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Viodel APRIL 1967 HOBBY MAGAZINE ‘tM MODEL BOATS Fittings for Model Yachts Following the planking of a hull in last Novem- ber’s issue, C. W. Sykes describes his methods of constructing racing fittings. Part One Wher considering the various fittings which are mounted on any boat many people suggest that these should be kept as simple as possible. This makes good sense for the simpler they are the easier they can be repaired at the pond side when the need arises. You may, therefore, think that some of the following are a little elaborate but as 1 am more of a model engineer than a yachtsman pleasure is obtained a great deal of my in thinking out and making these models and fittings. Simple workshop facilities will be needed such as a lathe and drilling machine and it is amazing what one can do by using a little ingenuity. If, however, this is not possible and you are sufficiently interested, there are many Colleges of Further Education up and down the country where first class workshop facilities are available and where help will be given to those needing advice on the correct use cf machine tools. It is always desirable to keep machining and filing down to a minimum and by going along to your local brass stockists many different sections of material can be obtained as can be seen from the accompanying photographs. The first photograph shows a radial forestay fitting for the jib boom and the main function of this is to provide an effective kicking strap. The two sides of the triangular support are made from #z in. brass tube, the bottom is xs in. dia. brass bar and this is located in the slide by 7 B.A. screws. The angle of the fitting can be adjusted simply by screwing in or out the forward leg of the tripod. With this type of fitting it is desirable to have the foot of the sail the same length for the first, second, and third suits and as the height of the jib comes down the mast it is simply necessary to alter the angle of the fitting. If however, a high aspect sail is used the fitting will have to be moved further back in the slide and a shorter jib boom fitted. At all times it is necessary to ensure that the angle swivels in the same line or plane as the leading edge of the jib as otherwise the kicking strap will be tighter in one position than another. You will see that the jib forestay is attached to the top of the piece of rod on which the jib and kicking of the fitting is correct and that the kicking strap tightstrap swivels and this can therefore be really ened up without affecting the ease with which the boom swivels. : The tripod arrangement 1S mounted on a support angle built up from 4 in. x } in. x ye in.to brass allow for with holes drilled down each side held toforward and backward movement. Thisin. isbrass and gether by three strips of + in, x zs 148 APRIL the central support is 4 in. x 4 in. brass drilled and body is xe in. dia. drilled and tapped + in, Whit. and suitably marked on the outside, into the end of which a length of 7s in. brass wire is silver soldered and this forms the bottom half of the kicking strap. A piece of $ in. Whit. screwed rod is then drilled down the centre zs in. dia. and an outer casing with a vs in, dia. hole down the centre is silver soldered tapped 8 B.A. throughout its length at 4 in. centres. At the front end a screw eye has been fitted for the mast forestay. The whole assembly is, of course, silver soldered at all joints and this is not a very difficult operation. The Easy-flo silver solder I use is obtained in wire form #s in. in dia. and short lengths are cut off and placed alongside the pieces of metal to on the outside at the top end so that as it is screwed in it is possible to see its position at all times. Through the 7s in. dia. hole a piece of stainless steel wire passes (bicycle spokes) and this forms the top half of the kicking strap. If the correct spokes are be joined. Suitable flux is then applied, either sprinkled dry the joint or applied in paste form after having mixed with water, and the whole lot heated up the solder runs. If you want to join a piece of 1967 over been until tube obtained they open out to about #% in. dia. at the Pictures on this page show the mast and boom fittings of both the Duck (left) and Golden Archer (below). The ‘flow control’’ by means of a knurled wheel at the boom end can be clearly seen on Archer’s jib, and on these and the other photos the two circular bowsies for running and beating lines can be seen. Note adjustable stops on jib horse below. Three photographs opposite Ww variations of the same basic radial forestay fitting, the top two being those that tie up particularly to the text. The first picture is the Marblehead Golden Archer, the hull construction of which was described in our November issue. Centre is another Marblehead, to the Vega design, Green Top, which has been sailed to good effect many times in the last season or so. Bottom is a modified 36R Tucker Duck, complete with saucy bowsprit with an adaptation of the fitting. radial to a piece of bar as in the case of the bottom of the tripod, a small ferrule of silver solder is made by using round nose pliers, placed in position and then heated up. Before starting it is necessary to ensure that all mating surfaces are perfectly clean. Today there are many different types of blow torches which can be used for silver soldering but for many years I used a home-made Bunsen burner which was very successful. From the photograph the kicking strap can clearly be seen and as the tension of this varies when beating and running it is desirable to have some form of calibration so that settings can be easily repeated. This has been done by using a device which is very similar to a barrel and scale on a micrometer. The bottom end and if they are cut off at the correct place the barre] is free to rotate without the spoke being pulled through. A similar kicking strap is also fitted to the main boom. The mast and booms are all made from duralumin tube, the mast + in. dia., the jib boom ? in. dia., and the main boom 7g in, dia. In the end of the booms a slot zs in. wide and 2 in. Jong has been cut and a piece of metal on which the sail hook is attached is mounted on a screwed piece of rod 5 B.A. or ¢ in. Whit., and by turning a knurled wheel at the end of each boom the correct amount of flow can be put in each sail. Inside the aluminium tube a small ferrule is placed just forward Continued on page 160 149 MOD/sL BOATS Readers Write .. . courage our sport but we need a modern approach on design, rules and last but not least information. Where would we be to-day, whatever A neat little wallet of double-ended chrome vanadium spanners in 0-8 B.A. sizes is awarded to the writer of each letter published. These columns are open to all with an interesting viewpoint to express, a point to be made, or a helpful experience to describe etc.; the Editor is not necessarily in agreement with opinions given. QUIET CORRECTION Dear Sir, If Mr. Boothroyd will allow me | would like to qualify his letter giving minimum silencer dimensions allowed under the new M.P.B.A. ruling. It is intended that this rule shall apply to tethered hydroplanes only, although the wording in the Rule Book gives the impression that the rule should apply to all craft. Should modellers accept these silencer dimensions for Radio Control and Straight Running boats as well as tethered hydroplanes, then the volume of noise at a Regatta will rise to such an extent that complaints from local resi- dents and the public are bound to follow and this in turn could bring about the loss of the club sailing waters. The M.P.B.A. hopes that club officials will ensure that all R/C and S/R craft are silenced to a level well below that provided by the maximum dimensioned silencer quoted in the revised rule. A technical sub committee of the M.P.B.A. is now working on the problem of noise levels and the design of asimple meter that can be constructed by the average club member. When their work is completed it is hoped that maximum noise levels for all classes of model boat can be laid down. Hon. Gen. Sec. M.P.B.A. G. Colbeck. POINTS AND POINTING Dear Sir, No keen model yachting enthusiast could fail to be interested in Roger Stollery’s excellent article on his very fine 10 Rater Warlord, published in your February issue. | think this in particular applies to those who were present at the 1966 ‘National’ when Messrs. Blick and Stollery sprung their bombshell which blasted a hole right through the 10 Rater rules as they stood at the time. To find a satisfactory compromise between L.W.L. and S.A., in an endeavour to ‘get the best out of both worlds’, has always been a major problem for the 10 Rater designer to solve. The fact that Roger Stollery solved this problem, in the opinion of many ‘by means of a trick’, should in no way detract from the fact that, even without the undoubted advantage of the wing mast contraption in light winds, Roger has produced in Warlord a very fine boat indeed. | venture to suggest that it will be a very Jong time before another boat incorporating so many original ideas is produced to perform so outstandingly in her first ‘National’. Full marks Roger! However, having said my piece in congratulation, | cannot refrain from taking this ingenious designer up on one or two points. Roger states in his article and | quote ‘‘Not only did it point higher but it footed faster than any other boat’. | am sure many will agree with me when | say that, as regards to pointing, whether by accident or design, this was not so. In fact the truth is that Warlord was consistently outpointed to weather yet she won every board, sometimes because of and in other cases possibly in spite of it and this was achieved by sheer speed alone. She was so fast through the water, particularly when it was rough, slicing through as Roger describes it, that she could afford to be slightly off wind and still win. On cne or two occasions, particularly when she got out of step with her opponent on tacks and the wind change favoured her opponent, she nearly came unstuck. This was particularly noticeable during the last board (I think) when she had to make four and a bit tacks against her opponent’s three and a bit and only just got over the line in time. Then again from weather mark against Chris Dicks (whose trim can rarely be faulted), Warlord was three or four lengths ahead at the first turn, but Midnight pointing higher turned at the same spot, weathered Warlord on the second leg but just could not catch her, although | believe there was not muchin it at the finish. Warlord’s one real weakness appeared to be her tendency to broach on the run in a high wind, which she did on anumber of occasions on the Saturday (a horrible day). In the article no mention is made of the Stollery vane gear which, | believe, uses a1 to 1 ratio. This may or may not have been the cause of the apparent lack of control downwind in spite of the numerous shapes and sizes of spinnakers tried. The hull, with its long rather shallow mid sections and overall length, should make her quite fast on the run. It might be interesting to see her perform downwind in heavy weather using a vane gear with, say, two or even 23 to one ratio. In conclusion, let there be no misunderstanding. | have not said that Warlord cannot point as high as the next boat and still foot faster. What I have said is that in the 1966 ‘National’ Warlord was persistently outpointed by good boats and yet she beat them all. The question now is will she repeat her success at Gosport this year? Well sailed, and even with a 14 inch mast, she will still be a very hard nut to crack, especially if it should blow up a bit. London, S.W.4. R. G. Bonthrone. MODERNISATION Dear Sir, Model Yachting—with a purpose | would like to reply to Mr. Roberts letter published in your March issue. | agree that Model Maker & Model Boats gives little encouragement or information to the model yachtsman, this is not entirely the fault of the Editor, the Model Yachting Association creates no image, and has poor public relations with the press. | support any effort to enlighten and en- 152 field of activities industrial, aviation etc., without new ideas in design. This is 1967 not 1934—use of leisure is becoming a major problem—let us not sit on the plat- form reflecting on past glories. As Commodore of Guildford and District Model Yacht Club, | am proud that ‘‘Warlord”’ represents this club, she looks good, her record with or without ‘revolving’ mast is proven. “Bulb Keel” or ‘‘Sharpies‘‘, ‘‘Vane”’ or “Braine’’ let them all come forth and race (within the rules) against each other; we enjoy our model yachting; we encourage new ideas, design, and with it a fresh approach. This is the strength of our club. Commodore, Guildford D.M.Y.C. Yours faithfully G. C. V. Jones. UM… Dear Sir, Rule 9 of the ‘Yachting Monthly’ Cup Rules states that ‘‘The yacht must be designed… by a citizen of the country it represents…’’ Why, then, was Bingo Cat, designed by Dick Priest, an English citizen, allowed to compete on behalf of Belgium in the 1966 Cup race? Rule 3 (d) of the M.Y.A. Constitution may be construed to read: ‘‘No-one may enter M.Y.A. races, however interested he may be in the sport, unless he is prepare to join an affiliated club’. Why is this, as it seems very hard on the “‘lone wolf’’, or the man who has no such club in his area, but is prepared to become an individual member of the M.Y.A.? Worthing, Sussex. P. Jd. L. de Grouchy. RORC FOR RC? Dear Sir, Only with hesitation have | set the following suggestions into the open by writing to you, the reason of course being that | am clearly aware of my lack of knowledge as far as boating is concerned, and possibly my over interest in full scale ocean racing, also the certain omission of an amount of ‘“‘cons’’ and an over assessment of the ‘‘pros”’. My suggestion is why not organize model yacht races in a class to the Royal Ocean Racing Club’s handicap rule, and especially to a maximum rating as is done nowadays in the One Ton and Half Ton Cups. This would no doubt be a very happy solution for the R/C classes as then a large amount of factors such as receiver and mechanism weight can be calculated into the rating. The “pros” in general would be: More up to date rule as compared to A Class, 10 Rater and Marblehead. Con- struction can now also be included, GRP versus Bread and Butter. The RORC rule in the last 10 years has proved to be very good and it seems that comparison with results in modelling would certainly boost the overall knowledge of ocean racing. As is clear, several model yacht designers have been called in to advise APRIL FOR JUNIOR AND FOR MASTERS P.V.L. 1967 MODELLERS‘ HANDICRAFT IN SCHOOLS, DARBYSHIRE OFFERS THIS SIMPLE SAILING MODEL SQELYCAT CATAMARAN THs simple model catamaran utilises for its basic edge of the hindmost cross-member. The two discs are slightly flattened for about 4 in. of their perimeter and are glued on this flat just inside the affixed stripwood. Make sure they are centred up with the two fore and aft side spars. The “SqEzy” containers are now prepared for gluing. First remove the red caps, which pull off quite easily, The white spout now revealed has two seams opposite each other. Cut two slots, using these seams as guides, exactly the thickness of a piece of hardboard. The two bow-pieces are now cut out of hardboard to the shape shown and glued into the slots in the containers and the whole glued to discs and under the side decks. Pieces of cork or balsa wood are carved to plug up the holes on either side of the hardboard at the openings of the two containers. A small block of scrapwood 2 in. x 1 in. x 1 in, with a { in. hole to hold the mast is glued centrally on deck in the middle of the second transverse strut from the bows. A 3 in. length of 4 in. x + in. stripwood is glued and pinned in position as a short bowsprit, with a small brass screweye at its forward end. A small buoyancy tank is required to prevent nose-diving lin strong winds. On the prototype a small] plastic liner costing 1/6d. in Woolworths was used. It is approximately 64 in. long. The funnels and superstructure were carefully sawn off and it was glued in position under the forward end of the centre deck with Araldite, Semi-circular pieces of lead screwed and glued to the bottom halves of the transom discs also help to achieve stability, This _ hull two empty detergent containers. It was designed round two economy (large size) “SqEzy” containers. However it could be slightly altered so as to use any other suitable containers available to the builder. The idea behind this design was to produce a handwork project suitable for easy construc- tion in Primary schools, The most difficult part of any model boat for boys to make is of course the hull. By using empty containers, this difficulty is entirely eliminated. Furthermore, all materials necessary to complete the job should than 2/6d. or so. not come to more Hull Construction Cut two 15 in. lengths of stripwood 1 in. x + in. Shape to bow-form at one end of each. Centre-section piece or keel-bearer is made from a piece of orangebox approximately 4 in. thick, 15 in. long x 2 in. wide and is also shaped to bow-form at one end. Glued across the top of these three at right angles are four 9 in. lengths of 1 in. x 4 in, stripwood, spaced out as per plan (Evo-Stik glue). The keel is fret-sawed out of hardboard to the shape shown. Two lengths of } in. x $+ in. wood are glued along both sides of the top edge, and the whole is glued in position under the centre-section, great care being taken to get true alignment fore and aft. A small piece of lead approximately 2} in. — 4+ in. is folded in a vice centrally along its longer side and glued and clamped into a small slot on the bottom of the hardboard keel. Place a “SqEzy” container upright on a suitable completes the basic hull, thoroughly and laid aside. piece of 4 in, thick wood. I used scraps of marine plywood. Trace round the base of the container twice and with a fretsaw cut out two discs. Glue a 9 in. length of } in. x 4 in. stripwood under the aft The Rudder which can be ” painted A very simple sheet-to-tiller self-correcting steering device can now be constructed as follows: Blade is 159 MODEL BOATS Mast, Boom and Rigging The mast is made from an 18 in. length of } in. dowelling. The top is tapered with a Surform file and glass-paper. Three ye in. holes are drilled through the mast, one ¢ in. from the top, a second at right-angles to the first 34 in. from the top, and the third hole parallel to the first 43 in. from the top. A “O” gauge brass screw-eye is screwed into the mast 1} in. up from its base and parallel to the second hole mentioned above. The boom is a 94 iin, length of } in. dowel. An opened “O” gauge brass screw-eye is screwed and glued into one end (use 3z in. pilot hole). This is later interlocked with that at the base of the mast and closed with pliers to form the gooseneck. Four parallel holes to enable the mainsail to be laced in position are now drilled in the positions shown on the plan. Two more screw-eyes are fitted cut to shape from hardboard and is streamlined with a sharp knife and sand-paper. A 54 in. length of 4 in. dowelling is put upright in the vice and slotted down the middle to accommodate the blade, using an Abrafile in a frame. The leading edge of the blade is filed slightly on each side, until it is a nice snug fit in this slot and then glued in place. _ The top of the rudder post is squared off to fit into a square slot cut midway along a 4 in. length of 4 in. dowel which forms tiller and counter-tiller. Do not glue it in place until you have slipped a suitable sized brass screw-eye over the end of the rudder post. The screw-eye should be just large enough for the dowel to revolve inside it smoothly, Screw the rudder assembly into the centre of the 4 in. x 4 in. cross- member with a little Durofix around it for strength. The trailing edge of the keel should be exactly under this screw-eye. Drill 7s in. hole in the trailing edge of the keel in the position shown on the plan and twist a small length of brass or galvanised wire into it to form a small eye immediately under the larger screw-eye already entered. Finally secure the rudder by screwing a small brass screw through this loop and into the bottom of the rudder post. Note the screw-eye and hook for elastic band on the tiller piece. YACHT FITTINGS (continued on page 149) of the slot and this supports the front end of the screwed rod. Also a small hole is drilled on the underside to act as a drain hole. When attaching brass fittings on to aluminium these should always be plated, such as cadmium or chromium or even tinned, as this helps in preventing electrolytic corrosion taking place. On both booms separate running and beating lines are provided, and simply by unhooking the hooks on the horses the boat is ready for a run, Scales are provided on each boom marked off in 1 in. intervals so that correct settings can easily be repeated and if you are not very good at sign writing small number transfers can be obtained from most Model Shops and stuck in place. The whole boom is then painted with two or three coats of clear varnish. The mast slide is made from 18 gauge brass plate under the boom at the two ends to attach the mainsheet. Mast and boom should now be sanded smooth and given two coats of clear varnish. While the varnish is drying the sails can be made. I always use good quality cotton but polythene storage bags or even 4 oz. Dinghy terylene could equally well be used. Cut to patterns and measure- ments given. Remember that the luff of the jib and the leach of the mainsail should be kept parallel to the selvedge of the material, If cotton is used, the sails should have a narrow hem all round. Using a toothpaste-tube cap of the bendy plastic variety cut three sail rings with a sharp knife or mini-hacksaw. Sew these to the luff of the mainsail where indicated. Make four rigging hooks from galvanised or brass wire using round-nosed pliers. Make four bowsies from derelict boxwood schoo] rulers. Drill 7s in. holes first, then cut out with fretsaw. Use light fishing line for rigging, which is set up as indicated on the plan. The mainsail is sewn to the boom at the four holes and its head is sewn through the top hole on the mast, The jib requires no forestay but merely has a rigging hook sewn to the tack and its head sewn to the second hole down from the top of the mast. Positions of deck screw-eyes, rigging hooks, bowsies etc. are all clearly shown on the plan. “SqEzycat” performs well, even in quite strong winds, but has been known to capsize in a_ squall, the remedy probably being more ballast. Exper!mental clipping of more lead onto the keel will enable you to arrive at the correct amount. approx. 3 in. long x 1} in. wide. This is bent round a piece of plate slightly thicker than the part which is free to slide, so that when it is removed it is not unduly tight. Before the mast slide is fitted in place it is my ‘practise to stick some strips of thin plastic foam on the underside (draught excluder material) and this helps to prevent water getting into the hull under the slide. The mast step, jib and main horse, and chain plates are conventional. The latter can be made from brass curtain rail but I find this rather weak and prefer to build them up from zs in, thick plate. Attached to the chain plates there are } in. square guides for the beating shrouds, the ends of which are fixed to a sliding carriage incorporating quick release features. There is, of course, a drawing which can be obtained from the Model Maker Plans Service, No. MM 503, showing how all these fittings can be made and to the beginner this will be most useful. 160 URING the winter of 63-64 I became interested in the possibilities of building a small model ketch, able to operate under power or sail. Ketches are fairly common on the Firth of Clyde, but I had never seen one in model form, andI felt it would be an interesting model to build. I could not find any plans and decided to attempt the design myself. After a careful search through back numbers of Model Maker, for information on hull design etc., I made a start on the design. My first ketch Katrina was 20” o/a lengthx44” beam, powered by an Orbit 305 motor supplied from a 3 volt cycle lamp battery. The hull was constructed with =3” ply frames and keel, and planked with 4” balsa. Deck was cut out from +-” ply and the cabin, wheelhouse etc. from +” ply on balsa frame. The entire superstructure is built in one section, which is removable, and the masts are stepped in this section. This permits easy access to battery and motor. The Orbit 305 drives a #” blade propeller through a 4” shaft, and has a 4-1 reduction pulley. Ballast is provided for by the weight of the battery, (approximately 41b.) and 4lb. lead in the keel. Tahe mainmast is 21” from deck level and the mizzen 15”. Sils were made from very fine terylene. SHONA =e About this time my youngest son started clamouring for a boat of his won, so I decided to redesign Katrina. After studying my Model Maker again, I formed the opinion that there were two faults in Katrina’s design. These were that the centre of lateral resistance was too far forward and that the area of the keel was too small. Accordingly, I drew up a new design for a 24” o/a length x 54 beam ketch. L Katrina’s first trials were a disappointment. She sat on the water perfectly but under sail she continually headed into the wind and stood shivering. About this time an article on a gaff-rigged ketch Mimsy appeared in Model Maker. Here the builder described some of the difficulties of steering his ketch and his remedies for the faults. One of his ideas was an outrigger on the rudder, a type of reversed tiller, to which the mizzen sheet was attached. This was done, and the pressure of the mizzen sheet bearing on the rudder corrected Katrina’s course. Katrina could now sail a straight course, and my son was delighted with her. I had the feeling however that the ketch should have sailed on a true course without the rudder control. The same basic shape was used, but slightly enlarged. The main differences were that she had a full keel, and was powered by an Orbit 505. The increased size necessitated greater ballast in the keel and she now carried 14 Ibs. of lead under the centre of buoyancy. The new ketch Rhona was built in about 3 months and I immediately started on her sister ship Shona. Shona differed slightly from Rhona in her superstructure, and had a little more sheer to her deck line. Both models were fitted with a simplified Braine quadrant and an outrigger to the rudder stock. The main sheet is taken to the Braine quadrant through a guide eye on the main horse. On their maiden trip both models sailed a straight course with their rudders locked central, and so far a number of courses from a beat to a close reach have been sailed. Both models look most realistic under sail and the only modification has been a slight reduction in the sail area. f I have given most of the vital statistics in the course of my comments, the few remaining are:—Total weight loaded 32 Ibs; mainmast 26” from deck; mizzen 19” from deck; jib 15” 5’; mainsail 20” x8”; mizzen 15” x5’; propeller 1” 3 blade; draught 32’; freeboard minimum 2”. Both are painted white above the waterline, below w/l Shona red, Rhona turquoise. Sails on Shona are of red terylene and on Rhona white. 161 A simple Ketch model by J. H. Macphee MODEL BOATS STARLET Boating for Beginners this covers casting for the ballast lead weights; applies to other month similar castings. BEFORE finish-coating the hull, it is best to secure the ballast half-bulbs in place, and many builders will no doubt wish to cast their own. Lead is a fairly easy metal to handle, since it is relatively soft and has a low melting point; it is also quite easy to obtain, To cast one’s own leads, it is necessary to make a pattern, and balsa is quite adequate for this purpose. The pattern on the drawing makes use of two scraps of } in. sheet, which is convenient as anyone who wishes to use a spare bit of deal, etc., will find that nominally } in. timber actually measures 3 in. when sold planed. Only one pattern need be made, since the half-bulbs are symmetrical. First cut one piece to the full outkne drawn, then trace off the smaller piece; cut this, and also use the tracing to mark its position on the larger piece, Glue together, and when dry carve to shape. Three sections are given as an indication, but if the bulb is carved to a pleasing and symmetrical shape it will automatically come very close to these sections, The purity of lead varies to quite an extent, and as we shall see, some adjustment to the finished weight is possible. A true pattern needs to be finished carefully and painted or polished, but for our purposes, provided the wood is sanded smooth, it is enough to soak the surface thoroughly with wax polish; we have only one mould to make. The next requirement is a simple box slightly it in until the back face is flush with the top of the plaster, Allow to set—only a few minutes —then remove the pattern. A screw in the back of the pattern helps to lift it out, and no difficulty should be experienced, Scatter the plaster on the water, if the front was thoroughly of a large nature; small ones are not serious since we can remove them from the cast bulb when cleaning up. It is absolutely essential that the plaster mould now be dried out really thoroughly. The slightest trace of moisture can result in an explosion of steam when the hot lead hits the plaster, and this steam will spatter molten lead over a wide area, including the caster’s face. So take care—leave the mould on a hot radiator for several days or, best, bake it in the oven for half an hour or so. The cheapest (honest!) way of obtaining lead is larger in inside dimensions than the pattern—say 8 in. xX 3 in. 1 in. inside. Any scrap dry timber is suitable and the box need only be quite rough provided it is firmly assembled. The mould will be formed inside this, so we now need a couple of pounds of plastet of paris, which can be bought at a chemist’s, Use an old tin or basin and pour in, say, half a pint of water. especially waxed. Check the mould face for any imperfect ions to pay a call on your local scrapyard who will sell you odd bits to the weight required at the normal price. A plumber or demolition firm can also help. If the worst comes to the worst, sheet lead or plumbers’ lead wool can be bought at a builders’ merchants’, An old iron saucepan is the best cheap crucible, and jumble sales often yield such utensils for, literally, pence. Aluminium Saucepans can be used provided heating is not too fierce, and we have stirring continuously, until a pea soup consistency is reached, then pour into the box. Press the pattern, curved face down, into the top of the wet plaster, wiggling seen lead melted in a large tin can, though it must have rolled and not soldered seams, The advantage of a saucepan is that it has a handle which is easy to cope with provided the hands are protected with gloves or rags. Chop up about 3 Ibs. of lead into small chunks— the smaller they are the faster the melt. Pop them in the saucepan and apply the heat. A domestic gas ring will supply enough heat, or the saucepan can be stood in the top of a domestic boiler suitably opened up draught wise. An open fire will do, but hot lead in the carpet—or even on the kitchen tiles—tends to be frowned on, so if indoors take protective measures (and wait till the Jady’s out shopping!) Outdoors, sheltered, two normal painters’ blowlamp s will provide enough heat to melt this quantity. 170 As the lead melts a scum will form on the surlace and this should be skimmed away with an old spoon (jumble sale again) or held back during pouring. The scum is composed of odd impurities and dirt on the lead; traces of grease or paint will cause smoke and smell, both unlikely to impress the distaff side SMALL CRAFT (continued from page 163) 1. Thornycroft Ltd. of Hampton Building Yard. A model setting for the vessel could be anywhere on the tideway or in open waters of the Thames Estuary. She is based from Tilbury. Colour Scheme. Hull very dark blue with red boot- topping waterline region. White superstructure with varnished wood doors. Scrubbed wood planked decks. White funnel with the “Flying Angel” houseflag as a crest, the angel being in white on blue background. favourably. When completely melted, pour, from as close as possible, into the mould. The lead will be hot enough, if it will pour, to spread throughout the mould without flow marks caused by part solidifying before the remainder reaches it. Pour until the mould is overfull; the lead will make a fairly pronounced meniscus (see small sketch) before flooding on to the flat surface of the plaster, As it cools it will probably shrink a little, giving a slight hollow at the deepest Masts are white. Fittings black. Note: For model making purposes the length. over- all of John Ashley is 75 ft. LAUNCH “PRIDE OF SHEPPEY” Also include for “file’ purposes is the Thames estuary attendance launch Pride of Sheppey. Owned by the Webster Company, she can ‘be featured around the mouth of the Medway, the Thames Estuary or in part. Leave it to cool completely, which takes a fair time, and remove from the mould. Check that no major faults have developed in the mould, then repeat the Thames river scenes from 1948 until 1966 when she was withdrawn. Her business included transport of operation for the second half. personnel, stores or equipment for marine repairs. Colours: Cream hull with red boot-topping. White wheelhouse and cabin. Brown top rubbing strake Now weigh the casting; a weight of 5 lbs. for the pair is the aim and they should be fractionally over this. The surplus can be planed off the flat rear, using an ordinary iron jack plane with turpentine for a lubricant. A Surform, or rasp, will do the job without and interior. Black fittings. Note: For model making If by any mischance the weight is less than required —over-enthusiasm on carving the pattern, adulterated lead, etc.—the simple cure is to buy a few square inches of new lead sheet and to cut out the full profile of the bulb, twice. These flats sheets can then be introduced between the bulb halves and the fin; they will be firmly held by the screws, plus a the overall “JOHN ASHLEY” PLAN KEY (a) Television aerial. (b) deck container. (c) boat. (d) superstructure. (e) wheelhouse. (f) funnel. (g) companionway. (h) hand windlass. (i) skylight. “PRIDE OF SHEPPEY” PLAN KEY (j) Lowering mast and lights, (k) wheelhouse. (1) bitts. (m) rudder. (n) open well. (0) cabin. (p) seating. (Continued on page 165) Enterprise purposes length of Pride of Sheppey is 36 ft. lubrication. PROUDLY PRESENT THE NEW MARK II LYO MARINE ENGINES ELJO 15 cc. TCP Mk Il 2-STROKE PETROL Complete Specification on request NOW £21 (plus 92/10 PT in GB only) ELJO 15 cc. GLOW ) (not illustrated Leaflet on request NOW £18.15.0 (plus 82/6 PT in GB only) ELJO 15 cc. OHV Mk II 4-STROKE PETROL Complete specification on request NOW £30 (plus 126/0 PT in GB only) OVERSEAS AGENCIES CAN BE ARRANGED IN MOST COUNTRIES 18” Heavy Duty Shaft with 16” Tube ACCESSORIES INCLUDE: 14” ‘Heavy Duty Shaft with 12” Tube 16” Heavy \Duty Shaft with 14” Tube Enterprise WAS. nies 18/4 24/5 27/5 | 54, Exhaust Bends for 2-Stroke (per pair) Silencer and Tail Pipe Automatic Clutch 122/0 Heavy Duty Ball and Socket Coupling 15/6 42/9 Water Pump 91/6 18/4 SHUDEHILL, MANCHESTER 4
