Marine Models: Volume 7, Number 9 – December 1934

AA Aa ne eq batama ns 58 8 re Se NAYVVV\NWYNYYDYTISINNYYDDDDIIDIIDDD DSI} Published on the Seventh of each Month Vol. VII, No. 9 December, 1934 THE PROPOSED SCHEME FOR NATIONAL 10-RATER CHAMPIONSHIP VG E have long deplored the fact that with the single exception of the A-class Championship, none of the National Class Championships is more than The 10-rater is the most a local match. numerous class in the country, and it is fitting that if something is to be done to make these events really representative, the 10rater Championship should receive first attention. The race at Birmingham this summer was more representative than ever before, and _ this is decidedly encouraging. The difficulty in making a success of National Championships is that many men have neither the time nor money to go long journeys, especially if at the end they are getting simply an afternoon’s match, where a little bad luck may put them out of the running from the start. The essentials to make any National Championship scheme successful would appear to be :—{a) That participation should not be a matter for individual effort, but that each club should hold its own races, and send its best boat. Thus it would be an honour to represent the club, and the club would then be responsible for the expense of entering and sending its representative. (b) That boats and men should only sail for clubs they are registered under, thus preventing evasion of the entry per club limit. (c) That the main prizes should go to the club rather than the indi- vidual, though a prize to the winning skipper also would not be out of place. One way of raising the necessary funds to send men from a distance would be to put a levy of, say, 2s. on every 10-rater owner who competes in his club’s series of races to decide its representative. Whether this money should come to the M.Y.A. or remain in the club is hard to decide. If it was certain that every club would thus raise sufficient to: send a representative to the Championship it might be better to leave this matter to the clubs. It must not, however, be overlooked that, owing to situation, the expenses incurred by some club representatives might merely be a 2d. tram fare, while others had a couple of pounds to expend. Our own feeling is that, in order to make a really attractive event and get a reliable decision, plenty of time should be allowed for the race, which should be at least a two- day event. A generous donor has promised three substantial prizes for 1935 to give the scheme a start. After that, 10-rater clubs and owners will have to contribute towards the expenses of their own Championship. We hope that those interested will avail themselves of this opportunity as, if properly carried out, it cannot fail to enhance the importance of the class and also benefit the sport in general. 228 MARINE MODELS THE SUGGESTED RULE FOR AN INTERMEDIATE CLASS OF MODEL YAC HT ia mediate Class is adapted from the formula HE rule now suggested for an Inter- put forward by Admiral Turner in 1922. The constants have, however, been changed with the result that the rule imposes very drastic limitations on L and S. As proposed, the rule is : — 15L+Y7S ———_——_ =3] 25 L is the average of Load Waterline and Quarter Beam Length, and S the Sail Area measured by I.Y.R.U. methods, with the following exceptions : —Four Battens are allowed in mainsail (two centre ones 5in., top and bottom 34in.); height of rig above deck limited to 62in.; headboard to mainsail not more than 3in. gear, also a dry measuring machine, similar to that used for the A-class, but smaller, with proper quarter-beam spot finders and draught Taking quarter-beam measure- measurement. ment accurately is not at all easy. In order to measure this accurately the Y.M. 6-m. O.A. installed most elaborate apparatus in their clubhouse at Surbiton, which cost, we believe, about £30. Is this what is wanted for small boats about 45 to 50 inches, or thereabouts, overall > The rule sounds simple, but the measure- ment is decidedly complicated—very little less so than an A-class or 6-metres, whereas correspondence shows that nine-tenths of the people interested want a simple class to a rule easy to understand, and measure. At the M.Y.A. Council Meeting the sponsor of this formula produced a very pretty little boat that rated under the rule, but overlooked the fact that this type is not necessarily what will ultimately be produced under it. It would be quite easy to produce an A-class boat that Draught is limited to 8in. Now let us take some actual examples : — L.33in., S.784; L.34in., S.701; L.35in., S.625; L.36in., S.552. It will, therefore, be seen that L will not vary more than about 2in. If the amateur would be successful in competition with the on sail will be so heavy that his boat is at once outclassed. The above rule can, of course, be more duced under a rule are never the same as later boats produced when experience has been builder gets long on his waterline, the deficit simply stated, as :— 15 L+/S=775 but that does not alter the fact that with the present constants the penalty ‘on length is too severe. Now if the rule is amended to: — L+/S=60 the figures would run : — L.33in., S.729; L.34in., S.676; L.35in., $.625; L.36in., S.576. This gives the same size boat and makes the rule more elastic. Incidentally, a betterlooking boat would result, as there would be less tendency to snub back the forward lines. The proposed rule also contains a restriction on draught to 8 inches. This is normally sufficient for a boat of this size, but is an additional restriction, and something else to measure. Before adopting this rule people should consider whether this is really what is needed. It entails a tank with proper waterline measuring was an out-and-out scow, but whether it type generally produced under the rule is a very different matter. The first boats pro- gained, so any exhibit of this type should be entirely disregarded by the experienced. The complications of modern rating rules frequently appal the novice. Do we want a rule to suit experts or novices? Do we want this rule to be a simple one that will attract recruits to the sport? I suggest that this rule is primarily for the expert, and, therefore, suitable for large classes. Had it been adopted in place of the Y.M. as the big international class, it would have proved at least as satisfactory, and not have produced such large, heavy boats, as there is no premium on displacement in the form of additional sail. The Y.M. has its good points, so has the I.Y.R.U., and so has this rule, but is it what is wanted here, or would a really simple rule be preferable, and sheer simplicity outweigh any disadvantage inseparable from simple rules? I express no opinion, but simply put the issue clearly for the rank and file of model yachtsmen to consider the pros and cons. ANON. MARINE . A _——T- moe = REG iH Lo ‘ ty ast. a ae Le ‘ a: – a Ve ‘ i . WA oy ne ie… MODELS 229 sie W. Munro. ae we ah SENG — -_—:-= Ss er f. (Concluded from page 212.) HE braces on the fore and main have their standing ends hitched to the mouse of the collar on main and mizen topmast stays, respectively. The running part is reeved through the brace block at the yardarm, and then through a leading block, stropped to the plate, to show this part of the rigging more clearly. It should be noted, however, that it is not to scale, as some of the smaller fittings would be quite indiscernible at this size. next aft, and then down to deck at the side. The mizen topgallant braces are mostly single, and have an eye-splice in the standing’ end, Again, I have contracted others so that some detail will be more clearly understood. It will be remembered that the bowsprit and its gear was dealt with in an earlier number, but it is included here so that its relation to the other headsail gear may be made quite clear. Starting with the bowsprit, the bobstays and shrouds are seen in position and set up with dead-eyes. Also the forestay with its collar and heart are seen in position. The set. striker, are seen at the end of the bowsprit. It will be noticed that a stout line is rigged between the cap and the knight heads, one on each side, and that it is supported by a short foremost shroud in the rigging of the mast which goes over the yardarm. The running part leads down to a sheeve in the double block at the peak of the gaff, as was described for the topsail braces. At the period with which we are dealing royals were considered as extras, and the yards only swayed up when the royal was to be In fact the sail and yard went up together, and the yard should not be seen when the ship is at anchor or with harbour stow. A grommet was worked round the mast to hold the yard to the mast, and the tye and halliards were in one and were reeved through the sheeve hole at the royal mast head and led down to deck on the same side as the topsail halliards. The royal stay also went up with the yard, and had its upper end seized to the grommet round the mast. There were no lifts and braces were only fitted on big ships in the Royal Navy. The sheets were merely loops, which fitted over the topgallant yardarms. There were no other fittings at first, but as the ships developed in size the other fittings appeared, including foot-ropes and clue-lines, etc. However, we shall not have to consider these as the Blackwall frigates were the first Indiamen to adopt the royals as regular sails with the yard crossed like the topgallant. The headsail gear is rather complicated on_an old wooden ship, and somewhat difficult to explain in words alone. | have, therefore, included a rough sketch, more or less in perspective, in the accompanying cap, with all its little accessories, and dolphin- span at about the middle, hitched to heart of the forestay. Two poles are secured to this pair of lines athwartships. They are so placed that when the fore topmast staysail is down, it will rest across these two poles. Between the poles some ratline stuff is worked backwards and forwards to form the netting which supports the sail above the bowsprit. A plan view of this is shown at A. Just abaft the cap, on either side, are the bee blocks; they are formed like cheek-blocks and have two sheeves, one forward and one aft, to take the fore topmast stay and the pre- venter stay. The preventer stay is reeved through the forward one on the starboard side of the bowsprit, and the fore topmast stay is reeved through the after one on the port side. The remaining sheeves are in case the others fail. The ends of these two stays have deadeyes turned in and are set up to the knight heads on either side of the bowsprit. The jibboom is a simple spar, round throughout its length except for a little flat under its heel or after end, where it rests on a saddle on the bowsprit about its length in 230 MARINE from the end. At the heel there is a notch cut in the upper surface to take the lashing which secures it to the bowsprit. The lashing is a couple of turns of rope passed round the two spars, and seized between them for security. At the outer end of the jibboom, a boomiron is fitted to the extreme end, and so placed that the flying jibboom will pass through it from the starboard side of the cap to cut the centre line of the ship with its outer end. Just in from the boom-iron a sheeve hole is cut to take the fore topgallant or jib stay (some ships have both stays, and others combine the two). A little further aft, stops are formed on the jibboom; these are for the guys, martingale, and topgallant stay, if carried. Perhaps I had better describe the dolphinstriker before continuing the rigging on the jibboom: it is a long, square-sectioned piece of timber, which is secured to the bowsprit cap by two or three staples. There is no particular rule for its length, but, to keep things in good balance, it is about half the length of the spritsail yard, and has the same proportions at its quarters. There are two sets of cleats corresponding to the thimbles on the spritsail yard. ; These may be formed by driving an iron pin through the sides of the dolphin-striker and bending the two ends down. Jibboom guys have an eye-splice in the end and are slipped over the end of the jibbooto the stops. They lead aft to the inner thimbles on the spritsail yards and have deadeyes turned in at the ends and are set up at the forecastle head at the side of the knight heads. The martingale is made in exactly the same way, but is extended by one of the inner cleats on the dolphin-striker. The fore topgallant stay reeves through the sheeve hole in the end of the jibboom and is then set up like the martingale on the opposite side of the dolphin-striker. The jib stay has an eyesplice in the end and is slipped over the jibboom end like the guys. When no flying jibboom is carried, a pair of cheek blocks are bolted to the outer end of the jibboom and their forward ends act as stops for the guys, and the two stays reeve through the sheeve holes and pass down to the dolphin-striker as before. A pair of footropes are extended between the outer end of the jibboom and the after side nf the bowsprit cap. The inner ends MODELS are hitched to the jibboom just abaft the cap, which holds them in place. The outer ends form a cut-splice and fit over the end of the jibboom. At every yard of its length it should have a diamond or overhand knot, to give the men a foothold. Like all other footropes they should be hung so that a man standing on them will be able to support his chest against the spar. The flying jibboom has a square heel which is fitted into a mortice on the starboard side of the bowsprit cap. It passes through the boom iron and has its sheeve hole just within the stops at the outer end. The guys are set up exactly like the ones mentioned above, and have their inner ends at the catheads, a point which I forgot to mention before. Here, again, the stays are set up according to whether there is a royal stay as well as a flying jib stay. The sizes of the jibboom and flying jibboom rigging are as follows: flying jib stay and guys, 3in.; jib stay, 5in.; jibboom guys, 43in.; martingale, 64in.; footropes, 3in.; and netting or manropes, 34in. We shall now go to the other end of the ship and consider the mizen yard. In the plate, given in our June number, the ship is shown with a gaff mizen and not a mizen yard. As was mentioned in the same number, the yard gave place to the gaff at about 1800. Of course, mizen yards were carried by some ships at a much later date than this, and they were very popular with the Indiamen as the spar was very useful when one of the others was carried away. The length of the mizen yard should be about six-sevenths the length of the main yard, and it is formed exactly like a normal yard. Its fittings are shown in the present plate. They are: a pair of cleats at the slings, a cleat at the first third, another at the second third, and, finally, one at the peak. The forward half is quite free of cleats and only has an eye-bolt driven into the end. Another eye-bolt is driven in at the after end to take the small block for the flag halliards. A large double block, a jear block, is stropped to the slings and the yard is placed on the starboard side of the mast, ready for swaying up. Another double block is stropped to the masthead, above the rigging, and the jear fall is seized above this. The running end is taken down to the sheeve, nearest the mast, in the block on the yard, and then up to the corresponding sheeve at MARINE 231 MODELS Fore Topmdst Staysail ! Middle Sai) 3 e Knight Heads Cathead. ZZ ZEEE AE ge “THE COASTER” From a Drawing by C. T. Clegg, com- mercially-produced steam plants and, if care is used in the installation, hull and deckwork can be adequately protected from heat. Steam is never quite as clean as electric plant, but with care in installation most of the disadvantages on this score can be avoided. The greater reliability of steam, coupled with the greater interest of running, outweigh the patent advantages of electricity. Undoubtedly, in certain boats the installation of steam plant is almost impossible, and these will continue Ship Model Society, Liverpool MARINE MODELS 239 PETROL ENGINE AND HYDROPLANE TOPICS By J. B. INNOCENT (Continued from page 209.) al AVING said a few words about carbu- rettors, it will be as well if I now refer to the various methods of feeding them with fuel. There are three methods available to us, and two, namely, gravity and pressure, are quite easy to arrange, though not without their own little snags. The third is pump- feed and, for the moment, I think this is best left alone, as the pump is a complication we can well do without at present. The simplest system is obviously gravity and, it is, of course, used quite extensively, but I have seen it give much trouble, through insufficient head as a rule. One definite drawback is that the tank must be high up and, apart from the unsightliness of this, the centre of gravity is already too high in a petrolengined boat. Another drawback is that you cannot use it with a horizontal or down- draught carburettor unless you are willing to put the tank higher still. For really certain feeding the head should not be less than three inches. Pressure-feed is the method we use, the pressure being obtained from an_ inflated bladder of the type Woolworth’s used to sell for small footballs. Unfortunately, this valuable emporium has stopped supplies, and it is now difficult to get a bladder that is not too strong for the job. A reasonably soft rubber is essential, so that a fairly steady pressure will be maintained. When fitting a bladder always put a tube, either copper or thick rubber, right down the nozzle into the bladder proper, to avoid any kinking. It is as well to have a fairly small hole between bladder and tank, say, not more than 1/16th, to stop the easy access of petrol, which will, of course, ruin the rubber. The air-valve on the tank is a bit of a nuisance, as rubber is useless. Primus valves are quite all right, but a bit cumbersome. If you know a racing cyclist ask him for a valve out of an old tyre, and tell him you want a “French” valve or a “Constrictor.” The French valve requires a deeper hole in the connector than standard, and you will have to drill it out a bit. The petrol tank is best made out of sheet brass, soft-soldered together. Seams must be well lapped over or they will split. Now here is another point—don’t take the feed from the tank itself or you will have trouble; build a well on to the bottom of the tank, feed the well by two 3/16in. holes, or one large hole covered with gauze, and feed from this. You are, of course, hereby avoiding surging trouble for, as the petrol is left behind in the float chamber, when a boat is released, so it is in the tank and, once the boat gets going, it is flung all over the shop. The petrol pipe may be fitted by means of a union, but I always silver-solder it direct into the well before soldering the well to the tank. This brings us to two more tips: firstly, don’t take petrol feeds from the absolute bottom of anything, always leave a well below the feed holes to catch water and heavy dirt. I am not being at all original here, for it is always done in big practice and works wonders on motorbikes, anyway. The second tip is just this: Gray’s are the cheapest and best people for silver solder. Their grades B and C are the stuff for us, and the price is half what some people want, so don’t go paying four bob an ounce. There is one other point about the petrolfeed business, and that is centrifugal action caused by the circular course of the boat. | believe it is this force that has caused petrol starvation on one or two boats using gravityfeed with a low head. It is as well, therefore, to keep your petrol tank on the same side as the carburettor, if lateral balance permits. Taps in the petrol-feed line are quite unnecessary if the carburettor is right, for it should maintain the level just below the top of the jet. If you havea sloping jet, however, capillary action may set in and necessitate one. Having said quite a bit about engines and the bits and pieces directly connected therewith, I will leave this side of the subject for the time being, and deal with a few hull fittings, and one or two points of construction. The obvious thing to go to first is the bed the engine rests on in the boat. This usually consists of two blocks of wood, fixed either to two long timber runners going the length of the boat, or direct on to the bottom and step piece. Of the two methods of fixing 240 MARINE the blocks, I greatly prefer the former, and take the added precaution of finishing the blocks a full eighth of an inch above the bottom, so that the load is definitely spread by the runners. Fixing these blocks is rather an awkward business, when holes have to be drilled after the runners are in, and I must confess that I have been reduced to using a red-hot nail at times. Bolts should always be used in preference to screws, and further rigidity may be obtained by varnishing the faces before they are pulled together. The propeller shaft is apparently a straightforward fitting jib, but, in fact, it is impossible to line it up accurately. We get out of this difficulty by doing all we can to get the bits in the right place, and then break the shaft with universal joints at the engine and stern tube and, since the original tube is still quite all right, we seem to have been successful. These two universal joints are very simple, consisting, as they do, of the squaredoff shaft working in a square hole in the driving nut, and a square-holed sleeve over the two squared shaft ends at the stern tube. The various squares working from either end are a slack fit, a drive fit, and a slack fit. This would not, of course, be sufficient if they had much work to do, but we see that they don’t. Some people fit their engines vertical, and have to fit a wide angle universal joint to the front end of the shaft. I am afraid I cannot agree with this practice, and much prefer to slope the engine. The drive shaft itself need not be larger than 3/16in. dia., and most of us use silver steel in its soft state. Silver steel is, I must admit, a bit of a danger, for it is apt to be short, and therefore liable to fracture. Stainless steel is a better proposition if you don’t wish to solder the universal ends on as we do, as it takes solder or brazing very poorly— though either can be done if you are careful and lucky. Of course, if you want any hard bits, either in the shaft or the added ends, don’t use silver or carbon steel, but casehardened mild steel. Stern tube design has been quite elaborate at times, but, again, we find simplicity answers as well, if not better. All we use is a piece of ordinary commercial brass tube of 3/16in. bore and Hin. outside diameter. The inside is reamed out after straightening, and another piece soldered on to form an oil feed. No packing glands are required, and such elaborations as ball races are a sheer waste MODELS of time and money. The tube is soldered to a brass plate, the fitting being done after the engine and skeg are in place. The plate is positioned with two screws, and an unbroken shaft is used to hold the tube where you want it; it is then tacked with solder in two places, using a hot iron. The bits afe then removed from the hull and the soldering finished without altering the position of the tube. A CANADIAN 10-RATER ** GALATEA ” This excellent photograph shows a 10-rater model built by Mr. W. H. Hartnell, of Montreal, from the design given in “ Model Sailing Craft” (W.H. Daniels & H. B. Tucker). Unfortunately “ Galatea” has no local rivals and has had no opportunity of racing. This design produces a fast and able model. MARINE MODELS 241 MODELS VERSUS FULL-SCALE YACHTS BY “Kee In this article ““K” shows where he disagrees with Mr. C. O. Liljegren. The question of the relation of the model to the full-scale yacht is of great interest, and opinions of experts disagree. R. LILJEGREN M essential points in Professor Taylor’s has overlooked article of January last. two The latter dis- cusses a method of testing the shapes of yacht forms by means of replica models. He does not discuss the strengths of their individual materials—a different subject entirely. For the sake of brevity please, may these gentlemen be referred to as the American and the Professor, respectively? The Professor says: ‘‘ We therefore come to the important conclusion that exact similarity between the performance of a model and that of a full-scale ship may be obtained both in regard to speed, wave making and angle of heel, if the wind which affects the model is vs of the wind on the full-scale ship.” It follows therefore that they must be sailed in different winds. Under these conditions the relative heading of the wind as they travel is the same in each case. The idea can be extended similarly to the sheeting of the sails and even to the deflection or bending of the spars, but—as the Professor says—under certain conditions only, which he defines. The American assumes in his opening para- graph of his June letter that the model and the yacht heel in the same wind—a different state of affairs altogether—hence the fog which requires dispersal. He then proceeds to show that the weight of rigging and hull generally is proportionally heavier for yachts than for models—hence the former cannot carry such a high proportion of lead as the model. The American must face the fact that this is well known and, as the writer stated in his July letter, “ the application of the Professor’s principles requires the application of common sense born of experience.” The American describes the Professor’s conclusions as “undiluted bunk ”—this is no argument—and sighs for the days of forty years ago, when experts (for whom, seemingly, he has no use whatsoever) did not meddle with yachts’ scantlings. He proceeds onwards to exaggeration— “ Britannia,” “* Satanita,” ‘* Valkyrie II,” etc., could not carry their full canvas in a tremen- dous gale, and neither could they gybe (all standing) under these conditions without grave risk. He even adds that nothing snapped. “ Calluna,” which was in that famous fleet, broke her mainboom whilst gybing—the jagged broken end came inboard and pinned one of the crew against the mast with dreadful results. ‘“ Navahoe,” the American cutter or sloop, relieved the strain on her gear by doing her utmost to capsize—she was woefully crank. Contrary to the American’s statements, there were complaints in the Press about the frequency of breakdowns—it was rarely that the whole fleet could sail together for that reason—and the items of the breakdowns have been pilloried. At the time when “Enterprise” and ‘* Shamrock ” were built to Lloyd’s hull scantlings, the builders were left with a free hand for spars and rigging. There was no expert interference and dismasting in the various classes was quite common on each side of the Atlantic. Dismasting seems to be less common since the governing authorities (who consult the builders themselves) issued scantling rules, and certainly it seems as though some form of supervision of builders and designers has been beneficial. In one class the main shroud and its attachments are specified to be capable of carrying the weight of the boat. How on earth can the American suggest that the experts are fools? If, perchance, as he states, they have erred in the scantlings for a 14.5 metre yacht’s mast—they are quite human and would, no doubt, consider his objections on their merits in an open-minded way for the common good, if he were to forward them to the proper quarter. If he has not done so he is invited to do so now. Your readers will appreciate the American’s pride in beating the Britisher at Kiel but a year or so after the won the same race is believed, after several sailing replica late Mr. Linton Hope with ‘ Antwerpia,” it extensive trials with models at Surbiton, in 242 MARINE order to determine the best shapes of hull and sail plan. The models were from five to six feet long and probably had bits-of string for shrouds. In the published account of the tests no reference was made to the strength of the materials, and being a wise man he would be expected to rely on his successful full-sized yacht experience for his scantlings. —— z — Mr. Stephen did the same with “ Maida,” and, heavy weather boat as she was, she beat the American Seawanhaka Cup competitor in very light weather whenever the wind was forward of the beam. The peculiar antics of parachute spinnakers are difficult, if not impossible, to control in models, and it was only when the American had the wind abaft the beam that she could draw away. Perhaps it was unfortunate from the point of view of models that she drew away so fast! Racing models, unlike test models, are not replicas, as exactly as is practicable, of racing yachts by any means—1t is hoped that no one has suggested that they are—but as the Professor and the American point out they have under certain conditions, which have been defined, points of really remarkable similarity in shape and sailing action, whilst at the same time there are many differences, particularly in the strength of the materials. SUNSHINE MODELS The ideas of the Professor and the American do not even clash—no modifications to the views of the former seem to be involved —they speak on different subjects—one on shape, the other on strength. This is why the opinion was expressed that the American did not understand the Professor. IN LIEU OF A LONG ARM All deck fittings on a model yacht should be situated so that the screws holding them in position go through into a deck-beam. As decks are so thin, when this is not possible, it is necessary to glue a reinforcement piece (usually {in. mahogany) to the underside of the deck. When, however, it is necessary to move a fitting to a spot where there is no beam, and where no reinforcement piece is provided, what is to be done when the spot is too far from the hatch to place a reinforcement under the deck by hand? The best way to overcome this difficulty is to bore the screwhole in the deck, pass a piece of fine copper wire through, catch this wire inside the hull, and bring its end to the hatch. Next, take the piece of wood intended to act as reinforcement piece, bore a suitable hole and pass the wire through it. By means of the wire pull the piece of wood into position, and hold it there until the screw holding the fitting has cut the wire off short at the the deck. In this way fittings or repairs executed in places be practically impossible. AND been inserted. Then point it comes out of can be screwed down that would otherwise BREEZE 7 a Photo: Jas. S. Hutton This is not the Clyde 6-metres racing, but a photograph of the Saltcoats M.Y. Club’s fleet of 6-m. models out for a spin on the new lake at West Bay. Photograph and full description of this fine water appeared in our October number. MARINE HOW TO MAKE STEAMER MODELS 243 MODEL SHIP AND FITTINGS By A. P. IsaRD, A.M.I.Mech.E. (Continued from page T is impossible for even the very best skippers to prevent ships and boats occasionally bumping, when being brought alongside either a quayside or another boat. In order to avoid damage, fendoffs (or fenders) are used. Fig. 69 illustrates a number of different patterns. (a) Is a long, cylindrical canvas bag, stuffed board tight with granulated cork, with a light tying line running right through its centre, as shown; these are called gangway fendoffs, and are usually painted white. (b) This type of fendoff is very much heavier, and is made from manilla or coir. It is tightly wound and used between the ship’s side and the quay or other substantial object, or anywhere where a considerable squeeze is likely. Big ships often use logs or bundles of sticks. (c) A small rectangular canvas pad, stuffed with granulated cork and painted white, for use on a boat’s gunwale; the two tyers are bent over the gunwale on to any convenient spot. vd) A leather circular pad stuffed with either cork or horse hair, board tight, with a leather thong with eyelets; used on smart yacht dinghies, the leather being left natural colour. (e) A bow fendoff of manilla or coir, a very common sight round the nose of a steam tug and similar craft. For our model work they may be made of solid wood for the core, covered with the proper covering accordingly, afterwards, and painted A gangway fendoff may be made by simply rolling, very tightly, ordinary white cotton tape of the correct width, round a piece of fishing line to form the tyer. If it is desired to give a nice manilla or coir colour finish, they can be dipped in solignum, but ordinary black coffee, boiled well, will make a very good fast dye. Fendoffs are not carried by ships and boats when under way, with the exception of tugboats and other duty boats; a yacht trailing her fendoffs in the water would probably denote a careless crew. 191.) Mast Sockets (Fig. 70). These may be sunk, 1.e., reversed to that shown in the sketch; or, again, they may be at an angle if the mast is not vertical. A mast is usually carried right through the deck and its foot or heel housed on the keelson. Most sailing boats are so fitted, this giving very obvious rigidity. In small, powerdriven vessels, where the masts are mostly for signalling and hoisting purposes, they are often housed in tabernacles; for light masts a socket fitting is all that is necessary, as the stays will do the rest. In the case of a vertical fitting the easiest method of making is to turn up in the lathe from the solid, completing the whole before removing from the chuck, but if it is desired to make one at an angle, first, very careful ly, ascertain the exact rake of and draw this out on a piece of paper. Now take a piece of tubing, chuck this in the lathe and bore out and turn the outside to the required sizes, take a piece of scrap wood and chuck this in the lathe and turn up a mandrel to fit the piece of tube tightly ; remove from chuck after forcing the tube partly on. Hold the mandrel tightly in the. vyce with the tube upwards, but clear of the jaws, and push the whole thing at the exact angle of the rake, using your paper angle drawing as a guide; get it to coincide absolutely; now take up your file and file away the top of the tube dead parallei to the jaws of your vyce; provided you have set it up properly in the vyce, together with the correct use of the file, your tube will be at the correct angle; but do not yet remove from mandrel. Take mandrel with tube from vyce, select a piece of suitable flat brass sheet and cut this with a pair of tinman’s snips as near as possible to size; drill out centre hole to the exact size as the outside diameter of your tube. As the tube is cut off at an angle, however, it will need a slightly oval hole in the plate. The two ends of the hole will accordingly have to be eased off with a rat-tail file until the tube fits at the desired angle. 244 |ass: Ret coe | ‘ ote ‘ i ‘ Li ‘ | | |