The Model Yacht: Volume 3, Number 3 – Winter 1999/2000

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, D.C. NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME THREE, NUMBER THREE WINTER 1999 – 2000 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME THREE, NUMBER THREE WINTER 1999 – 2000 Editor’s Welcome We traditionally run a major construction project as the technical supplement for our Winter issue. This time, to commemorate the end of our third year of publication, we present the most ambitious one yet — a condenstation of Claude Horst’s A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht. The information in this article will permit you to build an accurate reproduction of a typical bread-and-butter model of the late 1930s. Even if you don’t build one, the rigging and fitting data, along with that in the “Zip” supplement to our Vol. 1. No. 1, should be a great help to those of you restoring old boats. I very much hope to see at least one new Horst boat at the San Francisco free-sail Regatta in May. This is also our big issue for renewals. Please check your mailing label; if there is a “33” after your name, that means that this issue (Vol. 3 No. 3) is your last. A self-addressed envelope is included as a reminder. We publish three issues (forming one volume) each year; No. 1 in the Spring, No. 2 in the Fall, and No. 3 in the early January of the next year. The number after your name gives the volume and number of the last issue we think you are entitled to. We’re not perfect, so if you think we’re mistaken, let us know and we’ll make it right. Well, that’s it — the only thing left is to offer my best wishes for good health and fair winds in the New Year. Earl Boebert Ebbs and Flows The President’s Message Vintage Membership Our annual $15 fee covers three issues of the VMYG newsletter – “The Model Yacht”, and access to technical assistance and vintage model plans. A VMYG lifetime membership is $100. Our “how to” book/video package on plank-on-frame model construction is available to members but not included with the fee. To subscribe to our newsletter/services or for renewals, send a check (payable to US VMYG) or cash for $15 (or $100) to: John Snow, c/o US VMYG, 78 East Orchard St, Marblehead, MA 01945. For inquiries on our activities, either call me @ 781-631-4203 or visit the VMYG Web Page at http:// www.swcp.com/usvmyg R/C “Vintage M” (VM) Group There are two VM divisions: 1945 and prior designs, “Traditional M”s, and post-1945 through 1970 designs, “High Flyer M”s. For rating rules or VM registration, contact Charlie Roden, VM Coordinator, at 19 Oak Glen Ln, Colts Neck, NJ 07722 and 732-462-7483. New Email: cer@monmouth.com The 2000 VM regatta is the focal point of the National Vintage Regatta on August 11-13, Marblehead, MA. This event will feature R/C and free-sail VM racing, plus VM display judging. New Email Address Dominic Meo III, our West Coast vice-president, has a new Email address: dmeo@socal.rr.com. Page 1 Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Models Group The 2000 racing/display regatta for R/C traditional sailing models is September in Spring Lake, NJ. Check elsewhere in this column for details. It will include scratch-built schooner models having design rules, schooners with fin & bulb keels and those built from kits, plus other traditional sailing designs such as skipjacks. Schooner model rules can be obtained from our Traditional Sailing Craft Coordinator Harry Mote at 18 Woodmansee Blvd, Barnegat, NJ 08005 and 609-660-0100. Email: stryker@cybercomm.net Proposed R/C American Classic “50/800” (C50) Group The VMYG supports activities for “M 50/ 800” model yachts from early AMYA designs: 1971 to 1991 M boats having conventional sail rigs and non-kevlar hull material. The C50 Group Coordinator is Dennis Lindsey at 515 N. Lyall Ave, West Covina, CA 91790 and 626-966-9538. Email: lindseyd@flash.net Dennis has a listing of older AMYA M designs and C50 rating rules. “J” Class Challenge Cup Championship Regatta The AMYA and VMYG are hosting the 2000 J Class National Championship (ACCR) at the Mystic Seaport Museum on July 28-30. This is a concerted effort to raise the visibility of the J Class, given its vintage design origins from AC races, and the sport of model yachting. This event will be the featured waterfront activity on that weekend: practice racing Friday, ACCR Saturday and America’s Cup (AC) match races Sunday. The recreation of some of the 1930s classic AC pairings will include Enterprise vs. Shamrock V and Ranger vs. Endeavour. It will also have a three-day, indoor model yacht exhibit at the Seaport of vintage and AMYA models. If interested, contact myself to display a model and John Hanks, J Class Secretary, at 1849 Rainbow Ave South, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403 and 520-680-7331, for the J racing. Additional information on this model regatta and other Mystic Seaport special events in 2000 is available through the Mystic Web Page at http://www.mysticseaport.org The VMYG Web Site will post the Mystic J press release and regatta entry form. Discounted Mystic ticket prices for the regatta and other Museum attractions are available if requested. Vintage Etcetera The 2000 Marblehead Historical Society (MHS) model exhibit will focus on the past 100 years of model yachting at Redd’s Pond, with mostly vintage models of the type raced at Redd’s. These will also include an early vane model built by Captain Nat Herreshoff and a 1927 “450 Sail Area” Class model designed and built by L. Frances Herreshoff, Captain Nat’s son. As part of this exhibit, the MHS is hosting a lecture series on Marblehead model yachting history, IYRS restoration project of the 1885 Schooner “Coronet” and Herreshoff Marine Museum (Halsey Herreshoff), plus a workshop on building a wooden “M” Class hull. Check the VMYG Web Site for emerging information on all our 2000 activities. All in all, interesting and eclectic mix of vintage events to build upon for the future! 2000 Vintage Events Second VM Free-Sail Invitational Regatta May 27 -28, Spreckles Lake, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, CA; Free-sailing racing with vane and Braine gear vintage “M 50-800” models. Local rating rules (not VM) apply — check with Jeff Stobbe (408-475-6233. Email: cjstobbe@pacbell.net) for information and to make sure your present or contemplated boat is legal. WoodenBoat Show June 23-25, Mystic Seaport Museum, Mystic, CT; VM/Traditional Sailing Craft model displays/demonstrations, plus exhibits of full-size wooden sail/power boats and accessories/maritime items by trades people. VMYG Contact – John Snow 781-631-4203 “J” Class Challenge Cup Regatta July 28-30, Mystic Seaport Museum, Mystic, CT; J ACCR, 1930s America’s Cup J match racing and AMYA/ VMYG models display. AMYA Contact – John Hanks 520-680-7331 Press Release: Mystic Web Page. Entry Form: AMYA & VMYG Web Sites by Feb 2000 WoodenBoat School Model Course August,Brooklin, ME; Six-day building course for a wooden model yacht by Thom McLaughlin. Page 2 VMYG Contact – Thom McLaughlin 813-2516919 ; Email mclaugh@arts.usf.edu Scratch-built, free-sailed wooden models one meter and under. National Vintage Regatta August 11-13, Redd’s Pond, Marblehead, MA; R/C and free-sail (F/S) VM racing and display judging. VM F/ S racing – Fri/Sat; R/C racing – Sat/Sun. Associated vintage model yacht exhibit (20 total) at Marblehead Historical Society from April 9 – October 31 marking 75th birthday of the Marblehead MYC. VMYG Contact – John Snow 781-631-4203 Marblehead MYC Contact – John Snow 781631-4203 Thoughts on Guidelines for Schooner Static Judging Entry Form: Next newsletter issue and VMYG Web Site by Mar 2000. International Yacht Restoration School “Family Day” August 20, IYRS, Newport, RI; VMYG model display; IYRS exhibits/open house, harbor excursions, children’s activities. VMYG Contact – John Snow 781-631-4203 Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Model Regatta September 23-24, 2000, Spring Lake NJ. The Year 2000 Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Models regatta will be hosted by the Marbleheaders of Spring Lake on September 23-24. An application form is in this issue. This regatta includes competion for schooners, skipjacks, and other traditional sailing types. Prizes will be awarded for types that muster a fleet of at least three boats. Others will sail in an open class. Spring Lake Open for VMs In conjuction with the Traditional Sailing Craft regatta, the Marbleheaders of Spring Lake will host a second Spring Lake Open for R/C Traditional Marbleheads on Sunday Afternoon, September 24. An application form is in this issue. The last Spring Lake Open, held in conjuction with the 1998 Traditional Sailing Craft regatta, for both club members and those Traditional Sailing Craft types who brought their VMs with them, proved so successful that it was decided to repeat the event. 18th Annual Boston Antique & Classic Boat Festival September, Boston Harbor, MA; VMYG exhibit booth and R/C vintage model sailing. VMYG Contact – John Snow 781-631-4203 Freesail Model Regatta October 8 Red Beach, Menemsha Pond, Martha’s Vineyard, MA; John Snow At first glance, static judging a bunch of model boats seems pretty simple and straight forward. It’s just a beauty contest, right? Well, yes, to some extent. That’s basically what we’ve been doing for the past three years -generally judging quality of workmanship, finish, etc., trying to get our feet wet in the static judging of replica schooners. We’ve been looking at what turns up to be judged and we’ve not been too tough on departures from the original vessel and completeness of detail. But, like most things worthwhile, static judging a replica sailing model is a little more difficult than the beauty contest. Replica, for our schooner models, means exactly as the original in every possible detail, except in miniature. The goal is a near museum quality model that also sails well. For schooners, the quality of judging is especially important, in that static is 50% of the score. So, for fairness and good sportsmanship, we need to get it right. The downside of our past practice of not being too tough, so not to be too discouraging, is that we discourage the people who really make an effort. Their efforts are not equitably rewarded, which is worse than being too lenient. The 11 years’ experience of the Argonauts of San Diego bears this out. Being lenient early on caused more problems than it solved. Their experience, as Dick Davis, Argonauts schooner fleet captain, expressed it, “A rule is a rule is a rule. If it’s a bad rule change it. If it’s a good rule enforce it.” A diffficulty with “replica” is that the model must sail well, since race course performance is the other half of the score. This means that Page 3 A typical schooner rig, illustrating Harry’s points about what it means to be a replica. the builder is likely to make compromises with replica quality and details of the vessel to maximize sailing ability, based on a gamble that what he looses in point deductions in static judging, he will more than make up for on the race course. A common alteration, for example, is the replacement of the standard schooner staysail and jib with a single, boomed, self-tending jib, common on most RC boats. The static judge must be knowledgeable enough about schooners to spot departures from the original, verify that they actually are departures, based on the vessel’s hull lines, deck and sail plans, and then decide on equitable point deductions. The judge is at once applying a list of class rules and judging the builder’s execution by five criteria. By comparison, judging quality of finish is the easy part. That’s the beauty contest aspect of the job. If the judge takes his job seriously and respects the hours and care that some builders put into their schooners, it is an awesome task. In competitive fairness, good sportsmanship and respect for the efforts of the best builders, we need to become more thorough in our schooner static judging. Suggested Guidelines Following is an attempt at guidelines to maximize the quality of our static judging and the thoughtful application of the rules we have all agreed to. To this end, we welcome commentary from schoonermen via snail mail at 18 Woodmansee Blvd., Barnegat, NJ 08005 or e-mail at stryker@cybercomm.net. The following suggestions refer to the USVMYG schooner rules and score sheet, originally published in The Model Yacht, Vol. One, No. One, Spring, 1997. The suggestions Page 4 cover selecting judges, static display arrangement and a commentary on how to apply the schooner rules against the five static judging criteria. Selecting Judges The ideal judge, obviously, should be knowledgeable about full-size schooners so that he can be reasonably authoritative about judging details that may not be apparent from the required copy of the sail plan, hull lines and deck layout of the vessel being judged. He should be knowledgeable about plank on frame construction and other traditional model building skills so that he can judge the quality of the work. Then there is the “human element.” He must be unbiased. One of the frustrations here is that people who would seem to have the best credentials do not always make the best judges. One year the Argonauts recruited a curator type from a museum of ship models — an expert on static models. In executing his judging duties, he marked a schooner down in points because it’s deck was unvarnished. Never mind that the model had a bare, laid teak deck, just like the original vessel. The curator’s notion of pond boats was that they should be all varnished, bright and shiny. So, selecting the best judges is difficult. It continues to be a challenge for the Argonauts, even after more than 10 years. Three judges, working independently, seem to be best. Setting Up The Display Set up the schooners in a row in one location so that judges have a quick overview of what the field offers. This also makes the schooners easier to find, if there are a lot of different boats around. If space is tight, park the boats diagonally at about 45 degrees so that the judge has a good view of the profile of each vessel, without the need to squeeze in between the boats. Insist that owners have the boats rigged as they will be sailed before the judging starts (rule #6). The owner/ builder/sailor (rule #10) should be standing by, out of the way, in case a judge has questions. Applying The Rules Make available to judges well before the event a copy of the rules, score sheet and a brief description of what the replica schooners are all about and what you expect of the judges. Schedule a judges briefing early on the day the judging is to take place to answer any questions, to re-emphasize “replica” and rule #9. Judging By The Five Criteria 1. Hull fairness and finish: Hull fairness is the sign of a good builder. Hull finish, however, should be appropriate for the vessel. Schooner yachts usually have a glossy finish, with planking seams not visible. Working schooners can have a duller, if not flat finish. 2. Deck, deck houses and fittings: Is the deck one sheet of wood or plywood, with lines to simulate the laid deck pattern of the full-size vessel; or is it actually laid and of the same wood as the original? Teak decks are almost always bare. Laid pine decks on workboats are sometimes bare. Remember Replica. The appropriate deck should get the best score. Are the deck houses like the deck plan provided for the vessel? Deck houses on yachts are usually finished bright (varnished). Deck houses on workboats are usually painted, often light gray or white. Are the fittings appropriate for the vessel? Did the original have goosenecks or jaws on booms and gaffs? Did it have turnbuckles or deadeyes? Did the original normally carry a dinghy or dories on deck? Are the anchors, chain and windlass in place? How about the wheel, rail caps and the framing that usually comes through the covering board to support the bulwarks forward, often the full length of the vessel? Any other details missing, such as running lights? Remember Replica. 3. Construction details: Lift the hatch, or have the owner remove it, so that you can determine hull construction. It must be plank on frame (rule #1). The traditional plank on frame method includes a planking layout that uses full length planks tapered at both ends with virtually no edge-set. All of the planks land on the backbone, stem and transom. They do not run out at the sheer. Traditional planking should get higher marks than strip planking, in which the edges of the planking are parallel, or balsa “planking” with a fiberglass and body putty covering. 4. Sails and rigging: The typical two-masted schooner rig of the size vessel we build as models includes, from stern to forward, a mainsail with a boom that overhangs the Page 5 transom; a foresail, a staysail and a jib, with the tack of the jib on the end of the bowsprit. Book Review Compare the sail plan of the original vessel to the model (rule #5). Is all of the rigging there? Has the staysail and jib been replaced with a conventional RC, boomed, self-tending jib? Several schoonermen have worked out methods of tacking and trimming overlapping jibs (see The Model Yacht, Vol. 2, No. 3, page 1718). Running backstays can be tacked by a method similar to that of the overlapping jib. An Introduction To Radio Controlled Scale Sailing Models The spars, including the bowsprit are normally tapered. They are not dowels. The booms and gaffs are usually tapered at both ends, like elongated barrel shapes, whether their section is round or rectangular. Remember Replica. Is there any rigging on the model that was not on the original, such as a main masthead crane to accommodate a permanent backstay? Boom vangs, common on RC boats, are permitted (rule #6). 5. Overall impression: This “impression” is informed by knowledge and experience. This is the place to check proportions of the model, compared with the original (rule #4). Have beam or draft been increased to improve the model’s ability to carry its sail and thus improve speed? Has rudder area been increased by more than 150%? If changes in hull form to improve speed are suspected, get out a ruler and measure, according to scale. Was the ballast inside or outside in the original vessel? The Part-time Judge If one were to be a professional static judge of replica RC schooners, it would probably be worthwhile to work out a check list that included a points system. But this is a lot to ask, given the hobbyist orientation of our efforts and the once a year need for judging. The best we can ask for is an honest, thoughtful appraisal of our schooners that doesn’t take too much of the judge’s time. When we find a knowledgeable and fair judge whose work we like, be full of praise and bestow many thanks in the hope that he’ll do it again next time. Harry Mote by Phillip Vaughan Williams An Introduction to Radio Controlled Scale Sailing Models is a new release in a series of marine modeling books and videos from the British magazine “Marine Modelling International”. This book is a systematic study of a whole range of subjects pertaining to the hobby of radio control scale models. It deals with planning the project, modelling techniques, scaling problems, radio control, and sailing methods; all of which are of great help to anyone contemplating scale model construction. The author has included over 100 photographs and a multitude of drawings as aids to understanding building, rigging, and sailing scale sailing models. The illustrations of detailed models of museum quality might discourage the newcomer to the hobby, but the author makes it clear that everyone is entitled to build to his own standard. This is after all a matter of self expression. What may be high standards to some, may appear to be obsessive-compulsive to others. Every person to their own taste. So, if you just want to get something out on the water, or prefer to spend years detailing wrinkles in the sails, its your choice. Which is to say, all are welcome on the water. Nice thought! The text shines with solutions to the many little problems that for the uninitiated loom as stumbling blocks toward a nicely completed model. The book has a nice chart on the optimum size of model (models smaller than 30″ do not sail very well, and models larger than 60″ are difficult to transport, but sail very well). It also has a good chapter on scaling effects for stability (ballast), sail area, and model size. The controls section is well detailed, especially when it comes to setting up square riggers and working sail craft. As members of the Vintage Model Yacht Group, we are always looking to add to the scale sailing models we see at the pond. This book gives one the incentive and the enthusiasm to build a schooner or other scale model for the enjoyment of watching the efforts of Page 6 your time and labor sail magnificently across the water. The book does recognize the North American schooner and shows Commodore Melvin Conant of the Great Schooner Society, USA, but otherwise, most vessel illustrations are from British or European craft. However, the principles of construction, scaling, and rigging are the same the world over. For the very experienced, the discussion of museum quality models should prove of considerable interest. In order to pack in all the details of scale sailing models into a relatively small book, the publisher has resorted to a small print size. For those older modellers, this might prove burdonsome. All told, we both very much recommend this title as an excellent read and reference. And at this reasonable price, it is a steal. We both highly recommend this book. Ordering Information 141 Pgs, $22 plus postage and handling. Order from: Traplet Distribution USA Ltd. 3103 Tatman Court Suite 105 Urbana, Il 61802 USA. Phone: (217) 328-4444 Fax: (217) 328-2450 Email: info@traplet.com; Website: www.traplet.com Jerome Peters and Alan Suydam Vintage Marblehead (VM) Coordinator’s Report As promised in our last issue, changes in the Vintage Marblehead Rating Rules will be considered at this time. Before discussing the proposed changes, however, it is useful to consider the goals of our vintage activities and of the VM Model Group, in particular, as they have a large bearing on the rules that we adopt. Our founders envisioned a vintage group of sailors that would not be interested in serious competition, but would rather be attracted to the history, building, static display and fun racing of early sailing models. The program was envisioned as being as inclusive as possible in order to encourage both the novice and long-time sailor, as well as the builder and non-builder. Emphasis was to be placed on replicating the beautiful form of these early models with as few limits on construction methods and materials used as possible. If it looks like a VM from ten paces, then it is a VM. Leave as much to the ingenuity and creativity of the builder as possible. Life, however, is more complex than any of us would at first admit. An early decision was made to allow the use of modern materials in order to permit the building of stronger hulls with simpler, faster construction techniques. Fiberglass hulls were allowed in order to include existing fiberglass vintage models and to leave the door open for the availability of vintage kits for those who are not interested in building from scratch. The only restriction on fiberglass is that a molded fiberglass hull must be comparable in weight to a similar hull constructed of wood. Exotic materials including kevlar, carbon fiber, and mylar were not allowed because of their cost and the desire to avoid the technology race of the modern M class. Early vintage racing showed that we needed to address the disparity in performance of forty years of design evolution of the Marblehead development class. Two divisions were formed to establish racing groups of more comparable performance: Traditional (1945 and before) and High Flyer (1946 through 1970). It was realized that the additional rules defining each of the two classes were loose and would never completely level the playing field. However, it was believed that racing in separate divisions would narrow the performance differences and when combined with the range of skill levels of vintage sailors and the variation in sailing conditions at any site would make our racing of these boats interesting. Racing is only one element of our annual regattas which include static judging, sailing demonstrations, visits to nearby model manufacturers and hardware vendors, and most of all social gatherings including the imbibing of fine food and spirits. Winners are not enshrined in the Sailing Hall of Fame. Well, why even consider any further changes at this point? The only reason that I can think Page 7 of is that we are newly formed and a few changes at this time might make vintage racing at our regattas more equitable and fun. Having said that, the VM Design Committee, which is responsible for approving changes, wishes to involve VM owners in the decision making process. A simple majority vote by registered VM owners will gain acceptance of changes that have received prior approval by the Design Committee as being based on valid assumptions and consistent with our goals. Approval by the Design Committee is not necessarily a recommendation for a vote of acceptance by owners. A proposed change that does not receive the approval of the Design Committee, may still gain acceptance by receiving at least a 2/3 majority vote of all registered VM owners. The proposed changes submitted by VM owners at this time are listed below. All registered VM owners are invited to respond by submitting a vote of yes or no on each proposed change by postal mail or e-mail to me. ( Charles Roden, 19 Oak Glen Lane, Colts Neck, NJ 07722 or cer@monmouth.com). 1. Proposed Change: Sail luff measurement shall be from the bottom of the tack to a point at the head where the width of the sail perpendicular to the luff measures 3/4 inch. Discussion: The 1954 rules call for the luff measurement to be from the sail tack to the bottom of the headboard or headstick or eye (where no headboard or headstick is used). The headboard at its base cannot exceed a width of 3/4 inch. Modern materials have allowed the use of thin flexible materials or in many cases just an additional layer of cloth for a headboard. There is confusion as to whether an additional layer of cloth constitutes a headboard or a strengthening patch. There is also no requirement on the placement of the eye. This change would avoid this confusion and require measurement to a 3/4 inch width point at the head of the sail in all cases without regard to the existence or non-existence of a headboard. Strengthening patches may be extended below the 3/4 inch width point of the sail, but it should be appreciated that they stiffen and flatten the sail thereby reducing its aerodynamic shape and drive. This problem was more fully discussed in the Vol. 3 No.1 Spring 1999 issue. Approved by the VM Design Committee. 2. Proposed Change: Multi-paneled sails may be used in both Divisions. Discussion: Multi-paneled sails were not disallowed in the 1939 or 1954 M rules. Unlike the construction of sails on full-size boats where no practical choice existed, paneled sails were avoided in models because of sail cloth limitations. With modern materials this is no longer the case and paneled sails would offer improved performance particularly in light air. This would add to the fun of sailing vintage models. While a single panel sail is easy to make, it is not easy to make a good single panel sail because of the difficulty of controlling small amounts of luff round. Their construction is further complicated by cloth variations from bolt to bolt and variations in the bend characteristics of wooden masts. Some feel that a good set of multi-paneled sails, however, are within the reach of novice builders. Several AMYA articles exist that show how to construct a camber shaped block to aid in making the broad seams that add curvature to a sail. Those who opposed this change last year have had a change of heart and requested that this change be reconsidered. Approved by the VM Design Committee 3. Proposed Change: Traditional Division rules shall be based on modifications of the 1939 M Rules. Discussion: The present rules for both Divisions are based on the 1954 M Rules. The 1939 rules cover the Traditional period. The only difference between the two sets of rules is that the sail luff measurement in the 1939 Rules is from the top of the boom as contrasted to from the bottom of the sail tack in the 1954 rules. Approved by the Design Committee. 4. Proposed Change: The height of the mast above the deck in the Traditional Division shall not exceed 70 inches. Discussion: The Traditional Marbleheaders are characterized by low aspect ratio sail forms. A draft limit of 12 inches in the present rules was intended to discourage the use of tall rigs. This certainly works in moderate and heavy air, but less so in very light air conditions. The 70 inch mast limit will further safeguard against the use of tall rigs. Not approved by the Design Committee (no mast height limit in the early rules, further constraints discourage participation). Page 8 5. Proposed Change: Only a single set of sails may be used in a given regatta in both Divisions. Discussion: This restriction would avoid the added complexity and cost of the use of multiple sails to take advantage of the varying wind conditions at a regatta. Not approved by the Design Committee (alternate rigs have always been allowed to cover the full range of wind conditions). 6. Proposed Change: All materials other than brass are prohibited for fittings and other metal gear, except shrouds and stays for the Traditional VM. Discussion: While other materials were used during this period, brass was primarily used. Not approved by the Design Committee (many different materials were used for fittings on early models). 7. Proposed Change: For the Traditional Division the maximum draft allowed is 11.5 inches Discussion: The present limit is 12 inches. The new proposed limit is closer to the deepest boat known in this class. This would reduce the likelihood that existing boats would be outclassed by new deeper draft boats. Not approved by the Design Committee (some early 1930s boats believed to have exceeded this limit and tweaking discourages participation) A Major New Work by Russel Potts Russell Potts, who heads the Vintage Model Yacht Group in the U.K., is probably the authority in our field. We all owe him a debt of gratitude because it was his speech at the Marblehead Club’s 100th Anniversary banquet in 1994 that directly sparked the formation of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Now we owe him even more, for producing a landmark in the documentation of our sport. A Bibliography of Model Yachting Have you ever seen a model yacht book or magazine listed on eBay or in a bookseller’s catalog and wondered what it was, or whether you might be interested in it? Well, wonder no more, for Russell and his coauthor Paul Croxson have put many hours into A Bibliography of Model Yachting. This book not only lists but also describes (in Russell’s inimitable way) just about everything that ever appeared in print about model yachting. Here’s a couple of examples: 31 8. Proposed Change: Eliminate aluminum as a mast and boom material for the Traditional VM Discussion: While some may have experimented with aluminum during this period, wood was almost exclusively used. Not approved by the Design Committee (aluminum masts not uncommon, don’t want to discourage ease of construction) 9. Proposed Change: Exclude balsa planking method of hull construction for the Traditional Division Discussion: This is to encourage traditional wood construction and avoid the possibility of producing a hull that is lighter than one constructed by traditional methods. Not approved by the Design Committee (don’t want to limit construction alternatives further, already limit on fiberglass hull weight). CREATOR, (pseud): Model Ships and Boats (Model Engineering Series, No 3): London, Bear, Wilson, 1944: 32, oblong 8o. Though the author’s pseudonym appears in the bibliographical references, it is nowhere to be found on the book. That an author should write under a pseudonym and then take even his pseudonym off the book suggests a deep uncertainty about the value of what he has written. An entirely justified doubt. There are three projects, of which only the first is for a sailing model, a 63 cm. long, box-like, flat bottom sharpie made from plywood. This is a shoddy piece of book making, cheaply produced, with drawings that are tiny, messy and confusing. The first page contains a number of important misprints that make nonsense of the advice on the sizes of plywood from which the boat is to be constructed. Dimensions are sometimes in metric, sometimes in imperial units. The design, methods of construction and general approach are crude and inadequate. Sailmaking is treated in half a line, ballasting with the sentence ‘Fasten a piece of lead to the bottom of the boat so that it floats on its water line.’ This is one of a series of ‘Model Engineering’ titles from this publisher; those on aeromodelling and railway modelling are equally dire. Charles Roden Page 9 *138 TILLER, Arthur: Modellyachtbau und Segeln. Zweite, völlig umgearbeitete und vermehrte Auflage von ‘Die ModellYacht’. Konstruktion, Bau und Segeln von Modellsegel-Yachten. Mit über 200 abbildungen und vielen konstruktionstafln von ausgeführten ModellsegelYachten: Berlin, Wedekind, (YachtBibliothek Band XV) 1922: vi, 231,4o. Reprint, Berlin, Delius, Klasing, 1926 This second version of Tiller’s serious work on model yachting again appeared originally in the Die Yacht library. It is much expanded and reorganised. The foreword is signed from Copenhagen. The expanded discussion of measurement Rules follows much the same path as in the 1911 title, but is more scathing about the distortions produced by the displacement Rules used in Kiel and Hamburg. The discussion of design procedures is little different, though the treatment of sail plans includes some new material on the aerodynamics of sails and the need for controlling the shape of the sail. The construction section is much expanded to include bread and butter techniques (both on the waterlines and on the buttocks) and hard chine construction. There is also more detail on the casting of lead, the fitting of rudders and the like. The plank-on-frame section remains as in 1911, except for a backward looking section incorporating ideas and drawings taken, without acknowledgement, from Grosvenor (No. 54). The sailing techniques element is essentially the same, but with a wider range of automatic steering gear designs, including a whole series of drawings taken from H H Simpson’s articles in Yachting Monthly. A chapter is given over to the design and construction of a skiff suitable for handling model yachts. This reflects the practice of the Hamburg and Kiel clubs, and possibly others in Germany. The plans supplement is expanded. Three designs are carried forward from 1911. Many of the new ones still date from before 1914 and include much larger yachts than in the earlier version. The displacement classes run up to 50 Kg., and there are as well designs to the (English) Linear Rating Rule of 1901 and to the International (Metre) Rule of 1906. All these designs show heavy ‘scale’ influences in both hull and rig and some are rigged as schooners, possibly in imitation of the large full size schooner yachts designed by Oertz for the Kaiser and Krupp. is obviously up to date and could not have appeared in 1911. These excerpts will give you an idea of the scope and detail contained in the work. If there is one indispensable book for the vintage enthusiast, this is it. Ordering Information The book is currently listed at £15.00 including postage to the U.S. Depending on exchange rates, this works out to about $25.00, plus or minus fluctuations in the exchange rate and the usual bank ripoff, er, fees. The book is available from Graham Bantock, 141 High St., Kelveton, Essex, CO5 9AA, United Kingdom; +44 (0) 1376 571 437. They take Mastercard and Visa. Earl Boebert The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998,1999, 2000, U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Midwest Vice-President: Al Suydam Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Traditional/Scale Coordinator: Harry Mote Vintage M Class Coordinator: Charles Roden Classic “50” Coordinator: Dennis Lindsey Historian: Earl Boebert Historian: Charles Williamson Archivist: Jim Dolan Tiller also includes a number of designs drawn from British and French sources, some of which we have not seen elsewhere. For instance, he has the only lines drawing we have seen for the late, decadent, style of 10 Tonner to the ‘1730’ Rule sailed in the North East of England early in this century. This example is by A Long, a noted skipper of the day and a draughtsman in a Tyneside shipyard. Apart from a small number of more recent designs, all by Tiller himself and dated 1920 and 1921, there is little in the second edition that Page 10 A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht Editor’s Note Background Claude William Horst was a manual arts teacher in Milwaukee who, like many of his colleagues, used model boats and model yachts as school projects. As a result he developed a series of designs and techniques that are eminently suited for beginners. In 1939 he published a large-format pamphlet entitled A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht, which we have excerpted to form our technical supplement this issue. relatively light displacement and long overhangs. If built as a free-sailing boat she should be a decent competitor in lighter winds. If built to sail in the San Francisco regatta, she should be trimmed out to be no less than 13 lbs. in displacement; no design displacement is given, but with 9 3/4 lbs of design ballast a good guess is that she was designed to a displacement of 13 to 14 lbs. In any case, with her long overhangs she should be quite forgiving of Figure 1 being overweight. Building Tips Remarkably little needs to be changed to bring the work up to date. Two-part resorcinol glue is superior to the casein of 1939, and synthetic sailcloth is all that is readily available today, and that’s about it. Horst’s pamphlet is distinctive in that he describes the a completely scratch-built boat, including the fittings. It is the most complete description we have encountered with the exception of the classic Yachting With Models by John Black (also a manual arts teacher.) Horst ‘s methods are more forgiving to beginners. One area which may give the beginning builder pause is the casting of the lead keel, described by Horst in some detail. Lead can be handled safely with a minimum of care. There are two risks associated with The Design His boat is typical of the early Marbleheads with its Fig. 2. Developing a lift template. P 11 Plate I Page 12 casting lead keels. First, the stuff is hot, and will spatter if it encounters moisture. Be sensible. Wear heavy gloves, an apron, and eye protection. Make sure that plaster molds are dry by baking them in a 200 deg oven for a couple of hours. Second, lead is toxic, especially to children. The important thing to know is that in order to be poisoned by lead you have to ingest it — eat it, drink it, or breathe it. Do your casting in a well-ventilated location, and be careful to clean up all filings and chips, especially if there are children around, and wash up before eating or handling food. One thing we do not recommend is scavenging lead from old tire weights, etc., because you don’t know what other metals are in there to make automatic casting easier. A pure 20:1 lead/ antimony mixture, which makes nice hard keels, can be had from Buffalo Arms Co., 208-263-6953 or www.buffaloarms.com. Good, safe melting and casting supplies can by had from Lyman Products, 800-22LYMAN or www.lymanproducts.com, or drop by your local blackpowder firearms shop. Editorial Changes The original work’s section on design balance has been condensed to the drawings giving the setting of the running rigging for various points of sail. We also did not print the full-size station templates; (Fig 10) these can be developed by enlarging Plate I to full size at your local Kinko’s. Even with a full-size Plate I, we recommend using Horst’s method of drawing the Fig. 3 lifts using the table of offsets, as there is inevitable distortion introduced in the process of scanning, pasting together the two halves, and enlarging it. And now we turn you over to Mr. Horst. Construction Practically any finegrained lightFig 4. weight wood is suitable for the hull lifts. For the backbone, which consists of the stem, keel, and horn timber, a hard wood such as a fine-grained walnut mahogany, birch, or some similar wood, should Fig. 5 be used. The model described here is made up of two completely finished halves. Each half in turn is made of lifts, or layers, and not until the two halves are entirely finished are they attached to the backbone to make a complete hull. Fig. 6 Lift Templates. For an accurate job it is advisable to make templates for all lifts of thin plywood or cardboard. Since all the half-breadth dimensions given on Plate I are taken from the center line, which includes half of the keel Fig. 7 structure, it is much easier to Page 13 make the templates to include half the keel so the dimensions can be used as they appear in the table and then later remove a 1/8-in. slice which represents the keel. Developing a Template. Figures 2A, B, and C, show how to develop the template for lift 7. Locate the positions of the stations on the template stock (Fig. 2A), using the dimensions as given on Plate I. With the aid of a try square draw lines through these points and across the template stock (Fig. 2B). The distance given in the half-breadth table for these stations should be measured from the working edge (Fig. 2C). With the aid of a batten, about 1/8 by 3/16 in. and 4 1/2 ft. long, tacked along the points just measured, draw a line through the points. Cut the template on the outside of the line and finish to it. Remove the 1/8-in. strip, which represents the keel thickness, and the template for lift 7 is ready to use. A11 other lift templates are made likewise. The Lifts. Select fine-grained, well-seasoned material, finished to 3/4 in. thickness. One of the edges of the lift stock must be perfectly straight and at right angles with the flat surfaces. This edge will be used as the working edge. Place the straight edge of the template along this edge of the lift stock and draw the outside curve of each lift. Cut away the surplus material and finish very carefully to the line with a plane or a disk sander. After the outside curves of all the lifts have been finished check each one of them with its mate to see that they are identical. Then mark station 6 very accurately according to Plate I on all lifts. Following the same drawing, mark the interior cuts of all the lift pieces carefully and lay out a lug about 1 in. wide to be left at station 6 on lifts 4, 5, 6, Fig. 8A and 7. In cutting out the interior of the lifts leave the lugs (Fig. 3) and save the interior stock as it must be put back into its original place for the gluing-up process. By this method no distortion can take place when the clamp pressure is applied. Shellac the interior pieces to prevent glue from adhering to them. Gluing the Lifts Together. To simplify the gluing process make a rack of heavy material as shown in Figure 4. The pieces are glue fastened and they must make a right angle with each other. Mark station 6 on the edge of each outFig. 8B side lift curve and place all the lifts for one hull half on edge and in their proper order on the rack. Lift 8 is continued full length for gluing with a spacer piece exactly the same thickness as the lift 8 stock. Adjust the lines of all the lifts at station 6 making a straight line across the entire structure (Fig. 5). Mark the overlapping of all the lifts and apply glue to all the contact surfaces. Place all lifts from 1 to 8 back on the rack with the interior Fig. 9 pieces in place and if necessary nail the front and aft ends of each lift to the rack by driving small nails through the lower corners of the lifts so that the nail holes will be removed when the halves are shaped to profile. See that the center lugs are in contact with the rack when the clamp is being applied at the center. Then the rest of the Page 14 clamps should be applied. Figure 6 shows all clamps in place and Figure 7 shows the interior of the glued-up lifts. The second hull half is assembled in the same manner. Be sure that its lifts are arranged to make a hull half for the opposite side. Shaping the Outside. First shape both hull halves according to profile as shown in Plate I, which includes shaping the deck sheer line and the rabbet line. Figure 8A shows a batten tacked along the deck sheer to aid in marking it. Figure 7 shows the rabbet line marked at both ends. Figure 8B shows a half shaped to profile. To aid in shaping the contour of the outside, screw a lug to the hull halves by which they may be held in a vise (Fig. 9). Figure 101 gives full-sized station curves from which station templates may be taken directly using carbon paper and transferring the station curves to the template stock. Locate the stations on the hull according to Plate I and shape the outside to fit the various station templates as they are applied to their proper places on the hull. Figure 11 shows the application of a template. Shaping the Inside. To shape the inside, clamp the hull half to the bench top. Then use wedges, lugs, and other Fig. 13 clamps to hold the job securely in position (Fig. 12). Check frequently for an even thickness. Outside calipers are a great help for this work. It is very little trouble to 1. Omitted; use Plate I. — Ed. remove the hull half for checking since only one clamp is needed to hold it in place. To aid in assembling the hull halves, lugs are left along the Fig. 11 keel edge to which clamps are applied later in assembling the two halves. Figure 13 shows a hull half ready for the fin to be attached and shaped later as shown on Plate I. The Backbone Structure. Cut the backbone structure somewhat oversize to start with (Fig.14). The backbone is made of three pieces and fastened to either one of the two halves with glue and 1/2-in. No. 20 brads. The bottom edge of the keel must be even with the bottom of the hull half fin to which it is being fastened. Fastening the Hull Halves Together. Apply glue to the keel surface of the second hull half and to the keel which is already attached to the first half. Place the two halves against each Fig. 12 other on the bench top making sure that both halves are even at the bow. Apply the necessary clamps, using several on the fin. Figure 15 shows a cross section through one set of lugs. Completing the Shaping. Trim and shape the entire outside of the backbone, including the top of the stem, but do not cut off the stem top at this time. Shape the transom and finish the inside by removing the clamp lugs or the clamp ridge, as the case may be. Figure 16 shows the hull completely shaped both inside and out. The Stand. After the shaping has been completed, a temporary stand should be made to hold the hull in an upright position during Page 15 Fig. 14 the rest of the construction process. A permanent stand should be made when the job is finally finished. Mix enough plaster of paris1 to fill only one of the frames at a time as it sets very rapidly. Put the paste in frame A and push one half of the pattern into it so that the pattern is Rudder-Port Hole. Drill the hole through the hull exactly even with the top edge of the frame; for the rudder port which is made of 3/16-in. check this with a straightedge (Fig. 21). FigI.D. tubing as shown on Plate I. ure 22 shows a cross section of Figure 21. In adjusting the second half of the pattern on The Lead Portion of the Fin. Make a split pattern of a frame A care must be taken to see that it is in fine-grained wood, for both the left and right the same relative position as was the first half half. The two halves are held together with of the pattern in frame A. First place a dowel pins. The pattern must be made piece of waxed paper over the very accurately according to top of frame A after the plaster the dimensions given in Plate is set. Punch holes through the I. Station templates should be paper for the dowel pins and made of all the fin stations, and place the second half of the patthe pattern carefully shaped so that tern in position on top of the first. the templates fit perfectly at their respective Place frame B in position over places. frame A (Fig. 23) and fill it with plaster of paris. When the plaster Fig 15 Secure, or shape, half-round pieces has thoroughly hardened, lift off of stock, which, when added to the frame B, and the mold should part pattern halves, will provide the necessary easily at the waxed paper. Remove the patopenings in the mold for the gate, the bolts, tern from both frames and patch up any broand also the air vents. The bolt half round ken places. should be 3/16 in.; the vent, 3/16 in.; and the gate, 3/8-in. Use 3/16-in. non-rusting mateCut holes in the frames for the gate, the bolts, rial for the lead bolts, the lengths of which are and the air vents. The holes for the bolts must shown in Plate I. Both ends of the bolts be cut accurately, but one need not be so parshould be well threaded. Figure 17 shows ticular about the others. Before using the half the pattern ready to use. mold be sure that it is thoroughly dry. Figure 24 shows half of the mold ready for use. The Mold for the Lead. Make two Casting the Lead. frames exactly Before pouring the same size the lead, place and large the bolts in posienough to hold tion on frame A the entire patwith a nut tern. A box the screwed to the Fig. 16 proper size may lead end. The be cut as shown bolts should be in Figures 18 and held so that the 19. The parts may be labeled A and B for refnut will be about the center of the lead. Then erence. Drive a few nails through the sides of place frame B in position on frame A (Fig. both A and B to hold the plaster in the frames (Fig. 19). Nail lugs to the frame B as shown in 1. A better choice is Hydrocal, used by the model railFigure 20. These lugs assure that the frames roaders for scenery and available at most hobby shops. are placed together accurately. –Ed. Page 16 25). Hold the two frames together with clamps at each end, or tie them with wire. Set them on edge as shown and pour the lead. It is well to melt nearly 11 lb. as there is more or less waste1. Fitting the Lead. When the lead is removed from the mold, it must be smoothed and weighed. If it weighs less than the required 9 Ib. it must be recast, first, of course, rechecking the pat1. A much simpler way of obtaining a keel is to “puddle mold” two halves separately. and then join them with epoxy. Make the two halves as described, without the vent holes. Lay them “open face” and level them with a spirit level. You can then pour a “puddle” of lead into each. The surfaces can be filed flat, joined with epoxy, and imperfections smoothed with epoxy putty -Ed. tern for accuracy. A small amount of excess weight may be removed very easily, and is allowed for in the drawing to permit trimming, fitting, and some lateral balancing. Mark very carefully the location of the holes for the lead bolts on the fin. Bore from the outside of the fin in toward the center of the hull. Since the fin is narrow great care must be taken that the boring is done accurately. The lead also must line up perfectly with the fin. Sometimes it is necessary to use a rattail file and enlarge one side of the hole to accomplish this. When this is done tighten the nuts and then fair-in the lead with the wood part of the fin. Trimming the Boat for Lateral Balance. Re-move lead and apply at least two coats of paint to the outside of the hull. After the last coat is dry attach the lead again and place the hull in a Page 17 tub of water to check for lateral balance. Since the mast, rigging, deck, and deck beams are not in place the hull will float higher than shown on the drawing. If the thickness of the hull shell is as shown on the drawing, this will be about 3/32 in. at the bow and 1/16 in. at the stern. If the hull floats slightly too deep after all the rigging is attached the balancing may be perfected by using a file and removing the slight excess from the fin. If one end or the other floats too deep for correction the pattern will have to be changed and the lead recast. Fitting the Deck and the Deck Beams Rabbet the top edge of the hull so the deck will fit as shown below. Put in the deck beams placing them as shown, and notching them into the hull (Figs 27 and 28). Add two lengthwise structural members under the mast step (Fig. 29). The deck is made of 1/8-in. board or 1/16-in. plywood. To determine its shape it is advisable to fit a template of heavy paper to the hull and mark out the deck piece from it. Cut holes in the deck piece for the hatch and a slot for the jib rack (Figs. 28 and 30). The Rudder Port. To cut the hole for the rudder port, tack the deck piece temporarily in place, and spot the hole by pushing the rudder tube, which at this stage should be extra long through the hole already drilled through the bottom of the hull. When the end of the tube comes into contact with the deck, tap the other end with a hammer so that an impression will be left on the deck piece. This locates the fore and aft position of the tube. Draw a center line on the deck piece and, whether the impression is exactly on the center line or not, drill the hole on the line. Apply at least three coats of spar varnish to each side of the deck piece leaving a 1/4-in. border all around on the underside of the deck. This border must be kept free of varnish as it must be smeared with glue when the deck is being attached to the hull. Apply at least three coats of paint to the inside of the hull being careful not to smear any on the top edge where the deck is to be attached later. Attaching the Deck. Screw the jib rack in place on the underside of the deck (Fig. 30) using 1/8in. No. 1 screws. Figure 31 shows two types of jib travelers. Either type works very well. Mainsail travelers are made in the same way except they are 3/4 in. high instead of 3/8 in. as shown. The travelers may be fastened to the deck with small wood screws or small bolts. Fasten the deck to the hull with 3/4-in. No. 20 brads and casein glue which is applied to the underside border. Attach the covering boards with 1/2-in. No. 20 brads. The Hatch. The hatch may be elliptical (Fig. 32A) or square (Figure 32B). Fig. 32A shows a coaming around the hatch opening which has a rubber-band gasket stretched around it. The square hatch shown in Fig. 32B has structural members all around the hatch opening on the underside of the deck. This hatch is almost flush with the deck, being raised above the deck proper only by the thickness of the hatch-cover material. A rubber gasket should be placed between the hatch cover and the deck to prevent leaking. The hatch cap of either design is held in place by a spring or a rubber band attached to a wire hook which in turn is hooked into a Fig. 28 Page 18 screw eye in the bottom of the hull, as shown (Fig. 32A). Fig. 29-33 The Rudder Port. Drive the rudder port down through the deck and into the keel, allowing the tube to project 3/8 in. above the deck. from the topsides. The underwater paint should project about 1/4 in. above the floating water line of the hull. The Spars. For the spars choose good straight-grained spruce. Fig. 34 shows the mast. The rudder blade may be made of wood or metal. The wooden blade has a slight advantage in that its tendency to float reduces friction. The aft side of the mast to which the mainsail is attached is shaped perfectly straight. The details of the main boom are shown in Fig. 35 and those of the jib boom in Fig. 36. All collar fittings for the jib and main boom are made of different size tubing as specified on the drawings (Figs. 35A and 36). The fittings are completed by soldering small brass angle pieces to them. The brass angle pieces are made of 3/8-in. strips of 20-gauge sheet brass cut the proper length and bent in a vise. Drill the necessary holes in the angle brass after soldering it to the tubing. A 1/ 16-in. drill will take care of most holes. All the other fittings are made similarly. All collar fittings should be pinned to the spars to prevent any slipping or turning. The main-boom jack line is provided with a simple take-up so that the jack line can be kept taut at all times. Fig. 36A shows a simple tack hook made of a 1/2-in. No. 16 brad. The strap holding the tack hook is made of 20-gauge brass bent as shown and is attached to the jib-boom collar (at 5, Fig. 36A) by a 3/ 4-in. No. 16 brad. This tackhook arrangement provides a good swivel joint permitting the jib boom to swing without binding. Nonrusting brads should be used for all boat work. For one having metalworking equipment the metal blade is much easier to make. For either type of blade the stock should be made of 3/1 6-in. O.D. brass tubing with heavy walls. If the blade is of wood the stock should be drilled for the 1/4in. No 20 brads by which the stock is fastened to the blade. The heads should be countersunk slightly and then rounded off with a file. If a metal blade is used, bend 2 6-gauge, nonrusting sheet metal around the stock, and solder it on. The rudder is attached at the bottom as shown in Plate I. To prevent the rudder port from turning, a small plate should be soldered to it at the deck by which it may be fastened. The Adjustable Deck Mast Step. Fig. 33 shows a very popular type of adjustable mast step. The rack is made of a piece of T brass the required length, and slotted as shown. The mast ferrule has a slot which fits over the slotted T-brass rack and a pin which fits into the slots in the rack and holds the mast in position. A combination gooseneck and rubber kicking strap is shown in Figure 37. This type of kicking strap works very well and is less subject to damage because of its flexibility. The Final Hull Paint. Several coats of enamel or good marine paint should be used on the outside. It adds a great deal to the appearance of the mode! if the underwater body is painted a different color Page 19 mast and boom bands are all made of brass tubing1. The gooseneck is made of a 1/8-in. bronze rod which is slotted with a hack saw at both ends then drilled for the boom pin, the spacing pins, and the rubber-band attachment. The 1/8-in. rod is supported by 1/8-in. I.D. tubing pieces which are 1. Very similar fittings to those described here, and the small turnbuckles that Horst curiously omits from his description, can be had from A.J. Fisher, 1002 Etowah St., Royal Oak MI 48067, 810 541 0352 –Ed. soldered to the mast bands as shown. The rubber ends are held between two small metal pieces which in turn are held together by a small 3/64-in. bolt. With this arrangement the tension can be adjusted and the rubber can easily be renewed, which should be done every season. The spinnaker-boom gooseneck is made by soldering a piece of 3/ 32-in. I.D. tubing to the mast band in which the spinnaker eye pin turns (see Fig. 37). Fig. 37A shows a gooseneck with an extension to keep the boom from skying. It is very easy to Page 20 make and works very well. Solder a piece of 1/8-in. I.D. tubing 3/4 in. long to a piece of 1/2–in. I.D. tubing the same length into which the mast is fitted. At one end of a piece of 1/8-in. rod, 4 1/2 or 5 in. long, drill a 1/16in. hole and cut a slot about /4 in. deep with a hack saw. Then 1 in. from the saw cut make a right-angle bend parallel to the saw cut and at the other end bend a small hook. The 1/8-in. rod must turn freely in the 1/8-in. I.D. tubing. Out of a piece of 20-gauge brass cut a wedge-shaped piece about 1/8 in. wide and 1 1/4 in. long. Drill a 1/16-in. hole at the large end and drive the pointed end into the mast end of the boom. The collar will prevent the boom from splitting. When the boat is completely rigged attach a rubber band to the boom and gooseneck extension. A few trials wi11 determine the tension necessary to keep the boom from skying. This device works especially well because it swings with the boom. The spreader arms are made of 1/8 in. brass rod flattened at one end where small holes are drilled for the shrouds to pass through. The other ends of the arms are fitted snugly and soldered in place in holes bored into the collar which is a piece of tubing the proper size to fit over the mast (Fig. 3). Attaching the Mast Step. Fasten the mast step to the deck beams with 3/8-in. No. 3 flat-head wood screws. The Steering Device. The steering quadrant is of the Braine type and is made of 18-gauge metal cut as shown in Fig. 39. To the top side of the quadrant solder a short piece of tubing the proper diameter to fit very snugly over the rudder stock. The quadrant is attached to the rudder stock by means of a small pin for which a hole is drilled through both tube and stock. A series of small holes, 1/4 in. apart, are bored in the quadrant for the running-line hooks. The rudder port Page 21 should extend 3/8 in. above the deck so as to keep the tension rubber below any moving part of the quadrant. The rubber equalizer is made as shown in Fig. 39A, using a brass bolt. Fourteen inches of 1/8-in. round rubber is necessary for the tension requirements. This rubber should be renewed every season as it has a tendency to deteriorate. To do this simply loosen the small bolt and separate the plates (Fig. 39, Sec. A-A). The tension slide is made in two parts as shown so that each side has its own adjustment. The spacer blocks under the ends are used so the sliders will clear the Page 22 deck. By pushing the tension sliders to the extreme forward position the quadrant tail will be locked in position between them. To reduce friction between the tension rubber and the quadrant tail it is advisable to use a sheave as shown in Fig. 39B. The Sails. Since the sails are the only means of propulsion great care should be exercised in the selection of material, in laying out, in cutting, and in the sewing and hemming. Good sail material is rather expensive, but it pays to get the best. Any of the following are considered good: union silk, long cloth, Egyptian cotton, and balloon silk1. The yacht should have at least two suits of sails, or better still, three, to take care of various weather conditions. The No. 1 suit (Fig. 40) should be the full limit of the allowed sail area and be cut somewhat full to be used in light weather. The No. 2 suit should be perhaps 10 per cent smaller and cut with less roaching to make the sails more flat and to be used in heavier weather. The No. 3 suit should have about 20 per cent less area than the No. 1 sail and is for use in bad weather. It is important that the center of effort of suits 2 and 3 check exactly with the center of effort of suit No. 1, otherwise they will be out of balance. Rigging the Ship. Along the aft side of the mast and the top side of the main boom, arrange a series of small screw eyes, or staples, spaced as shown on the drawings, through which the jack lines are passed for attaching the sails to these spars (Figs. 34A and 35). The mast jack line extends from the top of the mainsail to 1/2 in. above the gooseneck and should have a take-up at the top as shown. These jack lines are made of stainless steel wire. The jack lines under the main and jib booms, which are used in adjusting sheet bowsers, are made of cord or fishline. They should have a second bowser at one end to hold the desired tension. Shrouds and stays when of strong cord or fishline should all have bowsers to hold the tension. Figures 41A and 41B show a flat and a ring bowser. If wire or airplane cable is used turnbuckles 1. All these are, alas, extinct. Kite shops are a good source of material, and note that the use of colored sails was common in this period. — Ed. are more practical. Chain plates (Fig. 42) may be screwed to the edge of the deck into the hull, or screw hooks, spaced as shown in Fig. 28, may be used for fastening the shrouds. Halyards may be made of strong fine cord or of fishline. Bowsers are again used to adjust the tensions. Running-line blocks must have free-turning sheaves and be located as shown in Figs. 28 and 39. The blocks may be attached to the deck with 1/8-in. No. 1 screws. The boom-running sheet block should be a double-sheave special block so that the sheet lines may be removed without unfastening anything. These are available at most model-boat supply houses. Running-line hooks are made of stiff 1/16-in. wire and bent as shown in Figure 39. For the sheets and the running lines use a light strong fish line2. Fig. 43 shows a fairIead through which the jib steering sheets pass. A good fairIead may be made of a piece of 1/8-in. brass tubing soldered to a small flat base 1/4 by 1/2 in. Fig. 44 shows a spinnaker hook made of a piece of stiff 1/16-in. brass wire soldered to a piece of brass 1/4 by 1 in. Spinnaker. The spinnaker is an additional triangular sail used when sailing before the wind. According to the rules the spinnaker has only two restrictions when used; namely, that its boom must not extend more than 15 in. beyond the center of the mast, and its height is limited to the top point of the forward triangle. These meager restrictions permit a great deal of leeway in the shape and the rigging of the spinnaker. Since each design has its own peculiarities under weather conditions various spinnaker arrangements 2. Nylon coated stainless cable for standing rigging is available from Small Parts, 800-220-4242, www.smallparts.com; braided dacron (Spectra) line for running rigging is available at kite stores. Both require swaged fittings as described in our Vol 2. No.1. Page 23 As a rule the spinnaker is made of the same material of a lighter weight than the regular working sails. A silk of the proper weight may be used. Figs. 69 and 70 give some suggestions for rigging the spinnaker. Fig. 47 gives a number of suggestions for the stand. Claude W. Horst should be tried out on a new model to get the most efficient sailing combination. The spinnaker is essentially a bellying sail and therefore all the edges should be cut with considerable outward curve. Fig. 46 shows a spinnaker drawing which may help as a suggestion. Page 24 The beating sheet is used when close hauled. This point of sail is also used to test and adjust the mast position. Jib steering is used on a narrow reach. Mainsail steering is used for the reach, broad reach, and run Page 25 Key to Fittings: 1. Jib Rack 2. Jib Boom 3. Jib Traveler 4. Mast 5. Blocks 6. Steering Quadrant 7. Jib Steering Sheets 8. Main Boom 9. Main Traveler 10. Beating Sheets 11. Running Sheets 12. Jibing Guy 13. Spinnaker 14. Spinnaker Boom 15. Spinnaker Sheets 16. Spinnaker-sheet Hooks 17. Rubber Band How the spinnaker is rigged. The jibing guy is used to come about in the middle of the pond. Page 26