The Model Yacht: Volume 17, Number 2 – Fall 2015

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, DC NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SEVENTEEN, NUMBER TWO Fall 2015 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SEVENTEEN, NUMBER TWO Fall 2015 Editor’s Welcome John Snow is occupied with his charity trip to the Philippines, so I get the whole front page this issue. Work on my book on the Deepwater Horizon explosion is wrapping up and I am happy to be able to turn my attention back to The Model Yacht. You may notice that the usual announcement about renewals is missing from the back cover. We are in the process of auditing and cleaning up our files and will be sending separate renewal and subscription information out after the National Regatta in September. Speaking of which, we have included the Notice of Race in this issue and are looking forward to seeing you there. The contents of this issue were prompted by an inquiry from Tom Screiber about an old boat he had discovered and eventually purchased. This led me on a search of material I had scanned in from the British Journal The Model Engineer, which covered model yachting up to the initiation of the The Model Yachtsman in 1928. In the course of that search I was reminded of some material I had always wanted to republish: a series of articles on large oceangoing model yachts constructed by a Mr. H. M. Savage. The articles we are running in this issue are from 1903, and cover a model about the size of an AMYA J Class boat. In our next issue we will document the culmination of this gentleman’s efforts, a 233 pound behemoth that carried a whopping 8000 square inches of sail. Self-Steering Model yachts were the first autonomous vehicles, engineering artifacts intended to move in a defined way without human intervention. The people that the devised and refined them didn’t think in such grandiose terms, of course, they just wanted their boats to go in a straight line. The essence of autonomous operation is the feedback control loop, in which a sensor “reads” some value, and then sends a control signal that changes things. The sensor then gets a new reading, makes a new adjustment, and so forth to the end of the trip. There were three general forms of selfsteering during the free-sailing era. The first, and the one we treat in this issue, Page 1 was the weighted rudder, invented according to T. E. Biddle’s 1879 treatise Model Yacht Building and Sailing, in 1855: A properly constructed vessel, when pressed down on her side, has a strong tendency to shoot up into the wind; but as the wind lessens this decreases, and, therefore, the degree of helm necessary to keep her straight in the height of a squall, will turn her head right away from her course after it is over ; therefore, as in a model it is impossible to have somebody at the tiller to ease the helm, an apparatus is necessary by which the helm can be altered at various degrees of inclination. The weighted or balanced rudder, as adopted, in 1855, by my brother R. J. Biddle, the Marine Artist, I have found the most effectual. A model generally requires from four to six rudders—No. 1 for beating to windward, No. 2 for reaching, No. 3 for a quartering wind, and No. 4 for running dead before it. Where great nicety is required in the trim, a couple of intermediate rudders may be made; but all this can only be found out by experiment and practice. The weighted rudder “reads” the angle of heel of the boat. The next generation of “sheet to tiller” gears, exemplified by the famous Braine gear of 1904, “reads” the amount of pressure on the sails. The final generation, the vane gear invented by Nathanael Herresoff in 1875 and re-invented by various individuals in the 1930’s, “reads” the angle of the apparent wind. All of these “signal” the rudder: the weighted rudder by direct action of the weight, the “sheet to tiller gears” and vane gears through a linkage. The articles we present describe the weighted rudder approach just before it was obsoleted by the Braine gear, an a hybrid gear (typical of technological evolution) that combined “sheet to tiller” and weighted rudder. Earl Boebert “Model Yacht Races in Boston Charles River Basin is the scene of many an interesting race between beautiful model yachts in which the excitement of owners and watchers closely approximates that of a big race. Contestants gather together for argument and otherwise, are all keyed up at the word ‘go’ and wait the outcome with bated breath.” (Original caption, United Newspictures Inc., July 24, 1925) Page 2 Carita An Unexpected Find I checked e-mail and found one from a club member about an old wooden boat. As I read the e-mail’s content, it became apparent he had been contacted by a second hand merchandise store seeking information on how to price a boat which had been found in a donation box. Inspecting the hull cavity revealed that she had been built by a bygone craftsman and that she had indeed been carved from a single piece of pine. Replacing the hatch cover and looking again at her deck, it dawned on me that there was no steering mechanism and no marks indicating that a s t e e r i n g mechanism had ever been secured. That was curious! Another look at the keel revealed that there was in fact no rudder, no hole for a rudder post and no hinges or hinge marks for a rudder! The boat’s dimensions were, 39.5 inches long with a 9.5 inch wide. She was solid and came with a Having seen mast, main Carita in the Store her, and with boom and jib a poke in the boom and side from my sails. The sails had dry rotted, were torn wife, the boat left the store with us as her and very fragile. Having just completed new owners. my first Vintage Marblehead, my interest In the basement workshop another more was piqued. A time was arranged for my detailed inspection took place. What wife and me to see the boat and really kind of a project had I just purchased? give her a good look over. More dimensions were taken: Upon introducing ourselves to the store LOA- 39.625 inches staff, we were guided to the boat which had been set aside for us. Her lines were Beam 9.625 at 21.75 from the stem strong and the hull was indeed solid. Keel lead length: 11.5 to 12 inches (due to The pine deck planks were in good concutout) dition and secure. The hull paint was faded and crazed and some of the deck Keel depth 4.75 inches plank caulking was missing. The mast Hull weight minus all rigging 12 lbs 1.2oz and main boom were straight and fit the boat’s style. The jib boom had been broRealizing this was out of my knowledge ken and repaired at some point in her life. base and experience, I contacted Earl reUpon removing her mahogany hatch questing any help he could offer on idencover, the rusted keel bolts and nuts were tifying the age of the boat. His response visible. delighted and surprised us. After reviewing the pictures and data it is felt Page 3 Carita Afloat for the CLR Test that this boat fits the style and criteria of boats built around 1880 to 1890. She likely had a weighted rudder attached to the keel. But one thing stood out as very curious besides the fact that she had no rudder. It appeared that the back of the keel had been cut away at some point in the past and that a wooden spacer had been inserted between the molded lead weight and the keel mounting to the hull. For this to be confirmed, the paint needed to be removed from the hull in the area, just behind the keel, to see if any marks remained from such an action. So I carefully set to work stripping paint from the area. The outside layer bubbled quickly and came off easily. The next layer required some soaking time for the stripper, then was removed, revealing yet another layer. This layer proved to be a challenge and may be the reason for the hull being in such good condition. After allowing the stripper to soak into the paint, it never bubbled. It just softened and required scrapping with a razor blade to remove. Several applications paint stripper, then scraping, was required to reveal the wooden hull. Confirmation of being carved from a single block was easily confirmed by following the wood grain patterns. Evidence of the position and shape of the original keel was not found (such as, no marks that material had been removed, no holes which had been filled in). Completing the border of this puzzle had eluded us. It was then suggested that the CLR (center of lateral resistance) be found and the CE (center of effect) of the sails be calculated to see if they made sense. So I was off to the farm pond behind our house like a school boy with his boat and some string. The CLR was established at 20.3 inches from the stem (along the hull centerline). Next, was to calculate the sail CE. With the ping pong table converted to a drafting table, and several sheets of paper taped together, I traced the outline of the sails in the positions they would be installed on the hull. Each sail‘s CE was found, then the calculation to determine the total CE was performed. To find the relationship of the sail total CE to the hull CLR, I plotted the CLR along the bottom of the papers, using the mast centerline as the constant. The result was the sail total CE was 1.25 inches behind the hull CLR. It appears the keel has been modified. Sailing the boat in this configuration would not be possible as she would head immediately to wind and stay there. So now the real questions and decisions: What to do with Carita? Replace the removed paint and set her on the shelf to be enjoyed and collect dust? Set her aside and move on to other hulls waiting for my attention? Modify her as needed, to fit as well as possible, to a sailing boat of this era? Restore her, as close as possible, to the condition and configuration of her era? Tom Schreiber Page 4 Sea-Going Model Yachts [1903] The various articles which have appeared from time to time in The Model Engineer upon the designing, building, and sailing of model yachts have been a source of interest and instruction to all who take a pleasure in this fascinating pastime. Almost without exception, all these articles have dealt with model yachts of small dimensions, which may possibly interest the majority of your readers, especially those who are not fortunate enough to live near the sea or any large sheets of water, where there is greater scope for pursuing the sport under conditions which more nearly resemble those governing the actual sailing of large yachts. It is, therefore, for such readers who may live rear the sea, and for those who may, perhaps, feel disposed to build model yachts of large dimensions that this article is chiefly written. In dealing with such models as, say, 35to 45 raters, it must be clearly kept in mind that the conditions for sailing them on large sheets of water, and more especially at sea, where not only one has to contend with strong winds, but also with tidal currents and choppy seas, are entirely different from those which exist where model yachts are sailed on inland lakes and smooth waters, when they can be easily handled, and where the course sailed over is generally not long enough to really test their sailing qualities. Some of your readers, when at the seaside, may have been spectators of what are called “Model Yacht Regattas,” at which boats of from 2 ft. to 3 ft. in length are placed in a choppy sea with a strong breeze, the so- called race generally consisting of a drifting match, the tide or cur- Mr. H.M. Savage’s Sea-Going Model Yacht Hilda Page 5 rent taking the little boats quite out of their course, and the winner generally proving to have been the best drifter. Now with boats of large dimensions and greater displacement this is not the case, as they may be designed and built heavy enough to withstand the currents and to hold their own very well in even what sailors call a moderate sea. Moreover, in the matter of expense, the difference in cost of building a boat of say 3 ft. W. L. and 6 ft. W.L. is trivial, the great disadvantage being, of course, that in the latter case it requires more than one person to lift it into the water, besides requiring the attendance of a small rowing boat and oar-man to enable the person sailing to work his model to advantage. Having in the course of a few years built several large models, my experience may be of interest to those who may be inclined to try their hand at a sea-going yacht. I have found that the most suitable dimensions for such a craft are those represented by my model cutter Hilda, a 40 rater, which was exhibited at the Holborn Town Hall at the last Conversazione of the Society. As this yacht has sailed over 100 miles at sea, in all kinds of weather, and her satisfactory performances have amply repaid me for the time, trouble and expense in constructing her, I think she may be considered as a safe type to follow both in build and rig. The designing and actual building of models has been dealt with so ably in various articles in The Model Engineer, that I will briefly state that the designs of my yacht were drawn out for me by Mr. Wilson Theobald, M.A., and that, at my request the boat was designed as a cruiser, and not as a racer. Subject to a few minor alterations, his actual dimensions of hull were adhered to, and a few particulars may be of interest. Length Overall: 7 ft. 4 ins. , Length L.W.L.: 5 ft. 6 ins. Greatest beam amidship: 1 ft. 6 ins. Freeboard amidship: 8 ins. Length of fin: 33 ins. Depth of fin: 9 5/8 ins. Lead ballast and zinc fin: 40 lb. 1 oz Loaded rudder: 5 lb. 15 ozs Total ballast: 46 lb. 0 ozs. Displacement: 109 lb. Overhang forward: 1 ft. Overhang aft: 1ft 3 ins. Mainmast, height from deck: 5 ft. Mainboom: 5 ft. 8 ins. Gaff: 3 ft. 3 ins. Bowsprit outboard: 1 ft. 7 ins. (12 ins. inboard). Topmast: 3 ft. 9 ins. Hounds: 9 ins. Topsail yard rising 30 ins, above topmast. Spinnaker boom: 5 ft. 3 ins. Sail areas— Mainsail: 1,890 sq. ins. Topsail: 625 sq. ins. Foresail: 427 sq. ins. Jib: 318 sq. ins. Flying jib: 270 sq. ins. Total: 3,530 sq. ins. Rating (LWL x SA)/6000 = 38.83 Construction The timbers are of oak, 1/4 in. sided, and 3/16 in. moulded, spaced 6 ins. centre to centre. These had to be steamed before being placed into position, and this was accomplished in the following manner: A new 5-gallon petroleum drum, fitted with a screw stopper on top, served as a boiler, and after having made a wooden steam box, 3 ft. by 5 ins. square, of i-in. wood, well screwed together, and painted inside and outside with red lead, I fixed an indiarubber pipe from the top of the drum to the interior of the steam box through a hole cut in the end, and placed the drum when half-full of water on a gas-stove. After a very short time Page 6 sufficient steam was generated, and conveyed through the pipe to the small timbers lying in the steam box, and after about twenty minutes’ steaming, one end of the box was removed, and the timbers withdrawn as required. These were then found to be quite pliable, and whilst hot, were bent round into position corresponding to the temporary building sections; they were then tied to temporary longitudinal battens, running fore and aft, the battens being ultimately replaced by the strakes, which were finally screwed to the timbers. About 2000 screws were used altogether. The gunwales are of American oak, 1 in. square; the keel, which runs inside the ribs, is of English oak, 24 ins. by 1 in.; the strakes are of mahogany, 1/4 in. thick, sawn into strips 2 ins. wide; the deck is one piece of American whitewood, whilst the masts, bowsprit, booms, &c, are of lancewood, as great strength is required to withstand the heavy strain at sea. Rigging The mainstays, forestay, bowsprit stays and topmast stays are all made of fine galvanised wire of various thicknesses. The port and starboard runners, topmast back and forestays, and the running tackle are made of strong sealine, as, owing to the action of seawater, it is absolutely necessary to have all tackle and rigging of a suitable kind. It is most important that in such a model the hoisting tackle and running gear must be so arranged that all sails can be hoisted, trimmed and lowered in the shortest possible time. Furthermore, it is necessary to have rather stouter and more rigging than is usual for the ordinary class of models —in fact, the gear must be practically the same as on a large cutter. The hoisting tackle of the mainsail and head sails call for no special comment; but that for the topsail has to be specially arranged in such a manner that one must be able to quickly hoist or lower it whilst sitting in a rowing boat. Fig. 1 will explain how this tackle is arranged : A1, A2, A3 are holes made through the top mast. A1 being just above the topmast stay. Through these holes three lines are run, one end of each line being tied to the top-sail yard, the other end passing through a three-sheaved block B, terminating, respectively, at the bowsies C, D, E, through which each is adjusted. From the block B runs a line F, which is made fast to cleats on the Fig. 1. Rigging of Model Yacht, Hilda. Page 7 deck, consequently, after having adjusted the topsail boom to the mast by means of the bowsies C, D, E, the pulling of F simultaneously tightens the three ropes and holds the yard close to the mast. It is necessary to have three definite tightening bowsies, as the top-mast boom has a great tendency to come away from the mast. The sails are made of genuine sailcloth of the finest make, which, after a great deal of trouble, I succeeded eventually in obtaining from Scotland. In making the sails care must be taken that the selvage always forms the leach, and I should advise anyone previous to cutting out such large sails to first chalk the outline of the deck, masts, spars, &c., on the floor of an empty room, full size, so that their dimensions and various angles may guide for the accurate cutting out of the sails. As will be seen from the sketch, the foresail and jib sheets, the part and starboard runners, and other tackle where adjustments have to be carried out, are worked by bowsies, and in this respect I would strongly recommend these to be made of bone or ivory, as salt water causes wooden ones to swell to such an extent that it is often impossible to get the tackle to run freely. The position of these bowsies is also shown in the sketch, and should be particularly noted. Unless the blocks are fitted with sheaves, and these work smoothly, they are better dispensed with altogether, as there is nothing more annoying than to have a rope jamming in the block owing to a stiff sheave. All the standing rigging should be of wire fixed to the deck by means of tightening screws. The castings of these I made myself, and finished them up afterwards in the lathe. They are somewhat similar in form to the large swivels used for salmon fishing, but, owing to their size—viz., 2 1/2 ins. long—have to be specially made. Steering Gear This is a most important item. In a sea boat cf this description it is obviously not possible to raise the stern out of the water every time for the purpose of adjusting or fixing a special rudder for running, consequently the rudder itself must be weighted and the tiller-head must be able to be thrown out of gear in a moment from the deck, so as to allow the rudder to run free for running. There is nothing more trying to the temper in a model yacht than to have the tiller making a large segment of an arc across the plane of the deck, getting in the way of the main sheet and other tackle and altering her course. This invariably happens in the case of a raking sternpost. With a straight sternpost the tiller lies parallel to the deck, and makes a simple circular movement, allowing of easy adjustment. There are certain ways of overcoming this arc-like movement of the tiller, but the system which I have adopted on the Hilda has been devised by a young engineer, Mr. G. Rhodes, and I believe is quite unique. It has the special and very important advantage of enabling the tiller to be instantly thrown in and out of gear from the deck without scarcely touching the boat, and also of adjusting and fixing it to any desired angle, besides always allowing the tiller to be parallel to the deck. A description of this steering gear, with sketch, will be supplied by the inventor in a separate article. Should any of your readers at the seaside wish to go in for building a large model yacht, I shall be pleased to give them every information both as to the best kinds of materials which should be used, and where these can be obtained. With regard to my model, as already stated, she was not constructed for a racing craft; but notwithstanding this, her speed is such, that in a light wind it requires a good oarsman to keep up with her. When Page 8 running with a good wind and current in her favour, it has taken the united efforts of two of us to keep up with her, and in one case it was only after an hour’s hard rowing that we were able to catch her. H. M. Savage (1903) Steering Gears For Model Yachts The steering apparatus of a model yacht has probably given rise to more experiments than any other gear connected with the boat. The building itself follows more or less a beaten and well defined track. The making of the sails depends principally on the skill and practice of the craftsman ; but the steering would appear to be always open to some new trial. This is the more extraordinary when it is remembered that in some parts of England (the North in particular) the rudder is entirely dispensed with, excepting perhaps when running before the wind. In many instances the use of the rudder is wilfully abased, due to the fact that the centres of effort and lateral resistance are wrongly placed, or else that the sails are not properly set for the desired course. As a consequence, the boat requires constant weather helm to keep her straight; result, loss of speed. It should always be borne in mind that the rudder, excepting when in the same fore and aft line as the keel, tends to check the speed of a boat; and in consequence it should be the aim of every model yachtsman to so set his sails, and balance the centres, as to dispense with this dragging tendency as much as possible. The uses of a rudder on a real sailing boat may be summed up thus: 1. To put her about; 2. To check divergence from course, due to a foul or free puff of wind ; 3. To alter course ; 4. To prevent collisions. So far as the model yachtsman is concerned, Nos. 1, 3, and 4 do not enter into the question at all; and there only remains to be found the best means to meet the requirements of No. 2. In opposition to the “no rudder” class there are the advocates of many contrivances worked from the main- sheet and by india-rubber bands, which are intended to answer the purpose of a controlling hand at the tiller. A description of these various plans will be given; but, for simplicity, the common weighted swing rudder holds its own with the best of its opponents. The swing rudder has stood the test of many years’ trial, and, from its introduction, when the owner had to carry a complete set of different sizes in his pocket to the present day, when only two, or even one, are needed, it has always answered its purpose. Small alterations and additions have been made for preventing a jibe, and for getting back to the original course if thrown off by any external cause; but the original idea still remains the same. It will, doubtless, be admitted that a perfect steering gear to meet every change of circumstances is a practical impossibility; but it is truly surprising how near the actual result of a hand at the helm can be obtained by means of automatic storing gears. The shape of the rudder is a point apt to be overlooked by the model yachtsman, and yet this has considerable influence on the sailing of the boat. It should be of such a form as to obtain the best results with the least possible area, and so avoid excessive frictional surface and loss of speed. Further, its area should be so distributed as to ensure it receiving the pressure of the water to the best advantage. Page 9 A fin boat with the rudder hung on a skeg, or the after fin, requires a different pattern to a keel boat with its rudder on the stern post. The reason for this will be explained as simply and clearly as possible. The modern fin keeler has little under water body, and rather glides over than through the water. It will be seen, then, tha1 the water below the hull is very little disturbed, and the rudder will be moving through water which is passing away aft parallel to the keel of the boat. found that the water will continue to meet the rudder at an angle further and further down, accord­ ing to the fulness of the lower water-lines, as in Fig. 3. In a design, the lines which show the flow of water round the body of the boat to the best advantage are those called the diagonals; and the planking, more or less, naturally falls round the boat in the direction of these diagonals, which therefore should always be put in, if only to fair the drawing. Let an extreme case be taken first. Suppose the hull was so shallow as to practically leave the water entirely undisturbed. On referring to Fig. 1, which represents the sheer and load water line of a very shallow craft in A and B, it will be seen that the water will flow aft in the direction of the arrows, and that it would be necessary to turn the rudder through an angle of 45 degs. for the flow of water to strike its surface at the same angle. Now let the under body be increased so that the water lines immediately below the load water-line would, if produced, cut the head of the rudder, as shown in Fig. 2. In this case the water, instead of flowing aft parallel the the centre line of the boat, comes in a sweep round the quarter and engages on the top of the rudder at an angle; as a consequence, the rudder need not be turned through so large an angle as in Fig. 1 to obtain a striking angle of 45 degs. Continuing this reasoning to the case of a keel boat, it is And now, what has all this theory to do with the shape of the rudder? Harking back to Fig. 1, it is seen that all the pressure of the water runs parallel to the keel, acd therefore, if it is required that the boat should answer the helm quickly and without undue loss of speed, it will be necessary to have a large area of rudder to obtain the necessary pressure, when only turned through a small angle. Further, as at all depths of water the pressure remains in the same direction, the top of the rudder is of equal value as the bot- Page 10 tom; and, therefore, it may be symmetrical for its en ire depth, as is shown in Fig. 4, either A or B. This distribution and decrease of area may be continued in the case of a keel boat until the least possible surface is found which will give the most satisfactory results. The practical side will now be dealt with. As before mentioned, the old idea was to have a set of weighted rudders to suit various strengths of wind and directions of course. Nowadays the set consists usually of only two, the common patterns of which are shown in Fig. 7 (A and B). These diagrams are shown half “full size,” as suitable for a 10 rater of 36-40 ins , L.W.L. The width through the larger should be about 1/4 in., not more than 3/8 in. Taking Fig. 2 it can be argued that the water directly below the L.W.L. is of most use for obtaining the pressure, and therefore it will be advisable to put as much area as possible at the head of the rudder, and an outline as in Fig. 5 will be found to give the best results. In the keel boat, Fig. 3, the water is of use right down the stern post, and the area of the rudder can be spread out as is shown in Fig. 6. Bearing in mind the fact that a large rudder turned to an excessive angle with the keel retards the speed, the arguments used maybe summed up thus For a very shallow bodied fin boat the rudder should be of large area and fairly symmetrical in shape ; as the body of the boat increases in depth, the area may be decreased and spread out, so that its largest surface is situated where the flow of water will strike it at the greatest angle with the centre line of boat. The smaller of them is generally made of a piece of brass plate, in the centre of which is a ball of lead (c) running on a threaded axle. This rudder is used (if one is necessary at all) on a wind ; when the lead ball ) is screwed up as far forward as possible. As the wind comes more abeam, the ball is run aft, until it is found to be of not sufficient power, when it is unshipped and the larger one substituted. Practice alone can tell the owner when this change is necessary. The larger type is constructed of two pieces of brass securely held together on pieces of hard wood (d). The after edge is left open to receive various pieces of lead, according to the weight required. Remember that a model is usually measured for rating with the heaviest rudder shipped. Page 11 In making such a rudder, the angle of the bottom must be sufficient to prevent the possibility of the leads falling out en voyage. These two rudders should answer every condition of weather; but there are further appliances to be added to make them more complete. The following additions could be made to any of the swinging rudders given later on, and will not, therefore, be referred to again. Very often, on starting a model on a run from the edge of a pond with the boom squared well off, there will be an absence of wind, due to trees in the background, or to spectators watching the start. If a fairly heavy rudder is shipped to suit a possible strong breeze in the middle of the sailing ground, the chances are that the boat will jibe before well under way. There is a very simple cure for this misfortune. On the after edge of the rudder is placed a small screw-eye (see Fig. 7, b). From this ring a cord is led round the weather side of the quarter, viz., opposite to the boom, and is attached to the mast just above the gaff jaws. It should be just slack enough to not interfere with the rudder swinging well to leeward. Nov:, suppose the boat jibes, the boom flies over and engages with the cord, the cord pulls the rudder hard over, and at once brings the model round until she jibes back again and is off on the original course. boat has just been sent off. The dotted line shows the cord. In B she has jibed, and it does not need to be pointed out that, with the strong weather helm given, the stern and bow will swing round, as shown by the dotted lines. The result will be that she will jibe again to the original course, as shown in A. Another misfortune may be a collision when beating to windward, the result of which is to throw the boat on the opposite tack. Here again the remedy is quite an easy matter. On each side of the stern post, fin, or rudder itself, are screwed small pieces of brass, which can be twisted round to lie parallel to the L.W.L., see Fig. 7 ( a ) . When starting on a certain tack, twist round that piece of brass which is on the weather side of \ he boat. Now when she is knocked on to the opposite tack the rudder will not swing over, but remain in a straight line with the keel. If then some weather helm were actually required to Fig. 8 will explain the routine. In A the Page 12 keep her on this new tack, she should fly up to the wind and go about at once, owing to the absence of any rudder working. This power to tack may be further helped by hitching a short line from the boom to deck, so that when on the wrong tack the boom is held almost amidships. On no account do the same to the headsails, as the result would be anything but satisfactory. The mainsail would be trying to help her round, whilst the flat headsail would be fighting against the mainsail. The consequence would probably be that the beat would make continual efforts to go about and each time fail, making little or no headway. A diagram, Fig. 9, will help the novice to appreciate this wrinkle. It was said that the headsails should not be held amidships when on the wrong tack. A further advantage would be obtained if the sheets of these headsails were attached on deck to the weather side ; then, when the boat went about by mistake (as in B), they (the headsails) would be flying loose, and could not prevent the mainsail from doing its duty in putting her back to the original tack (A). This is shown in Fig. 9. The intention of this article was to deal with steering gears for model yachts; but it is no use pretending to tackle the question, unless the theory and working of a rudder is more or less understood. Craving pardon for the amount of “cackle,” the other gears referred to will now be treated. The first variation of the ordinary swing rudder, already described, is one which is permanently attached to the stern post or fin, but which depends upon a tiller on deck for its control. This is shown in Figs. 10 and 10a. In its simplest form there is merely the lead weight adjustable along the tiller, which should be square or rectangular, and be held firm by a screw passing through the top of the lead, or an alternative plan would be to have the tiller drilled through (from top to bottom) along its entire length, and the lead through the centre, the latter being held in position by a pin running through both. These holes are shown only on the deck plan of Fig. 10a. Both plans are shown on the same page. There are objections to this method, the most important being the fact that there is a heavy weight considerably above the L.W.L. In a model, where every pound of weight on the keel is of use, this top hamper becomes a serious matter. Then again, unless the stern post is perpendicular, it will be necessary to have a forked joint at the tiller head, and, having this, it follows that the after end of the tiller must be supported in a guide; otherwise the lead will drop, and rest on deck. Its advantage lies in the fact that only one rudder is required, the necessary leverage for running before the wind being obtained by a long tiller with the lead run out to its extreme after end. The “prevent jibing” contrivance can well be fitted to this type ; the cord running from the mast being attached to the after end of the tiller. Another species of steering gear can be referred to as the “triangle” gear. It must be admitted that this class is good, in so far as it entirely dispenses with weights. The tiller is controlled by the main sheet, and a very simple form is shown in Fig. 11. The tiller, and hence the rudder, can be given any required amount of play by altering the position of the pin running down the rack in the triangle. There is, however, the same objection to it as in the previous kind, with regard to the necessity of a perpendicular sternpost; and even if this post is perpendicular, it is absolutely necessary to have a holding down guide at the after end of the “triangle”; and, moreover, if by chance it comes on to blow harder than was expected, it is impossible for the rudder to be carried more to leeward to check the luffing propensities which at once follow. Variations of this triangle were given in The Model Page 13 Engineer of July, 1899, September, 1899, and February 1st, 1901 ; but each of them were open to this fault. This might be remedied by having an elastic band of sufficient strength, which would only give play in the heavier puffs; but elastic has a nasty tendency of rotting when wetted, and it would probably require more adjustments on race day to obtain the necessary strength than could be indulged in by the owner. Taking it all round, therefore, it seems very hard to beat the first-mentioned rudder, which, with its few extras as described, can always be relied on and will answer the slightest extra pressure of wind on the sails by swinging over to leeward and so keeping the boat on a straight course. A wire spring running on the holding- down guide might solve the difficulty of the triangle gear; this is a suggestion which some enthusiasts might feel disposed to give a trial. Nuts on a threaded guide could be adjusted to give the required strength to the spring. Or, a belter arrangement would probably be to use a small piece of cork jammed between the deck and guide. This would give freer play to the ring at the end of the sheet by dispensing with the thread, which would, in time, wear away by the continual friction. W. H. Wilson-Theobald (1903) Steering Gear for Model Yachts The many interesting articles that have appeared in The Model Engineer on the construction of model yachts—more especially the instructive and able articles contributed by Mr. Wilson Theobald—have been most valuable aid to those who follow this pastime. In most of these articles, however, the very important matter of steering a yacht has generally been passed over with but a few cursory remarks, and until Mr. Wilson Theobald’s special article dealing on this question appeared in one of your recent is- sues, I had been vainly looking forward to some contribution, which would explain to your readers the best way of steering a model by means of the rudder and tiller. The matter of properly steering a model is not by any means so easy as it looks; to so manipulate the sails and steering that the little craft can keep a correct course for, say, a mile, is a difficulty which must have presented itself to those who have sailed models on large sheets of water. Mr. Theobald has dealt with this question of steering so ably in his article that I feel there is not much left to say; but there still remains a factor, and a most important one, which he has not taken into sufficient consideration, namely, the upward pressure of the water at the counter acting on the rudder and affecting the steering power. Now it is obvious that when a yacht is sailing in a smooth sea, with but little angle of inclination, the forces exerted on the rudder are exactly described in his diagrams; but alter the angle of inclination of the boat, and it will be apparent that the greater the angle the less is the pressure exerted by the water on the rudder, and consequently the less the power of steering afforded by it. Now, this tendency to lose power is increased by the upward pressure of water leaving the counter, so much so that careful observations, which have been made with rudders of various sizes have proved conclusively, that in model yachts, whose angle of inclination is always comparatively greater than that of a large yacht, if constant steering power is desired, it can be best obtained by adopting the shape of rudder suggested in his diagram No. 6, i.e., making the widest part towards the lower end. We all know that the more helm required the less is the speed and the more erratic the course, especially in places where the wind comes in puffs, so that anything which Page 14 conduces to lesser helm without loss of steering power, is a distinct gain in the matter of speed. Another important “desideratum” in a model yacht sailed at sea, is to have such a steering apparatus that it may be immediately thrown in and out of gear from the deck so as to allow the rudder to swing free for “running.” The idea of carrying so many pieces of loose lead in one’s pocket, to be adjusted and fixed as required, is not possible in the case of a yacht of large displacement, so that the rudder must be weighted to start with, and must have sufficient weight to allow it to swing with every decided movement of the vessel. In this respect I have found that if the lead is put on in the form as depicted in Fig 6, A and B, the best results are obtainable— i.e., the lead should increase in bulk and be greatest at the after end of the rudder, as at A. This having been done, the next thing is to devise a steering gear capable of being adjusted to a nicety on deck and kept firm and rigid in any position, also of being able to be instantly thrown out of gear for running, and, as soon as the vessel is put about, of giving her precisely the same degree of helm as she had on her original course. segment of a circle parallel to the deck; but let the stern post be raking, as they all nearly are in finkeel boats, it will be noticed that the tiller describes three distinct and separate movements—viz. (l) segment of circle, having its centre the rudder post centre; (2) segment of an arc above the plane of the deck at right angles to the rake of the stern post; (3) a rotary movement on its own axis, with the result that with a straight tiller, when no helm is given, the tiller rises considerably above the deck, gets in the way of the mainsheet or boom, and is as likely as not to either get wrenched off or moved out of position. I venture to think that in the system which I have devised, and which for the first time has been adopted in Mr. Savage’s large model cutter, Hilda, all these disadvantages have been overcome, and that not only have we a steering gear adjustable to a nicety, but one in which the tiller can be immediately thrown is and out of gear, the rudder left entirely free for running; and the tiller can be engaged again in its original position, the whole manipulation occupying a few seconds. I have also combined with it the graduated helm given by the triangle system, which his already been explained in The Model Engineer; so that if any of your readers will care to construct a gear in accordance with my specifications, I think hey will find it practical, effective, simple, and strong. Now, with stern and post at right angles, or nearly so, to the deck, this is not very difficult: as the tiller simply describes the Page 15 The following description may facilitate your readers to understand the working drawings, which are half full size and applicable to a 10- or 20-rater, with a stern post at any angle to the deck. It is, of course, presumed that the rudder is weighted and fixed to the stern post, or fin, by pins, the rudder-shaft being also fixed to the rudder, and running through a tube under the counter to the deck. called “guides,” and are likewise slotted to receive the tiller E, so that when the tiller is “in gear” the three slots are in one and the same straight line. Fig. 1 shows the gear in elevation. A is the rudder-shaft fixed into a slotted ball B, and held in position by means of a pin; the slot in B is broad enough to allow the tiller E, which works on a pin at C, to engage the ball B. Fig. 4 is the under disc, which is affixed to the deck by means of the screws shown at H, and one of which appears at D, in Fig. 1. To throw the tiller E out of gear, all that is necessary is to lift it in the direction of the dotted line M, when it could make a complete half circle and lie backwards on deck ; in this position the ball B rotates freely on its own axis within the inner circle B, shown in Fig. 2. C is a slotted disc, which revolves upon an under disc D, and is made adjustable by means of two milled head set-screws passing through the under disc D at the holes D1, D2, so that by tightening or loosening the screws the upper disc C can be rotated in any direction or fixed as desired. C1 and C2 are two pieces of brass soldered on to the upper disc C These are It will be seen, therefore, that the ball which revolves inside the discs, allows the tiller to be moved from side to side whilst laying in the same plane to the deck. Fig. 5 shows the gear in cross-section. Now, should it be required to utilise the “triangle,” all that is necessary is to affix it to the deck, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, when the movement of the tiller can be confined to any angle by means of the pin F; in this case the triangle lies underneath the tiller, and except when being used by means of the pin, is quite independent of the other parts of the gear. Figs. 1 and 5 are drawn half full size, whilst Fig. 6 is one-tenth full size. The thickness of the brass used to make the various parts may be taken from the drawings, and although it may look a somewhat complicated contrivance, yet in practice it is simple and effective, and may be made by any amateur who has a lathe and knowledge of brass working. G. Rhodes (1903) Page 16 US VMYG AND MARBLEHEAD MYC Present 2015 “VINTAGE MODEL YACHTING DAYS” NATIONAL REGATTA September 17 – 20 @ Redd’s Pond, Marblehead, MA Goal: Promotion of V36 and VM Model Yachts! V36 Skippers: Check-In begins Thursday, Sept 17 @ 10AM; V36 Regatta Racing 1 to 4PM Thursday and 10AM to 2PM Friday, Sept 18 VM Skippers: Check-In Saturday, Sep 19 @ 9AM; VM Regatta Racing 10:30AM to 3:30 PM Saturday and 10AM to 2PM Sunday, Sept 20; Open Sailing Friday, Sept 18, 2:30 to 5PM NOTICE OF RACE Rules: Regatta will be governed by local Marblehead MYC Redd’s Pond racing rules for V36 and VM boats. Eligibility: Models: Racing is open to Vintage 36 (V36) and Vintage M (VM) boats adhering to US VMYG V36 and VM design rules at US VMYG website at www.usvmyg.org Skippers: V36 and VM models need registered sail numbers from VMYG coordinators. Racing Schedule: Thursday, Sept 17 10AM – 12:30PM! 12:45PM 1 – 4PM Arrival / Sailing Practice V36 Skippers’ Meeting V36 Racing (Day 1) Friday, Sept 18 9:45AM ! 10AM – 2PM 2:15PM 2:30 – 5PM V36 Skippers’ Meeting V36 Racing (Day 2) V36 Awards Ceremony Open Sailing Practice Saturday, Sept 19 8:45AM 10:15AM ! 10:30AM – 3:30PM 12:30 – 1:30 PM 6 – 8:30PM Arrival / Sailing Practice VM Skippers’ Meeting VM Racing (Day 1) Lunch Informal Dining @ Local Restaurants 17 Sunday, Sept 20 9:45AM 10AM – 2PM 2:15PM Noon – 1PM VM Skippers’ Meeting VM Racing (Day 2) VM Awards Ceremony Lunch Venue Location: Racing and sailing demo activities will be staged at historic Redd’s Pond in Marblehead, MA by VMYG-Marblehead MYC team September 17-20. There will be lunches at pond-side on two days for regatta skippers, guests and dedicated volunteers. Venue Check-In: Competitors and guests are encouraged to check-in upon arrival at Redd’s Pond to verify entry details. Any changes to racing schedule from the NOR will be provided via email by September 7 to skippers and club officials. Also, check Marblehead MYC website at www.mmyc.us Venue Parking: Participants will find ample parking along the streets abutting the pond. Entry Form: Each skipper will the complete regatta entry form in NOR to include any lunches for guests. Entry forms to be snail-mailed for September 9 deadline along with the total fees due as indicated in the form. Sailing Instructions: As necessary, Local Sailing Instructions will be provided to skippers by the Marblehead MYC upon check-in and/or at the respective skippers’ meeting. Racing Format: Racing will be conducted under the Equal Opportunity Racing System. The race committee will determine number of races each day after considering weather, course and equipment conditions. To constitute the regatta, a total of eight races must be completed. The VM models will be raced together and scored separately for scoring and awards purposes. Scoring: Racing will be scored in accordance with the Low-Point Scoring system, as set forth in Appendix A of the Racing Rules of Sailing. For each eight races sailed, each participant will be allowed one throw-out race with + one point for DNFs and DNSs. Prizes: Trophies will be awarded to the Top-Three finishers in V36 regatta. For VM regatta, the Traditional and High Flyer model designs will each have top-three awards. Measurements: Measurement and class authenticity verification maybe randomly conducted during check-in and registration as determined by Regatta Director. Additional Information: Call or email John Snow at 978-594-8521 or (jsnowj@comcast.net) and John Skerry as alternate at 978-281-7139 or (scanocean@aol.com) Note that John will not be available August 11 – September 4 given family trip to the Philippines. 18 INSTRUCTIONS FOR REGATTA ENTRY FORM (Page 4) Skippers & Guests 1) Please fill-out the design name and sail number for the V36 and VM model you plan to enter. If more than one model to be raced, enter the other design name and sail number on second row. 2) If you have email address, do include it as this will be quickest way to get late-breaking info, such as Local Sailing Instructions and racing schedule changes. Also, check the Marblehead MYC website at www.mmyc.us for any late-breaking news on the 2015 US VMYG National Championship. 3) Basic skipper regatta entry fee is $50. This includes commemorative regatta item, lunches on the weekend and $5 pond fund contribution for Redd’s Pond weeds treatment. Lunches are $10 each as noted in entry form for guests. Cost of guest lunches will be added to the $50entry fee for the total fee due. For each additional boat entered, the fee is $15 as noted on entry form 4) If applicable, fill-in the number of guests and multiply by the respective lunch fee by day on the form. 5) Skippers need to add-up all fees (racing and quest lunches) and enter amount in the “Total Fee Due” box. Make check payable to “John Snow” and send entry with your remittance to: John Snow 8 Summit Avenue, Salem, MA 01970. Submission deadline is September 12. Dedicated Volunteers Dedicated volunteers are primarily those individuals assigned as race committee members. They will receive commemorative regatta item plus free lunches on the weekdays that they are on duty. 19 Entry Form US VMYG and Marblehead MYC 2015 “Vintage Model Yachting Days” National Regatta September 17-20, 2015 Name: ! ! ! ______________________ Number of Boats__________ Address:! ! ! ! City:! ! ! ! __________ State or Country:! ! ! ! Phone: _____________________________ Email:!! DESIGN SAIL # ! ! Pri Freq ! ! ! ___ ZIP:! ! ________________ Freq 2 ! Freq 3 #1 #2 ____ ! Fees $50 $15? Mail Total Fee Due (one or more boats) plus Saturday guest costs in check payable to “John Snow” Lunch to meet September 12 deadline: John Snow Sunday 8 Summit Avenue, Salem, MA 01970 Lunch 978-594-8521 & jsnowj@comcast.net Guest ___ x $10 = Guest ___ x $10 = Alternate Contact: John Skerry, 26B Vine Street Gloucester, MA 01930 978-281-7139 & scanocean@aol.com Notes: 1) Skipper $50 entry fee includes race entry, weekend lunches, commemorative item and club pond fund contribution. 2) Second boat entry fee is $15. Number of Guests ___ (Guest costs are added to skipper costs) Total Fees Due In consideration for accepting this entry, I hereby, for myself, heirs, executors and administrators, waive and release any and all rights to claim damages that I or my family may have acquired against the sailing site, owners, employees, agents, representatives or assigns, of the US Vintage Model Yacht Group, American Model Yacht Association, Marblehead MYC and their members during this regatta and related pod-side events. Signature:! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Date:! ! ! 20