The Model Yacht: Volume 7, Number 1 – Summer 2003

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, D.C. NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SEVEN, NUMBER ONE SUMMER 2003 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME SEVEN, NUMBER ONE SUMMER 2003 Editor’s Welcome I see it, but I have a hard time believing it -Volume Seven. This puts us second only to the AMYA Quarterly as the longest running model yachting journal in the United States. I certainly hope you have enjoyed reading them as much as I have enjoyed putting them together, and I thank all our members, past and present, for their support. It is our policy to keep all back issues in print, so if you are missing any they are available, postpaid, for $6.50 the single issue and $5.00 per issue for multiple orders. Orders can be sent to the editorial address. I think we have an interesting issue this time, with reports on the UK vs. the US free sailing regatta at San Francisco, the usual mix of technical material, and a nifty little 24 inch boat designed by William F. Crosby, father of the celebrated “Snipe” class of full-size boats. Our next issue promises to be something special. We are in the process of obtaining material on the very earliest days of radio sailing in the U.S. written by Francis Reynolds. Francis was the first radio sailing champion in the country and a great innovator. In addition I intend to cover the progress on “Yankee III” and what I’ve learned about a promising high-tech construction method. So check those mailing labels — if yours says “71” and there’s a subscription form and envelope in your newsletter, be sure and “reup” as you won’t want to miss that issue. Earl Boebert Ebbs and Flows The President’s Message Vintage Membership Annual membership $20 fee is for three issues of VMYG newsletter – The Model Yacht. Cost of US VMYG lifetime membership remains at $100. Members also have access to technical assistance and vintage model plans. These plans will eventually include those plans being electronically scanned. Our “how to” book and video package on plank-onframe construction is available separately. To subscribe to or renew our newsletter and services, please send $20 check (payable to US VMYG) or cash ($100 for life membership) to: John Snow, c/o US VMYG, 78 East Orchard Street, Marblehead, MA 01945. For inquiries, you can call me direct @781-631-4203 or visit VMYG Web Page at: www.swcp.com/usvmyg R/C Vintage M (VM) Regatta 2003 regatta is September 20-21 and is being hosted by Detroit MYC. It will have display/ racing competitions for VM model designs and for new category of vintage racing class models: 36-inch designs. For VM rating rules and model registration, contact Charlie Roden, VM Coordinator, at 732-462-7483 and cer@monmouth.com Detroit MYC contact is Alan Suydam at 248-476-3017 and asuydam@peoplepc.com Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Model Regatta Date/location for 2003 VMYG national racing and display regatta for R/C traditional/ scale models has changed to September 26-28 at Calvert Maritime Museum, Solomons, Page 1 MD. It includes scratch-built and kit schooner models, plus other traditional sailing designs such as Skipjacks. There will also be VM racing. George Surgent is onsite event coordinator at 410-586-1893/2700 and ssships@olg.com or ssships@comcast.net I am VMYG contact for this event at 781-6314203 and jsnow@drc.com Vintage Etcetera 2003 Woods Hole Model Boat Show Fourth biennial WH Model Boat Show survived very rainy weekend April 26-27 at Woods Hole, Cape Cod. Show featured large, indoor AMYA-VMYG exhibit (thank heaven), with AMYA open and J class regattas being somewhat curtailed by unkindly weather. I would like to thank following VMYG members for making this exhibit activity successful in spite of Mother Nature: Sue & Fred Abbe, Judy & Earl Boebert, Jim Dolan, Al Hubbard and brothers Rowland & Bill Hill and their spouses. MY Design Plans Preservation VMYG remains committed to long-term project to scan select, older MY design plans into electronic format for preservation. Our initial scanning effort of 20 notable MY designs from Houk collection has now been completed by David Kadonoff. Houk material has subsequently been signed over to Mystic Seaport Library. Another 40 older design plans from other sources have been identified for scanning later this year. 2003 USA/UK Challenge Regatta San Francisco MYC hosted British skippers in free-sail challenge regatta at Spreckles Lake, Golden Gate Park May 24-25. Results are elsewhere in this issue, but initial word leaked from “across the pond” indicated that Brits trounced host US skippers. 36-Inch Vintage Models Given the interest in 36- inch size of vintage sailing designs, VMYG has identified new Coordinator for this type model – Alan Suydam. Thus, Alan will be dual-hatted by also continuing as our Midwest Representative. Alan is teaching WoodenBoat School course in building 36-inch R/ C wooden model and will help to coordinate initial competition for these designs at 2003 national VM regatta. If their debut is successful, VMYG and Alan will then collaborate on appropriate set of rating rules for this design. Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Model Coordinator I am still filling Traditional Coordinator position on temporary basis. In order for this VMYG design grouping to maintain its visibility and grow, dedicated volunteer is needed to assume this key VMYG role. Thus, I request anyone with interest in these type models (schooners, Skipjacks, etc.) to consider volunteering for this position by contacting Earl Boebert or myself directly. Also, any volunteer would still have Harry Mote, our original Traditional Coordinator, available to consult, along with technical foundation Harry developed through networking and design specifications to build upon. John Snow UK-USA Challenge Cup 2003 Editor’s Note This article is reprinted from the newsletter of the San Francisco Model Yacht Club. The event it describes is the second round of what we hope will be a long series of transatlantic free-sailing contests. The first round was for M Class boats. After dealing with the difficulties of hauling boats of that size “across the pond” the participants agreed to change the event to the UK 36R Class. This class limits the hull to one that, without fittings, will fit in a box 36 inches long by 9 inches wide by 11 inches deep. Rig must be aluminum or wood, a bow bumper of up to one inch is excluded from the measurement, the maximum displacement is twelve pounds and there are no other restrictions. H.B. Tucker (of Daniels and Tucker) said that the 36R rule was one of the most difficult to design to, a conclusion with which I concur. Graham Reeves of the UK graciously helped “jump start” the US effort by sending over examples of two designs, called “Realistic” and “Extension.” Earl Boebert From “The Bamboo Breeze” This was the second UK-USA Challenge Cup and a record twenty-two 36R yachts competed. The UK team arrived Wednesday and unpacked a mix of high-tech, “Extension” and “Realistic” yachts and a couple of 1930’s woodies. It was evident from the start of practice on Thursday that we would have Page 2 our work cut our for us. Sailing for the UK board record for USA. We managed to finish were Graham Reeves, Russell Potts, Chris five rounds on Saturday and we spotted the Holbeach, Peter Hopkins, Liz Bandey, Martin UK team over forty points by then, as they Bandey, Lisa McKerchar, Mike Harris, Steve dominated the windward legs as much as we Poole, Dave Dickson, and Max Buttemere. dominated the leeward legs1. We countered with a mixed bag of three Back in the clubhouse and refreshed with 1930’s hulls with updated keels, for “Extenbeer and chips, races were rerun and the stosions,” and five custom built yachts, three ries spilled out. A vane was lost (twice, only Braine steered. Sailing for the USA were once recovered) by Max. Chris and Earl were Dave Sands, Drew Marshall, Mike Stobbe, busy dewatering their yachts and fighting Mary Rose Cassa, Ron Thornhill, Jeff Stobbe, leaks. Jim Harvey, Earl Boebert, Rod Tosetti, Ed Shoenstein, Jason Spiller, and Jim Hensel. Sunday came with the fog a little thinner and winds a little lighter and six rounds to go. Thursday saw several breakdowns. Russell Many people were at the lake having seen the Potts lost the rig on his “Realistic” yacht and coverage on Channel 5 and a mention in the the dinghy had to be launched to retrieve it. Chronicle. The UK team continued to domiThe deck was liftnate the winding off Chris Holward boards as we beach’s yacht and continued to domEarl Boebert was inate the leeward suffering a persisboards. Thus we tent leak in his gradually continyacht. All were ued to fall further successfully behind. Some repaired. fatigue began to Friday night after set in by the sixth practice everyone round but we finconverged on the ished all eleven Faste residence at for a complete Stanford Univermatch. Our startsity. Linda disers and scorers played Rolf’s great were Tony Marcollection of pond shall, Jean Nisbett yachts and also and Nelson served dessert and Chang and after coffee. Also help- Max Buttemere of the UK team adjusts his vintage 36R for a run tallying, the final ing entertain the while a skipper of the future looks on. (Judy Boebert photo) result was UK 366 Brits were Ed – USA 239. Almost Shoenstein who the equivalent of the 3-2 scoring. gave several tours, going as far as Muir If you can’t beat’m, join’m. Five UK yachts are Woods and Jim and Mel Harvey who took staying in San Francisco, three having been some sailing on the bay in their lovely yacht. bought by members, and two will be up for Saturday brought very foggy skies and a auction. Thus we have a hugely augmented modest breeze. The UK team came out in unifleet of 36R yachts and some great trial horses form jerseys to great acclaim. After much picto develop better boats against. ture taking and Channel 5 news team The yachts not sold were packed up, the coverage we were ready to sail. We did have clubhouse cleared and mainly through the the home field advantage and this was espeefforts of Ruth Wilhelmsen and Mary Rose cially evident on the leeward legs. To make the UK team feel at home we had a roundabout at the start and only the USA boats 1. Free-sail races are run as matches between could find the exit. The various puffs and two boats in two legs, one windward and one shifts of the wind caused “fits for the Brits”. leeward. The winner of the windward leg gets Mary Rose Cassa became the “cause celebre” three points, the winner of the leeward leg gets by achieving a perfect 22-point leeward two. — Ed. Page 3 Cassa a wonderful buffet set out, enhanced by Paul Staiger’s Cabernet Sauvignon. The UK-USA Challenge Cup was awarded to the UK along with a gift packet for each participant that included a framed picture of each competitor taken by Sam Weeks. Plaques were awarded to the top scorers. Pete Hopkins narrowly edged out Graham Reeves 48 to 46 for the UK. I just topped my brother Mike Stobbe 38 to 33 for the USA. The next UK-USA Challenge Cup will be sailed in England in late June 2005. I have eight yachts signed up, will you be there? ing what is called in mechanics an “over center lock.” This holds the rudder in position even though the beating sheet is slack going through the “eye of the wind” and does not “trip” or release the helm until tugged by the sheet on the opposite tack. I sailed an (over) simplified version of the gear at Spreckles this year, and even without the “trip” feature it performed somewhere in the order of fifty gyes without missing a one. Jeff Stobbe The object of this is to provide a more certain means of tacking off shore than is provided by the usual india rubber “gye” or “rudder gye.” This is attained by causing the main boom to pull the rudder over an amount, which is adjustable, to the side necessary to steer the boat up into the wind and to hold it there until the boom swings right back to the sailing side again and trips it off. In this it differs from the ordinary gye or rudder gye, as the action of these diminishes and dies out altogether as the boat comes head to wind, while the “trip gear” holds the rudder over, and so long as there is any weigh on at all it must continue to turn. After setting it at the start, there is no need to touch it when the boat comes ashore, it is just pulled round unless, of course, it is desired to alter the circle for which rudder is set and should the boat get accidentally on the wrong tack out in the middle the boom automatically sets the helm to steer it back. The action should be understood from the two little sketches. The chief and only additional member to the ordinary Braine gear is a little lever which turns on a pivot attached to the deck between the two sides of the tail part of the quadrant, which are The Davison Trip Tacking Gear Editor’s Note One of the great advantages of radio control is that you can sail on “one sided” ponds, that is, bodies of water that you cannot conveniently get all the way around. To sail a free sailing boat on such water requires a reliable method for “gyeing,” or tacking in the middle of the pond. A.C. Davison published this jewel of a mechanism in August of 1939, in the next to the last issue of Marine Models before it, and so much else, was suspended by the war. By 1945 the vane gear had superseded the Braine and this device was lost to history. Davison is not completely clear about what makes the “trip” mechanism work. If you look carefully at the second set of drawing you will see that the screw pivots slightly more than ninety degrees, mak- Earl Boebert The Gear Page 4 spread apart to make room for it. The lever has two arms for attachment of the beating sheet, either to port or starboard, as required, and at the back it has a screwed pin, which can be lengthened or shortened by the fingers. The whole thing turns through 90° to either side1. In the figure marked “beating,” the lever does nothing but provide an anchorage for the beating sheet, but in the “tacking” figure it has turned through a right angle, and the end of the screw has pushed the tail of the quadrant over a certain amount and holds it there until the boom returns to its original side and draws the lever back. To ensure that the end of the, screw shall not miss the wire sides of the tail, these have little vertical plates, about 1/4 in. wide, soldered to them, where required. The drawing looks rather complicated, but is really quite simple to make or to work, and should be easily understood if the principle is grasped-—most of the extra work arises from having to mount the lever on a bridge to allow the double rubber cord usually employed for centring to pass under. With a single cord attached to the tail of the quadrant, and pulling backwards only, which was the original Braine way, and worked quite well, the lever part could be simplified. It is quite likely that the arrangement could be simplified and improved by a person coming to it with a fresh outlook, but I can warn any experimenters that it is the result of about a dozen attempts, and they will be likely to find each brilliant idea accompanied by a nasty “snag.” A minor one, as it is, is that when running the lever does nothing, and may accidentally swing round and interfere with the steering. Many ways could be thought of to remedy this, such as an exceedingly light strand of rubber just enough to keep the screw normally amidships, but in practice I have got over it by leaving the beating sheet attached to the lever and slipping the loose part of it, when not in use, under one of a pair of little spring clips attached to the deck near the edge —port and starboard—pulling the sheet just tight enough to prevent the lever swinging very far either way. The whole thing, with the exception of the screw and its boss, is made of 22 gauge hard German silver2 sheet, and 14 gauge German silver wire and soft soldered joints are amply strong. 1. Actually, as the diagram and earlier text makes clear, more like 95°. — Ed. 2. Now generally known as nickel silver. -Ed Page 5 A. C. Davison (1939) Skylark Editor’s Note At first glance the 36R boats appear a bit unusual, but after you’ve studied them for a while they develop a kind of chubby charm all their own. And they do have the distinct advantage that they can fit in a case that can be flown across the Atlantic without incurring substantial excess baggage charges. F. C. Tansley was the Chairman of the U.K. Model Yachting Association and the Commodore of the Hove and Brighton Model Yacht Club. The design is typical of U.K. practice of the 40’s and 50’s in that it is an exercise in packing the maximum amount of sail on a 36” LOA boat which has an effective draft limitation of 8 to 9 inches. Earl Boebert Skylark “Skylark,”36 in. (restricted) class. M.Y.A. Registered. No. 435, May, 1939. In her first year she was first in three inter-club races at Hove versus Guildford, Littlehampton, and Blackheath, thrice first in local club fixtures; and Hove Club champion in 1939. Since the war she has been twice winner, in 1948 and in 1949, of the Premier Cinque Port Cup at Hastings, and is again club champion at Hove after a series of races in 1949. “Skylark” was designed for racing, and has proved very speedy especially on the reach and running when she has an easy habit of planing. Her stopwatch times for the 695 ft. Iength of the Hove Lagoon have averaged 2 min. 33 sec. on the run and broad reach. The boat was cut out in bread-and-butter fashion, and the entire construction with sailmaking took 300 hours. The main portion of the hull downward from the water line was a 2 in. piece of red cedar, above this were two 1 in. planks of white pine. The lead, brass shoe, and fastenings, weigh 6 l b. 12 oz. Total weight is now 1 1 lb. 14 oz. including a specially large fair weather suit of 1,000 sq. in. Stout construction and spars were considered necessary to meet hard usage at Hove Lagoon. the highest point of the deck line is allowed1. On the present boat there is no rail and the sheer is quite straight. The transom is 1 in. above water, and 7/10 in. under water—it should on no account be further immersed. Allow a safe margin on the “Box” limits, say 1/10 in.—remembering that models, like sportsmen, grow a little larger and weightier with age. Finish to design by applying cardboard shapes or moulds every 4 in. as shown: do not cut the sections exactly one by one in succession but rather work two or three moulds in unison gradually. At the last stages take long sweeps with a small plane set very fine, and follow with sandpaper (which I hold down with the pliable peak of an old cap or felt sole). Finally, when the moulds fit well, say “blow” to the designer, and trust to your eye and commonsense to make all curves and the finish sweet and comely— especially in the garboards and along the fin. Keel and Fin Use an ample quantity of lead, not less than 8 lb. for this boat. When shaping the streamlines of the fin and lead do so by working horizontally, and also downwards from the garboards so that the slight bulb of lead remains as low as possible at the midship line. Do not hurry adjustments or painting of lead until after sailing and weighing trials, as racing 36’s need careful tests for final trim. Sails Working suits Nos. 1, 2, and 3 are shown. An extra zephyr suit can be used— luff 56 in. boom 25 in. The after leeches of No. 1 and the larger suit are rounded, all other sails are cut with straight edges to save the nuisance of battens. The spars are solid; the lower mast has an aluminium 1/2 in. tube at height of No. 1 jib hoist, and the light topmasts are left laced to the mainsails in readiness. “Skylark” likes being driven hard, and can take large spinnakers without running under; she is docile under all conditions. Her lines are of the olden type—like those of the schooner “America,” the Polperro flyer, and many such with flat floors and long straight run. She has been a favourite with me for years and I hope will prove the same to others. F. C. Tansley (1950) Hull The boat should be carefully brought to the “Box” limitations of the rule—viz.: 36 in. Iength overall; beam 9 in.; depth 1 l in. A covering board or rail not to exceed1/8 in. above Page 6 1. This clause is no longer in the rule. — Ed. Page 7 What is striking about this design is its similarity in principle to Ted Houk’s “Rip Tide” of 1949, with its easy entry and long, flat floors. Both boats may have been influenced by Uffa Fox’s full size planing dinghy designs. Note also how the hull is designed to be tilted slightly in the “box” with the straight sheer parallel to the top. The wide transom indicates that Tansley went against the conventional wisdom of his day and sacrificed static balance for planing ability. The bowsprit is permitted because it is classed as a fitting and not measured. The modern freesailing 36Rs take advantage of this clause by hanging the vane off an outrigger on the transom. The use of multiple suits of sails for various wind conditions is a characteristic of the class and serious U.K. skippers will often have five, ranging from roughly 450 to 1100 square inches in area. The design should convert easily to radio with the skeg removed, the rudder moved aft as far as possible, and a slightly more modern sail plan. Definitely a set of lines worthy of careful study. Page 8 Page 9 John W. Cavileer was an industrial arts teacher in Montclair, New Jersey, and the author of Model Boat Building For Boys (1923). This is one of his most popular designs. Hundreds were made all across the country, and examples still turn up now and then in antique stores. This boat was intended as a first project for 9th grade students, and is still of interest as a good school project. The hull can be carved from a single block of wood and the fittings provide an easy introduction to cutting and soldering metal. Page 10 The 2003 USVMYG National Regatta will be at the participant’s expense. There are several fast food restaurants close to the regatta site and ample time will be given to 2003 marks the ninth annual regatta for the allow participants to get lunch and take a U. S. Vintage Model Yacht Group (USVMYG), break from sailing. DMYC members will which was founded in 1994 as a significant watch the boats and equipment during interest group of the American Model Yacht lunch. Association (AMYA).The first Vintage Marblehead regatta in Marblehead, MassachuDinner Saturday night will be at the Pontiac setts on June 24-25, 1995, and since then, Yacht Club in Orchard Lake, Michigan which annual Vintage Marblehead regattas have is about 15 miles from the regatta site. PYC been held in Marblehead, Massachusetts; was established in 1934 and is the home of Spring Lake, New Jersey; Port Washington, the largest Lightning fleet in the world with New York; Tampa, Florida; and Detroit, over 80 Lightning sailboats on the property. Michigan. They have just completed renovation of the clubhouse and it is a This year the nice quiet place to Detroit Model have dinner and Yacht Club will relive the day’s rachost the event for ing. Dinner is availthe second time on able at $25.00 per Friday through person and will be Sunday, Septembuffet style. Dress ber 19-21 2003. will be come as you New this year will are from the pond. be the trial incluParticipants should sion of a second sign up for dinner class of Vintage when sending in racing yachts, the their registration for 36” class. This class the regatta. was also actively raced in the early Trophies for the days of model regatta will be yachting, and sevawarded at the end eral designs have of Sunday mornbeen recently ing’s racing just located and conbefore lunch. structed for this is year’s regatta. If Dale and Pat Wenninger. Dale is holding the Marshall Croft Pre-registration required for this we have a success- Sportmanship Trophy, awarded to him by the USVMYG in and is ful turnout of 36″ recognition of the time, energy, and enthusiasm he has put regatta required to be yachts, the into his Youth Mentoring Program. received by SeptemUSVMYG might ber 15, 2003. There is a registration form in continue this class as part of the annual Vinthis issue and registration forms will be availtage regatta. able at the Detroit Model Yacht Club Web The venue, Joseph Delia Park, is one of the site: www.dmyc.org. best ponds to sail on in the Detroit area. It has Al Suydam an open plan with unobstructed wind from most directions. However, it does not have a well defined shoreline with either pond walls Steve Crewes Does It Again or launching dock, so participants would be well advised to bring boots to wade in to Model Racing Skiffs of Australia launch to models. Detroit Model Yacht Club A History members will also be available to launch First Sydney, then the rest of Australia. Steve models. has followed his ground breaking Sydney’s A list of hotels will be provided with your Model Racing Skiffs with an expanded look at confirmation for the regatta. Lunch both days Page 11 vintage sailing “Down Under.” In this new volume he covers the 18 and 32 inch classes, as well as 50 inchers, A Class boats, and the lovely Australian B Class. In the same picture-filled format as before, this volume also includes plans and colored renditions of the sail markings used by these clubs. It is available for $US20 postpaid to: Stephen Crewes PO Box 62 Hurlstone Park NSW 2193 Australia Earl Boebert inspiration Rolf brought to all his endeavors and to all those around him. He worked on our Centennial, was our photographer during our foray to the UK and opened his home and heart to club members. His collection and love of pond yachts is legendary. Rolf’s collection of historic pond boats and racing model yachts is very likely the largest anywhere. The collection is complete with an extensive library. The careworn and romantic patina that each boat had acquired over the years appealed to his heart. The aesthetic sensibility of small yachts that also had to perform appealed to Rolf’s designing eye. Every year he guided a group of Stanford students through the process of creating this sensibility. The resulting boats were launched on Spreckles Lake. Rolf was deeply interested in the relationship of the mind and body. To this end he practiced Zen and interpretive dance. Intelligent bodies and flexible minds naturally come together in aesthetics. This made for some interesting conversations while free sailing with Rolf. I will miss these conversations. I raise a glass of water to you, Rolf. Jeff Stobbe, San Francisco MYC The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Rolf Faste 1943 – 2003 Hardening of the categories leads to art failure -Rolf Faste Rolf Faste’s exuberant love of boats was infectious. So much so that his enthusiasm for a small boat shop in the medieval core of Stockholm inspired me to leave a very expensive tour and visit the shop. This happy Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Midwest Vice-President: Al Suydam Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Vintage M Class Coordinator: Charles Roden A Class Coordinator: Rod Carr U.K. Coordinator: Graham Reeves Canadian Representative: Doug McMain Historian: Earl Boebert Archivist: Jim Dolan Page 12 Upcoming USVMYG Events Entry Forms at Back of This Issue 2003 USVMYG Vintage Marblehead Regatta Sponsored by US Vintage Model Yacht Group Hosted by Detroit Model Yacht Club DATE: SITE: CLASSES: AGENDA: Friday through Sunday, September 19-21, 2003 Joseph Delia Park, Sterling Heights, Michigan Vintage M (Traditional and High-Flyer); Vintage 36 Friday, September 19 1300-1600 Open sailing and practice Saturday, September 20 0900 Skippers Meeting 0930-1200 Class Racing 1200-1300 Lunch 1300 Skippers Meeting 1330-1600 Class Racing 1900 Regatta Dinner at Pontiac Yacht Club Sunday, September 21 0900 Skippers Meeting 0930-1100 Class Racing 1200 Awards Ceremony 2003 USVMYG Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Model Regatta Sponsored by US Vintage Model Yacht Group Hosted by Solomons Island Model Boat Club and Great Schooner Model Society DATE: SITE: CLASS: AGENDA: Friday through Sunday, September 26-28, 2003 Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons, Maryland Skipjack 48, Vintage M (50/800), Schooners (2 classes) and Open Class Friday, September 26, 1000-1200 Tour of Calvert Marine Museum 1300-1600 Open sailing and practice 1700-1900 Social Hour under the Drum Point Lighthouse Saturday, September 27, 0900 Skippers Meeting 0930-1200 Class Racing Static Display Judging 1200-1300 Lunch 1300 Skippers Meeting 1330-1600 Class Racing Static Display Judging 1900 Regatta Bar-B-Que at Solomons Island Yacht Club Sunday, September 28, 0900 Skippers Meeting 0930-1200 Class Racing 1200-1300 Lunch 1300 Awards Ceremony Page 13 would make a fine member of our proposed 36″ Vintage class. Don’t let that full keel fool you — “Yankee III” has the same arrangement and turns on a dime. The design is also quite suited for a student project, to show how a boat goes together and how developed surfaces work. Our article is reprinted from a copy of Mechanix Illustrated for July 1944 which was in an advanced state of disintegration, hence the less-than-perfect drawings. It is reproduced here for noncommercial research and educational purposes. Earl Boebert The Model A Developed-Surface Sailing Model Editor’s Foreword William F. Crosby was the editor of Rudder magazine and a prolific designer and writer on small boat matters. He wrote two of the classics of the field, Amateur Boat Building and Racing Small Boats. He is perhaps best known as the designer of the celebrated “Snipe” onedesign class. Crosby wrote this article in 1944, when materials of all kinds were in short supply. Undaunted, he designed a model to be made from cardboard and cigar boxes. Today we can use 1/16 and 1/32″ aircraft plywood. The design is typical of Crosby’s work in that it gains stability from beam and hull form rather than weight. At 24″ LOA she would make a fine “swimming pool sailer.” With just a pound and a half displacement a radio installation would be a challenge. Scaled up to 36″LOA she During the past few years the writer has designed a considerable number of boats, sail and power, to be built from sheet plywood. As everyone knows, this material cannot be used where there are compound curves because you just can’t bend plywood, or anything else for that matter, into a compound curve without getting all sorts of bumps and buckles. In boats of this type, we have been using developed surfaces; conical, cylindrical, or some other form, which permit the use of sheet plywood without bumps or difficulty. Developed surfaces in themselves are nothing unusual — any high school boy or girl encounters them in geometry. The trick is to apply these surfaces to a boat and come out with something that resembles a boat. Obviously, we cannot develop the entire hull from side to side in one piece because there would be many compound curves, but if we take a vee-bottomed boat we can develop each side of the bottom and sides above the chines — each as a separate development, yet the whole thing going together to form a real boat. If we can develop a surface for sheet plywood, we can develop a similar surface to take steel or cardboard. As a result you see on these pages a vee-bottom sailing model, designed with developed surfaces and on Page 14 which it is possible to place ordinary three or four ply Bristol board (drawing paper) with the utmost ease. This means that such a model is a matter of three or four days to complete. It also has several other advan- tages. By using this material instead of the old fashioned method of whittling out from a solid block of wood, one can have a model that compares proportionately in weight Page 15 Page 16 Sections are approximately half size; measure after scaling and before transferring to wood. Plywood sections should have centers cut out to save weight. Page 17 Profiles are approximately 3/8 size; check dimensions before cutting wood. with a real boat. The result is a far better sailing model than any other of its type or size. Actually, this boat was designed in two or three evenings. The hull was constructed complete, ready for paint in one Sunday. The entire job was done in one week of spare time including sails and rigging. No so-called critical material is used and it is so simple to build that anyone should be able to do it. And does it sail? Even old time model men have been amazed at its performance. It won’t capsize because it will heel over in a puff and spill the wind off the sail. Of course models should be sailed in light airs, seldom more than five mile breezes for best results. In fact this little craft will move right along when the air is scarcely perceptible. The first step in construction is to make the lines full size. These may be drawn on an ordinary sheet of wrapping paper and the curves drawn in by using light strips of wood, called battens, fastened down with pins. Draw in the waterline first, then the station lines every four inches. Then from the waterline up lay off the bow and stern. Below the waterline draw the lines representing the keel. The wood on your fin keel is actually 3/ 4″ less than the dimension shown to the bottom of the drawing. This represents the lead weight. From the sections you can get the heights to the sheer and chine above the waterline and you can also get the lowest part of the hull-keel. On another piece of paper draw all the sections as shown. The trick now is to get these lines transferred to the wood. This is easily accomplished by putting a piece of carbon paper, face downward, under the drawing and on top of the wood. Sections or molds can be made from ordinary cigar box wood if you desire. In no case need they exceed 1/4″ in thickness. Plywood is not so good for making them even if you could get it. Draw the outline on top of your drawing and the carbon paper will leave the outline on the wood. Do the same with the outline of the keel. This member is one piece of wood from stem to stern about 3/8″ thick and 5/8″ up and down. The station marks should be drawn through at the same time as you make the rest of the drawing in order to locate your molds on the keel itself. Note that the aft end of the keel is cut off a little so that the stern or transom will come out, giving the boat the proper over-all length. How much you take off here depends on the thickness of the transom. Cigar box wood will make a handsome transom if you will take the trouble to sand it a little and give it several coats of varnish. The molds are notched to come down over the keel and are held in place with some of that good new waterproof glue (cascamite1) and a few brads driven in to hold them while the glue is setting. Note that the molds 1 and 2 are placed with their aft edges coming on the line of the mold. The molds 3, 4, and 5 are placed with their forward edges coming on the line of the mold. This is done to simplify any bevelling that may have to be done. The corners at the chine and sheer are next notched out to receive light battens about 1/8″ x 1/4″ which run all the way from bow to stern. These are shown clearly in the perspective drawing. The one at the sheer nearest to you in this drawing is shown only as a dotted line. The edges of the molds are bevelled off to the curve that these battens take and the bottom of the keel is also bevelled to the same amount of vee as appears in the bottom of the molds. When completed, the battens, molds and bottom of the keel should be an even curved surface. This will help you when you start putting on the Bristol board. There is considerable bevel at the bottom of the transom. Small brads, about 3/8″, are used to hold these battens in place to every mold and at the stem and transom. The Bristol board should go on next. Hold it with clamps up along the side of the boat so that it curves from bow to stern and covers one side from sheer to chine. Mark the edges along the battens. Then take it down and cut to shape, making it a little full so that the edges can be trimmed flush later on. While you’re at it, make a duplicate for the other side of the boat. Make it long enough so that it hangs out beyond the transom about a Page 18 1. Well, new in 1944. This is a one-part, water-resistant resin glue which comes as a powder to be mixed with water. Interestingly, Cascamite (now Examite) was the U.K. name for the material, which was sold in the U.S. under both the Weldwood and Elmer’s label. Much beloved by traditional boat builders and woodworkers. — Ed. here and there. Then coat the entire inside of the hull with the waterproof glue, letting it run in thick around the keel and chines. The next step is to cut out the wood fin keel. This is easy, using the piece of carbon paper and a small saw. Remember the 3/4″ at the bottom. This wood keel is nailed to the inside keel by putting the fin in a large vise and placing the model on top of it. Then nail down through the inside keel to the fin. Later on put some more glue around where the nails went through. Be sure that the keel is truly parallel to the centerline of the boat as otherwise your model may sail better on one tack than on the other. Now make the wood mold for the lead keel. Go to the five and ten and get about five or quarter of an inch. Now hold it up in place again and get the shape of the stem. Hold it carefully and mark it as exactly as possible. The Bristol board will come even with the leading edged of the stem. Of course, your stem has to be bevelled off the same as the bottom of the keel. Now paint some glue along the outboard faces of the battens and along the edges of the frames. Do only one side and get your Bristol board in place as quickly as possible because the glue loses its grip if you leave it too long. Use clamps, spring clothespins or anything else that’s handy to hold the Bristol board in place. Then start at one end and drive a 1/4″ flat head nail about every 3/8″ along both chine and keel. Don’t use brads for this as the heads may pull through the Bristol board. When this side is completed, put the piece on the other side of the model. You will find, if you have done your work properly, that this paper will lay smooth as silk — developed surfaces! The same procedure is carried out for the two bottom pieces. One will overlap the other and glue should be smeared on the surfaces. Don’t forget to put glue along the underside of the keel and along the chine. When in place, nail up the way you did the topside piece. Don’t put any nails where the rudder stock comes through as you’ve got to drill a hole there later on. When all the paper is on and the glue has set, cut off excess paper that may be sticking out six 8 oz. sinkers. Melt in a frying pan on the kitchen stove1 and pour into the mold. It will char a little but will do no harm. When cool, take the mold apart and nail the lead to the bottom of the wood fin by coming up through the lead into the wood. You can drive a nail through the lead quite easily. Don’t try to drill it or you may break the drill. Page 19 Next drill the hole for the rudder port. A small piece of gasoline tubing will do in here. The hole must be tight and when the tube is in place, run some glue around it. The tube should be long enough to extend about 1/4″ above the deck. Be sure that the hole for the rudder tube is parallel to the aft end of the fin keel. Make the rudder, rudder stock, etc. as shown in the figure. Put it in place and drive a small screw eye at the bottom to hold it there. It should be free turning. Now paint the entire inside of the hull with a heavy coat of enamel. Let it lie thick around the keel and chines so no water can ever get through or affect the paper. The Bristol board deck should go on next, but not until you have run the mast support piece as shown. This may be 1/4″ thick and 3/4″ wide. It runs from mold number one to number three. It is notched into the molds and glued and nailed. All the tops of the molds, this piece, and the top of the transom should be faired off smooth. Then put the Bristol board in place using plenty of glue along the edge and across the top of each mold. Nail it in place the same way that you did the sides and bottom. Go over the outside of the hull and file off any nail heads that are not flush with the paper, making sure not to dig into the paper while so doing. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper and give the entire hull a coat of flat white paint. If you intend to varnish the transom do this before painting and let it dry; then if you spill any paint on it, it may be wiped off easily. Rub down the outside of the hull when the first coat has dried and then apply a second coat of flat. Do this again when dry until you get a nice even surface for the final coat of white enamel. Make the mast as shown in the details of the figure. It should be placed as closely as possible to where it is indicated on this plan. The foot of the mast sits on top of the deck on a small block of wood which is screwed to the 1. Crosby must have been a bachelor, or had a very understanding wife. In any case, keep the lead out of the kitchen. If you are going to pour, observe all eye and skin protection, make sure that no water is anywhere near where you are working, and do it outdoors or in an area with plenty of ventilation. Thom McLaughlin’s trick of using lead flashing from a roofing supply would work well here. — Ed. fore and aft strip under the deck. The figure gives the dimensions of the mast and boom and also sections through them. The spreaders are shown also. For rigging use some light galvanized solid wire if you have some around but if not use fish line. The sails are made of muslin or anything else that is handy and are made to the dimensions shown when finished. Actually, the cloth should be cut a little larger and hemmed all the way around1. Instead of sewing the sails to the mast and boom in the usual manner, on this job, a small piece of wire was stretched along the top of the boom and another along the after side of the mast. The sails were sewn to this. The jib is, of course, sewn to the jib stay. Most models when the start to sail carry a very bad weather helm and try to come into the wind all the time. This one is extremely well balanced and not apt to do it unless knocked down by a heavy puff. In order to overcome any tendency in this direction the simple little device shown in the figure was used. A small piece of wire was soldered to the top of the rudder stock with about 1 1/2″ sticking out aft and about 1″ sticking out forward. Each end was made up into an eye. The after end was connected by the main sheet to the end of the boom. The other end had a small elastic band in the eye with a piece of light twine running up to the mast. Now, when she got a knock down, the pressure on the boom and sail caused the reversed tiller to pull off to the leeward side. This kept her bow off and prevented coming up into the wind. When the puff eased off the elastic band brought the rudder back to the centerline. William F. Crosby (1944) Erratum: Never Trust a Drawing An alert reader noticed that distortion had crept into the full-size sections given in the last issue. A corrected version appears on the next page. And remember, always check drawings, especially old ones, against their stated dimensions. Earl Boebert 1. 3/4 oz. ripstop nylon, available at any kite store, will serve well. It does not have to be hemmed or cut with a hot knife. — Ed. Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Thomas Moore was a naval architect who worked for the U.S. Navy Department in Washington, D.C. In 1928 he published Build a Winning Model Yacht, which is one of the classics in our field. This design appeared in the book. It is notable in the way the tumble home adds interest to what otherwise would be a rather dull scow-type hull. The deep spade rudder is also ahead of its time. The boat is actually 32″ LOA, not 30 as the legend indicates. The profile is approximately 1/4 size and the sections are about half scale. The boat can be easily carved from a single block of wood or done with fiberglass over balsa planking. The latter would leave enough spare displacement for a lightweight radio rig.