Marine Models: Volume 8, Number 9 – December 1935

INCORPORATING Vol. VIII, No. 9 THE MODEL Published on the Seventh of each Month YACHTSMAN December, 1935 EDITORIAL HE General Election being over, we fe settle down to business again. Of course the two great parties are not Conservative and Labour, but those who are Marine Modellers and those who are not. We very much fear that in the new Parliament Marine Modellers are in a minority, but it would be of interest to know how many of our legislators are actually interested in our hobby. In our own borough there were three candidates, but none of them was a Marine Modeller. This was most distressing, ‘and one hardly knew which to vote for under -the circumstances! Politicians have been described as confidence tricksters who find it more profitable to make the laws than to break them. Be this as it may, we are firmly of opinion that a man who has no hobby is abnormal, and that all men are better for taking part in a pastime, such as model yachting, model power boating, or model shipbuilding. By the time these lines appear in print the festive season will be approaching, so we take this opportunity to wish all our readers a happy Christmas. During the past months the Council of the Model Yachting Association has been hard at work on the revised code of Sailing Rules. After approval by the Association in General Meeting this will come into force. We have had the opportunity of seeing this code and think model yachtsmen will find it a great improvement on previous rules. The Model Power Boat Association can also look back with satisfaction on the past sea- son. Many new clubs have joined che Asso- ciation, and with this accession of strength it becomes really representative. There have, however, been too many variations in the regulations for the racing classes in the past, and we hope to see these finally settled once and for all before next season opens. It is an interesting fact that many of the ship modelling societies are turning to model yachting as a summer recreation. Ship modelling is an absorbing hobby, but it does not provide any open-air exercise. Model yachting is the natural complement to ship model building, and the two provide an all-the-yearround pastime. So if ship modellers are taking up model yachting as a summer sport, we shall not be surprised to hear that model yachtsmen are taking up ship modelling as a winter hobby. During the past twelve months we have made a number of changes in this Magazine, and believe that MARINE MODELS is now better than ever before. Our methods of distribution have also been improved, but we are still anxious to increase our circle of readers. If any readers will send us the names of friends likely to be interested (whether in this country or overseas) we will be pleased to send a sample copy gratis. 238 MARINE HOW TO MAKE STEAMER MODELS MODEL SHIP AND FITTINGS By A. P. ISARD, A.M.I.Mech.E. (Continued from page 214.) NOTHER uncommon _between-decks fitting is depicted in Fig. 118: Crank Irons. These are heavy staples sometimes driven into the under-side of the deck beams, or carried through and secured by nuts. They are used for the purpose of stowing timber, and probably are a fitting the model maker will not bother with, but if the prototype is so fitted the model will certainly be enhanced by their addition, which will indicate the builder’s accuracy for detail. order to “ abandon ship.” All apparatus must, therefore, be in perfect condition and controlled by perfect discipline to ensure success. What is known as the “time factor” is of first importance, and the stages of operation may be summed up as follows: (1) The instantaneous and automatic recording of trouble and its origin to the bridge; (2) operation of mechanical apparatus for immediate isolation; (3) strict discipline and training of the crew for the safety of the ship and control of passengers. After the dreaded order “ prepare to aban- don ship” has been given, on and other movable floating objects are thrown overboard. This is followed by the loading of the boats and their lowering into the water. FIGS. The Great War caused big strides and advancement in life-saving apparatus, and one point is specially worth mentioning. It has been found that a great saving of time can be effected by the careful positioning of all apparatus with which the ship is equipped, such as lifeboats, rafts, buoys, etc. The closer the particular apparatus is to its working position the more effective it becomes, as time is the all-important factor. As mentioned previously, we are only engaged in constructing models, but it will be found to be of assistance to remember the reason for the position and the functioning of the full-sized apparatus. It will be understood that the precautions for life-saving at sea on a passenger vessel must be so organised that at least 1,000 souls can be transferred to boats or rafts within half an hour of the alarm followed by the Rafts should have a buoyancy of 32 lb. for each person they have to support. They should have a painter of sufficient length so that they can be attached to either the ship herself or her boats. It has also been found that the best shape is rectangular. A convenient method of stowing rafts is in compact blocks at the corners of the boat deck, and similar positions where they cannot foul other life-saving apparatus. As previously mentioned, rafts must be robust enough to allow them to be thrown from the deck without possibility of damage, and, in addition, their weight must be within the limits of man-handling power. Fig. 119 represents a Perry (formerly Gradwell) raft, carried by most foreign and hometrade passenger vessels. Buoyancy is obtained by watertight air tanks, made of copper or Muntz metal, 18 oz. to the superficial foot and painted both inside and outside with a non-corrosive paint. These tanks are stayed internally and enclosed by cross timbers in the shape of slats, the ends of which project beyond the air tanks. These rafts can be easily stowed away in stacks, as shown in Fig. 120, in which five are so stacked, and, to prevent movement, brass studs, coinciding with brass holed MARINE MODELS 239 SAGAS SSAGBQSAAAZAEES es 4 aSa ie, a ee ee AG RDNOS OMe a =~ ee _~~—Z ——-.= | a ee DAD A ea ee WG” —_ —_ —t- a eee “A 4AS## ESS RSEBbRS B42 = 4ZREGVSERUAMSTIDAS LL FIG.t20. FIG. 114. plates, are fixed. These fit together in such a manner as to allow plenty of air space between the two sections. All round each raft life-lines with floating handgrips are attached firmly through holes, the rope being laced strongly to prevent any possibility of undue movement. A long painter is fixed to a staple at the end of one of the cross timbers, and the completed raft is subjected to a drop test of 60ft. to 65ft. These rafts are made in numerous sizes to suit a varying number of persons. A raft measuring 6ft. x 3ft. x 94in. would be suitable for 18 persons and weigh about 14 cwts.; for 16 persons, 4ft. 6in. x 4ft. x 8in., weighing about | cwt.; for 14 persons, 4ft. x 3ft. x 94in., weighing about 7 cwt.; for 10 persons, 4ft. 6in. x 2ft. 54in. x 9in., weighing about 3 cwt.; and for 9 persons, 4ft. 6in. x 2ft. 2in. x 8in., weighing about # cwt. A useful size is 6ft. x 4ft. x 8in., certified by the B.O.T. for 20 persons. When six of these sized rafts are stacked together, their total height is only 4ft., and they are capable of supporting 120 persons when afloat. Twelve similar sections would be about 8ft. high and occupy only 24 su. ft. of deck space. The top section may be fitted with closely fitting slats or timbers, as shown in Fig. 119, to prevent foreign matter fouling the rafts underneath, while the lower rafts may be of the spaced variety. It should be noted that there are several air tanks to each raft. These are kept in position by fillets placed in such a manner that each tank is securely fixed and cannot move. Should a few tanks become punctured the buoyancy of the raft will be impaired onl to the extent and number of tanks dearth Fig. 121 shows a double buoyant deck seat made upon the same principle, and used on many passenger vessels of all sorts. This consists actually of two standard rafts, the to one being fitted with a curved slat doubledeck seat, as shown. These deck seats are fitted together with brass studs and holed plates, as previously described, so that they can be separated. In the drawing the seat has been pushed along longitudinally to show this clearly. Their construction is exactly the same as for plain rafts, that is, a number of buoyancy tanks strapped together with slats or timbers properly spaced, but with the difference that the seats themselves are usually made from FIG. (21. 240 MARINE MODELS hardwood such as teak, whereas the rafts are mostly pitch pine, although the top and bottom boards, battens and fillets may be of whitewood and painted. If his scale is large enough, the model maker could make these fittings correctly, but should make only one tank for simplicity. The slats should all be pinned and glued with a waterproof glue; mahogany is recommended throughout, finished off by varnishing all with beads or turned handgrips, to form the life-line. The deck seat may also be carved from the solid, and, if carefully made, will prove a very pretty fitting, but the result cannot equal a properly built-up seat. over. We are informed by Mr. L. J. French that he will supply gratis a photographic postcard to any reader whose boat is reproduced in any of Mr. French’s photographs appearing in this Magazine. Application should be made to Mr. L. J. French, c/o MARINE MODELS Offices, accompanied by 13d. stamp for postage. All timber, slats, battens, etc., must first be cut to length roughly. Then make the tank and build the woodwork around it, gluing and binding up with string until set hard. Cut off the string and dress off the projecting ends of the slats with a very sharp knife, and smooth off with fine glasspaper. To make the slats, calculate the total length required, cut out and plane long strips up to shape and dimensions. Cut these up as required, For small-scale models, a good representa- tion of these rafts can be easily carved from a single piece of wood, of course, omitting the tanks. Fix suitable size fishing line round (To be continued.) TO MODEL POWER-BOAT READERS LONDON LEAGUE In the report of the League’s Championship Cup Race the name of the winner’s 10-rater was incorrectly given as “ Jess.’ ‘* Jess’’ was Mr. G. W. Reason’s last boat. His present yacht is from our ‘* Flying Spray ’’ design, and is called ‘* Marina.”’ ** Marina ’’ has had a very good season and been placed in many of the most important inter-club events in London, besides gaining the Clapham M.Y.C. Club ** Flag.”’ Photo: L. ]. French THE MODEL TUG ‘‘ DANUBE II” (VICTORIA M.S.C.) MARINE MODELS SHIPS’ BOATS 241 By G. W. MUNRO (Continued from page 223.) T HE design that I am giving this month . is taken from Steel’s Draughts (1804), and is of a 28ft. pinnace. It is a little shorter than the one which was given last month. It has also got more detail, showing the general lay-out of the boat in the way of thwarts and mast-holes, etc. _ Like the previous design, the sections are made up from one template with a given radius. This is how the lines were set up: The over-all length was marked off between perpendiculars, then the beam was treated in a similar way with the depth marked off at 3ft. The sheer line of the gunwale strake was then drawn in, together with the stem and sternpost. The stem is swept in by means of two arcs. Actually, I ie a curve for this purpose to save time and effort. The water-lines are drawn in at 8in. spacing above the moulded depth and the deadrise is drawn in to meet the lower water-line on each side. The arc which forms the turn of the bilge has its radius taken from the distance from the centre-line to where the water-line cuts the deadrise. With this given measurement as a radius, an arc is swept in to blend with both the deadrise and the moulded beam. Eighteen inches above the lower water-line the position of the first diagonal is fixed, and this is drawn in to meet the water-line where the deadrise also cuts it. The second diagonal is set up parallel to the first and is exactly 18in. above it. Now, with the radius given above and the position of the upper end of each section— spotted from the sheer-line and the moulded outline of the gunwale, taken from the waterline plan—an arc for each section is swept in. I cannot say for certain, as the original drawing of this boat is rather small, but I rather fancy that the centres of these arcs are located on the circumference of a circle with a similar radius. However, this is a minor point and may be verified when setting out a design to a larger scale. Having swept in the arcs, it is now necessary to fair them up by means of a curve drawn on the waterline plan. This is very normal in every way, and need not be repeated here. The upper waterline may next be drawn in, as the greater part of it is contained in the arcs mentioned above. The ends may be tentatively drawn in and faired up later with the first diagonal. Here again, the rising-line may have been swept in in the manner mentioned some time ago, and be in the form of versed sines and a trocoidal curve. If so, it will be so much easier to blend the rise of floors with the arcs swept in above. It should be noted that the lower portions of the sections are made up of tangents or reversed curves, or both—one radius only being used throughout. I think that the foregoing should give the reader a very fair idea of how to set up the design for a ship’s boat at the end of the eighteenth century, and with the given dimensions of length, beam, deadrise and depth, a fairly authentic model might be made of any class of boat carried by a merchantman or a man-o’-war. The next item to deal with is the building or scantlings. The keel has a depth of 5in. below the rabbet and is 4in. thick. The gunwale is 6in. deep throughout its length. There are seven thwarts, two of them having mast holes at the centre-line. The width of these thwarts is 8in., and they are lin. thick. Those having mast holes are a little thicker and are Qin. wide. The benches at the after-end are of normal shape and design, and are not shown in the plan view. However, it may be possible to show a general idea of these at a later date. ~ It will be noticed that, unlike the previous designs, this boat has thole pins on the gunwale, and not holes cut in the wash-boards. The thole pins are supported by fancy stiffeners along the gunwale. There are also weather-boards in way of the stern benches. The ends of these have some fancy moulding carved on them. To lift the boat out of the water there is a pair of ringbolts fastened through the keel. Though dotted, they may be seen in the profile view. There is another ringbolt in the after-side of the stem. This is to attach the painter and for general mooring purposes. (Continued at foot of page 243.) o”, waeS MARINE -~ S, = aed dewnr- esarnio nesbeoa ao c aeiSe,aSOB. —soernaer aRSe So 242 MODELS b*VFADLON8Il7d N*”OMAUVDdG MARINE MODELS 243 + a = Dy J. A | LTHOUGH ines (Continued from page 217. some model makers are skilled craftsmen, many have had no training whatsoever in the use of tools. The present article is addressed to the latter as, with a little practical instruction, work can be lightened, difficulties overcome, and better results attained. Again, the circumstances under which model makers indulge their hobby vary immensely. Some have the advantages of a commodious workshop and an elaborate toolkit, whilst others must, perforce, be content with a corner of the kitchen table and a few hand-tools stowed away in an old box. The worker who starts in a humble way, and under difficulties, must obviously be keen, and so he will, unconsciously, improve in his work, especially if he is put in the right wa of doing things. At the same time he will gradually add to his outfit of tools, and each new acquisition will bring him pleasure. Thus one day the humble beginner may find himself a fully-fledged craftsman whose work will stand examination and comparison with the best productions of highly-trained mechanics. Whilst this may seem ambitious, it is by no means a rare occurrence, and many men who SHIPS’ BOATS (Continued from page 241.) There is a similar one bolted to the fore-side of the sternpost. The size of the stern locker and position of the back rest at the after-end of the stern sheets can also be seen in the profile view. It will be seen from a glance at the general arrangement of the boat that she is designed and equipped to be a very useful ship’s boat, able to carry a large number of men and with plenty of room for the junior officers at the stern sheets or on the benches. (To be continued.) i ) have acquired skill in this way have eventually been able to turn it to good account. The first essential is some means of holding the work firm and steady. This, of course, means a vyce. Whether this is large or small, it should be of reasonably good quality, and should be fastened securely to a rigid bench or table. If a comparatively light table has to be used the vyce can with advantage be situated at the corner, over the leg, as this is the firmest position. Very often good tools can be picked up second-hand, and the worker who has a little time to spare poking about junk shops and barrows can probably save half the cost of his kit. The essentials of a good vyce are welltempered jaws, and well-fitting slides and screw. If the jaws are soft they soon get rounded and cease to fit properly, and if the slides and screw are sloppy they permit the work to shift, and make it difficult to set in the exact position required. A good vyce is not a cheap tool, but it is better to have a smaller size of good quality than a larger one of dubious make. The height at which the vyce is set makes a difference to the comfort of the worker. For very heavy filing the vyce should be rather lower than for lighter work. Where the work simply consists of light assembly work, it can be pretty high to avoid unnecessary stooping, which is tiring. If the model maker is fitting up a workshop, whether in the house or a garden shed, he can make the height of his bench to suit himself, and a good all-round height for the model maker’s vyce is with the jaws level with the elbow. An inch or two one way or the other is of no great importance, however, and the worker must place the vyce to suit himself. I mentioned garden sheds above, and so I trust the reader will pardon a slight digression eS a a a er er 244 MARINE at this point. A garden shed can make an ideal workshop, or the reverse. The main essential is that it shall be dry and have a good floor. In any case tools kept in a garden shed are liable to rust rapidly unless they are well greased. Some sort of heating appliance is most desirable, and if electric light is laid on the worker is very lucky. The main cause of rust in tools in condensation, which results from variation of temperature, and to combat this some form of heating is most desirable. In any case, the worker should avoid leaving his tools in a damp place. For oiling tools a small spray, charged with a mixture of oil and petrol, saves time, and is far handier than an oily rag. There is a little cheap spray sold for florists’ use, called the “* Mysto,” which fits into a bottle neck. It is primarily intended for spraying insecticide in greenhouses, but can readily be adapted for our purposes. If the worker finds the glass bottle a nuisance he can easily make a metal container. The object of using a mixture of oil and petrol, by the way, is that the petrol makes the mixture run all over the tools and then dries off leaving an oil film. Now to get back to our vyce and its use. The jaws of a vyce, being hardened steel with serrations to grip the work, are prone to mark the metal, and it is necessary to use clams to protect any work that is highly finished. Clams are made of various metals, but the most usual, and probably the most useful, are sheet lead. Cut two suitable oblongs of sheet lead and bend over the jaws. It is a good plan when making the clams to put a piece of bar steel between the jaws and screw up on this before tapping the sheet lead over the jaws. As the lead will stretch, any little projections can be bent round the ends of the jaws and will hold the clams so that they stay put when the jaws are opened. If lead is too soft (e.g., for holding a screw) a little harder clam will be required, and for this aluminium or copper is suitable. For some jobs a very small vyce is desirable, and, in order to avoid the expense of a second vyce the following little tip will be of service : Where very small work has to be handled, two small pieces of very heavy angle brass can be placed in the jaws of the big vyce so as in effect to form a small vyce. They can – be set in any position desired and used to hold delicate work. These are practically another form of clam. Any odd bit of angle stuff can be used to MODELS – make clams, and is highly suitable, as the angle is nice and sharp instead of being rounded, as is likely if the clams are bent up from sheet. One thing that the model maker should study is to do his work under the most favourable and comfortable conditions possible. A good light is most essential not only to do good work but to avoid straining the eyes. Light should be arranged to shine on the work and not in the worker’s eyes. This means a shaded light and preferably one that can be moved to any suitable position. A wandering lead can be made up easily enough, and everything required to rig one up can be got at Woolworth’s for about Is. 6d., but the worker can elaborate lighting arrangements to suit himself, and all I wish to do here is to draw attention to the necessity of good lighting. Work should never be carried on when the builder is overtired. Not only will the work deteriorate but the benefit which should be gained from a pleasant hobby is lost. Model making is not piecework. It is craftsmanship, and as such the worker should take his time over it, gaining enjoyment and benefit from doing each job to the best of his ability— thus progress will be made and the worker will improve his skill and knowledge. When we come to cutting metal the most usual tool is the hacksaw. There is a number of patterns on the market but the main essential is a good stiff frame. An adjustable frame is, however, preferable, as it enables different lengths of saw to be used. Sawblades are obtainable in a number of qualities, but it is false economy to buy inferior ones. Low quality blades go dull quickly and, therefore, give poor service and make the work laborious. The best are cheapest as they give so much more wear and facilitate good work. I have found the highspeed blades made by the Eclipse Company really excellent and, though expensive, they are well worth their cost. Blades are made in three grades—coarse, medium and fine. The coarse are used for heavier work, and the fine for thin sheet brass and similar materials. The saw cuts away from you and, therefore, the pressure should be on the cutting stroke, and the saw allowed to ride back lightly on the return stroke. On most metals the saw cuts better if it is lubricated, excepting castiron and most brasses. For this purpose a lump of tallow is as good as anything. The saw should be used with slow, steady strokes the full length of the blade. Actually the saw should not tilt at the ends of the strokes. To use a nautical metaphor, it must run on an even keel without pitching. The work should be arranged so that the sawcut is as near as possible to the vyce without touching it. This avoids whip in, the work and helps the worker to make a good, clean cut. Whatever the job there is sure to be a good deal of filing and I am not sure that the file is not the most important tool the metal-. worker possesses. It is certainly the one which is most often used badly. In many respects the instructions given for using a hacksaw apply with even more force to the file. The tool cuts away from the worker, and the pressure must be applied on the outward stroke, and the file allowed to ride back lightly. Similarly the file must be used dead flat and not allowed to pitch. Slow strokes should be taken and attention given to keeping the file level. It is surprising how difficult this is until one has acquired the knack. A first-class metal-worker takes a pride in filing his work up with really sharp, square edges, and the beginner should aim at this. It is harder to file flat on a narrow edge than on a wider one. A set square can be used to MODELS 245 test the worker’s progress in this respect, and it is surprising what this will reveal. Some people are gifted with a better eye than others, but anyone can improve in this respect by practice. Files are made in various shapes and sizes. The most common shapes are the flat, halfround and the round, though there are a number of other varieties. | Probably the most useful of all is the flat with a safe edge, but these three varieties must be in every tool-kit. The size of file depends on the work, but a 10in. will be big enough for most model work. There are about half a dozen grades of file, from very coarse to very fine, but the model maker requires mostly medium to fine. For very small, fine work the little watchmaker’s Swiss files are most useful. Dreadnought files are most useful things and though they are decidedly expensive are a good investment. A useful variety has coarser teeth one side than the other. The coarser side can be kept for heavy work, iron, etc., and the fine side reserved for brass. This brings me to a point which I must mention. A new file should not be used on iron or steel but reserved for brass. When it gets a little old it can be used for iron, and, finally, for steel. Steel takes the edge from ; ; ; | ; { – _ MARINE F Photo: L. ]. French ANOTHER VIEW OF MODEL TUG ‘** DANUBE II”’ (VICTORIA M.S.C.) 246 MARINE a file, and if put on brass after steel it will not cut properly. For lead, solder, and other soft metals, a Dreadnought is useful, as it does not clog. In filing it is best to start with a coarser file and finish with a fine one. If emery cloth is used to finish off, the work should be carried as far as possible with the fine file, as emery cloth always tends to round off edges. Files are made single and double cut, but the single cut are mainly used for special purposes, and the double cut are more useful for all-round work. Although the beginner may start with only one or two files, he is certain to add to his collection rapidly until he has a suitable one for almost every purpose. When filing very soft metals it will minimise clogging if the file is rubbed with a piece of chalk. Files can be cleaned to a certain extent with a piece of file card, which should be tacked and glued to a piece of wood of suitable shape. Whena file is badly clogged, take a piece of soft brass rod and flatten the end out. This is run across the file in the direction of the cut and soon takes ridges that fit the grooves. A file can be cleaned with this in a very short time. All files should be suitably handled, and the worker should select handles to suit his hand. A drill is, of course, an essential tool, and the beginner will probably buy a hand-drill taking drills up to about lin. It is worth while buying a good drill, as the chucks and gearing on inferior ones soon give out. The important thing about a drill is that the jaws of the chuck hold the drill firmly and dead true. A hole is started by making a “* pop” with a centre-punch. The drill requires lubrication on most metals, excepting brass and castiron. If two light lines are scribed at right angles, with the position for the hole at the intersection, it will be a guide to see whether the drill is inclined to wander from the position before the hole is opened out to its full circumference. Generally speaking, holes will have to be drilled vertically, though there are exceptions, of course. Care must be taken to hold the drill absolutely steady, and it will help the beginner to get it vertical if he lines the tool up with a line on the wall or any other suitable thing. Possibly the edge of the work itself will serve, but a second objective at right angles can also be taken. Directly a drill gets blunt it should be ground, MODELS but this requires a little grinder of some sort. If this is of the dry grinder type great care is required not to overheat the drill. The important thing in grinding a drill is to get the two sides even, so that the point is in the centre of the drill. Otherwise the drill will not run true. The relief is also important. In case this term is strange to any reader may I explain that this is the angle at which the drill point is ground. Neither the exact angle of the point nor that of the relief is all-important. The essentials are that the – point must be central and the relief sufficient. I will resume this subject next month, and now turn to another topic. Last month | referred to the possibilities of tug and trawler models, and in the present issue the Editor of MaRINE MODELS is including some photos of “Danube II,” one of the finest working models of a tug I have ever seen. Trawlers are usually bigger than drifters, and work farther off shore. The trawler tows her nets, while the drifter lies hove to with her nets ahead of her. This results in certain differences in the deck fittings, such as gallows, etc. As she lies hove to, head to her nets, the drifter has high bows and a well-cut-away forefoot. The usual speed of either a drifter or trawler is 10 to 11 knots, but the fish cutters, which bring the fish to market, have speeds of 12 knots or more. The big Iceland trawlers are magnificent vessels, and capable of standing any weather. They go long voyages and can keep the seas for long periods, if necessary. Most of the new drifters to-day are Diesel or semi-Diesel engines, and there is a tendency to come more to the double-ended Fifie types. These boats are smaller than the older drifters, and work with a smaller crew, but magnificent seaboats all the same. Before closing this month’s instalment, | would like to suggest to the owners of model tugs that it would add to the interest of their models if they on occasion gave their craft a job of work to do. By this I imply that it would be of interest to build a tow for their tugs. This could take a number of different forms, the simplest of which would be a string of dumb lighters loaded with coal, but if this is done care should be taken to ballast the lighters so that they look loaded, even if the coal is merely a few knobs of coal carried on a false deck. (To be continued.) MARINE A MODELS MODEL | 247 TUG OVERDRIVEN Photo: L. J. French These two photographs were specially taken for MARINE MODELS to show how the effect of a prototype model is spoilt when she is driven above the normal scale speed. wave-throw is correct to this type of hull, but in In the upper photo the the second the appearance is entirely marred. 0p « 248 MARINE MODELS PETROL ENGINE and HYDROPLANE TOPICS By J. B. INNOCENT (Continued from page 219.) HE practical side of pattern-making entails turning wood in the lathe, and here the secret of success is speed. It is as well to ease the head bearings out a bit, and then run your lathe as fast as possible, but you will be very lucky if you can reach optimum speed for the smaller diameters without introducing special gearing. Owing to this lack of speed the wood will tend to tear, but this tendency can be checked by taking a number of light cuts to get down to finished size after stoning up the tool to a perfect edge, for the roughing out will have dulled it a trifle. If slide-rest tools are used they must have plenty of top and side rake, but need not have more than is usual for turning aluminium. The tools must have their edges stoned after grinding, as the ground edge is not sufficiently smooth or sharp. It is more usual to turn wood by means of hand tools, and a gouge or chisel, supported against a bar set in the slide-rest, will be found very useful for roughing out. The chisel should be held with the ground side down, and at an angle that provides both top and side rake. An outside gouge works better than a chisel, but it is scarcely worth buying one unless you intend to do an enormous amount of pattern work. If you try hand turning, don’t be too greedy, as it is very easy to dig in, with somewhat painful results, Before the wood is removed from the lathe it should be sanded down to a solid face, and at this time it must be checked for roundness, as it is apt to turn oval. This oval finish is due to tearing where the grain changes, and is particularly noticeable with soft wood such as pine, but is almost absent with mahogany and beech. Take care that too much sanding is not required by getting a decent finish with the tool as the sand- paper will not cut evenly over the grain changes. Now for the methods of building up a few patterns. Firstly, we will take the head, as, even if you build a motor from commercial parts, you will probably want to try an angle valve head. Whilst on this matter of standard engines with alternative heads, I have to inform you that an optional head is to be marketed for the “Ken” 15 c.c. engine. This head is, I understand, to be in aluminium with bronze seats and with the valves set at 60°, and as the finning is also to be increased it should make this useful design really attractive. | shall probably have some more to say about this later. The first part of a head pattern to make is the knob, which represents the top wall of the combustion chamber. Turn it out of a piece of mahogany to the dimensions shown on your drawing, plus the machining allowance on the bottom face. Next, carve out the main base fin to fit over the knob in the right position. Make it fairly thick, as it feeds heat to the rest of the fins, but taper it off to the edges with a rasp and sandpaper if the rest of the fins are to be ae If one lateral fin is required the pattern must be made so that it can be moulded on edge and with the parts in line, and the moulder won’t be too pleased; in fact, I think it better to leave the lateral fins to be cast solid and then milled out after. Having got the knob and base fin stuck together, carve out blocks for the ports, plug seat and valve guide bosses, and carefully glue the bits on to the first part after having slightly roughened the joint faces. At this stage one or two gaps will show unless the carving has been done with very great care; these gaps should be filled with plastic wood, and any corners should be filleted with the same material. Now turn up some round pieces for the bolting lugs and rocker gear supports, and fix them in place. To get these bits on it is a good idea to drill them whilst in the lathe, then drill holes in the pattern, and glue and peg the bits together with thick wire or bits of nail, but don’t make the pegs too long. Next cut out the fins from plywood with the outside grain running across the head. Taper them with a coarse file and sandpaper hut take care not to pull slips out of the grain, as it is the wrong way from casting considera- tions. Vou have now arrived at the awkward part, MARINE as your next job is to let the fins into the main block. To do this, I cut gashes down into the block until the base fin is just cut at the edges but sloping upwards, so that the port blocks are left with a complete glue joint, and any gashing of the bolting lugs is taken down to the pins. Considerable care is needed to keep these gashes vertical, and a passablesfit for the fins; furthermore, the remains of “the port blocks are in a rather delicate state until the fins are in place. Glue in the fins after correcting their bottom outline to the gashes and fill any gaps with plastic wood as before. If any considerable amount of filling is required do it in easy stages as plastic wood shrinks as it hardens. The pattern is now complete, but requires finishing. This consists of filleting the angles, smoothing off and painting. To get a good surface on plastic wood put on a bit more than is required and then cut over the surface with a very sharp knife when hard and sandpaper to finish. For paint, I strongly recommend a good cellulose, to which vegetable black has been added as a filler. This finish is much easier to apply than shellac on an intricate pattern, and dries hard with a good surface. If the pattern wants plenty of filling use a good proportion of black in the paint, when you will find the surface can be scraped smooth like a hard wax, but don’t overdo the filler for the last coat or the surface will not be hard enough. For rubbing down during the painting, I use a piece of wood, about half an inch wide, and narrow enough to go between the fins and taper it down on the flat so that it is just strong enough to support the sandpaper. Should you decide that you would sooner make your pattern by carving it from a solid block, do not overlook the weakness of wood when it is cut so that the grain is short; that is, see that the grain runs in line with the fins and not across them. I do not recommend carving from the solid, although the pattern for “ Betty’s ” head was made in this way. If you decide to core out the ports, a core print should be left on the knob when it is turned, but those on the port faces had better be stuck on after with glue and screws. Should the port centre be on either side of the division line, the print may be made Dshaped with the flat on the line when the core end must be the same shape. The core-box may be left open at the end of each print for ramming with sand, but must be made to MODELS 249 drop apart so that the core can be removed. Dowel pegs must be fitted in the jointing face of the box to ensure the joint going together correctly, though external register plates would be better if the jointing face is not straight, owing to the ports being offset. I do not recommend your trying to get the ports cored to finished size, as really accurate coring is a most difficult job. The box must be finished with pattern paint. To depart from the matter of patterns for a bit I notice that a writer in another journal has thought fit to be sarcastic about some of my earlier remarks. | stated that I considered two-strokes best left alone, as they are a positive snare and delusion if not in the hands of a super-expert. My critic desires to know how one becomes an expert if one leaves twostrokes alone. Well, obviously, one cannot become expert if one keeps away from twostrokes, but, so far as I can see, association with them is about as useful if my critic is anything to go by. My own idea is that one requires an unusual outlook for two-stroke work, for they certainly do not yield to the ordinary brand of logic and dedactialy Of course, | admit that the only boats to top forty besides “ Betty” are “ Oigh Alba” and “Nickie,” but despite this I maintain that the average of success is very much in favour of the four-stroke. Further, I admit that the number of two-strokes which have been decently cooled is very few more than the two named, but then no published design has shown more than a suggestion of finning, despite the fact that cooling is of the utmost – importance for this type of engine. In the same article the use of large ports was also queried; well, if you must put a boat on the pole, for goodness’ sake try to go fast. It is true that it is easier to get a small port job to complete the course, but it is a pretty poor outlook to be satisfied with 25%, less speed than the winner. By all means learn to walk first, but don’t spend years over it. Design your motor so that you are not tied to restrictions such as small ports, low valve lifts and dangerous cast-iron flywheels. It is time this last feature of design disappeared, for iron has a safety limit, and it is being consistently ignored. Next year the 15 c.c. people will have to of an American get a move on, for I hear boat, 24in. long, powered with a four-stroke, measuring only lin. by lin., which has gone as fast as our best 15 c.c. MARINE 250 MODELS HOW TO RU(ID)N A MODEL YACHT RACE or MISRULES FOR POND SAILING By COMMODORE O. WaTT ABUTE Never arrive at the pond on time, but always after the race is well under way. This will show that you are a busy man; besides, the race officials will be delighted to throw away all the race cards and make new schedules. Insist upon an extra try-out after everyone else is ready to start. This gives the other 13. skippers a chance for a nap. Pay no attention to the Starter when he calls you. He is no better than you. Keep on fiddling with your rudder, or explaining to someone how you were cheated out of the Club Championship. A small boy makes an attentive audience. 14. Always hog the weather berth when sailing for points; but courteously take the leeward berth if sailing to kill time. This establishes your spirit of self-sacrifice to all. Belittle opponents on every occasion. A good alibi when you are fairly beaten is a poor 15. mate, a fluky wind, a soft spot or a slipping bowser. Always let other boats crash into the stone wall or run aground. Never make haste tacking or trimming any boat but your own. Skippers appreciate your care in taking plenty of time, especially if they are behind in the race. Never keep your own score; then, if it is too low to suit you, you can bawl the Scorer out. This will rattle him, and he will give you 8 or 10 extra points. Scorers are easily confused, and often count on their fingers, but occasionally omit their thumbs. If you collect too many goose eggs, or have a >. 8 UE ee Ee STi Sa SEE, Se SS date, or become bored, or tired, quit any time you like, particularly when two-thirds of a race has been completed. Always yell ‘‘ FOUL ’’ when two boats just graze one another, and continue on with no apparent advantage to you. This gives you another chance to shove your boat twice as far as your opponent on the sail-over. 10. 11. 12. Should you agree to disregard a foul (having first ascertained that it gave you an advantage) but a little later your opponent pulls ahead and eventually wins the race, beating you by half the length of the pond, change your mind and demand a re-sail on the grounds that the other boat could not possibly have been faster. Always refuse to be bullied into towing your boat to the new starting line after having been defeated. This is the time to tune up, even if you foul a racing pair. You have just as much right on the pond as they, anyway. _ If you lose a race, bawl out your mate. This is half the fun. Mates are of two species: (1) Mind-readers; (2) deaf and dumb mutes (mates), the dumber the better. Never treat a mate as an equal, and remember that they i7. 18. NEVER help win a race. How could they, when you know all there is to know about model yacht racing? Never accept an unfavourable decision of a judge or umpire. If several of them concur, this is proof of collusion. Protest loudly, preferably through a megaphone. If a crowd collects, so much the better; this is your chance to tell the world just what you think about judges, umpires and the club in general. This is cheap advertising and helps attract new members who love to fight. It is excellent timing practice, when you are not yourself racing, to set your boat off across the course of a racing pair, to see how close you can come to them without striking them. Collisions amuse onlookers and give them an idea of your good judgment. Always lay your model across the right of way. It is very funny to see clumsy galoots trip over your backstay. They should look where they are going. Ignore all boats but your own. Never praise good workmanship, especially that of new members, as they might get swell-headed. It is better form to spin yarns to gaping strangers, for example, how you planked your boat in one evening, and walloped the club champion with it the next day. Always knock the other fellow’s design. He probably stole it, anyway: perhaps from the very same source as you did, but this is obviously unfair to you, as you stole it first. After the race is over tell the Race Committee how it should have been run. It is a good idea to avoid serving on the Race Committee, as the pleasure you derive in abusing them would no longer be enjoyed. 19. The most important rule is ‘‘ NEVER GIVE 20. Commit these rules to memory; their obsery-ance will keep model yachting just where it is A COMPETITOR A BREAK.’’ Be rough, tough, and nasty, and by the end of the racing season everyone will know just what sort of a fellow you are. to-day. MARINE THE VANE MODELS GEAR AT 251 FLEETWOOD By THE EDITOR Dear Sir,—I take a portion of the letter by Sam. O. Berge, published in MaRINE MopELs of Novem: — ber, 1935, for comment. Quoting from the letter ‘** Everybody wants some training, and once or twice early in the race I had to stop the model two or three seconds while tacking, but when used to it I turned the vane over WITHOUT STOPPING the boat at all,’’ etc. The sailing rules of the International Model Yacht Racing Association state that a model must be stopped whilst retrimming or altering the gear in any way. If I used the Braine steering gear to help my model to windward (and I have done so on rare When the present M.Y.A. Sailing Rules were drafted, practically the only steering gear in use in matches was the Braine, and the Vane gear had yet to make its appearance in open competitions. When using the Vane gear in tacking to windward leg-and-leg, it is necessary to shift the vane across every time the yacht is put about. If this is to be treated as a retrim and the boat stopped, any skipper using a Vane gear to windward will be heavily handicapped in competition with an opponent sailing to windward with fixed rudder. Long before the Fleetwood question was brought before Council, as to whether the use gear in open competitions was Regatta the the M.Y.A. of the Vane to be sanc- tioned. The Council.approved its use, and added a rider that as improvement in steering gears was desirable, experiment should be This, presumably, covered the encouraged. necessary turning of the vane at the end of each tack. In any case the use of the Vane gear created a situation which was not contemplated when the rule was framed, so that the O.0.D. at Fleetwood was confronted with an awkward problem. Either he had to enforce the rule blindly which would have meant the prohi- bition of the use of the Vane gear to wind- ward by Mr. Berge, or he had to appreciate a al ee ——e The O.0.D., Mr. Wm. M. Carpenter, evidently did not take this view and we are inclined to agree with him in this respect. – ** GOSPORT.” ee aoe Op ee: Edition) says, ‘‘ The yacht must be stopped while altering trim.’’ Surely an alteration to the steering adjustment is an “‘ alteration of trim’’’? Yet Mr. Berge says that when he got used to it, he turned the vane of his steering-gear over without stopping the boat at all, whilst tacking. Moreover, it is laid down a few lines earlier in the same rule, that except for the lee bow as the boat comes in, and the lee side of the counter, as she sails out, no other part of the yacht, sails or gear may be touched unless to readjust her trim or to avoid an obstruction (in Windward Boards). Has an alteration to the rule been published without my noticing it, or is this the snag that I always felt was lurking somewhere beneath the surface in the Vane steering gear? Yours faithfully, G. B. LEE (Major). Exeter Golf & Country Club, Countess Weir, Exeter. Yours faithfully, Ee 1935 Nov. 17, 1935. Dear Sir,—I was greatly surprised by a phrase in Mr. Berge’s letter in your November issue. No. 10 of the Sailing Rules of the M.Y.A. (1930 If this operation can be performed without stopping the boat, as per Mr. Berge’s letter, then I must seriously consider fitting the gear in future. ee ee REGATTA, Do I understand that in this respect the Vane steering gear has preferential treatment over other types of steering gear? Readers of MARINE MopeLs will readily understand the loss of time occasioned by stopping a model, and then having to get under way again from a dead standstill. The only objection I can find for using the Vane gear, is when going dead to windward, tack for tack, right across the lake, every time the model comes to the lakeside, the vane has to be put across. ES FLEETWOOD Failing to stop the boat would mean disqualification every time. as regard to Mr. Sam. Berge’s yacht, “Prinz Charming II.” The M.Y.A. Rules distinctly state that in tacking a yacht the lee bow on the inshore tack and the lee quarter on the offshore tack are the only parts of the yacht or gear that must be touched when turning her. Under these rules any adjustment of any kind is deemed a retrim which necessitates stopping the boat. Therefore if the rules are to be interpreted literally, Mr. Berge’s action in flicking his vane over each time the boat was tacked (when sailing leg-and-leg across the pond) was out of order and he should have been disqualified in the International Races. That many model yachtsmen hold these views is shown by the following letters :— occasions), and if an adjustment were necessary, I should be required to stop the vessel to do it. — HE two letters printed below are typical “| of a number we have received with ee ee e! 252 MARINE that the use of the Vane gear (already sanctioned by the M.Y.A. Council) entailed handling in a manner not covered by Rules. Mr. Carpenter (and in our opinion rightly) evidently took the latter view and availed himself of the liberty given an O.O.D. to give a ruling in situations which are not covered under the Rules (see Rule 26, covering ‘Doubts and Silences of Rules ”). As the Sailing Rules are now under revision, we venture to suggest the inclusion of a clause to cover this matter. Whether the Vane gear is really superior to the Braine for general all-round use, is a matter of opinion, but it is certain to be used considerably after Mr. Berge’s success, and everyone will watch the outcome. For use to windward in light weather it appears to be excellent, as Mr. Berge’s yacht kept pointing and sailing all the time. Further, both Mr. Berge and his mate have told us that the Vane gear enabled the yacht to carry her sailplan considerably further aft than would otherwise have been the case, and that her centres were thus disposed like those of a full-scale yacht with the Vane gear acting as efficiently as a skilful helmsman. This in itself must be regarded as a great advance, so that we hope there will be no impediment to the use of this gear on future occasions. WISHBONE BOOMS +i HE full-scale yachts have for some time been ee ee ee experimenting with various forms of ‘*Wishbone ’’ rig, and the wishbone boom, at all events, seems to be very successful. As most of our readers know, the wishbone, either in the form of boom or some kind of sprit, is a double spar, with the two parts curved outward so as to clear the sail and permit it to take its natural flow without interference. During the last few months Mr. Colin MacFadyen, of the Birkenhead M.Y. & P.B.C., has been experimenting with a wishbone boom on an A-class model designed by Mr. A. W. Littlejohn. As in the old Bermuda sail, the tack of the sail extends some distance below the boom, which has the gooseneck some l6in. above the tack. The boom is made of elm, tin. x jin., and the curve is steamed to shape. The gooseneck is brass, and the other fittings aluminium, the whole weighing no more than an ordinary boom. With this arrangement, the sail sets very well. When running, the head of the sail does not sag to leeward, and when beating the boom can be trimmed farther off than a sail set on a normal boom. Mr. MacFadyen has been using a radial boom on the jib (as frequently recommended in these pages), with the fore-end of the boom about 2in. above the deck, and a kicking strap. This arrangement also appears to work admirably. MODELS MASTS AND SPARS FOR MODEL YACHTS E are often asked where the greatest VG thickness of masts should come. Now the greatest strain on a mast comes about half-way up, and therefore the greatest diameter should be at this point. From the heel to the deck there is no sidestrain, but merely the down-thrust of the shrouds and, though this is considerable in the case of an A-class model, it is a compression strain. Many amateurs make their masts too heavy. Provided the mast is reasonably well stayed, the mast of an A-class can be 3in. in diameter at its thickest part. At the deck and about two-thirds of the way up, it will be the same thickness, and taper to 3in. at the heel, and about 4in. at the head. These dimensions apply to a solid wooden mast, and if a nice light piece of pine is chosen the weight will not be more than 10 or I1 ounces. For a hollow mast the dimensions will have to be increased all over by about in., making the mast {in., tapering to about in. and 3in. at heel and head respectively. The weight of a light, wooden, hollow mast will be in the region of 6 to 7 ounces. For a 30in. or 36in. restricted class boat the mast can be about 4in., tapering to Zin. and 5/16in., and other classes in between will be proportionate in size. The thickest part of the boom and jib-club (or footstick) also comes about the middle. For an A-class boom about 4in. will suffice, and for the jib-club Zin. These will taper to about gin. and 5/ 16in. respectively. The after-side of the mast and the top-side of the boom must be straight, and all the taper taken off the other sides. This is, of course, so that the side of the spar next the sail is straight. In spar making a square of wood of the right size and length is planed up, and then the taper of the fore-side is marked (the bottom-side in the case of booms) and planed down. The taper for the sides is then marked and planed. This gives a square of the correct size and taper. The corners are taken off with the plane, making the shape an octagon. Finally, the spar is sanded down to a round shape. In marking and planing up a little margin must be left for the final clans ing, as otherwise the spar will be undersized. | MARINE MODELS 25g. FE i MODEL ve TRAWLER aoe ce T HE sailing trawler is fast giving way to the ubiquitous motor, and the Brixham boats are no exception in this respect. In 1914 there were about 350 of these able vessels in commission. During the war they suffered heavy losses, and on one memorable day no fewer than 11 were sunk by the Germans, and many were lost by striking sunken wreckage. The number now in use is under 30. These boats are ketch rigged, and use the beam trawl. The hull of the model illustrated is not after any particular vessel, but true to type. The sailplans of these vessels vary considerably in size, but those on the model were taken from an actual trawler. For racing, bigger topsails are carried, and a big reaching foresail, which comes well abaft the mast. The model illustrated was built by Mr. J. R. S. Worrall, of ** Cranleigh,’ Gillard Road, Brixham, and is on a scale of 1/6in. to the foot. The hull is 12in. long. The model is planked with three-ply wood 1/32in. thick, glued to shadows, the deck being of the same material. Sycamore was used for the keel, keel members and shadows. No nails were used, but a few glued wooden pegs. Most of the deck fittings were made from cigar-box wood, and the masts and spars from deal. The sails are casement cloth, with the boltropes stuck to the edges with waterproof glue. The only things bought ready-made were the blocks. The deadeyes were cut from orange manicure sticks, glued to a board for drilling, and then soaked off. Coastal sailing vessels and fishing craft are fast disappearing and the recording of their lines and gear is a most important historical work we commend to all our readers. Se = 4+ : f =i pS L eee ~ nS ert A BRIXHAM é 254 MARINE MODELS mite = eseetter eth Bes sb EEkt 2 Ses “mars, MODELLING A CLINKER-BUILT BOAT By C. H. W. HE construction of a clinker-built model to any small scale is usually a rather painstaking business, but the following method simplifies matters considerably, and enables a very realistic model of such craft, as rowing boats, sailing dinghies, or any other open clinker-built craft to be produced with the minimum of labour and in a very short time; in fact, a hull of a rowing boat (scale lin. to a foot) was made in about five hours. The best material to use for planking and ribs is 1 /32in. plywood, as this is easily bent, does not split, and may be cut with a razor or sharp penknife. The first step in the construction, assuming ~ that a plan of some sort is available, and taking for example a 12ft. dinghy, is to make a mould to the shape of the proposed model from a piece of soft pine or deal in the usual manner, shaping slightly undersize, to allow for the thickness of the planking and ribs. The bow end is then cut, as shown in sketch, to accommodate the apron piece, which should be cut from a piece of hardwood, and, after being pinned to the hull with a couple of long panel pins, should be shaped to match the piece cut out. A piece oftin. woodis then screwed to the under-side of the mould, and planed to match. The transom is then cut and screwed to the mould with two small screws; this, again, must be slightly oversize, to allow for the thickness of the ribs, and the edges cut at a slight angle to match the lines of the mould. Having decided on the number of ribs to be used, the position of these is marked on the mould, and a number of strips of 1/32in. plywood, about in. wide, are cut and bent over the mould, and fixed by tin. panel pins to the base piece, as shown. Planking may now be commenced, and this will be found to be considerably simplified if a thin cardboard template be used for each plank. Naturally the corresponding plank each side of the keel will be the same shape, so the two should be cut from the plywood at the same time. The first plank fitted should be twice the size of the others and carefully fitted, as shown in the sketch, and nailed to the transom and apron piece with very small panel pins, after first giving the under-side a coating of glue. Each successive plank is then fitted in the same manner until the hull is completed, and a piece of tape wound round to hold the planks close to the ribs until the glue has set. To remove the hull from the mould, cut off the projecting end of each rib flush with the top plank with a razor blade, remove the two screws from the transom, and the pins from the apron piece. The hull should then slide off the mould easily provided care has been taken that the glue does not get on to the mould. KEEL Tice cnPINNEO TO “BASE —~~——eJ ROUGH SHOWING SKETCH METHOD OF BUILDING CLINKER-BUILT FIRST PLANK ON A A MODEL FORMER MODELS The keel and stem may now be fitted and glued into place, and the internal fittings, such as thwarts, etc., fixed. In conclusion, it may be added that care should be taken FINE MODEL TUG ns A 255 to see that each plank overlaps the one before, ; and that the ends are shaved off so that they fit flush. Painting or varnishing with cellulose lac- ee MARINE nt \ 4 iy quer inside and out will be found to make ra the model quite waterproof, if it is to be a sailing one, though naturally, on account of “i abe its very light weight, ballast will have to be ie used. | Be dd THE SOUTH SCIENCE KENSINGTON, MUSEUM, LONDON, S.W.7 tae7 eae. A_ handbook, dealing with the history and development of Marine Engines, has been prepared by Mr. G. L. Overton, A.R.C.S., formerly Keeper of the Water Transport Collections in the Science Museum, and has been published by H.M. Stationery Office. The book, which is complementary to the Science Museum Catalogue of Marine Engines and Boilers, contains 20 pages of plates which, with one exception, are from photographs of exhibits in the Museum. Sections are devoted to Experimental and Early Steam Propulsion; Paddle Engines; Reciprocating Steam Screw Engines; Marine Steam Turbines; Internal Combustion Engines; Marine Boilers; and Propellers. Copies may be obtained from the Science Museum, price 2s. (by post 2s. 2d.), or from the following sale offices of H.M. Stationery Office : — LONDON, Adastral House, Kingsway, W.C.2. EDINBURGH, 120, George Street. MANCHESTER, York Street. CARDIFF, 1, St. Andrew’s Crescent. BELFAST, 80, Chichester Street. is made for the services of the Guide Lecturers. ** DANUBE II ”’ (Victoria M.S.B.C.) i -in. Ideal Christmas present. 9, Hyde Park Place, W. cal ioe eet vane spinnaker. structor, Matthews £4/0/0 or offer. New ‘6”? METRE YACHT. by Chas. Drown. Screwed Christine McCulloch, Design by ‘‘Littlejohn.”” planks. Mahogany Sails throughout. £19/10/0 ornear offer. Carter, St. Lawrence, Cockethurst Avenue, Southend-on-Sea. a . finish : leave nothing to i be desired, ; and formance under steam is most satisfactory. photographs . of – this fine elsewhere in this issue. little vessel will her per- Further be found ee This beautiful model is an excellent example of a working prototype model. The detail work and UE sig ps me vian et ne FOR SALE 36” RES. L.O.A., also 10 RATER. Excellent workmanship. Nickel-plated fittings, 10 Rater, good record. F. E. Mathews, 59, Artesian Road, Bayswater, W.2. “ae ew Photo: L. J. French oT No charge ie ie ie oe ticulars can be obtained on application. a es The Science Museum is open free on week-days from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and on Sundays from 2.30 to 6 p.m.; it is closed on Good Friday and Christmas Day. Free public lectures are given twice daily by the Guide Lecturers, at 12 noon and 3.0 p.m. (on Saturdays and Bank Holidays at 2.15 and 4.15 p.m.). Arrangements can also be made for special lectures to School and other organised parties. Par- , SR =. 4 es a 5 She ot Rs <.¥ Sees Bek Si tte ee GE duet ES 4 As B a —— 256 MARINE THE INFLUENCE OF DIFFERENT WATERS ON PERFORMANCE ANON. IFFERENT lakes are bound to have a LD great influence on the performance of any model, whether she is a sailing yacht or power driven. Owners are sometimes puzzled when their craft fail to give a satisfactory performance on a strange water, and it is in an endeavour to explain this phenomenon that the present article is written. Salt water is heavier than fresh water, the difference in the specific gravities being as 37 is to 36. In consequence of this a boat floats higher on salt water. Theoretically the owner who is accustomed to sail on fresh water should add inside ballast to his yacht to the extent of 1/36 of her total weight in order to get an equivalent displacement and water-line in salt water. Conversely, the owner who comes from salt to fresh water should reduce the weight of his craft by 1/37th. This applies to any displacement craft, whether yachts or ower driven. How far this would affect a Redindcee I am unable to say definitely, but —s it is quite possible that the greater density of salt water might cause a hydroplane that planed well on fresh water to rise above her stability point on salt, and, conversely, to render one that planed well on salt water to — MODELS have insufficient lift on fresh. If this surmise is correct it would point to either a different plane angle for the same weight or a different weight for the same plane angle being required to get equivalent performance. The larger a water is, the longer will the wave formation be in a heavy wind. This is also affected by the depth and contour of the bottom. A shallow water sets up a short, steep sea that is more trying than a long swell. Any shallow spot will cause a break in the regularity of the seas. Shallow water slows a boat appreciably. The reason is that the water has less room to spread away under the boat when pushed aside by her passage. With a displacement power-driven craft the disturbance, caused not only by the passage of the vessel but her propeller, will also tend to affect the steering, and greater allowance for the torque has to be made. With a hydroplane, shallow water has a slowing effect also. This I believe to be due to there being less water from which to draw the propeller stream, and, consequently, more slip and cavitation. In a sailing yacht, if the shallow is on the lee side, it would tend to increase the pressure under the lee bow, and on the leeward side of the rudder, at the same time. Whether it would throw the bow off, or steer the boat on, would depend on the position of the helm and angle of the boat’s course to the shore. The contour of the edge of a lake has a great effect on the waves set up in any wind. We have all seen the waves breaking on a gently sloping beach, and observed the backwash between waves. Now it is obvious that as water finds its own level the water carried in the waves must find its way back somehow. This it does in the shape of undertow. The steeper the beach and the more violent the seas, the more powerful is the undertow. The natural way for seas to expend themselves is on a sloping shore, but when they come against a wall the result is a broken, confused, unnatural sea. Although a walled lake, with a concrete path, is, in many ways, more convenient for handling models, it makes the wave formation more trying for the models. When one gets the combination of rather shoal water and a wall (as at this summer’s Fleetwood Regatta) the sea is even more trying. Naturally, lighter boats are more knocked about than heavier yachts, but it is bad for all. We have all noticed, particularly on a lake with a sheer concrete side, that when a boat is running almost parallel to the weather bank but gradually approaching it, the angle of her approach gradually eases. Then she runs close to the wall and parallel to it for a bit until suddenly, as if pushed by an invisible hand, she takes a violent sheer off. The reason of this is that a cushion of water has been keeping the boat away. Gradually this has increased until the water pressure overcomes the lateral resistance of the keel, and sets the bow off. (To be concluded.) MARINE i i\ 4 ee ee — 7 BRADFORD M.Y.C. The *‘ Temple ’’ Cup, presented by Mr. Geoffery Kitchen, member, was sailed for on October 26, after an abortive attempt the Saturday previous. The course was a triangular one, and the donor proposes to allocate it to each class in turn—this year’s event being for the 6m. yachts. The boats were sailed in pairs on the tournament system, from the usual starting places, 6ft. apart, and had then to pass between the three banks and two buoys moored about 15ft. from the two sides at the upper end of the lake. A yacht sailing outside the buoys had to return to the bank via the outside, and required very skilful handling. A most interesting race ensued, in which the following yachts competed :—*‘ Edith ’’ (W. Harrison), ‘* Olicana’ (S. Haigh), ‘* Bluebird ’’ (G. Kitchen), and ** Maid of Lorne ’”’ (S. Crossley). The Cup was presented to the owner of the winning yacht, ‘* Edith,’’ by the donor. Other races, for which the prizes are being pre- sented at the Annual Meeting, on December 7, resulted as follows : — October 27.—A-class, ‘‘ Beryl ’’ (G. F. Ambler). November 3.—10-rater, ‘* Whimbrel’’ (F. C Hirsh). November Naylor). 10.-—36in. MODELS restricted, ** Mimosa ’’ (F. We have to congratulate one of our energetic Racing Secretaries, Mr. Harry Atkinson, whose marriage to Miss Hilda Parr (a lady member who races a 36in. Restricted Class Yacht) took place on October 23. The club wishes the pair every happiness. J. P. CLAPHAM. BEDFORD M.Y.C. A party of 12 members of the Wickstead (Ketter- ing) M.Y. & P.B.C. paid a visit to Bedford on October 27, for a competition against the local club. There was a strong breeze blowing when racing commenced at 11 a.m., Mr. R. L. Whitworth acting as O.O.D. During the morning five heats were disposed of, when a halt was called for lunch. This was provided at the Russell Park pavilion, and much enjoyed by all present, as was also the tea later in the day. The remaining heats were got off in “half a gale,’’ and some very exciting racing was witnessed. Kettering, however, got the better of the day, finishing with an average of 21.6 points, against Bedford’s 17.5. Messrs. E. Law and T. H. Carr tied for first place with 33 points each, but on the run off Mr. Carr came top, thus securing the Silver Cup, which had been presented to the Visiting Club by the Bedford Secretary. Mr. E. Noel Binns (Commodore B.M.Y.C.) took the chair at the tea, and thanked the Visitors for coming over, and also presented the Cup to Mr. Carr, which he suitably acknowledged in a humorous speech. Mr. F. O. Robinson (Kettering) thanked the Bedfordians for their excellent day’s sport and entertainment, adding that they owed a lot to the Home Club for the assistance given them as regards the ** windjammer section ’’ of the Wickstead Club; they had only existed three years and he was gratified to see that their members had ‘* got down to it ’’ on this occasion, which would go down as a red-letter day in their history. R. L. W. SURBITON M.Y.C. The race for the Surbiton Cup was held on the Rick Pond, Surbiton, on September 2, and resulted as follows:—lIst, ‘‘ Winsome’? (W. R. Bayliss, Brighton & Hove M.Y.C.), 22 points; 2nd, ‘* Shirley ’’ (G. Hemmings, S. Eastern M.Y.C.), 18; 3rd, ‘* Phantom *’ (Capt. Gray, Surbiton M.Y.C.), 14. Other scores were:—** Astarte ’’ (Commdr. Barraclough, Surbiton M.Y.C.), 14; ‘* Marwin ’’ (Col. Moffit, Farnborough M.Y.C.), 12; ** Shikari ’’ (A. Robertson, Clapham M.Y.C.), 10; ‘* Sirdar ’’ (P. Morter, Surbiton M.Y.C.), 10; ‘* XLNC "’ (P. Edgeley, S. London M.Y.C.), 4. It is to be noted that Capt. Gray and Commdr. Barraclough are each shown as making 14 points. Capt. Gray had, however, two resails which it was impossible to sail off in time, and was, therefore, awarded 3rd prize. The O.0.D. was Mr. W. J. E. Pike, and the Starter Mr. A. J. Child. W. J. E. P. PORTSMOUTH M.Y.C. In spite of the rebuff given by the local authorities to the club’s project to create a new lake on an unoccupied part of Southsea Common, the members are still agitating for the provision of a proper water allocated to models only. In a large town, such as Southsea, where almost every attraction is provided to cater for visitors, and facilities for all other sports so excellent, it seems remarkably shortsighted policy not to provide a model yachting lake. What makes this more remarkable is that there are so many excellent lakes on the South Coast that one would have thought Southsea would not have been behind its neighbours in this respect. We wish the club all success in its endeavours to add a lake to the amenities of the town. PUGET SOUND M.Y.C. We hear that this club has adopted the M.Y.A. 36in. Restricted Class. We believe that this is the first overseas club to adopt this handy-sized little model. _——er wa ae MARINE MODELS ass Le TAP SES Se ees dele oe 258 R “aiversen we have experienced somewhat divergent opinions regarding the rule applying to starting stations. Hitherto throughout our active control of Championships and other events we have relied upon what, after special con- sideration, we still regard as an exceedingly simple rule and one that is absolutely fair to all competitors. We give the skipper of the first number called the choice of berth and tack at the starting end, the berths to be reversed on the run home to complete the heat. The starting sheets are so arranged that each competitor gets an approximately equal opportunity of choice of berth. Thus for six com- o> Se. +. ae petitors :— Ist Heat. 2nd Heat. 3rd Heat. 4th Heat. 5th Heat. 1—2 3—4 5—6 6—4 1—3 2—5 4—2 5—1 3—-6 6—2 1—4 35 2—3 455 6—1 Called 1 and 2, one gets the choice; 3 and 6, three gets the choice. It will be seen from this example that Nos. 1, 3 and 6 have each the choice on three occasions, and Nos. 2, 4 and 5 twice each. It is obviously impossible for each competitor to get an absolutely exact division, but this gives as fair a share as can be obtained. The system eliminates the hazard of the toss, saves time, and divides any advantage of berth station reasonably equally, which, in our opinion, is a desirable point, as presumably no skipper wishes to benefit from any circumstance of chance or luck that can be eliminated. We have found it work smoothly and well in an experience longer than we care to remember sometimes, and we recommend consideration of it to the M.Y.A. Sub-Committee now at work revising the Sailing Rules. If we may make a further suggestion, we consider that some alteration should be made in the rule allowing yachts to be ‘* pushed ’’ at the start. The difficulty is to define what is a ‘* push.’’ In many instances we have seen models which were thrown forward, rather than pushed, and this rule is a prolific cause of fouls occurring immediately after the start. We are really of opinion that an excessive push is actually an infringement, as craft are not “‘ sailing the same tack (with sails full and drawing) ’’ in such circumstances. Certainly it is not easy to draw the line. past two seasons made an We have during the effort to modify the practice in Scotland, and are glad to say with some little success, owing to the loyal support of our constituents, but excessive (may we say?) abuse of the rule is still far too prevalent. If there is wind at all a gentle start is all that is necessary, and even that generally can be dispensed with and the models allowed to draw away by the action of the wind alone, as is the rule if they come to shore in the course of a board, wind or no wind. Having unburdened our mind on the above points it is a pleasure to revert to a most successful fourpart inter-club A-class race, which was run at Vic- toria Park, Glasgow, on October 19, on the invitation of the West of Scotland Club. Fifteen craft participated, teams of four each representing the Scottish A-class, Paisley, Saltcoats, and the West of Scotland Clubs. As will be seen, one team of four only consisted of three boats, and one of the three did double duty as the fourth, d’ye see? Anyway, divisions of four, comprising one model from each club, were formed and sailed a tournament. ** Luss ’’ (D. Bonnar), of the A-class club, sailed in two divisions—a rather strenuous task. There was a wild, boisterous wind and some very alarming fouls occurred, but fortunately without any serious damage resulting. The models were surging along, throwing up a bow wave like a steamer, and travelling very fast indeed. Final returns gave the leading position to the A-class club with 48 points; West of Scotland had 41, Paisley 19 and Saltcoats 12. Two A-class representatives also returned the highest individual scores. ‘* Florada’’ (A. Main), with full points, 15, and ‘*C. Sharp’ (J. W. French), 13 points. ‘* Edith’? (P. J. McGregor, West of Scotland) was third, with a score of 11. The race provided the best turn-out of International class yachts here this season, and was a most interesting event. Mr. Iain McPherson, A-class Racing Secretary of the West of Scotland Club, to whose initiative the race was due, is to be congratulated on the outcome of his efforts. We had to rush away as soon as the actual race was finished, and consequently missed a happy social gathering which followed. The ‘* West ’’ invited all their visitors to tea, and about 40 friends enjoyed a very welcome repast. Secretary Rodrick, in the chair, extended a hearty welcome to the club guests, and described the race as a credit to them all in every way. He further complimented the competitors on the sporting spirit existing between them throughout the contest. Mr. C. F. Arthur, of the West, gave an interesting cinematograph display, comprising scenes taken during a motor (fie, Mr. A.) yachting holiday in the Firth of Clyde and Loch Fyne this summer, together with others, depicting models in action at the Scottish and National 6-m. Championships. These were particularly fine and clear. Mrs. Arthur supplemented her husband’s service by gracefully presenting the prizes. The Scottish Seen, responding to an invitation to address the gathering, referred to the hard fight he had had to popularise the A-class in Scotland. At times during the past seven years he had almost lost heart, but having fathered the brood he was happy in seeing it begin to multiply at last. (Good, for you, Daddy!) Messrs. Russell & Leggatt, for Paisley; Mr. Kerr, for Saltcoats, and Mr. I. McPherson, for the West of Scotland Club, also gave short speeches appropriate to the occasion, and ‘* Auld Lang Syne ’’ fittingly concluded a red-letter day. It is understood that the Scottish Secretary is inviting applications’ for further Godfathers. MODELS MARINE The Autumn General Meeting of the Scottish Association took place on October 26, when delegates from 14 clubs were in attendance. We were pleased to see a delegate from East Fife and to hear that the club is now taking on a new lease of life and producing class models. A letter from President Lt.-Col. Ian Dennistoun expressing his regret that indisposition prevented his presence, and touching on various matters, was read by the Secretary, who received the instructions of the meeting to acknowledge it suitably, and reply to the points raised. He was further desired to express the sympathy of the Association with the President in his continued ill-health and the hope that his condition would rapidly improve, and that we might soon have the pleasure of welcoming him here. Reports of the Association’s Championships and also of the Robertson Cup Race and M.Y.A. events were presented. The draw for venue of 6-m. and 12-m. Scottish Championships for 1936 gave the honour to Perth. Some discussion ensued regarding the 259 – waters for A-class 19326 Scottish Championship, a new quarter at Coatbridge being advocated and receiving some support. Eventually the matter was deferred until the spring meeting to allow delegates to consider the whole position at their leisure. Other matters dealt with do not call for any special comment here. Mr. C. F. Arthur kindly gave an exhibition of his Ciné films, to which had been added scenes from the A-class Inter-Club Race at Whiteinch, previously mentioned in these notes, which was much appreciated by the delegates. In a copy of a recent report on the performance of a certain model we read: ‘‘Also, was fouled, but, of course, the Scottish Commodore would not grant resail.’’ The italics are ours. Well, well, of a verity such is fame. Greatly daring, the Dennistoun Club have issued invitations for an open 6-m. class regatta, at Alex- andra Park, on November 30. It deserves success for its courage, and we doubt not it will prove one. But, oh! the vanished vision of our fireside comfort, just as it was becoming a habit, too! Photo: J]. A. Stewart ‘* ENDEAVOUR ”’ It is proposed that the ‘‘ Robertson ’’ Cup race for 1936 shall take place at Saltcoats, and in this connection the interesting suggestion is made that this race and the M.Y.A. 6-m. National Championship should take place turn about in England and Scotland. That is to say if the M.Y.A. event is run in Scotland, the ‘* Robertson ’’ Cup race will be held in England the same year. The following year the position to be reversed, M.Y.A. race in England and ‘“* Robertson ’’ Cup event in Scotland, and so on, thereafter. Similarly, it is mooted that the O.0.D. shall be an English nominee for the Scottish and a Scottish nominee for the English venues. This is only a tentative suggestion mean- time, but we do not see any reason why it should not materialise and prove of great benefit to the sport as a whole. Once again the year will have turned before our next issue appears, and we wish all our readers, wherever they may be, a future better, brighter, happier and healthier than all the past. May your sails aye draw true and your boatie row weel! THE SCOTTISH COMMODORE. SALTCOATS NOTICE TO (A-CLASS) M.Y.C, CORRESPONDENTS We regret that we have been compelled to close the Correspondence with regard to the merits of dressed (or doped) sails. Further letters on this subject cannot be replied to, whether intended for publication or not. MODEL SAILING CRAFT By W. J. DANIELS and H. B. TUCKER Price 25/-, postage 9d. The Best Textbook for Model Yachtsmen ORDER YOUR COPY FROM ‘‘MARINE MODELS” eee 260 MARINE Kass ACU Bey ji es PES Ses * ANOTHER DESIGNER’S REFLECTIONS ee Pn ees See athe a MODELS CORRESPONDENCE ee 25. Fi eRe ER Awe| BO Dear Sir,—The November number of MariNE MODELS is especially pleasing to me, containing as it does a 6-m. design and, above all, Yardstick’s article, ‘‘ A Designer’s Reflections,’’ for I must con- fess to spending much time doing as he says in the first two paragraphs. Always pinned on the walls, the last design I have worked I come into the room a glance slight improvement that might a new drawing. in this my den, is out, and each time at it suggests some be worked out in So out comes the roll of squared paper, the top of this writing table is cleared, and some pleasant hours are spent working out the lines, and as they are evolved, so, too, does the hull seem to appear in solid form as one looks at the drawing. I think I must plead guilty to having done this sort of thing for close upon forty years—in earlier years building the models, and sailing them—finding faults and trying to eliminate them. My bible in those far-off days was Hicks’ ** Yachts, Boats and Canoes.’’ One remembers well the old publication you mentioned awhile back, The Model Yachtsman and Canoeist—two of us used to read it as we stood at the back of hall during morning prayers! A few of us had 30in. models—10-raters and 5raters, and had interesting races for each class. Nowadays a well-thumbed book on my_bookshelves is *‘ Model Sailing Craft ’’—piles of MARINE MobDELs, Yachting Monthly and Motor Boat. A copy of your book ‘* How to Build Your Boy a Model Yacht ’’ is kept handy for any lad at school who is keen and can persuade his dad to help him make one. In your Editorial you write of the 50-800 class— the Marblehead class. Is there any chance of this class materialising in this country? When the controversy over the class was in full swing last year, I spent some enjoyable hours getting out a series of five designs to that class—each with the same midship area but varying in dimensions. Would not the 5-rater class, 6,000 Rule, fit into this class? L.W.L. 37.5in. takes 800 sq. in. sail. One could restrict the O.A. length to 50in., but probably nicer lines would ensue if the O.A. length were longer. And, if the cbjection is raised that the 50-800 Rule is not a British rule, why not reinstate the 5-rater? The 10-rater is exceedingly popular, the 5-rater for those who want a smaller boat should be as popular, especially for those who like to design their own boats—a simple rule. I am often told that the 6-m. and A-class are too complicated for ordinary folk to work out. Moreover the 5’s should give as much scope as do the 10’s for Model Yachting Association OTICE is hereby given that the 25th Annual General Meeting will be held at Anderton’s Hotel, Fleet Street, London, E.C., on January 27th, 1936, at 3 p.m. Nominations for Office and Council, together with Club Representatives and Proxies, should be in the hands of M.Y.A. Secretary not later than January 20th. Clubs and Members are respectfully reminded that such cannot be accepted while Subscription remains unpaid. Annual Subscriptions are due on January 1st, and should be paid not later than January 15th. The Fixture List for 1936 will be dealt with at Council Meeting on December 12th. Will Clubs and Members kindly notify any change of address or other particulars desired. Clubs are also” invited to send full particulars of Open Club List as_before. Fixtures for a Supplementary All communications to :— A. LITTLEJOHN, Hon. Sec. 124, Fitz-Neal Street, London, W.12 BUILD YOUR BOY A MODEL YACHT By W. J. DANIELS and H. B. TUCKER. With full-size Construction Plans for 30-in Class Model. Price 2/6 – postage 3d. extra. Contains full instructions for building, fitting and making sails, also chapter on sailing. Useful to Builders of any size of model. Should be in the possession of all Clubs catering for Juniors. experimenting. Thanking you for many pleasant hours spent with MaRINE MopELs and, too, for occasional articles of yours in Yachting Monthly, and wishing you continued success in your venture. Yours sincerely, T. J. CHILD. Trade Terms on Application. MARINE MODELS PUBLICATIONS Ltd. 52, FETTER LANE, LONDON, E.C.4. MARINE CONTENTS Editorial Contributions, MODELS Correspond- ence and Club News intended Page for publication must reach our Balancing a Yacht Design Offices not later than the 16th of month previous to publica- The Engineroom tion. The Editor does not underpublish to take all matter teceived. Where a nom-de-plume is used, cortect name and address of sender must be enclosed. The Editor does not under- graphs, plans, or articles submitted, but every care will be taken to ensure their safety, teturn endeavour will we same if Petrol Engine ea Topics Ships’ Boats… to postage is oe .. -» 261 .. 265 and Hydroplane .. 269 Ac ave as si ae eel Terms on application. Special for of All advertisements must be received at our Offices The Model Fishing Drifter, “ Boy charged 276 3K F A eae .. 278 «« A” Class Graph (L. s. d.) we 209 News of the Little Ships .. .. 280 Our Scottish Page .. Ss .. 283 Copenhagen M.S.C. ws .. 285 M.Y.A. News not later than the 16th of month prior to publication. i Club Regattas, etc. Any space booked will be for if copy is not received in time. The proprietors reserve the right to refuse to accept any advertisement without stating reasons. Small Prepaid enclosed. Enquiries rates Announcements How to make Model Ship and .. 274 4% Steamer Fittings.. Jim” take responsibility for photo- and Advertisements necessitating an answer by post cannot receive accompanied by stamped addressed envelope attention unless for reply. 52, FETTER LANE, LONDON, E.C.4. Telephone: Central 9914. Published on the 7th of each month. All rights reserved. Technical Enquiry Bureau Queries involving technical mattets will be referred to the experts in charge of various departments of this Magazine. Long technical replies cannot be given unless a fee of 2s. 6d. No responsibility is is sent. taken for designs, etc., submitted, but every_care will be taken and we will endeavour to return same if postage is enclosed. MARINE Advertisements Editorial and Publishing Offices : Private our For advertisements Sale and Column ate charged word. for Wanted 1d. per Minimum 2s. Box numbers, c/o MARINE Mopets, can be used _ if desired at an extra fee of 6d. Subscription Rates INLAND … OVERSEAS U.S.A. and CANADA be bona-fide ptivate advertisements. 8s. 6d. per annum. advertisements are not accepted $2 per annum. including all Double or Special numbers. and P.O.s should be made payable to Marine Mopets PusticaTIoNs, Lrp., and crossed ‘“‘ National Provincial Bank.” MODELS must 7s. 6d. per annum. POST FREE, Cheques All advertisements for this column Trade for insertion under these headings. All advertisements must reach this Office not later than the 16th of the month prior to insertion, and be accompanied by remittance. PUBLICATIONS, 52, Fetter Lane, London, E.C.4 LTD. ER “Sn ii MARINE MODELS W. H. BAUER, MODEL YACHT FIT-OUT AND REPAIR SERVICE SPARS, SAILS, FITTINGS and ACCESSORIES For all Classes. DECORATIVE, To WATER LINE, order SHIP only. MODELS AND HALF MODELS BUILT AND RESTORED. Workshops: 10, CELBRIDGE MEWS, PORCHESTER RD., LONDON, W.2 Model Yachting Association ESTABLISHED 25 YEARS THe Annual General Meeting will be held at Anderton’s Hotel, Fleet Street, London, E.C., on Saturday, Jan. 25th. Nominations for election of ceSe ee Officers and Council together with proxies should be in the hands of the Hon. Secretary, M.Y.A., by Jan. 20th. All Subscriptions are now due, and must be paid before a Club Appointed or Individual Member can take part in the Annual General Meeting. FINEST SOFT PINE Specially selected for Model All Boat Building. thicknesses from 4” to 3”, widths up to 24” ALSO Prime Honduras Mahogany plus postage Score Books and Score Cards. Prices on application All communications to :— A. LITTLEJOHN, Hon. Sec. 124, Fitz-Neal Street, London, W.12 CHETHAM TIMBER Co. Ltd., 70, FINSBURY PAVEMENT, LONDON METROPOLITAN E.C.2 7418 oe Se eee So oa, een Certificates for all Classes. “A” and I.Y.R.U., 2d. each. 10-rater, 6d. per doz. A Waterproof Glue Also Heat and Acid Proof. No more sewing joints. A permanent and Solid Waterproof Craft. W. CAINS Model Yacht Sails a Speciality Breaking strain in wooden joints, moist and normal, over 1,100 Ibs. per sq. inch. RECOMMENDED BY “MARINE MODELS.” Tin containing 2 oz. 8d., or 3 lb. 2/I, post free, from PROMPTNESS and QUALITY COMBINED Anglo-American Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., GALEN WORKS, DINGWALL ROAD, CROYDON. Phone: Croydon 3118. Trade Enquiries Invited. 7, King’s Rd., Gosport, Hants. When replying to Advertisers please mention MARINE MODELS.