Model Yachting Monthly: Volume 2, Issue 13 – March 1946

,-no…,. OFFICIAL YACHT 25 (ENT.5 JOURNAL RACING OF THE MODEL ASS’N OF AMERICA c3. COPY MARCH 1946 & 2.·00 d. YEAR I q ‘-. MODEL YACHT RACING ASSOCIATION 1946 OF AMERICA 1921 The object of this Association is to encourage and promote the designing, buildini, and racing •of model sailing yachts, and to establish uniform rules and regulations for the conduct of the sport. Model yacht clubs in the United States or possessions having a roster of not less than ten members are eligible for membership in the M. Y, R. A, A. Annual dues are ten dollars. Applica” tions for membership shall be made in ”<- writing to the National Secretary, and t-..__shall be signed by the Commodore and Secretary of the applicant club, stating ~ the number of members the applicant . club has, and accompanied by a fee of j . ten dollars, as dues for the calendar Y to be returned if the application is jected. A model yacht competing in any tional, Divisional or Invitation Reg: must be registered in the M, Y. R. A Member clubs are rrouped in divisi the Eastern, Mid-western, and Pac and are units formini the M. Y. R. A Each division has it.a own regional cers and divisional championship ra The N a.tional Association has di. charge of the National Champions} and other National Races, and pror. gates Rules and Regulations for the< duct of the sport. j . , ~-:~ ~~cu~cus=cu;:n ~ ~ l . , I .. ' • ...:..ctQcu=u=:iuu~~ YOU SHOULD JOIN THE M. Y. R. A. A. BECAUSE YOU· OBTAIN ~ r-Protection of !ts Constitution, Regulations, Sailing and Rating Rules. I ~ Prestige for your hobby, club and country. ;',~ "eOpportunity to share the destiny of your chosen sport, locally, nationally, internati -......'--ally, and politically, -~ Inductance into the ftnest comradeship of any sport. ·-,-,, A wider social radius of friends and kindred spirits. r-,.. Participation in Divisional, National and International recreative competition . :__'I. A greater satisfaction from the time and substance expended and the experience gaiI: ~u~u~~~~~~u~~~~t. r-. \_.t\ MODEL YACHT RACINC ASSOCIATION OF AMERICJ OFFICIAL PUBLICATIONS Sailing Rules (Pond) and General Rules ...... 20c each. Lots of ten or more, 18c er Sailing Rules (Skiff) ......................... lOc each. Lots of ten or more Sc ef M-Class Rating Rules (Marblehead 50-800) ..... lOc each. Lots of ten or more, 8c et X-Class Rating Rules (1000 sq. in. S.A.) ....... lOc each. Lots of ten or more, 8c eE Standard Starting Schedules ................. 20c each. Lots of ten or more, 18c e1 Measurement Certificate Blanks ............... A-Class, 6-M Class, $1.25 per hund1 M. Y. R. A. A. R. Rubber Stamp (to record S.A.) .................. 50c each, postpr Make check or M.O. payable to W. F. POST, Treasurer, M, Y. R. A. A. 3064 Coleridge Road, Cleveland Heights, 18, Ohio r-;ATTlf PUBUC U8?A7: MODEL YACHTING MONTHL MARCH, 1946 N0.13 L- a . •, .. [ I, t s BILL RICH'S A-CLASS SHOWINGTRIPOD MAST. F I N I sH FI CH T By CLINTON T. SIMON the foreside o~ the stick and he wa all set. That, fellows, did it! H was using the '"synchronous sheet which was illustrated in an issue o MYM, so with a sheepish grin on m puss I finally got around to ea.yin "All set, let's go!" \'/ell,, we got off to a flyin start, neither one seeming to take lead after covering about 150 fee of the course. Now his boat takes wing-and-wing position that bodes n good for the "Alert" (that being th name of my boat), and I'll be dog gonad if the other's sails don' hold that position all the way dow the lake. While I am gybing my hea off for at least half the course! Well, sir, there is probably n need to tell you who came out th winner. Afte~ we pulled out at th leeward end of the lake I had to tal-: a look to convince myself that h was not using a Liverpool Boyt make_ that jib remain "wung out 11 lik it did. However, he assured me tha by the mere placing of the vane : couple of degrees off the centerlin, it assured him of his sails remain• ing wung out ·once she felt the wind· Now I ask you, is that fair? No' I figured, it was my turn. I woul< trim the pants off him on the return leg, a beautiful beat to windward. Oh, yeah? We got the boats ov· erboard and start off on the por· tack, which ·seemed the most favorable. After we got out about fort;y feet or so he apparently got a fin~ break, for as we near the ea.et bank. hie boat flutters her sails a bit, breaks tack, and starts off witt everything drawing,including my temper. So while he is making merry, J am squatting on the edge of the lake praying my boat in so that I can reset my gye and overtake him,I hope, by pinching her a bit on the starb'o leg. The Alert finally comes asher I stop her, make the trim and point her out at a 45 degree angle to the wind, as I always get my sails full and drawing as is the requirement. Well, I figure everything is going to be all ri8ht. I make my play with the gye about one-quarter of the width of the lake, my opponent still going off on the starb'd ta.ck, and headfng for a calm spot that lies along the west bank for about half the length of the l~ke. However I do not see him ·showing any sign of worry; he doesn•~ start running over to head her off, and I am getting a bit nervous for his sake as the lake has a concrete bank a.Q.d does no good to a boat that hits it. Now it eomes he heads straight for_the calm spot and starts to slow right down to a walk. This, I figure, is where he ur Uodel Yachting Monthly ha.a in recent issue~ presented articles about various types of steering and sail setting rigs, and it has proven to be a liot question among the fellows considered to be authorities on sailing. How, I believe, it is time that \ve fellows who a.re not authorities, but just plain skippers, who have to bear the brunt of the barrage had a say in the matter. And so, with your pernission I will take you on an imaginary trip with me and see what effect it will have. To start our journey I shall assume that you, like myself, have for the past several years been using the Bra.ine gear, together with all the known deck rigging that ~oes with it. we have found 1 t usable and efficient. We have sailed against boats equipped with vanes and sliding rigs. Possibly you have had no trouble in taking over some of these boa.ts so rigged? But there are wide di~essions between us, for instance we must have our mast stepped just so, raked just the right way, and of course we need the usual coup~e of trial runs and beats just to check and make sure. Well, now that we have done all this we a.re read)' for some keen competition. The weather is fine, the breeze---, well, enough to make us happy anyhow. How a.long comes a fellow all rigged up with a self-tacking vane, sliding rig, and all the latest gadgets that perhaps we frown upon. When he· tunes up it does not take him any time at all. He doesn't worry about whether his stick is raked just so,· or - even if it is in the precise location. If there are any changes to be made, why, doggone it, all he does is slide the whole rig, sailo and all. How about that? Then we begin to .wonder. If there are any faults in his sail sets, he can compensate for them without so much as removing a eingle·ehroud, whereas we must practically dismantle the whole darn rig to accomplish any changes whatsoever Well, we finally get the boa.ts overboard. The starting leg is a dead run, so I check the tension on the quadrant, and set my jib-steeringlines, also fool around a bit with the main sheet.Then I have to decide just where the sheets should be placed on the quad. ~·Jell, ha.ving done all that, I look up at my competitor and find him squatting there with a bored expression on his pan, and he says, "Well,it's about time you were ready; I was beginning to think you would take all day!" iou see, all he had to do was to move ONE bowser that was attached to ® 2 F I N I sH FI CH T By CLINTON T. SIMON the foreside o~ the stick am he was. all set. That, fellows, did it! He was using the '"synchronous sheet" which waa illustrated in an issue or 1ITM, so with a sheepish grin on my puss I finally got around to saying "All set, let's go!" Viel],, we got off to a flying start, neither one seeming to take a lead after covering about 150 feet of the course. Now his boat takes a wing-and-wing position that bodes no good for the "Alert" (that being the name or my boat), and I'll be doggoned if the ·other's sails don't hold that position all the way down the lake. While I am gybing my head off for at least half the course! Well, sir, there is probably no need to tell you who came out the winner. After we pulled out at the leeward end of the lake I had to take a look to convince myself that he was not using a Liverpool Boy to make. that jib remain "wung out" like it did. However, he assured me that by the mere placing of the vane ·a couple of degrees off the centerline it assured him of his sails remaining wung out once she felt the wind. Now I ask you, ia that fair? Now I figured, it was my turn. I would trim the pants off him on the return leg, a beautiful beat to windward. Oh, yeah? We got the boats overboard and start off on the port tack, which seemed the most favorable. After we got out about forty feet or so he apparently got a fine, break, for as we near the ea.at bank, . his boat flutters her sails a bit, breaks tack, and starts off with· everything drawing,including my temper. So while he is ma.king merry, I am squatting on the edge of the lake praying my boat in so that I can reset my gye and overtake him,I hope,« by pinching her a bit on the eta.rb'd leg. The Alert finally comes ashor~ I stop her, make the trim and point her out at a 45 degree angle to the wind, as I always get my sails full and drawing as is ~he requirement. Well, I figure everything is goin~ to be all ri~t. I make my play with the gye about one-quarter of the width of the lake, my opponent still going off on the starb'd tack,' and heading for a calm spot that lies along the west bank for about half the length of the l~ke. However I do not see him ·showing any sign of worry; he doesn•t start running over to head her off, and I am getting a bit nervous for his sake as the lake ha.a a concrete bank aod does no good to a boat that hits it. Now it comes,. he heads straight for the calm spot and starts to slow right down to a walk. This, I figwe, is where he ur Uodel Yachting Monthly has in recent issueP presented articles about various types of steering a.nd sail setting rigs, and it has proven to be a not question among the fellows considered to be a.uthor_itiee on sailing. Now, I believe, it is time that we fellows who a.re not authorities,but just plain skippers, who have to bear the brunt of the barrage had a say in the matter. And so, with your per~ission I will take you on an imaginary trip with me and see what effect it will have. To start our journey I shall assume that you, like myself, have for the past several years been using the Braine gear, together with all the known deck rigging that Koes with it. we have found it usable and efficient. We have sailed against boa.ts equipped with vanes and e·liding rigs. Possibly you have had no trouble in ta.king over some of these boats so rigged? But there a.re wide di~eeeions between us, for instance we must have our ma.et stepped just so, raked just the right way, and of course we need the. usual couple of trial runs and beats just to check and make sure. Well, now that we have done all this we a.re ready for some keen competition. The weather is fine, the breeze---, well, enough to make us happy anyhow. How a.long comes a fellow all rigged up with a self-ta.eking vane, eliding rig, and all the latest gadgets that perhaps we frown upon. When he tunes up it does not take him any time at all. He doesn't worry about whether his stick is raked just so,· or. even if it is in the precise location. If there are any changes to be made, why, doggone it, all he does is elide the whole rig, sails and all. How about that? Then we begin to .wonder. If there are any faults in his sail sets, he can compensate for them without so much as removing a single ·shroud, whereas we must practically dismantle the whole darn rig to accomplish any changes whatsoever Well, we finally get the boats overboard. The starting leg is a dead run, so I check the tension on the quadrant, and set my jib-eteeringlines, also fool around a bit with the main sheet.Then I have to decide just where the sheets should be placed on the quad. '.'/ell, ru..ving done all that, I look up at my competitor and find him squatting there with a bored expression on his pan, and he says, "Well,it's about time you were ready; I was beginning to think you would take all day!" tou see, all he had to do was to move ONE bowser that was attached to ® 2 di 99 a natural death, as I know from past experience that one can't get off this bank in time to make up any lost distance. Believe it or not,the darn boat gets just to the. edge of the calm spot,and as if by some feat of magic, breaks tack, comes about, and pretty as you please heads for the finish mark! fellers, I tell you it just about did for me. Here I was choked to dee. th on my own fine gyeing? And that is all there ffi:!.S to it. He takes me like Grant took Richmond coming and going. And so you now know the story of 1!ister Average Skipper. Has 1t ever happened to you? By the way, just for the record, when 1 finally got to the finish line, I ups and asks the feller what in the name of all thats holy made that boat come out of the calm spot. His reply, casual and unstudied was simply, "Oh, thatthat was my gye, it was set to work just as soon as I hit anv dead spots. I noticed that edge along there on the run up, and figured I might run into it,so I made my gye just taut enough to pull the vane feather over on the other tack if and when I hit it". ;~o,v I leave it to you, can these miracles be done with a Braine or any other tensioning device? If so, would the owner of same please come to the fore and let us poor chaps know about it? As for me, Gentlemen, I am going to use a sliding-rig, synchronous sheet control, plus the wonderful self-tacking vane! That,s all Brother. NEWS AND COMMENT AINS BALLANTYNE of the 1.Iill Pond llYC has become the second Patron of 1fYMfor its second volume ... Lt.BoBBY BALLANTYNEof the same club is now out of the Air Force and back in NY. THOMASALLEN and THOM..4.S ALLEU JR • fl.ave become sponsors for lfYl.f46. TOlii JR. is in Kyushu, Japan, has traveled extensively as an interpreter for the U.S.Earines. His dad writes·: "The Jape, when they find Tom can speak and write their laneuage,think he is a man of great importance, and this makes everything nice for him, and they do everything they can. He takes things as they come, and altho overburdened with Jap politeness, trusts them just as far as he could throw an elephant by the tail" •••••• ROY F. CLOUGH, the "Father of the Marblehead 50-800 Class, and Honorary President of the Fastern Divis~on, also holde of :ro. 1 ree;istra tion, M-class, has been further honored by a life membership in the Ryde (Isle of' Wight, England) HYC. • Their letter reads in part: "we are not unn_indful of' what you have done for model yachting, and to show our appreciation of your work, it was proposed at our annual meeting that you should be asked to honor the club by becor.1ing a Life .i:.ler1ber. Life menbership in entirely honorary, and entitles the member to full privelegea of the club and is only bestowed for some outstanding service to the club or the sport. There is only one other life mer.1ber". ~-rehear that Mr .Cle-ugh has accepted the honor ...... congratulations, Roy ....... . C.T.SIIION iA the proud armer of H. Curry1s 1!-clase "Skipper", complete with vane and sliding rig .... WILLIA!! FAIRFULL of the Wellington (Canada), UYC likes 1.m.1 and writes that hie club consisted of Claes A and M, but the laat season the boys turned out four R-lietres. This club sails on an artificial lake at the Ontario Reformatory, a Gover'1Dent Institution, They ha1 a very successful season of sailing, including a two dny regatta, for A-olass, 7 entries, on the first day, an:l 8 6-Ms the second day, with a picnic lunch for all, both days. The MACEYBROTHERS, o~ the Chi cago JJYC are still ardent fans. John has a plan of "SunJf AS FLOORS SEcr,ow !IT 11/l/NSTFl”f 1-11,•lltropl~e C.a•llf!lllirt .aH ..clwJ BOLT Bent1\ibin5ttdd of vti 1’£ to or P4Sfln9 fl,ru S£rlf!w-e’jef’ SUPPORT ‘\I/IN~ lo/lJT ..-,,,, ,.,. ,, :: ‘POSITION of CHAIN•SLIDf (ontop ofde,k) BRAC.Eor far ~r CARLINE for 1111111 HORSE (/1 -HO~~: :: /FLOOR B.~UPPORT lj ‘!f._:: SP BEAMS f, SLID/WC, Al>J\JSfA P-1C, ~ CARLINE n1ar/lnt 11red E/1/DSof TOP of . £DECK STRINf:rE.P. ’14-“‘C0I\MINC,’t – -rT :: ., :r: j:: -~ ;: ::.. ,;1 l:«s-M~u BACKBONE. :: Wll’luNUTS-.,. JI.HFINDLfi ~ SHEER! CLAMP : n ,. 1rIl(GoTIW~1 INTERIORPARTS BUILDING PLANKED MODELS INTERIOR ~ ~ By C.H. .AH Ripu FARLEY Reseroed PARTS thru the deck and into the clamps, so the chain-plates will be parallel with the curved sides of the yacht. However, if a eliding or an adjustable rig is planned.chain-elides are used, and these muot be kept parallel with each other, thus one end of each chain-elide will be further inboard than the other end. In this case two·apecial deckbeams are used, with baeee wide enough to take the screw fastenings. See Fig. IP-1. The hull of your model yacht having been planked am removed from the building board, and the frames trimmed off to final inside shape, the next procedure is to fit and install various interior parts. Framework in a model is not as extensive as in a major yacht, and many members are omitted, being unnecessary on a racing model. The main parts used on a model are, deck-beams, decketringer, mast supports or stanchions, and hatch coaming. Other interior parts,installed at the option of the builder, are keel.bolt supports, when the keel-bolts continue up thr·u the backbone to the LV/L; ( extra heavy floors are sometimes substituted for the supports); internal wire braces to help take up the pull of the side stays or shrouds on the sheer-clamp; a carrying handle fastened to the backbone or at the tops of :keel-bolt ~u.pporte, Most of the parts mentioned in this paragraf can be omitted on all classes except the A-class. It is unnecessary to carry keel bolts to the LWL in small models, but for large models with a heavy lead keel the supports help to ease strain on the backbone, having a long lever. Excepting where a nod.el is very lightly built, internal shroud braces may be dispensed with. Methods of installing these are shown on Fig. IP-1. The use of ash,oak or elm ribs bent while wet·from steaming, under deckbeam, and along frame edge, and fastened with brass screws after the rib is dry, is recommended instead of the \Vire braces. See Fig. IP-1. The same method can be employed on large models where the jib-rack is situated, or at the forward and after ends of a eliding rig. DECK-BEAMCAMBER.Deck-beBlIIB have oamber (crown or arch) at their top, which is designed to give great atrnegth and insure proper drainage of the deck. The bottom edge of all deckbeams must be kept STRAIGHT, and never be concaved, else they will be weakened, and straighten out. Standard nautical text-books disagree as to whether or not ALLdeckbeams in any certain boat should have the SAMEcamber, all cut from a master pattern fitting the greatest beam or the boat, and cutting off the ends of the other beams as the width of the boat decreases. Some text-books claim that deckbeams on a yacht must each be plotted separately, or trouble will be had. Thia ia borne out by experience and is perhaps correct, as near the ends of the yacht the one-patternbeama are often found to be too flat. The practical method,to eave time and trouble, is to cut all beams to the same camber, but near the ends of the yacht, inetal1 beams having a slightly greater crown, and using a batten to fair in all the beama,.pare off or shim up any bumps or hollows. AMOUNTOF CAMBER.The amount of Qamber for deck-beams depends on the designer, who usually _.draws a line on the prorile showing height or the deck at centerline. Where no line is given, you can draw one in, On the average, a small model will take a crown of 1/4″ in height, a larger model, 3/8″ to 1/2tt. Crown is limited on the A-class to l-12th of an inch for every two inches of beam, hence an A-class of 12” beam would be limited to a crown of 1/2 inch. Other classes are not limited. • DECK BEAMSare transverse members that keep the sides of the hull from spreading or flattening, and thus preserve the shape of the yacht, and also support the deck. Deck- beams should be fastened securely at both ends .to the frames or clamps, arid never left “floating” or unfastened, as so~e builders suggest. A model yacht does not need so many deckbeams as does a major yacht. On the latter they are spaced comparatively close together; a 22-footer will have as many as 00 deck-beams, plus carlinea, One deck-beam at each frame station on planked models, or 4 toe inches aPc,i.rt on “dugouts” is aufricient, even on the largest type such as the ~-class. Where chain-plates are to be used for securing the aide stays they can be fastened by screws passing PLOTTING DECK CROWN. The deck crown is laid out as a parabolic curve, as follows:. Draw a. base-line about 1/4″ longer than the length of the deckbeam. Find: the middle of the line and erect a perpendicular. Set compass to height or crown,and. using intersection of base line and perpendicular, draw arc of circle as shown 6 -= BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. INTERIOR PARTS is The first drawing shows the entire beam crown, the second drawing but because of limited apace, twice the scale of the first, for clarity, shown for only half its real length. :,_ i ,,_,t j —–t-1 B-A-~E-L-1 N-E-+-‘~—i~K\\~,-t—ft——t——-t—-=-,-== —–I-I…:=:~—- 2 ,I in ia 3 1===-== \ ] ‘ill[ 1——+– 2 -?””1 I ~ ~–,—–+- _ As the ends of such special beams will be rather thick, they can be tapered down at tips to about 3/32″, plane or sandwheel. Aa this type of beam is comparatively wide it will be strong enough when mortised into the sheer-clamp, and each end fastened with four 1/4 #1 or 3/8 #1 flat head braes screws, slightly countersunk, The middle of the beam, where it is mortised into the deckstringer may also be tapered, as practically all the pull of the side stays comes at the outer end.a of the beame. on drawing,top of this page. Div~de the arc into four_ equal parts, also divide base-line from perpendicular to the intersection of the arc int~ four equal parts. Connect the spots, numbered 1,2,3. Now divide base-line into four equal parts on each aide of the perpendicular center-line, or eight parts in all. Erect a perpendicular at each of these six spots, and number them 1,2,3. Transfer the heights of the eloping lines within the arc to the perpendiculars 1,2,3. With a batten held in place with pine or weights, sweep a line thru these spots, which will be the abs.po of the deck-crown. ‘ DECK STRINGER. Major yachts don’t use a deck stringer,having many more deckbeams than a model,although some major yachts have a “deck etrongback (which ia not very heavy) to support the king-plank. The deck stringer of a model ties the deckbeams together fore-and-aft, takes the place of multitudinous beams~ and helps keep the deck in shape, as well aa providing a solid base under the thin deck to take the ·screw fastenings for various fittings. The deck stringer is set on t.he center-line of the yacht, and is mortised into the deck-beams, stern head, and stern-piece. Some builders use a few short decl stringers instead of one long one, placing the shorter ones at points of greatest strain. However, to prevent the deck ~aving in, it is beet to use the continuous type, excepting when horses are used, in whict case carlines are installed, and the stringer at such points is omitted. See Fig. IF-1. Deck stringers are usually 3/18″ by 5/8″. Soft wood such as pine w1r not hold screws for f 1 t tings well, sc spruce or rna.hogany is recommended. DIMENSIONSOF DECKBEAMS vary with each builder, but from 3-lR” to 1/4″ stock is enough for most classes but maybe using up to 5-16″ for the wider beams on an A-class yacht. The height depend.a on the amount of the crown, plus allowance for the ems, which may be about 1/4″ or 3-18″ high. LAJi!INATED DECK BEAMSare stronger than solid ones. Glue up two layers of scrap 1/8″ plank with waterproof glue for each deck-beam. When glue is set, cut to finished shape. TOP__.,. SPECIAL DECK BEAMS, wide variety, is used with a slidin~ or adjustable rig. Make of two 1/B layers glued together while bent to the desired camber, around several nails driven in a board, using sma.11 clamps to hold layers together. The width of such beams is from l” to 1 1/4″. The middle is usually carved out, somewhat like the following sketch: (top View), VANE GEAR SUPPORT. If a vane gear is used, provision must be made for a strong, rigid support under the thin deck to screw the vane spindle to. Unlese the stringer is rugged,a block of wood is placed under it. See Fig. IP-1. EE==============~s~,D~c~;,,~============~ [ ~ASE LIN£ TOP1, 7 BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. INTERIOR PARTS COALIING. The hatch coaming is a box frame bordering the hatch opening,over which the hatch cover fits, thus preventing water from running below. It is supported by fastening to deckbeams and to short carlines which are fore-and-a.ft members running between the deck-beams. These carlines also serve to form a landing ~or the deck at the sides of the hatch. ‘.:.’he coamin,e; . projects above decklevel from 1/4″ to 3/8″ according to the builder’s preference. Allowance for thickness of the deck should be made. The coaming extends below the lower edge of the carlines and deckbeams. Some builders omit this internal coaming and just fit the deck to cover the carlines, and then screw a “~alee” coaming on top of the deck. This method is not shipshape an:l rill show ugly screw holes, and it is•nt leak-proof as is the coaming illustrated, where screws are put through where they will not be noticed, as may be seen by an examination of the details. Only a few screws will be necessary, but use plenty of waterproof glue. Chamfer the corners of the cos.ming as ah.own. The coaming above deck-level may be rounded off. STANCHIONS a.re t’itted to support the ma.st when it is stepped on deck. A r:iast stepped below deck ie now a rnusuem piece in the U.S. Stanchions are installed in such a way as to support the mast when it is moved forward or aft. Where a sliding rig is used, the length of the support may·be 6 or 7 inches, and it 1e beet to make it slightly longer than is actually indicated. Four stanchions, each 3/8″ or 1/2 11 square are distributed equally. See Fig. IP-1. HATCHAND HATCHCOA.I.:ING. Many SI:IB.11models, such as the “M-Class” have no hatch, and get along very well. When a sliding rig is used,the hatch, with its coamings and cover, are in the way, unless the hatch is built flush with the deck, in which case it is hard to get at. Drainage is provided by a deck-plug instead of” the batch-and-sponge method. ~’or good looks a hatch, includ ing the cover, should stand not more than 3/8 9 to 1/2″ above deck level. Large models are more difficult to carry,· or lift in and out of the water, and a hatch is a necessity so the carrying handle can be reached. SQI:le builders put a handle on deck, but nothing looks worse. ~ TOP VIEW ~ of LIFT HATC.H A l&J CQ Q~ ~~ _);: … 11.J ~~–‘~~~ u • ~ ~ ~ Q:: ~ ….. ‘.l: Q ~· ~ c:: u 0 Q l&J ~ ~ ~ .SID£ VIEW of COPrM/!ICr a..CARLINE SECT/ON of ])fCX BEAM ttA.TCHCOVER. The hatch cover may have a frame of 1/4″ thick wood, and a roof of 1/16″ plywood. The cover should fit close over the coaming, but not too tight, as wood swells when wet.· Dovetailing corners of the frame is unnecessary. Use a joint as shown (next page). It is customary to build covers with a hollow on the underside of :f’rame at forward and 8 ~ BUILDING PLANKED MODELS. INTERIORPARTS bone, the handle is beet made o~ metal, with the ends bent to a double right angle. Various types of handles are shown in the following sketches. fter ends, and the aides bevelled, anderneath, to fit the crown of deck. ~he top or roof of cover should h&v·e a camber athwartehips about the same as that of the deck, and not be flat. The top should project l/l6th of an inch beyond the frame. ro=::—,—–~ WOO!> a;• {o ALUM y l}fvM· CHANNEL Sec.. p I:={ €, ALVM.TU8€-flaftel’\ ends COVER:\, ~J(W!/i’.A!W!/’1′!!;:~”fil/;?!’.’/1′<"!W1t INSTALLINGIHTERIOR PARTS ············lo~····················. ......•......... -.............. ····· t>ed<1 Stl>t Vll:W – r- ff ATlH ~ ‘FRRM£ TtJPVTEW COP.HERS CHflMFENEb …. – FLUSH HATCH. If it is desired to have the hatch cover flush with the deck it must be carefully ma.de and fitted to prevent ja-mming or leakage. The best method is to construct a , frame below deck level, the sides of frame having a bevel, with the cover bevelled to fit much as a bung. The bevelled edges may be faced with thin sheet cork or other insulation. ;.•:: ::,;.: · .. · …. ,. •.. ,:,, .. ,.,_ •. -~·-·, .-:1:·,:~, Before proceeding to do any actual work on interior parts or fra~ework, stop and figure out the locations. The deck-beams are placed one at each frame, but one or two may have to be shifted to accomodate the hatch, or another beam or two added. Before finally installing interior parts, paint or varnish them on the edges that do not need to be glued. It is difficult to varnish or paint the bottom edges of deckbeama deck-stringer &c once they have been permanently installed. DECKBEA!IS. Do NOT mortise deckbeame- into the clamps, but glue and screw them to the large end left at sides of frames. If an extra beam is needed for the hatch, this m~y be mortised. slightly into the clamp,or small blocks of wood may be glued on clamp at each side of deck-beam, or under it, using braes screws also if desired. Mark crown and centerline on the deckbeam stock fron the master. pattern. Cut each beam slightly longer than necessary for fit, to allow for tripnning. Cut beam to shape of the crown, finishing on a sand-wheel. The ends of moat beams will have to be bevelled to fit the curve of .. ~ ~;=~~=~”=•~· =r=~~~~~~~~ . KEEL BOLT SUPPORTS. See Paragraph 5, page 9 1 December MYM{1945) for a description of these members. the.inside edge of the sheer-clamp. Alea note that the shorter a beam is cut, the higher the ends will be, so trim off excess wood so the ends are not too high, keeping the bottom edge of beam STRAIGHT. NEVERconcave the bottom edge, or the beam will CARRYINGHANDLE. When a oarrying handle ie necessary, it may be made of wood or aluminum, holes bored· at the end.a, and fastened at the tops Of the keel-bolt supports by’ screwing the wing-nuts hard down on them. \There no supports are used, and the wing-nuts, insulated with leather washers, bear directly on the back- tend to flatten out. About 3/8″ will be enough vertical height for the ends of the deck-bear:is, which should allow enough stock for fastening to frame tops with screws and glue. 9 BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. top of each beam. Remove threa.d;mark centerline on aides of beams, using a small try-square. With dividers mark a spot on each side of the C.L. of deckbeams, as a guide for cutting the mortise for the deck-stringer. Stay well inside the spots, ao that a ciose fit may be had. A out ma.y be made with a jeweller•s saw or a fine toothed coping-saw to the depth of the mortise,holding a small block of wood against the beam to steady it. Chisel-or out out mortise, using a section of the stringer for fit. Try and get mortises true so stringer will land properly. If the stringer is extra wide, the outer upper edges may need bevelling to fair in with the deck-beam camber, eo in such a case leave it slightly high above the contour of deckbeama. Mortise out stem-piece. for the forward end of the stringer, which may be cut to a wedge-shape there. ?.!ortise out the stern-piece for aft end of stringer. If a hatch is fitted, be sure there are deck-beams fitted to fasten the coaming to. The deck-stringer is out off where 1t junps the hatch opening. Try str~nger in mortises,triIDI:ling to a close fit. Check stringer with a batten, to avoid humps or hollows. Bore a hole t~.rough the stringer to take the rudder tube. Before permanently fastening the deck-stringer in the mortises, give it one or two coats of paint or varnish on the under side, skipping the places where it fits the □ortises. Also fit and install stanchions or mast-supports and all other parts that would be difficult to get at were· the stringer set permanently. Countersunk brass screws and water-proof glue a.re used to fasten the stringer into the deckbeam mortises. Fit deckbeams one at a time. The ends should butt fair against the inner edge of sheer-clamp, and close up to the face of the frame_. The top of the deckbeam mu.at co-incide with the marked line on the frame showing the sheer-line and deck camber. The frame top ia trimmed off to the deck crown· camber after deckbeama and the deck stringer are installed, Use a batten as you proceed, and check the fairness of the deckbeama, ao there will be no hollows or humps. Be careful not to spring out the aides of the yacht by using too long a deckbeam, or pulling the aides in by using too short a beam. Remove temporary crosa-epalla or ‘braces already installed, only aa each beam ie fitted, and put them back if you remove the beam. Drill and countersink for one or two ·r1at-head braes screws, which are put thru beam and into the frame, using waterproof glue aa well. DECK CROWNJIG. Make a jig with the same deck-crown camber as the master pattern, but have it concave instead of convex. Make the .jig a i~ttle longer than the-~idest deckpee.m and mark a center line on it. Thia jig ia a laminated curved strip about an inch and a half wide, each lamination being about 1/8 inch thick, and in turn glued to a handle with concaved surface. ~lue the two laminations together f’irst, and then the whole to the handle. When it is dry, glue a strip of garnet paper or garnet cloth to the concaved surface. This jig is used to fair in the deck-beams, deck-stringer, sheerclamp and the line of sheer as well. Move it back and forth, holding it steady ~nd approximately on the c.L. of the yacht. You will find that you can do a better job with this jig than by trying to use a plane or a sand-block. Sight the sheer by eye from various angles aa you proceed, and check with a batten also. STANCHIOUSOR 11ASTSUPPORTS. Fit stanchions, placing them to take the limit of movement of ma.st or rig, or a 11 t tle more. A short menber as wide as the deckstringer and about 3/8 in. thick ties the tops of stanchions together, and is placed directly under the deck-stringer. Set 1/8″ dowells in bottom of stanchions and into the backbone to keep the stanchion bases from skidding. Put brass screws thru stringer, re-enforcing member and down into tops of stanchions, countersinking screw heads. Be careful not to hump up or depress the deckstringer with too long or too short a .stanchion. INSTALLING DECK STRINGER. Take a strong linen thread or a light line, _and being careful to get the exact centerline at bow and atern,tack one end of line in stem-piece on centerline, and pull line taut across tops of deck-beams, leaving free end hang below the y~oht’e weight pencil oounter, INTERIOR PARTS KEEL BOLT SUPPORTS. If you are to install keel-bolt supports, or extra floors or braces to steady the lead ballast, these are best fitted when the deck-stringer is off the boat. tied to~ to keep line taut. With sharp or scriber mark centerline on 10 INTERIORPARTS BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. HATCHCOAl{IN~. Cut mortises into t~e faces of the deckbeams to take t~e butts of the two carlines which ~pport the side coaming and laming 9 for the deck. The carlines should be r1uah with the deckbeam at the upper d~e of the latter. Note that the ~atch coaming is built inside the carlines. To locate position of the carlines, measure on each side of the c.L. of the yacht. cut a cha.mf’er at the corners of the hatch, rlth a jack-knife or small chisel. A chamfer oa.kee a strong joint, holds the and true. 00 a~ing rigid HATCHCOVER. The hatch cover for use with the coaming just described is called a 9 lift-hatch”, and fits OVERthe coe.ning, never inside. Build the frame from 3/16″ or 1/4 stock, with enough vertical height to clear the coaming. It ma.y be beet to wait until the deck is installed before fitting the hatch-cover. J.’he corners should be char.ifered , or cut out and butted. Thwartship ends are cambered to match the crown of the deck. Botton and top edges of the frame must be bevelled, to take the crown of roof and deck. You can use 1/4″ brass brads to fasten the corners of frame, but first drill holes with a very small drill, and use w-proof glue also. The top of hatch cover may be fastened to the frame with these anal~ brass brads, which nay be lightly countersunk and mal:e a neat r·astening, with no screw holes to fill up. CARLIUES for supporting such as travelers or horses course fitted, if used. fittings a.re of Now that all the interior parts and the fra~ework of the yacht are co~pleted, the entire inside of the hull, including all wooden parts, is varnished or painted. Take plenty of time for this, and let the stuff DRY a~ter each coat. Be sure and use a good grade of varnish or paint. The first and second coats should be well thinned out with turps, the covering coats as it comes from the can. Two or three final coats should be suf’ficient to seal the wood and prevent leakage. Fill small cracks carefully with paint or varnish; larger cracks or spaces such as are found near the garboard or rabbet with canoe- glue, seam putty, or other Wgunk”. Llaybe some paint or varnish rlil seep thru pianking joints from the inside of the hull to the outside. ir it does, ished off. The reason that this has not been done before is because in the process of handling, and in fitting interior parts, the outside may be dented or scratched, and the finishing would have to be done 9ver. The ridges where plank edges join are cut down and rounded off with a very sl!la.ll plane, 2 t9 3 inches long, .honed to a razor edge and set very fine. watch out that the grain of wood is follmved, that is., do not plane against grain, but with it or across it. After the ridges have been rounded off by plane, use MEDIUMgarnet paper, wrapped around a sand-block, followed in turn by fine and very fine. Never use coarse garnet pa.per or sand pa.per, as eoratches ma.de in the planking with coarse pa.per are often impossible to remove. Be careful not to dig in or scratch, and take plenty of time. The sand-block may be flat, or ~ade with a concave curve to fit the general curve of tb9 yacht. The author prefers a flat sand-block, 8 or 10 inches long and about 3/16″ thick and about 2 i~ches wide. Thia sort of block can be used to straddle two sections at a time, and gets a fairer curve. Sand diago·nally more than straight fore and a.ft along the waterlines for best result. At places where the tooth – pick fastenings a~e set. give special treatment, because if you are not careful, the planking is apt to be sanded into a groove or a depression and the picks stand “high”. The reason for this is that the picks are hard wood tbirch) and so require more sarxling than the relatively soft planking. When the outside of the hull has been finally sanded,the hull is given one or two thinned-o~t coats of varnish, paint, or enamel, followed by covering coats· as it cornea from the can. .i.oater on· we will have a chapter on painting. deal The next installment will with decking problens. . (TO be continued) ,r, * * * * * * * * * * Don’t allow your model to develop the embarrassing wobble, bounce, and slump of an uncontrolled bust-line. Use our noncollapsable bra-spinnaker, which is pert and flared for fun, wipe off with rag dipped in gasoline or turps. As soon as one or two interior coats have been applied and are dry, the outside of the hull may be fin~ and just pa.eked with California glamour. -From newspaper advt: all we did was add the word spinnaker~ 11 • PAINTING MODEL YACHTS By C. o. BROOK EorroR’s NoTE:-Mr. Brook has handled paint in a practical way for twrnty-eight years; he comes from a family who have handled paint and its various pigments for nearly a century; he is an artist, both on canvas and outdoor displays; he now cwns and operates a studio, and has made a very close study of painting in nearly all known fields, and his knowledge of painting models is given readers of MoolL YAcHTn-fC cnly after repeated experiments and great expense. Now that winter is nearly upon us, we will be turning our minds to building models; or, if we have a model and do not intend to build another, we may decide to repaint the old one, and repair it where needed. Usually, when the practical painter tells the layman how to paint, he may as well talk Arabic for all the benefit obtained, so I am going to make an effort to tell you, in a simple way, the only practical method of painting models that have to take a lot of abuse and which we still want to keep slick on her wetted surface or under body. The two principal requisites are patience and ambition. Haste means waste and laziness gets us nowhere. The sensible painter of a model boat that is to be placed in actual service will allow himself one month to do the job. Before I go into the actual w.ork, I wish to state a few facts that, unheeded, will lead you astray and you will have accomplished nothing. First, do not ask a house painter to advise you on how to mix your colors. Second, do not ask the painter of large vessels, nor the decorator of interiors. If you must ask questions of someone, I would tJdvise go_ing to the most reliable commercial sign painter, one who does plenty of high grade bright or varnished s:gns, as his work brings him more nearly into the field of model painting than any of the other prof ess :ons mentioned. Third, do not use lacquers on any boat unless you would come to rapid grief and see a beautiful finish drop to an irreparable mess. It is advisable to stay away from any quick- • drying color, whether it is enamel or .iapan colors, except as mentioned hereafter. 77-/AT J(APP/’IYS £VE~ TIIV/£ A BLONO WALKS .,~:~ 1t I I ‘ l , ,.. -· ..BYTliE POIVLJ l W• II P<:!~<> –=——e£:::=-,——:- ~~-,_!- 12 If your boat is an old boat, and already has paint on it, you must expect a little unpleasant work to start_ with, na~elf, getting rid of the old pamt. If this 1s not done, you are leavi~g a great deal of unnecessary weight on your boat because, in a Class A boat, for instance, it is easy to add three pounds actual weight in paint by. the me!hod usuallf emp~o_yed~y the unskilled pa1.nter, that 1s, u11s,~11ledm this particular type of work. Secure sufficient pa:nt remover and do the job as per directions on the container; or m:x equal parts benzol and denatured alcohol. The latter is best, since it conJ:ains no wax, which is used in commercial paint removers to increase their speed- of operation and also to hold the remover in an active state for a longer pcrlod. The reason I advise against th:s commercial remover is obvious: a certain amount cf wax will stay in the wood 1 and even a good turpentine \,·ash docs not remo-,e it all, and no paint will penetrate wax and penetration is the secret of successful adhesion or sticklng qual:ty of paint. That is why painting on glass has only a short lasting period as compared to wood. After the old pa!nt has been removed, be sure to wash your boat thoroughly with a stiff hand brush and gasoline that is frte from oil. Better buy your gas chemically pure from a druggist, or strain it through drugg:sts’ filter paper. This may seem nonstnsical to you but I assur<; you you will be well rep~id for the trouble. Let your boat dry overnight: This will give the nap of the wood a chance to Ile down again, as the wetting raises a noticeable fuzzy nn p on soft woods. ,:ve are now at the stage of practically a newly constructed hull, and the fo:lowing applies to those who have just completed a new boat. Secure some sandpaper in the follow:ng numbers and quantity: 6' sheets of No. 1 (never use coarser than this except for removing chisel marks from carved models, when No. 3 can be used) ; 12 sheets of 2/0 ( commonly called double aught) 12 sheets of No. 320 wet and dry; and 12 sheets of No. 400 wet and dry. Also get ten cents' worth of pulverized rotten stone for your final rub before waxing. Before you do any further work, you should secure white lead for the part of your 9oat that is to be painted. (I will tell you of bright finishes after I qave told· you of painting.) For an A or B Class boat, take 5 lbs. of pure white lead. Personally, I prefer Dutch Boy or any other that is made by the old Dutch method. This fact is generally stated on the labels. We are going to "draw" our lead, and this is how and why. Add turpentine and mix thoroughly to a heavy cream, then set it aside overnight; next day you will see a film of oil on the top. This oil is what we want to remove, so by tilting the can slowly :We pour off the oil. Mix with turpentine again until it is like light cream and let stand till the next day, when we again pour off the surface oil, and our white lead is ready for use, since we have removed the oil we don't need and retained only that amount of oit necessary for penetration and building, and we thin only with turpentine to a thin consistency. Strain it through chc<>secloth of close weave every time it i3 used. This removes the skins and rebreaks the pigment. Let us now go back to our sandpaper. Sanding is not a laborious job if properly clone. I have seen hundreds of men sweat themselves lean sandpapering. Very little pressure is required to make the ground glass on the paper do its work. When you use great pressure you not only tear the wood fibres, but you also tear the sharp glass from the paper and fill the remaining glass with pulp ( or paint where the surface has been painted). Take your No. I sandpaper and rub back and forth lightly, that is, with just a sl!ght pressure of the hand; never use a circular motion, and, wherever possible~ use the rubber sanding block which costs $1.00, or cover blocks of wood,· made to shape, with old flat rubber. When all the deep ridges are removed from the wood and it looks and feels smooth to the touch, repeat the process with the 2/0 sandpaper until the entire surface is smooth as silk. This is necessary to secure a good finish with very little labor. It is necessary to keep the hands spotlessly clean when handling work that is to be finished clear, that is, varnished over the wood. \Ve are now ready to paint. our boat. The best investment we can make at this time is a l ½-inch camel-hair brush (flat) at a cost of from $1.50 to $2.50. This brush, if properly cared for, will last for years, and can be bought by a group of men w_hohave no further need for it than ‘painting one or two ~odels: The care of the brush is simple. After using each time, wash thoroughly in gasoline, dry off 13 ’ with a rag, and grease -with” vaseline. In painting, use the thin drawn white lead for each coat, applying with the camelhair brush. Do not expect to see a white boat after the first or even the fourth coat of paint. Allow 36 hours at least for the drying of each coat, and when each coat dries, sandpaper lightly with 2/0 sandpaper until the surface feels glassy to the touch. If you want to waterproof your boat before painting, use Casco glue, mixed thin, and apply two coats, inside and out, befor’e any paint has been applied. This gives you a hard surface that is impervious to water, and is painted on with a cheap bristle brush. Four hours are allowed between the first and second coats of glue, and eight hours between the second coat of glue and the first coat of paint. After the fourth coat of pa:nt 1h~re should be enough of the paint sanded off to show the wood in only a few high po:nts, such as at the stem,· or transom edges. It_ is then we must use extreme care in handling, both with paint iind sandpaper. Apply three more coats .of leacl as before, but allowing 48 hours at least between coats and sandpapering, and sandpapering with the No. 320 wet and dry, using a wet sponge_ in one hand and the’ sandpaper in the· other, keeping the surface wet while sanding and immediately drying off with chamois when a portion is completed. Remember at all times that hard rubbing will ruin your job, while gentle massaging will give you a beautiful glass-:-like surf ace that will remove all brush marks. We are now ready for our waterline arid underbody finish. If it is to be light colored. underbody such as gray, light green, etc,, se:. cure colors in oil much darker than you want and mix them with clear turpentine, to which add not more than ten drops of japan dryer. This for about one-eighth pint of thin color. Pour this color into your drawn white lead m1til you have secured the tone desired, and proceed as for the whfte part of your boat. Where the entire boat is to be painted dark color, do the entire job except’ the last two coats as just mentioned, when you can use a good four-hour enamel, diluted with turpentine, for your actual coloring. (TO BE QONTINUED) •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• MARI.NE MODEL COMPANY Ready soon-a complete kit. including molded hull and all fittings. This is a quality product you will want to own. Send us your name and address for liter_ature when ready, * * * MARINE MODEL CO.,Inc-. HA~ESITE, L I., NEW YORK ···~···················································································· 14 otlelYachtSailorsWant A Pondto SailinBrooklyn What Brooklyn needs, says Charles E. Wanker of Bay Ridge, is a model yacht pond. Wanker, now 55, has been building and sailing the small cr~ft since he was a boy and deplores the fact that kids today have no spot in Brooklyn, so far as he knows, where they can safely learn the sport. “Our club,” says Wanker, who is S , – . . · t r -treasurer of the Prospect ,bank~ watchm~ th~ kids sail boa.ts. seci e a Y • But it. was filled m.” Park Model Yacht Club and before Charles Lucke, of 658 68th St., that belonged to Brooklyn and Club Commodore 1 is another model ~meric~n Yacht Clubs, is not as yacht :fan who’d like to see a sailb, 7, as 1,t should b~. . . . . ing pond in Brooklyn, “Where the Thats because. 1~ is impossible young children would have a bank !or young boys to sail model yachts where they can sit and sail a boat 10 .Prospect Park Lake. The lake across. England is far ahead of us is 25 _feet deep. They’d have to in pond· sailing-. It has many use ~k1ffs to follow the model yachts courses 1000 feet long and 250 and it would ~e dangerous for them. feet wide.” We w~:>Uldhke to get the youngTHe Prospect Model Yacht Club sters 1n the club, bt~t we have no ; is 25 years old. It carries on the. pl~,ce for, them to sail a boat. i traditions ~f one of Brooklyn’s Theres an awful lot of boys oldest sports. It is the sucessor who like to build and sail boats, “· in the park to the Brooklyn Model but when they get them built, Yacht Club which sailed its little whern are they going·to sail them?” boat~ there for 25 years. Even Shallow Pond N d d earlier, the American Model Yacht ee e • Club sailed the lake until it moved . What’s needed, Wanker figures,/: to Gowanes Bay for open water. 1s .~ pond 1:ot over. two feet deep. I Old Water Dogs. If the kids fall m, they can a-et ,. up and walk,” said Wanker, .;’ho Most of its members ~re, aclives at 666 59th St. “Up to 10 cording to Earnest M. Garbe, viceyears ago, there used to be such commodore, of 531 Third St., “well a pond in Sunset Park. It was advanced in years.” The younger ideal for little kids to sail boats. 1 members, many of them sons of On Sundays it would be crowded : older members, are away in miliwith people sitting around on the . ; tary service. I 15 MODEL YACHTING MONTHLY NEWSLETTER An exhibition of model yachts was put on by the Port Sales corp. Show at Port :·vashington, Jan. 14 – Feb.6. A and ll-class models were on display and the show was a great eucceee., .. E. P. PHILLIPS, Commodore of the Mill Pond MYC will organize a large group of boys, instructing them two or.three evenings a week free in the art of model building. The boats will be M-class from P.A.Fiske’ s 11 Plover” design.~ …. AINS BALLANTYNE now has a new li-claee under construction …•.. \’le hear that JAW~S McKIHNEYSr. of the Chipago LiYC t~1ed unsuccessfully to stop a truck while he was on foot, and was hospitalized. Hope Jim gets out soon, none the worse ……….. . .PAULA. SCHl[ITT of’ the Berkeley MYRC says GEORGEATTHOi’JEcarries his camera always set for an unusual pie, so we can see how ueorge gets those superlative action shots. Paul ea.ye that DAN HERB is missed as a regular at the Berkeley pool, having moved out of the city, but shows up occasional~y. He suggests that all the olube send in their history to lITM.• CHARLIE HEISTERKA1fP,Pres. of the Eastern Division was out in the mid,, west during January, but he c_ould find nothing but ice-boats sailing .• . Charlie is going out for two- day ~~ • racing for the ma.in events or our model yacht regattas …….. CHARLES SIMPSON o:f the seattle !ITC reports that weeds in thejr pond have sort o:f discouraged local sailing last season, but hopes for a better one this year …….. E.L.DUN has removed from Montreal to Vancouver, where he plans to join the local club ……. . •Col. L.E. BROOME,Victoria, B.C. has the Lucite vane Bug and agrees with DR. NORTH that model yachting has _golf skinned a mile.He says that the Seattle boys are the best sports in ‘~ ~11 his experience ~nd gre~t hoate .• TOMJ • ALLEN, 96.9 Scott st., San Diego, Cal., writes that he hopes to see a model yacht club started in hie city, and that the bright spot towards which they are steering is a proposed model basin, 800 x 250 feet which is to be incorporated in the dredging and otherwise improving of Mission Bay. The Kettenburg BOat Works people are also interested in the project. we wish them ggod luck FREDI K w. GWINNJR. of the }.rill Pond LfYChas become a Patron for Volume 2 of this magazine. we will have a new complete list on the Masthead soon •• w.D.HOPKINS sent us three new eubecriptione, all potential club members for Deeper nudson l!YC, They are each building a nsha.rpie”. Hoppy sez “Only by getting new, desirable members interested and then HELPING_ them get started can we hope to build up our sport. I am building a new X which I hope will be an im.prove~ent on the old 4X, The fi ttinge are of dural. An idea; why not have a wook-end regatta this summer sponsored by one or two clubs, at which one day would be spent pond sailing, and the other skiff sailing? A cup could be put up, and the winner declared the all-round Divisional Cham pion. Some oethod of scoring for the two days divided by two could be devised.” The MONTCLAIRtfYC is right on the ball, and sent us eleven subscrip tions in a lump, and say more later. This club, one of the mainstays of the A-class, has beco~e a Patron ~f MYM for the Second Volume. Officers for 1946 are, Wallis c. AXT, Comm., FRED M. MUIR, Vice-Col!II!l., RICHARDO. REGER, Sec-Treas., 139 Chestnut st., uontclair, N.J …. .. B.J. SANTOS, our dyna.nic Secretary, is going to town getting MYM.a better than fine break for cover plates and advertising type. we don’t know how he does it, and he sure is a big help …. FRED’ K Vl~GWINN and E.P.PHILLIPS of the Hill Pond i.ITC are going to build to the X-class plan of “GULL” by P.A.Fiske, They want to give the X-class skip pera of the Eastern Division a whirl and locally to take on CURRY,BROWN • and SYTHOFF.. . . . . . . . NIELS RASl.IUSSEN of the Prospect Park HYC wants to see an article on measuring the AClass. Will someone oblige?,,,WALTER KNAUSS of’ the same club has built a new X and a new M this winter, and several other skippers are also hard at work buHding there .. SAU KING of Toronto, JOE MACYof Chicago, J. -B. •SP0\7ART of Berkeley, R. B. MEIL al1d VI.F .POST of’ F orel!lt Hil 1 MYCeach have a “Sunkiss” on the stocks ……..•.. HOWABOUTTHATLIST OF OLUBOFFIGEaS Come on, fellows, 60% of the total we only have about list~ …………• An individual or a Club may become a PATRONof ilYM f’or an-annual fee of l10.oo. Sponsor, $5.00. Patrons & Sponsors will be listed in the MYlJ Masthead. One f’ree subscription is included for said fees. LONG ISLAND MYC Officers for’ 1948, J.L.Sythoff, Comm., Otto Gerry V-Com.; James Fulton, Rear-Comm. ;• Walter Krebs, sec.; Jamee Warrell, 42 w. Hawthorne Av., Valley Stream, N.Y. Secretary. Jim eez the Long Island bunoh will have tails on their ships· this year, al’so sliding rigs. i HARRYDENKEWITZ,R.I .MYC has a “sun-. kiss” all planked, and a.new x-cl., from “Exemplar” design as well, ….. 16 MODEL YACHTING MONTHLY NEWSLETTER An exhibition of model yachts was put on by the Port Sales corp. Show at Port :·vashington, Jan. 14 – Feb.6. A and ll-class models were on display and the show was a great eucceee., .. E. P. PHILLIPS, Commodore of the Mill Pond MYC will organize a large group of boys, instructing them two or.three evenings a week free in the art of model building. The boats will be M-class from P.A.Fiske’ s 11 Plover” design.~ …. AINS BALLANTYNE now has a new li-claee under construction …•.. \’le hear that JAW~S McKIHNEYSr. of the Chipago LiYC t~1ed unsuccessfully to stop a truck while he was on foot, and was hospitalized. Hope Jim gets out soon, none the worse ……….. . .PAULA. SCHl[ITT of’ the Berkeley MYRC says GEORGEATTHOi’JEcarries his camera always set for an unusual pie, so we can see how ueorge gets those superlative action shots. Paul ea.ye that DAN HERB is missed as a regular at the Berkeley pool, having moved out of the city, but shows up occasional~y. He suggests that all the olube send in their history to lITM.• CHARLIE HEISTERKA1fP,Pres. of the Eastern Division was out in the mid,, west during January, but he c_ould find nothing but ice-boats sailing .• . Charlie is going out for two- day ~~ • racing for the ma.in events or our model yacht regattas …….. CHARLES SIMPSON o:f the seattle !ITC reports that weeds in thejr pond have sort o:f discouraged local sailing last season, but hopes for a better one this year …….. E.L.DUN has removed from Montreal to Vancouver, where he plans to join the local club ……. . •Col. L.E. BROOME,Victoria, B.C. has the Lucite vane Bug and agrees with DR. NORTH that model yachting has _golf skinned a mile.He says that the Seattle boys are the best sports in ‘~ ~11 his experience ~nd gre~t hoate .• TOMJ • ALLEN, 96.9 Scott st., San Diego, Cal., writes that he hopes to see a model yacht club started in hie city, and that the bright spot towards which they are steering is a proposed model basin, 800 x 250 feet which is to be incorporated in the dredging and otherwise improving of Mission Bay. The Kettenburg BOat Works people are also interested in the project. we wish them ggod luck FREDI K w. GWINNJR. of the }.rill Pond LfYChas become a Patron for Volume 2 of this magazine. we will have a new complete list on the Masthead soon •• w.D.HOPKINS sent us three new eubecriptione, all potential club members for Deeper nudson l!YC, They are each building a nsha.rpie”. Hoppy sez “Only by getting new, desirable members interested and then HELPING_ them get started can we hope to build up our sport. I am building a new X which I hope will be an im.prove~ent on the old 4X, The fi ttinge are of dural. An idea; why not have a wook-end regatta this summer sponsored by one or two clubs, at which one day would be spent pond sailing, and the other skiff sailing? A cup could be put up, and the winner declared the all-round Divisional Cham pion. Some oethod of scoring for the two days divided by two could be devised.” The MONTCLAIRtfYC is right on the ball, and sent us eleven subscrip tions in a lump, and say more later. This club, one of the mainstays of the A-class, has beco~e a Patron ~f MYM for the Second Volume. Officers for 1946 are, Wallis c. AXT, Comm., FRED M. MUIR, Vice-Col!II!l., RICHARDO. REGER, Sec-Treas., 139 Chestnut st., uontclair, N.J …. .. B.J. SANTOS, our dyna.nic Secretary, is going to town getting MYM.a better than fine break for cover plates and advertising type. we don’t know how he does it, and he sure is a big help …. FRED’ K Vl~GWINN and E.P.PHILLIPS of the Hill Pond i.ITC are going to build to the X-class plan of “GULL” by P.A.Fiske, They want to give the X-class skip pera of the Eastern Division a whirl and locally to take on CURRY,BROWN • and SYTHOFF.. . . . . . . . NIELS RASl.IUSSEN of the Prospect Park HYC wants to see an article on measuring the AClass. Will someone oblige?,,,WALTER KNAUSS of’ the same club has built a new X and a new M this winter, and several other skippers are also hard at work buHding there .. SAU KING of Toronto, JOE MACYof Chicago, J. -B. •SP0\7ART of Berkeley, R. B. MEIL al1d VI.F .POST of’ F orel!lt Hil 1 MYCeach have a “Sunkiss” on the stocks ……..•.. HOWABOUTTHATLIST OF OLUBOFFIGEaS Come on, fellows, 60% of the total we only have about list~ …………• An individual or a Club may become a PATRONof ilYM f’or an-annual fee of l10.oo. Sponsor, $5.00. Patrons & Sponsors will be listed in the MYlJ Masthead. One f’ree subscription is included for said fees. LONG ISLAND MYC Officers for’ 1948, J.L.Sythoff, Comm., Otto Gerry V-Com.; James Fulton, Rear-Comm. ;• Walter Krebs, sec.; Jamee Warrell, 42 w. Hawthorne Av., Valley Stream, N.Y. Secretary. Jim eez the Long Island bunoh will have tails on their ships· this year, al’so sliding rigs. i HARRYDENKEWITZ,R.I .MYC has a “sun-. kiss” all planked, and a.new x-cl., from “Exemplar” design as well, ….. 16 ,-no…,. OFFICIAL YACHT 25 (ENT.5 JOURNAL RACING OF THE MODEL ASS’N OF AMERICA c3. COPY MARCH 1946 & 2.·00 d. YEAR I q ‘-. MODEL YACHT RACING ASSOCIATION 1946 OF AMERICA 1921 The object of this Association is to encourage and promote the designing, buildini, and racing •of model sailing yachts, and to establish uniform rules and regulations for the conduct of the sport. Model yacht clubs in the United States or possessions having a roster of not less than ten members are eligible for membership in the M. Y, R. A, A. Annual dues are ten dollars. Applica” tions for membership shall be made in ”<- writing to the National Secretary, and t-..__shall be signed by the Commodore and Secretary of the applicant club, stating ~ the number of members the applicant . club has, and accompanied by a fee of j . ten dollars, as dues for the calendar Y to be returned if the application is jected. A model yacht competing in any tional, Divisional or Invitation Reg: must be registered in the M, Y. R. A Member clubs are rrouped in divisi the Eastern, Mid-western, and Pac and are units formini the M. Y. R. A Each division has it.a own regional cers and divisional championship ra The N a.tional Association has di. charge of the National Champions} and other National Races, and pror. gates Rules and Regulations for the< duct of the sport. j . , ~-:~ ~~cu~cus=cu;:n ~ ~ l . , I .. ' • ...:..ctQcu=u=:iuu~~ YOU SHOULD JOIN THE M. Y. R. A. A. BECAUSE YOU· OBTAIN ~ r-Protection of !ts Constitution, Regulations, Sailing and Rating Rules. I ~ Prestige for your hobby, club and country. ;',~ "eOpportunity to share the destiny of your chosen sport, locally, nationally, internati -......'--ally, and politically, -~ Inductance into the ftnest comradeship of any sport. ·-,-,, A wider social radius of friends and kindred spirits. r-,.. Participation in Divisional, National and International recreative competition . :__'I. A greater satisfaction from the time and substance expended and the experience gaiI: ~u~u~~~~~~u~~~~t. r-. \_.t\ MODEL YACHT RACINC ASSOCIATION OF AMERICJ OFFICIAL PUBLICATIONS Sailing Rules (Pond) and General Rules ...... 20c each. Lots of ten or more, 18c er Sailing Rules (Skiff) ......................... lOc each. Lots of ten or more Sc ef M-Class Rating Rules (Marblehead 50-800) ..... lOc each. Lots of ten or more, 8c et X-Class Rating Rules (1000 sq. in. S.A.) ....... lOc each. Lots of ten or more, 8c eE Standard Starting Schedules ................. 20c each. Lots of ten or more, 18c e1 Measurement Certificate Blanks ............... A-Class, 6-M Class, $1.25 per hund1 M. Y. R. A. A. R. Rubber Stamp (to record S.A.) .................. 50c each, postpr Make check or M.O. payable to W. F. POST, Treasurer, M, Y. R. A. A. 3064 Coleridge Road, Cleveland Heights, 18, Ohio r-;ATTlf PUBUC U8?A7: MODEL YACHTING MONTHL MARCH, 1946 N0.13 L- a . •, .. [ I, t s BILL RICH'S A-CLASS SHOWINGTRIPOD MAST. F I N I sH FI CH T By CLINTON T. SIMON the foreside o~ the stick and he wa all set. That, fellows, did it! H was using the '"synchronous sheet which was illustrated in an issue o MYM, so with a sheepish grin on m puss I finally got around to ea.yin "All set, let's go!" \'/ell,, we got off to a flyin start, neither one seeming to take lead after covering about 150 fee of the course. Now his boat takes wing-and-wing position that bodes n good for the "Alert" (that being th name of my boat), and I'll be dog gonad if the other's sails don' hold that position all the way dow the lake. While I am gybing my hea off for at least half the course! Well, sir, there is probably n need to tell you who came out th winner. Afte~ we pulled out at th leeward end of the lake I had to tal-: a look to convince myself that h was not using a Liverpool Boyt make_ that jib remain "wung out 11 lik it did. However, he assured me tha by the mere placing of the vane : couple of degrees off the centerlin, it assured him of his sails remain• ing wung out ·once she felt the wind· Now I ask you, is that fair? No' I figured, it was my turn. I woul< trim the pants off him on the return leg, a beautiful beat to windward. Oh, yeah? We got the boats ov· erboard and start off on the por· tack, which ·seemed the most favorable. After we got out about fort;y feet or so he apparently got a fin~ break, for as we near the ea.et bank. hie boat flutters her sails a bit, breaks tack, and starts off witt everything drawing,including my temper. So while he is making merry, J am squatting on the edge of the lake praying my boat in so that I can reset my gye and overtake him,I hope, by pinching her a bit on the starb'o leg. The Alert finally comes asher I stop her, make the trim and point her out at a 45 degree angle to the wind, as I always get my sails full and drawing as is the requirement. Well, I figure everything is going to be all ri8ht. I make my play with the gye about one-quarter of the width of the lake, my opponent still going off on the starb'd ta.ck, and headfng for a calm spot that lies along the west bank for about half the length of the l~ke. However I do not see him ·showing any sign of worry; he doesn•~ start running over to head her off, and I am getting a bit nervous for his sake as the lake has a concrete bank a.Q.d does no good to a boat that hits it. Now it eomes he heads straight for_the calm spot and starts to slow right down to a walk. This, I figure, is where he ur Uodel Yachting Monthly ha.a in recent issue~ presented articles about various types of steering and sail setting rigs, and it has proven to be a liot question among the fellows considered to be authorities on sailing. How, I believe, it is time that \ve fellows who a.re not authorities, but just plain skippers, who have to bear the brunt of the barrage had a say in the matter. And so, with your pernission I will take you on an imaginary trip with me and see what effect it will have. To start our journey I shall assume that you, like myself, have for the past several years been using the Bra.ine gear, together with all the known deck rigging that ~oes with it. we have found 1 t usable and efficient. We have sailed against boats equipped with vanes and sliding rigs. Possibly you have had no trouble in taking over some of these boa.ts so rigged? But there are wide di~essions between us, for instance we must have our mast stepped just so, raked just the right way, and of course we need the usual coup~e of trial runs and beats just to check and make sure. Well, now that we have done all this we a.re read)' for some keen competition. The weather is fine, the breeze---, well, enough to make us happy anyhow. How a.long comes a fellow all rigged up with a self-tacking vane, sliding rig, and all the latest gadgets that perhaps we frown upon. When he· tunes up it does not take him any time at all. He doesn't worry about whether his stick is raked just so,· or - even if it is in the precise location. If there are any changes to be made, why, doggone it, all he does is slide the whole rig, sailo and all. How about that? Then we begin to .wonder. If there are any faults in his sail sets, he can compensate for them without so much as removing a eingle·ehroud, whereas we must practically dismantle the whole darn rig to accomplish any changes whatsoever Well, we finally get the boa.ts overboard. The starting leg is a dead run, so I check the tension on the quadrant, and set my jib-steeringlines, also fool around a bit with the main sheet.Then I have to decide just where the sheets should be placed on the quad. ~·Jell, ha.ving done all that, I look up at my competitor and find him squatting there with a bored expression on his pan, and he says, "Well,it's about time you were ready; I was beginning to think you would take all day!" iou see, all he had to do was to move ONE bowser that was attached to ® 2 F I N I sH FI CH T By CLINTON T. SIMON the foreside o~ the stick am he was. all set. That, fellows, did it! He was using the '"synchronous sheet" which waa illustrated in an issue or 1ITM, so with a sheepish grin on my puss I finally got around to saying "All set, let's go!" Viel],, we got off to a flying start, neither one seeming to take a lead after covering about 150 feet of the course. Now his boat takes a wing-and-wing position that bodes no good for the "Alert" (that being the name or my boat), and I'll be doggoned if the ·other's sails don't hold that position all the way down the lake. While I am gybing my head off for at least half the course! Well, sir, there is probably no need to tell you who came out the winner. After we pulled out at the leeward end of the lake I had to take a look to convince myself that he was not using a Liverpool Boy to make. that jib remain "wung out" like it did. However, he assured me that by the mere placing of the vane ·a couple of degrees off the centerline it assured him of his sails remaining wung out once she felt the wind. Now I ask you, ia that fair? Now I figured, it was my turn. I would trim the pants off him on the return leg, a beautiful beat to windward. Oh, yeah? We got the boats overboard and start off on the port tack, which seemed the most favorable. After we got out about forty feet or so he apparently got a fine, break, for as we near the ea.at bank, . his boat flutters her sails a bit, breaks tack, and starts off with· everything drawing,including my temper. So while he is ma.king merry, I am squatting on the edge of the lake praying my boat in so that I can reset my gye and overtake him,I hope,« by pinching her a bit on the eta.rb'd leg. The Alert finally comes ashor~ I stop her, make the trim and point her out at a 45 degree angle to the wind, as I always get my sails full and drawing as is ~he requirement. Well, I figure everything is goin~ to be all ri~t. I make my play with the gye about one-quarter of the width of the lake, my opponent still going off on the starb'd tack,' and heading for a calm spot that lies along the west bank for about half the length of the l~ke. However I do not see him ·showing any sign of worry; he doesn•t start running over to head her off, and I am getting a bit nervous for his sake as the lake ha.a a concrete bank aod does no good to a boat that hits it. Now it comes,. he heads straight for the calm spot and starts to slow right down to a walk. This, I figwe, is where he ur Uodel Yachting Monthly has in recent issueP presented articles about various types of steering a.nd sail setting rigs, and it has proven to be a not question among the fellows considered to be a.uthor_itiee on sailing. Now, I believe, it is time that we fellows who a.re not authorities,but just plain skippers, who have to bear the brunt of the barrage had a say in the matter. And so, with your per~ission I will take you on an imaginary trip with me and see what effect it will have. To start our journey I shall assume that you, like myself, have for the past several years been using the Braine gear, together with all the known deck rigging that Koes with it. we have found it usable and efficient. We have sailed against boa.ts equipped with vanes and e·liding rigs. Possibly you have had no trouble in ta.king over some of these boats so rigged? But there a.re wide di~eeeions between us, for instance we must have our ma.et stepped just so, raked just the right way, and of course we need the. usual couple of trial runs and beats just to check and make sure. Well, now that we have done all this we a.re ready for some keen competition. The weather is fine, the breeze---, well, enough to make us happy anyhow. How a.long comes a fellow all rigged up with a self-ta.eking vane, eliding rig, and all the latest gadgets that perhaps we frown upon. When he tunes up it does not take him any time at all. He doesn't worry about whether his stick is raked just so,· or. even if it is in the precise location. If there are any changes to be made, why, doggone it, all he does is elide the whole rig, sails and all. How about that? Then we begin to .wonder. If there are any faults in his sail sets, he can compensate for them without so much as removing a single ·shroud, whereas we must practically dismantle the whole darn rig to accomplish any changes whatsoever Well, we finally get the boats overboard. The starting leg is a dead run, so I check the tension on the quadrant, and set my jib-eteeringlines, also fool around a bit with the main sheet.Then I have to decide just where the sheets should be placed on the quad. '.'/ell, ru..ving done all that, I look up at my competitor and find him squatting there with a bored expression on his pan, and he says, "Well,it's about time you were ready; I was beginning to think you would take all day!" tou see, all he had to do was to move ONE bowser that was attached to ® 2 di 99 a natural death, as I know from past experience that one can't get off this bank in time to make up any lost distance. Believe it or not,the darn boat gets just to the. edge of the calm spot,and as if by some feat of magic, breaks tack, comes about, and pretty as you please heads for the finish mark! fellers, I tell you it just about did for me. Here I was choked to dee. th on my own fine gyeing? And that is all there ffi:!.S to it. He takes me like Grant took Richmond coming and going. And so you now know the story of 1!ister Average Skipper. Has 1t ever happened to you? By the way, just for the record, when 1 finally got to the finish line, I ups and asks the feller what in the name of all thats holy made that boat come out of the calm spot. His reply, casual and unstudied was simply, "Oh, thatthat was my gye, it was set to work just as soon as I hit anv dead spots. I noticed that edge along there on the run up, and figured I might run into it,so I made my gye just taut enough to pull the vane feather over on the other tack if and when I hit it". ;~o,v I leave it to you, can these miracles be done with a Braine or any other tensioning device? If so, would the owner of same please come to the fore and let us poor chaps know about it? As for me, Gentlemen, I am going to use a sliding-rig, synchronous sheet control, plus the wonderful self-tacking vane! That,s all Brother. NEWS AND COMMENT AINS BALLANTYNE of the 1.Iill Pond llYC has become the second Patron of 1fYMfor its second volume ... Lt.BoBBY BALLANTYNEof the same club is now out of the Air Force and back in NY. THOMASALLEN and THOM..4.S ALLEU JR • fl.ave become sponsors for lfYl.f46. TOlii JR. is in Kyushu, Japan, has traveled extensively as an interpreter for the U.S.Earines. His dad writes·: "The Jape, when they find Tom can speak and write their laneuage,think he is a man of great importance, and this makes everything nice for him, and they do everything they can. He takes things as they come, and altho overburdened with Jap politeness, trusts them just as far as he could throw an elephant by the tail" •••••• ROY F. CLOUGH, the "Father of the Marblehead 50-800 Class, and Honorary President of the Fastern Divis~on, also holde of :ro. 1 ree;istra tion, M-class, has been further honored by a life membership in the Ryde (Isle of' Wight, England) HYC. • Their letter reads in part: "we are not unn_indful of' what you have done for model yachting, and to show our appreciation of your work, it was proposed at our annual meeting that you should be asked to honor the club by becor.1ing a Life .i:.ler1ber. Life menbership in entirely honorary, and entitles the member to full privelegea of the club and is only bestowed for some outstanding service to the club or the sport. There is only one other life mer.1ber". ~-rehear that Mr .Cle-ugh has accepted the honor ...... congratulations, Roy ....... . C.T.SIIION iA the proud armer of H. Curry1s 1!-clase "Skipper", complete with vane and sliding rig .... WILLIA!! FAIRFULL of the Wellington (Canada), UYC likes 1.m.1 and writes that hie club consisted of Claes A and M, but the laat season the boys turned out four R-lietres. This club sails on an artificial lake at the Ontario Reformatory, a Gover'1Dent Institution, They ha1 a very successful season of sailing, including a two dny regatta, for A-olass, 7 entries, on the first day, an:l 8 6-Ms the second day, with a picnic lunch for all, both days. The MACEYBROTHERS, o~ the Chi cago JJYC are still ardent fans. John has a plan of "SunJf AS FLOORS SEcr,ow !IT 11/l/NSTFl”f 1-11,•lltropl~e C.a•llf!lllirt .aH ..clwJ BOLT Bent1\ibin5ttdd of vti 1’£ to or P4Sfln9 fl,ru S£rlf!w-e’jef’ SUPPORT ‘\I/IN~ lo/lJT ..-,,,, ,.,. ,, :: ‘POSITION of CHAIN•SLIDf (ontop ofde,k) BRAC.Eor far ~r CARLINE for 1111111 HORSE (/1 -HO~~: :: /FLOOR B.~UPPORT lj ‘!f._:: SP BEAMS f, SLID/WC, Al>J\JSfA P-1C, ~ CARLINE n1ar/lnt 11red E/1/DSof TOP of . £DECK STRINf:rE.P. ’14-“‘C0I\MINC,’t – -rT :: ., :r: j:: -~ ;: ::.. ,;1 l:«s-M~u BACKBONE. :: Wll’luNUTS-.,. JI.HFINDLfi ~ SHEER! CLAMP : n ,. 1rIl(GoTIW~1 INTERIORPARTS BUILDING PLANKED MODELS INTERIOR ~ ~ By C.H. .AH Ripu FARLEY Reseroed PARTS thru the deck and into the clamps, so the chain-plates will be parallel with the curved sides of the yacht. However, if a eliding or an adjustable rig is planned.chain-elides are used, and these muot be kept parallel with each other, thus one end of each chain-elide will be further inboard than the other end. In this case two·apecial deckbeams are used, with baeee wide enough to take the screw fastenings. See Fig. IP-1. The hull of your model yacht having been planked am removed from the building board, and the frames trimmed off to final inside shape, the next procedure is to fit and install various interior parts. Framework in a model is not as extensive as in a major yacht, and many members are omitted, being unnecessary on a racing model. The main parts used on a model are, deck-beams, decketringer, mast supports or stanchions, and hatch coaming. Other interior parts,installed at the option of the builder, are keel.bolt supports, when the keel-bolts continue up thr·u the backbone to the LV/L; ( extra heavy floors are sometimes substituted for the supports); internal wire braces to help take up the pull of the side stays or shrouds on the sheer-clamp; a carrying handle fastened to the backbone or at the tops of :keel-bolt ~u.pporte, Most of the parts mentioned in this paragraf can be omitted on all classes except the A-class. It is unnecessary to carry keel bolts to the LWL in small models, but for large models with a heavy lead keel the supports help to ease strain on the backbone, having a long lever. Excepting where a nod.el is very lightly built, internal shroud braces may be dispensed with. Methods of installing these are shown on Fig. IP-1. The use of ash,oak or elm ribs bent while wet·from steaming, under deckbeam, and along frame edge, and fastened with brass screws after the rib is dry, is recommended instead of the \Vire braces. See Fig. IP-1. The same method can be employed on large models where the jib-rack is situated, or at the forward and after ends of a eliding rig. DECK-BEAMCAMBER.Deck-beBlIIB have oamber (crown or arch) at their top, which is designed to give great atrnegth and insure proper drainage of the deck. The bottom edge of all deckbeams must be kept STRAIGHT, and never be concaved, else they will be weakened, and straighten out. Standard nautical text-books disagree as to whether or not ALLdeckbeams in any certain boat should have the SAMEcamber, all cut from a master pattern fitting the greatest beam or the boat, and cutting off the ends of the other beams as the width of the boat decreases. Some text-books claim that deckbeams on a yacht must each be plotted separately, or trouble will be had. Thia ia borne out by experience and is perhaps correct, as near the ends of the yacht the one-patternbeama are often found to be too flat. The practical method,to eave time and trouble, is to cut all beams to the same camber, but near the ends of the yacht, inetal1 beams having a slightly greater crown, and using a batten to fair in all the beama,.pare off or shim up any bumps or hollows. AMOUNTOF CAMBER.The amount of Qamber for deck-beams depends on the designer, who usually _.draws a line on the prorile showing height or the deck at centerline. Where no line is given, you can draw one in, On the average, a small model will take a crown of 1/4″ in height, a larger model, 3/8″ to 1/2tt. Crown is limited on the A-class to l-12th of an inch for every two inches of beam, hence an A-class of 12” beam would be limited to a crown of 1/2 inch. Other classes are not limited. • DECK BEAMSare transverse members that keep the sides of the hull from spreading or flattening, and thus preserve the shape of the yacht, and also support the deck. Deck- beams should be fastened securely at both ends .to the frames or clamps, arid never left “floating” or unfastened, as so~e builders suggest. A model yacht does not need so many deckbeams as does a major yacht. On the latter they are spaced comparatively close together; a 22-footer will have as many as 00 deck-beams, plus carlinea, One deck-beam at each frame station on planked models, or 4 toe inches aPc,i.rt on “dugouts” is aufricient, even on the largest type such as the ~-class. Where chain-plates are to be used for securing the aide stays they can be fastened by screws passing PLOTTING DECK CROWN. The deck crown is laid out as a parabolic curve, as follows:. Draw a. base-line about 1/4″ longer than the length of the deckbeam. Find: the middle of the line and erect a perpendicular. Set compass to height or crown,and. using intersection of base line and perpendicular, draw arc of circle as shown 6 -= BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. INTERIOR PARTS is The first drawing shows the entire beam crown, the second drawing but because of limited apace, twice the scale of the first, for clarity, shown for only half its real length. :,_ i ,,_,t j —–t-1 B-A-~E-L-1 N-E-+-‘~—i~K\\~,-t—ft——t——-t—-=-,-== —–I-I…:=:~—- 2 ,I in ia 3 1===-== \ ] ‘ill[ 1——+– 2 -?””1 I ~ ~–,—–+- _ As the ends of such special beams will be rather thick, they can be tapered down at tips to about 3/32″, plane or sandwheel. Aa this type of beam is comparatively wide it will be strong enough when mortised into the sheer-clamp, and each end fastened with four 1/4 #1 or 3/8 #1 flat head braes screws, slightly countersunk, The middle of the beam, where it is mortised into the deckstringer may also be tapered, as practically all the pull of the side stays comes at the outer end.a of the beame. on drawing,top of this page. Div~de the arc into four_ equal parts, also divide base-line from perpendicular to the intersection of the arc int~ four equal parts. Connect the spots, numbered 1,2,3. Now divide base-line into four equal parts on each aide of the perpendicular center-line, or eight parts in all. Erect a perpendicular at each of these six spots, and number them 1,2,3. Transfer the heights of the eloping lines within the arc to the perpendiculars 1,2,3. With a batten held in place with pine or weights, sweep a line thru these spots, which will be the abs.po of the deck-crown. ‘ DECK STRINGER. Major yachts don’t use a deck stringer,having many more deckbeams than a model,although some major yachts have a “deck etrongback (which ia not very heavy) to support the king-plank. The deck stringer of a model ties the deckbeams together fore-and-aft, takes the place of multitudinous beams~ and helps keep the deck in shape, as well aa providing a solid base under the thin deck to take the ·screw fastenings for various fittings. The deck stringer is set on t.he center-line of the yacht, and is mortised into the deck-beams, stern head, and stern-piece. Some builders use a few short decl stringers instead of one long one, placing the shorter ones at points of greatest strain. However, to prevent the deck ~aving in, it is beet to use the continuous type, excepting when horses are used, in whict case carlines are installed, and the stringer at such points is omitted. See Fig. IF-1. Deck stringers are usually 3/18″ by 5/8″. Soft wood such as pine w1r not hold screws for f 1 t tings well, sc spruce or rna.hogany is recommended. DIMENSIONSOF DECKBEAMS vary with each builder, but from 3-lR” to 1/4″ stock is enough for most classes but maybe using up to 5-16″ for the wider beams on an A-class yacht. The height depend.a on the amount of the crown, plus allowance for the ems, which may be about 1/4″ or 3-18″ high. LAJi!INATED DECK BEAMSare stronger than solid ones. Glue up two layers of scrap 1/8″ plank with waterproof glue for each deck-beam. When glue is set, cut to finished shape. TOP__.,. SPECIAL DECK BEAMS, wide variety, is used with a slidin~ or adjustable rig. Make of two 1/B layers glued together while bent to the desired camber, around several nails driven in a board, using sma.11 clamps to hold layers together. The width of such beams is from l” to 1 1/4″. The middle is usually carved out, somewhat like the following sketch: (top View), VANE GEAR SUPPORT. If a vane gear is used, provision must be made for a strong, rigid support under the thin deck to screw the vane spindle to. Unlese the stringer is rugged,a block of wood is placed under it. See Fig. IP-1. EE==============~s~,D~c~;,,~============~ [ ~ASE LIN£ TOP1, 7 BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. INTERIOR PARTS COALIING. The hatch coaming is a box frame bordering the hatch opening,over which the hatch cover fits, thus preventing water from running below. It is supported by fastening to deckbeams and to short carlines which are fore-and-a.ft members running between the deck-beams. These carlines also serve to form a landing ~or the deck at the sides of the hatch. ‘.:.’he coamin,e; . projects above decklevel from 1/4″ to 3/8″ according to the builder’s preference. Allowance for thickness of the deck should be made. The coaming extends below the lower edge of the carlines and deckbeams. Some builders omit this internal coaming and just fit the deck to cover the carlines, and then screw a “~alee” coaming on top of the deck. This method is not shipshape an:l rill show ugly screw holes, and it is•nt leak-proof as is the coaming illustrated, where screws are put through where they will not be noticed, as may be seen by an examination of the details. Only a few screws will be necessary, but use plenty of waterproof glue. Chamfer the corners of the cos.ming as ah.own. The coaming above deck-level may be rounded off. STANCHIONS a.re t’itted to support the ma.st when it is stepped on deck. A r:iast stepped below deck ie now a rnusuem piece in the U.S. Stanchions are installed in such a way as to support the mast when it is moved forward or aft. Where a sliding rig is used, the length of the support may·be 6 or 7 inches, and it 1e beet to make it slightly longer than is actually indicated. Four stanchions, each 3/8″ or 1/2 11 square are distributed equally. See Fig. IP-1. HATCHAND HATCHCOA.I.:ING. Many SI:IB.11models, such as the “M-Class” have no hatch, and get along very well. When a sliding rig is used,the hatch, with its coamings and cover, are in the way, unless the hatch is built flush with the deck, in which case it is hard to get at. Drainage is provided by a deck-plug instead of” the batch-and-sponge method. ~’or good looks a hatch, includ ing the cover, should stand not more than 3/8 9 to 1/2″ above deck level. Large models are more difficult to carry,· or lift in and out of the water, and a hatch is a necessity so the carrying handle can be reached. SQI:le builders put a handle on deck, but nothing looks worse. ~ TOP VIEW ~ of LIFT HATC.H A l&J CQ Q~ ~~ _);: … 11.J ~~–‘~~~ u • ~ ~ ~ Q:: ~ ….. ‘.l: Q ~· ~ c:: u 0 Q l&J ~ ~ ~ .SID£ VIEW of COPrM/!ICr a..CARLINE SECT/ON of ])fCX BEAM ttA.TCHCOVER. The hatch cover may have a frame of 1/4″ thick wood, and a roof of 1/16″ plywood. The cover should fit close over the coaming, but not too tight, as wood swells when wet.· Dovetailing corners of the frame is unnecessary. Use a joint as shown (next page). It is customary to build covers with a hollow on the underside of :f’rame at forward and 8 ~ BUILDING PLANKED MODELS. INTERIORPARTS bone, the handle is beet made o~ metal, with the ends bent to a double right angle. Various types of handles are shown in the following sketches. fter ends, and the aides bevelled, anderneath, to fit the crown of deck. ~he top or roof of cover should h&v·e a camber athwartehips about the same as that of the deck, and not be flat. The top should project l/l6th of an inch beyond the frame. ro=::—,—–~ WOO!> a;• {o ALUM y l}fvM· CHANNEL Sec.. p I:={ €, ALVM.TU8€-flaftel’\ ends COVER:\, ~J(W!/i’.A!W!/’1′!!;:~”fil/;?!’.’/1′<"!W1t INSTALLINGIHTERIOR PARTS ············lo~····················. ......•......... -.............. ····· t>ed<1 Stl>t Vll:W – r- ff ATlH ~ ‘FRRM£ TtJPVTEW COP.HERS CHflMFENEb …. – FLUSH HATCH. If it is desired to have the hatch cover flush with the deck it must be carefully ma.de and fitted to prevent ja-mming or leakage. The best method is to construct a , frame below deck level, the sides of frame having a bevel, with the cover bevelled to fit much as a bung. The bevelled edges may be faced with thin sheet cork or other insulation. ;.•:: ::,;.: · .. · …. ,. •.. ,:,, .. ,.,_ •. -~·-·, .-:1:·,:~, Before proceeding to do any actual work on interior parts or fra~ework, stop and figure out the locations. The deck-beams are placed one at each frame, but one or two may have to be shifted to accomodate the hatch, or another beam or two added. Before finally installing interior parts, paint or varnish them on the edges that do not need to be glued. It is difficult to varnish or paint the bottom edges of deckbeama deck-stringer &c once they have been permanently installed. DECKBEA!IS. Do NOT mortise deckbeame- into the clamps, but glue and screw them to the large end left at sides of frames. If an extra beam is needed for the hatch, this m~y be mortised. slightly into the clamp,or small blocks of wood may be glued on clamp at each side of deck-beam, or under it, using braes screws also if desired. Mark crown and centerline on the deckbeam stock fron the master. pattern. Cut each beam slightly longer than necessary for fit, to allow for tripnning. Cut beam to shape of the crown, finishing on a sand-wheel. The ends of moat beams will have to be bevelled to fit the curve of .. ~ ~;=~~=~”=•~· =r=~~~~~~~~ . KEEL BOLT SUPPORTS. See Paragraph 5, page 9 1 December MYM{1945) for a description of these members. the.inside edge of the sheer-clamp. Alea note that the shorter a beam is cut, the higher the ends will be, so trim off excess wood so the ends are not too high, keeping the bottom edge of beam STRAIGHT. NEVERconcave the bottom edge, or the beam will CARRYINGHANDLE. When a oarrying handle ie necessary, it may be made of wood or aluminum, holes bored· at the end.a, and fastened at the tops Of the keel-bolt supports by’ screwing the wing-nuts hard down on them. \There no supports are used, and the wing-nuts, insulated with leather washers, bear directly on the back- tend to flatten out. About 3/8″ will be enough vertical height for the ends of the deck-bear:is, which should allow enough stock for fastening to frame tops with screws and glue. 9 BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. top of each beam. Remove threa.d;mark centerline on aides of beams, using a small try-square. With dividers mark a spot on each side of the C.L. of deckbeams, as a guide for cutting the mortise for the deck-stringer. Stay well inside the spots, ao that a ciose fit may be had. A out ma.y be made with a jeweller•s saw or a fine toothed coping-saw to the depth of the mortise,holding a small block of wood against the beam to steady it. Chisel-or out out mortise, using a section of the stringer for fit. Try and get mortises true so stringer will land properly. If the stringer is extra wide, the outer upper edges may need bevelling to fair in with the deck-beam camber, eo in such a case leave it slightly high above the contour of deckbeama. Mortise out stem-piece. for the forward end of the stringer, which may be cut to a wedge-shape there. ?.!ortise out the stern-piece for aft end of stringer. If a hatch is fitted, be sure there are deck-beams fitted to fasten the coaming to. The deck-stringer is out off where 1t junps the hatch opening. Try str~nger in mortises,triIDI:ling to a close fit. Check stringer with a batten, to avoid humps or hollows. Bore a hole t~.rough the stringer to take the rudder tube. Before permanently fastening the deck-stringer in the mortises, give it one or two coats of paint or varnish on the under side, skipping the places where it fits the □ortises. Also fit and install stanchions or mast-supports and all other parts that would be difficult to get at were· the stringer set permanently. Countersunk brass screws and water-proof glue a.re used to fasten the stringer into the deckbeam mortises. Fit deckbeams one at a time. The ends should butt fair against the inner edge of sheer-clamp, and close up to the face of the frame_. The top of the deckbeam mu.at co-incide with the marked line on the frame showing the sheer-line and deck camber. The frame top ia trimmed off to the deck crown· camber after deckbeama and the deck stringer are installed, Use a batten as you proceed, and check the fairness of the deckbeama, ao there will be no hollows or humps. Be careful not to spring out the aides of the yacht by using too long a deckbeam, or pulling the aides in by using too short a beam. Remove temporary crosa-epalla or ‘braces already installed, only aa each beam ie fitted, and put them back if you remove the beam. Drill and countersink for one or two ·r1at-head braes screws, which are put thru beam and into the frame, using waterproof glue aa well. DECK CROWNJIG. Make a jig with the same deck-crown camber as the master pattern, but have it concave instead of convex. Make the .jig a i~ttle longer than the-~idest deckpee.m and mark a center line on it. Thia jig ia a laminated curved strip about an inch and a half wide, each lamination being about 1/8 inch thick, and in turn glued to a handle with concaved surface. ~lue the two laminations together f’irst, and then the whole to the handle. When it is dry, glue a strip of garnet paper or garnet cloth to the concaved surface. This jig is used to fair in the deck-beams, deck-stringer, sheerclamp and the line of sheer as well. Move it back and forth, holding it steady ~nd approximately on the c.L. of the yacht. You will find that you can do a better job with this jig than by trying to use a plane or a sand-block. Sight the sheer by eye from various angles aa you proceed, and check with a batten also. STANCHIOUSOR 11ASTSUPPORTS. Fit stanchions, placing them to take the limit of movement of ma.st or rig, or a 11 t tle more. A short menber as wide as the deckstringer and about 3/8 in. thick ties the tops of stanchions together, and is placed directly under the deck-stringer. Set 1/8″ dowells in bottom of stanchions and into the backbone to keep the stanchion bases from skidding. Put brass screws thru stringer, re-enforcing member and down into tops of stanchions, countersinking screw heads. Be careful not to hump up or depress the deckstringer with too long or too short a .stanchion. INSTALLING DECK STRINGER. Take a strong linen thread or a light line, _and being careful to get the exact centerline at bow and atern,tack one end of line in stem-piece on centerline, and pull line taut across tops of deck-beams, leaving free end hang below the y~oht’e weight pencil oounter, INTERIOR PARTS KEEL BOLT SUPPORTS. If you are to install keel-bolt supports, or extra floors or braces to steady the lead ballast, these are best fitted when the deck-stringer is off the boat. tied to~ to keep line taut. With sharp or scriber mark centerline on 10 INTERIORPARTS BUILDING PLANKEDMODELS. HATCHCOAl{IN~. Cut mortises into t~e faces of the deckbeams to take t~e butts of the two carlines which ~pport the side coaming and laming 9 for the deck. The carlines should be r1uah with the deckbeam at the upper d~e of the latter. Note that the ~atch coaming is built inside the carlines. To locate position of the carlines, measure on each side of the c.L. of the yacht. cut a cha.mf’er at the corners of the hatch, rlth a jack-knife or small chisel. A chamfer oa.kee a strong joint, holds the and true. 00 a~ing rigid HATCHCOVER. The hatch cover for use with the coaming just described is called a 9 lift-hatch”, and fits OVERthe coe.ning, never inside. Build the frame from 3/16″ or 1/4 stock, with enough vertical height to clear the coaming. It ma.y be beet to wait until the deck is installed before fitting the hatch-cover. J.’he corners should be char.ifered , or cut out and butted. Thwartship ends are cambered to match the crown of the deck. Botton and top edges of the frame must be bevelled, to take the crown of roof and deck. You can use 1/4″ brass brads to fasten the corners of frame, but first drill holes with a very small drill, and use w-proof glue also. The top of hatch cover may be fastened to the frame with these anal~ brass brads, which nay be lightly countersunk and mal:e a neat r·astening, with no screw holes to fill up. CARLIUES for supporting such as travelers or horses course fitted, if used. fittings a.re of Now that all the interior parts and the fra~ework of the yacht are co~pleted, the entire inside of the hull, including all wooden parts, is varnished or painted. Take plenty of time for this, and let the stuff DRY a~ter each coat. Be sure and use a good grade of varnish or paint. The first and second coats should be well thinned out with turps, the covering coats as it comes from the can. Two or three final coats should be suf’ficient to seal the wood and prevent leakage. Fill small cracks carefully with paint or varnish; larger cracks or spaces such as are found near the garboard or rabbet with canoe- glue, seam putty, or other Wgunk”. Llaybe some paint or varnish rlil seep thru pianking joints from the inside of the hull to the outside. ir it does, ished off. The reason that this has not been done before is because in the process of handling, and in fitting interior parts, the outside may be dented or scratched, and the finishing would have to be done 9ver. The ridges where plank edges join are cut down and rounded off with a very sl!la.ll plane, 2 t9 3 inches long, .honed to a razor edge and set very fine. watch out that the grain of wood is follmved, that is., do not plane against grain, but with it or across it. After the ridges have been rounded off by plane, use MEDIUMgarnet paper, wrapped around a sand-block, followed in turn by fine and very fine. Never use coarse garnet pa.per or sand pa.per, as eoratches ma.de in the planking with coarse pa.per are often impossible to remove. Be careful not to dig in or scratch, and take plenty of time. The sand-block may be flat, or ~ade with a concave curve to fit the general curve of tb9 yacht. The author prefers a flat sand-block, 8 or 10 inches long and about 3/16″ thick and about 2 i~ches wide. Thia sort of block can be used to straddle two sections at a time, and gets a fairer curve. Sand diago·nally more than straight fore and a.ft along the waterlines for best result. At places where the tooth – pick fastenings a~e set. give special treatment, because if you are not careful, the planking is apt to be sanded into a groove or a depression and the picks stand “high”. The reason for this is that the picks are hard wood tbirch) and so require more sarxling than the relatively soft planking. When the outside of the hull has been finally sanded,the hull is given one or two thinned-o~t coats of varnish, paint, or enamel, followed by covering coats· as it cornea from the can. .i.oater on· we will have a chapter on painting. deal The next installment will with decking problens. . (TO be continued) ,r, * * * * * * * * * * Don’t allow your model to develop the embarrassing wobble, bounce, and slump of an uncontrolled bust-line. Use our noncollapsable bra-spinnaker, which is pert and flared for fun, wipe off with rag dipped in gasoline or turps. As soon as one or two interior coats have been applied and are dry, the outside of the hull may be fin~ and just pa.eked with California glamour. -From newspaper advt: all we did was add the word spinnaker~ 11 • PAINTING MODEL YACHTS By C. o. BROOK EorroR’s NoTE:-Mr. Brook has handled paint in a practical way for twrnty-eight years; he comes from a family who have handled paint and its various pigments for nearly a century; he is an artist, both on canvas and outdoor displays; he now cwns and operates a studio, and has made a very close study of painting in nearly all known fields, and his knowledge of painting models is given readers of MoolL YAcHTn-fC cnly after repeated experiments and great expense. Now that winter is nearly upon us, we will be turning our minds to building models; or, if we have a model and do not intend to build another, we may decide to repaint the old one, and repair it where needed. Usually, when the practical painter tells the layman how to paint, he may as well talk Arabic for all the benefit obtained, so I am going to make an effort to tell you, in a simple way, the only practical method of painting models that have to take a lot of abuse and which we still want to keep slick on her wetted surface or under body. The two principal requisites are patience and ambition. Haste means waste and laziness gets us nowhere. The sensible painter of a model boat that is to be placed in actual service will allow himself one month to do the job. Before I go into the actual w.ork, I wish to state a few facts that, unheeded, will lead you astray and you will have accomplished nothing. First, do not ask a house painter to advise you on how to mix your colors. Second, do not ask the painter of large vessels, nor the decorator of interiors. If you must ask questions of someone, I would tJdvise go_ing to the most reliable commercial sign painter, one who does plenty of high grade bright or varnished s:gns, as his work brings him more nearly into the field of model painting than any of the other prof ess :ons mentioned. Third, do not use lacquers on any boat unless you would come to rapid grief and see a beautiful finish drop to an irreparable mess. It is advisable to stay away from any quick- • drying color, whether it is enamel or .iapan colors, except as mentioned hereafter. 77-/AT J(APP/’IYS £VE~ TIIV/£ A BLONO WALKS .,~:~ 1t I I ‘ l , ,.. -· ..BYTliE POIVLJ l W• II P<:!~<> –=——e£:::=-,——:- ~~-,_!- 12 If your boat is an old boat, and already has paint on it, you must expect a little unpleasant work to start_ with, na~elf, getting rid of the old pamt. If this 1s not done, you are leavi~g a great deal of unnecessary weight on your boat because, in a Class A boat, for instance, it is easy to add three pounds actual weight in paint by. the me!hod usuallf emp~o_yed~y the unskilled pa1.nter, that 1s, u11s,~11ledm this particular type of work. Secure sufficient pa:nt remover and do the job as per directions on the container; or m:x equal parts benzol and denatured alcohol. The latter is best, since it conJ:ains no wax, which is used in commercial paint removers to increase their speed- of operation and also to hold the remover in an active state for a longer pcrlod. The reason I advise against th:s commercial remover is obvious: a certain amount cf wax will stay in the wood 1 and even a good turpentine \,·ash docs not remo-,e it all, and no paint will penetrate wax and penetration is the secret of successful adhesion or sticklng qual:ty of paint. That is why painting on glass has only a short lasting period as compared to wood. After the old pa!nt has been removed, be sure to wash your boat thoroughly with a stiff hand brush and gasoline that is frte from oil. Better buy your gas chemically pure from a druggist, or strain it through drugg:sts’ filter paper. This may seem nonstnsical to you but I assur<; you you will be well rep~id for the trouble. Let your boat dry overnight: This will give the nap of the wood a chance to Ile down again, as the wetting raises a noticeable fuzzy nn p on soft woods. ,:ve are now at the stage of practically a newly constructed hull, and the fo:lowing applies to those who have just completed a new boat. Secure some sandpaper in the follow:ng numbers and quantity: 6' sheets of No. 1 (never use coarser than this except for removing chisel marks from carved models, when No. 3 can be used) ; 12 sheets of 2/0 ( commonly called double aught) 12 sheets of No. 320 wet and dry; and 12 sheets of No. 400 wet and dry. Also get ten cents' worth of pulverized rotten stone for your final rub before waxing. Before you do any further work, you should secure white lead for the part of your 9oat that is to be painted. (I will tell you of bright finishes after I qave told· you of painting.) For an A or B Class boat, take 5 lbs. of pure white lead. Personally, I prefer Dutch Boy or any other that is made by the old Dutch method. This fact is generally stated on the labels. We are going to "draw" our lead, and this is how and why. Add turpentine and mix thoroughly to a heavy cream, then set it aside overnight; next day you will see a film of oil on the top. This oil is what we want to remove, so by tilting the can slowly :We pour off the oil. Mix with turpentine again until it is like light cream and let stand till the next day, when we again pour off the surface oil, and our white lead is ready for use, since we have removed the oil we don't need and retained only that amount of oit necessary for penetration and building, and we thin only with turpentine to a thin consistency. Strain it through chc<>secloth of close weave every time it i3 used. This removes the skins and rebreaks the pigment. Let us now go back to our sandpaper. Sanding is not a laborious job if properly clone. I have seen hundreds of men sweat themselves lean sandpapering. Very little pressure is required to make the ground glass on the paper do its work. When you use great pressure you not only tear the wood fibres, but you also tear the sharp glass from the paper and fill the remaining glass with pulp ( or paint where the surface has been painted). Take your No. I sandpaper and rub back and forth lightly, that is, with just a sl!ght pressure of the hand; never use a circular motion, and, wherever possible~ use the rubber sanding block which costs $1.00, or cover blocks of wood,· made to shape, with old flat rubber. When all the deep ridges are removed from the wood and it looks and feels smooth to the touch, repeat the process with the 2/0 sandpaper until the entire surface is smooth as silk. This is necessary to secure a good finish with very little labor. It is necessary to keep the hands spotlessly clean when handling work that is to be finished clear, that is, varnished over the wood. \Ve are now ready to paint. our boat. The best investment we can make at this time is a l ½-inch camel-hair brush (flat) at a cost of from $1.50 to $2.50. This brush, if properly cared for, will last for years, and can be bought by a group of men w_hohave no further need for it than ‘painting one or two ~odels: The care of the brush is simple. After using each time, wash thoroughly in gasoline, dry off 13 ’ with a rag, and grease -with” vaseline. In painting, use the thin drawn white lead for each coat, applying with the camelhair brush. Do not expect to see a white boat after the first or even the fourth coat of paint. Allow 36 hours at least for the drying of each coat, and when each coat dries, sandpaper lightly with 2/0 sandpaper until the surface feels glassy to the touch. If you want to waterproof your boat before painting, use Casco glue, mixed thin, and apply two coats, inside and out, befor’e any paint has been applied. This gives you a hard surface that is impervious to water, and is painted on with a cheap bristle brush. Four hours are allowed between the first and second coats of glue, and eight hours between the second coat of glue and the first coat of paint. After the fourth coat of pa:nt 1h~re should be enough of the paint sanded off to show the wood in only a few high po:nts, such as at the stem,· or transom edges. It_ is then we must use extreme care in handling, both with paint iind sandpaper. Apply three more coats .of leacl as before, but allowing 48 hours at least between coats and sandpapering, and sandpapering with the No. 320 wet and dry, using a wet sponge_ in one hand and the’ sandpaper in the· other, keeping the surface wet while sanding and immediately drying off with chamois when a portion is completed. Remember at all times that hard rubbing will ruin your job, while gentle massaging will give you a beautiful glass-:-like surf ace that will remove all brush marks. We are now ready for our waterline arid underbody finish. If it is to be light colored. underbody such as gray, light green, etc,, se:. cure colors in oil much darker than you want and mix them with clear turpentine, to which add not more than ten drops of japan dryer. This for about one-eighth pint of thin color. Pour this color into your drawn white lead m1til you have secured the tone desired, and proceed as for the whfte part of your boat. Where the entire boat is to be painted dark color, do the entire job except’ the last two coats as just mentioned, when you can use a good four-hour enamel, diluted with turpentine, for your actual coloring. (TO BE QONTINUED) •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• MARI.NE MODEL COMPANY Ready soon-a complete kit. including molded hull and all fittings. This is a quality product you will want to own. Send us your name and address for liter_ature when ready, * * * MARINE MODEL CO.,Inc-. HA~ESITE, L I., NEW YORK ···~···················································································· 14 otlelYachtSailorsWant A Pondto SailinBrooklyn What Brooklyn needs, says Charles E. Wanker of Bay Ridge, is a model yacht pond. Wanker, now 55, has been building and sailing the small cr~ft since he was a boy and deplores the fact that kids today have no spot in Brooklyn, so far as he knows, where they can safely learn the sport. “Our club,” says Wanker, who is S , – . . · t r -treasurer of the Prospect ,bank~ watchm~ th~ kids sail boa.ts. seci e a Y • But it. was filled m.” Park Model Yacht Club and before Charles Lucke, of 658 68th St., that belonged to Brooklyn and Club Commodore 1 is another model ~meric~n Yacht Clubs, is not as yacht :fan who’d like to see a sailb, 7, as 1,t should b~. . . . . ing pond in Brooklyn, “Where the Thats because. 1~ is impossible young children would have a bank !or young boys to sail model yachts where they can sit and sail a boat 10 .Prospect Park Lake. The lake across. England is far ahead of us is 25 _feet deep. They’d have to in pond· sailing-. It has many use ~k1ffs to follow the model yachts courses 1000 feet long and 250 and it would ~e dangerous for them. feet wide.” We w~:>Uldhke to get the youngTHe Prospect Model Yacht Club sters 1n the club, bt~t we have no ; is 25 years old. It carries on the. pl~,ce for, them to sail a boat. i traditions ~f one of Brooklyn’s Theres an awful lot of boys oldest sports. It is the sucessor who like to build and sail boats, “· in the park to the Brooklyn Model but when they get them built, Yacht Club which sailed its little whern are they going·to sail them?” boat~ there for 25 years. Even Shallow Pond N d d earlier, the American Model Yacht ee e • Club sailed the lake until it moved . What’s needed, Wanker figures,/: to Gowanes Bay for open water. 1s .~ pond 1:ot over. two feet deep. I Old Water Dogs. If the kids fall m, they can a-et ,. up and walk,” said Wanker, .;’ho Most of its members ~re, aclives at 666 59th St. “Up to 10 cording to Earnest M. Garbe, viceyears ago, there used to be such commodore, of 531 Third St., “well a pond in Sunset Park. It was advanced in years.” The younger ideal for little kids to sail boats. 1 members, many of them sons of On Sundays it would be crowded : older members, are away in miliwith people sitting around on the . ; tary service. I 15