sail plans and spar lists. See the chapter on sails. [ 182] THIRTY-SIX-INCH RACING SLOOP [ 183 ] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING red ¢ : AF naerd ASHWY0S quoa,= ea 2 £ [ 184] THIRTY-SIX-INCH SCHOONER — rey sim ee S st y FESR — Lan : doa — [ 185] ey Potiiina ee pe Gary wi car ; 1 amy Gi =! 36″ RACING SCHOONER — .UgeI~D— BDNWIaOvHsYUdSDSOUNSI«d Ke DlaE+LG “earnISHW‘UDNML MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING | [ 186] I THIRTY-SIX-INCH SCHOONER Fig. 193 shows the sail plan for a thirty-six-inch sloop. Fig. 194 gives full dimensioned drawings for the spars and details for the thirty-six-inch sloop. Fig. 195 shows the sail plan for the thirty-six-inch schooner. Fig. 196 is a deck view of a thirty-six- inch schooner and the location of the fittings. Fig. 197 gives full dimensioned drawings for the spars and details for the thirty-six-inch schooner. Only cursory study of the profile and deck view of the hull will show that the same hull can be used on either type of craft and that the main differences are in the sail plan and the rigging. [ 187] CHAPTER XIX POWER PLANT DESIGN These power plant designs represent the latest scientific engineering practice. As much care and mathematical development calculation and have been expended on these miniature power plants as would be done in the design of a large boiler or engine. They are not mere toys but the product of the engineering minds. A properly designed boiler does not represent a can of water under which a light is placed to generate steam, but is a product where the water capacity, exposed heating surface, flue capacity and heat supply bear a definite balanced relation to the maximum drain on the boiler’s steam supply, (engine consumption of steam). If this combination is not scientifi- cally worked out there will not be a steady and continuous flow of super-heated steam in sufficient quantity to drive the engine continuously at full speed. The maximum capacity of the burner in the case of miniature boats must also bear a definite relation to the maximum capacity of the water in the boiler. This is done in order to prevent damage to the boiler by the water being consumed before the heating means is extinguished. The fuel must give out first in case the boat is allowed to run until it stops. The above combinations have been so successfully [ 188] 3 Baresae TIME ONS IRWSOTS NCIE OvaS;o |”POL es1a WHA”Wado? L S T P W “ S L B H d A tT WE¥I9H07_|SATUA 5I€6BEL8$£3T0/VI19ME%7TET)W||HJvud“AaYDslgNawd|IN2n|eib”DSswyFm1DHB“0|o9AnetLng|[GLS7FH1yS}l2Hs2OEsK54tAuhJ9kStb)IT4asBi|HI.NUPuOFySTae”ag?nWhE.cUOeSoLeCvmC0Iy,OYLPW|OEsuTvIaMw Mu-yDeoOlsLT:1A7‘8H(gGtuznO0L TLEGIHNTWIOSNHWOPTLGTIFSHMODLI BHIOT/GSLM \I zF1rAa7_Nw|=2e a@ FEAL [ 189] OL“7SNT_ZIHEFUY|CM] |W0Zi2e%d MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING and efficiently worked out in these little outfits that it is possible to generate sixty or eighty pounds of steam in three minutes, from cold water, when the burner is properly adjusted and opened wide and to maintain this pressure with the engine throttle wide open. There is a slight tendency for the pressure to increase. This fact is evidenced by the boiler safety- valve which will pop frequently during high speed runs. PEVELOPED LéweTy IV TONS” wor BT a STURMS. | z t a ee eee a we ® rep TUBE HARD CoPPER. ofa. See cote. | = 1 A SOFT COPPER ee amas ar # ee ROLL TIGHT. os BLA ® STRAINER. BESS MESH 4 —4 #60 MOOT WIRE» 5 FiG=199. BLOW /OffCH Come ALL BoILers) PIPE Coll. ~ FEED TUBE AND STRAINER. The power plants are specially designed for the specific boats mentioned and when operated properly they will develop the speed specified. All of the fittings on the boilers, burners and en- gines are specially designed for the units to which they are fitted, consequently they are in proper scale proportion to large boilers. [190] POWER PLANT DESIGN The boiler fittings, steam-dome, super-heater, steam-gauge, water-gauge, combination safety valve and filling plug, all are in the exact proportion they should be, and each is made and tested in exactly the same manner as real ones. The material used throughout must pass a rigid test and all the boilers that are supplied will have been tested to 150 pounds pressure before delivery. This pressure is impossible to generate in the boiler with the burner supplied. This arrangement, to- gether with the automatic safety valve relief, makes the boilers absolutely safe. # =Je a Ke seerion AR” “038 BASS. Fig- 20° BLOW JOACH. FOR fitL BOILERS) ~PAN – BLANK _. The boilers are actually fitted with tubes which are led down into the firebox or flue. This arrange- ment accounts largely for the efficiency of the boiler both in quick heating and maintaining a constant and high steam pressure. [191] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING SST/LIa- dd eee heyo[-aln pe te¥aEPsoucr Oa2 Dw e)XI“aTvEHe (uTsBiDe |@ONETiIY“pESbH, uc be FOLD, ateTN (9)kao’ wn xgw5e4 “4_t| . se #SOLE: = [192] Z7, oe aS S ~A-F7MTGOITNEHAOTYEPL— Z10% S4|fyNaS07)W 5Pt0)=]\|uo‘sINW7iaEHNSYZUCOe4Tt©Hwe\ L, [211] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING SYIUCE BB uD SYPTHIOLNUMD -©- [212] oH) YESl-LZe g—TTiEldHaIsNAzOL)ZMVINEOHL‘geSHPIETLOG ADnP ‘suse NOWINTTE POWER PLANT DESIGN —! [ 213] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING through the bottom of the boat on a specified angle, given in the figures. The first procedure in installing the power plant is to insert the brass shaft tube in this hole, and in all boats except the twenty-fourinch power boat, cover the palm of this with whitelead and secure it to the bottom of the boat on the outside with six small brass countersunk head screws. Then insert the brass propeller shaft and note whether or not it turns perfectly free. If the tube or the shaft is slightly bent it will not. Next mount the strut piece on the outboard end of the shaft and push it along with the palm up until it touches the bottom of the boat in the position shown on the drawings. The strut is of soft brass and it may be slightly lengthened or shortened by pressing the arms to- gether or forcing them apart a small distance. The palms may also be slightly bent to make a good contact with the bottom of the boat in the proper place. When the strut appears to be correct, press it firmly in place and note whether or not the shaft revolves freely. It must do so, and if for any reason it does not, shift. the strut slightly, until it does. When everything is right secure the strut to the bottom of the boat with small brass countersunk screws. The shaft is now mounted in two bearings both of which should be exactly on the fore and aft center line of the boat. By pushing the shaft into the boat through the two bearings, in which it is now mounted, the exact bevel of the engine bearers may be had. Trim the bearers until, when the engine is held firmly on them, and the shaft is pushed up against the coupling without forcing, it exactly touches in the center of the engine [214] S UELIAI~ POWER PLANT DESIGN OULT | E A |= a x YsoHuiyed [215] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING shaft. Then secure the bearers to the boat and the engine to the bearers. At this point some sort of a cradle, either a fin- ished one or a temporary one should be made, in which the boat can rest so that it will be in no danger of bending the shaft or the propeller or damaging the rudder. This cradle must be high enough to prevent the propeller or the rudder touching the bench or table on which the boat may be placed. A simple form of cradle, or chock, as they are sometimes called, consists of two vertical pieces of wood about $ in. thick, the top portion being put in a shape to fit the bottom of the boat at a point about 6 in. forward of the half length and the other piece about 6 in. aft of the half length of the boat. The two chock pieces may be joined by two or three % in. dowels, disposed fore and aft, between them. This gives a chock or cradle 12 in. long. In width they should extend from chine to chine. The portion in contact with the bottom of the boat should be smooth or covered with soft leather. Up to the present time neither the propeller, thrust bearing or universal joint has been fitted. The thrust bearing is disposed between the inboard end of the shaft tube and the engine, for the purpose of taking the forward push of the propeller as delivered through the shaft, in order to prevent this thrust from coming on the bearings of the engines. gine has to do is to rotate the shaft. All that the en- A small collar- piece is pinned to the shaft and this collar pushes against the after end of the thrust bearing, the latter being secured to the after ends of the engine bearers by a flat strip of brass that bridges the two as shown. [216| ONI ES isame + [217] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING When securing the supports for the thrust bearing be careful not to force the shaft out of line. The shaft now rotates in three fixed bearings all of which must be perfectly lined. The universal coupling is in two halves and is for the purpose of providing a somewhat flexible connec- tion between the engine or motor and the propeller shaft. Mount one of the coupling elements on the after end of the engine drive shaft and set up on the set screw. Then mount the other element on the for- ward end of the propeller shaft and set up on the set screw there. Push the shaft forward, so that the coupling elements engage and then mark the tail end of the shaft for cutting. the shaft is to sink Allowing for the length that into the propeller, plus about giz in. clearance between the after end of the strut hub and the forward end of the propeller hub. Then cut the shaft with a file or fine hack-saw but be careful not to bend the shaft. Solder the propeller wheel to the shaft. Make and install the bearers for the boiler and blow torch and secure these bearers to the boat, finally securing the boiler to the bearer. Leave the blow torch so that it can be removed from its bearer because the blow torch is removed from the boat for filling with gasoline, pumping with air, and preheating with alcohol. Never do any of these while the torch is in the boat or you will surely set the boat on fire. Never fill the torch when it is lighted. If these rules are ob- served there is no danger. Connect the boiler and engine with the small cop- per steam pipe after installing the globe shut-off valve and the automatic oiler as shown. [218] Fit the exhaust POWER PLANT DESIGN kxnausr(2°P1PE) | VALVE DIAGRAM — CYLINDER ENGINE -O-S1 “GENERAL ARRANGEMENT ~ Fig -230. [219] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING pipe either to exhaust into the smoke pipe or into the air and the outfit is ready to run. Important. Never run the motor anything like full speed except when the boat is in the water. this is done it will wreck the engine. If No special in- structions will be given for making the several parts of the power plants. It will of course be necessary to have a lathe for finishing the parts and consider- able machine shop experience. For those that have had this the dimensioned drawings are in complete detail and are all that will be required for making the finished parts from the rough castings. It is within the ability of the average builder to assemble the parts of the engines from the finished casting sets. It is not advisable for anyone but the experienced to attempt the construction or assembling of the boilers or blow torches. The complete dimensioned drawings, material schedules, etc., furnish the information, however, for those capable of this work. In connection with the power plant designs, and their construction, it is suggested that none but those having had machine shop practice undertake their complete construction. Those having had this ex- perience will find the drawings in complete accordance with the standard practice for such work. each unit, six-inch boiler, For eight-inch boiler, blow torch, and the one-, two- and four-cylinder steam motors, there is a complete general arrangement view, with each piece marked by a number and a reference table giving the name. In addition, each part is detailed on separate sheets, fully dimensioned for mak- ing patterns, machining the parts and assembling [ 220 | POWER PLANT DESIGN 72-S& 7HP ° USER 48 DALE F jo.32 TAP. EOR EXHAUST. P/PE\ (USE® 20 DRL) | 2-56 -THP. oan P-3I4- BASE P-3S€ CONNECTING HOD PBS 7 CONNECTING FPOD CAP ee am wS-sorin dd Le |’ ag EA Zi #5. 40 rips. 41 P- 387 PISTON OD. P-375 YALVE See ote,ag es Bs 48 70P ey aueibeaae Tei TL B nenm, 2 P-390:CAOSS HERP. P-378 VALVE HOD NUT & ICYLINDER ENGINE, D> $1 DETAILS [221] FIG-231 MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING nt| 42 DRILh eaten he | lo ued Tig , rae ae 32 i =a(dans ly oh P- 336 STERMCHEST COVER STEAM CHEST P: 324 CYLINDER HEAD a §-32 THDs 7AP USE #20 DRILL p-330 Pseoanty Psi [ a =e. Bs: 40 THR ae | es ERT aie PP ré a eget pata pesi 1 | Ae %a | Lo Flight 3ELECCENTAIC AOD cx enon aad he T at. dak be BEAM woo tit| ; * 1p. sesecnawn sumer cap. P- 348 PISTON. rr A P-342 ee – 48 TR = P2859 ECCENTAIC ye el pra | ER 73. 48 raps 1908 7403 48 ‘8 SOLDER rreeeo 38 DAA Ss pees : ae Ay a ee CRANKSHAFT P-370 VALVE Fon, PT S72 VALVE FOR HERD 2 CYLINDER ENGINE , D- $7 DET AILS [222] FIG-232 wLHIg|GUTHSMPs ip&bney q eUaSWTodSATE(ORY FSTS|1L7O08N]YYOeSsTLIIN0IFPOTIS feu SIBTE, a0nLT]0EC|oyTALTOANS A POWER PLANT DESIGN ‘AVaW sV = 9HA8T2 IGKLOToRHE|As [223] VLIOHNPGT| OSLEyINM 7 D 1 1 |ToWLFaNPEdLHT1[CSs5oO3FAaM0|> MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING “ff oi 2 ¥ a Oe. @) 3 ousth! Med pais 4 3 gy P| I Ls en Se 2 6 2 ee ey a Le 8″ ATEN. ASAT 7 TiG- 234, ENGINE S-62.&S$-64 (2 -CYLINDERS)-A cu.) – DETAILS [224] ~ POWER PLANT DESIGN AUNNING FIT FOR PIN esl ae ial – pructst “ i FINCE HOLE os HENS Senews COONTERSINK UNDER SIDE FoR ON te | sii FLATHEAD SCREWS Lbene 2. CAST FON es ENGINE S~62, &S-¢t# (2- CYLINDER S)-(4-erh,) =~ “PETAILS —FIG=235 [225] TAP 44327.E 13 pRILL Dau * ar tet © ga etd NS Be : | ONLY. $°G% na na ENGINE – S-6Z+S-64 (2-euinvensyacr) “DE TRILS= FiG* 236. [ 226 ] ATFT2HW7IS0SIWHPLtAUAOIISNNHE’LdWTFIX6AT9OF-KIHbE0)1S~tLu(8BiSnUATNaIHeYNDsAtKIDU”-N29SAe ‘ONT ON [ 227] stead we ETOFet3al erE SIDNO2M3T% MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING [ 228| POWER PLANT DESIGN them. Arrangements have been made with the Boucher Co. by which those who desire may purchase parts of the motors in rough castings, machined castings, ready to assemble or the units completely assembled, ready to run. Any person who builds one of the boats successfully will have no difficulty in assembling the finished castings of the motors. No one but an expert should attempt to construct one of the boilers or the blow torch because they must be absolutely tight to be safe. No special description is therefore given for the construction of the power plant units other than the drawings because, to successfully teach machine shop practice is beyond the scope of this book. [ 229 ] CHAPTER XX POWER BOAT MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION Model power boats are lightly built in order to make them fast, and their construction is similar to rowing shells. Such boats are not allowed to “soak” in the water for hours at a time. It is customary to remove the shells from the water when the run is over and wipe them dry inside and out. One should treat a small power boat in the same manner, thus keeping the hull true and in good shape for years. Model power boats are usually too fast to permit overtaking in an ordinary rowboat. The usual practice in racing them is to run them into a net stretched across the water or to set the helm (rudder) slightly in order to guide them in a “great circle.” The boats may be stopped by catching them by hand in the path of this circle. Model speed boats are raced by permitting them to run about a stake or pipe, held by a man, in the center of a shallow body of water. The boats are held to the center upright by means of a strong fishing line one end of which is hooked into an eye on the side of the model and the other end being tied to a ring which in turn is placed over a nail in the top of the stake, This permits the string to turn freely. In real races, a piece of pipe is used, high enough to clear the man’s head, and the top is arranged with a ball bearing cap which turns easily with the pull on the cord. 1 230] MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION Since the exact length of the cord can be easily de- termined, it is easy from this to secure the circum ference of the circle that the boats must travel and by timing them carefully it is possible to determine the exact speed. Of course, it is necessary that the boats, in making a given run, keep the string taut at all times, otherwise the circle will be shortened and the test will not be fair. In securing the fishing line to the side of the model, it is customary for each boat to be equipped with a brass or copper strip along one side, at the sheer, and – since this strip is perforated with a number of holes, it is possible to hook the line in at the point where it will just balance the pull of the rudder. If there is too much pull, it will tend to slow the boat down, but if there is not enough, she may slacken up the cord. The idea is to set this hook and the rudder so that they just balance when the boat is at speed. Races may consists of six laps about a circle with a fifty foot radius, but no matter how many circuit s are required, the boat should be capable of keepin g up sufficient steam to complete the run. That is one of the fine points of model racing. If the power boats are allowed to run free on a lake and one of them rammed a boat or a float they would be apt to wreck themselves in the same manner that a large high speed boat would, under similar circumstances. I have released boats completely free on a large smooth lake where there were no other craft operating at the time and followed them with a power boat. Another way is to limit the amount of fuel under the boiler. [231] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING The working parts of the machinery and propeller bearings should be kept well lubricated with good medium weight oil. A slight amount of light oil should be kept in the crank case of each motor. There is a filling plug provided for this purpose. This allows oil to be splashed to all of the lower bearings of the motor. An ingenious oiling device is provided and hooked up with the steam line from the boiler which forces a small quantity of oil into the cylinders with the steam, The device consists of a “dead end” or small receptacle attached to the steam line and as steam slowly condenses and settles in the dead end the oil rises and is forced into the cylinders. The boilers are provided with a combination filling plug and safety valve, a steam gauge and a water gauge, The gasoline blow torch for firing the boiler is provided with a combination filling plug, air inlet valve and outward check. Assuming that we are about to operate one of the power speed boats, the procedure would be as follows: The boat is of course completed, the motor is secured to its bed, properly lined up with the shaft and bearings, the boiler is in place and secured to the bearers and the steam supply line is hooked up with the engine. The blow torch is in place in its bearers so the forward end of the nozzle extends 4 inch into the boiler. The blow torch should not be secured in place so that it cannot be removed. It should be fitted into its chocks, however, so that it cannot shift when the boat rocks and pitches in the water. First remove the blow torch and fill it three-quar[232] MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION ters full with good gasoline, through the filling plug; replace the plug and pumpa little air into the tank by connecting a bicycle tire pump to the air inlet valve. Pump enough air in so that the gasoline will squirt out of the spray nozzle when the needle valve of the torch is opened. Close the needle valve and pump a little more air in. Fill the pre-heating pan with denatured grain alcohol, do not use wood alcohol or gasoline, because they will plug the small spray open- ing with carbon so the gasoline cannot run freely. Place the blow torch on the ground away from any- thing that it can set fire to, and if there is a wind blowing shield it. Then light the alcohol in the pan and allow the burner to heat; the alcohol may boil over slightly and set fire to the ground near the burner, but this will not hurt. When the alcohol is nearly all consumed open the needle valve slightly and if the burner lights or, when the needle valve is opened wide, it makes a good “healthy roar” the burner is ready to put back in the boat. If the burner does not light properly put the flame out first and refill the pan with alcohol and relight it. Next time the burner is opened the torch should be sufficiently heated to properly light. Turn the burner up to test the flame and then cut the flame down and quickly place the burner in the boat in the proper position to fire the boiler after the boiler has been three-quarters filled with clear, clean water. Allow the boiler to heat up gradually, with the burner flame somewhat reduced from the full, or for about three minutes, then, if desired, the burner may be turned up full. In filling the boiler remove the combination filling plug and safety valve with a small wrench and be [ 233 ] MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING careful to fill the boiler only three-quarters full. Have the boat level and watch the water in the glass water gauge. Replace the filling plug, screw it in tight to prevent a steam leak. Watch the steam gauge and when there are three or four pounds of steam open the engine throttle valve slightly, just enough to allow enough steam to enter the engine cylinders to warm them. Turn the engine over by hand by the flywheel. Work all the water out of the engine that is caused by the steam condensing when it comes in contact with the cold parts. Gradually open the valve wider, (when eight or ten pounds show), working the flywheel all the while until the steam takes charge and runs the engine. This is important: Only run the engine slowly until it heats up and until after the boat is placed in the water. If the high speed engine is allowed to race when the boat is not in the water, where the action of the propeller tends to hold it back, the engine will be damaged. Never fill the boiler over three-quartrs full. Never fill the boiler when it is extremely hot and nearly dry. Never fill the gasoline tank over three-quarters full and never fill the gasoline tank without filling the boiler, (three-quarters full). The reason for this is that with the gasoline tank three-quarters full and the boiler three-quarters full the gasoline will be consumed first, if the boat is allowed to run until it stops. In this way the boiler will not be injured. Never leave water in the boiler in a place where it might freeze. Take the hot condensed steam water out of the inside of the boat with a small sponge after you are through running the boat. Due to the poor grade of gasoline on the market, [234] MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION the small opening in the spray nozzle of the gasoline burner sometimes becomes clogged with carbon, thus preventing the burner from operating efficiently. Under such circumstances unscrew the square burner spray nozzle and insert a fine needle in the hole and clean the carbon out thoroughly. In operating the boats be extremely careful not to use them in a lake or pool of insufficient depth. The motors turn up extremely fast when at full speed and if the propeller hits anything it would not only bend it but probably the shaft and the strut also. It would be impossible to repair them anything like their original efficiency and would be necessary to install new parts. You are a skipper of a real boat, so do not take chances, be as careful as is necessary for the captain of a large passenger liner. If you are mindful of the precautions herein stated, the boats will not be damaged. [235 ] INDEX Board lee, 25. A holding, 115. Air pump, 233. Body plan, 5. Alcohol, grain, 233. Angle pieces, Boiler, 188, 191, 196, 210, 220, 232. 179. block, 86, 92. tubes, 191. B water, 233. Bottom block, Balloon cloth, 33. Base block, motor, 86, 92, 132, 137. Base line, 7. 85, flat, 25, planks, 108. Beam, 109. Beams, deck, 85, 92, 137, 150, 156, 179, Bow piece, 106. Bowline, 72. on a bight, 72. Bearers, 214, 216, 218. running, 72. Bearings, thrust, 125, 216, 218. Bowsprit, 150, Becket bend, 74. Bed, motor, 125. Box, fire, 191. Before the wind, 24, 35. Bench, work, 52. Bright work, 38. Bradding, 16, Brushes, 40. Bend, becket, 74. Bulb, lead, 24, 150. carrick, 74, Bulkhead, 158, 160, 161. double carrick, 74, fisherman’s, 74. Burner, 188. sheet, 74. single carrick, 74. Buttock lines, 7. block, 86, 92. studding sail hallyard, 74. C studding sail tack, 74. Bending steam, 16. C clamps, 14. Bends, 69-78. Carlings, 85, 109. Bevel, 86. Carrick bend, 74. Bight, bowline on a, 72. Carving, 88. Castings, Blackwall hitch, 72. 131, 132, 134, 148, 150, 158, 161. burner, 86, 92. knee, finished, 229, machined, 196, Block, boiler, 86, 92. bottom, 85, 131, 148, 150, 158, 161. rough, 210. Cat’s paw, 72. Center line, 12. of gravity, 20. 144. of sails, 22, 29. motor, 86, 92, 132, 137. Chain splice, 76. semi-type, 79, 126, 131, 148. Chamfer, 141. | Blow torch, 196, 218, 232. Chines, [237 ] 108. 132, 134, INDEX F Clamps, 85, 92, 108. C, 14. Faying, edge, 122. Class, star, 157. Cleat, 137, 171. Close hauled, 36. Cloth, balloon, 33. surface, 153. Figure eight knot, 72. Filler, 41. Filling plug, 191, 232. Clove hitch, 76. Finished castings, 229. Clutch lever, 126, 131. Coamings, 86, 92, 109, 121, 132, 137. Finishing, 41. seams, 147. Finish, natural, 38. Fin keel, 150, 156, 164, 173, 179. stern, 109. Collar, thrust, 125. Firebox, Countersinking, 146. 191. Fisherman’s bend, 74. Fitting planks, 112. Fittings, deck, 167. Flat bottom, 25. Coupling, 125. universal, 218. Cradle, 216. Cross pawls, 144, 146. Floor lines, 150. Crown and wall, 76. Flue, 191. Frame lines, 7. D Frame stations, 141. Framed type, 80. Deadwood, 141, 144. Deck, 86, 92, 109, 121, 132, 137, 150, 156, 163, 179, 182. beams, 85, 92, 137, 150, 156, 179. Frames, 108, 144. Friction, skin, 23. Fuel, 188. fittings, 167. Definitions, 60-68. Determining water line, 42. Device, sail shifting, 29, 35. Displacement, 18. Dome, steam, 191. Double carrick bend, 74. crown and single wall, 76. wall and double crown, 76. Dowel, 85, 132. Draft, shallow, 25. Drive, twin screw, gear, 96. Dryer, Japan, 39. Drying, 39. G Garboard, 146. Gauge, steam, 191. water, 191. Gear drive, twin screw, 96. Globe shut off valve, 218. Glue, waterproof, 13. Gold leaf, 44. Gouging, 88, 153, 175. Grain alcohol, 233. Gravity, center of, 20. sails, 22, 29. Grinding tools, 56. Gybing, 35. E Edge, faying, 122. Engine, 123, 196. warming, 234. Exhaust, 218. Exhibition models, 4. Eye splice, 78. H Half breadth plan, 5. Half hitch, 74, 76. and timber hitch, 74. Half round, 109. Hauled, close, 36. [ 238] INDEX Heater, super, 191. Lines, 5. Heeling, 22. Lines buttock, 7. Hitch, blackwall, 72. Lines, floor, 150. frame, 7. close, 76. half, 74, 76. rolling, 74. timber, 74. timber and half, 74, Holding board, 115. Hole, pilot, station, 7. water, 7. Lining up moulds, 88, 132, 134. shaft, 94, 123, 139, 214, 218. Linseed oil, 39. List, 22. 16. of materials, 106. shaft, 210. Lug sail, 33. Hull, 180. v M Machined castings, 196. Man rope knot, 76. Japan dryer, 39. paints, 39. Joint, universal, 216. Marconi rig, 31, 169. Masts, 48, 150. proportions of, 47. K Keel, 106, 113, 141. weighted, 19, 20. Knee block, 144. Knots, 69-78. figure eight, 72. lanyard, 76. Matthew Walker knot, 76. Materials, list of, 106. Models, exhibition, 4. racing speed, 230, 231. Model towing, 3. Motor bed, 125. block, 86, 92, 132, 137. Matthew Walker, 76. speed, 220. overhand, 72. spring driven, 80, 126, 130, 131 reef, 74. 210. square, 74. wall, 76. Moulds, 86, 132. lining up, 88. temporary, L white, 39. Leaf, gold, 44. Lee board, 25. Leeway, 36. Legs, 123. Length, ratio of, 23. Nailing, 16. Nail set, 117. Name, painting, 44. Natural finish, 38. Nautical terms, 60-68. Needle valve, 233. Nozzle, spray, 233, 235. Lettering, 44. Lifts, 10, 14, 171, 180. Line, base, 7. Line, center, 12. 136, N Lathe, 220. Lead bulb, 24, 150. 88, 153. Lanyard knot, 76. Lateral resistance, 20. oO Oil, 196, 232. linseed, 39. [ 239] 137, 150 INDEX Out, tumble, 121. Rack, tiller, 132, 137, 150. Overhand knot, 72. Ratio of length, 23. Reef knot, 74. P. Resistance, lateral, 20. Paint, 39, Rigging, 33, 167. Painting, 165. Rig Marconi, 31, 169. name, 44, Rolling hitch, 74. Paints, Japan, 39. Rough castings, 210. Palm, 94, 123, 214. Round, half, 109. Pawls, cross, 144, 146. turn, 76. Piece, angle, 179. Rudder, bow, 106. stern, 85, 86, 110, 122, 132, 137, 150, 166, 230. 90, 108, 132, stock, 179. 134, 150, 156. Run, 22. Running bowline, 72. Pilot hole, 16. Pipe, smoke, 220. steam, 218. Ss Plan, body, 5. Safety valve, 190, half breadth, 5. sheer, 5. theory of, 37. Planing, 23. Sail center of gravity, 22, 29. Planking, seam finishing, 147. lug, 33. Planks, 144, seams, 31. bottom, 108. shifting device, 29, 35, 148. fitting, 112. Sails, 28, 156, 166, 187. side, 108. Sails, trimming, 36. tapering, 146. Sandpaper, 38, 146. Plant, power, 96. steam 191, 232. Sailing, 35, 167. power, 80, 82, 126, 130, 188, 190, 220. Schooner, 180. Screws, twin, 96. Screw, twin, gear drive, 96. Scribing, 86. Plug, filling, 191, 232. Plugging, 119. Seam finishing, 147. Polishing, 40. Seams, sail, 31. Power plant, 96. steam, 80, 82, 126, 130, 188, 190, 220. Pressure, steam, 190, 191, 210. Profile, 5. Propeller, 132, 137. shaft, 214. Proportions of masts, 47. Semi-block type, 79, 126, 131, 148. Set, nail, 117. Side planks, 108. Sides, 85, 90, 108, 132, 136, 150, 153, 160, 161. Single carrick bend, 74. Shaft, 94. hole, 210. Pump, air, 233. lining up, 94, 123, 139, 214, 218. propeller, 214. R tube, 94, 137, 214. Rabbet, 116. Shallow draft, 25. Racing speed models, 230, 231. Shaping, 174. [ 240J INDEX Sharpening stones, 58. Studding sail haillard bend, 74. tools, 56. tack bend, 74. Sheep shank, 72. Super-heater, 191. Sheer plan, 5. Surface, faying, 153. Sheet bend, 74. wetted, 23. Shifting device, sail, 29, 35, 148. System, splash, 196. Ship weights, 12. T Short splice, 78. Tacking, 35. Shut off, globe valve, 218. Tapering planks, 146. Skin friction, 23. Templates, 11, 112, 146, 172, 174, Sloop, 180. 182. Smoke pipe, 220. Temporary moulds, 88, Spars, 48, 150, 165, 179. Theory of sailing, 37. Thrust bearings, 125, 216, 218. Splice, chain, 76. eye, 78. collar, 125. Tiller, 137. short, 78. rack, 132, 137, 150. Splices, 69-78. Timber hitch, 74. Spline, 12. and half hitch, 74. Spray nozzle, 233, 235. Spring driven motor, 80, 126, 130, Tools, 54. grinding, 56. 131, 210. sharpening, 56. Square knot, 74. Torch, blow, 196, 218, 232. Stain, 39. Towing, 3. Star class, 157. Transom, 85, Station lines, 7. Stations, frame, 136, 144, Tubes, boiler, 191. Tube, shaft, 94, 214. guage, 191. Tumble out, 121. 190, 191, 210. 80, 82, 126, 130, Turn, round, 76. Twin screws, 96. 188, 190, 220. screw gear drive, 96. Stem piece, 85, 132, 134, 148, 160. Stern, 134, Trimming sails, 36. dome, 191. plant, 108, 160, 161. 141. Steam bending, 16. power 137, Terms, nautical, 60-68. racing models, 230, 231, Splash system, 196. pressure, 136, 150, 153. Speed, motor, 220. Type, framed, 80. 141. coamings, 109. semi-block, 79, 148, 126, 131. piece, 85, 90, 108, 132, 134, 150, V, 148. 156. pipe, 218. Stitching, 32. U Universal coupling, 218. joint, 216. Stock, rudder, 179. Stones, sharpening, 58. Straightedge, 117, 134, 153. Strut, 94, 123, 137, 214. Vv V-bottom, 23. V-type, 148. [241] INDEX Valve, globe shut off, 218. needle, 233. lines, 7. safety, 190, 191, 232. Varnish, 38, 43. Waterproof glue, 13. Weighted keel, 19, 20, 150. Veneer, 15. Weights, ship, 12. Ww Wall and crown, 76. knot, 76. Warming engine, 234. Water, boiler, 233. gauge, 191. line, determining, 42. Wetted surface, 23. White lead, 39. Wind, before the, 24, 35. Wood, 14. Work bench, 52. bright, 38. [242] BOUCHER, Inc. 415 Madison Ave., New York, N. Y. Headquarters for MODEL BOAT FITTINGS MODEL SAIL BOATS MODEL POWER BOATS MODEL STEAM ENGINES All of the above Items we keep in stock both COMPLETE AND CONSTRUCTION SETS also BOILERS AND FITTINGS and MODEL RAILROADS _| CATALOGUE No. 29 Of the Latest and Best Practical and Mechanical Books Including Aviation and Automobile Books NZ PRACTICAL BOOKS FOR PRACTICAL MEN Each Book in this Catalogue is written by an Expert and is written so you can understand it, and it will be sent prepaid to any address on receipt of the price PUBLISHED BY THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING Co. 2 WEST 45th STREET NEW YORK, U. S. A. Established 1890 PAGE Abrasives and Abrasive ‘Wheels Knots… Accidents. Air Brakes. Lathe Worl Link Motions. Alloys and ‘Aluminum. – Liquid Air Aluminum and Alloy: Arithmetic. …….. Automobile Books. Locomotive 5, Automobile Charts Automobile Ignition Systomis 7 ‘Automobile Starting Systems Automobile Trouble Charts z 6,7 Aviation… . Bells, Electric 8,9 15 3 Automobile Welding….. 9, 27 Boats….-.–.-+ 9 Boiler Room Chart see Brazing . Cams. Chart. Trouble n Carburetio 9 20 6 Car Charts. Cement. . 10 3 5 Carburetors. Change Géar.’. Charts…… Chemist 22 25 23. Boile: Locomotive Engineering. fs Machinist Books. = Manual Training Marine Gasoline.‘Engine: Mechanical Drawing. Mechanical Movement 24 » 25 1 27 28 20 14 Metallurgy. Metal Work . Mining. Model Making. « . Motor Boats. Motorcycles Motor Truck. Patents…. Pattern Making. Perfumery….Perspective. . Plumbing. . : Questions on Heating. . Feadio pore Clock aaa ‘Watch Mak e Coal…… 23 13. 12 12 Combustion . Concrete. . Concrete for Farm Use. . Use. Shop Concrete for 29 . Cosmetics . Dictionary 13, 17 13, Diesel Eng’ 13 Dies. Drawing for 22 . Locomotive Breakdowns. 4 4 Automobile Lighting.. Automobile Repairing… Drawing 5 Kerosene Carburetors. 4, 30 30 beel 14 Dry Cleaning…… Dynamo Building. . Electric Bells. ….- Electric Switchboards. Electric Toy Making. Electric Wiring…….-Electricity. . Electroplating Ford Automobile… Accidents. e Book. Refrigeration. . Repairing Automobile: Rope Worl Rubber. Rubber Stamps. Saw Filing. …. Saws, Management Screw Cutting. . Ship Models. Shop Practice . . 0! Shop Tools. … Sketching Paper. Slide Valve. . Soap Making Electric Dictionary Engine, Aviation E-T Air Brake. . road R road Charts. . 7 kb, 16; 15, 16, 17, 18 22.18) 1 Soldering . Splices and Ro} : Steam Engineering. a Steam Heating Steel…… . Ford Tractor… … Ford Trouble Chart… Storage Batteries. . Submarine Chart. . . Switchboards Formulas and Recipes Telegraphy, Thread-Cutting. . Gearing and Cams Glossary Aviation T orna! Heatins High Frequency App: Horology……… Horse-Power Chart. . : Hot Water Heating… ‘House Wiring. Hydraulics. . Te * Ignition Systems ignition Trouble Chart. . India Rubber. Tinsmithing….. Tool Making -.. Toy Making. ‘Tractive Power Chart. Tractor, Gas Vacuum Heating. Valve Setting… Ventilation. Watch Making.. Walschaert Valve Gear. Welding. Wireless Telegraph Wiring. Wiring Diagrams. a 131, 32 S15, 16, 18 16 in the world on receipt of price. Any of these books promptly sent prepaid to any address Order, Bank Draft, or Registered Letter. Inventions HOW TO REMIT.—By Postal Money Order, Express Money CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ALLOYS AND ALUMINUM METALS AND THEIR ALLOYS. By Cuarues Vickers. This work is intensely practical, and is indispensable to everyone interested in metals and their alloys. The owner, manager, metallurgist, chemist or the worker in the shop will find here information that heretofore has been so difficult to obtain. It deals with metals from their origin to their useful application, both individually and as parts of alloys, used where strength, ductility, toughness, durability, lightness, color, hardness, cheapness, conductivity or bearing properties are demanded. The chapters on the casting of copper, the making of manganese bronze, aluminum bronze, aluminum alloys, red brass, yellow brass, steam metals, bearing metals, babbitts, white metals, phosphor bronze, gun metals and nickel alloys are crowded with formulas, tested and. tried, together with the physical properties of the alloys and their casting peculiarities. It is a treasure-house of information for the metal worker, a, convenient reference for the trained technical man, and a source of inspiration for the engineer who must select alloys most suitable for his work. 110 dustrations:- “Pricey 5.25: 9s s ee eG es 800 (6×9) airs METALLURGY OF ALUMINUM AND ALUMINUMJALLOYS. oie pages. $7.50 By Roszrr J. ANDERSON. This volume is a modern, authoritative treatise on the metallurgy of aluminum and its light alloys, and covers the subject fully from the mining of the ores to the fab- rication and applications of the metal. While it has been written especially with¥a view to being practical, the more theoretical aspects of the subject have not been neglected. The origin, occurrence and distribution of aluminum ores and methods of mining are taken up in an early chapter, while the production of aluminum itself by modern electrolytic methods is also discussed. The uses and applications of the metal and its alloys are treated in detail. Considerable attention is given to the preparation of alloys for casting and working, and the most approved methods for preparing the principal alloys are taken up. The best methods of melting, together with descriptions of the principal types of furnaces, are given detailed treatment. The founding of aluminum alloys, including casting losses and defects, is discussed quite fully, and the information will be of great value to foundrymen in the successful production of castings. 900 pages (6×9). 295 illustrations. Price. . $10.00 AUTOMOBILES THE AUTOMOBILIST’S*’POCKET COMPANION AND EXPENSE RECORD. By Victor W. Paai. 5 This book is not only valuable as a convenient cost record, but contains much information of value to motorists. Includes a condensed digest of auto laws of all States, a lubrication schedule. ‘ts for care of storage battery, and care of tires, location of road troubles, anti-freezing solutions, horse-power table, driving hints and many useful tables and recipes of interest to all motorists. Pocket size. ee 0 AUTOMOBILE WELDING M. Kerra Dunnam. WITH THE OXY-ACETYLENE FLAME. By Explains in a simple manner _apparatus to be used, its care, and how to construct necessary shop equipment. Proceeds then to the actual welding of all automobile parts, in a manner understandable gotten. by everyone. This book is of utmost value, Gives principles never to be for- since the perplexing problems arising when metal is heated to a melting point are fully explained and the proper methods to overcome them shown. 167 pages. Fully illustrated. HINTS AND TIPS FOR AUTOMOBILISTS. Price. . » « $1.50 By Vicror W. Pacs. The book is ideal for the busy man or woman who wants to know about car operation and upkeep because of the economies possible when an automobile is intelligently operated. It contains many money-saving hints and a brief simple exposition of location and_remedy of roadside troubles apt to occur under ordinary operating conditions: “Price ya) = Be ae et ee ee 5 conts 3 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS AUTOMOBILE REPAIRING MADE EASY. By Vicror W. Paces, M.E. A comprehensive, practical exposition of every phase of modern automobile repairing practice. Outlines every process incidental to motor car restoration. Gives plans for workshop construction, suggestions for equipment, power needed, machinery and tools necessary to carry on the business successfully. ‘Tells how to overhaul and repair all students parts of all automobiles. Hverything is explained so simply that motorists and This work starts with can acquire a full working knowledge of automobile repairing. sys’ lubrication and. cooling ignition, carburetion, the engine, then considers clutch, change-speed gearing and transmission system are considered in detail. parts. instructions for repairing all types of axles, steering gears and other chassis mechanic. Many tables, short cuts in figuring and rules of practice are given for thelocation of systematic engines, ‘‘tuning” timing, Explains fully valve and magneto trouble, repair of ball and roller bearings, shop kinks, first aid to injured and a multibusiness. repair and garage the in tude of subjects of interest to all This book contains special instructions on electric starting, lighting and ignition systems, lire repairing and rebuilding, autogenous welding, brazing and soldering, heat treatment of steel, latest timing practice, eight and twelve-cylinder motors, etc. 5%x8. Cloth. 1060 $8.90 + + + . pages, 1,000 illustrations, 11 folding plates. Price. WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: “*Automobile Repairing Made Easy’ is the best book on the subject I have ever seen and ue ny, ‘pook I ever saw that is of any value in a garage.” —Fred Jeffrey, MartinsNeb. urg, think if could be “T thank you for ‘Automobile Repairing Made Kasy.’ TI do not excelled.”—S. W. Gisriel, Director of Instruction, Y. M. C. A., Philadelphia, Pa. AUTOMOBILE STARTING, LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEMS. By Victor W. Pact, M.E. of the This practical volume has been written with special reference to the requirements matter, relating to all non-technical reader desiring easily understood, explanatory It by understood be can systems. lighting and starting types of automobile ignition, principles are anyone, even without electrical knowledge, because elementaryofelectrical systems. various the features discuss to made is considered before any atterapt All the “These basic principles are clearly stated and illustrated with simple diagrams. and illustrated with leading systems of starting, lighting and ignition have been describedWiring diagrams are the co-operation of the experts employed by the manufacturers. shown in both technical and non-technical forms. Ali symbols are fully explained. It system practice, and includes js a comprehensive review of modern starting and ignitioncare and repair. All types of a complete exposition of storage battery construction, or lighting system units are starting motors, generators, magnetos, and all ignition of cars already in use as well as those that are to come ‘The systems 514×7 Xs. are considered. Every person in the automobile business needs this volume. over 325 Wiring Diagrams. Prico . $3. illustrations, Cloth. 892 pages, 563 fully explained. HOW TO RUN AN AUTOMOBILE. By Victor W. Pacs. all makes of gasoline This treatise gives concise instructions for starting and running features of control. Deautomobiles, how to care for them, and gives distinctiveetc. the chapters Among engine, controlling gears, shifting scribes every step for II. General Starting contained are: |. Automobile Parts and Their Functions. Thoroughly Automobiles. of e Systems—Car Control II. and Driving Instructions. Price . – . – – ee ee $1.00 illustrated. 178 pages. 72 illustrations. THE MODEL T FORD CAR, ITS CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND REPAIR, INCLUDING THE FORDSON FARM TRACTOR, F. A. LIGHTING AND STARTING SYSTEM, FORD MOTOR TRUCK. By Vicror W. Paat. published on the Ford. This is the most complete and practical instruction book ever T car and Fordson tractor car and Fordson tractor. All parts of the Ford Model The construction is are described and illustrated in a comprehensive manner. Complete instructions fully treated and operating principle made clear to everyone.Edition matter has been Revised for driving and repairing are given. To the NewSets Tractor. Fordson Genuine and Conversion ‘Tractor and Truck added on the Ford explained. Written ‘All parts are described. All repair processes illustrated and fullyand Edition enlarged revised New guesswork. no theory, o so all can understand—n just published. 187 illustrations, 455 pages, 2 large folding plates. Price . $2.00 4 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS THE MODERN GASOLINE AUTOMOBILE—ITS DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE. By Vicror W. Paai, M.E. Just off the press—Nurw 1928 Epirion. This is the most complete automobile book ever issued. Covers every recent improvement in relation to the automobile. A. complete illustrated description of the new Ford Model A Car is included. This is the most complete, practical and up-to-date treatise on automobiles and their component parts ever published. All phases of automobile construction, operation and maintenance are fully and completely described and in language anyone can understand. Every part of all types of automobiles from light cars to heavy motor trucks and_road tractors is described in a thorough manner; not only the automobile but every item of its equipment, accessories, tools needed, supplies and spare parts necessary for its upkeep, are fully discussed. It fully considers the power plant and its auxiliaries, also chassis and body construction in minute detail. All latest developments, such as high speed motors, sleeve valve engines, straight cight engines, air cleaners, fuel filters, oil separators and rectifiers and numerous other developm« are considered in detail is outlined. The latest ignition, carburetor and lubrication. pr: eo New forms of change speed gears, and final power transmission systems, and all latest chassis improvements are shown and described, such as four-wheel brakes, air brake systems, balloon tires, hypoid gear drive, four-wheel drive, frontwheel drive, etc. The large demand for the previous editions of this book, this being th ixth time the book has been completely revi: and entirely reset, makes it po: in detail all the latest improvements, including the new Model A Ford x ible to treat He ‘This book has been the standard for many years, and is used in practically every auto- mobile school, college and university as a textbook—and by the United States Army and Navy. 1000 new illustrations 1150 (6×9) pages. Price . . . . $5.00 WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: “Tt is the best book on the Automobile seen up to date.’’—J. H. Pile, Associate Editor Automobile Trade Journal. “Hivery Automobile Owner has use for a book of this character.’”-—The Tradesman. sale eae is superior to any treatise heretofore published on the subject.’-—The noentive Age. THE MODERN MOTOR TRUCK, ITS DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND REPAIR. By Victor W. ‘Treats on all types of motor trucks and ind Paci. 1 tractors and trailers. all types of trucks, gasoline and electric, and all varieties of truck bodi is written in language everyone can understand and is not in any s It considers This book e of the word a technical treatise It is a practical volume that will make s| appeal to the truck driver who seeks to better his position and to the mechanic charged with the repair and upkeep of trucks The factory or business executive who wants to obtain a complete working knowledge of trucic operation problems will find this book a refel ence work of great value ‘The truck salesman or automobile dealer will find that this work contains information that means money to them. All garage and service station men should have a copy of this book for reference because truck construction. differs from passenger car design in many important respects. Anyone who reads this book is in touch with all the practical features that have been tested out in real service. Cloth (6×9) 962 pages, 750 illustrations. Price. . ao5 $4.00 GASOLINE AND KEROSENE CARBURETORS, CONSTRUCTION, STALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT. By Vicror W. Paat. This is a simple, IN- comprehensive, and authoritative treatise for practical men ex- plaining all basic principles pertaining to carburetion, showing how liquid fuels are vaporized and turned into gas for operating all types of internal combustion engines intended to operate on vapors of gasoline, kerosene, benzol, and alcohol. Allleading types of carburetors are described in detail, special attention being given to the forms devised to use the cheaper fuels such as kerosene. _ Carburetion troubles, fuel system troubles, carburetor repairs and installation, electric primers and economizers, hot spot manifolds and all modern carburetor developments are considered in a thorough manner. Methods of adjusting all types of carburetors are fully discussed as well as suggestions for securing maximum fuel economy and obtaining highest engine power. This book is invaluable to repairmen, students, and motorists, as it includes the most complete exposition on kerosene carburetors ever published. The drawings showing carburetor construction are made from accurate engineering designs and show all parts of late types of carburetors. 213 pages. 89 illustrations. . $2.00 5 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS AUTOMOBILE, AVIATION AND MOTORCYCLE CHARTS AVIATION CHART—LOCATION OF AIRPLANE POWER PLANT TROUBLES MADE EASY. By Masor Victor W. Pact, AS.,8.C.US.R. plant, showing the points A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane powerthe common defects. InWhere trouble is apt to occur and suggesting remedies foron and field duty. tended especially for aviators and aviation mechanics . . school 80 cents . . + This chart,was published during the year 1917. Price AUTOMOBILE CHARTS GASOLINE ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY—A CHART SHOWING ESCs aie VIEW OF GASOLINE ENGINE. Compiled by Vicror W. Pact, M.E. of the four-cycle It shows clearly all parts of a typical six-cylinder gasoline engine trouble and also details the detype. It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give operation. rangements apt to interfere with smooth engine garagemen, automobile salesValuable to students, motorists, mechanics, repairmen, men, chauffeurs, motorboat owners, motor-truck and tractor drivers, aviators, motorcyclists, and all others who have to do with gasoline power plants. invaluable to the It simplifies location of all engine troubles, and while it will prove be on the walls of novice, it can be used to advantage by the more expert. It should school. It can or house club shop, every public and private garage, automobile repairand loss of time against insure will ease, with pocket or automobile the in be carried when engine trouble manifests itself. is prepared It troubles. motor of all This sectional view of engine is a complete review information for the money than ever by a practical motorist for all who motor. More 85 cents . . . Price before offered. No details omitted. Size 25×38 inches. LOCATION OF CARBURETION TROUBLES MADE EASY. Compiled by Vicror W. Paes, M.E. supply system and gives ‘This chart shows all parts of a typical pressure feed fuel remedying them. Size 24×38 causes of trouble, how to locate defects and means of inches. Price… . + +) tt el tl tl te tt + 685 Cents LOCATION OF FORD ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY. Compiled by Vicror W. Pact, M.E. Ford power plant and This shows clear sectional views depicting all portions of thefuel supply system, igniauxiliary groups. It outlines clearly all parts of the engine,detailing all derangements tion group and cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, irregularly. This that are liable to make an engine lose power, start hard or work of all engine location simplifies it as chart is valuable to students, owners, and drivers. it can be used equally well faults. Of great advantage as an instructor for the novice, in the toolcarried be can It review. by the more expert as a work of reference and the first time engine pox or pocket with ease and will save its cost in labor eliminated average needs man’s the to trouble manifests itself. Prepared with special referenceit is based _on the actual exand is a practical review of ail motor troubles because describes. chart the mechanism the perience of an automobile engineer-mechanic withof a Ford car to locate engine deTt enables the non-technical owner or operator of by rangements by systematic search, guided by. easily recognized symptoms instead repair shop guesswork. It makes the average owner independent of the roadside on Printed inches. 25×38 Size when touring. Must be seen to be appreciated. GS) ny AT oe my AT oe om, LOOT COMER, a. heavy bond paper. Price LUBRICATION OF THE MOTOR CAR CHASSIS. Compiled by Vicror W. Pack, M.E. chassis of standard design This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder which they are clearly indicated that demand oil, also the frequency withinterested in chart for all practical A ated and the kind of oil to use. 5 cents motor-car maintenance. Size 24x38inches. Price . . . + + + 6 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS Compiled LOCATION OF IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES MADE EASY. by Victor W. Pact, M.E. In this diagram all parts of a typical double ignition system using battery and magneto current are shown, and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles and . 85 cents . . . . eliminating them when found. Size 24x38inches. Price LOCATION OF STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM FAULTS. Compiled by Vicror W. Paci, M.E. The most complete chart yet devised, showing all parts of the modern automobile starting, lighting and ignition systems, giving instructions for systematic location of all faults in wiring, lamps, motor or generator, switches and all other units. Invalu- able to motorists, chauffeurs and repairmen. MOTORCYCLE TROUBLES MADE EASY. M.E. 85 cents . Price Size 24×38 inches. Compiled by Victor W. Pack, A chart showing sectional view of a single-cylinder gasoline engine. This chart simplifies location of all power-plant troubles. A single-cylinder motor is shown for simplicity. It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the derangements apt to interfere with smooth engine operation. This chart will prove of value to all who have to do with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No details omitted. Size 30×20 inches. Price . . . . . .. . . . SB cents AVIATION TWO NEW AVIATION BOOKS Just off the press. Give complete information on every phase of aeronautics. Learn to Fly by flying, but prepare yourself in the ground work by Home Study, for experience in the air. Valuable Books for reference. They will start you right. MODERN AIRCRAFT, DESIGN-CONSTRUCTION-OPERATION AND REBy Masor Vicror Paci. A book for all students of Aircraft. Just off the press. PAIR. This book of 855 pages is the most complete work ever issued on Aviation. It is written in simple language for the Practical Man. It shows just how any airplane flies and is controlled, outlines and describes all important paris of the plane and just what they do and how they are used. Covers the commercial possibilities of aircraft types, outlines their spheres of usefulness and considers the cost of flying. The equipment of airports, airways and Janding fields is touched upon and a complete and easily understood explanation of all branches of aerodynamics as well as a complete glossary of terms used in aeronautics are included. This booklet includes a description of the Ryan NYP mono- plane flown from New York to Paris by Colonel Charles Lindbergh and the WrightBellanca monoplane flown by Clarence Chamberlain from New York to Berlin, It also describes fully the Fokker tri-motored monoplane used by Commander Byrd in his Polar and trans-oceanic flights. The Wright air-cooled motor and the navigating instruments that made these Epochal Flights possible are fully described. Adopted as an Instruction Book in fifty aviation schools and colleges. 855 pages. Over 400 engravings. Price . : . – . $5.00 WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK “Your new book, ‘Modern Aircraft’ isa wonder. Very complete and up-to-the-minute. Highly interesting and a valuable contribution to the field of aviation. I feel that the author and publisher both have done fully 100 per cent. justice to this splendid book which really should be in the hands of every person interested in the progress of Modern Aircraft.” (Signed) FreD W. Doss, 1951 Lawrence Ave., Chicago, TM. CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS EVERYBODY’S AVIATION GUIDE. By Vicror W. Pach. A Popular Book at a Popular Price. This book, written in the form of a series of lessons or instructions, starts the reader at the beginning of the subject, outlines the elementary aerodynamical rules for the various forms of flying machines, describes typical conventional and unconventional forms of heavier-than-air and lighter-than-air craft, the functions of the various parts of an airplane, and covers briefly the various types of airplane power plants in both air and water-cooled forms. It outlines fully all types of land and sea flying machines, their control systems and the methods of These are all fully illustrated. flying. ‘While piloting an airplane can be learned only by actual practice, this book will give the reader the various steps in airplane control and wi serve as a very valuable introduction to the entire subject of flying for the non-téchnical person who wishes to be able to fly an airplane just as he now operates an automobile for business or pleasure. 247 pages, 140 illustrations, 600 questions and answers on aviation. Price. $2.00 AVIATION BOOKS AT SPECIAL PRICES As very large editions of books below were printed when published, and in order to reduce our stock we are offering these books at reduced prices. Although these books were published a few years ago, they contain much information of value at the present time, and in order that those interested in aviation may avail themselves of these volumes we are now offering them at reduced prices to clear out the editions. The principles of operation described in these books apply just as well to the latest types of airplanes and airships and their engines which have changed only in minor details from the forms illustrated, and they are just as valuable to the reader today. The beginner or student will get much information at low cost from the following books. ABC OF AVIATION. By Masor Victor W. Paes. This book describes the basic principles of aviation, tells how a balloon or dirigible is made and why it floats in the air. Describes how an airplane flies. It shows in detail the different parts of an airplane, what they are and what they do. Describes all types of airplanes and how they differ in construction; as well as detailing the advantages and disadvantages of different types of aircraft. It includes a complete dictionary of aviation terms and clear drawings of leading airplanes. The reader will find simple instructions for unpacking, setting up, and rigging airplanes. A full description of airplane control principles is given and methods of flying are discussed at length. This book answers every question one can ask about modern aircraft, their construction and operation, A self-educator on aviation without an equal. 274 pages. 130 specially made illustrations with 7 plates. Price . . . . . . . $1.25 AVIATION ENGINES—DESIGN; CONSTRUCTION; REPAIR. Victor W. Paai, A.S.,8.C.U.S.R. By Masor This treatise, written by a recognized authority on all of the practical aspects of internal combustion engine construction, maintenance, and repair, fills the need as no other book does. The matter is logically arranged; all descriptive matter is simply expressed and copiously illustrated, so that anyone can understand airplane engine operation and repair even if without previous mechanical training. This work is invaluable for anyone desiring to become an aviator or aviation mechanic. Rotary types, such as the Gnome Monosoupape, and LeRhone, are fully explained, as well as the Vee and radial types. The subjects of carburetion, ignition, cooling, and lubrication also are covered in a thorough manner. The chapters on repair and maintenance are distinctive and found in no other book on this subject. Not a technical book, but a practical, easily understood work of reference for all interested in aeronautical science. 589 pages. 253 illustrations. Price,netb . . . $1. 8 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS APPLIED AERODYNAMICS. By G. P. Tuompson. This is a scientific and mathematical treatise that has a special appeal io the pendent 2 and engineer who are seeking exact information on the aerodynamics of air craft and data on airplane design testing. In addition to a very full dis of the qualities which determine the speed and rate of climb of an aeroplane and the method by which they can be calculated, special attention is paid to stability —a, problem now fairly well understood, and to controllability—-our knowledge of which is at present in a much more elementary state. Attention is directed to the numerous directions in which further information is required, especially in the form of full-scale experiments. 312 pages (7 x 10). Mlustrated with over and Graphic: Charts © cbyice acaen-ao stil ae ye 142 Diagrams $5.00 GLOSSARY OF AVIATION TERMS—ENGLISH-FRENCH; FRENCHENGLISH. By Masor Vicror W. Paci, AS, S.C.U.S.R., and Lisur. Pav Monraniot, of the French Flying Corps. A complete glossary of practically all terms used in aviation, having lists in both ¥rench and English with equivalents in either language. Price, . . 50 cents BOAT BUILDING MINIATURE BOAT BUILDING. By Atpert C. Lerrcn. ing the construction of working models of racing sail and power boats by amaA concise and complete treatise written in understandable language covering marine model making in general and the specific design and construction of numerous famous miniature racing sail and power boats. The boats illustrated and described have been developed from an engineering point of view rather than from a toy angle. In this book the authors have illustrated and described step by step, the best model making practice, from the selection of the raw material to the completed boats. Complete designs for steam power plants, including tubular boilers and blow torch for firing them. One, two and four cylinder engines are also fully describe 500 spe- cially prepared engravings. 242 pages. Price . Hetaly Se a ea en Rin .00 BRAZING AND SOLDERING BRAZING AND SOLDERING. By James F. Hogarr. The only book that shows you just how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that comes along: it tells you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you need one. Full of valuable kinks. The fifth edition of this book has just been published, and to it much new matter and a large number of tested formuke for all kinds of solders and fluxes have been added. I[lustrated.. . . . . . . . .. . – SOLDERING AND BRAZING. By Raymonp Francis Yares. – 85 cents This treatise gives all the necessary ‘‘kinks” that will enable one to accomplish successful soldering. If a mechanic has not succeeded in his soldering, this book may tell him just what he needs to produce good work—something that he may fore Nave:torgotten.. Pricé x, ae ee ng Saas hereto- 6 cents CHARTS BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowzsr. A chart—size 14×28 inches—showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. The various parts are shown broken or removed, so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. Hach part is given a reference number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed at thesidés: 26 5 SS 2 os 6k Ge es ee. SS 5 cents 9 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS GONDOLA CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper reference name given in a reference list… 2 . . . 6 + 85 cents PASSENGER CAR CHART. A chart showing the anatomy of a passenger-car, having every part of the car numbered and its proper name given inareferencelist. . . . . . . +. + – + 85 cents STEEL HOPPER BOTTOM COAL’CAR. A chart showing the anatomy of a steel Hopper Bottom Coal Car, having eyery part . . . . 85 cents of the car numbered and its proper name given in a reference list. TRACTIVE POWER CHART. pull of any locomotive ‘A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbarhow driving wheels and without making a figure. Shows what cylinders are equal, a given drawbar steam pressure affect the power. What sized engine you need to exert 5O cents ee ee se ee 6 6 pull or anything you desirein thisline. ©. CHART HORSE-POWER matter what Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without calculation. No the revolutions, or the cylinder diameter of stroke, the steam pressure of cut-off, and accurate, use, to Hasy there. all it’s whether condensing or non-condensing, saves time and calculations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents SUBMARINE CHART. of A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the interior of a Submarineand the latest type. You get more information from this chart, about the construction ing operation of a Submarine, than in any other way. No details omitted—everyth is accurate and to scale. All the machinery and devices fitted in a Submarine Boat el lll ll lle nl Op eemte 60s fee ws we ee ACOSHOWN) CHEMISTRY HOW TO MAKE AND USE A SMALL CHEMICAL LABORATORY. Raymonp Francis Yarus. By The law of definite The treatise covers all of the essentials of elementary chemistry. proportions, solutions, crystalloids, colloids, electrolysis, etc., are explained. The second part of the book is devoted to chemical and electro-chemical experiments. Only those experiments that will tend to broaden the reader’s knowledge of chemistry in general have been chosen. Price . ee es + + © 6 + – – 75 cents CLOCK AND WATCHMAKING CLOCKMAKING: PAST AND PRESENT. By C. F. C. Gorpon. With which is incorporated, the more important portion of ‘‘Clocks, Watches, and Bells,” by the late Lord Grimthorpe, relating to Turret Clocks and Gravity EscapeBy G. F. C. Gordon, M.A., A.M.1.C.E., Superintendent of Workshops of ments. University. A practical book of special the Engineering Department of Cambridge interest to the Clockmaker, Repairer, Dealer and Collector, in which the author endeavors to cover topics which cither have not been covered before, or which from his own experience require more attention than they have hitherto received. 240 pages. Fully illustrated by Diagrams and plates of Long Case, Bracket and other Clocks, Dials, Hands, ete. Price BORDERS CLOCK REPAIRING AND MAKING. Practical Watchmaker. Sop one as rel af us oh epee tOLOO By F. J. Garrarp. Author of ‘Watch Repairing, Cleaning and Adjusting.” handbook dealing with Tools, Materials, and Methods used in cleaning ‘A practical and repairing all kinds of English and Foreign Timepieces, Striking and Chimney of English Clocks. Clocks, and the making «8 2 “) by 120 engravings: Price. 10 168 pages. ee 0s Fourth edition. Illustrated ew 8,00 we ewe CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ELECTRICAL HOROLOGY. By H. R. Laneman and A. Batu. 180 pages profusely illustrated. A practical manual on the application of the principles and practices of electricity to horological instruments and machines for the measure- ment and transmission of time with an account of the earliest electrically-driven clock mechanism. 180 pages. Illustrated. Price THE WATCHMAKER’S HANDBOOK. . . . . . . . $8.00 By Craupius Savunirr. ‘Translated from the French by Cladius Saunier, and enlarged by Julien Tripplin, A workshop companion for those engaged in F.R.A.S., and Edward Rigg, M.A. watchmaking and the allied mechanical arts. As an encyclopedia for the practical watchmaker and repairer this work stands paramount. The chapter on practical receipts alone is a mine of information. 14 folding plates. Price . . . . . – – oo 6 g 6 Cedi By F. J. Garranp. WATCH REPAIRING AND MAKING. Practical Watchmaker. New and revised edition. Over 500 pages. Author of ‘Watch Repairing, Cleaning and Adjusting.” Covers the Cleaning and Repairing of Watches. Treats on the materials and tools used. Shows how to alter and adjust_all kinds of English and Foreign Watches, Repeaters, Chronographs and Marine Chronometers, 214 pages. Seventh edition. . . Price Yllustrated by over 200 engravings. . . $8.00 + + + + . CONCRETE CONCRETE WORKERS’ REFERENCE BOOKS. A SERIES OF POPULAR HANDBOOKS FOR CONCRETE USERS. Prepared by A. A. Hoventon. The author, in preparing this Series, has not only treated on the usual types of construction, but explains and illustrates molds and systems that are not patented, but which are equal in value and often superior to those restricted by patents. These molds are very easily and cheaply constructed and embody simplicity, rapidity of operation, and the most successful results in the molded concrete. Each of these books is fully illustrated, and the subjects are exhaustively treated in plain English. By A. A. Hovaston. CONCRETE WALL FORMS. Other types of A new automatic wall clamp is illustrated with working drawings. wall forms, clamps, separators, etc., are also illustrated and explained, seal ONO: POPSertes) che. ow Se yeh ne re icine CONCRETE FLOORS AND SIDEWALKS. eos meeete 2 we SO MCERLS: By A. A. Hovuazron. The molds for molding squares, hexagonal and many other styles of mosaic floor and (No.2ofSeries) . . 75 cents sidewalk blocks are fully illustrated and explained. PRACTICAL CONCRETE SILO CONSTRUCTION. By A. A. Hovenron. Complete working drawings and specifications are given for several styles of concrete silos, with illustrations of molds for monolithic and block silos. The tables, data, and information presented in this book are of the utmost value.in planning and constructing . 75 cents silos. (No.3ofSeries) . . 2. – + s+ all forms ofconcrete By A. A. MOLDING CONCRETE CHIMNEYS, SLATE AND ROOF TILES. Hovauton. The manufacture of all types of concrete slate and roof tile is fully treated. Valuable its pages. The data on all forms of reinforced concrete roofs are contained within construction of concrete chimneys by block and monolithic systems is fully illustrated and described. A number of ornamental designs of chimney construction with molds are shown in this valuable treatise. (No.4 of Series.) . . . . . . . 75 cents MOLDING AND CURING ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE. By A. A. Hovenron. ‘The proper proportions of cement and aggregates for various finishes, also the method n ixing and placing in the molds, are fully treated, ENON Of Series:)… An exhaustive ject that every concrete worker will find of daily use and value <6 WS) a2 a Rese ie Il pe ed emeenmt era sen e170) CONES CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS CONCRETE MONUMENTS, MAUSOLEUMS AND BURIAL VAULTS. A. A. Houeuton. By The molding of concrete monuments to imitate the most expensive cut stone is explained in this treatise, with working drawings of easily built molds. Cutting inscriptions and designs are also fully treated. (No. 6 of Series.) « « 7D cents MOLDING CONCRETE BATHTUBS, AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIU MS. By A. A. Hovauron. Simple molds and instruction are given for moiding many styles of concrete bathtubs, swimming-pools, etc. These molds are easily built and permit rapid and successful works (No. 7 of Series). cn 6 se we se we ee ge Se PB beentel CONCRETE BRIDGES, CULVERTS AND SEWERS. By A. A. Hovauron. A number of ornamental concrete bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A collapsible center or core for bridges, culverts and sewers is fully illustrated with de- tailed instructions for building. (No.8 of Series.) CONSTRUCTING CONCRETE PORCHES. . . . . . . . 95 cents By A. A. Houcuron. A number of designs with working drawings of molds are fully explained so anyone can easily construct different styles of ornamental concrete porches without the pur- chase of expensive molds. (No.9 of Series)... . . . . . . . 95 eents MOLDING CONCRETE FOUNTAINS AND LAWN ORNAMENT S. A. Houauron. By A. ‘The molding of a number of designs of lawn seats, curbing, hitching posts, pergolas, sun dials and other forms of ornamental concrete for the ornamentatio n of lawns and gar- dens, is fully illustrated and described. CONCRETE FOR THE FARM Campse.t, C.E., E.M. A new book illustrating and (No. 11 of Series). AND describing IN in THE 2: SHOP. plain, simple SS By YB cents H. language many of the numerous applications of concrete within the range of the home worker. subjects treated are: Coun Ee Among the Principles of reinforcing; methods of protecting concrete so as to insure proper harden- ing; home-made mixers; mixing by hand and machine; form construction, described and illustrated by drawings and photographs; construction of concrete walls and fences; concrete fence posts; concrete gate posts; corner posts; clothes line posts; grape arbor posts; tanks; troughs; cisterns; hog wallows; feeding floors and barnyard pavements; foundations; well curbs and platforms; indoor floors; sidewalks; steps; concrete hotbeds and _cold frames; concrete slab roofs; walls for buildings; repairing leaks in tanks and cisterns, etc., etc. for estimating quantities, and some 149 pages, 51 illustrations. Price . Anumber of convenient and practical tables practical examples, are also given. (5 x 7). 9...) $1.00 CONCRETE FROM SAND MOLDS. By A. A. Hovauron. A Practical Work treating on a process which has heretofore been held as a trade secret by the few who possessed it, and which will successfully mold every and any class of ornamental concrete work. The process of molding concrete with sand molds is of the utmost practical value, possessing the manifold advantages of a low t of molds, the ease and rapidity of operation, perfect details to all ornamental di signs, density and increased strength of the concrete, perfect curing of the work without attention and the easy removal of the molds regardless of any undercuttin g the design may have. 192 pages. Fully illustrated. Price 2... 1...) ee $2.00 ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE WITHOUT MOLDS. By A. A. Hovauton. ‘The process for making ornamental concrete without molds has long been held as a secret, and now, for the first time, this process is given to the public. The book reveals the secret and is the only book published which explains a simple, practical method whereby the concrete worker is enabled, by employing wood and metal templates of different designs, to mold or model in concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, Column, Pedestal, Base Cap, Urn or Pier in a monolithic form—right upon the job. ‘These may be molded in units or blocks, and then built up to suit the specifications demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. Price. $2.00 12 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS POPULAR HANDBOOK Myron H. Lewis. FOR CEMENT AND CONCRETE USERS. By ‘The author has brought together in this work all the salient matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many diversified products, The matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly written, fully illustrated and free from involved mathematics. Everything of value to the concrete user is given, including kinds of cement employed in construction, concrete architecture, inspection and testing, waterproofing, coloring and painting, rules, tables, working and cost data. prises thirty-three chapters, 430 pages, 126 illustrations. Price . . The book com- . . $8.00 DICTIONARIES STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O’Conor Stoanz. An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions of about 5000 distinct words, terms and phrases. and include every term used in electrical science. edition. of this branch of science. trations. The definitions are terse and concise Recently issued. An entirely new Should be in the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress Complete, concise and_convenient. New Revised and Enlarged Edition. Price o) ous 790 pages. eo ae 497 illus- O00) DIESEL ENGIN DIESEL ENGINES: THEIR APPLICATION AND —LOCOMOTIVE—STATIONARY. OPERATON—MARINE By Davin L. Jonus. ‘This is the latest book on the subject of Diesel Engines written purely from a practical standpoint, in simple language, to enable the operator and the student to grasp the principles of this type of machine and to bring out the advantages of this form of prime mover in its various fields of operation. ‘ Z It should be found upon the desk of every power station operating engineer and every student of mechanical engineering, as it contains data that is invaluable, and is the only American book containing an illustrated chapter on the application of the Diesel Engine to Railway Servi The importance of the Diesel Engine cannot be oyer- estimated and the progressive engineer will find it his duty to extend his knowledge into the Diesel Engine field. Among the chapters are: The Diesel Engine—Elementary Thermodynamics—Elementary Principles—Comparative Efficiencies—Details of Construction—Spray Valves—Fuel Pumps, Governors, Fuel Systems—Valve Gears— Starting and_ Reversing Gears—Lubricating and Circulating Water Systems—TIndica- tor Cards and Engine Testing—Operation of Diesel Engines—Representative Types of Engines—Representative Types of Engines continued—A 1000 Horse Power Submarine Diesel Engine—Diese! Engines for Railroad Service—Diesel Electric Drive for Ships—Properties of Lubricating and Fuel Oils—Marine Rules for Vessels Propelled by Diesel Oil Engines. 565 pages. 341 illustrations. Price, . . . . $5.00 DIES—METAL WORK DIES: THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V. Woopworrs. A most useful book, and one which should be in the hands of all engaged in the pressworking of metals; treating on the Designing, Constructing, and Use of Tools, Fixtures and Devices, together with the manner in which they should be used in the Power Press, for the cheap and rapid production of the great variety of sheet-metal articles now in use. It is designed as a guide to the production of sheet-metal parts at the minimum of cost with the maximum of output. The hardening and tempering of Press tools and the classes of work which may be produced to the best advantage by the use of dies in the power press are fully treated. Its 546 illustrations show dies, press fixtures and sheet-metal working devices, the descriptions of which are so clear and practical that all metal-working mechanics will be able to understand how to design, construct and use them. 7th Edition. 426 pages, 546 illustrations. Price. . $4.00 13 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS DRY CLEANING PRACTICAL DRY CLEANER, SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. By Wiuiiam T. Brannr. ‘The sixth corrected edition of this work us just off the pre It is the most compre- hensive and complete reference and text book for cleaners and dyers published and treats fully on cleaning plant design and construction; purification of benzine dry cleaning; spot and stain removal; wet cleaning, including the cleaning of Palm Beach its and other summer fabrics; finishing cleaned fabrics; ning and dyeing furs, skins, rugs and mats; cleaning and dyeing feathers; cleaning, dyeing and blocking straw, felt and Panama hats; cleaning and dyeing rugs and carpets; bleaching and stripping garments; bleaching and dyeing straw and straw hats: cleaning and dyeing gloves; garment dyeing: analysis of textile fabrics: practical chemistry for the dry cleaner and garment dyer. 578 pages, 41 illustrations, Price . . . . $8.00 DRAWING—SKETCHING PAPER LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By Herman T. C. Kravs. This work gives the theory and practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engineering and mechanical drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject by themselves will be able, by the use of the instruction given, to readily grasp the subject, and by reasonable practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrange- ment of the book is good; the plate is on the left-hand, while the descriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to show the work clearly and are plainly figured. There is includeda self-explanatory chart which gives all information necessary for the thorough understanding of perspective. This chart alone is worth many times over the price of the book. 2d Revised and enlarged Edition, . . . . 2. 2. 2. 1. ws $8.00 PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. By Ricuarps and Cotvin. Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the only practical per- spective isometric. Makes everything plain so that any mechanic can understand a sketch or drawing in this way. shops. Saves time in the drawing room, and mistakes in the Contains practical examples of various classes of work. 5th Edition. $1.00 SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELEMENTARY MACHINE DESIGN. By F. L. Sytvestmr, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Err OxeErG, associate editor of “Machinery.” ‘This is a practical treatise on Mechanical Drawing and Machine Design, comprising the first principles of geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics, mechanics, strength of materials and the calculations and design of machine details. ‘The author’s aim has been to adapt this treatise to the requirements of the practical mechanic and young draftsman and to present the matter in as clear and concise a manner as possible. To meet the demands of this class of students, practically all the important elements of machine design have been dealt with, and in addition algebraic formulas have been explained, and the elements of trigonometry treated in the manner best suited to the needs of the practical man. The book is divided into 22 chapters, and in arranging the material, mechanical drawing, pure and simple, has been taken up first, as a thorough understanding of the principles of representing objects facilitates the further study of mechanical subjects. ‘his is followed by the mathematics neces- sary for the solution of the problems in machine design which are presented later, and a practical introduction to theoretical mechanics and the strength of materials. "The various elements entering into machine design, such as cams, gears, sprocket-wheels, cone pulleys, bolts, screws, couplings, clutches, shafting and fly-wheels, have been treated in such a way as to make possible the use of the work as a text-book for a continuous course of study. 345 pages, 237 engravings. Price. . . . $2.50 A NEW SKETCHING PAPER. A new specially ruled paper to enable you to make sketches or drawings in isometric perspective without any figuring or fussing. It is being used for shop details as well as for assembly drawings, as it makes one sketch do the work of three, and no workman can help seeing just what is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches, 40 eents. Pads of 40 sheets, 9x12 inches, '75 cents; 40 sheets, 12x18, Price 14 . . . . . . $1.50 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ELECTRICITY ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. O’Conor Stoans. A practical treatise on electrical calculations of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated by one or more practical problems, with detailed solution of each one. This book is classed among the most useful works published on the science of electricity, covering as it does the mathematics of electricity in a manner that will attract the attention of those who are not familiar with algebraical formulas. Bids ( co eee aera utara ees i tie Meroe COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. 6 ce 22nd Edition. Gt 196 pages. 0 be aes By Wm. Baxrur, Jr. The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct current type is the commutator. This book goes into the designing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows how to locate troubles and how to remedy them; everyone who fusses with dynamos needs this. Sth Edition. . . . . . +... +... .+- +. . 85 cents DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, OR HOW TO CONSTRUCT A pw ALTE DYNAMO. By Arruur J. Weep, Member of N. Y. Electrical jociety. A practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the entire machine work of which can bedoneon a small foot lathe. Dimensioned working drawings are given for each. piece of machine work, and each operation is clearly described. This machine, when used as a dynamo, has an output of fifty watts; when used as a motor it will drive a small drill press or lathe. sewing machine on any and all ordinary work. Jt can be used to drive a The book is illustrated with more than sixty original engravings showing the actual construction of the different parts. Among Rods. the contents are 3. Field Punching. Holders. Winding. chapters on: 4. 8. Connection Board. 12. Field Winding. ELECTRIC BELLS. Bearings. 1. Fifty-Watt Dynamo. 5. Commutator. 9. Armaturé Shaft. 6. 2. 13. Connecting and Starting. Side Pulley. 10, Armature. Bearing 7. Brush 11, Armature Price, cloth, $1.00 By M. B. Siempsr. A complete treatise for the practical worker in installing, operating, and testing bell circuits, burglar alarms, thermostats, and other apparatus used with electric bells. Both the electrician and the experimenter will find in this hook new material which is essential in their work. Tools, bells, batteries, unusual circuits, burglar alarms, annunciators, systems, thermostats, circuit breakers, time alarms, and other apparatus used in bell circuits are described from the standpoints of their applica- tion, construction, and repair. The detailed instructions for building the apparatus will appeal to the experimenter particularly. The practical workor will find the chapters on Wiring Calculation of Wire Sizes and Magnet Windings, Upkeep of Systems and the Location of Faults of the greatest value in their work. 124 pages. Pally illustrated. “Pricé si i ie Go ee ee ge gS 75 cents HOUSE WIRING. By Tuomas W. Poprrs. This work describes and illustrates the actual installation of Electric Light Wiring, the manner in which the work should be done, and the method of doing it. The book can be conveniently carried in the pocket. It is intended for the Electrician, Helps, and Apprentice. it solves all Wiring Problems and contains nothing that conflicts with the rulings of the National Board of Fire Underwriters. tion essential to the Successful Wiring of a Building. Locating the Meter. Panel Boards. Switches. It gives just the informa- Among the Plug Receptacles. subjects treated are Brackets. Ceiling Fixtures. The Meter Connections. The Feed Wires. The Steel Armored Cable System. The Flexible Steel Conduit System. The Ridig Conduit System. A digest of the National Board of Fire Underwriters’ rules relating to metallic wiring systems. Various switching arrangements explained and diagrammed. ‘The easiest method or testing the Three- and Four-way circuits explained. The grounding of all metallic wiring systems and the reason for doing so shown and explained. The insulation of the metal parts of lamp fixtures and the reason for the same described and illustrated. 208 pages. 5th Edition, revised and enlarged. 160 illustrations. Flexible cloth. Price 5) Ss) es Gi ee Ss ea eee res os 9,00. 15 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ELECTRICIANS’ HANDY BOOK. By Prof. T. O’Conor Sioans. This work is intended for the practical electrician who has to make things go. The entire field of electricity is covered within its pages. Among some of the subjects treated are: The Theory of the Electric Current and Circuit, Electro-Chemistry, Primary Batteries, Storage Batteries, Generation and Utilization of Electric Powers, Alternating Current, Armature Winding, Dynamos and Motors, Motor Generators, Operation of the Central Station Switchboards, Safety Appliances, Distribution of Electric Light and Power, Street Mains, Transformers, Arc and Incandescent Lighting, Electric Measurements, Photometry, Electric Railways, Telephony, BellWiring, Electric-Plating, Electric Heating, Wireless Telegraphy, etc. It contains no useless theory; everything is to the point. It teaches you just what you want to know about electricity. It is the standard work published on the subject. Fortysix chapters, 600 engravings. New 5th Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Price $4.00 ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING, AND ELECTRIC MOTOR CONSTRUCTION. By Prof. T. O’Conor Sioanz. This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos and instruments in general, and is designed to bring within the reach of young and old the manufacture of genuine and useful electrical appliances. The work s . is especially designed for amateurs and young folks. | "Thousands of our young people are daily experimenting, and busily engaged in making electrical toys and apparatus of various kinds. The present work is just what is want- ed to give the much needed information in a plain,ppiscdcal manner, with illustrations oat 2 eo 6) Roy es Pe Fi WAGON Newton By SWITCHBOARDS. AND ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS ug make easy the carrying out of the work. 21st Edition. 254 pages, 118 illustrations. Harrison. A thoroughly practical treatise covering the subject of Electric Wiring in all its branches, including explanations and diagrams which are thoroughly explicit and greatly simplify the subject. presented and the method Practical, every-day problems in wiring are of obtaining intelligent results clearly shown. Only arithmetic is used. Ohm’s law is given a simple explanation with reference to wiring for direct and alternating currents. The fundamental principle of drop of potential in circuits is shown with its various applications. The simple circuit is developed with the position of mains, feeders and branches; their treatment as a part of a wiring plan and their employment in house wiring clearly illustrated. Some simple facts about testing are included in connection with the wiring. Molding and conduit work are given careful considera- tion; and switchboards are systematically treated, built up and illustrated, showin the purpose they serve, for connection with the circuits, and to shunt and compoun wound machines. The simple principles of switchboard construction, the develop- ment of the switchboard, the connections of the various instruments, including the lightning arrester, are also plainly set forth. Alternating current wiring is treated, with explanations of the pows calling for various sizes of wire, and a simple way of obtaining the sizes factor, conditions for single-phase, issued showing two-phase and three-phase circuits. This is the only complete work arithmetic being used throughout. It is in every respect a handy, well-written, and telling you what you should know about direct and alternating current wiring. | 1t is a ready reference. © The work is free from advanced technicalities and mathematics, instructive, comprehensive volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor, or electrician. 3rd edition, revised and enlarged. 315 pages; 137 illustrations. ee ak fe RDO. ia eee Re BPTICO] 0G) xc ee et Gk | a FA EXPERIMENTAL HIGH FREQUENCY APPARATUS —HOW TO MAKE AND USE IT. By Tuomas Srantey Curtis. This book tells you how to build simple high frequency coils for experimental purpose in the home, school laboratory, or on the small lecture platform, a supplement to the same author's “ High Frequency Apparatus.” The book is really The experimental side only is covered in this volume, which is intended for those who want to build small coils giving up to formation for the physi an eighteen-inch spark. interesting projects for his The book contains valuable in- r the manual training teacher who is on the lookout for The apparatus is boys to build or experiment with. simple, cheap and perfectly safe, and with it some truly startling experiments may be performed. Among the contents are: Induction Coil Outfits Operated on Battery Current. Kicking Coil Apparatus. and Materials, etc.,etc. 69pages. _One-Half ‘Kilowatt Transformer Outfit. Parts Illustrated. 16 Price . . . . . 50 cents CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prof. T. O’Conor Sioanz. The object of “Blectricity Simplified” is to make the subject as plain as possible and to show what the modern conception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different metal, immersed in acid, can send a message around the globe; to explain how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this age of electricity. 15th Revised Edition. 218 pages. Illustrated. Price . . $1.50 EVERYBODY’S ELECTRICAL HANDBOOK. Electrician. By Epwarp J. Vouk, Practical Anyone with the aid of this book can do almost any of the small electrical jobs about the home. Everything is written in plain language. It tells how to start, what to use, and every move until this work is completed. In repairing electrical devices it tells where to locate the trouble and how to repair it. You wwill find this book different from any other book you have ever read. Should be in every home. Second edition. Pocket size. 135 pages. 78 Illustrations. Price. . . . . $1.00 HIGH FREQUENCY APPARATUS, ITS CONSTRUCTION AND PRACTICAL APPLICATION. By Tuomas Srantey Curtis. ‘The most comprehensive and thorough work on this interesting subject ever produced. The book is essentially practical in its treatment and it constitutes an accurate record of the researches of its author over a period of several years, during which time dozens of coils were built and experimented ‘with. The work has been divided into six basic parts. The first two chapters tell the uninitiated reader what the high frequency current is, what it is used for, and how it is produced. The second section, comprising four chapters, describes in detail the principles of the transformer, condenser, spark gap, and oscillation transformer, and covers the main points in the design and construction of these devices as applied to the work in hand. ‘The third section covers the construction of small high frequency outfits designed for experimental work in the home laboratory or in the classroom. ‘The fourth section is devoted to electro- therapeutic and X-Ray apparatus. The fifth describes apparatus for the cultivation of plants and vegetables. ‘The sixth section is devoted to a comprehensive discussion of apparatus of large size for use upon the stage in spectacular productions. The closing chapter, giving the current prices of the parts and materials required for the construction of the apparatus described, is included with a view to expediting the purchase of the necessary goods. The Second Edition includes much new matter along the line of home-made therapeutic outfits for physicians’ use. The matter on electro plant culture has also been elaborated upon. Second. Revised and Enlarged Edition. 266 pages. New second edition. Fully illustrated. Price . $8.00 STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O’Conor Sioann. An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An en- tirely new edition. Should be in the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress of this branch of science. In its arrangement and typography the book is very convenient. The word or term defined is printed in black-faced type which readily catches the eye, while the body of the page isin smaller but distincttype. The definitions are well worded, and so as to be understood by the non-technical reader. The general plan seems to be to give an exact, concise definition, and then amplify and explain in a more popular way. Synonyms are also given, and references to other words and phrases are made. A very complete and accurate index of fifty pages is at the end of the volume; and as this index contains all synonyms, and as all phrases are indexed in every reasonable combination of words, reference to the proper piace in the body of the book is readily made. It is difficult to decide how far a book of this character is to keep the dictionary form, and to what extent it may assume the encyclopedia form. For some purposes, concise, exactly worded definitions are needed; for other purposes, more extended descriptions are required. This book seeks to satisfy both demands, and does it with considerable success. Complete, concise and convenient. 790 pages. 497 illustrations. New Revised and Enlarged Edition. Bes 17 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN. SLoaNnE. By Prof. T. O’Conor Every young man who wishes to become a successful electrician should read this book. Tt tells in simple language the surest and easiest. way to become a successful electrician. The studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirement, of the successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained. Every young en- gineer will find this an excellent stepping stone to more advanced works on electricity Which he must master before success can be attained. Many young men become discouraged at the very outstart by attempting to read and study books that are far beyond their comprehension. This book serves as the connecting link between the rudiments taught in the public schools and the real study of electricity. It is interesting from cover to cover. 19th Revised Edition, just issued. 205 pages. Tllustrated. are Price. STORAGE BATTERIES SIMPLIFIED. Sees By Vicror W. Pacs, M.S.A.E. A complete treatise on storage battery operating principles, repairs and applications. The greatly increasing application of storage batteries in modern engineering and mechanical work has created a demand for a book that will consider this subject completely and exclusively. This is the most thorough and authoritative treatise ever published on this subject. It is written in easily understandable, non-technical language so that anyone may_ grasp the basic principles of storage battery action as well as their practical industrial applications. All electric and gasoline automobiles use storage batteries. Every automobile repairman, dealer or salesman should have a good knowledge of maintenance and repair of these important elements of the motor ear mechanism. This book not only tells how to charge, care for and rebuild storage batteries but also outlines all the industrial uses. Learn how they run street cars, an understanding of the important functions they locomotives and factory trucks. Get perform in submarine boats, isolated lighting plants, railway switch and signal systems, marine applications, etc. This book tells how they are used in central station standby service, for starting automobile motors and in ignition systems. Every practical use of the modern storage battery is outlined in this treatise. 258 pages. Fully illustrated. Price . WIRING A HOUSE. . : . fo By Herserr Pratt. Shows a house already built; tells how to start about wiring it; where to begin; what wire to use; how to run it according to insurance rules; in fact, just the information you need. Directions apply equally to a shop. We have just issued an enlarged edition of this popular work, which has been brought up to date. ‘The same treatment of the subject which is distinguished by simplicity, combined with a correct presentation of the subject, from the standpoint of compliance with the Underwriter’s Code, and which characterized the earlier editions of the book is adhered to. The wiring as given is based on the twenty-five watt tungsten filament lamp, now as much The the standard as was the old sixteen candle carbon filament lamp of former da; modern tungsten filament gas-filled lamp of today has changed the whole phase of electric wiring of the home and factory, and this book not only tells of the wiring for an installation, but also gives some very Up-to-date suggestions on the subjects of selection of electroliers and fittings, location of lamps and base sockets with many practical hints for the location of lamps and plug sockets to get the best results. Seventh edi. 50 cents tion which has been entirely revised, and very much enlarged. Price . ELECTROPLATING THE MODERN ELECTROPLATER. By Kennera M. CocersHatn. This is one of the most complete and practical books on electroplating and allied rrocesses that has been published as a text for the student or professional plater. t is written in simple language and explains all details of electroplating in a concise yet complete manner. It starts at the beginning and gives an clementary outline of electricity and chemistry as relates to plating, then considers shop layout and equipment and gives all the necessary information to do reliable and profitable electroplating in a modern commercial manner. Full instructions are given for the preparation and finishing of the work and formulae and complete directions are included for making all kinds of plating solutions, many of these having been trade secrets until published in this instruction manual. | Anyone interested in practical plating and metal finishing will find this book a valuable guide and complete manual of the art. Cloth. 142 illustrations. 276 pages. Prico . . . . . . . . . $8.00 18 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS ELECTRO-DEPOSITION OF METALS. By Wituram T. Brant. Dr. Georce Lanapern and ‘The ninth corrected edition of this work contains everything anyone wants to know about the plating and finishing of metals, and is practically an encyclopedia of the It is written in plain language with special reference to the needs of the industry. practical plater and metal finisher, and gives hundreds of tested formulas for solu- i many of which have heretofore been considered trade secrets. It is the master on electro-plating, galvanizing, metal coloring, lacquering and electrotyping, and covers every detail of the present advanced state of the art in its everyday appli- cations. The interest of most readers will doubtless center in the main division of the volume—the practical part, which presents the industry in all its aspects from the arrangement of electro-plating establishme nts to actual methods used in the deposition of various metal It is here that the plater finds a treasury of practice that he may turn to direct account in his business. As a work of reference it is unapproached by any similar work in our language. ‘The formulas alone are worth many times the cost of the book to anyone interested in plating and other metal finishing methods. 863 pages. 185 illustrations. Price . . 2... nt ye BOO FUEL COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. M. Barr. By Wa. This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the combustion of the common fuels found in the United States, and deals particularly with the conditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coals in Stationary and Locomotive Steam Boilers. The presentation of this important subject is systematic and Progressive. The arrangement of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, which describe in language, free from technicalities, the several processes involved in the furnace combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect combustion, and points out the best methods for furnace constructi coal. on for obtaining the greatest quantity of heat from any given quality of 5th Edition. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price. - . $1.50 GAS AND OIL ENGINES THE GASOLINE ENGINE ON THE FARM: ITS OPERATI ON, REPAIR AND USES. By Xeno W. Purnam. ‘This is a practical treatise on the Gasoline and Kerosene Engine intended for the man who wants to know just how to manage his engine and how to apply it to all kinds of farm work to the best advantage. This book abounds with hints and helps for the farm and suggestions for the home and housewife. There is so much of value in this book that it is impossible to ade- quately describe it in such small space. every farmer will appreciate and every Suffice to say that it is the kind of a book farm home ought to have. Includes selecting the most suitable engine for farm work, its most convenient and efficient installation, with chapters on troubles, their remedies, and how to avoid them. he care and management of the farm tractor in plowing, harrowing, harvesting and road grading are fully covered; also plain directions are given for handling the tractor on the road. Special attention is given to relieving farm life of its drudgery by applying power to the disagreeable small tasks which must otherwise be done by hand. “Many home- made contrivances for cutting wood, supplying kitchen, garden, and barn with water, loading, hauling and unloading hay, delivering grain to the bins or the feed trough are included; also full directions for making the engine milk the cows, churn, wash, sweep the house and clean the windows, etc. Very fully illustrated with drawings of working parts and cuts showing Stationary, Portable and Tractor Engines doing all Kinds of farm work. All money-making farms utilize power. Learn how to utilize power by reading the pages of this book. It is an aid to the result getter, invaluable to the up-to-date farmer, student, blacksmit h, implement dealer and, in fact, all who can apply tage. practical knowledge of stationary gasoline engines or gas tractors to advan530pages. Nearly 180 engravings. Price... . . > + + » $8.00 19 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS By A. Hyarr GASOLINE ENGINES: THEIR OPERATION, USEAND CARE. VERRILL. The simplest, latest and most comprehensive popular work published on Gasoline Engines, describing what the Gasoline Engine is: its construction and operation; how to install it; how to select it; how to use it and how to remedy troubles encountered. Intended for Owners, Operators and Users of Gasoline Motors of all kinds. This work fully describes and illustrates the various types of Gasoline Engines used in Motor Boats, Motor Vehicles and Stationary Work. The parts, accessories and appliances are described, with chapters on ignition, fuel, lubrication, operation and engine troubles. Special attention is given to the care, operation and repair of motors, A complete with useful hints and suggestions on emergency repairs and makeshifts. glossary of technical terms and an alphabetically arranged table of troubles and their symptoms form most valuable and unique features of this manual. Nearly every illustration in the book is original, having been made by the author. Every page is full of interest and value. _A book which you cannot afford to be without. 275 pages. +++ .. . Price… 152 specially madeengravings + ++ $2.00 +–+ GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, OR HOW TO BUILD A HALF-HORSEPOWER GAS ENGINE. By Parsrit and WeEp. A practical treatise of 300 pages describing the theory and principles of the action of Gas Engines of various types and the design and construction of a half-horse-power Gas Engine, with illustrations of the work in actual progress. together with the dimen- sioned working drawings, giving clearly the sizes of the various details; for the student, the scientific investigator, and the amateur mechanic. This book treats of the subject more from the standpoint of practice than that of theory. The principles of operation of Gas Engines are clearly and simply described, and then the actual construction of a half-horse-power engine is taken up, step by step, showing in detail the making of the Gas Engine. 3d Edition. . . Price. 300 pages. – + – HOW TO RUN AND INSTALL GASOLINE ENGINES. Revised and enlarged edition just issued. + + + + + $8.00 By C. Von Cuuin. The object of this little book istofurnish a pocket instructor for the beginner, the busy man who uses an engine for pleasure or to thoroughly understand how to properly operate, install and care for his own engine. The index refers to each trouble, remedy, and subject alphabetically. Being a quick reference to find the cause, remedy and prevention for troubles, and to become an profit, but who does not have the time or inclination for a technical book, but simply Pocket size. expert with his own engine. Paper binding. Price . . 25 cents GEARING AND CAMS CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Prrrico. ‘A practical book for every designer, draftsman, and mechanic interested in the invenrequirtion and development of the devices for feed changes on the different. machines ing such mechanism, All the necessary information on this subject is taken up, the analyzed, classified, sifted, and concentrated for the use of busy men who have not time to go through the masses of irrelevant matter with which such a subject is usually encumbered and select such information as will be useful to them. It shows just what has been done, how it has been done, when it was done, and who did it. Edition: It saves time in hunting up patent records and re-inventing old ideas. te, Ss LOU pages s Sc) eet aah. he CAMS, LAYOUT AND DRAFTING. ek ve tee Sega et i + 3rd. 1.50 By Lours Rovmuon. A practical work on various forms of cams and their design including useful sugges2. Contents: 1. Laying Out_Cams. tions for laying out and drafting typical forms. Drafting Cam Curve. 3. Heart Shape Cam. 4. Positive Motion Cam. 5. Trregular Motion Cam. 6. Toe and Lift Cam. 7. Double Contact Cam. 8. Cylindrical Cam. 9. Cam Belt Shifter. 10. Gas Engine Cams. 11. Cam for Mushroom Follower. 12. Non-reversible Cams. 13. Reversible Cam. 14. Variable Motion. 15. Harmonic Motion. 16. Motion Diagram. 17. Flat Reciprocating Cam. 18. Sleeve Cam. 19. Face and Drum Cams. 20. Device for Cam Drafting. Revised and Enlarged Edition. Paper cover. Price BO ae Oed is gs 20 aye e ot Te Sec OR COMES CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRAC TICAL BOOKS HYDRAULICS HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Garpner D. Hiscox. A treatise on the properties, power, and resources the measurement of streams, the How of water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling water, turbine and impact water-wheels, wave motors, centrifu gal, reciprocating and airlift pumps. With 300 figures and diagrams and 36 practic All who are interested in wateral tables. works development will find this book a useful one, because it is an entirely practica l treatise upon a subject of present importance, and cannot fail in having a far-rea ching infiuence, and for this reason should have a place in the working library of every engineer. Among the subjects treated are: Historical Hydraulics, Properties of Water, Measurement of the Flow of Streams; Flowing Water Suface Orifices and Nozzles ; Flow of Water in Pipes; Siphons of Various Kinds; Dams and Great Storag e Reservoirs; City and Town Water Supply; Wells and Their Reinforcement; Air Lift Methods of Raising Water: Artesian ‘Wells, irrigation of Arid Districts; Water Power; Water-Wheels; Pumps and Pumping Machinery; Reciprocating Pumps; Hydraulic Power ‘Transmissio Hydraulic Mining; Canals; Dredges; Conduit s’ and Pipe Lines; Marine Hydrau lics; Tidal and Sea Wave Power, etc. 320 Pages, “Price Sis – $4.50 ICE AND REFRIGERATION POCKETBOOK OF REFRIGERATIO N Watuis-Taytor. AND ICE MAKING. By A. J. This is one of the latest and most comprehensive reference books published on the subject of refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the management of refrige rating machinery and the construction and insulat ion of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for differe nt degrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non-fre ezing brines, temperatures of cold for_all kinds of provisions, cold rooms storage charges for all Classes of goods, ice making and storage of ice, datia and memor anda for constant reference by refrigerating engineers. with nearly one hundred tables containing valuable references to every fact and con. dition required in the install ment and operation of a refrige rating plant. edition just New published. 216 pages. “44 illustrations. Price . 2. $2.00 INVENTIONS—PATENTS INVENTORS’ MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT PAY, This is a book designed as a guide to invento rs in perfecting their inventions, taking out their patents and disposi ng of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor’s ‘ireular nor a Patent Broker’s Adverti sement. appear in i the work. inventor, No advertisoments of any description It is a book containing a quarter of a century’s experie nce of a togethe r with notes based upon the experience of many other Among the subjects treated in this work are: How to Invent. Good Patent. How to Secure a Value of Good Invention, How to Exhibit_an Invention. Interest Capital. How to How to Estimate the Value of a Patent. Value of Design Patents. Value of Foreign Patents. Value of Small Inventions. “Advice on Selling Patents, Advice on the Formation of Stock Companies. |Advice on the Formation of Limite Liability Companies. d Advice Attorneys. tracts. on Disposing of Old Patent s. Advice as to Patent Advice as to Selling Agent: Forms of Assignments. License and Con- State Laws Concerning Patent Rights. Counts of Over 10,000 Population. 1920 Census of the United States by ‘Third revised edition. 21 188 pages. Illustrated. CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS KNOTS VERRILL. KNOTS, SPLICES AND ROPE WORK. By A. Hyarr for making all the most This is a practical book giving complete and simple directions Pointing, use, with chapters on Splicing, and fifty useful and ornamental knots in common hundred book is fully illustrated withis one Seizing, Serving, etc. This formed, and its appearhow each knot, tie or splicevalue original engravings, which showwill Campers, Yachtsto greatest the of found be ance when finished. ‘The book rope to anyone having occasion to use or handle men, Travelers, Boy Scouts, in fact, and is not practical, and reliable y thoroughl is book The or knots for any purpose. the Among the subject. It is the standard ‘work on only a guide, but a teacher.Kinds Parts of Rope of Rope. Construction of Rope, contents are: 1. Cordage, and Knots Simple 2. Rope, Weight of Rope. Ties Cable and Bolt Rope. Strength ofRope. and Hitches. 4. Seizing Rope. 3. Bends. Terms Used in Handling and Salvages. 6. Knots. 5. Shortenings, Grommets Noose, Loops and Mooring Third revised Work. Rope and Knots Fancy 7 Splices. Lashings, Seizings and » + + + + $1.00 edition. 104 pages. 154 original engravings. Price , LATHE WORK OPERATION, WITH PRACTICAL LATHE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, AND By Oscar E. Purrico. EXAMPLES OF LATHE WORK. on the subject, written only complete American workbut ‘A new revised edition, and the how who also knows how work ought to be done, strictly by a man who knows not only in its is It others. to knowledge this to do it, and how to conveys. Lathe history and the relations of theupsto-ete lathe to manus descriptions and illustration thread and feeds for devices various the of description a facturing are given; also early efforts in this direction to the present time. Lathe cutting mechanisms from ting back gearing, driving cones, thread-cut design is thoroughly discussed. including ion of lathes of the modern lathe. The classificat gears, and all the essential elements including, lathes of types several the of differences is taken up, giving the essential lathes bench lathes, speed lathes, forge lathes, gap as is usually understood, engine pindle lathes rapid-reductior lathes, Jathes, pulley lathes, forming lathes, multiple-s In addilathes, electrically-driver lathes etc matter precision lathes, turret lathes, special on design much practical and n constructio on tion to the complete exposition edi1915 enlarged incorporated in the lathe installation, care and operationtshasforbeen and described are etc., milling, drilling, tion. All kinds of lathe attachmen machinist to grasp the art of lathe complete instructions are given to enable thein novice of difficult machining involved design. A numberedition operation as well as the principles has nearly 500 The new operations are described at length and illustrated. $3.00 e+ 5 se + + + + ©. Price pages and 350 illustrations. LATHE WORK FOR BEGINNERS. By Rarmonp Francis Yarus. of a those desiring to learn the operation lathe A simple, straightforward text-book forThe first chapter tells how to choose a Wwood-turning or metal-turning lathe. advanced. more and Simple described. are market the on and all of the standard types of all lathe attachments such as lathe work is thoroughly covered and the operation The treatment starts from the very millers, grinders, polishers, etc., is described. where he will be able to handle the bottom and leads the reader through to a point instruction. The last chapter of the larger commercial ‘machines with very little and includes a model rapid-fire naval pook is devoted to things to make on theinlathe this country that treats lathe work from gun. This is the only book published . About 250 Paces, oe standpoint of the amateur mechanic. 162 illustrations TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By Frep H. Cotvin. way and one other. This treatise has ‘There are two ways to turn tapers; the right to set the how to start the work properly, howlittle +o do with the right way; it tells you things and forty and one other them, use to how and lathe, what tools to use CORES OW oe ecu, = oes that you should know. Fifth edition. Price 22 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS LIQUID AIR LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES. By T. O’Conor Stoans. This book gives the history of the theory, discovery, and manufacture of Liquid Air, and contains an illustrated description of all the experiments that have excited the wonder of audiences all over the country. It shows how liquid air, like water, is carried hundreds of miles and is handled in open buckets. It tells what may be expected from it in the near future. A book that renders simple one of the most perplexing chemical problems of the century. Startling developments illustrated by actual experiments. It is not only a work of scientific interest and authority, but is intended for the general reader, being written in edition, a popular style—easily understood Revised and Enlarged. 394 pages. New Edition. by. everyone. Price . . . ird $8.00 LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Rozserr H. BuacKkann. This book is a standard text-book. _It coyers the Westinghouse Air-Brake Equipment, including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E, T. Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick Service) Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump. The operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail, and a practical way of finding their peculiarities and defects, with a proper remedy, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with their answers, which will enable any railroad man to pass any examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used by_air-bra! tors and examiners on nearly every railroad in the United States. “New edition. pages, fully illustrated with colored plates and diagrams. Price. . . 710 . . $4.00 COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE-PREVENTION OF SMOKE. M. Barr. By Wm. This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the combustion of the common fuels found in the United States and deals particularly with the conditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coai in Stationary and Locomotive Steam Boilers. Presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The ar- rangement of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, which describe in language free from technicalities the several processes involved in the furnace combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect combustion, and points out the best methods of furnace construction for obtaining the greatest quantity of heat from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price. DIARY OF A ROUND-HOUSE FOREMAN. . . . . . . . . . $1.50 By T. S. Remuy. This is the greatest book of railroad experiences ever published. Containing a fund of information and suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., that one cannot afford to miss. 158 pages. Price. . . . 2… ee we. $1.25 LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By Frank A. Kurrnnans. The construction of boilers in general is treated, and, following this, the locomotive boiler is taken up in the order in which its various parts go through the shop. Shows all types of boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of riveting, punches and dies; work done per day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets, and other data. Including the recent Locomotive Boiler Inspection Laws and Examination Questions with their answers for Government Inspectors. Contains chapters on Laying Out Work; Flanging and Forging; Punching; Shearing; Plate Planing; General Tables; Finishing Parts; Bending; Machinery Parts; Riveting; Boiler Details; Smoke Box Details; Assembling and Calking; Boiler Shop Machinery, etc., etc. ‘ : ‘There isn’t a man who has anything to do with boiler work, either new or repair work, who doesn’t need this book. The manufacturer, superintendent, foreman, and boiler worker—all need it. No matter what the type of boiler, you’ll find a mint of information that you wouldn’t be without. 451 pages, 334 illustrations, five large folding plates: Price oe ence eee el eee ee a es SSO 33 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REMEDIES. By Gzo. L. Fowzer. Revised by Wm. W. Woop, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued. Revised pocket edition. that is covered in this It is out of the question to try and tell you about every subject pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles unexpected. add all of the to happen some time, and then that an engineer may expect about, and you will never thought you have but that contd occur, with troubles that ones, of repair. Walschaert methods best very the treated all are they ‘that find as well as Questions Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, 8th Revised Edition. and Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 293 pages. $1.50 <8 Core Onis . . . Fully illustrated. PREVENTION OF RAILROAD ACCIDENTS, OR SAFETY IN RAILROADING By Grorcr BrapsHaw. dealing with facts, not This book is a heart-to-heart talk with Railroad Employees, experience, how accidents theories, and showing the men in the ranks, from every-day with seventy original illustrated is book ‘The avoided. be may they how and occur methods of work. No visionphotographs and drawings showing the safe and unsafe Suggestions are given. ary schemes, no ideal pictures. Just plain facts and Practical and safer man to have in Every railroad employee who reads the book is a better the means of preventing railroad service. It gives just the information which will beprocure a copy: read it, should many injuries and deaths. All railroad employees Pocket size. Fully austere pages. 169 accidents. preventing in part your do and cents se: wiapieatepisas : Price. 2 2 2 ‘THE WALSCHAERT AND OTHER MODERN RADIAL VALVE GEARS FOR LOCOMOTIVES. By Wu W Woop. possess a If you would thoroughly understand the Walschaert Valve Gear you shouldstationary copy of this book, as the author takes the plainest form of a steam engine—a it builds from d direction—an one in crank its turn only will that rough, the in engine the Walschaert up_—with the reader’s help—a modern locomotive equipped with two folding large illustrated; clearly are discussed points 'The complete. Gear, Vaive admission type, as plates that show the positions of the valves of both inside or outside different points well as the links and other parts of the gear when the crank is at nine clear. These employ in its revolution, are especially valuable inmaking the movement sliding cardboard models which are contained in a pocket in the cover. of the gear. Analysis 1. The book is divided into five general divisions, as follows: Questions and 2, Designing and er cling the gear. 3. Advantages of the gear. 4. with the Walvalves Setting Walschaert Valve Gear. 5. answers relating to the schaert Valve Gear; the three primary types of locomotive: yalve motion; modern radial valve gears other than the Walschaert; the Hobart All-free Valve and Valve Gear, with questions and answers on breakdowns; the Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear; the Improved Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear, with questions and answers on breakdowns. The questions with full answers given will be especially valuable to firemen and engineers in preparing for an examination for promotion. 245 pages. Fully illustrated. Third Revised New Edition. Price . . - - + + $2.50 WESTINGHOUSE E-T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION POCKET BOOK. By Wa. W. Woon, Air-Brake Instructor. book for the railroad man, and the man who aims to be one. It is without Here is a doubt the only complete work published on the Westinghouse E-T Locomotive Brake It Equipment. ‘Written by an Air-Brake Instructor who knows just what is needed. covers the subject thoroughly. Everything about the New Westinghouse Engine and Tender Brake Equipment, including the standard No. 5 and the Perfected No. 6 Written in plain English and profusely illustrated with Colored Plates, which enable one to trace the flow of pressures throughout, the style of brake, is treated in detail. entire equipment. ‘The best book ever published on the Air Brake. Equally good for the beginner and the advanced engineer. _ Will pass anyone through any examination. Indispensable to every engineman and ae informs and enlightens you on every point. rainman. Contains examination questions and answers on the E-T equipment. Covering, what the E-T Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when defective. Not a question can be asked of the engineman up for promotion, on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E-T equipment, that_is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thoroughly understand the E-T equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examinations easy. Second Revised and Enlarged Edition. Price 2. - 2 24 6 6 6 + 8 ee ee CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By Frep H. Corvin, Associate Editor of American Machinist. A handy book for the engineer or machinist that clears up the mysteries of valve setting. Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why. Piston and slide valves of different types are illustrated and explained. A hook that every Contains chapters on railroad man in the motive power department ought to have. Locomotive Link Motion, Valve Movements, Setting Slide Valves, Analysis by Diagrams, Modern Practice, Slip of Block, Slice Valves, Piston Valves, Setting Piston Valves, Joy-Allen Valve Gear, Walschaert Valve Gear, Gooch Valve Gear, AlfreeHubbeil Valve Gear, etc., etc. 3rd Edition, 101 pages. Fully illustrated. Age i cents MACHINE-SHOP PRACTICE ABRASIVES AND ABRASIVE WHEELS. By Frep B. Jacors. meeting Of A new book for everyone interested in abrasives or grinding. A careful the book will not only make mechanics better able to use abrasives intelligently, but it will also tell the shop superintendent of many short cuts and efficiency-increasing kinks. The economic advantages in using large grinding wheels are fully explained, together with many other things that will tend to give the superintendent or workman a keen insight into abrasive engineering. indispensable book for every machinist. 340 pages. ,174 illustrations. COMPLETE PRACTICAL MACHINIST. . . Price . . . . . This is an $8.00 + By Josuva Ross. The new, twentieth revised and enlarged edition is now ready. This is one of the best-known books on machine-shop work, and written for the practical workman in the language of the workshop. It gives full, practical instructions on the use of all kinds of metal-working tools, both hand and machine, and tells how the work should be properly done. It covers lathe work, vise work, drills and drilling, taps and dies, hardening and tempering, the making and use of tools, tool grinding, marking out work, machine tools, etc. No machinist’s library is complete without this . $8.00 . . volume. 20th Edition. 547 pages. 432 illustrations. Price . HOME MECHANIC’S WORKSHOP COMPANION. By Anprew Jackson, Jr. This treatise includes a compilation of useful suggestions that cannot fail to interest the handy man, and while it is not intended for mechanical experts or scientists, it will prove to be a veritable store of information for anyone who desires to rig up a small shop where odd jobs can be carried on. 159 pages. 641 illustrations. Price 75 cents MACHINE-SHOP TOOLS AND SHOP PRACTICE. By W. H. Vanpsrvoort. A work of 552 pages and 672 illustrations, describing in every detail the construction, operation, and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. Includes chapters on filing. ‘fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, reamers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding machines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing, belting, and transmission machinery; Price $8.00 useful data and tables. 7th Edition. 552 pages. 672 illustrations. SHOP PRACTICE FOR HOME MECHANICS. By Raymonp FRANciIs YarTEs. A thoroughly practical and helpful treatment prepared especially for those who have ‘The introduction is given over to an elehad little or no experience in shop wor! mentary explanation of the fundamentals of mechanical science. This is followed by several chapters on the use of small tools and mechanical measuring instruments. Elementary and more advanced lathe work is treated in detail and directions given for the construction of a number of useful shop appliances. Drilling and reaming, heat treatment of tool steel, special lathe operations, pattern making, grinding, and grinding operations, home foundry work, etc., make up the rest of the volume. The book omits nothing that will be of use to those who use tools or to those who wish to learn the use of tools The great number of clear engravings (over 300) add tremendously to the text matter and to the value of the volume as a visual instructor. Octavo, 320 pages. 309 engravings. Price 25 . . . ...-+--.- . $8.00 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS THE WHOLE FIELD OF MECHANICAL MOVEMENT S COVERED BY MR. HISCOX’S TWO BOOKS We publish two books by Gardner D. Hiscox that will keep you from “inventing” things that have been done before, and suggest ways of doing things that you have not thought of before. Many a man spends time and money, pondering over some mechanical problem, only to learn, after he has solved the problem, that the same thing has been accomplished and put in practice by others long before. Time and money spent in an effort to accomplish what has already been accomplished are time and money LOST. The whole field Of mechanics, every known mechanical movement, and practically every device is covered by these two books. If the thing you want has been invented, it is illustrated in them. If at hasn’t been invented, then you'll find in them the nearest things to what you want, some movements or devices that will apply in your case, perhaps; or which will give you a key from which to work. No book or set of books ever published is of more real value to the Inventor, Draftsman, or practical Mechanic than the two volumes described below. MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DEVICES. By Garpyur D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1,890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, accompani ed by appropriate text, making it a book of great value to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all readers with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections or chapters, in which the subject-ma tter is classified under the following heads: Mechanical Powers; Transmission of Power; Measurement of Power; Steam Power; Air Power Appliances; Electric Power and Construction; Navigation and Roads; Gearing; Motion and Devices; Controlling Motion; ‘Horological Mining; Mill and Factory Appliances; Constructi on and Devices; Drafting Device: Miscellaneous Devices, etc. 17th_edition enlarged. 409 octavo pages. Price . $4.00 MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVEME NTS AND NOVELTIES OF CONSTRUCTION By Garpner D. Hiscox. This is a supplementary volume to the one upon Mechanical Movements. Unlike the first volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations and descriptions of many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices and appliances found in different lines of machinery, each device being shown by a line drawing with a description showing its working parts and the method of operation. From the multitude of devices described and illustrated might be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers, solar enginés, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various descriptions, airships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles, railway lock signals, car couplers, link and gear motions, ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance. 1,000 specially made engravings 412 octavo pages. 5th Edition enlarged. Price .'. . . . $4.00 SHOP KINKS. By Rosert Grimsuaw. A book of 417 pages and 261 illustrations, being entirely different from any other book on machine-shop practice. Departing from conventional style, the author avoids universal or common shop usage and limits his work to showing special ways of doing things better, more cheaply and more rapidly than usual. As a result the advanced methods of representative establishments of the world are placed at the disposal of the reader. This book shows the proprietor where large savings are possible, and how products may be improved. To the employee it holds out suggestions that, properly applied, will hasten his advancement. No shop can afford to be without it, it bristles with valuable wrinkles and helpful suggestions. apprentice to proprietor. 6th edition. Price. THREADS AND THREAD-CUTTING. . . . . It will benefit all, from 2... . . $8.00 By Cotvin and Sraseu. This clears up many of the mysteries of thread-cutt ing, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and several tables.’ 4th edition. Price... 26 . . . . . . . 36 cents CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS MACHINE-SHOP ARITHMETIC. By Convin-Cueney.| plainly have to do with daily. Tt tells you This is an arithmetic of the things you to find surface or volume of balls or spheres; about: how to find areas in figures; how gearing; cutting screw threads on any handy ways for calculating; about compound taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling lathe; drilling for taps; speeds of drills;with conversion tables; properties of metals; cutters, etc.; all about the Metric system of machine-shop equivalent of an inch. All sortsworth strength of bolts and nuts; decimalany more than one of which ought to be figuring and 1,001 other things, the boss. 8th bothering of trouble the you saves it and you, to book this of the price 18 cents > et eee 2 > edition. 144 pages. Price… . – + – + MODEL MAKING and Construction of MODEL MAKING Including Workshop Practice, Design of “Everyday Engineering Models. Edited by Raymonp F. Yares. Editor Magazine.” ‘This book will help you to become a better mechanic. Itis full of suggestions for those alike. It has been prepared eswho like to make things, amateur and professional Some may be engineers, machinists, jewpecially for men with mechanical hobbies. Men from various walks of presidents. bank or clerks office makers, pattern elers, a help and engineering. Mopet Maxine will beke”’ fife have a peculiar interest in model things ‘ how-to-do” and “how-to-ma an inspiration to such men. It tells them working clear good, of full is it this, in simple, understandable terms. Not only has model Hach described. apparatus and models the of hs photograp and drawings if it is made according to directions.- Second been constructed and actually works 3.00 . Price. s. illustration 337 pages. 428 ition. enlargedjed revised_and SHIP MODEL MAKING precise instruction on making The only published books that meet the large demandofforbooks—bein g so artistically pubship models. They are a new departure in thisto class work with. lished they are a pleasure to have, to read and HOW TO MAKE WORTH-WHILE MODELS OF DECORATIVE SHIPS. By Caprain E. Armrrace McCann. : any handy person can make models A practical and timely book which tells how Galleon, and a Beautiful Spanish Treasure of a picturesque Barbary Pirate Felucca The author, known as ‘“‘one of the expense. without with a few simpie tools and almost fullgives in Suir MopEL Maxine world’s leading authorities on ship. models,” what This book describes how to make them, sized drawings of every part required. and spars the and color them, how to make material to use, how to fasten together models—the book deneed to know ships to make theseand rig the ships. One does not and sense artistic use one’s Own. ingenuity ‘scribes everything in detail, yet one may scale given. Profusely illustrated, scale drawmake them larger or smaller_than the $2.50 ings, colored frontispiece. Price. . – – + + + + 5 es tot HOW TO MAKE A MODE! OF THE U. S. FRIGATE “CONSTITUTION.” By Caprain E Armrracs McCann ship which e interest in ‘Old Ironsides’’—the Every true Americar has an affectionat being reconditioned the flag to victory and is now for more than 100 years has carried the Navy. of spirit le indominab the represents she by public subscription, because authorities on Ship Models,” tells how, This volume, by “one of the ‘world’s leading make a simplified or exhaustively particular, anyone can without previousthistraining, ship. scale model of to the finished required,ffrom tools and material The ample description of everything illustrations from and more than 100 specially mademakes model, aided by full sized plansand the building the latest reconstruction plans, original contemporary sources complete in itself from start of the model sure and simple. Technically correct and to finish. fully illustrated. Colored frontispiece. Price . . . + + $2.60 27 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS HOW TO MAKE A CLIPPER SHIP. By Capra E. Armrracn McCann. This practical and timely book tells how any handy person can make a model of the American Clipper Ship “Sovereign of the Seas’’—Donald McKay’s most beautiful vessel. The author, with ample descriptions, illustratio ns and full-sized plans of every part, tells how, with a few tools, anyone can make a simplified model, which, while retaining the general appearance, eliminates much worl ie also gives all the details for those who desire them. ‘The entire buildiand ng rigging are given to scale from start to finish. Either simplified or with complete details. Profusely illustrated, scale drawings, colored frontispiece. Price… . . 2 . – $2.50 MANUAL TRAINING ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By Louis Rourrnion. The only book published that gives just the informatio n needed by all interested in Manual Training, regarding Buildings, Equipment , and Supplies. Shows exactly what is needed for all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and Normai School. Gives itemized lists of everything used in Manual Training Work and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy supplies, etc. 174 pages, and is fully illustrated. 2d edition. Price… . . 2. Contains $2.00 MINING PROSPECTOR’S FIELD-BOOK AND GUIDE. By H. 8. Ossorn. Ninth edition, revised and enlarged by M. W. von Bernewitz. this volume was published in 1910. The last edition of _Ié and thé previous seven editions were suitable for those times. “The new ninth edition will be found suitable for the present time. ‘While the old-time prospector will always be an important factor, the knowledge of and search for the common and rarer minerals is bringing out men who are trained to some degree. In the field they need a handy and suggestive pocket-book containing hints on prospecting—where to search and how to test—couched in simple terms. 364 pages, (57 illustrations, “Price ke he BOO, MOTORCYCLES MOTORCYCLES AND SIDE CARS, THEIR CONSTR UCTION, MANAGEMENT AND REPAIR. By Vicror W. Paas, M.E. This treatise outlines fully the operatio n of two- and four-cycle power plants and all ignition, carburetion and lubrication systems in detail. Describes all resentative types of free engine clutches, variable speed gears and power miissi systems. Gives complete instructions for operatin g and repairing all types. Considers fully electric self-starting and lighting systems, all types of spring frames and spring forks and shows leading control methods. For those desiring technical informat ion a complete series of tables and many formulae to assist in designing are included. The work tells how to figure power needed to climb grades, overcome air resistance and attain high speeds. It shows how to select gear ratios for various weights and powers, how to figure braking efficienc y required, gives sizes of belts and chains to wansmit power safely, and shows how to design sprockets, belt pulleys, etc. This work also includes complete formulae for figuring horse-power, shows how dynamometer tests are made, defines relative efficiency of airand water-cooled engines, plain and anti-friction bearings and many other data of a practica l, helpful, engineer ing nature. 2nd Edition. 693 pages. 371 specially made illustrations. Cloth. WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: * Here is a book that should be in the cycle repairer’s kit.”— American Blacksmith. « The best way for any rider to thoroughly unders tand his machine, is to get a copy of this book; it is worth many times its price.” —Pacific Motorcyclist. 28 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS MOTOR BOATS ” MOTOR BOATS AND BOAT MOTORS. By Vicror W. Paci anp A. GC. Lerten. All who are interested in motor boats, either as owners, builders or repairmen, will find this latest work a most comprehensive treatise on the design, construction, operation and repair of motor boats and their power plants. It is really two complete books in one cover as it consists of two parts, each complete in itself. Part One deals with THe HULL AND Irs Firrines, Part Two considers THE PowsR PLANT snp Its AUXILIARINS. A valuable feature of this book is the complete set of dimensioned working drawings detailing the construction of five different types of boats ranging from a 16-foot shallow draft, tunnel stern general utility craft to a 25-foot cabin cruiser. These plans are by A. ©. Leitch, a practical boat builder and expert naval architect, and are complete in every particular. Full instructions are given for the selection of a power plant and its installation in the hull. Valuable advice is included on boat and engine operation and latest designs of motors are described and illustrated. The instructions for overhauling boat and engine are worth many times the small work of reference for all interested in motor cost of the book. It is a comprehensive Boaune in any of its phases. Octavo. Cloth. 372 illustrations. 524 pases. x Jule oe enna ies hat ee er Om ere. He et aay Gost. aie PATTERN MAKING PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. Barrows. This book, now in its third edition, is a comprehensive and entirely practical treatise on the subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in both wood andItmetal, gives and with definite instructions on the use of plaster of Paris in the trade. specific and detailed descriptions of the materials used by pattern. makers and describes the tools, both those for the bench and the more interesting machine tools; paving complete chapters on the Lathe, the Circular Saw, and the Band Saw. It gives many examples of pattern work, each one fully illustrated and explained with much detail. These examples, in their great variety, offer much that will be found of interest to all pattern makers, and especially to the younger ones, who are seeking information on the more advanced branches of their trade. In this second edition of the work will be found much that is new, even to those who have long practiced this exacting trade. In the description of patterns as adapted to the Moulding Machine many difficulties which have long prevented the rapid and economical production of castings are overcome; and this great, new branch of the trade is given much space. Stripping plate and stool plate work and the less expensive vibrator, or rapping plate work, are all explained in detail. Plain, everyday rules for lessening the cost of patterns, with a complete system of cost keeping, a detailed method of marking, applicable to all branches of the trade, with complete information showing what the pattern is, its specific title, its cost, date of production, material of which it is made, the number of pieces and coreboxes, and its location in the pattern safe, all condensed into a most complete card record, with cross index. The book closes with an original and_practical method for the inventory and valua- tion of patterns. Third Edition. Containing nearly 355 pages and 169 illustrameee) HONS EPTICR waa) ae loc ok Genet ih yore eg! Poe “ia inne lg Oe PERFUMERY PERFUMES AND COSMETICS, THEIR PREPARATION AND MANUFACTURE. By G. W. Asxinson, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of value to the perfumer or manufacturer of toilet preparations. Complete directions handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; for maki preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity, and wholesale manufacture, including a chapter on synthetic products, with formulas for their use. A book of general, as well as professional in- terest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and perfume manufacturer, but also of the general public. Fifth Edition. 392 pages, illustrated. Price $6.00 29 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS PLUMBING MECHANICAL DRAWING FOR PLUMBERS. By R. M. Srarsucs. A concise, comprehensive and practical treatise on the subject of mechanical drawing in its various modern applications to the work of all who are in any way connected with the plumbing trade. Nothing will so help the plumber in estimating and in explaining work to customers and workmen as a knowledge of drawing, and to the workman it is of inestimable value if he is to rise above his position to positions of greater responsibility. Among the chapters contained are: 1, Value to plumber of knowledge of drawing; tools required and their use; common views needed in mechan- ical drawing. 2. Perspective versus mechanical drawing in showing plumbing construction, 3. Correct and incorrect methods in plumbing drawing; plan and elevation explained. 4. Floor and cellar plans and elevation; scale drawings; use of triangles. 5. Use of triangles; drawing of fittings, traps, etc. and fittings. of drawings. ‘6. Drawing plumbing elevations 7. Instructions in drawing plumbing elevations. plumbing fixtures; scale drawings. 11. Shading of drawings. drawings; drawing of threads. “8. The drawing of 9. Drawings of fixtures and fittings. 12. Shading of drawings. 10. Inking 13. Sectionai 14. Plumbing elevations from architect’s plan. 15. Ele- vations of separate parts of the plumbing system. 16. Elevations from the architect’s plans. 17. Drawings of detail plumbing connections. 18. Architect’s plans and plumbing elevations of residence. 19. Plumbing elevations of residence (continued); plumbing plans for cottage. 20. Plumbing elevations; roof connections. 21. Plans and plumbing elevations for six-flat building. ing system; use of scales. 22. Drawing of various parts of the plumb- 23. Use*of architect’s scales. illustrations of country plumbing. 24. Special features in the 25. Drawing of wrought-iron piping, valves, radia- tors, coils, etc. 26. Drawing of piping to illustrate heating systems. 27. ings for Plumbers’ Examinations. 123 pages. 160 illustrations. Price . MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. ’Draw$2.00 By R. M. Srarsuck. This book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has been adopted and used as a, reference book by the United States Government, in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto Rico, and the Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United States and Canada. It gives connections, sizes and working data for all fixtures and groups of fixtures. It is helpful to the master plumber in demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It gives the mechanic and student quick and easy access to the best modern plumbing practice. Suggestions for estimating plumbing construction are contained inits pages. This book represents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice and should be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer and plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute on_this important feature of construction. Contains following chapters, each illustrated with a full-page plate: Kitchen sink, Jaundry tubs, vegetable wash sink; lavatories, pantry sinks, contents of marble slabs; bath tub, foot and sitz bath, shower bath; water closets, venting of water closets; low- down water closets, water closets operated by flush valves, water closet range; slop sink, urinals, the bidet; hotel and restaurant sink, grease trap; refrigerators, safe wastes, laundry waste, lines of refrigerators, bar sinks, soda fountain sinks; horse stall, frost-proof water closets; connections for $ traps, venting; connections for drum traps; soil pipe connections; supporting of soil pipe; main trap and fresh air inlet; floor drains and cellar drains, subsoil drainage; water closets and floor connections; local venting: connections for bath rooms; connections for bath rooms, continued; connections for bath rooms, continued; connections for bath rooms, continued; examples of poor practice; roughing work ready for test; testing of plumbing system; method of con- tinuous venting; continuous venting for two-floor work; continuous venting for two lines of fixtures on three or more floors; continuous venting of water closets: plumb- ing for cottage house; construction for cellar piping; plumbing for residence, use of special fittings; plumbing for two-flat house; plumbing for apartment building, plumbing for double apartment building; plumbing for office building; plumbing for public toilet rooms; plumbing for public toilet rooms, continued; plumbing for bath establishment; plumbing for engine house, factory plumbing; automatic flushing for schools, factories, etc.; use of flushing valves; urinals for public toilet rooms: the Durham system, the destruction of pipes by electrolysis; construction of work without use of lead; automatic sewage lift; automatic sump tank; country plumbing; construc- tion of cesspools; septic tank and automatic sewage siphon; country plumbing; water supply for country house; thawing of water mains and service by electricity; double boilers; hot water supply of large buildings; automatic control of hot water tank; sug- gestion for estimating plumbing construction. 407 octavo pages, fully illustrated by 70 full-page engravings. Fifth, revised and enlarged edition. “Price ©. . . $5.00 30 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS STANDARD PRACTICAL PLUMBING. By R. M. Srarsuck. A complete practical treatise of 450 pages covering the subject of Modern Plumbing in all its branches, a large amount of space being devoted to a very complete and precticn’ treatment of the subject of Hot Water Supply and Circulation and Range oiler Work. Its thirty chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think of, making it an indispensable work to the master plumber, the journeyman plumber, and the apprentice plumber, containing chapters on: the plumber’s tools; wiping solder; composition and use; joint wiping; lead work; traps; siphonage of traps; venting; continuous venting; house sewer and sewer connections; house drain; soil piping, roughing; main trap and fresh air inlet; floor, yard, cellar drains, rain leaders, etc.; fixture wastes; water closets; ventilation; improved plumbing connec- tions; residence plumbing; plumbing for hotels, schools, factories, stables, etc.; of sewage and water supply; hot and cold modern country plumbing; filtration supply; range boilers; circulation; circulating pipes; range boiler problems; hot water for large buildings; water lift and its use; multiple connections for hot water boilers; heating of radiation by supply system; theory for the plumber; drawing for the plumber. Eighth revised and enlarged edition. 444 pages. Fully illustrated AOU: ee ae ep seo aN Ss Soe by 364 engravings. Price RADIO BOOKS ou ABC OF VACUUM TUBES USED IN RADIO RECEPTION. By E. H. WIS. This is the book for the person who wishes to know what goes on in the inside of a vacuum tube when it is used in a radio receiving circuit. It is especially valuable to the person who knows nothing about radio and very little if anything about electricity. No previous technical knowledge is necessary to understand it. The book is also of great value to the experimenter who is just taking up the fascinating study of vacuum tube operation. Starting with an explanation of elementary electrical terms and list of symbols the functioning of various vacuum tubes as detectors and amplifiers is explained step by, step in an easily understandable manner. ‘The subject of speech distortion, one of frequently encountered in radiophone reception: today, is discussed and. the difficul its elimination pointed out. Various practical circuits are shown and discussed. No technical terms are used without their meaning being first explained. 132 pages. 75 cents . . 4 e 2 2 2 / . 2. 48 illustrations. Price. CONSTRUCTION OF A MODERN SUPER-HETERODYNE TYPE RECEIVER INCLUDING TESTING AND OPERATION. By a Staff of Radio Engineers —Joun E. Anperson, Arruur C. C. Minis and Ermer H. Lewis. This booklet with the drawings accompanying same give the most detailed informa- tion on the complete construction of a modern type of Super-Heterodyne which is extremely sensitive, selective and non-radiating and at the same time insures excellent. quality of reproduction when used with a high quality loud speaker. Very complete information on the testing of all parts of the circuit as well as the complete receiver are given. The directions for operating the set are also very complete. Directions are included for slightly altering the wiring of the receiver to accommodate dry cell tubes, instead of the standard types which require storage batteries. The design may be altered for the use of a loop instead of an open antenna in accordance with the instructions given. Prie@o. a sw we ee ee ee e WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY AND TELEPHONY SIMPLY EXPLAINED. LOO By Aurrep P. Morean. This is a complete and _compreher ve treati and a close study of its pages will of the wireless transmission of messages. The enable one tio master all the det: author filled a long-felt want and has succeeded in furnishing a lucid, comprehensively explanation in simple language of the theory and practice of wireless telegraphy and. 1.00 . . . . . . . telephony. 154 pages. 156 engravings. Price 31 CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS EXPERIMENTAL WIRELESS STATIONS. By P. E. Eputman. The theory, design, construction and operation is fully treated including Wireless Telephony, Vacuum Tube, and quenched spark systems. The new enlarged edition is just issued and is strictly up to date, correct and complete. This book tells how to make apparatus to not only hear all telephoned and telegraphed radio messages, but also how to make simple equipment that works for transmission over reasonably long distances. Then there is a host of new information included. The first and only book to give you all the recent important radio improvements, some of which have never before been published. This volume anticipates every need of the reader who wants the gist of the art, its principles, simplified calculations, apparatus dimensions, and understandable directions for efficient operation. Vacuum tube circuits; amplifiers; receivers; tables of wave-lengths, long-distance sets; loop, coil, and underground capacity, inductance; such are a few of the sub- jects presented in detail that satisfies. It is independent and one of the few that describe ail modern systems. Endorsed by foremost instructors for its clear accuracy, preferred by leading amateurs for its dependable designs. The new experimental Wireless Stations is sure to be most satisfactory for your purposes. HONS: “Price HENLEY’S 222 6 ae as ese) 27 chapters, RADIO CIRCUIT DESIGNS. C. C. Minis and Eimer H. Lewis. 392 pages. ee 167 illustra- ee kOO, By Joun E. Anperson, AnTHuUR An entirely new and thoroughly practical book on radio circuit designs which will meet the needs of every radio enthusiast, whether novice or expert, amateur or professional. It is replete with correct and trustworthy radio information from which any one can successfully build and operate any of the circuits given. Contains the largest collection of radio circuits and hook ups ever published and includes all the standard types and latest developmerts. This new book treats the subject in an entirely different and novel way, as it is the only book that illustrates the complete electrical design of the circuits, showing the electrical values of inductances, capacities and resistances, with the name of each element on the diagram of the circuit. The book explains in simple words the principles of operation of every circuit described and the functions of all of the component pieces of apparatus—but carefully avoids needless theory. It is so simple that the novice will understand it; so thorough that he can build successfully any circuit it contains without any other assistance; so suggestive of new circuit arrangements that the most insatiable experimenter will find it an inexhaustible source of circuits; so comprehensive that the most advanced amateur will find inspiration in its pages; so complete and conveniently arranged that the expert radio engineer will find it an invaluable and handy reference volume; so thoroughly indexed that the reader can find at once just the circuit information heis seeking. Itis a veritable fountain of authoritative radioinformation. It brings to the side of every experimenter the results of research in the largest industrial, university, and government radio laboratories, and the expert knowledge of the g] reatest radio engineers. It is the radio experimenter’s indispensable assistant— his inseparable laboratory companion. In addition it contains a, list of all symbols and a glossary of all technical terms used in the book; a revised and up-to-date list of all the important broadcasting stations in the United States and Canada, together with their operating wave lengths or frequencies. 271 pages, 284 diagrams. Price . . . 2. «. 2 « $1.00 HENLEY’S WORKABLE RADIO RECEIVERS. By a Staff of Radio Engineers—Joun E. AnprERson, ArTHUR C. C. Mitts and Eimer H. Lewis. An authoritative book on practical receiving sets of modern design with complete explicit directions for building them. This new book contains complete descriptions of many types of receivers, which, by long experience have proved to be the most satisfactory from the viewpoints of selectivity, sensitivity, convenience and economy of operation, dependability, and quality of reproduction. It gives in greatest detail circuit and wiring diagrams, panel and baseboard layouts and drilling templates, so that any amateur may build a successful receiver from the directions given. It also includes a discussion on the principles underlying each circuit, and shows clearly how to test and calibrate the receivers. 196 pages with 116 specially made engravings. sic! foi” 59s. se) oie = cig ee eee teeemE LOO) ome wu 4 Oo Y — | 3 # ha gz6i 4ysiuhdoo ‘. va = zw a u b n a, So” a2l) z§ N | “FULL SIZE FAAMES— AFTER ‘ BODY FORE Bopy. Nore fe Frames oot spown iD proper locahiog with respcef \ te heighh from keel or jase Line. Fig~ 143. (PLATE-3) o®BxwAO BY dwn 1S i i} i -—1¢— ~ =. ae a A ~ TINOT3ZIS JWaSNOILDIS-— il Ml awiys 4“Fi|7-S”a ae WOSNHUl <9?SP"/|-Z“TM\rawes mel] i 7 |hela |S [7-2@/fiawed — “i ees 7 oi z / ] Vintage Literature Reproductions Preserving Histhry One Page At a Time Copyright Notice: Entire contents of this CD/DVD are copyright 2010 Vintage Literature Reproductions. Reproduction or distribution of this disk, either free or for a fee is strictly prohibited. You are free to copy and use individual images in your own projects - newsletters, magazines, brochures or school projects. For more wortierful Vintage Literature Reproductions ® please visit us at: http://www. Vintage Litera