The Model Yacht: Volume 24, Number 2 – Summer 2023 (Fittings)

The Model Yacht F ittings Journal of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group Volume 21, Number Journal of the US Vintage ModelThree Yacht Group Volume 24, Number Two Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Summer 2023 US VMYG Leadership President: John Y. Stoudt*, jstoudt309@gmail.com…………………………………………………………………..(610) 316-8695 President Emeritus: John Snow, jsnowj@comcast.net………………………………………………………………..(978) 594-8521 Treasurer: Tom Alessi*, usvmygt@gmail.com…………………………………………………………………………(610) 566-9504 Secretary: Chuck Lage*, chucklage@yahoo.com………………………………………………………………………(484) 682-3091 Journal Art Director: Bruce Richter, richterbruce@gmail.com……………………………………………………(917) 575-2221 Journal Editor: Jeff Beck*, beck.jeff@gmail.com……………………………………………………………………..(240) 252-0236 Editorial Staff: John Henderson, jgnhenderson@gmail.com……………………………………………………….(443) 282-0277 Ken Young*, youngrun@sbcglobal.net……………………………………………………………..(630) 957-7490 Gudmund Thompson, gudmund.thompson@gmail.com…………………………………….(613) 852-0648 Webmaster: Gregg Heimer, gheimer@yellowblueit.com……………………………………………………………(610) 960-2185 Membership: Tom Alessi, usvmygt@gmail.com……………………………………………………………………….(610) 566-9504 Regatta Coordinator: Nick Mortgu, mortgu@comcast.net………………………………………………………….(609) 820-0509 Awards Coordinator: Rob Dutton, edwin653@aol.com.mortgu@comcast.net………………………………(703) 608-8812 Resources Coordinator: John Y. Stoudt, jstoudt309@gmail.com…………………………………………………(610) 316-8695 Plans Coordinator:………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….Currently Open Historian: Earl Boebert, boebert@swap.com…………………………………………………………………………….(505) 823-1046 Boat Identification: Mike Denest, mjd12k@yahoo.com………………………………………………………………(610) 316-3570 Boat Yard Coordinator: Cliff Martin, c_martin5@comcast.net…………………………………………………..(508) 533-5971 Construction Advice: John Henderson, jgnhenderson@gmail.com………………………………………………(443) 282-0277 Jeff Gros, Jeffreygros48@gmail.com………………………………………………………….(630) 673-2201 Social Media: Chuck Lage, chucklage@yahoo.com…………………………………………………………………..(484) 682-3091 Model Yacht Data Set: Jim Freeze, jrfreeze1@comcast.net,……………………………………………………….(484) 402-3550 Class Coordinators Free Sailed: John Fisher, jfisher577@gmail.com……………………………………………………………………….(719) 651-0762 Intl A Boat: Mike Denest, mjd12k@yahoo.com………………………………………………………………………..(610) 316-3570 Schooner: Tom Alessi, usvmygt@gmail.com……………………………………………………………………………(610) 566-9504 Skipjack: John Henderson, jgnhenderson@gmail.com……………………………………………………………….(443) 282-0277 Unrestricted: John Henderson, jgnhenderson@gmail.com………………………………………………………….(443) 282-0277 Vintage 36: Rob Dutton, edwin653@aol.com……………………………………………………………………………(703) 608-8812 Vintage Marblehead: Colin Parker, captcparker@yahoo.com……………………………………………………..(410) 404-3093 Vintage Power: Peter Kelley, pdkelley@sympatico.ca………………………………………………………………..(905) 301-9977 Regional Coordinators Australia:………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………Currently Open Canada: Gudmund Thompson, gudmund.thompson@gmail.com………………………………………………..(613) 852-0648 European Continent:……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….Currently Open Mid Atlantic: Scott Todd, dscotttodd63@gmail.com………………………………………………………………….(410) 310-2453 North Central: Ken Young*, youngrun@sbcglobal.net……………………………………………………………….(630) 957-7490 North East: Cliff Martin, c_martin5@comcast.net…………………………………………………………………….(508) 533-5971 North West: Brian Schneider, schneider560@gmail.com……………………………………………………………(207) 715-2644 South Central:………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………Currently Open South East: Phil Ehlinger, philair41@gmail.com………………………………………………………………………(386) 383-8415 South West: Ernie Mortensen, usvmygsw@gmail.com………………………………………………………………(858) 525-5217 United Kingdom: Graham Reeves, graham@reevesmail.co.uk………………………………………………..+44 151 936 1140 *Denotes US VMYG board members i Summer 2023 The Model Yacht The Layline The Model Yacht is published three times per year by the US Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1989 to 2023 by the US VMYG. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Other copyrights are maintained by the original holders, and such material is used here under the fair use provisions of the relevant copyright acts for nonprofit research and educational purposes. Editorial Address: John Stoudt 309 Sundance Drive Chester Springs, PA 19425 On the Cover: Closeup of labeled fittings on a set of vintage sloop plans. Membership Renewals: The annual membership fee will be due and should be renewed with the publication of the first journal of the calendar year. Please reference the “Join” page at https://usvmyg.org/join/ for membership information. Requesting a sail number: The easiest way to request a sail number is to go here: https://usvmyg.org/ registration/ Then click on the class of the boat you wish to register and get a sail number for. A form will open. Complete the form, pay the fee, and everything will happen automatically. You will receive a number, issued by the class coordinator. The US VMYG is a 501(c)(3) corporation. By John Stoudt Definition: A layline is a straight line (or bearing) extending from the next mark to indicate the course a boat should be able to sail on the one tack in order to pass to the windward side of the mark. (vsk.wikia.com/wiki/Layline) The Journal We are always looking for ways to improve the journal. This issue is focusing on fittings. We realize that fittings are getting harder to find. If you do have a source, the fittings can be pricey. A number of individuals have been making their own fittings and improving on the design to make them easier to construct and more efficient. We hope you enjoy the issue and try to make some of your own fittings. Our next issue will feature building and restoration stories. We are looking for suggested features for future issues. Let us know if you have an idea. If you are working on a boat, building it from scratch, or doing restoration work on one, write it up and take some high-quality photos. Send them in. If you are worried about your writing, our editorial staff can assist you. Our members love to read about what you are doing. 2023 National Championship Regatta Series The United States Vintage Model Yacht Group National Championship Regatta series will be sailed October 13–15, 2023, at the Tel Hai Camp and Retreat Center, 1101 Beaver Dam Road, Honey Brook, PA 19344. If you have not registered yet there is still time. The event is hosted by the Chester Springs Model Yacht Club. More information (NOR) may be found here: https://usvmyg.org/wp-content/ uploads/2023/02/USVMYG-2023-NOR.pdf You may register on-line through this link: https://form.jotform.com/ 220725598101958 1 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Inside The Leadership Team……….i The Layline…………………1 Inside………………………..2 Membership Report..……… 4 2022 Financial Report………5 2023 Membership Survey….6 Leadership Take a look at our leadership page. We have a few vacancies. If you would like to fill one of them, let us know and we will provide you with information about the position. The NW regional coordinator’s position has been filled by Brian Schneider who lives on Bainbridge Island in Puget Sound. Recently, Ivor Walton resigned from his position as Plans Coordinator. Ivor did an amazing job getting that important part of the website up and running, from identifying and organizing plans that meet our criteria, to digitizing and validating each plan, and sending them in for uploading. Thank you, Ivor. If you are interested in filling this vacancy, please get in touch with me. We are looking to fill some vacant positions, including the plans coordinator and the following regional positions: Australia, Europe, and South Central. T-shape Brass for Various Fittings…………………….12 Tools and Materials for Making Metal Fittings.……15 Fairleads…………….……..17 Gooseneck Attachment Bracket…………………….20 A Simple Mast Step On Deck.………………………24 Turnbuckles.………………26 Constructing a Control Arm………………………..30 Addressing Sail Arm Friction…………………….33 Rudder Connecting Rod…..34 The Model Yachting Center (TMYC) You should have received a brochure by mail discussing the funding raising campaign undertaken by the US VMYG and the AMYA to solicit startup funds for the feasibility study, creative development and additional fundraising strategies. If you would like to read more you may do so here: https:// usvmyg.org/tmyc/ It is important to note that the AMYA is partnering with us. We have been receiving contributions ranging from $100 to $5,000. We are still trying to reach our goal and need your support. If you have not contributed yet and would like to do so, please click on the donate button below. This will take you to the donation page. WE NEED YOUR SUPPORT! A special thank you to those who have contributed thus far. We have collected roughly $10,000 of our $150,000 goal to date. This may be the most significant thing to ever have occurred in model yachting. It is a way to preserve the past and ensure the future of our sport. It occurred to me while presenting this concept to the AMYA board that this has the potential to truly grow our pastime. You may also go to usvmyg.org and click on the GIVING button. 2 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Artifacts With interest in The Model Yachting Center increasing, we are being asked if we will accept gifts of artifacts, such as boats, magazines, vane gears, etc. Sure, BUT please be aware we do not have a place to store much of this stuff, yet. Nor do we have the funds to rent storage space. As the donations for TMYC increase, we will have more flexibility and be able to accept more physical artifacts. So, please, before you put that A Boat on a box and ship it, contact either myself (usvmyg.tmyc@gmail.com) or Chuck Lage (chucklage@yahoo.com). We will discuss how to proceed with you. Sailing Sites (ponds in the US) One of our members who responded to our survey asked if we could provide a list of locations in the US where there are sailing ponds (including free sailing locations) beyond the club listings. Well, this is an interesting request. There are only a couple of locations where free sailing is still done, mostly on the west coast in California. As far as ponds that are not listed: Where to start? The club that I sail with is sailing at their fifth location. We find a new one, sail on it for a few years, then we lose it and have to find another. Some clubs are more fortunate. So, if you know of a sailing location that is not a regular location, let us know where it is with an address or map coordinates. If there is a contact person, send that along as well. We will compile them and make the list available. Volunteers Needed! The US VMYG needs two individuals to head up two important activities for the group: the development of the model yacht database and chairperson of the membership committee. If you are interested, please contact John Stoudt directly for more information and/or to volunteer. (610) 316-8695 or jstoudt309@gmail.com 32 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Website Updates If you have not checked the website lately here is what’s new: • Information about The Model Yachting Center • The membership portal (coming soon). • Changes to our leadership team. We have added: o NW regional coordinator – Brian Schneider o A second individual to offer construction advice – Jeffery Gros o A boat identification expert – Mike Denest o New V36 and VM coordinators – Rob Dutton and Colin Parker • We have added leadership team mug shots. Check it out. Hover over a picture and click on it. Scary don’t you think? • A giving page where one can make donations to TMYC. • More articles under the “Articles” menu. • Sail number templates under the “Classes” menu. Membership Report Report by Tom Alessi, Membership Secretary 4 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 2022 Financial Summary Report by Tom Alessi, Treasurer US VMYG Working Capital Income and Expenses: 1. Total Income: 2. Total Expenses: 3. Carry over from 2021 4. Net Income (Loss): $13,383.60 ($5,217.11) ($1,425.13) $6,741.36 Cash on hand (31-Dec-2021): $17,217.36 Working Capital: (Cash on Hand + Net Income) = $23,958.72 Budget (Actual) The Model Yachting Center (TMYC): Income and Expenses: 1. Income (Donations): 2. Expenses (Promotional Material): 3. Net Income (Income – Expenses): $5,000.00 ($318.41) $4,681.59 Total Funds available: (Net Income) = $4,681.59 Budget (Actual) US VMYG: Income and Expenses: 1. Income (Memberships): 2. Income (Goods and Services): 3. Income (Donations): 4. Sub Total (Income): 5. Expenses (Administrative): 6. Expenses (Non-Profit incorporation) 7. Sub Total (Expenses): 8. Net Balance: (Sub Total – Expenses) = $3,786.13 $1,546.33 $3,053.28 $8,385.74 ($3,786.75) ($1,111.95) ($4,898.70) $ 3,487.04 Total Funds Available: (Working Capital – TMYC funding) = $19,277.13 Notes 1. Adjustments from 2021: Payments to vendor(s) for work done in 2021 were not cashed until January 2022. Therefore, the account was credited in 2022. 2. Donations totaling $2,000 were made to US VMYG for the purpose of registering US VMYG as a Non-Profit organization. The unused balance of $888.05 was swept into US VMYG general fund. 5 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 2023 Membership Survey Report Report by John Stoudt The board conducted a survey earlier this year to gather feedback on the US VMYG from its members. In the past, when I conducted surveys through mail, a 10% response rate was considered good. Surprisingly, we only received an 11% response rate to the electronic survey, with only 27 out of 245 members responding. This raises questions about whether members are too busy or perhaps have negative attitudes towards surveys. However, it’s important to note that every opinion counts. Let’s discuss the insights we gained from the responses we did receive. A few things you will notice: • The responses do not always total 27. Responses were not required for every question. • Membership demographics probably contributed to some of the responses we received. • We are a “mature” group that does not necessarily like the “technology stuff”. • We are not communicating as well as we can with our members. • But we do like our vintage model yachts. The findings • 62% of respondents have been members for 5 years or less. How long have you been a member? 26 responses • 74% joined the group because of their love of vintage model yachts. • 14 people like the Journal the most, the website and YouTube page second and Facebook last. • 82% of the members rated our emails a 5 and 18% rated them a 4 on a scale where 5 was “Informative” and 1 was “A noisy distraction”. • 60% thought the emails were just right, and 40% wanted more. • 75% do not look at our Facebook page. The rest visit it from 1–5 times per month. • 19% of the respondents look at their copy of The Model Yacht 5 times per month, 33% look at it 3 times per month, and the rest 2 or fewer times per month. 6 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht • 19% visit the website 5 times per month, 11% visit it 3 or 4 times per month, and the other 70% visit it 2 or fewer times per month. • Our YouTube page gets visited 1–5 times per month by only 35% of members, while 65% do not view it at all. The Journal The members like to see articles in The Model Yacht on: • Construction Techniques (78%) • History (78%) • Building (74%) • Sailing Tips and Techniques (63%) • Racing/Sailing (56%) • Boat Identification (52%) • Gadgets and Gizmos (52%) • Sail Making (30%) 7 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Other topics members are interested in seeing appear in the Journal: • “Pond locations beyond club listings. A country wide registry as submitted by readers. Free sailing locations.” • “Design” • “Specific resources for tools and materials for boat building.” • “The journal is outstanding. That alone is worth membership. Always an interesting read!” • “Out of class historic builds and sailing resources (plans, would like to do Santana but haven’t been able to source info) bought a book on lofting, hard to learn from a book.” • “More on construction – especially modern construction of vintage (style/design) models” The Website Members like to see pages on the website on: • Published Articles (4.1) • Construction Techniques (4) • News (3.9) • History of Model Yachting (3.8) • Boat Yard (3.6) • Class Identification (3.5) • Resources (3.5) • Information on Sailing Techniques (3.5) Other topics members are interested in seeing appear in the Website: • “I repeat my answer above. Same as in the journal.” • “Vender and materials link.” • “Would like to see regional information posted.” • “Videos that individuals would like to see posted include: • “Build, construction, restoration, more, segmented build and repair, running rigging setup, and best practices.” Member Benefits Are you happy with the current benefits? • 96% are happy with the current benefits. • One individual made the following comment: “I am in north/central Oregon, far from any sailing crowd. I belong to US VMYG and AMYA, #6600, to stay in touch”. What other member benefits would you like to see? • Portrait photos of the club’s officers would be a nice touch. How likely are you to encourage others to join the US VMYG? • On a scale of 1 to 5 (highest) the response average was a 4.7. 8 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht What can we do to attract additional members? • • • • • • • • • • “Have west coast events.” “More visibility” “Promote events so you attract the general public and people who have life-size sailboats.” “Mainstream advertising and mainstream events. Expand outside the audience who already know about model yachting. If model yachting is only shared within the knowing public, it will never grow and clearly that’s what we are looking to do. Bring the boats/ activity to the people and don’t wait and hope they find it somehow. Only a very small group of people even know model yachting is. At best 1 in 100 in my experience.” “Frankly, I don’t know. Perhaps outreach to high school teachers either of math, science, or what used to be called industrial arts.” “Include power boats.” “Following up on the students of Bruce’s WoodenBoat School class? Send them one complimentary issue of the journal?” “A courtesy Journal copy” “Add more classes of boats i.e., old Star 45’s, EC12’s etc. A lot of classes made major changes in designs over the years which made early boats obsolete they need a place to sail and are part of the history of are sport, you did it with “M’s”” “Think about canvassing members from western and central regions to see if events held in the West could raise the interest of other builders and sailors to consider joining the group. For some of us, it’s a long way to Pennsylvania.” What would you like to do to help our organization? • • • • • • “At your disposal.” “Whatever you need” “Publicity” “I’m very limited time wise. It would depend on what is required.” “I plan to purchase gift memberships for two relatives this year.” “Not totally sure but I do think it’s essential to reach a young audience. I’d be happy to play a role in instructing or coteaching vintage construction. In my area Western WA. State (Bainbridge Island) there are a few venues who I believe would welcome the activity. Of course, the NW School of Wooden boats and the Wooden Boat Center on Lake Union are a thought. As I stated above, to reach a broader audience, there are also community programs and art/ craft centers around the country who could possibly support the activity.” • “I’ve been a boat model builder for 43 years but almost as a pilgrimage. In 2021, I attended the “build your own pond yacht” class at The Wooden Boat School with Bruce Richter and really enjoyed the class and school as a whole. I realized the importance of learning in a group setting. I’d like to see this sort of activity reach a larger audience.” • “help at regattas” • “I have enough interests that I want no more or less than to be merely a paying member.” 9 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht • “I intend to continue to submit articles and new model designs, and to support the journal editorial function.” • “Attend an event — at least once every few years.” “Send out a list of what needs to be done to pick from?” • “I joined very recently; not quite sure in what capacity I could help.” Would you like to volunteer to help us in any way? 15 responses Wrap Up and Comments The board would like to thank those who responded to the survey. We received some confirming information and a lot of great suggestions. There are also some who have volunteered to help. We will reach out. Comments on the feedback: • Most of the things that you would like to see in the Journal are already being addressed. We will look into ways to find information on pond locations and more information of resources (we do provide some on our website and in the Journal, although they are becoming more scarce all the time). • A member would like to learn how to do lofting and mentioned that it can be difficult to learn from a book. If someone knows of good resources on lofting let us know and we will make them available. WoodenBoat School does offer classes on lofting (https://www.thewoodenboatschool.com/coursesglance/). • We will encourage our regional coordinators to report out about things that are going on in their region. • We have been discussing ways to provide “how to” videos on YouTube on things such as construction techniques, rig building and assembly, and boat set up. This is quite an undertaking and one that we will continue to explore for things such as topics, series, and the production of the same. • Personally, I am not a Facebook follower, although I find our Facebook following fascinating. The interest is high, and the postings are great. We have over 1200 individuals who follow us on Facebook. Few of our members do. Over 50%of the followers are from outside the United States. So that leaves us with a whole lot of individuals who are not members. We have tried to get them to join with little effect. Few AMYA members have joined. They are another source of members. It is an interesting phenomenon. 10 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht • Visibility, promotion and advertising are always on our mind. We have tried numerous things. and have been discussing this with AMYA. They have the same difficulty. They have been looking at yacht clubs and other organizations with limited success. We have begun to add photos of our leadership team to the leadership page of our website. As we receive more we will continue to add them to that page. They can be seen here. (https://usvmyg.org/about/organizational-leadership/). Click on the photo! • The US VMYG have been trying all kinds of strategies to make more individuals aware of our pastime. We reach out to media outlets to no avail. We write articles and send them in, write emails and call and get no responses. The only response is when someone else has a contact and has them contact us. • West coast events, or events in any region for that matter, can be organized with the help of the regional coordinator. They can be reached by phone or email to discuss events in their region. We suggest that you start small and grow the event over time. Reach out to them and discuss the possibility with a local club or just a group of like minded individuals. We will provide contact information of the US VMYG members in that region to assist in the effort. • We have a regatta subsidy program that we can discuss with interested individuals or clubs. • Youth programs have been run throughout the country within and outside of schools. The most visible program was the Detroit school program that ran for over 90 years in the Detroit public schools, recently closing (https://usvmyg.org/history/manual-arts/). These were run in at least four other large school districts over the years. A few individuals are running programs in their area for youth and these vary in nature. In many cases efforts to establish something similar to the school programs is running headlong into the changing academic requirements in our public schools. • While most of our members do not use the website, Facebook, and YouTube a lot of other individuals do. These are promotional tools for the US VMYG. We use them to share what we do and to try and encourage more membership and dialogue about vintage model yachting. • The US VMYG has a vintage power boat coordinator, and we are working with him to develop that aspect of our organization. There is a plan to incorporate that information on the website and into The Model Yachting Center. • The teachers of the model yachting courses at WoodenBoat School stay in touch with their students and encourage their membership in the US VMYG. They also encourage students to write about their experiences and projects. Complimentary issues have been sent to students in the past. • We are cautious about adding more classes of boats that we support for various reasons. We continue to evaluate this and will look into the classes recommended. • The west coast has avid vintage model yacht clubs in some locations. Clubs have come and gone. A quick look at the AMYA clubs in the states in our western regions indicate that there are 35 active clubs, (most in the coastal states) some of which sail vintage model yachts. You can search for those clubs on the AMYA website and come with up with location and club contacts. (https://www.theamya.org/FindaClub.asp) Thanks to all of you who responded to the survey. We have some good information to help us move forward. We encourage you to reach out at any time with ideas, suggestions, and/ or observations. We are interested in improving what we do and growing the US VMYG. 11 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht T ee-shaped Brass for Various Fittings Article by TMY Editorial Staff You can make this “Tee” out of flat brass stock in any length, within the constraints of your equipment. These Tees can be used for making a shroud rack, mast step, mast crane, backstay bracket, and other fittings. Tools • • • • • • • • Aviation shears (snips) Bench vise brake attachment (bending tool) Hand seamer Miniature soldering torch (micro torch) Ruler Small metal clamps or spring-loaded tweezers Small ball peen hammer Soft face hammer Materials • Stay-Brite soldering kit (solder and flux) • K & S Engineering brass strip #247 (.064-inch x ¾-inch x 12-inch) Making the Tees 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Determine how long of a piece you would like to make.It cannot be any longer than the jaw of your bending tool. Cut two pieces of the ¾-inch wide brass strip to that length. Place a pencil mark down the center of each piece. Attach the bending tool to your vise. It comes with magnet faces and attaches and aligns very easily. Place one piece of brass in the bending tool. You can align the brass by holding it in place with the fingers of one hand above and below the fixture. The ¾-inch strip just fits in the fixture without overhang. Using the handle on the vise, turn it until the brass bends to 90 degrees. Repeat the process with the second piece of brass. Piece marked for bending. Piece in bending fixture. 12 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 8. Place the pieces of metal together in the shape of a “Tee”. Check to see that the seam is tight. If not, place both pieces together in the hand seamer and squeeze the handles of the hand seamer. Check the shape. You may have to use the ball peen hammer on the top of the pieces, hitting them at the same time to get a tight joint between the two “L” shapes. You can reverse the edges in the hand seamer and repeat to straighten the other sides. 9. Now place the assembly into small metal clamps or spring-loaded tweezers. Make sure the pieces line up and are tight and straight along the bent edges. Don’t worry if the legs (the edges away from the bent edges) do not line up quite right now. This can be cleaned up later. You may have to use more than one clamp/tweezers. 10. Take the assembly apart and apply the StayBrite flux to both mating faces and re-clamp for soldering. Be careful applying the flux; be neat. If you are sloppy with the flux, the solder will run into all of the areas where the flux cleaned the metal. 11. Insert the end of the clamping device into a vise or secure it in some other way. Check the alignment. 12. Cut two pieces of the hard solder that comes in the StayBrite package the same length as the seam to be soldered. Straighten these out. 13. Carefully place them on the top of the seam. (see the photo) 14. Using the micro torch, heat the brass from below with a sweeping motion. This will heat the brass up evenly. Once the brass is up to temperature, the solder will flow into the joint. You do not need to apply the heat on the solder. You are sweating it into the joint. Capillary action will do the work for you. 15. As soon as the solder “drops” into the joint, remove the heat and blow on the seam until the solder turns dull. The dull appearance means that the solder has hardened. 16. Carefully carry the assembly to a sink in the clamp and run it under cold water. This cools down the assembly and removes most of the deposit from the part. 17. If the pieces of the leg are uneven, the top outside edges will not be parallel as well. You can easily correct this by sanding the edges on a longboard. It will clean up nicely when you layout, cut, sand, and polish your part. 18. You now have one tee shape. “L”-shaped pieces held by clamps with pieces of solder in place. Make as many of these as you need to for the various parts you want for your boat. You can cut and shape these into your parts. See the examples on the following page. 13 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Example: Mast step (old unpolished part). Finished “Tee” shape from above. Example: Mast crane (new part pinned and epoxied into place). Example: Back stay bracket (newer fitting). Example: Jib rack (old unpolished part). 14 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Article by TMY Editorial Staff Tools and Materials for Making Metal Fittings While this is not an exhaustive list, it does provide some suggestions that will make working with non-ferrous (excluding aluminum) materials easier. There are many manufacturers and suppliers of these tools and materials. Use your search engine to find the item online or at a store close to you. Miniature Torch Helping Hands Tool This butane torch is ideal for soldering brass, copper bronze, and even stainless steel. This torch delivers up to 2000°F for soldering. A simple push of the button ignition lets you get to work quickly. The flame is adjustable, and it is easy to refill the gas cylinder built into the torch. Keep your hands away from the heat and hold everything tightly together. This frees up your hands to ensure safe soldering with improved precision and flexibility. You can easily position components where you need them with the alligator clamps that swivel four ways. It comes with two alligator clips, a magnifying glass, and weighted base. 15 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Hand Seamer Automatic Center Punch A 3-inch hand seamer, sheet metal bending tool helps you to bend and flatten sheet metal and non-ferrous metals without the need for heavy duty sheet metal tools. This center punch tool has a springloaded mechanism. You place the point of the tool where you want to make the center punch mark and press down. The spring tension retracts and springs out marking the Spring Loaded Tweezers When you are soldering you often need a way to hold the pieces together while you solder. Along with the “Helping Hands Tool”, these cross-locking tweezers are a great way to clamp the pieces you want to solder. wood, metal, steel, aluminum, brass, copper, and more. Silver Solder This high strength, low temperature silver-bearing solder provides a stronger joint than soft solder. It bonds with all ferrous and non-ferrous alloys except aluminum and forms strong vibration-proof joints. Using the flux provided, the solder flows quickly to penetrate tight clearances. Small Bench Vise This 3-in bench vise attaches quickly to a bench or table top. It can be rotated 360 degrees on its swivel base. You use it for various processes in working the sheet metal for small parts. There is a small flat area behind the jaws that can be used as an anvil surface. K & S Precision Metals K & S makes a large variety of small precision metal shapes including bar, round, tube, square, and other shapes. These shapes come in brass, copper, and aluminum. These items can be found in hardware and hobby stores or directly from K & S. Small Ball Peen Hammer This hammer is 9.5 in long with a wooden handle and weighs 4 oz. It is great for shaping non-ferrous metal. Vise Mount Metal Break Small Bench Anvil This attachment mounts magnetically to your bench vise and makes clean bends in sheet metal. It is available in different sizes. This is great for shaping wire, metal, and other items for making small parts. It is made of cast steel, measures 5 ¼ by 2 1/2 by 2 ¼ inches, and weighs 1 ¾ lb (variations will work). 16 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Article by TMY Editorial Staff. Photos from the US VMYG Archives Fairleads Fairleads for vintage model yachts can be very hard to find, and if you do find them, they can be a bit pricey, although beautiful. You can make your own that look good and are functional using hardware store items. Materials (for one pair) • • • • • Tools Two ¼-20 solid brass acorn nuts Four ¼-in brass washers Two pieces of ¼-in solid brass all-thread 2 in long Two ¼-20 solid brass nuts 2 pieces of plywood ¼ in by ¾ in by ¾ in NOTE: For a silver look, use aluminum instead of brass. • • • • • • Metal lathe or drill press 5/64-in and 17/64-in drill bits Countersink Hacksaw Centering square File and abrasive paper It is important that you use solid brass or aluminum parts. The brass all-thread must be an alloy with very little silica in it. If the all-thread has silica in it, it will destroy drill bits. We know from experience. You might want to use a brass or aluminum bolt – don’t. They have a high silica content. These are nearly impossible to drill. Allthread can be found online in alloy form that will be very satisfactory and drill relatively easily. Parts for two fairleads. 17 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Procedure 1. Cut the all-thread long enough to thread into the acorn nut and extend through the deck, king plank, a washer, and far enough to protrude below the deck beams 1/8” to ¼”. 2. Drill the acorn nut and the all-thread. The best way to do this is in a metal lathe. A drill press can also be used with a drill press vice that has a vertical v-slot in it that will hold the pieces plumb for drilling. 3. Find the center of the acorn nut (see sidebar). You may have to file off the little tip (residue) on top of the acorn nut. Parts in a metal lathe ready for drilling. Parts in a drill press vise ready for drilling. 18 Finding the Center of Round Material A center square is a uniquely designed tool that allows you to find the center of a round piece of stock. Place the center square firmly against the side of the round stock and scribe (draw) a line. Rotate the square about 120° and scribe a second line. Do this a third time. The intersection of these lines is the center of the material. Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 4. Thread the all-thread onto an acorn nut and place the assembly in three jaw chuck on a metal lathe or in the vertical v-slot of a drill press vise. 5. Drill a 5/64-in hole through the acorn nut and into the all-thread (just slightly). 6. Remove the acorn nut to allow the metal curls to fall away as you drill the all-thread. 7. Take your time drilling through the all-thread. Drill in about ⅛-in and back the drill out to allow the drill curls to fall away. Allowing them to build up in the hole helps generate a lot of heat and will pull the temper out of the drill bit, dulling or breaking it. DO NOT OVERHEAT THE DRILL BIT! Finished acorn nut. Listen to the drilling process. The drill will tell you if there is a problem. Repeat the process until you are a little more than half way through the all-thread. Flip the all-thread and continue until the hole is through. Finished all-thread shaft. 8. On both ends of the all-thread and the top of the acorn nut, use a larger drill bit or a countersink and lightly drill a chamfer on the edge of the hole. 9. File and sand the rough edges at the ends of the all-thread. Completing steps 8 and 9 helps reduce the friction on the sheet lines as they pass through the fairleads. Finished brass fairlead. 10. Drill a 1 7/64 -in hole through the center of the ¼-in plywood. This will be used as a reinforcing piece under the deck. Repeat the process for the other nut and all-thread. With the washers, nuts and all-thread you have a set of fairleads. The fun part is assembling the fairleads on the boat; especially, trying to get your hand into position under the deck to thread the pieces onto the all-thread and tighten the nut. 19 Completed sets of aluminum and brass fairleads. Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Gooseneck Attachment Bracket Article by TMY Editorial Staff This gooseneck attachment bracket accommodates a ball link and a Walton Boom Vang (see article on the website https://usvmyg.org/howto-make-a-boom-vang/). It was designed as a simple way to attach the main boom to the mast and accommodate a very nice boom vang that you can make yourself. Using a readily available heavy duty ball link provides excellent movement for the main boom/sail. And it is strong when completed. Tools • • • • • • • • • • • • Aviation snips Countersink (small) Crimping tool Drill bits: 5/64 in and ¼ in Drill press or hand drill Hammer Miniature torch Ruler Small square Spring-loaded center punch Toothpick Small smooth jaw vise Materials • One piece K & S Precision Metals 8245 brass strip, 0.064 by 0.25 by 12 in (to the right) • 1-hour epoxy (2-part) • Two ⅜-in, #2 round head brass wood screws • Two ⅜-in, #2 flat head brass wood screws • One Du-Bro 2262 4-40 Heavy Duty Ball Link (below) 20 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Plan view. Making the attachment bracket See plan and side views for more clarity. 1. Cut one piece of the brass strip 2 13/16 inches long. 2. Round each end. 3. Measure in ⅛ inch from one end (short end) and center-punch the location of a hole on the centerline. 4. Measure in ¼ inch from this hole and mark the location of the 90-deg bend with a scratch awl and a small square. 5. Measure in ⅜ inch from this bend mark and center-punch the location of a hole on the centerline. 6. Measure in ⅛ inch from the other end (long end) and center-punch the location of that hole on the centerline. 7. Measure in from this hole 5/16 inch and mark the location of the 70-deg bend with a scratch awl and a small square. 8. Measure in ⅜ inch from this bend mark and center-punch the location of a hole on the centerline. 9. Drill all four holes with a 5/64-inch drill bit. 10. Anneal the piece of brass (see the annealing procedure in the sidebar). This will soften the brass bar to enable a better bend. 11. Place the short end in a small vise with the scribed line flush with the top of the vise jaws. Using a small ball peen hammer carefully tap the end over until it is at 90 degrees. 12. Place the long end in a small vise with the scribed line flush with the top of the vise jaws. Using a small ball peen hammer carefully tap the end over until it is at 90-degrees. You will have to take this out of the vise and use a crimping tool to complete the bend to 70 degrees. (see the side view) Side view. 21 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht NOTE: The reason the two ends are different lengths is because when the bends are made you want the centerline of the two holes to line up. This eliminates binding as the rig swings. Attaching the ball link to the forward end of the main boom 1. Drill a slightly oversized hole (larger than the diameter of the barrel end of the ball link) in the end of the main boom, centered side-to-side and slightly above center. Make this hole half of an inch deep. The larger diameter hole will allow you to correctly position the ball link in the hole before the epoxy sets. 2. Insert the ball link into the hole and Bracket ready for bending. make sure it does not stick out too far. It should stop just slightly short of where the barrel end of the ball link stops. Adjust the hole depth if necessary. 3. Scuff up the barrel end of the ball link with a small file or coarse sandpaper. 4. Mix a small amount of 1-hour epoxy (two-part) and work it into the hole. Make sure you fill the hole with a sufficient amount of epoxy. Use a toothpick to work it into the hole. 5. Have a 2-in piece of masking tape ready to hold the ball link in place when you have the ball link positioned in the hole, centered and with the flat side “horizontal”. 6. Insert the barrel end of the ball joint into the main boom, adjust its position, wipe off the access epoxy (being careful not to get any on the ball joint itself), align, and tape it in place. 7. Place the assembly vertically in a vise with the ball end up. Allow it to set for a couple of hours. 8. After the epoxy has cured, carefully clean up any extra epoxy with a small file and/or sandpaper. 9. Drill a 1/16-inch hole as a pilot hole for a ⅜-in #2 flat head brass wood screw horizontally through the main boom into the middle of the ball link. You must drill into the barrel of the ball link as well as the boom. Countersink the hole to receive the head of the screw. 10. Carefully run the screw into the hole until it seats. Use some soap on the screw to reduce the friction. Making an attachment point for the boom end of the boom vang on the main boom 1. 2. 3. 4. Cut a 1 in piece of 1/8-in brass tubing. Compress ⅛ inch of one end with smooth jaw pliers. Round the end. Make a center punch mark in that end. Center in the space. Drill a 5/64-in hole. Vang attachment piece. 22 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Make sure you set the vang in a middle position before locating the tube position on the boom. Lay everything out on your work space in appropriate locations. Locate the bottom center of the main boom where the vang should attach and mark it with a center punch, centered side-to-side. Drill a 1/8-inch hole vertically in the boom where the boom end of the vang will attach. Cut the vang attachment piece to length so that it sticks out from the bottom of the boom about ¼inch. Insert it into the boom. Drill a 1/16-inch hole as a pilot hole for a ⅜-in #2 flat head brass wood screw horizontally through one side of the boom into the brass tube. Be careful as the brass is harder than the wood, and the drill bit will want to drift. Go slowly and with minimal pressure. Countersink the hole to receive the head of the screw. Carefully run the screw into the hole until it seats. Use some soap on the screw to reduce the friction. This is necessary to ensure the security of this piece in the boom. NOTE: It is a good idea to run a stainless screw into the hole first to make “threads” for the brass screw to engage. Back it out and carefully run the brass screw into the hole. Assembly Take care to control all of those small parts. They have a habit of dropping out of your fingers and finding places to hide when they fall off your work surface. Fasten the bracket to the backside of the mast with two 3/8-inch #2 wood screws. If this is for a larger boat, you can always add a third screw when attaching the bracket to the mast. Center the third screw between the other two. Annealing Brass Heat up the piece of brass until it is red hot and then let it cool slowly. You can do this with a small torch. Use needle nose pliers to move it to a spot where you can let it cool. Once the brass has cooled down completely, it will be softer and ready to work. Do not quench the part in water or oil. Place it on a nonflammable surface to cool. Completed assembly. 23 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht A Simple Mast Step On Deck Article by TMY Editorial Staff. Photos from the US VMYG Archives There are two aspects to the mast step on a model boat, the piece that mounts on the deck and the piece on the bottom of the mast that engages that piece on the deck. AJ Fisher had a notched, T-shaped step that mounted on the deck and a round collar that was pinned to the bottom of the slotted mast. This can be replicated but takes some time and skill. There is a simpler combination that includes a ⅛-in plate mounted to the deck and a pin in the bottom of the mast. With the correct rigging, this works well on all types and sizes of model yachts. Materials • ⅛- by 1-in brass bar (available on Amazon) • Two ½-in, #4 flat head brass wood screws Tools • Hacksaw or metal cutting bandsaw • Drill press or electric hand drill • Various drill bits • 82-deg countersink • Center punch • Files, sandpaper, sanding block, or band sander AJ Fisher mast step (circa 1950). 1 7/8 in 5/16-in radius 5/8 in 9/64-in diameter, 5 holes 5/16 in (typical) Dimensions for the mast step. 1/8-in diameter, 82° countersunk to ¼-in diameter, 2 holes Procedure Cut a piece of ⅛-in bar stock ⅝- by 2 ½-in long. Shape the piece by rounding the ends, smoothing the edges, and sanding smooth. 1. Round the ends using a file and sandpaper or a 1-in band sander. 2. Use a sanding board to sand the long edges smooth. 3. Using a foam sanding block, you can round the upper edges and get a nice finish on all surfaces. Shaped and centerpunched mast step. NOTE: If you are using aluminum fittings, substitute ⅛- by 1-in aluminum bar, ⅛-in aluminum rod, and stainless-steel screws 24 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Layout out the centers of the holes to be drilled. 1. Mark off the locations for the pinholes and the screw holes using the dimensions provided on the drawing. 2. Using a center punch mark all of the centers. Drill the holes with two different size drill bits. 1. Drill a clearance hole for the screws in the two end positions. Use a ⅛-in drill bit. 2. Countersink these holes so the head of the screw drops in flush with the surface of the step. 3. Drill the five middle holes using a 9/64-in drill bit. Carefully “round” the top edge of each hole using a larger drill bit. This can be done by rotating the bit between two fingers with the end of the drill bit on the top of each hole. You just want to put a slight bevel at the top of each hole. This will make it easy to engage the pin on the bottom of the mast when you are rigging the boat. Just completed mast step. The Mast The bottom end of the mast gets fitted with a piece of ⅛-in brass rod and lashed to prevent the end from breaking from the pressure placed on the rod. Materials • • • • 1 ⅜ in of ⅛-in round brass rod (K & S Product) 30 in of 80-pound fishing line with an embedded Kevlar fiber Cyanoacrylate adhesive 1 hour 2-part epoxy Tools • 5/32-in drill bit • Electric hand drill Bottom of mast showing pin and lashing. Drill the bottom end of the mast with a 5/32-in drill bit approximately 1 ⅛ in deep. Make sure you keep the drill parallel to the length of the mast in all directions. Rough up the surface of the ⅛-in brass rod and insert it into the hole that has been filled with two-part epoxy. Wipe off any excess epoxy. Use a piece of masking tape to align the pin so it sits straight in the bottom of the mast. Now lash approximately ½ in of the bottom of the mast using the 80-pound fishing line with the embedded Kevlar fiber. Pull the one end so the loose end goes behind the lashing and cut the ends off. Coat the entire lashing with CA and dab dry with a paper towel. This is an extremely strong alternative to fitting a brass collar on the bottom of the mast. This system has been installed on a number of boats and is effective and durable over time. If the boat is rigged correctly the pin will not come out of the mast step. This mast step combination is easier to construct than the AJ Fisher version. 25 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Turnbuckles Article and photographs by TMY Editorial Staff While this is technically not a turnbuckle, it is a good looking and effective way to attach your shrouds to the shroud racks. Finding original fittings is nearly impossible today. Various adaptations have been developed such as using a clevis with a rigging coupler. Fig. 1. Clevis fitted with a rigging coupler. They do not look as nice as an all-brass fitting, but they do work. The article “Turnbuckles and Bottle Screws” (https://usvmyg.org/turnbuckles-and-bottle-screws/) was used as a reference to make this custom “turnbuckle”. Materials • One piece of 0.032- by 0.25- by 1.75-in brass strip (K&S Precision Metals, 8240 brass strip) • One 1-in, 2-56 brass machine screw (hardware store) • One 2-56 brass nut (hardware store) • One gold-plated 2-56 Sullivan Clevis (Amazon) • Hard solder kit (Stay-Brite Silver Solder on Amazon) • Fine grit foam sanding pad (hardware store) Tools • • • • • • • • • Aviation shears Needle nose pliers Small ball peen hammer Small bench anvil Center punch Drill bits (#43 and 1/16-in and one larger one) Miniature torch Drill press or electric hand drill File and sanding board Procedure 1. Measure and mark a piece of the brass strip 1 ¾ in long. 2. Mark the center of the brass strip in both directions and center-punch that point. 3. Drill a #43 hole at that location and debur the hole with a larger drill bit Fig. 2. Marked and drilled hole, deburred. (i.e., ¼ in) 4. Using the Stay-Brite hard solder and a miniature torch, solder a 1-in, 2-56 brass machine screw in place in the hole. 26 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Procedural Note: Make sure to carefully apply the liquid flux with a small brush to the areas you want the solder to flow. Allow the strip of brass to overhang the edge of your workbench for soldering. Or place the brass strip in a spring-loaded tweezers so the strip is horizontal and the bolt is hanging vertically. Then cut a ⅛-in piece of the solder and place it right beside the head of the machine screw. When you heat the metal, the solder will melt and flow to the areas between the machine screw and the brass strip. The flow of the solder into tight areas is called capillary action (see side bar). Fig. 3. Machine screw in position for soldering. 5. Carefully blow on the soldered pieces until the solder goes dull in appearance (the solder has hardened). This will enable you to take the assembly without the pieces flopping about and place it in cold water to remove the carbon deposits. 6. Cut the part from the strip of brass for completion. 7. Bend up the sides of the brass strip with a pair of needle nose pliers. Make sure that you keep the side of the pliers perpendicular with the edge of the brass strip. 8. Working from side-to-side keep bending each side of the strip up until they are parallel to each other. Use the needle nose pliers and a small ball peen hammer to complete this step. Fig. Beginning the bends. The4.Model Yacht Fig. 5. Completing the bends. 27 Fig. 6. Tightening the bends with a hammer. Summer 2023 The Model Yacht 9. Measure half way up one leg of the brass strip and mark that location with a pencil. 10. Take the needle nose pliers and squeeze the strips together at that point marked on the one strip. Procedural Note: You may need to hammer the strips at the bend in order them to close completely on each other. Fig. 7. Closing and shaping the ends of the fitting. Fig. 8. The soldered fitting. 11. Solder the joint between these legs using the hard solder and the miniature torch. Drip flux into the seam between the legs. Clamp the machine screw with the spring-loaded tweezers allowing the bolt to hang vertically and the legs to be at the bottom. Cut a piece of the solder about 5/16 in long and carefully place it in the “V” created by the legs of the brass strip. Heat the joint where the legs come together until the solder “sweats” into the joint. NOTE: The solder joint holding the machine screw to the brass strip will probably soften, so be careful. Carefully blow on the soldered pieces until the solder goes dull in appearance (the solder has hardened). This will enable you to take the assembly without the pieces flopping about and place it in cold water to remove the carbon deposits. 12. If the ends of the strips are uneven, trim them with the aviation shears. 13. Measure in ⅛ in from the end of the strips and mark the center point. Center punch this location and drill a 1/16-in hole and debur the edges of the hole. 14. Shape the end of the brass strips with a slight taper and round the end. Use a file and sanding board to complete this step. (see Fig. 8) 15. Using a sanding block, you can “polish” the brass to a very nice finish without having to buff it. Fig. 9. The parts ready for assembly. 16. Assemble the finished turnbuckle as shown. 28 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht It took the editor about one hour to make four of these fittings. What is capillary action? From Wikipedia: Capillary action (sometimes called capillarity, capillary motion, capillary effect, or wicking) is the process of a liquid flowing in a narrow space without the assistance of or even in opposition to, any external forces like gravity. The effect can be seen in the drawing up of liquids between the hairs of a paint brush, in a thin tube, in porous materials such as paper and plaster, in some non-porous materials such as sand and liquefied carbon fiber, or in a biological cell. It occurs because of intermolecular forces between the liquid and surrounding solid surfaces. If the diameter of the tube is sufficiently small, then the combination of surface tension (which is caused by cohesion without the liquid) and adhesive forces between the liquid and container will act to propel the liquid. In other words, when the soldier liquifies, the soldier itself will be drawn into the joint if you have prepared the mating surfaces well. Just apply a small amount of solder beside the joint that has been fluxed, heat the area to be joined and voilà the solder will wick into the joint. 29 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Article by TMY Editorial Staff Constructing a Sail Control Arm Sail arm layout. Tools This is an efficient, strong sail control arm for R/C sailboats. It is an assembly of an aluminum arm and a servo horn that comes with the servo you intend to use as your sail control servo. There are many usable servos available today. Make sure the one you select to use has sufficient torque for the size of the boat. • • • • • • • • • Band saw (metal cutting) Ruler Electric drill: hand drill or drill press 1-inch band sander or metal cutting file Drill bits: 5/64-in, 3/32-in, and 3/8-in Countersink Center punch Circle template Sanding board, foam sanding block, and Scotch Brite sanding pad Materials • 1/8-in aluminum bar stock long enough for your sail arm. The width depends on the width of your sail control arm. • Double-sided servo horn (comes with the servo. See Photo 1) • The shaft diameter and the spline count are different on every manufacturer’s servos so make sure you choose the correct servo horn. • Two 2-56 ½-in stainless steel flat head machine screws • Two 2-56 stainless steel nuts Photo 1: Assorted servo horns. You must first calculate the length of your sail arm. See John Henderson’s article Setting Up Swing-Arm Sail Controls that can be found on our website at: https://usvmyg.org/setting-up-swing-arm-sail-controls/. 30 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Making the sail control arm 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. Cut a piece of aluminum about one inch longer than the lengths you have calculated using John’s article. Lay out the arm similar to the one in the illustration using the arm lengths you calculated and the servo screw head diameter. Begin the layout by drawing the centerline. Mark the location of the pivot point with a center punch (servo shaft center). This will be somewhere near the center of the arm on the centerline. Measure out in each direction for the mainsail arm side and the jib arm side. Mark each of those locations with a center punch. Using a circle template, draw a 3/8-in diameter circle at each end with the center point as the center of the circle. Measure the diameter of the head of the servo screw that holds the horn unto the servo. (If the screw head diameter is ¼ in, then the hole should be ⅜ in to allow 1/16 in of clearance around the screw head.) Using a circle template, draw a circle ½ in larger than the hole necessary for the servo screw to clear the hole. (If the servo screw hole is ⅜ in, then draw the circle ⅞ inch in diameter.) Draw tangents (four) with a straight edge from the outside edges of the small circles to the outside edges of the large inner circle. You now have your sail control arm ready to cut out. Carefully cut it out on a band saw just outside of the perimeter lines. Using a 1-in band sander or file, sand the edges straight. Sand the long edges on a sanding board to get them smooth and straight. Smooth the edges and round the corners with a foam sanding block. Drill a 5/32-in hole in each end of the arm. Put a very slight chamfer on these holes using a small countersink or drill bit. This helps to reduce fraying of the sheet lines. Drill the servo screw hole that you determined in Step 8 in the pivot location. Debur the edges of the hole with a larger drill bit. Now clamp the servo horn in place over the large hole so the servo horn aligns with the centerline of the sail control arm. Make sure that the two holes are concentric. (See Photo 2). Drill a 3/32-inch hole at each end hole of the servo horn through the aluminum arm. Debur these holes. Countersink the bottom side of each drilled hole on the servo horn to receive the head of the 2-56 machine screw. Clean up the faces of the arm using the Scotch Brite pad. Bolt the servo horn to the aluminum arm by passing the 2-56 x ½-inch machine screws up from the bottom and attaching the nuts from the top. If there is too much screw Photo 2: Servo horn and sail arm holes aligned prior to drilling. sticking up, you can cut off the excess and dress the ends. 31 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Photo 3: The finished sail control arm from below. Servo Horns The servo horns come in various sizes and are shown in Photo 1. Note that the large servo horn has protrusions that stick up and will need to be removed. Do this by filing or sanding. We have found that a sanding board works the best. This is necessary for the aluminum arm to sit flat on the servo horn. 1/16-in versus 1/8-in Aluminum Aluminum sail arms have been made with 1/16-in and 1/8-inch stock. The 1/16-in arms flex during normal use. A 1/8-in aluminum arm will be twice as heavy but will not flex. The weight differential is insignificant; the thicker aluminum is a better option and resists flexing even with larger servos. Reducing Wear on the Sheets If you would like a sail control arm with less friction on the sheets, make the holes in the end of the aluminum arm 3/16-inch. Then follow the process explained in Steven LaBrenz’s article, Addressing Sail Arm Friction, on the following page of this issue. The porcelain paint applied to the ends of the sail arm significantly reduces the wear on the sheets. Notice of Race United States Vintage Model Yacht Group 2023 National Championship Regatta Series October 13 – 15, 2023 Sponsored by the US Vintage Model Yacht Group and hosted by Chester Springs Model Yacht Club The sailing location is Tel Hai Camp and Retreat Center 1101 Beaver Dam Road, Honey Brook, PA 19344. 32 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Addressing Article and photographs by Steve LaBrenz Sail Arm Friction The sail servo arm is a source of friction that can fray mainsail and jib sail sheets throughout a sailing season. Many sailing days have been lost when a frayed sheet breaks from continued stress at this friction point. Beads and blocks are often used to create a smooth surface for a sheet to change direction on the sail arm. I found a simpler solution after a little research: Porcelain Paint. The paint is Pēbēo 024-042 Porcelaine 150 China Paint (available in various colors). It is a water-based paint that can be used to coat the ends of an aluminum sail arm where the sheets pass through the holes drilled at the ends for the main and the jib. 1. 2. 3. 4. Drill out the holes to 1/8 or 3/16 in so the paint doesn’t close the hole; the paint is thick. To ensure complete coverage, dip the ends in the paint three times, and after each dip, use a wire, toothpick, or disposable paint brush to remove excess paint and prevent closing-off the holes. Wait 30-60 minutes between each dip. Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours. Place the servo arm in a 350℉ oven for 40 min to cure the paint to a final, hard, and glassy finish. You will note that my time and temperature are slightly different that those recommended on the container. My time and temperature are a result of experimentation. I tested the sail arm with a HiTec 815 servo, a G.T. Power CCPM Servo Consistency Master, and a 2000-mAh 6-volt battery. A 50-lb kite string was passed through either an uncoated or Porcelain paint-coated hole, and provided tension with a rubber band. After 15 min of continuous sheet-in, sheet-out motion, the string in the coated hole showed no sign of wear. The string running through the uncoated hole showed discoloration and was beginning to fray. The paint reduced the friction and protected the sheet from fraying in this test. You can also use this paint on screw eyes that are used to change the direction of sheets inside the hull of a boat. Cover the thread with a long piece of masking tape and use it as a handle to dip the loop end into the paint. I found two coats of paint were sufficient for these pieces using the same process, a wire or brush, to remove excess paint from the eyelet. Bake as discussed for a final smooth coating, especially where the butt-end of the eyelet closes to form the loop. Complete testing of the coating was performed using the author’s Soling1M throughout the club 2022 sailing season. The main sheet did fray and break late in the season during a high wind day, but not at the sail arm. An uncoated eyelet was the friction point that broke. Now, all eyelets and sail arm contact points are porcelain paint-coated. 33 Summer 2023 The Model Yacht Rudder Connecting Rod Article and photographs by TMY Editorial Staff Many connecting rod arrangements have been tried over the years, and the one described here is the lightest and strongest. It uses readily available materials. The connecting rod connects the control arm on the rudder servo to the steering control arm on the rudder shaft. Materials • • • • • • Installed connecting arm. One length of 0.157-in carbon fiber tubing (kite store) One 12-in, 2-56 stainless all-thread Two Du-Bro, Sullivan, or Great Planes 2-56 clevis Two rubber clevis keepers (usually comes with the clevis) Two 2-56 stainless nuts 2-part epoxy Tools • Small hacksaw • Small fine files and abrasive paper All of these parts can be acquired online from Amazon, other sources, or as noted. Procedure 1. 2. 3. Cut 2 pieces of the 2-56 all-thread 3 inches in length. Cut a piece of the carbon fiber 3 in shorter than dimension between the centers of the rudder servo and the rudder itself. Smooth the ends to remove the roughness and loose carbon fibers. Rough up the inside of the tube with a jeweler’s rat tail file. Use the point and file edge to accomplish this. NOTE: Prepare to insert the all-thread into both ends at the same time. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Wrap a piece of masking tape so one edge of the tape is 2 in from one end of the all-thread. Mix up a small batch of thickened 1-hour epoxy and work some into the tubing. Use a toothpick to get the epoxy as far as possible into the end of the tubing. NOTE: You can use saw dust or flour as if you do not have microballoons. Apply a small amount of epoxy to the long end of the all-thread. Now slide the all-thread into the tubing until you reach the tape. Wipe off the access epoxy. Repeat with the other piece of all-thread on the other end of the tubing. You can now assemble the rudder connecting installation. 34 Parts collected for connecting rod. Roughing up the inside of the tube. Completed end of the connecting rod. Connecting rod installed in a boat.