The Model Yacht: Volume 14, Number 1 – Summer 2010

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, DC NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME FOURTEEN, NUMBER ONE Summer 2010 Page 1 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME FOURTEEN, NUMBER ONE Summer 2010 Editor’s Welcome In my old line of work, surprises (usually unpleasant) were known as “hooda thunkits.” Well, who would have “thunkit” that we would keep this little journal going for fourteen years? Not me, and I am very gratified for your support. The main article this issue is on Claude Horst’s 1939 Marblehead. We ran a version of this almost 10 years ago; we’ve learned a lot since then, especially about enhancing images and drawings, and since we have many new readers we thought it deserved a fresh treatment. Ken Love of Florida has made available to us a set of copies of the old MYRAA publication Model Yachting Monthly. In the past we’ve been working off photocopies that Charlie Williamson had made in the earliest days of our group. Now that we have originals, we can run crisp photos like that of Playmate. Expect to see much more from this material in the future. Ken also has a very nice free sailing Marblehead for sale. Ken can be reached at 1- 352-753-9785. Earl Boebert Ebbs and Flows The President’s Message Vintage Membership US VMYG annual membership is $25 for three issues of our newsletter “The Model Yacht”. It is $30 for members outside the US. The VMYG lifetime membership is $125. Besides insightful articles on vintage models and model yachting history, our members have access to technical assistance, model plans, and early notification of and reports on VMYG-sponsored events. To subscribe to or renew your newsletter and services membership, send $25 or $30 check (payable to US VMYG) or cash to: John Snow, c/o US VMYG, 78 East Orchard Street, Marblehead, MA 01945. For more information you can call John @ 781-631-4203 or visit the VMYG Web Page: www.usvmyg.org 2010 VMYG National Regatta The VMYG will stage its 16th annual “Vintage Model Yachting Days” National Regatta for VM, V36 and Traditional Sailing Craft/ Scale R/C models July 22-25 at the Mystic Seaport Museum for the first time. It is on the same weekend as the Seaport’s Antique and Classic Boat Rendezvous (ACBR) for full-size craft. We expect this will help increase interest in our regatta, given there is synergistic Page 2 design relationship between these activities. Thus, regatta participants are invited to join ACBR attendees at their dinner Saturday night at the Seaport. In addition, we have made conscious effort to attract R/C vintage powerboat-designed models given the ACBR focus on these types of craft. There will be series of model displays in our 24’ x 44’ enclosed exhibit tent on Seaport grounds linked to historic full-size vessels and yachts. VMYG member Bill Huizing’s museum-quality, 88-inch R/C model of Seaport’s famous 1841 Charles W. Morgan whaler will be our flagship model on display and be the lead model for our first-ever “Parade of Model Boats” on Saturday. As example of its detailed craftsmanship, each whaleboat model required 140 hours to scratch-build. When not sailing at special events, this model is on display in the Seaport’s Visitors Reception Center. Bill may bring his 1910 R/C Elsie fishing schooner from NJ as well, which is the sister-ship of the Seaport’s L.A. Dunton fishing schooner. Also, Alan Suydam will display his Traditional Sailing Craft champion R/C model of the Seaport’s equally renowned 1932 Brilliant schooner yacht. We plan on eclectic mix of displays featuring sail and power models. These will be: 1) WoodenBoat School VM and V36 model building courses taught by Thom McLaughlin and Alan Suydam, 2) Model yachts of Herreshoff designs – 1893 Gloriana and 1899 Columbia, 3) Earl Boebert’s Yankee III V36 model based on the 1930 Yankee J Boat along with Earl’s “how to” building book, and 4) Select examples from the R/C model collections of VMYG members Fred Abbe, Andrew Charters, Al Hubbard and Tod Johnstone. Other large traditional craft/scale models will be accommodated in the tent for overnight storage/security on space available basis. John Snow is coordinator of tent displays and R/C powerboat model demonstrations in the Seaport’s new 40’x60’ freshwater R/C model pool. If you have questions on these activities, please contact John at 781-631-4203 or demonstrations for visitors in Seaport’s 40’x60’ pool with its 23-inch depth. This will be done in conjunction with the Seaport’s season-long exhibit on American tug boats which our regatta participants can view along with related R/C scale tug and barge model demos performed in this pool from 10AM to 4PM daily. Our Friday evening picnic will be at Tod Johnstone’s home in Mystic this year. Attendees will have the unique opportunity to view his expansive collection of scratch-built R/C models as well as his model yacht clubhouse on the nearby pond. America’s Cup Hall of Fame AMYA J Class Model Display VMYG member Fred Abbe’s highly-detailed R/C J Class Enterprise model remains on display through the 2010 season at the ACHF, which is co-located with the Herreshoff Marine Museum in Bristol, RI. Model was scratch-built in 2001 from late 1970s molded J fiberglass hull by Tod Johnstone. It has highly realistic hull, deck and sail rig configurations plus a keel with internal mounted centerboard based on the designs in Harold Vanderbilt’s 1931 “Enterprise” book. VMYG “How To” Model Books Visit the VMYG website for details on ordering our “how to” vintage model building books and video authored by our Historian Earl Boebert. These are based on the wooden plank-on-frame method to construct 1940s era model yacht racing class designs (with video) using modern adhesives, plus our “Yankee III” book describing the J Class history and modern building techniques with an available molded hull for an R/C 36-inch model of the 1930 Yankee J Boat design. Yankee III model is based on the 1935 plans by John Black which qualifies as R/C Vintage 36 (V36) design for VMYG events. jsnowj@comcast.net The Marine Modelers Club of New England (MMCNE) has been invited to display their beautiful scale/semi-scale R/C models in the exhibit tent and perform powerboat model Page 3 John Snow A sinking recalled, yawl(ing) about, a pickle in the bath, and a reminder to myself to one day evict Oskar! isasters at “sea,” they do happen in the model yacht world more often than one would believe, but the trouble is that most times when water gets inside the boat, the man sailing it at the pond or lake edge rarely takes the photograph because he hasn’t got his camera and he’s too damn busy anyway. My friend, Tony Searle in Poole, Dorset in the UK watched his Thames sailing barge Serenie take in water and roll some years ago and either he or someone else took a series of photos, one of which I share with you good folk in this issue. This is just to remind you that it happens. My late friend, John Spencer the yacht designer had a favourite saying, which was, “keep the water outside the boat where it belongs!” (He used to say it best after he poured his fifth Gilbeys gin !) Robert Fisher’s Marybeth. Y’all take note now, please, yawls appear to be in vogue again in the model yacht world. Everyone has heard of Dorade one of the prettiest and competitive yawls of them all which the late Olin Stephens designed in his early days. She’s still around today having outlived her designer. A quite magnificent model of the boat has been built by Helmut and Gisela Scharbaum of Germany who sail at Minisail events in Europe. The photograph on the facing page is yet another stunning one by Hans Staal of the Netherlands. The model ? Well you chaps form your own opinions. Serenie in the Straits of Dire A second RC yawl has been around for some years in California. Built and owned by Robert Fisher, the 50” on deck model shown is of his Marybeth. The real boat which in earlier Page 4 that spurred Robert towards making the much prized model. I was delighted when “he who reads this publication” made contact with me which has enabled me to include the model of Marybeth. Another friend, square rigger man Neville Wade in UK has a model of Sheila the Albert Strange designed yawl, there are two more yawl RC models being built elsewhere that I know of and a further one “being talked about”…you know, “I’m talking about it cos I’m mulling over the possibility of giving some serious thought to considering building one” – you get the picture ? “I must go down to the pond again…” years three generations of the Fisher family have been associated with was that catalyst I’ve got a lovely little yawl myself, one built by Roy Lake that I’m hoping to re-fit with radio and perhaps get sailing again one day before I say goodbye to y’all and depart for personally unfamiliar shores, meanwhile, Oskar, a wee sort of “relative” mouse uses the cabin most nights. (Must serve a rodent eviction notice and get it done soon.) If I knew what I was doing in the “boat repair and fix em arena” I’d be downright dangerous. I’d have jobs that needed doing done before they needed doing !) A magnificent Dorade, by Helmut and Gisela Scharbaum. Hans Staal photo. Page 5 And so onwards we windle, neath tropic sun, enthusiastic ones through storms cloud weep, trim the sails and rudder brudder, you’ve got no udder way to pukka steer this model o’er ponds deep South end of Northbound Oskar One does not usually carry a pickle into ones bathtub does one ? (Oh, I don’t know, they are fabulous for poking up the ears to clear the wax ! I’ve been told !) This one shown in the photograph as it floats in his Falmouth,Cornwall bathtub was built by a dear friend, Ken Impey and is an RC model of the replica Pickle. (A warning here, check with the Harbour Master before you lower your model into the Missus bath !) The actual near fullsize HMS Pickle replica was built in 1995 for the Battle of Trafalgar Bicentenary. Mark Steele HMS Pickle in the bath. Not to be confused with HMS Bath in a pickle. Page 6 A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht body, and one about halfway forward to the bow, which defines the forebody. Everything in between is derived from the process of fairing with battens. Editor’s Note To carve using this method, you first carve to the center master section, leaving the surfaces parallel, so that it looks as if you had bent a sheet to that shape. Then you do the afterbody, carving in the curve of the hull and checking often with both battens for fairness and against the afterbody master section template. If there is a dispute, the battens win. Then you do the forebody in the same fashion. If you choose to proceed in this way, Station 6 would be the center master section, Station 10 would define the afterbody, and Station 2 the forebody. laude William Horst was an industrial arts teacher in Milwaukee, WI, who used power and sail boats as projects for his students. He wrote several books containing plans and instructions for well thought out models. In 1939 he published a large format pamphlet from which this article is drawn. Along with John Black’s classic Yachting with Models, this slim volume represents the most comprehensive description we have of building and sailing an M Class boat of the Braine steered era. Horst’s diagrams for trimming and adjustment remain definitive. Horst’s construction method of carving a hull in halves and then gluing them up on a backbone was criticized by some as admitting the possibility of warpage. With today’s epoxies, and the use of aircraft ply for a backbone, that is no longer a concern. Horst described a fairly hair-raising set of steps for casting a lead keel in a box mold made from plaster of paris. We no longer consider this a wise or safe procedure, so we’ve omitted it from the description. There are several alternatives, all made simpler by the straightforward shape of the keel. Sheet lead is still available from scrap yards and roofing suppliers (where it is known as “flashing”) in some areas. A keel of the proper shape can be laminated and planed to shape with a sharp wood plane lubricated with plenty of mineral oil. As always when working with lead, wear gloves and clean up well before eating -you only get poi- Horst describes a traditional method of establishing hull shape using templates at each station. A better method of obtaining a fair hull is based on the observation that a hull is defined by three master sections, one at the center, which defines the basic shape, one about halfway back toward the stern, which defines the after- Page 7 Fig. 1 soning if you ingest it, either by eating or breathing the fumes of molten lead. cloth such as lightweight dacron or nylon spinnaker cloth. A second method is to make a fiberglass shell and fill it with a lead shot and epoxy mixture. Such a mixture has about half the density of solid lead, so you will have to double the volume of the keel by increasing both the depth and the thickness. A pattern can be carved from blue insulating foam and covered with fiberglass, then dug out, with the remainder removed by dissolving in acetone. This only works if you use epoxy resin. Several of these boats have been built by members, and they all sail well. We now hand you over to Claude Horst. A final method is to locate some scrap bronze or copper and laminate up a core shape, molding the outside with a good epoxy putty such as Aquamend. In all cases the boat has liberal overhangs so the exact amount of ballast is not critical. Horst, of course, described the making of sewn sails using lightweight cloth that is no longer available. If you wish to sail your boat as a Vintage M, then the rules call for woven A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht Practically any fine-grained light-weight wood is suitable for the hull lifts. For the backbone, which consists of the stem, keel, and horn timber, a hard wood such as a finegrained walnut mahogany, birch, or some similar wood, should be used. The model described here is made up of two completely finished halves. Each half in turn is made of lifts, or layers, and not until the two halves are entirely finished are they attached to the backbone to make a complete hull. Lift Templates For an accurate job it is advisable to make templates for all lifts of thin plywood or cardboard. Since all the half-breadth dimensions given on Table I are taken from the cen- Page 8 ter line, which includes half of the keel structure, it is much easier to make the templates to include half the keel so the dimensions can be used as they appear in the table and then later remove a 1/8-in. slice which represents the keel. Plate I. Developing a Template Figures 1A, B, and C, show how to develop the template for lift 7. Locate the positions of the stations on the template stock (Fig. 1A), using the dimensions as given in the Table of Offsets. With the aid of a try square draw lines through these points and across the template stock (Fig. 1B). The distance given in the halfbreadth table for these stations should be measured from the working edge (Fig. 1C). With the aid of a batten, about 1/8 by 3/16 in. and 4 1/2 ft. long, tacked along the points just measured, draw a line through the points. Cut the template on the outside of the line and finish to it. Remove the 1/8-in. strip, which represents the keel thickness, and the template for lift 7 is ready to use. All other lift templates are made likewise. The Lifts Select fine-grained, well-seasoned material, finished to 3/4 in. thickness. One of the edges of the lift stock must be perfectly straight and at right angles with the flat surfaces. This edge will be used as the working edge. Place the straight edge of the template along this edge of the lift stock and draw the outside curve of each lift. Cut away the surplus material and finish very carefully to the line with a plane or a disk sander. After the outside curves of all the lifts have been finished check each one of them with its mate to see that they are identical. Then mark station 6 very accurately according to Plate I on all lifts. Following the same drawing, mark the interior cuts of all the lift pieces carefully and lay out a lug about 1 in. wide to Page 9 be left at station 6 on lifts 4, 5, 6, and 7. In cutting out the interior of the lifts leave the lugs (Fig. 2) and save the interior stock as it must be put back into its original place for the gluing-up process. By this method no distortion can take place when the clamp pressure is applied. Shellac the interior pieces to prevent glue from adhering to them. rack. Lift 8 is continued full length for gluing with a spacer piece exactly the same thickness as the lift 8 stock. Adjust the lines of all the lifts at station 6 making a straight line across the Fig. 2 entire structure (Fig. 3). Mark the overlapping of all the lifts and apply glue to all the contact surfaces. Place all lifts from 1 to 8 back on the rack with the interior pieces in place and if necessary nail the front and aft ends of each lift to the rack Gluing the Lifts Together. Fig. 3 To simplify the gluing process make a rack of heavy material as shown in the Figure. The by driving small nails through the lower corners of the lifts so that the nail holes will be Fig. 4 pieces are glue fastened and they must make a right angle with each other. Mark station 6 on the edge of each outside lift curve and place all the lifts for one hull half on edge and in their proper order on the removed when the halves are shaped to profile. See that the center lugs are in contact with the rack when the clamp is being applied at the center. Then the rest of the clamps should be applied. Figure 4 Page 10 Station Templates 1/2 Full Size Page 11 Fig. 5 shows all clamps in place and Figure 5 shows the interior of the glued-up lifts. (Fig. 8). The previous page gives half-sized station Fig. 6 The second hull half is assembled in the same manner. Be sure that its lifts are arranged to make a hull half for the opposite side. curves from which station templates may be enlarged and transferred to the template stock. Locate the stations on the hull accord- Fig. 7 Shaping the Outside. First shape both hull halves according to profile as shown in Plate I, which includes ing to Plate I and shape the outside to fit the various station templates as they are applied to their proper places on the hull. Figure 9 shows the application of a template. Fig. 8 shaping the deck sheer line and the rabbet line. Figure 6 shows a batten tacked along the deck sheer to aid in marking it. Figure 5 shows the rabbet line marked at both ends. Figure 7 shows a half shaped to profile. To aid in shaping the contour of the outside, screw a lug to the hull halves by which they may be held in a vise Shaping the Inside. To shape the inside, clamp the hull half to the bench top. Then use wedges, lugs, and other clamps to hold the job securely in position (Fig. 12). Check freFig. 9 quently for an even thickness. Outside calipers are a great help for this work. It is very little trouble to remove Page 12 the hull half for checking since only one clamp is needed to hold it in place. To aid in assembling the hull halves, lugs are left along the keel edge to which clamps are applied later in assembling the two halves. Figure 11 shows a hull half ready for the fin to be attached and shaped later as shown on Plate I. Fig. 10 out. outside of the backbone, including the top of the stem, but do not cut off the stem top at this time. Shape the transom and finish the inside by removing the clamp lugs or the clamp ridge, as the case may be. Figure 14 shows the hull completely shaped both inside and The Backbone Structure. Rudder-Port Hole. Cut the backbone structure somewhat oversize to start with as shown in Figure 12. The backbone is made of three pieces and fastened to either one of the two halves with glue and 1/2-in. No. 20 brads. The bottom edge of the keel must be even with the bottom of the hull half fin to which it is being fastened. Drill the hole through the hull for the rudder port which is made of 3/16-in. I.D. tubing as shown on Plate I. [At this point the 9 lb 12 oz ballast should be preFig. 11 pared by one of the methods described in the Editor’s Note and fitted to the hull to insure a fair and smooth joint. -Ed.] Fig. 12 Fastening the Hull Halves Together. Trimming the Boat for Lateral Balance. Apply glue to the keel surface of the second hull half and to the keel which is already attached to the first half. Place the two halves against each other on the bench top making sure that both halves are even at the bow. Apply the necessary clamps, using several on the fin. Figure 13 shows a cross section Fig. 13 through one set of lugs. Remove the ballast and apply at least two coats of paint to the outside of the hull. After the last coat is dry attach the lead again and place the hull in a tub of water to check for lateral balance. Since the mast, rigging, deck, and deck beams are not in place the hull will float higher than shown on the drawing. If the thickness of the hull shell is as shown on the drawing, this will be about 3/32 in. at the bow and 1/16 in. at Completing the Shaping. Trim and shape the entire Page 13 Fig. 14 the stern. If the hull floats slightly too deep after all the rigging is attached the balancing may be perfected by using a file and removing the slight excess from the fin. If one end or the other floats too deep for correction the lengthwise structural members under the mast step (Fig. 17). The deck is made of 1/8in. board or 1/16-in. plywood. To determine its shape it is advisable to fit a template of heavy paper to the hull and mark out the Fig. 16 pattern will have to be changed and the ballast reshaped. Fitting the Deck and the Deck Beams deck piece from it. Cut holes in the deck piece for the hatch and a slot for the jib rack (Figs. 16 and 18). Rabbet the top edge of the hull so the deck will fit as shown below. Put in the deck beams placing them as shown, and notching them into the hull (Figs 15 and 16). Add two Fig. 15 Fig. 17 Page 14 The Rudder Port. The Hatch. To cut the hole for the rudder port, tack the deck piece temporarily in place, and spot the hole by pushing the rudder tube, which at this stage should be extra long through the hole already drilled through the bottom of the hull. When the end of the tube comes into contact with the deck, tap the other end with a hammer so that an impression will be left on the deck piece. This locates the fore and aft position of the tube. Draw a center line on the deck piece and, whether the impression is exactly on the center line or not, drill the hole on the line. Apply at least three coats of spar varnish to each side of the deck piece leaving a 1/4-in. border all around on the underside of the deck. This border must be kept free of varnish as it must be smeared with glue when the deck is being attached to the hull. Apply at least three coats of paint to the inside of the hull being careful not to smear any on the top edge where the deck is to be attached later. Attaching the Deck. Screw the jib rack in place on the underside of the deck (Fig. 18) using 1/8-in. No. 1 screws. Figure 19 shows two types of jib travelers. Either type works very well. Main- Fig. 18 Fig. 20B Fig. 19 sail travelers are made in the same way except they are 3/4 in. high instead of 3/8 in. as shown. The travelers may be fastened to the deck with small wood screws or small bolts. Fasten the deck to the hull with 3/4-in. No. 20 brads and casein glue which is applied to the underside border. Attach the covering boards with 1/2-in. No. 20 brads. The hatch may be elliptical (Fig. 20A) or square (Figure 20B). Fig. 20A shows a coaming around the hatch opening which has a rubber-band gasket stretched around it. The square hatch shown in Fig. 20B has structural members all around the hatch opening on the underside of the deck. This hatch is almost flush with the deck, being raised above the deck proper only by the thickness of the hatch-cover material. A rubber gasket should be placed between the hatch cover and the deck to prevent leaking. The hatch cap of either design is held in place by a spring or a rubber band attached to a wire hook which in turn is hooked into a screw eye in the bottom of the hull, as shown (Fig. 20A). Page 15 The Rudder Port. Drive the rudder port down through the deck and into the keel, allowing the tube to project 3/8 in. above the deck. The rudder blade may be made of wood or metal. The wooden blade has a slight advantage in that its tendency to float reduces friction. For one having metalworking equipment the metal blade is much easier to make. For either type of blade the stock should be made of 3/1 6in. O.D. brass tubing with heavy walls. If the blade is of wood the stock should be drilled for the 1/4-in. No 20 brads by which the stock is fastened to the blade. The heads should be countersunk slightly and then rounded off with a file. If a metal blade is used, bend 26-gauge, nonrusting sheet metal around the stock, and solder it on. The rudder is attached at the bottom as shown in Plate I. To prevent the rudder port from turning, a small plate should be soldered to it at the deck by which it may be fastened. The Adjustable Deck Mast Step. Fig. 21 shows a very popular type of adjustable mast step. The rack is made of a piece of T brass the required length, and slotted as shown. The mast ferrule has a slot which fits over the slotted T-brass rack and a pin which fits into the slots in the rack and holds the mast in position. Fig. 21 Final Hull Paint. Several coats enamel or good marine paint should be used on the outside.It adds a great deal to the appearance of the model if the underwater body is painted a different color from the topsides. The underwater paint should project about 1/4 in. above the floating water line of the hull. The Spars. For the spars choose good straight-grained spruce. Fig. 22 shows the mast. The aft side of the mast to which mainsail is attached is shaped perfectly straight. The spreader arms are made of 1/8 in. brass rod flattened at one end where small holes are drilled for the shrouds to pass through. The other ends of the arms are fitted snugly and soldered in place in holes bored into the collar which is a piece of tubing the proper Fig. 22 size to fit over the mast (Fig. 23). The details of the main boom and jib boom are shown in Fig. 24. All collar fittings for the jib and main boom are made of different size tubing as specified on the drawings . The fittings are completed by soldering small brass angle pieces to them. The brass angle pieces are made of 3/8-in. strips of 20-gauge sheet brass cut the proper length and bent in a vise. Drill the necessary holes in the angle brass after soldering it to the tubing. A 1/ 16in. drill will take care of most holes. All the other fittings are made similarly. All collar fittings should be pinned to the spars to prevent any slipping or turning. The main-boom jack line is provided with a simple take-up so that the jack line can be kept taut at all times. The jib boom drawing shows a simple tack hook made of a 1/2in. No. 16 brad. The strap holding the tack hook is made of 20- Page 16 Fig. 23 gauge brass bent as shown and is attached to the jib-boom collar (at 5) by a 3/ 4-in. No. 16 brad. This tack-hook arrangement provides a good swivel joint permitting the jib boom to swing without binding. Non-rusting brads should be used for all boat work. A combination gooseneck and rubber kicking strap is shown in Figure 25. This type of kicking strap works very well and is less subject to damage because of its flexibility. The mast and boom bands are all made of brass tubing1. The gooseneck is made of a 1/8-in. bronze rod which is slotted with a hack saw at both ends then drilled for the boom pin, the spacing pins, and the rubber-band attachment. The 1/8-in. rod is supported by 1/ 8-in. I.D. tubing pieces which are soldered to the mast bands as shown. The rubber ends are held between two small metal pieces which in turn are held together by a small bolt. With this arrangement the tension can be adjusted and the rubber can easily be renewed, which should be done every season. Page 17 Fig. 24 The spinnaker-boom gooseneck is made by soldering a piece of 3/ 32-in. I.D. tubing to the mast band in which the spinnaker eye pin turns (see Fig. 25). Fig. 26 shows a gooseneck with an extension to keep the boom from skying. It is very easy to make and works very well. Solder a piece of 1/8-in. I.D. tubing 3/4 in. long to a piece of 1/2–in. I.D. tubing the same length into which the mast is fitted. At one end of a piece of 1/8-in. rod, 4 1/2 or 5 in. long, drill a 1/16-in. hole and cut a slot about /4 in. deep with a hack saw. Then 1 in. from the saw cut make a rightangle bend parallel to the saw cut and at the other end bend a small hook. The 1/8-in. rod must turn freely in the 1/8-in. I.D. tubing. Out of a piece of 20-gauge brass cut a wedgeshaped piece about 1/8 in. wide and 1 1/4 in. long. Drill a 1/16-in. hole at the large end and drive the pointed end into the mast end of the boom. The collar will prevent the boom from splitting. When the boat is completely rigged attach a rubber band to the boom and gooseneck extension. A few trials will determine the tension necessary to keep the boom from skying. This device works especially well because it swings with the boom. Fig. 25 Attaching the Mast Step. Fasten the mast step to the deck beams with 3/8-in. No. 3 flat-head wood screws. The Steering Device. Fig. 26 The steering quadrant is of the Braine type and is made of 18-gauge metal cut as shown Page 18 Fig.27 in Fig. 27. To the top side of the quadrant solder a short piece of tubing the proper diameter to fit very snugly over the rudder stock. The quadrant is attached to the rudder stock by means of a small pin for which a hole is drilled through both tube and stock. A series of small holes, 1/4 in. apart, are bored in the quadrant for the running-line hooks. The rudder port should extend 3/8 in. above the deck so as to keep the tension rubber below any moving part of the quadrant. The rubber equalizer is made as shown in Fig. 27A, using a brass bolt. Fourteen inches of 1/ 8-in. round rubber is necessary for the tension requirements. This rubber should be renewed every season as it has a tendency to deteriorate. To do this simply loosen the small bolt and separate the plates (Fig. 27, Sec. A-A). The tension slide is made in two parts as shown so that each side has its own adjustment. The spacer blocks under the ends are used so the sliders will clear the deck. By pushing the tension sliders to the extreme forward position the quadrant tail will be locked in position between them. To reduce friction between the tension rubber and the quadrant tail it is advisable to use a sheave as shown in Fig. 27B. The Sails. The yacht should have at least two suits of sails, or better still, three, to take care of various weather conditions. The No. 1 suit (Fig. 40) should be the full limit of the allowed sail area and be cut somewhat full to be used in light weather. The No. 2 suit should be per- Fig.27B haps 10 per cent smaller and cut with less roaching to make the sails more flat and to be used in heavier weather. The No. 3 suit should have about 20 per cent less area than the No. 1 sail and is for use in bad weather. It is important that the center of effort of suits 2 and 3 check exactly with the center of effort of suit No. 1, otherwise they will be out of balance. Rigging the Ship. Along the aft side of the mast and the top side of the main boom, arrange a series of small screw eyes, or staples, spaced as shown on the drawings, through which the jack lines are passed for attaching the sails to these spars (Figs. 34A and 35). The mast jack line extends from the top of the mainsail to 1/2 in. above the gooseneck and should have a take-up at the top as shown. These jack lines are made of stainless steel wire. The jack lines under the main and jib booms, which are used in adjusting sheet bowsers, are made of Page 19 Page 20 cord or fishline. They should have a second bowser at one end to hold the desired tension. Figure 31 shows a deck view with the complete rigging. Spinnaker. Shrouds and stays The spinnaker is an when of strong cord or additional triangular fishline should all have Fig. 28 sail used when sailing bowsers to hold the before the wind. Actension. Figure 28 cording to the rules the shows a flat and a ring spinnaker has only two bowser. If wire or airrestrictions when used; plane cable is used namely, that its boom turnbuckles are more must not extend more practical. Chain plates than 15 in. beyond the (Fig. 29) may be center of the mast, and screwed to the edge of its height is limited to the deck into the hull, the top point of the or screw hooks, spaced forward triangle. These as shown in Fig. 31, meager restrictions permit a great deal of may be used for fastening the shrouds. Halleeway in the shape and the rigging of the yards may be made of strong fine cord or of spinnaker. Since each design has its own pefishline. Bowsers are again used to adjust the culiarities under weather conditions various tensions. spinnaker arrangements should be tried out on a new model to get the most efficient sailing combination. The spinnaker is essentially Fig. 29 a bellying sail and therefore all the edges should be cut with considerable outward curve. Fig. 32 shows a spinnaker drawing which may help as a suggestion. As a rule the spinnaker is made of the same material of a lighter weight than the regular working sails. A silk of the proper weight may be used. Running-line blocks must have free-turning Figs. 38 and 39 give some suggestions for sheaves and be located as shown in Fig. 16. rigging the spinnaker. The blocks may be attached to the deck with 1/8-in. No. 1 screws. The boom-running Claude W. Horst (1939) sheet block should be a double-sheave special block so that the sheet lines may be reFig. 30 moved without unfastening anything. These are available at most model-boat supply houses. Running-line hooks are made of stiff 1/16-in. wire and bent as shown in Figure 26. For the sheets and the running lines use a light strong fish line . screws. Fig. 30 shows a fairlead through which the jib steering sheets pass. A good fairlead may be made of a piece of 1/8-in. brass tubing soldered to a small flat base 1/4 by 1/2 in. Fig. 30 also shows a spinnaker hook made of a piece of stiff 1/16-in. brass wire soldered to a piece of brass 1/4 by 1 in. Page 21 Fig. 32 Key to Fittings: 1. Jib Rack 2. Jib Boom 3. Jib Traveler 4. Mast 5. Blocks 6. Steering Quadrant 7. Jib Steering Sheets 8. Main Boom 9. Main Traveler 10. Beating Sheets 11. Running Sheets For Fig. 37: 12. Jibing Guy For Figs. 38 and 39: 13. Spinnaker 14. Spinnaker Boom 15. Spinnaker Sheets 16. Spinnaker-sheet Hooks Fig. 33 Page 22 Fig. 34. Sheets set for a beat. Both beating sheets hooked to their respective travellers 3 and 9. The main is set to about 15 degrees and, contrary to radio practice, the jib is set “a whisker flatter” in the words of the late Bill Bithell. The boat sails on balance alone. Fig. 35. Sheet setting for a broad reach. The main and jib are set to about 45 degrees. The jib sheet is unhooked from the jib horse 3 and attached to the jib steering sheets 7 which cross and run to quadrant 6. Pressure on the jib counteracts the natural tendency of the boat to turn into the wind. The jib is used for this purpose because using the main, as in a narrow reach or run, would provide too much steering force. Page 23 Fig. 36. Setting for a narrow reach. The running sheets 11 are attached to the quadrant 6. Pressure on the main applies helm to counteract the asymmetry of the sail. The main is used because of the reduced pressure given the angle to the wind. Fig. 37. Guying on a beat. The guy 12 is connects the main boom 8 to quadrant 6 and set so that the pressure on the main causes the boat to turn into the wind and forcing it to tack once in mid pond. Guying is also used to “loop” down one side a pond whose far side is inaccessible. Page 24 Fig 38. Rigged for a run with spinnaker set. The main is set to 90 degrees and the running sheets 11 are rigged to the quadrant 6 so that pressure on the main applies helm to counteract the asymmetry of the sails. Spinnaker boom 14 is held forward with elastic 17 and trimmed with spinnaker sheets 15, attached to hooks 16 on the deck. Fig. 39. Another view of the spinnaker rigging and an explanation of jibing. Page 25 The Mark Steele Challenge The smallest sailing schooners on the planet! not easy planning anything these days, one has to be so politically maritime correct! and absolutely both specific and fair. She could possibly already be a recordholding model for the “smallest sailing schooner,” the unusual looking Palmir, so name because her hull was made by that prolific model yacht builder, Ron Rule, out of a curled piece of bark that had fallen off a palm tree in the front of our Albany home in New Zealand. Hang on, you skilled ship modellers, you can surely get that down to planning and building a little schooner at ten or eleven inches long and putting micro-sized RC gear into it and getting it to sail. I am sure you can, so what about it? Surprise yourself and see how small a working schooner you can come up with. I promise a grand feature somewhere in What engineers call an existence proof: a 10.2 in square rigger sails. Then of course at 22 inches in length she might not be because I should explain, I have not set the rules for the challenge. I mean, does the model have to be radio controlled (which Palmir is) or does a freesail schooner come into contention, and what about a twelve inch Footy duly schooner-rigged, because I know of two scows that would already qualify? What about the wonderful little coaster put out in kit form by Seaworthy Small Ships in Maryland, USA, she comes out with a measurement of just sixteen inches, so are kit-built schooner models in contention, I ask myself? All relevant rule ponderings, golly gosh it is one of the publications that I scribble for. Windling is supposed to be relaxing, non pressure slow and easy stuff, so there are no rules other than your aiming to produce as realistic and as pretty, and as small, a model as you can. There are medallion awards for the top three chosen from photos sent to me: windlingworld@xtra.co.nz by September 15th. Page 26 Mark Steele Two Harry Duncan Footy scow schooners show the Challenge can be met, and Mark believes that a ten inch on deck sailing schooner model is possible. Shall we see? The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998 to 2009 U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Other copyrights are maintained by the original holders and such material is used here under the fair use provisions of the relevant copyright acts for nonprofit research and educational purposes. Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Midwest Vice-President: Tom Pratt Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Vintage M Class Coordinator: John Henson Vintage 36 Inch Coordinator: Al Suydam A Class Coordinator: Rod Carr U.K. Coordinator: Graham Reeves Canadian Representative: Doug McMain Historian: Earl Boebert Archivist: Jim Dolan George Atthowe’s M Class Playmate running under spinnaker in 36 knots of breeze at the late, lamented Berkeley pond, 1945. Page 27