The Model Yacht: Volume 15, Number 3 – Spring/Summer 2012

Reprinted From LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, DC NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME 15, NUMBER THREE Spring/Summer 2012 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME FIFTEEN, NUMBER THREE Spring/Summer 2012 Editor’s Welcome For this, the third issue of our fifteenth volume, we are reprinting a significant article from the third issue of our first volume: the construction article for Starlet, the boat that prompted the establishment of the Vintage 36 inch class, whose updated rules are also included in this issue, along with Mark Steele’s Windling World and the Notice of Race for the next Vintage Nationals this July 19-22. John Snow has been busy planning this event and getting ready for the trip to the Philippines to kick off his charity effort, which is where he is now. I just didn’t have the heart to pester him for a column, but he’ll be back next issue. Speaking of which, the photo below is that a of Sonder boat, one of my favorite classes of all time. Next issue will have a history of the Sonders and a full description of the design and build of a Sonderinspired V36 that I will be sailing at the National Regatta. See you there! Earl Boebert I am reminded of one of my favourite sayings of Mark Twain which goes like this: “Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.” Right on brother Mark! Until then let us enjoy continuing being big boys at heart with our regular sailing of model yachts ! I am in touch with Michel Fedisch, a member of a model boat forum www.boote-forum.de who is one of a group that build and sail model sailboats on the German North Sea coast. Another member, Lothar Mentz of Bremen so lost his heart to Skerry cruisers that he has built three 1.5 scale models of them to different lengths overall. The Sonja shown here gives you an idea of what a pretty boat the Skerry Cruiser is. Derek Nicholson of the New Zealand Ancient Mariners group, though he had a stroke a few short years back is still as prolific as ever in his model shipbuilding. This is his very latest, an RC sailing model of the 65’ Long Island Sound schooner Fame designed by Crowninshield and now owned by ace sailor Dennis Conner. Inset is Derek’s cheap labour, Changra Bhama from the island of Ghobadi Bhab When what I call `The famous five’ model schooner exponents assembled for a day of racing in Maryland last year on the waters of what some refer to as Surgent’s Cove, as it turned out, it was Al Suydam of Maryland who took eventual top honours. Rob Dutton seen with his sharpie was one of the five photographed by Marla Surgent. Vic (Smeed) has slipped anchor but in Auckland, New Zealand his Starlets still form the backbone of the Ancient Mariners windling fleet by virtue of numbers. Two of the boats are seen in the photograph, Roy Lake’s Pud nearest the camera and the writer’s old (but still going strong) gaffer Bells and Whistles having a private shakedown. With the help of my friend Hans Staal of the Netherlands, here is a great photograph of an Arnemuidense Hoogaars model built by Harold Kossack of Germany with a full length of 1.50m and weighing 25 kilos. I’ve been wondering what draws us to model sailboats and it is because the wind is free and they haven’t found a way of taxing our usage ! Happy days and keep sane in this crazy world, enjoy at least one weekly sail while the air is still free ! Mark Steele Correction There is an error in the article “Class Rules and Why We Have Them,” published in the Winter 2011-2012 edition of The Model Yacht, page 26, paragraph five. The sentence that begins “Yet, at the 2010 USVMYG national regatta….” through to the end of that paragraph includes an error. It states that the Vintage 36/600 referred to, which is the Comet V36, did not meet the minimum weight requirement of the V36 class rules published in the Fall 2006 issue of The Model Yacht, and implied that the boat was therefore not class legal. The Comet was in fact V36 class legal. The V36 class coordinator had communicated with the builder of the Comet (before the Comet had been created) that an August, 2007 revision of the the V36 class rules eliminated the minimum weight requirement. As this rules revision had not yet been communicated to V36/600 class owners or to the USVMYG membership, I was unaware that the V36 minimum weight rule had been eliminated. I regret any harm caused by this error. Harry Mote I should add that as editor, I should have caught this. Haste makes waste. Earl Boebert U. S. Vintage Model Yacht Group Vintage 36 Class Rules Overall Categories Traditional Class – This class is the traditional keel sloop class that is based on full keel model yacht designs and design concepts prior to 1945. (Examples of these boats are: A. J. Fisher Chico II, Harold Peterson Spring Lake V36 Double-Enders and Daniels and Tucker Star Sharpie Junior) This class must follow all rules that follow. High Flyer Class –This class includes model boats based on keel conversions of full-scale centerboard boat designs and design concepts prior to 1945. (Examples of these boats are Snipe class, Comet class and Lightning class boats) This class must follow all rules that follow, except that the minimum weight for this class is 5 pounds. Design Formula A sloop-rigged monohull sailing yacht with an overall length of 36 inches, plus or minus one quarter of an inch. Total sail area shall not exceed 600 square inches. Prohibited: • Sliding or adjustable keels • Centerboards • Leeboards • Bilge-boards • Bowsprits • Overhanging rudders • Outriggers, pontoons, or twin hulls • Movable or shifting ballasts • Prognathous keels (no portion of the leading edge of the keel appendage, including the lead, may project forward of any portion of the leading edge above) • Metal fin keels (metal reinforcements inside wood keels are allowed) • Materials with density greater than lead • Carbon fiber or Kevlar in the hull, rudder, rig, or keel • Fabric or film on decks • Mylar sails • Swing rigs Hull Construction and materials: The hull shall be primarily constructed by the methods and materials of the period as follows: Hulls shall be constructed of wood including plank-on-frame, horizontal lifts, vertical lifts, plywood, or laid-up fiberglass. Molded fiberglass hulls shall be comparable in weight to a woodconstructed hull from the same design plan. Fiberglass covering of wood is permitted as a method of sealing and strengthening the basic wooden hull. Modern adhesives are allowed to produce a stronger hull that is impervious to leaks. Rig Bermuda, Marconi, Jib-headed mainsail, Gaff, Gunter, Wishbone, etc. may be used. Alternate rigs are allowed, provided the total sail area does not exceed 600 square inches. Details of such rigs must be comparable to the original sail plan. The height of the jib stay above the deck shall not exceed 80 percent of the height of the head of the mainsail above the deck. Masts and booms shall be constructed from material of the period, namely wood or aluminum. Hull shape and configuration: there are no restrictions on load waterline, beam, freeboard, or tumblehome. The height of the mast above the deck shall not exceed 65 inches. The greatest diameter of the mast and spars is limited to three quarters of an inch. Maximum draft shall be 11 inches on a yacht fully rigged and ready to sail. Minimum keel chord length shall be 4 inches. Sail area measurement shall be the same as the VM class and cannot exceed 600 square inches in total area. Total ballast must be fixed and shall not be changed during a race or series of races. Minimum model weight as sailed shall be 8 pounds. Bow bumpers are mandatory and are limited to one-half inch overhang. Bumpers shall not be included in the overall measurement. Rudders shall be keel or skeg mounted in keeping with the design methods of this period. It is permitted to enlarge the area of the rudder from its original size in order to achieve acceptable steering with radio control. The skeg must be at least 50% of the rudder area when the rudder is skeg mounted. Balanced spade rudders are not allowed. It is forbidden to change rudders during a race or series of races except in bona fide cases of damage. Sails shall be made of either single panel or multi-panel sail cloth. The body of each sail shall be made of woven cloth, such as cotton, cotton/ synthetic blend, Dacron, or Nylon. No material other than woven sail cloth reinforcing is allowed for tablings or corner reinforcements in the head, tack, or clew of any sail. The roach of the jib shall not exceed 1 inch, the roach of the main shall not exceed 1 ½ inch. The roach curve shall be a continuous curve with the maximum roach measurement near the center of the length of the leech. Rounded foot of loose-footed sails shall not exceed 1 inch. Mainsail battens shall not exceed four in number and four inches in length, and shall divide the mainsail leech into approximately equal parts. Headsail battens shall not exceed three in number and three inches in length, and shall divide the headsail leech into approximately equal parts. Headsticks or headboards shall not exceed three-quarters of an inch across the top of the headsails and mainsails. • Outriggers, pontoons, or twin hulls Radio Control • Prognatheous keels: No portion of the keel appendage, including the lead, may project forward of the leading edge of the keel fin Only the rudder, headsail and mainsail may be adjusted by radio control. Updated 2012 RC Vintage Marblehead Rating Rules These revised Vintage Marblehead Rating Rules of 2007 shall govern Vintage Marblehead activities from date of publication until revised by consensus or recommendation by Vintage Marblehead class owners. The rating rules for the Vintage M divisions are based on the Marblehead 50-800 Class rule adopted by the Model Yacht Racing Association of America (predecessor of the American Model Yachting Association) April 14, 1932 and corrected to June 1, 1939. Subsequent editions were “corrected” to accommodate the evolving Marblehead 50-800 development class. Traditional Vintage Marblehead Design Formula A sloop-rigged monohull model sailing yacht with an overall maximum length of 50 inches, plus or minus one quarter of an inch, and a total sail area not to exceed 800 square inches. Prohibited: • Sliding or adjustable keels • Centerboards • Leeboards • Bilge-boards • Moveable or shifting ballast • Metal fin keels • Materials with a density greater than lead • Carbon fiber or Kevlar in the hull, rudder or rig • Fabric, film, balsa, foam or fiberglass decks • Mylar or other modern plastic-like materials in sails • Swing rigs Hull Hulls shall be constructed by the methods and of the materials of the period as follows: Hulls shall be constructed primarily of wood, using plank on frame or horizontal and vertical lifts. It is permissible to cover a wood hull with a light layer of fiberglass cloth to add strength and prevent leakage. Balsa strip planking covered with fiberglass, in which fiberglass is the primary strength of the hull, is not permitted. Fiberglass hulls laid up in a mold are permitted. Minimum weight of fiberglass hulls is two (2) pounds. Garboards: Garboards shall be hollow, with not less than a one inch radius in the area of the keel fin. This may be checked by use of a disk 2 inches in diameter, fitted to the garboard at a midship section. • Bowsprits Modern adhesives are permitted to produce a strong hull impervious to leaks. • Transom-mounted rudders or rudders that extend aft of the transom Draft shall not exceed 12 inches on a model yacht fully rigged and ready to sail. Minimum keel fin chord length shall be five inches. All ballast must be fixed and shall not be changed during a race or series of races. Model total weight shall be in keeping with that of the period. Bumpers are mandatory and are limited to one half inch overhang. Bumpers are not included in the overall hull measurement. Rudders shall be keel- or skeg-mounted in keeping with the design characteristics of the period. It is permitted to enlarge the area of the rudder from its original size to achieve acceptable steering with radio control. The skeg must be at least 50% of the rudder in area when the rudder is skeg-mounted. Balanced or spade rudders are not allowed. Changing rudders during a race or series of races, except in bona fide cases of damage, is prohibited. Deck Decks shall be constructed of wood: solid, planked or plywood. Film, cloth, foam, balsa or fiberglass decks are not allowed. Rig Bermuda, Marconi, jib-headed mainsail, gaff, gunter, wishbone and other types may be used. Alternate rigs are permitted provided the sail area does not exceed 800 square inches. Details of such rigs must be comparable to the original sail plan. Spars shall be constructed of the materials of the period, primarily wood. Round aluminum tubing is permitted. Modern extruded aluminum spars, designed and produced for modern model sailboats, are not permitted. Maximum diameter of spars is ¾ of an inch. Maximum height of the head of the mainsail above the deck (see sail measurement) is 85 inches. Height of the jib head stay above the deck shall not exceed 80 percent of the height of the head of the mainsail above the deck. Hollow masts and spars, permanently bent masts and spars, and rotating and bipod masts are allowed. Fittings Fittings for deck and rig should be made of brass in keeping with materials and practices of the period. Sails Sails shall be constructed by the methods of the period. Sails may be constructed as either a single or multi-panel sail. The body of each sail shall be made of woven cloth, such as cotton, a cottonsynthetic blend, Dacron or Nylon, such as light spinnaker cloth. No material other than woven sail cloth is allowed for tablings or corner reinforcements in the head, tack or clew of any sail except sail reinforcing tape. Mylar or other modern plastic-like materials are not allowed. Roach of sails shall not exceed two inches. Rounded foot of loose-footed sails shall not exceed one inch. The roach and the rounded foot of sails shall be a continuous, arc-like curve from head to clew and from clew to tack. Mainsail battens shall not exceed four in number and four inches in length and they shall divide the mainsail leach into approximately equal parts. Headsail battens shall not exceed three in number and two inches in length and they shall divide the headsail leach into approximately equal parts. Headsticks or headboards shall not exceed ¾ of an inch across the base for headsails and mainsails. No other wire or stiffener shall be put in the head of the sails Sail measurement Rig and mainsail measurements are taken from the underside of the ¾-inch base of the mainsail headboard. Thus, the height of the mainsail above the deck measurement and the area of the mainsail are taken from this point. Calculation of sail area: mainsail must be less than 800 square inches. All Vintage Marblehead Yachts shall be officially registered with the VM class Coordinator to obtain an official sail number. Sail numbers shall be preferably black, three inches tall, ½ inch in thickness and they shall be affixed to both sides of the mainsail between the second and third battens on a line perpendicular to the leach. The VM insignia consists of a red “V” nested in the top of a black “M”. The letters are 1 ½ inches tall, 1 ¼ inches wide and ¼ inch thick. The “V” is separated from the “M” by 1/ 16th inch. The insignia should be placed in the upper quadrant of the mainsail and only on the starboard side. Radio Control Only the rudder, headsail sheet and mainsail sheet may be adjusted by radio control. High Flyer Vintage Marblehead The rules for the High Flyer division are the same as those for the Traditional division except for the following: High Flyer Marblehead hull design, rig, sails and keel configurations must follow those of the period. The measurement of sails is specified in the 1958 MYRAA Handbook. Only the actual sail area, excluding roaches and the rounded foot of loose-footed sails is measured. The above drawing indicates the layout for triangular sails. The luff is measured from the lowest point on the tack of the sail to the bottom edge of the stick or headboard. If the sail has no headboard, the measurement is taken from a point at the head of the sail where its width is ¾ of an inch. The diagonal is measured from the aft edge of the clew to the closest point on the luff. The sail area of each sail is given by: Sail Area = luff measurement x diagonal measurement /2. The sum of the areas for the jib and Rudders may be of the spade or balanced type; that is, independently suspended and not attached to the keel or a skeg. Marbleheads of any design of the Traditional period that use a spade rudder shall be classed with the High Flyer division. Draft of a High Flyer model yacht fully rigged and ready to sail shall not exceed 16 inches. Updated 2007 Editor’s Note This article first appeared in Popular Science for March of 1942 and was probably submitted to the magazine before Pearl Harbor. Given the use of critical materials such as lead and brass, it is unlikely than many were made until after WWII. It is a sold and well designed little boat from the drawing board of John Black, who was repsonsible for the famous Cheerio M boat. Modern materials such as aircraft plywood and epoxy resin make her an easy boat to build and she fits perfectly into the Vintage 36 inch class. All of the hints and kinks published on the Web and in the AMYA magazine for the popular Soling One Meter can be used to set up her radio gear. Al Suydam has adapted her for radio control and rapid building in his WoodenBoat School class. It’s hard to think of an easier way to enjoy Vintage model yachting. Building Starlet Starlet is a 36-in. model racing yacht that you’ll find easy and inexpensive to make. The completed model is shown in Fig. 1. You begin by making the two-piece building board as detailed in Fig. 2. One edge of this should be planed straight and true and used in squaring the station lines across the top. Fig. 3 gives the correct spacing of the seven lines Next, 1/2in. square cleats to which the molds are to be fastened, are glued and nailed 1/8 in. forward of the station lines so that the molds will center on the lines. All seven molds can be cut from a 1/4 by 5 by 48in. piece. Fig. 41 gives full-size, halfbreadth patterns of each mold which you can transfer through onto thin paper and then to your wood. Trace only the side and bottom outlines and mark on each 1 Reproduced full size at the end of this article. respective pattern the point where the side line stops at the sheer. From the sheer point on, each pattern is drawn to extend to the base line (See Fig. 7.) Before you can lay these out on your wood, each pattern must be reduced 1/8 in. along the side and bottom because the outlines given are to the outside of the planking. In tracing around the patterns, be careful to keep the base line even with the edge of the wood. When you get the molds cut out, mark the deck crown on each one. For this you will need a cardboard template like the one shown to the right of Fig. 8. This one template is used to mark all molds. Place it on the work so that the curve will be even with the sheer points when the centerlines of both mold and tem-plate coincide, and then mark the curve. As this line likewise represents the outside of the deck planking, a second line must be drawn 1/8 in. in from the first. Now, referring to Fig. 7, you will see that a saw cut is made slightly above this second line and stopped about 1 in. from each side. This cut is made to simplify cutting line, the solid line represents the shape of the inner face. When cut, the transom should look like the one shown in the circular detail of Fig. 2. Run the notches 1/4 in. in from inner face and then center and glue it to the building board. Commence fitting the 1/8 by 3/4-in. the hull free of the building board. You will notice also that the center portion of the molds are cut out, Nos. 2 and 3 being cut according to Fig. 7. Before setting up the molds, cut the notches for the gunwale, chine and keelson. Make these slightly undersize so that they can be trimmed later to exact size. With a centerline marked the length of the building board, glue and brad each mold to its respective station cleat. While these are drying, you can cut out the stem and transom. Fig. 6 gives a full size pattern of the stem for tracing on a 5/8-in. block. The planking rabbet can be cut now, or later. In the latter case, be sure to mark the rabbet line on both sides of the block. To mark off the shape of the transom, refer to Fig. 4 and copy the full size patterns given for the stern and top view. Follow the dotted line in sawing the stern out- keelson flush to mold No. 4 and fasten it with a No. 0-3/8-in. brass screw. Hold the forward end down in the 1/4-in. stem notch and mark with a knife along each side of the keelson across each mold. Then notch and fasten. Fit the aft end the same way. The 1/8 by 5/16 in. chines and gunwales are fitted similarly, trin-ming the notches parallel with the edge of the mold. In some cases you may find it necessary to set the chine farther on some molds to obtain a nice s w e e p i n g curve. The forward ends of the chine) and gunwales butt against the sides of the stem it the base of the rabbet, the chines coming flush with the keelson as shown below. Before the planking can be applied, you’ll have to fair the edges of the molds forward and aft of No. 4, the chines and transom. A small block plane and a coarse wood file will be found best for this work. The important point here is to see that the framework is symmetrical to give a nice sweeping curve to the planking. With the hull faired, draw a line down the center of the keelson and begin fit-ting the two middle planks. One edge of each plank is tapered from the center to 7/16 in. wide at the ends. Make this a gradual taper so that each succeeding plank will lay nicely. between each mold, 1/8 in. in from the center joint. The planking on the original model was held with tiny brass screws, but if you should find these difficult to obtain, you can use/small brass escutcheon nails instead1. When you are satisfied with the fit, remove the planks and re-lay them in waterproof glue. Continue working from both sides of the centerline in laying the remaining bottom planks which all measure approximately 3/4 in. wide. Fasten each plank to each mold with two screws, or nails, and coat the butting edges generously with glue. Place the planks over the keelson, butting the straight edges together directly over the center-line, and fasten the ends to the stem with No. 0-3/8-in. brass screws. Then drive two screws into the keelson, To make the side planks fit properly, you will have to fair the edges of the outer planks flush with the chines. Fit the side planks to the stem rabbet first and fasten each plank with three brass screws. At the transom, use two screws, placing them below the deck line. Along the chine and gunwale, two screws are used between each mold. When dry, remove the surplus glue and dress down the bottom planks to a smooth surface. The shape of the two-part keel can be enlarged full size from the squares given in Fig. 3. To cast the lead part, a mold is required which you build up from three pieces of stock, the center piece being cut to the shape given in Fig. 13.2 When cast, the top edge is planed straight and square after which the positions of the keel bolts are marked in the center of the top and bottom edges. (See Fig. 3.)3 Now centerpunch and drill 3/16-in. holes, drilling from each edge to keep the hole running straight At the bottom these are counterbored for the bolt heads. The wood half is similarly drilled and then the two are assembled as a unit for final shaping. Round the forward and bottom edges and then with the keel clamped flat, taper the aft edge to 1/8 in. thick from a point 2 in. in on each side. Fit, glue and plumb the wood part of the keel exactly over the hull centerline. From here on the work will require the hull to be in an upright position. Start cutting it loose from the building board by sawing in from the edge to meet the saw cut previously made in each mold. 2 Given at the end of the article. 3 As always, be careful when casting lead, do it outdoors and avoid inhaling the fumes. Red oak makes good mold material. Use a sharp wood plane generously lubricated with mineral oil when planing lead. Cut the transom off 1/8 in. above the deck line and remove the screw in the stem. Fig. 12 details the stand which is shaped and grooved to correspond with the lower edge of the keel. Over each keel-bolt hole through the hull, you next fit a floor timber like the one shown in Fig. 10. Notice that the aft timber butts against the forward face of mold No. 5 to which it is glued. (See Fig. 3.) These timbers give a solid surface for drawing the keel firmly to the hull. When a good fit is had, apply waterproof glue and tighten the bolts. Resuming work on the hull, you next fair off the gunwales and file down the molds to the deck lines. After this, cut a notch in the top of each mold and the stem and transom, to receive flush a 1/8 by 3/4-in. backbone down the center of the hull. (See Fig. 10.) Figs. 8 and 9 show how the rudder is pivoted to the skeg, while Fig. 11 gives the shape of the two pieces on squares for enlarging full size. Drill an undersize hole through the bottom of the hull at the centerline, groove the edge of the skeg to fit the tube and then glue and screw the latter to the hull. Next, split the tube for a dis-tance equal to the aft edge of the skeg, drill for small screws and fasten it in place in white lead1. White lead is also applied under the plate which is soldered to; the post on the inside of the hull. (See Fig. 9.) The rudder is fitted to its post with two screws, the heads being countersunk, soldered and filed flush with the outside. To lay the one-piece deck, drill your 1/sin. wood to fit over the projecting rudder tube and fasten it temporarily for marking. Cut the piece 1/16 in. oversize so that you can later trim it flush with the sides. Prior to lay-ing the deck in white lead2, the underside of it3, as well as the inside of the hull, should be given three coats of paint or varnish. Also, don’t forget to add the pieces to the gunwales between molds 3 and 4. Set all screw heads just below the surface and fill with plastic wood. Figs. 14 and 15 detail the fittings and the deck plan shows you where they go. The mast step and chain plates are bent from thin sheet brass to stand about 1/4 in. high, and the tiller arm, Fig. 14, is pinned and soldered 1 1/2 in. from the forward end. The nutfaced spinners travel on a No. 6-32 threaded rod. Use straight-grain pine or spruce for the mast, boom and jib club shown in Fig. 19. First cut the pieces square, tapering the ends as indicated, and then form them round by planing off the corners and finishing with sandpaper. About 1 1/2 yds. of cambric or oiled silk are needed for the sails4. Spread the material out flat and mark it as shown in Fig. 18. Keep the mainsaiI leach A-C, about 2 in. in from the selvage edge. At B-C allow 3/4 in. for attach-ing the headboard. 4 These materials are extinct. The Vintage 36 rules require the use of woven sailcloth, such as ripstop nylon or dacron. MATERIAL LIST 2 pcs. 3/4 x 3 x 38-in. pine, building board 1 pc. 1\4 x 5 x 48-in. waterproof plywood, molds 1 pc. 5/8 x 2 x 4-in. pine, stem 1 pc. 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 3 1/2-in. pine, transom 7 pcs. 1/2 x 1/2 x 6-in. pine, cleats for molds 1 pc. l/8 x 5/8 x 38-in. pine, keel 2 pcs. l/8 x 5/16 x 38-in. pine chines 2 pcs. l/8 x 5/16 x 38-in. pine gunwales 2 pcs. 1/2 x 5/8 x 4-in. pine, floor timbers 12 pcs. l/8 x 3/4 x 38-in. pine, bottom planking 2 pcs. 1/8 x 3 x 38-in. pine, side planking 1 pc. 1/8 X 8 1/2 x 38-in. pine, deck planking 3 pcs. 9/16 x 6 x 1 8-in. pine, lead mold 1 pc. 9/16 x 9/16 x 54-in. pine, mast 1 pc. 7/16 x 7/16 x 20-in. pine, boom 1 pc. 3/8 x 3/8 x 13-in. pine, jib club 1 pc. 2 x 3 x 15-in. pine or spruce stand 1 pc. 1/4 O. D. x 5-in. brass, rudder tube 1 pc. 3/16 O. D, x 5-in. brass, rudder post 1 pc. 1/4 x 2 1/2 x 3-in. pine, rudder blade 1 pc. 3/16 x 10 1/2.in. brass rod keel bolts 4 No. 10-24 brass nuts for keel bolts 2 brass washers for keel bolts 8 lbs. lead for two-part keel 3 gross 1/2-in. brass escutcheon nails 1 lb. waterproof resin glue 12 brass screw eyes 7 ft. 1/32-in. brass wire for shrouds 1 pc. No. 28.ga. x 1 x 8-in. sheet brass for mast step, jib rack ond chain plates 1 pc. No. 22-ga. x 12-in. brass wire for hooks 1 pc. 1/16 x 3/16 x 6-in. brass for tiller 1 No. 6-32 x 23/2-in. bross bolt, 2 nuts, 2 washers 1 pc. 1/16 x 34 X 5-in. sheet brass for traveler an-gles ond spinners 1 pc. 7/16 O. D. x 1/2-in. brass tube, mast ferrule 20 ft. light fish line (braided preferred) Draw a straight line from A-C and measure out 1 1/2 in. for the curved edge. Do the same at the foot. Along the luff B-D, make marks 16 and 32 in. from D. At the 16-in. mark, you measure out 1/8 in., while at the 32-in. point, you measure in l/8 in. Through these points a reversed curve is drawn to give the right set to the sail. A 3/4-in. margin is allowed along BD for hemming, while 3/8 in. is sufficient along A-C and A-D. The jib sail is laid out similarly. The luff is curved through a at the top of the jib screw eye and adjusted to give the mast a 11/2-in. rake aft. The hull, keel, rudder and deck border of “Starlet” were enameled green, while the deck, mast, boom and club were finished nat-ural with white shellac. Before applying the first coat which should be thinned slightly with turpentine, give the wood a thorough sanding with Nos. O and 00 sandpaper. Between each coat rub down the enamel with No. 6-0 sandpaper or fine steel wool. The third and final coats may be left glossy, or rubbed down and waxed. John Black (1942) The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998 to 2012 U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Other copyrights are maintained by the original holders and such material is used here under the fair use provisions of the relevant copyright acts for nonprofit research and educational purposes. point marked 3/4 in. in, 12 in. from G, while on the leach the curve is brought out l/2 in., 14 in. from the same point. Before cutting the sails on the margin lines, sew l/4-in. tape inside lines B-D and E-G and straight across from A-D and E-F to keep the bias edge from stretching. Fold and sew a wide hem over the tape on the luff of each sail and a narrow one on the leach and foot. Along the luff of the mainsail, shoe eyelets, or grommets1, are spaced 3 in. apart through which a light cord is threaded and wound spirally around the mast as in Fig. 16. The clew and tack of the jib are tied loosely to the club in a manner similar to the mainsail, Fig. 22, while the cord in the luff, Fig. 17, runs to a hook in the deck jib rack. Figs. 20 and 21 show clearly how the main and jib sheets are rigged. The two wire shrouds which hook to the chain plates are looped around the mast Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Midwest Vice-President: Tom Pratt Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Vintage M Class Coordinator: John Henson Vintage 36 Inch Coordinator: Al Suydam A Class Coordinator: Rod Carr U.K. Coordinator: Graham Reeves Canadian Representative: Doug McMain Historian: Earl Boebert Archivist: Jim Dolan Here are the full size patterns for the rudder, skeg, molds, and lead keel of Starlet. The stem pattern is in the text. The keel pattern is half scale.