The Model Yacht: Volume 16, Number 2 – Summer 2013

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, DC NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SIXTEEN, NUMBER TWO Summer 2013 Page 1 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SIXTEEN, NUMBER TWO Summer 2013 Editor’s Welcome We continue our celebration of our sixteenth year of publication with something old and something new. The old is a reprint of an article we ran almost a decade ago on the construction of Snipe Jr., a miniature version of the celebrated Snipe class of sailing dinghies. This article is notable because it is by William Crosby, the designer of the original boat. The new is three lovely Traditional VM designs by Claudio Diolaiti of Nice, France. Two are based on full size boats and one is original. We also have a report on the first freesailing National Championship to be held in this country since 1970. And as usual, Mark Steele has contributed another fascinating Windling World column. Owing to space limitations, the next installment of our series on the Sonder class models will appear in the next issue. Earl Boebert Ebbs and Flows The President’s Message Vintage Membership – VMYG membership is $25 for three issues of our newsletter The Model Yacht over fifteen month period. It is $30 for members outside the US. VMYG lifetime membership is $125. Members gain access to technical design, building and historical articles on models and our sport plus notifications / reports on VMYG-sponsored events. To subscribe to or renew your newsletter membership, send $25 or $30 check (payable to US VMYG) to: John Snow, c/o US VMYG, 8 Summit Avenue, Salem, MA 01970. For more information, call John @ 978-5948521 or visit the US VMYG Web Site: http://www.usvmyg.org 2013 Woods Hole Model Boat Show Ninth biennial WHMBS was held in Woods Hole, MA April 13-14. This was combined AMYA-VMYG event with AMYA hosting multiple regattas via Jim Linville including women’s event with chartered Soling One Meter models. Check next Minuteman MYC newsletter for full regatta results and photos. The Page 2 VMYG again coordinated formal indoor exhibit with total of twenty-five AMYA and VMYG models. Bill Huizing’s 1885 Puritan America’s Cup Defender R/C model was featured. Also, several VM boats brought-in by show attendees were evaluated as to their origins and restoration needs. VMYG recognition is due for Fred & Sue Abbe, Jim Dolan, George & Norma Greenhalgh, Bill Huizing, Tod Johnstone and John Stoudt for their superb exhibits support. 2013 International “Challenge Cup” Regatta VMYG, in coordination with UK representative Graham Reeves, is supporting the seventh biennial international freesail (vane) match racing event on June 7-9 at Gosport (Portsmouth) and June 14-16 at Llandudno, Wales. It has teams of 8-10 skippers each from the UK and US racing each other at these historic UK model yacht locations. In addition, there will be A Class racing June 12 at Rick Pond, Hampton Court in London for skippers wanting to recreate feel of the “Yachting Monthly” Cup races (model yachting world championships) from the 1920s to the 1950s. For the latest details, contact Graham: Marblehead MYC is hosting first-ever regatta for all types of M designs from 1930 to present (including VMs) September 2122 at Redd’s Pond. Objective is to evaluate interest in covering all M models in future US design-focused class. Check with Commodore Ben Martin at 978-8289765 or John Skerry: scanocean@aol.com for details on this unique event that will “showcase” M 50-800 Class design heritage with their related sailing performance differences. Other Vintage Activities VMYG with AMYA is also supporting several other 2013 vintage model activities below in the Eastern US: May 19: VM “Home & Away” Series Regatta at Spring Lake, NJ; Contact Harry Mote: hjmote@verizon.net September 22: VM “Home & Away” Series Regatta at Downington, PA; Contact John Stoudt : jstoudt309@gmail.com June 8: Full Cup VM Invitational Regatta at Redd’s Pond, Marblehead, MA. graham@reevesmail.co.uk 2013 Charles W. Morgan Re-Launching VMYG is coordinating with Mystic Seaport Museum on possible traditional sailing craft model activity in association with the Seaport’s formal re-launching July 21 of its flagship 1841 Charles W. Morgan whaler after three + year restoration. This would be on Saturday, July 20, as “fun” sailing demonstrations for visitors attending this milestone event. Featured would be Bill Huizing’s museumquality Charles W. Morgan 87.5-inch scale R/C model leading this sailing parade. For details, contact John Snow: jsnowj@comcast.net New American M Class Invitational Regatta September 1-8 and 9-15: WoodenBoat School building and finishing planked vintage pond yacht courses at Brooklin, ME conducted by VMYG’s Thom McLaughlin. September 13-15: VMYG “Vintage Model Yachting Days” National Regatta hosted by The Marbleheaders of Spring Lake, NJ at Spring Lake: R/C V36 and VM model racing. Contact Harry Mote for details at 609-660-0100 or the email given above. NOR and registration info will be available late spring of 2013. October 19-20: Bithell Cup VM Invitational Regatta (10/19) coupled with Mar- Page 3 blehead MYC Chowder Race (10/20) open regatta at Redd’s Pond. Contact John Snow at 978-594-8521 or the email above for Redd’s Pond events. Any club willing to host VMYG’s “Traditional Sailing Craft / Scale Model” National Regatta in 2014 is asked to contact John Snow as well. VMYG Resource Material Visit the US VMYG website at the link given above and then click on the “USVMYG Store” to order the following resource material: Yankee III book authored by VMYG Historian Earl Boebert on CD or downloadable. CD is $15.00 postpaid in US; $20.00 rest of world. $10.00 if you download your own. Book summarizes history of the America’s Cup 1930s era J Class and provides detailed modern building techniques through an available molded hull to craft an R/C V36 model from the 1930 Yankee J Boat design. Yankee III is entrylevel model based on original 1935 Yankee Jr. hull design lines by John Black. Building Planked Models DVD plus book with selected articles from the VMYG The Model Yacht newsletter. Package is $25.00 postpaid in US; $35.00 rest of world. It is a “how to” vintage model building book by Charles Farley describing plank-onframe methods used for 1940s model yacht racing class designs with modern adhesives. The Model Yacht newsletter back issues in PDF format on DVD as complete set only of over 40 issues (since 1996), each full of 20 or more pages of technical and historical information. The DVD is $40.00 postpaid in the US; $50.00 in the rest of the world. John Snow In honor of the stalwart sailors who will be chasing free-sailing boats in England and Wales this month, Ains Ballantyne’s 1945 vane gear design. Page 4 Of falling in love with Joanna, Murray’s oldie Undine, the ups and downs of life’s roller coaster rides, a fast schooner in Miami n’ other boats ! What a month January was – a roller coaster ride from hell insofar as malfunctions of the computer kind, and “personal balls-ups” on mine were concerned. Talk about ones rise and fall of spirits (ask Lance Armstrong!) in roller coaster “ups and downs” manner, I experienced them, I sure did ! Imagine a silly old sausage like me having a “holy smokery” affair with a midget-sized boat, one that culminated in blinding passion as it peaked ! (Now I”ll be in deep “poo-poos” for having spoken out!) The yawl Joanna, (seen above and again below) and Kiwi throughout, is an absolute sweetheart of a boat at only twenty-two inches long plus bowsprit. She was created by the late Roy Lake who gave her to me a few years before he died. Sadly I let her lay idle in my garage for years before I gifted her to friend, Harry Duncan who fitted her with RC gear and spruced her up, then as joint owners shortly after, we founded The Joanna (Model) Trust of New Zealand. Joanna, ready for a cruise Page 5 Side-on, baring her charms. Murray White, one of Auckland’s Ancient Mariners model yacht sailors, is known as a fine builder of classic models that usually sail as well as they look. His latest is this RC model of the 1845 Undine (seen below) the word meaning “a female water sprite”. Murray’s model seen again in the second photograph above, has a planked hull, ribbed and framed in oak, with cabins in teak, spars and mast made of oregon and Dacron sails which he stained with wood stain to appear both old and used. The real boat was commissioned by Bishop George Augustus Selwyn, and Young Auckland sailor of the future. Two photos above and right of Undine, the model was built in Mechanics Bay, Auckland NZ. A twenty-two ton topsail schooner, forty feet, four inches long in length, she was for coastal voyages and a few years later after she parted her cable with nobody aboard, the schooner went ashore on Great Mercury Island and the following day became a total wreck. Here is a keen young Kiwi sailor enthralled by one of Jacqui Wellington’s equally lovely schooner models, in the photo (above) taken some years ago by the writer at Cheltenham Beach overlooking Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf. I might well have heard him say, “One day, just like Sir Peter Blake … and after I am Knighted, naturally, I’ll sail the world as Sir Marcus Pickering aboard a schooner just like this one !” (That readers, is my story and I’m sticking to it… naturally !) Page 6 Victor Leong, another of my friendsnever-met, builds and sails a couple of exciting RC schooners. He lives in Miami, and one of them, a stunning multimasted model is seen below blasting upwind on a sunny day somewhere in Florida. He is excited about the old piratical days and has built several pirate ship models that are featured in his own videos on YouTube. He is also a constructor of utterly brilliant sand castles at resorts and in addition is a talented “ships in bottles” artist, his work selling well in Miami shops. Does Victor Edward Leong ever sleep, somehow I rather doubt it ? When a rather basic damaged model sailboat to a pair of Auckland youngsters that was previously owner by an older brother who had died years before. Their grandmother asked me if I could find someone to rebuild the wrecked and broken boat. With the help of Ron Rule who did just that, a wonderful restoration eventuated, the result shown in the photograph. Our “Ancient Mariners” can often help those in need. Victor Leong’s schooner on an upwind run. Page 7 The Challenge for the America’s Cup By Mark Steele A million, a billion, a trillion, a zillion Just who the giddy hell cares ? Two sailors both wealthy and bats in each belfry “I want the cup” one declares ! We’ve screwed it all up but I have the cup And I”ll pray and I”ll pray for best airs I can do as I please buy another with ease and we can both be cup holders for years ! Jaqui Wellington holding her model ketch. And I take your leave with my photograph below, the model barge Revive moving away from the wharf, the model built, owned, and sailed by the late Royston Lake in Auckland NZ. Page 8 Mark Steele The First 36 Inch Restricted Class Championship Editor’s Note The 36 Inch Restricted Class, or 36R, is a U.K. class that dates back to the 1930s. Intended as class of inexpensive boats for junior sailors, the class rules define a box in which the hull must fit: 36 inches long by 9 inches wide by 11 inches deep. This “box rule” inspired the similar rule for the AMYA Footy class. In 2001 a group of free-sailing enthusiasts in the U.K. coordinated a Challenge Cup series with members of the San Francisco Model Yacht Club, which was the last active free-sailing club in the United States. The first race was held in England between Marblehead class boats. After some discussion it was decided to continue the series with 36R boats and hold races every other year, alternating between the U.K. and the U.S. The next race, in the U.K. will be held just as this newsletter goes to print. As a warmup, the championship described below was held in San Diego. Race Report The first 36R-Class National Championship was hosted by the San Diego Argonauts on April 20 at their pond in Mission Bay. A total of twelve boats participated, four from the San Diego Model Yacht Club, and eight from the San Francisco Model Yacht Club. Many thanks to Ernie Mortensen for organizing the event. As usual for San Diego, the weather was beautiful; warm, sunny, with a steady wind that varied only slightly north or south of west. Only at the west end of the lake did a wind shadow caused by trees make the start of the run somewhat iffy. Elsewhere, the wind was quite steady and reliable. What a contrast to Spreckels Lake! Also, since the San Diego pond has grass down to the lake’s edge, with no sidewalk around it, it’s a very private setting: no joggers or cyclists here. As this was a one-day event, the size of the fleet dictated a three-boat start. This did result in more collisions, some of which were consequential, but accepted in good cheer. The steady, light winds made it possible to try out spinnakers, and Bruce Ettinger, Bernard Price, and Mike Stobbe tried their luck on one or two boards. It’s questionable whether any advantage was observed, but it was fun. Unfortunately, one San Diego skipper, Jim Hawkins, had to drop out with gear problems that couldn’t be remedied at lakeside. Jeff Stobbe, trying out a new boat, also had trouble. His boat won nearly every run, but couldn’t be made to beat. Everyone else had a good day of sailing. Mike Stobbe took first place. Colleen Stobbe took second, and Ed Schoenstein came in third. The complete results are below. Most of the gang went out to dinner together in San Diego’s Old Town, and a good time was had by all. 1st Mike Stobbe, 36R-SF34, Black Magic 2nd Colleen Stobbe, 36R-SF58, Scrappy 3rd Ed Schoenstein, 36R-SF35, Red 4th Gordon Leighton, 36R-SF51, Bad News 5th Ernie Mortensen, 36R-SD1 Tackless 6th Helene Woolsey, 36R-SF57 7th Bernard Price, 36R-SF49 8th Mark Hallberg, 36R-SD2 9th Jeff Stobbe, 36R-SF56, Scruffy 10th Paul Kelly, 36R-SD4 Ventura 11th Bruce Ettinger, 36R-SF55, Warp Speed DNF Jim Hawkins, 36R-SD3 Page 9 Mike Stobbe The San Diego Pond, calm at the windward end. Photo by Mike Stobbe From front: Paul Kelly, Gordon Leighton, and Ernie Mortensen start a beat. Photo by Mike Stobbe. Page 10 Chute flying on Bruce Ettinger’s Warp Speed. Don’t try this at Spreckels! Photo by Mike Stobbe. From left: Bernard Price, Mike Stobbe, Ed Schoenstein, Paul Kelly, Mark Hallberg, Bruce Ettinger, Helene Woolsey, Colleen Stobbe, Jeff Stobbe, Ernie Mortensen, Gordon Leighton. Not pictured, Jim Hawkins. Page 11 The Designs of Claudio Diolaiti Claudio Diolaiti of Nice, France, is a prolific and accomplished designer who generously shares his work on the rcsailing.net web site. Claudio does his designing in the traditional fashion, calculating basic parameters such as righting moment and hull balance. In February of this year he conducted a poll to choose 12 Meter and J Class prototypes for models of a convenient size. In the course of the discussion a consensus was reached that, since the proposed designs were so close to a VM, he would go ahead and make the designs confirm to the the VM rule. boat Columbia, successful defender of the 1958 America’s Cup. against the British challenger Sceptre. This match was described in John W. Illingworth’s book Where Seconds Count. Designed by Olin Stephens, Columbia still exists and can be chartered out of Newport, RI. The thread dealing with these models can be found at http://bit.ly/10LY0go and contains much information of interest to designers of scale or traditional form model yachts. (Note: All VM plans in this issue are 1/5 full size.) Claudio has kindly agreed to let us publish three of the resultant designs here. The first is the the legendary 12 Meter Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Endeavour II The most popular of the J Class boats in the poll, and candidate for the most beautiful of the J’s, was Endeavor II, the 1937 challenger who lost to the “Super J” Ranger. This is not the first time that a Marblehead class boat has been based on a J; in the 1930s the Boucher company produced a kit for a Marblehead-compliant model based on Shamrock IV. Unsurprisingly, the basic dimensions of the two models are very similar. Universal Rule boats, like the J and R classes, are designed to be sailed at high angles of heel, so that the underwater profile stretches out and gives a longer actual waterline than the one used to determine the allowed sail area. A similar principle applies to the 12 Meter boats such as Columbia. This means that the models must be controlled differently from the “stiff” fin and bulb designs many skippers are familiar with. The skill here, especially to windward, is to hold the boat right at the edge of disaster. For some skippers this is an annoyance, for others it is a thrill. The real Endeavour II still exists. She lay derelict for decades, being saved from scrapping by hours in one adventure and sinking in another. In 1984 she was bought by Elizabeth Meyer, who spent 5 years restoring her. The sight of Endeavour II led to a resurgence of the modern J Class and a second replica is now under construction using modern materials. Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Esterel VM In the discussion thread on rcsailing.net, someone suggested that Claudio compare his calculations with those for the similar EC12 class boats and other VMs, in particular Madcap. One thing led to another, and Claudio came up with this “pure” VM design which has no relation to a full size boat. For those who wish to construct any of these boats, Claudio has provided drawings for the hull shadows as well as those shown here. These can be located on the Web at the URL shown above. If you have any difficulty getting these, please contact us by any of the ways listed in the masthead and we’ll get them to you. She really is a pretty thing, classically balanced with minimal movement of the Center of Buoyancy under heel, and should therefore be easy to sail. Page 18 Earl Boebert Page 19 Page 20 Snipe Junior Editor’s Foreword William F. Crosby was the editor of The Rudder magazine and designer of the celebrated Snipe class of one-design racing boats. In this 1932 article he gives detailed, step-by-step instructions for building and sailing a 20 inch LOA model of his most famous creation. We include Crosby’s instructions (minus the dangerous advice about casting lead) for historical interest. The basic construction of carved bottom and sheet sides can be duplicated easily today with any soft wood for the bottom and model aircraft plywood for the sides. The original lead in the keel can be replaced with slabs of brass or well-painted steel. This is a perfect class project for elementary students or as a “Grandparent’s boat.” There is plenty of room for the addition of simple radio control, as described at the end of the article. Snipe Jr. The popularity of the original Snipe design and the fact that hundreds of these little sail-boats have been built and sailed, has led to the development of this practical sailing model. The original Snipe was not a model but a Marconi rigged knockabout 15 feet 6 inches long adapted to one-design racing. Snipe Junior is practically the same type hull modified to meet the needs of a good sailing model and so simplified that almost any boy or girl can make it successfully and for little or no money at all. The original Snipe was equipped with a center-board but practical experience has shown that a center-board will not work successfully on a model of this type and so a fin keel with suitable lead weight has been added instead. The rig is somewhat higher than on Snipe and other minor changes have been made in the shape of the hull to make it a better sail-ing model. The type of boat is known as vee-bottom because, instead of having the usual rounded shape, the hull has a distinct knuckle that starts at the bow and runs clear through to the stern. This is called the chine and gives us a boat that is straight sided from the chine to the edge of the deck and from the chine down to the keel. If you will look at the sections of the model or of Snipe, you will see that the bottom has a distinct vee to it and is therefore called a vee-bottom. The drawings explain practically everything necessary for the construction of this little model, which will be 20 inches long when you have it finished. Follow each operation by number, taking each one up in turn and before long you will have some very definite results. The mast and sail are of the most modern type and we would not advise changing them. The most important thing is to have a good suit of sails, made of balloon silk or some similar light, strong material. When in place, these sails should fit just as perfectly as you can get them. Wrinkles are not tolerated in a racing sail, as they seriously affect the efficiency of the sail and consequently the speed of the boat. No rudder is incorporated in the design for the simple reason that it complicates things and is not absolutely necessary for successful sailing. If the boat is built exactly according to the plans with the sail and mast exactly as located and the keel in the proper place, you will find that Snipe Junior will sail back and forth across the lake in great shape without the necessity of carrying the drag of a rudder through the water. The only time that a model really needs a rudder is when it is running directly with the wind, and since a rudder for this work entails a very complicated steering apparatus on deck, it is believed that the model would be better without it. Absolutely no rudder is needed for all ordinary sailing. Page 21 Page 22 For the bottom part of the hull, which is made from a solid block, the best thing to have would be a nice block of what is known as pattern maker’s kiln-dried white pine. This is splendid material to work with because it is soft and will work nicely and will finish off as smooth as anyone could wish. The side pieces may also be made of the same material as well as bulkheads, stem piece and stern. The deck may be made from the same kind of wood or anything else that you happen to have handy. Sometimes it is possible to get large pieces of cigar box wood (Spanish Cedar) and if you can get this, the sides and deck will be very pretty when finished off with a little varnish. A thin piece of Philippine mahogany will also do very well and it is not as expensive as you might think. Some kinds of plywood are also suitable. In putting on the thin side pieces, securely fasten them to the stem piece first, using 5/4 inch No. 0 flat head screws, and then bend them in place slowly, fastening along the chine and to the bulkheads as you go. In order not to change the shape in any way it might be wise to work on both side pieces at the same time. The material should not be over 1/8 inch thick or there may be difficulty in bending it around. Soaking a piece of wood in water for several hours will make it somewhat softer and more pliable and may help you a lot. The fin keel may be made from a piece of 16 gauge sheet brass or iron, cut to the shape as shown. The entire hull must be sandpapered off carefully until you have an absolutely smooth surface. The nail heads (1/4 inch brads), for fastening the side planks in place, may be countersunk a trifle and the heads covered over with putty, Plastic Wood or some similar composition. Take particular care where the edge of the deck comes over the side planks. If the boat leaks here when heeled over under sail pressure she will surely fill in time and possibly sink in the middle of the lake. Smear Ambroid or some similar material along the edge before the deck is fastened down so that the joint will be absolutely watertight. As an alternative for the brad fastenings, you might use 1/4 inch No. 0 brass flat head screws which will make a very pretty job that may be varnished when complete. The hull, when sanded down perfectly smooth, may be painted in any way you wish. Some of the lacquers used for touching up automobiles are very good, as they will lie smoothly on the wood, and if a couple of coats are Page 23 given, with a light sandpapering between the first and second coats, you will have a real “racing finish.” The deck may be sandpapered and coated with a light coat of good varnish. Don’t make the mistake of putting on thick coats of paint. It is far better to use two or three thin coats rather than one heavy coat as the paint will not crawl but will finish off much smoother. The stays from the mast to the deck are made of No. 22 copper wire, which is passed around small screw eyes in the deck at the spots where they are supposed to come down. The jib is sewed directly to the jib stay. For the sheets from the point of the jib to deck and from the end of the boom to deck use light linen thread. Don’t use heavy, clumsy cord for this. In sailing the model, remember that she will do her best when going across the wind. By this it is meant that if the wind is from the south, your model will sail best from east to west or from west to east. In sailing on large bodies of open water. the model should be tended with a rowboat or you can attach a light cord to the bow, permit her to sail out to sea across the wind, and then, by pulling gently on the cord, she may be turned about and will sail back to you. Of course, you must take in the light cord slowly so it will not retard her speed too much. Don’t try to sail in too much wind. The best breeze is one that just barely ripples the surface of the water Heavy breezes cause a model to lie way over on its side and will sometimes cause it to Page 24 turn around and start back to the place from which it was started. model a few times, you will discover by experiment. just where the mast step should be to have her sail properly. One of the chief faults of most model skippers is to have the sails, and particularly the jib too tightly pulled in or trimmed. Allow a little slack in the cord that holds the jib in place so that the jib can flow off in a nice curve and so that it draws properly. The end of the jib where the sheet is tied should be almost out to the side of the model. The same thing applies to the mainsail and where it is fastened. It should be allowed to swing out a little so that the boom is about over the edge of the deck. If pulled in too tightly, she will not sail properly and if too slack or too far out the model may tend to get out in the middle of the lake and sail around in a circle while you may wait on shore for hours for her to come back. There are many ways to race models and some of the large model yacht associa- Page 25 Page 26 tions have worked out complicated courses and systems of point scoring. Probably the easiest and simplest way to race such models as Snipe Junior would be to select some small body of water or lake where the models could be sailed directly across wind from one side to the other. The start could be made on one side by one boy while another waited across the lake to turn the model around when she reached there and so back to the start. At the start all models would be lined up and held by their sterns and, at the signal, released with a gentle push. Don’t push them too hard as they will not carry their momentum and may possibly turn right around and come back to you. The best model racers do not push their models at all, but permit the wind to take the boats out of their hands when the starting signal is given. A race may be just once across the lake, it may be over and back or it may include several round trips, according to the time available. In turning the boats around to return on their next laps, do not take them from the water. Simply use a short piece of wood to turn the bow so that it is facing the other way. Never push the model when doing this, as it is against all racing rules. If you have your model properly built and properly balanced so that it will sail correctly she will sail back and forth across the lake with the minimum amount of attention and as a consequence will have a splendid chance of winning races. This process of balancing is one that takes time, and while the drawings show the boat very carefully balanced, there may be minor changes in your boat that may necessitate some rebalancing before she sails correctly. The process is one that takes time and patience and if your model does not sail properly the first dozen or so times, it is up to you to experiment with the location of the mast step and the trim of the sails to see that an improvement is made. It is not an easy job to have a small model balance per- fectly but it can be done, and when accomplished the results are well worth while. A perfectly balanced model will win races. Possibly you may not understand what is meant by balance, and in order to make it clearer, we will briefly outline what it means. The pressure on the sails caused by the wind would cause the model to go sideways faster than she would go ahead were it not for the keel down underneath the water. This keel serves two purposes: the lead weight serves to hold the model upright and prevent capsizing and the area of the metal causes a back pressure against the water when the pressure is applied to the sails, thus preventing the boat from sailing sideways. There is a very definite relation between the amount of pressure on the sails and the amount of pressure on the side of the keel, and the sails center of pressure is called the center of effort. The center of pressure on the keel is called the center of lateral plane and in a successful sailboat the designer has worked out by mathematics the locations of both centers and so placed the mast and keel that the center of effort comes in a certain relation to the center of lateral plane. If the center of effort is too far ahead of the center of lateral plane, the boat’s bow will tend to fall off or be pushed away from the direction of the wind, eventually causing the boat to turn around and start off in the other direction. If the center of effort is too far toward the stern, the boat will swing her bow up so that it faces into the wind eventually will swing over on the other tack and head back where she came from. By moving the keel of Snipe Junior forward or aft a little it is possible to bring the center of lateral plane into different relation to the center of effort, and with care and a little head work you can get the balance so fine that the model will sail a straight, true course clear across the lake and back. Naturally, a model that sails the straightest course and does not Page 27 go off on another tack every once in a while is going to be the model that will win all the races and careful balancing is well worthwhile. William F. Crosby (1932) A Note on Radio Control A boat this small can be easily controlled with mini- and micro- sized servos used for “park flyer” electric airplanes. The sail servo should use a double arm, with the jib sheets and main sheet running as shown in the plans. The distinctive Snipe class rudder poses a minor problem, since it is hung from the raked transom and the rudder post is not vertical as shown below. The scale rudder should be enlarged by 25% or so in both width and depth. The best way to control it is with a deckmounted micro servo having two arms running at right angles to the hull centerline, with a equal length, two-arm bellcrank at right angles to the rudder, connected to the servo with two lines in a “pull-pull” arrangement. The boat should be trimmed in the bathtub prior to putting on the deck and attaching the ballast. Weigh the rig and place an equivalent weight in the hull a little behind the mast position, holding it in place with masking tape. Then make up a little bag of weight using nuts and bolts and scrap and fiddle with its amount and location until the boat floats on its lines. Weigh the radio gear and subtract that amount from the bag. Cut your metal ballast slabs to the weight of the test bag. Back to the bathtub, this time to position the ballast slabs in the hull so it floats level but high. Mark their location so you can carry it down to the bottom of the fin. Attach the ballast. Last trip to the bathtub. Move the radio gear around until the boat floats on her lines. Install the radio gear and mount the deck with screws and automotive water pump sealer so you can get it off later if you have to. Earl Boebert The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998 to 2013 U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Other copyrights are maintained by the original holders and such material is used here under the fair use provisions of the relevant copyright acts for nonprofit research and educational purposes. Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Midwest Vice-President: Tom Pratt Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Vintage M Class Coordinator: John Henson Vintage 36 Inch Coordinator: Al Suydam A Class Coordinator: Rod Carr U.K. Coordinator: Graham Reeves Canadian Representative: Doug McMain Historian: Earl Boebert Archivist: Jim Dolan Page 28 Humptulips was the 1941 predecessor to Ted Houk’s classic Rip Tide. The “Seal Flipper” keel was developed by Gus Lassel and Ted Thorsen by towing heeled models along a dock and made famous by Lassel’s Sun Kiss. The plan notes that a 4 to 6 ounce trim ballast is required at the stern. The boat is named after a town in Washington State. Page 29