- The Multi-Suit Sail Strategy. Walter K. Moss outlines a specialized sail plan for skippers in regions like Wisconsin, where wind velocities fluctuate wildly. He argues that a single sail plan is insufficient for competitive racing.
- The Three-Suit Rule: A general practice of carrying three sets:
- Suit No. 1: Maximum permissible area for light winds (798.7 sq. in.).
- Suit No. 2: 10% less area than No. 1 for moderate blows.
- Suit No. 3: 20% less area for high wind velocities.
- Center of Effort (C.E.) Adjustment: To maintain balance in heavy winds, the C.E. of Suit No. 2 is placed 1 inch ahead of Suit No. 1. This corrects for the increased speed and pressure that typically causes a yacht to head up too strongly into the wind.
- Luff Design: The mainsail features a 4.25-inch concave/convex curve in the luff to create a flat upper surface and a flowing lower section, maximizing drive in a high-aspect-ratio rig.
- The Three-Suit Rule: A general practice of carrying three sets:
- A Defense of “Gadgets”. The Commodore’s Corner takes a defensive stance against critics who labeled modern aids like the sliding rig and vane gear as “mechanical robots.”
- The Lassel Letter: A.P. Lassel argues that “perfect balance” cannot be achieved by hull design or metacentric analysis alone. He contends that moving the Center of Effort via a sliding rig is the only rational way to compensate for real-world wind variations.
- The Hypocrisy of Rules: Lassel points out the inconsistency in rules that allow skippers to change rudder areas to achieve balance but forbid “movable keels” or criticize sliding rigs as “pernicious.”
- A New Era: The article describes the “horse-and-buggy days” of model sailing as being in transit, urging the community to embrace scientific efficiency over nostalgia.
Volume 17 Number 9 SAIL PLANS $5.2 Dimensioned and Balanced for the Marblehead Class 31 (42). 3). ly encounter high wind velocities during the course of our model yacht racing season, it is almost essential. that our craft be equipped with first, second, and even third suits of sails, while the hulls themselves remain of such a (er Se | — — — -— — — * ERE in Wisconsin, where skippers frequent- e sail requirements. “fe 1_ design as to be driven easily on those days when the winds are light. This situation compels many of us to make more than a casual study of our {et MODEL RACING YACHT Naturally, every model yachter crowds the area restrictions in his No. 1 suit of sails in order to get the most out of his boat on the “light” days. When this suit (and the wind) causes too great a heel in the hull, with a consequent slowing-up of the speed, it is time to put on the second suit, continuing to the third, if the second proves too large. There doesn’t seem to be any hard and fast rule as to how much smaller the second and third suits should be, nor would this be practical, because of the variations in the different hull recovery powers. However, it is a fairly general practice to obtain the maximum area per- missible in suit No. 1, 10 per cent less area in suit No. 2, and 20 per cent less than No. 1 in suit No. 3. If there are to be only two suits, the smaller might be 15 per cent less. Many theories have been developed with regard to the ratios between jib and main areas, foot to hoist, and length of keel to foot. An effort has By Walter K. Moss 294 Scale: 1%” to 1”, given in hundredths. Suit No. 2 measurements in parenthesis. SAIL AREAS. SUIT NO. 1 61 x 19.5 SUIT NO. 2 52 x 16.7 ‘ = 434.2 Mainsail = 594.7 40 x 10.2 “= 204.0 37 Jib X89 5 _ 157.2 798.7 594.7 x 23.5 — 13975 204.0 x 591.4 CENTER OF EFFORT. 83—= 1693 798.7 798.7 434.2 x 20.0 = 8684.0 157.2: 6.3: 591.4 9674.3 (from reference) 591.4 Jib to Mainsail Foot to Hoist Area to Maximum Jib .14 Concave .15 Roach 1.00 Roach CURVES. Luff Foot Leach (990.3 r — = 16.3 PERCENTAGES. 1/2.91 1/3.0 99.9 1.75 Roach Jib 15668 15668 —— — 19.6 Mainsail 12C&C .25 Roach Mainsail 1/2.84 1/3.0 86.5 Mainsail .12 Concave .25 Roach .15 Roach Jib .16 Concave .15 Roach -15 Roach ADDENDA. Mast stepped 6” ahead of c.l.r. on conventional design. Sail plans bal- anced to a 4” mast rake. Center of effort of No. 2 suit 1” ahead of that of No. 1 suit to balance heavier winds. Booms will clear water under average heeling of yacht in blows. Jib fore-stay is under 80 per cent height ruling. Spar lengths: mast, 65.5; boom, 21.5; jib-club, 12.2. The Modelmaker been made to consolidate the best of this Cider Luling information into the accompanying illustration and measurements. The relation- ship of all these factors has been given consideration as well as the balancing of the two suits of sails. On a conventional Marblehead design the sail plans suggested should prove most satisfactory, although it is generally advisable to follow the sail plans accompanying any hull blue print. That every sail plan must be balanced on the craft with which it is used is a foregone conclusion, but once a balance has been achieved no further difficulty should complete be experienced when changes from first to second suits are made, as O the general balance will remain appruximately mount a center drill in the tapered hole of equalized. The 4%” concave/convex curve of the mainsail luff provides for a flat upper surface and a more flowing curve in the lower section. This seems center-drill round work in the lathe, the lathe spindle. Screw the three-jaw chuck on the spindle and by lightly closing the chuck jaws on the work, rods of any size within the capacity advisable in such a moderately high sail plan. The .14” concave jib luff will furnish a fairly flat surface, but not to such a point where all jib pulling power has been lost. The forward, and lower, position of the center of effort in the No. 2 suit will do much to correct for the differences between higher winds and faster motion against lighter winds and slower motion. as The high-cut clew of the mainsail should prevent the boom dragging, which would make your steering gear inoperative, and the loose foot can be made adequately flat by tightening up on the outhaul in heavier winds. The ratios of the component parts will be found in the figures accompanying the illustration. These are some of the factors weighed in submitting these bal- anced and dimensioned sail plans. Like the experienced golfer who finds that a balanced set of golf clubs improves his game, so of the chuck can be centered quickly and ac- you will find that a balanced set of sails will curately. improve your yacht’s performance. being fed to the drill with the tailstock center. The work is held from turning while @ To Sandpaper Round Objects It need not be difficult to hold small sheets of emery cloth or sandpaper when cleaning and polishing small round stock and tubing. Fold the sheet once double and push it up between the lower halves or flaps of an automobile hood corner guard as shown. The soft rubber pre- vents the smooth outside of the paper from slipping, and the outside surfaces of the gadget make a comfortable grip for the fingers. More of the surface of the round stock is covered and the abrasive is completely and uniformly used up.—Frank June, 1940 Bentley. 295 THE COMMODORE’S CORNER P to the present time discussions of the vane gear and its component, the sliding rig, have been tolerant and instructive. Recently some articles appearing in a publication allegedly devoted to the sport have irked not only the devotees of these appurtenances of the “new era,” but all fair-minded non-using skippers besides. In the following letter A. P. Lassel illuminates certain aspects of the controversy, and quite capably, and in gentlemanly fashion, defines real sportsmanship, in contrast to certain hysterical opinions written by persons with no practical experience in the use of the vane gear and sliding rig. Users of either or both of the gadgets are perfectly within their rights to equip and sail their yachts under the rating rules of the National authority without violating any of the ethics of the sport. Mr. Lassel’s letter: To the Editor of “Commodore’s Corner”: There has been much ado, in public print, about the sliding rig and the vane steering gear. Most of the “disquisitions” have been stark rationalizations, showing lack of first-hand knowledge of the writers on the subject, or an unwillingness to face the facts. The “horse-and-buggy days” of model sailing are in transit and we are being treated to the spectacle where the votaries of the “good old days” are scrambling at the salvage job, with no holds barred. The new era of model sailing needs no apologia, does not thrive on lament, does not ask for exclusive franchise, but an eduucation of what it stands for is a crying need. Perfect balance does not exist in sailing vessels, nor can it be achieved by design of the appendage, which is a profitable expedient, or by a meticulous meta- centric analysis of hull sections, which is less so; but an approach toward the goal can be made by these means: The rest of the distance must be covered by moving the center of effort to compensate for variations in wind strength and courses steered. The mast must be stepped, raked, or the rigging moved as a unit to promote this end. Fundamentally, the ethics and purpose are the same, whatever method is used, yet the most facile rational one has been labeled “pernicious” by holier-than-thou sportsmen. Equally inconsistent are the emotions, expressed as rules, which permit the selfsame purpose—balance—to be gained effectively by changing the lateral plane by means of rudders of various areas, while, at the same time, project their wrath on the “movable keel,” which represents as puerile and ineffective a method as can be conceived. This rule is a monument to our stam- peding instinct and an indictment of our vaunted emotional level and knowledge of facts. Relegate it into the family skeleton closet. 304 EDITED BY CHARLES FARLEY Presentation and discussion of technical and theoretical subjects related to model yachting will be the feature of this department. Material intended for publication should be addressed to “The Commodore’s Corner,” care of THE MopeErmaKER. Constructive criticism of articles and plans are invited. All such, however, must be free from rancor or personalities. In a recent California Championship Regatta, 14 boats competed. Every one was equipped with sliding rig and vane, but the rig was not used; there was little need for it in reaches, contrary to all the calumny we hear. If anyone had had occasion to slide his rig ahead to relieve an overworked helm, he would have been thanked for his interest in according the best competition within his power. Two rounds in 2 days, not one protest and a sea lawyer’s vacation! When the champions of the Eastern and the Midwest Divisions come to Berkeley, in 1941, it will be considered an act of courtesy for them to have equipment commensurate with the requirement of accurate sailing. If they have better gear than we, they are doubly welcome. Sportsmanship is not synonomous with intolerance. A. R. LASSEL. & Construction of the 40/700 Class Star Model. BY HAROLD L. TEEL. [Harold L. Teel needs no introduction to the model yachting fraternity. He has served as a member of the National Executive Committee of the M. Y. R.A.A., as Pacific Representative, and, as Director of the Model Boat Shop (Long Beach, Calif.) Recreation Commission, he has supervised large groups of youngsters who have built hundreds of the 40/700 sharpies that participated in annual regattas on a large scale basis. [Walter Many, the designer, affectionately dubbed ‘‘Admiral,’’ is one of the most interesting and interested of the old guard, and has spent a large part of his life furthering the interests of the sport. His boat will be found well worth while building, and if the lines are carefully followed, a fast and seaworthy racer is assured. ] | F you are looking for a fast, able model sailing yacht, I would like to recommend the 40/700 class Star model. From the standpoints of simplicity of construction and economy, we have found the model designed by Walter R. Many, N.A., of Los Angeles, Calif., the ideal one for our purposes. In the past 7 years hundreds of models of this type have been constructed in the Long Beach Recreation Department Model Boat Shop, and in other Pacific Coast model yachting centers. While constructing this model, the main thing The Modelmaker MATERIALS NECESSARY FOR BUILDING THE 40/700 CLASS STAR MODEL Building Board. 1 pe. 1” x 4” x 44” white pine (base). 1 pe. 1” x 1” x 36” white pine (stations). 1 pe. 4” x 6” x 24” white pine (molds). Hull. 1 1 1 1 1 1 for pe. 4” x 4” x 6” philippine mahogany (stem). pe. %4” x 8’ x 43” white pine (floors). pe. 4%” x 12” x 6” philippine mahogany (planks). pe. 4%” x 12” x 4” white pine (deck). pe. 8” x 24” 22 gauge galvanized iron (keel). pe. 7” x 6” copper or brass tubing (stern tube rudder post). 1 pe. %” x 6” stainless steel or brass rod (rudder post). 1 pe. 34” x34” x7 ft. No. 1 straight grain spruce (mast and boom). 614 Ibs. lead (ballast). 2 yds. 36” width sail cloth, berkley cambric or other suitable material (sails). 31% yds. linen tape (sail binding). 3 doz. %”-3 brass screws, f.h. 1 doz. %”-2 brass screws, f.h. 6 doz. 34”-18 brass escutcheon pins (deck). Casco Grade A glue. Note—Mahogany may be used for stem, planking or deck, and cedar or white pine planking is also satisfactory. to keep in mind is always to be as careful and ex- continued down to the building board. act in every detail of your work as is humanly cutting the molds, put them in place by fastening possible. the lower part to the cross pieces with 1”-4 After screws. Find the center of each mold and indi- The Building Board and Molds. cate it by drawing a line on the side facing the A base or building board on which to construct stem of the boat. Check the board for trueness the model is needed. The building board should before beginning construction on the frame of be 1” thick by 5” wide by 44” long, and it should the boat. be straight and true and free from twists. The longitudinal center must be determined drawn on the board. You are then ready to mark off the locations of the stations, numbering them from stem to stern as shown. Secure the cross pieces in position, using 2”-6 screws. The Floors and Transom. and Set all cross pieces %4” ahead of the White pine 4” thick is the most desirable for the floors. There is more chance for accuracy if you mark out each floor on stiff cardboard and cut as shown in the drawing. Use these cardboard pieces as templates for the wooden ones. station line. They should be set on the board at The templates can be used many times and thus specified intervals, starting with the No. 2 sta- will save a great deal of labor. After cutting out tion. the wooden floors, find the center of each and You should use 1”x1”x4” material for cross pieces. draw a line indicating where it is located. Also In cutting and fashioning the molds, make sure that these are true; take all dimensions from the body plan of the lines. These molds, made of 4” white pine, must be the shape of the boat at the stations—namely, to the inside of the plankof the floors, and Inwhale Planking Rabbert lines = Planking — 7 ing, and to the top receive the keel piece. The floors are now placed on the molds so that the front of the frame is flush with the front of the mold, and the center lines of each coincide. Fasten the floors to the molds with small brads or shingle nails on each end of the floor; drive them just far enough into the molds to hold firmly, as they will be removed later. The transom should now be cut a Stem cut a slot on each frame 4” deep and 1” wide to Fy out as shown in the drawing and DETAIL o- STEM fastened in place by two small screws which attach it firmly to the cross piece. Deck Z Brass Screweye This allows the hull, when completed, Be pe aaa fender =— to be removed easily from the building board. The stem can be fashioned from a 7%” x 4” x 6” piece of either white pine or mahogany. Side View Water June, 1940 Bow | View Line | As indicated in the drawing, the stem must be rabbeted so that the chines and in- 305 |} Section in way of Hatchway. Section in way t of Veck Beam. gy a Decl Veck at Side PeEcTioON B-B ENLARGE? iE Rudder Post – g Brass Rod on S ibe Le Stern Post – 7 Brass Tube _ : . mé— Ambroid : Wood Skeq Wood Seg me Lead Ping ba ty Section ATA. . Floor = Keel WATER lee Buildjing IE – ELeyation , Transyerse View – Keel r= WHELAN Mew ; 4 Sta 7 Outside of bottom planking7 ——— – et pe Fioor — ae – Motded Line- Bottom of keal ; piege Side Vieul PETAILS OF SLOTTING IN WAY or Moutps ano FLoors. DETAIL OF MAsT Step SE + 5 ae | Moula ht fi P : ate t nesanom | ed | Stal 6 — ae ‘Top of keel — Bottom ol ayeter piece mould e- Pould ons piece Floor ee Mould Cross piece Stal5 Cross piece Stal) 4 7 Building Bo 306 The Modelmaker Deck at Side Chine Line i PLAN W.B. MANY, NAVALA TER pize — _Limensions “Length Over All 39° Length Water Lin 2 Extreme Beam — 3 3 , E a3 7) ag i an5 ap 3% s+ ‘ 2g = ma A . « Floor- Sta. 6) ee ree Bovy. PLAN > e Board Deck at Side £ suf §3 og Building Floor- Sta.4 ; r(d _Floor-Sta 3°5 _ Proft Hull Pratt Fin é3 n% Stlem| Sta} 2 3 PL Cross piece Beeps | e- Moula Le Cross ba @2 = | <— Mould Water 3 F FLOOR AND 5. | _linch by Siaches is : S". June, 1940 aS 3" io 307 wales will fit flush with the stem, allowing enough leeway for the planking. ground to a taper, is used for drilling the holes. In placing the second bottom plank, repeat the The next step is the cutting, fitting and laying process used on the first. of the keel piece, chines and inwales of the hull The same procedure that was used in placing frame. Either white pine or straight-grain spruce the bottom planks on the framework should be will be the most suitable material to use. used in fastening the side planks. Allow the glue The keel piece is %4” thick and should be cut to 1” on the planking to dry at least 4 hours. in width, and 41” or 42” in length. Fit the keel In removing the hull, see that all parts which piece to the stem and floors so that you have are fastened to the board have been loosened. the right curve as indicated in the drawing. Trim the side planks so that the planking is It will be necessary to trim and bevel the slots flush with the top side of the gunwale. Give the in order to obtain the proper snugness. inside of the hull two or three heavy coats of The chines are the next parts to be put in place. The chines and inwales are 34” x 3” in paint or varnish to seal all small openings. Before fastening the deck to the hull, place size, and from 41” to 42” in length. First try the supports at several places along the hull. chines to see if they fit properly on the floors; if deck stringer of %4” x5” x40” white pine is they do not, cut and bevel the ends of the floors fastened to the stem and stern in order to give until you get the proper fit. The chines are support the full length of the deck. A Two deck securely attached in the same manner as the beams of the same keel was fastened to the floors. The inwales are placed 15” and 22”, respectively, from the stem. put in place by the same method used on the Directly under the place where the deck beams keel piece, except that the inwales are attached and to the hull only at the stem and stern. stanchion, based on the keel. It should be just Now remove the nails that are holding the floor in place, and then fair the chines and keel deck material should then be stringer cross, place a %4” dowel long enough to give about 34” of deck camber. The material best suited for decking is No. 1 piece with a wood file. After fairing the bottom of white pine, 4%”x12”x 42”. the hull, find the center of the keel piece and be turned inward should be coated with at least draw a pencil line from stem to stern. You are two now ready to place a bottom plank on the hull. similar to that used on the inside of the hull. The best method for getting the proper shape of This prevents the deck from cracking, swelling heavy applications The side that is to of varnish or paint the plank is to make templates out of cardboard, or becoming water-soaked. Line the top side of one for the bottom planks and one for the side the deck to resemble the seams between planks planks. Then mark out the planks on %” thick by first shellacking or lacquering the deck, then material, using either white pine or philippine sandpapering lightly. Then mark out the plank mahogany. In sawing out the planks allow ap- lines lightly with a pencil and go over the lines, proximately 1%” more than actual size, in case using a straightedge or batten and an ice pick, more width is needed than the template allows. Care should be taken in fitting the bottom plank on the keel piece. or pointed awl, and then fill in with mahogany wood filler or white paint. Plane and bevel the Before fastening the deck down on the hull be edge that lies along the center line of the keel sure to cover all of the inwales, cross pieces, etc., piece so that the edge of the plank lies perfectly with glue. To make sure that the deck does not along the center line. Next place glue along the slide and turn, it is best to nail first the bow se- chine, one side of the transom, and on the keel curely and then the stern. The deck is fastened piece. to the hull with 144”-20 brass escutcheon pins or The plank may be held in place by the use of clip-type clothes pins. Set your dividers 34”"-0 brass screws. Take a plane and trim the about 1144” apart and mark off the points where edge down until flush with the gunwales. the round hardwood toothpicks are to be placed hull and deck should then be sanded smooth. (To be continued.) in fastening the plank to the frames. A %e¢” drill, Decn Remover The he Ven Beams — heme aA * ———- Deck IN Pace. 308 The Modelmaker BY C. O. BROOK ELL, here we are back up North again. When we left the cow nurses in Texas the thermometer stood at 94 above, and continued to stand. It did stoop a very little on occasion, but it did pretty good for the latter part of February, March, and what part of April we stayed there. We managed to be ushered in here with snow, sleet and ice—and rather a shivery disposition—but here we are, back at the same old stand in Rensselaer, N. Y. We told you previously about the sport there, or rather our attempt to get the folks excited about it. We find that over in Houston, Tex., a couple of hundred miles away, a very lovely lady has a model yacht club started. We forgot her name (Charles Farley knows it), but we know she is going places with the sport... . Over in our own neck of the prairie we discovered a jim-dandy of a model, a copy of the Yankee. She is 72” l.o.a. and displaces some 40 pounds. It is a real racing craft, though not in any class. She was built by 17-year-old George Ridder, of Central High School, San Antonio. We stayed over at a place in Mississippi and chatted with the host over some dozen cups of coffee [This copy was not notarized—Ed.] from 5 p.m. until 3 a.m., in which, of course, feeling ourselves an emissary of the sport, or charge d’affaires without portfolio, or whatever they go without, we started telling the assembled loungers how we sail boats. Of course they thought we meant big boats, and didn’t seem much interested until I showed a couple of pictures of some of the events I have attended. Well, from being incredulous they became downright interested . . . thought we rode in them . . . and when they saw the ’39 Year Book, with all the pretty flags, etc., they sure found a subject for discussion. They were the best listeners I ever yarned to (they even forgot to collect for the coffee after the first two cups), and we had a nice midnight lunch—gratis. One lanky boy, whom I judge to be about 16 years old, with either darn long legs or comin’ June, 1940 on to an awful lengthy man (when he stops growing), got all “het up,” as he said, and wanted to know how much they cost. Thinking to kid the chap, I said they were worth as much as $300. He said, “Waal, I hain’t got quite thet much, but derned if I wouldn’t pay a pretty to own one.” ... To which I elucidated more ac- curately on the cost. “Maw kin make the sails, I reckon,” said Lanky. At any rate, Confucius say, “Man come back,” and again the women do, too, with the Bayview Women’s M. Y. C. of Detroit, Mich. Miss S. Moede, of 11681 Laing Ave., is secretary. I had some kind of a hunch they’d be outnum- bering us one of these days . . . or should I say “daze”? Over in New Jersey, the Essex M. Y. C. has formed from some of the members of the Irvington M. Y. C. That club is evidently getting so big they had to do something like that. And new clubs are in the embryonic stages in Tacoma, Wash., and Portland, Ore. Good ... we can’t help getting excited each time we hear a new club coming up, even though we know it is bound to happen. And Vice-President Ted Houk has some ideas about taking the championship at Michigan with his vane and sliding rig in the M class. Doc will bear watching even in the best company. Our national champ, Paul Collette, figures to make the Boston boys take a back seat on their own pool before long. . . . Can be, can be, Paul . only those Down-Easters sure know their boats, and their pool in particular. And we have it passed along on pretty good authority that the vane will be permitted to overhang the hull, which will be welcome news to a lot of skippers who have a rudder post almost under the transom. Also, that any combination of steering gear may be used in conjunction with the vane. This last part is not official as yet, but seems quite likely by Spring opening, or by the time this goes to press. I see Farley, over at the Boston Club, has a 319 new X that sure can travel. The 50’s it has been as a “commercial” .. . so, in going over some of pitted against haven’t a chance, and the A’s are the issues of the past several months we wonder doubtless in for some stiff racing when they get if the readers appreciate to what extent THE their undies wet. MopELMAKER is working for the sport. We have He also has a nice 40/700 class design that I monthly articles by many of the leaders of the have an idea he wrangled out of some trusting model yachting sport, men who know their stuff soul. and are liberal to a fault with their donations. The 40/700 makes a nice small boat... a restricted rule like the M class (50/800). This .. . Dr. Houk, Charles Farley, Walt Moss and particular job is a sharpie which maybe Charles others contribute their experience so that you will place before the readers of this mag before long. [See page 304—Ed.] I know Charlie’s may gain headway in your following of model busy these days ... can’t even get a vane and published complete, makes this an ideal contact sliding rig on his new 50. You know what I say, for all, and it should make the magazine an Charlie ... “The devil finds mischief for idle integral part of every library, both as a reference hands,” etc. . . and by having too much to do, and as a history. yacht racing. . . . And all these contributions, One such appreciative skipper is Milton Sloat you won't get into mischief. I have beside me the racing calendar for the of 205 Girard Ave., Hartford, Mass., who writes Boston M. Y. C. I had planned on copying it for me that he saw his first copy of the magazine and the mag, but it looks so much like a list of events will be a real booster. O.K., F. T., go after him. for the next century I think I had better suggest That’s a smart job, Charlie, that you did on that clubs or individuals who are interested in the Year Book. the Boston events write Charles Farley, 87 Quin- And we see a nice measurement certificate for You are to be complimented. cy St., Medford, Mass., and have him mail you a the X class and one for the M class which Top- copy ping sent along through Farley. (you send the postage as a matter of We are going courtesy, of course). You'll find it lengthy and places. interesting, to say the least. M. Y. R. A. A. and should be in every club, We are bursting with a secret which we are These especially certificates since they are cost official only 75 by cents the per not permitted to divulge. Why, oh why do skip- hundred. They can be secured by writing Mr. pers place a sweet model before us and then Farley or the treasurer of the M. Y. R. A. A. say, “But this is confidential, and no news must And speaking of registration, we are impelled leak out until after we race it the first time’? This much I can say. It is in the Deeper Hudson to wonder just how many of each class each individual M. Y. C.; it is carefully designed; it’s radical in ours costs considerable to keep alive; yet, when principle from anything attempted so far as we we consider what it would cost if the officials re- know; and it’s a real “boaty” looking job. I am attempting to inveigle the owner to take it over will register. Like all enterprises, ceived salaries, we can call ourselves fortunate indeed that we have so many men to “shell out” to Boston even before this gets in the magazine so that you may have more pleasure at more ... then, if it performs as per hopes, we may see events. a change in one of the classes that several old can be done—just keep in mind that what you timers have been hoping for. The more boats registered, the more spend to register your models is not used for We like to get in a “plug” for the mag when anything but your pleasure. The time is freely we see it can be done without being looked upon given, and I would like to see every skipper register every boat he intends to sail, regardless of the class. FULL SIZE BLUEPRINTS for the 50/800 Marblehead Class Racing Yacht "LICK ITI” Designed by Walter K. Moss Only $2.50 Postpaid These plans are exceptionally well detailed and include full size drawings of fittings, mast, etc., as well as thumbnail sketches ‘and perspectives to aid in construction. THE MODELMAKER 1568 W. Pierce St. Milwaukee, Wis. That is small change to pay for a year’s pleasure. Farley is taking a lot of “shots” this year, for the Boston club. He will be over trying to nail the Marblehead Cup, the Eastern division championships in pond and skiff work, and also over in Detroit to snake the national championship out of the area in the M class. Well, he is an able skipper, and on the rare occasions I was able to upset Charlie’s calculations, well, I sure got a kick out of it... but I have to admit it was luck on my part. They turn out good skippers over where Charlie comes from. And that’s that .. . until next issue—“C. O.” 320 The Modelmaker
