Model Maker: Volume 5, Issue 58 – September 1955

“SIMPLICITY ” FREE LANCE ELECTRIC POWERED TRACTION ENGINE : £50 IN PRIZES FOR MODEL BOATS : NEW TUCKER 10-RATER DESIGN “WINDWARD” : “PATHFINDER” TRINITY HOUSE PILOT BOAT DETAILED DESIGN : “ CAMEL” AMBULATORY SPACE MODEL : “SILVER ARROW” MERCEDES BENZ FOR SMALL DIESELS : ONE EVENING PROJECTS IN : “NEWPORT NEWS” U.S.S. CRUISER STEAM LOCO : JETEXGAUGE 0 00 GAUGE : “DUKE OF GLOUCESTER” POWERED “BLUEBIRD” : FITTING OUT MODEL YACHTS : GYBING WITH VANE GEAR : M.M. MOTOR TEST : READERS LETTERS : TRADE REVIEW, * Me wy hi RIG BERMUDA HARD CHINE YACHT Beautifully proportioned, seaworthy and designed for simple straightforward construction. The graceful lines of this 27-inch length yacht with full Bermuda Rig and with a beam of 64-inches, have been created around a hard chine form of construction bringing an easy method of model yacht building to countless The streamlined hull, which is airtight has stable characteristics and the finely balanced design is worthy of the most experienced connoisseur of model yachting yet all features and fittings are reduced to a simple minimum for the beginner. modellers and completely eliminating the involved and laborous methods of carving the hull from block. Kit includes a suit of professionally-made pure Egyptian cotton sails, detailed plan and instruction leaflet, ready- lead keel, tapered mast, rigging line, screw-eyes formed bowsies and rudder unit. The simple rubber-tensioned auto-rudder will hold the yacht on aclosely defined course, KIT PRICE / INC PT.au HERE’S THE LATEST CRAZE… SKIDBOAT RACING! VERON OTHER BOATS INCLUDE 12-in. SKEETER speedboat 10/6 (Motor extra 9/11) 18-in. SEAGULL Motor Launch 19/3 24-in. DOLPHIN 14-inch SKIDBOAT Hydroplane for E.D. .46, E.D. “Bee” | c.c., or any motor of .46 to | c.c. Pre-shaped balsa hull. Can be operated singly (or raced in pairs from a central pylon). Kit PRICE IL/8 inc. P. Tax Designed expressly for Radio Control. Length 36 inches Beam 10! inches. For | to 5 c.c. power units or electric motors (6 to I2v.). Unsinkable construction. Cabin top removes for access to commodious radio well. KIT PRICE (inc. P. Tax) 72/11 Cabin Cruiser 35/POLICE 26-in. LAUNCH 42/- Above prices include P. Tax ‘VERON’ are sole distributors for the famous ‘‘TAYCOL” MOTORS Upright design. 44 to 6 v. approx. 4 amps consumption. women ta a 2% x 19°” x2” a Approx. .4 amps consumption. : . PRICE 13/64 PRICE 20/6 KINDLY MENTION. (Bournemouth) Ltd., x 4° x PRICE 64/2 P. Tax) (inc. | WHOLESALE ONLY 6v. 25 amps consumption 23″ (inc. P. Tax) MODEL AIRCRAFT Model Boats of 36” length upwards. (inc. P. Tax) 4 23” x 13” x 23” c For Radio con- trolled Norwood 4″ Place, | Bournemouth Tel. SOUTHBOURNE 43061 “MODEL MAKER” me LL ee WHEN REPLYING TO ADVERTISEMENTS SEPTEMBER, £50 BOAT 1955 MODEL PRIZES WE are proud to announce that we have accepted an invitation from the Daily Express to assist them in organising a Model Boat Section at their Second National Boat Show to be held at Olympia from December 29, to January 10, 1956. Last year’s show, which was the first of its kind, attracted widespread enthusiasm and favourable comment from the public, as well as the national and specialist Press, so that it is not surprising to find that this year floor space has been considerably increased, and the cream of the country’s boat firms will be represented. Organisation is in the hands of the Ship and Boat Builders’ National Federation and the show is sponsored by the Daily Express. The feature in which MopEL Maker, and we are sure you, our readers, are particularly concerned, will be some sixty feet long and ten feet wide. At each end there will be half-round counters, one devoted to a demonstration of model boat building—all classes of amateur work such as elementary balsa boat building, kit assembly, more intricate hull construction, work on galleons, fibre-glass process, and, in fact, something for visitors at all stages of skill from tyro to expert. The other stand will be available for the sale of our magazines and other publications. Visitors will always find a member of our editorial staff available to discuss their problems, whilst our demonstrators will be equally helpful. The centre run of forty feet will be devoted to a display of typical model boats of all kinds. It will be arranged in tiers, and we anticipate that there will be room for approximately one hundred models to be displayed. We shall be getting in touch with the secretaries of the various model boat bodies to invite their active assistance, and hope that expert members will be able to come along from time to time to give of their knowledge to visitors. To encourage readers to take a really active part in this display—which offers the movement its greatest opportunity of the year to present model boating as an expert. skilful and adult hobby—the Daily Express are putting up a prize list amounting to £50. Boats will be divided into four classes: Sailing Yachts, Powered Craft, Radio-Controlled Boats (which can also include R/C Yachts), and non-working models (galleons, waterline, and exhibition models generally). Each class will enjoy a prize list of £5 First, £3 Second, £1 Third Prize with a Championship Cup and £5 Prize for the best model on display (which will not then be eligible for a class prize). In addition, every model accepted for display will receive an attractive Certificate of Merit as a lasting memento of the Show. All exhibitors will be given a free ticket to see their model on display. Arrangements will be made to receive models before the show—details of sending in arrangements will appear nearer the date— and all models will be insured during the show and until they are safely back with their builders. Judging will take place before the opening, by a competent panel of experts. At this stage, we should like to hear from any reader contemplating submission of a model, when we will forward an Advance Entry Form on which details of the model can be filled in. In view of the limited number of models which can be accepted, and the need to retain a balance between the various types, the earliest intimation of would-be entries will be appreciated. Owners of famous and beautiful models who may feel that participation in this contest might be unfair to less skilled modellers can also submit entries on a “ hors concours” basis—that is, loan exhibits not included in the judging for prizes. 497 MODEL MAKER i Dy hd ® A NEW IN “Windward” may appear to be of tried to combine the planing ability of early 10-Raters with the windward qualities of later yachts. Waterlines up to 60 inches have been tried, but experience has shown that 54-55 inches is enough. In consideration of this, other relative dimensions. such as beam, displacement and wetted surface, have DESIGN to be borne in mind. This boat has a moderate displacement 11.0 in. with THE “WIND” sight, ‘ Startling novelties. However, in her design, I have Wap 10-RATER first fairly normal type, but when a Class has been in existence for about 70 years, it is not easy to introduce yy ; nay Aft of 3041b. and a a maximum Beam L.W.L. Beam of of 12.25in. Her section is easy, and should permit her to heel readily in light winds, but in heavier winds she should rapidly become stiffer as the angle of heel SERIES increases, and when her full sailing angle is reached she should have great sail-carrying power. The draught is 12.0in. and this should enable her to carry the fairly high aspect ratio sail-plan I have BY given her. Actually, in the hands of a very expert skipper used to high, eae ~ plans, “ pedir e H. B. TUCKER could carry eS an even higher plan. In -plans of high aspect ratio, the adjustment of thesaikickingstrap oy in an all is rather critical, but it becomes very critical ultra-tall plan. For the benefit of those unused to high sail-plans, it may be mentioned that WINDWARD HB Tucker COPYRIGHT MODEL MAKER 28. CLARENDON OF PLANS BO, APPROX. POSITION SERVICE WATFORD. 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Twist a piece of wire round this from which the boat can be suspended. Put the lead keel in place. Put a weight of 6 oz. on the deck aft where your vane gear will come, and one of 1 1b. 12 0z. where the mast will come, and check the fore-and-aft trim accordingly. Do not take your Trimming Ballast into account for trimming the boat, but keep this for final adjustments when she is completed. It must. of course, be considered in estimating the completed the secret of success is to sail the boat as upright as possible, once the first sailing angle is reached. The design of lead-keels is one of the designer’s bugbears. As an instance of why this presents diffi- culties, I would cite the experience of a well-known model yachtsman who had two A-class keels cast from the same keel pattern. Not only did one keel weigh 21b. more than the other (5 pv.c. difference), but the C.G. differed quite appreciably. In order to ascertain the approximate weight of lead that will be reauired, the designer makes a Table of Weights, but it must be stressed that these weights are only approximations, since the designer does not know what method of building is to be employed, or what wood will be used. Further, the weight of wood varies even with boards cut from the same tree. Hence the builder must keep the Table of Weights in front of him, and note against each item the exact weight. Many of the items do not vary much, and the main differences are likely to be found in the Hull and Deck. With a note of any differences before him the builder should be able to adjust his total weight of lead. However, the matter does not end there since because of the liability to variations in weight of weight. If your boat is not on her correct fore-and-aft trim, a little experimenting with weights will give you a very close idea of what adjustment is needed. Usually, designers calculate their keels to cast about 5 per cent. overweight, but it is also a frequent occurrence for the moulder to make his casting bigger than the pattern. This is due to extra smoothing down of the sand in the mould. Hence the builder is likely to have a margin of weight in his lead keel, the component parts of the yacht, it is not possible for the designer to ensure placing the C.G. of his which enables him to make adjustments comparatively easily. At this point, the builder. should be able to ascertain not only what adjustment is needed SAIL__AREA 60-0 X 17-0 ForE AV - 510 LESS IS P.C. +~_76 2 434 for trim, but how much lead he IM MAINSAIL 710 X 18-4 _ 554 ¥6 Thick sxes 3RD SUIT 4a ee Ji6 MAINSAL NOTE TO BE A SECOND HANGER PROVIDED. OF ON MAST 54-OABOVE DECK FOR SMALLER JIBS DIMENSIONS 77-0 LW. LWL BEAM. MAX. ’ BEAM. 55:0. 1o 12-25 DRAUGHT, 12-0 DISPLACEMENT 30> 25LB. SA. 1088 SQ INS. can dispense with. Provided the sole of the plane is lubricated liberally, with turpentine, lead is easily planed away with a steel Most keels are jack – plane. designed nowadays with the top face horizontal and the after face raked downward to the heel of the lead. If the boat is noseheavy, the first adjustment can be made by planing away on the top face. If the yacht is sternheavy, the adjustment is made on the after face. When the balance is correct, both faces are planed down. If the amount of lead is \ very large. sometimes a block of lead is taken out. If small. then holes are drilled downward from the upper faces, and subsequently ~ LOA 5 olk?’5 me a Ae… filled with stopving wax. VARNISH PAINT, RIG (INCL SPINNAKER) VANE GE. \h \\ \ i Nf DECK (INCL. BEAMS & HATCH) NOTE: OTHER FITTINGS SUNDRIES TRIMMING BALLAST LEAD KEEL raps DADAO sang WEIGHT: TABLE OF HULL (INCL. DEADWOOD) 30 _4 IS DESIGNED TO CAST SOMEWHAT OVER WEIGHT KEEL FACILITATE ADJUSTMENT TO GET CORRECT TO FORE-AND-AFT TRIM In adjusting the weight of lead. it is better to err on the side of being too light than too heavy. In the former case, it will mean a little extra trimming ballast has to go inside the boat, even if this is placed at the C.B., but in the latter case, the boat will be overweight and float below her designed L.W.L. Any space left by planing away lead is easily filled in with a strip of wood. Before leaving this subject, I would stress the desirability of 503 “Windward” is very well balanced, and at 20 degrees of heel, her C.B. moves a bare 0.08 in. aft. Most authorities permit a tolerance of movement up to 0.5 per cent. of L.W.L. length, which would be 0.28 in., so her balance is to all intents and purposes perfect. Care has also been taken to eliminate any other possible causes of steering vices. As she is intended for serious racing, ‘* Windward” is designed for vane steering, and should be trimmed so that she requires a mere touch of helm (not more than about 3 degrees) to keep her travelling to windward. She will require a good linkage ratio to her vane gear. She should answer very readily to her helm, and only require small helm angles, but these will need to be held firmly. I have shown a Guy Blogg pattern radial jibboom, and remind builders that the essence of this fitting is that the kingpost on which the gooseneck is mounted, must be raked so that it points directly at the head of the sail. To keep the jib-stay taut, runners must be used. These should lead from the mast at the height of the jib-stay to a point on the gunwhale about 94 in. abaft the mast. The lower ends of the runners should have quick detachable fittings. I have given the second mainsail and jib the same length on the foot as the top suit. This gives the necessary relief without too great a reduction in sail area. I have stipulated for a second hanger to be fitted on the foreside of mast to accommodate the forestay of the second and smaller iibs. The radial jib-boom can be used with the second jib as well as the first, but the third jib can have an ordinary model yacht pattern jib-boom. It is intended that “ Windward” shall have Tery- lene sails with a light plastic balloon spinnaker. If BOOK ordinary sailcloth is used, it will not be possible to get the full roach to stand on the mainsail, and its width must be reduced accordingly. It will be observed that the greatest width of roach js placed high on the after leach. ‘I would suggest that a metal mast be used for lightness and small windage aloft. Duralumin tube can be used for jib-boom and spinnaker boom, while the main-boom can with advantage be a flat wooden spar. Owing to her length and the somewhat narrow sailplan, it may be found advisable to use a Liverpool Boy to ensure her head boxing off quickly, and obviate any tendency to hang head to wind or be slow in stays. Also owing to her high, rather narrow sailplan, the spinnaker becomes very important when she is running. A topping lift fitted to the spinnaker boom may prove invaluable in light winds. Finally, to those who are considering building “Windward”, I am sure she will prove a very easy boat to plank because of her lines, but she is suitable for building by any of the recognised methods. oe —- A CORRECTION In my article on ““Raked Midsections” last month, an unfortunate printer’s error occurred, and the word “NO” was omitted. In writing of the constant M/C height of the Circular Arc boat, it stated: — Since the M/C does not rise as she heels, her form gives her additional stability . . . This should have read: — Since the M/C does not rise as she heels, her form gives her NO additional stability as the heeling angle increases, and she depends entirely on the artificial stability given by her ballast. REVIEWS UR esteemed contemporaries Percival Marshall & Co., Ltd., of 19/20 Noel street, London, W.1, have sent us a number of cheaper card-bound technical handbooks for review of which we have selected one or two of particular interest to our readers. Most noteworthy is undoubtedly B. Terry Aspin’s “Foundrywork for the Amateur” which is made by the really fine illustrations drawn by the author. The subject of pattern making, casting, moulding-boxes, the right metals to use, the proper quality of sand, and the whole realm of technical hints and tips is explained in just the language that model makers will understand. We can truly say that this is a book we should dearly loved to have written. At 5s. for 91 pages including eighty-six line drawings and twelve half-tone illustrations it is a particularly good buy. Ernest Carter is responsible for “00 Gauge Layout and Design”, which sells at 3s. 6d., this being a reprint of the book published in 1950. Since railways do not alter so very 504 quickly it is still “brand new”. The railway enthusiast intent on getting his layout to look real will enjoy the many sketches of full-size railway station track arrangement, many of | which can be adapted to fit into quite unambitious schemes without vast expenditure on complicated points. It is a book for frequent reference, whereby breaches of standard practice can be readily avoided. With so many ex-government and surplus electric motors still on the market at ridiculously low prices “Practical Armature Winding” is another re-print (originally produced as a Revised Edition in 1948) that is worthwhile at 3s. 6d. The book deals in the main with larger electric motors around the 1 h.p. mark and should not be bought for advice on winding of miniature motors. Another friend in a new dress is “Micrometers, Slide Gauges and Calipers” at 3s. Anyone without a copy should remedy the defect by acquiring what is virtually the modeller’s standard work on the subject. —_— taking great pains to get the boat on to her correct line of flotation, otherwise she will never perform as she should. SEPTEMBER, HE deck of the yacht can be either painted or varnished, and will presumably, be traditionally decorated with imitation king-plank and planking lines. There is a recognised code for drawing the king plank and deck plank lines, which I regret to say I do not usually follow, so I will not stipulate what design should be followed, but restrict my remarks to one method I have used for putting the lines, etc., on. 1955 STARTING ON THE RIGHT TACK AN INTRODUCTION TO MODEL YACHT RACING PART THREE: FITTING OUT (1) PAINTING & VARNISHING BY D. A. MACDONALD The first step is to prepare the surface of the deck, having ensured that the underside is sufficiently well protected with varnish to prevent artistic efforts on top being subsequently spoiled by damp from beneath. If the deck is to be-painted, a flat white paint of fine quality is required. I prefer Ripolin king plank is also drawn in in pencil at When all the pencil lines are this stage. deemed satisfactory they are drawn over in A fine draughtsman’s pen is Indian ink. required for this, and one or more suitable and undercoat because of the very smooth matt battens, about two to three feet long is job The section. square in. 3/32 proor it din, which s, surface, free from brushmark to duces. A broken white shade may be con- quite easy with two persons, one helping sidered preferable to pure white. Sufficient hold the batten while the other draws the line. Starting, for coats are applied to cover and completely fill The work is done in stages. outside line the in draw bow, the the except at coat every example, the grain, rubbing down first (which can be applied slightly thinned on the starboard side up to a point nearly down), with No. 280 carborundum paper. As opposite the mast position, follow this with an initial primer before painting, a sparing the next line in, and so on, until the whole application of thinned varnish is quite effective. The surface produced after rubbing down the Ripolin is excellent for drawing in the deck lines. For a varnished deck, I normally apply first a priming coat of thinned varnish. After 24 hours (when it should still be not quite dry) I rub powdered whiting into the deck with a clean rag, rubbing down with glass paper the This “bleaches” the wood following day. slightly and subdues the grain pattern. Two coats of varnish or gold size, rubbed down gently but evenly, will provide a fair surface. To prepare this for drawing, rub on a quantity of french chalk, but make quite sure that the varnish or size is quite dry before attempting this. Check that a pencil line can be drawn clearly and rubbed off again before proceeding starboard bow portion of the boat is drawn in. Then tackle the port quarter section in the same way, followed by the port bow and the starboard quarter in that order. The port and starboard midship sections are then filled in. In this way the risk of smudging lines by a stray coat sleeve or finger is minimised. The lines drawn in the ends of the boat should be of different lengths so that the joins made when the midship portions are filled in, are irregularly staggered, and minor faults in joining up are minimised. A razor blade will enable errors in lining to be scratched out and corrected. Any visible pencil marks can be removed with an eraser. The king plank should now be First apply a with an artist”s suitable, and a further. I use the device shown in Fig. 2 to draw in, as far as possible, the deck lines in pencil. It consists of a form of T-square, with a set of holes at 5/16 in. intervals into which a_ pencil point can be inserted. It has two wheels (actually small ball bear- ings) which enable it to be run smoothly round the hull while will not enable the outer device deck lines to be completed, but the lines are being marked. The this is easily done by hand. The coloured to the desired shade. thin even wash of oilstain, paint brush, No. 2 or 3 will be sable brush is worth the slight a weweeeb ie WASHER BALL BEARING 3/4″ DIA. Sy ( °o|) WASHER WooDScREW ONT GLUED APR Eas es wre ae Bs 9 1 4 °}) ‘T PIECE “SQ 3 FIG 2. 505 mi — at _ [Pr om, meas STRREvED cha! enee 4 : goats:once ARTICLE! MODEL extra cost. Johnson’s wood dye is very suitable for this work, and the medium brown shade quite attractive on either a painted or varnished deck. Immediately after the first coat, proceed to apply a second, with the brush almost dry. It will be found possible to work the dye into any desired grain pattern. A very pleasing effect is produced by having the king plank darker at the ends of the boat, lightening in colour slightly towards the midships. The king plank should have 48 hours to dry,and should not lie on its side during the process, otherwise the king plank colour will tend to run, producing a complete mess. When the king plank is really dry, a coat of varnish is applied warm, with a minimum of brushing, as this could soften the dye and cause it to run. The covering boards round the inwhales, and the bow and stern covering pieces, which should have been previously varnished, may now be fitted after the deck varnish has been lightly rubbed down. As the deck will be horizontal while it is being varnished, the next two coats of warm varnish can be applied quite thickly, in fact “flowed” on with a soft brush. The varnish should be strained before the final coat or a fresh tin of varnish used. The brush should be thoroughly washed in Surf and warm water before and after use, and rinsed in turpentine before applying the varnish. By this means a very high gloss will be produced, and this will enable the deck to be kept clean and bright for a long time. The reader may wonder why I have devoted so much space to painting and decorating, and may wish to comment that a painted deck, for example, won’t make the boat go faster or win more races. I am not so sure about the latter, for I feel sure that a well-finished craft must improve and may in his opponent. to contribute the morale of the skipper, and fact undermine the morale of And both effects can be said to success in racing! However, we should now have a hull which fulfils certain other of the requirements we originally laid down, in that it is sufficiently well protected to stand up to a season’s racing, and it has a good surface of low skin resistance. It is therefore good enough to pass on to the next stage, which will deal with the provision of mast, spars, rigging, and fittings. MODELLING ALONG OPHE Blackpool Club held its Open Day in glorious weather on July 10. There were 47 cars entered in the competition—M.C.A. members having travelled from London (Edmonton and Pioneer Clubs), Nottingham, Sunderland and Hooton. Speeds were not very high, especially in the first run, as the heat seemed to upset the cars. There was only a light land breeze, as for once, Blackpool’s famous sea breeze was absent. Competitors and visitors alike made good use of the refreshment tent—minerals being first favourite. Everyone enjoyed themselves, and we received congratulations on a good meeting, and nearly everyone promised to attend the National. Speed Trophies’ competition to be held here on August 21. Winners” ewere: 1.5 co. Class—A. Thrower, 69.28 m.p.-h. 2.5 c.c. Class—A. Elwood, 83.02 m.p.h. 5 c.c. Class—A. J. Cook, 92.59 -m.p.h: 10: cc. Class—B. Thorneycroft, 112.64 m.p.h. R, A. C. A. The I.R.C.M.S. Regatta at Gateshead on July 30 appeared briefly on TV over the holiday—which is the nearest to participation that most southerners achieved. While no one would 506 ….. deny the north of England its regular meetings, it does seem rather odd that a non-territorial society, staging an alleged international meeting should choose a venue that is further from the port of entry of most would-be Continental visitors than they would have had to travel across Europe! Since foreign entries for this regatta seldom seem to be forthcoming in any numbers it might be a good idea to drop the international angle, then we would all know where we are! On that subject, we visited Verulamium, St. Albans, to get pictures of their holiday meeting—which will appear in the October issue— and here again we must voice a criticism in the most constructive manner. There was little or no signposting to the lake and it was necessary for our photographer to prospect on foot for some time before he found that the entry for cars was through the Cathedral grounds! When we took the family to an athletic meeting on the following day we were never in doubt of our destination from several miles out—and this for a mainly local attendance. Where venues are not obviously located, please secretaries do spend a bob or two on direction arrows! E E E MOOER MAHER} GYBING WITH VANE STEERING BY, A. Fig | oP aide 4; —- WILEOCK “Braine” steering prac tices to get the most out of Vane steering. It will be found that this theme extends also to gybing. One can alm ost of Vane steering to model yachting to the introduction of plastics to industry. At first it seemed that it was the “be all” and “end all” of many problems but as time goes on experi ence shows that it was n’t quite that, and that some of the old met hods and materials are bett er after all. As before it will be best to start by defining what is meant by GYB E. While guying takes place when Sailing to windward, ie. into the wind, gybing takes place when aaa x \ Ve Pas WIND in the July and August issues of the MobEL MAKER under the title “Guying with Vane Steering”. A final conclusion in that article was that we had to Tevert to certain the introduction a —p> E HIS article forms a sequel to that publishe d liken g sailing to leeward, i.e. running before the wind. When running before the wind the main boom is well out on either port or starbo ard. If while sailing the boa t changes course relative original trim, which can only be done by retrimming, but it will keep the boat moving generally in the righ t direction. Fig 2 sho ws the course for leaving the bank on a gybe to gain a better sailing position, Where the original trim was goo d and the gybe too k Place due to a fluke of the wind the retu rn gybe clearly puts the boat back on its intend ed course. One of the Vane’s wea kest sailing points is on the run, for whe re on the beat the speed of the wind flow past the feather is wind speed plus boat spee d, on the run it is wind speed less boat speed. (These are only bro ad comparisons withou t introducing mathem atics). Furthermore, except when Carrying a spinnaker, the angle of helm required to mai ntain a straight course is greater than On any other point of sailing. to the wind so that the boom Swings over to the opposite side, it is said she has gybed. Similarly, if a boa t comes ashore and the main boom only is swung over by han d to the opposite side bef ore the boat is released , it has again been gyb ed. Until recently this Operat ion alone was not allowed in racing to M.Y.A. rules, but this is now allowed provid ing the boat is stopped to carry out the gyb e. Gybing is usually a product of bad trimmi ng and is an unwanted manoeuvre although wind eddies from trees are also a frequent cause. When it does take place Tequired to return the a boat second to the gybe is orig inal course and that is the gybe to whi ch this article pri marily relates, In addition, howeve r, there is also the case whe re to leave the ban k, after a retrim, set for a gybe, one can get the boat away from the ban k. Fig. 1 shows the mis trim condition where, due to excessive helm, the course taken eventuall y allows the mai n boom to gyb The line covers gear To found gybe back again will not improve the 522 anchoring arrangements for Fig. 3 (a) the plain van e while 3 (b) the combination vane and Brai ne. Considering 3 (a) the usual double runnin g sheet (lines) is used and eyes e. If a spinnaker jis bei ng carried it is imm ediately useless and the boa t becomes very bed raggled. and gybing will be clea r from Fig. 3. and are fitted to both side s of the vane on the deck advantageous to sheet double right fro m adjacent. It will be have this running the bowsie on the SEPTEMBER, 1955 boom as shown as this avoids a hook trailing across the deck when a gybe takes place, with the possibility of it fouling gear. They pass through sheaves (or eyes) fitted near the edge of the deck about midway between the mast and the rudder post. With the combined vane-braine gear the only alteration is that it is usual to place the deck plate for anchoring the sheets, when not on the quadrant, centrally, just in front of the quadrant as shown in 3 (b). The settings for sailing are illustrated in Fig. 4 (a) shows a full run with Fig. 4. balloon spinnaker and plain vane. Fig 4 (b) the same with combination vane-braine in which it will be seen that the running sheets are crossed. This, the only difference, applies in all cases and so is not illustrated separately Fig. 4 (c) shows the in the further Figs. settings for running without a spinnaker (since one is not possessed by all, particularly the newcomer), with the sheets set for the return gybe. Fig. 4 (d) and 4 (c) show settings more approaching a reach. the rudder much earlier for the return gybe which is usually an advantage. For the combination gear this same feature can be obtained by providing a second anchoring plate forward of the former or have only this forward plate. The rynning sheets can be left set as above when changing to the beat for the return course since they will be quite slack and inoperative. The one hooked to the vane in the plain vane case is a very convenient safety line to avoid the loss of the vane overboard in a collision! It will be observed that in all cases the working sheet is the one anchored to the deck either to the side of the vane gear where it is a plain vane, or to the central plate where The other (free) it is a combination gear. sheet is connected to the vane or quadrant to give maximum helm in the direction to return gybe when the boom is over on the first and unintended gybe. In the plain vane case it is advantageous to fit a second eye on each side of the deck, say two inches in front of those adjacent to If the working the gear (A in Fig. 3 (a)). sheet is now anchored to this eye it will be found that the boom when going over operates Concluding note:—All Figs. 4 have been drawn for the wind directions shown in Fig. 1 and 2. Where the wind is on the opposite quarter the opposite sheets are, of course, the ones that are anchored and the then free sheets are attached to the opposite sides of the quadrant or vane gear. Fig. 5 shows this and is the equivalent setting to Fig. 4 (d), but for the opposite tack.