The Model Yacht: Volume 5, Number 1 – Spring/Summer 2001

LINCOLN MEMORIAL POOL, WASHINGTON, D.C. NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME FIVE, NUMBER ONE SPRING/SUMMER 2001 NEWSLETTER OF THE U.S. VINTAGE MODEL YACHT GROUP VOLUME FIVE, NUMBER ONE SPRING/SUMMER 2000 Editor’s Welcome As usual, the Spring issue is late. This time I’ve adopted the strategy of “if you can’t raise the bridge, lower the river,” and renamed it Spring/Summer. Also as usual, there is a number beside your name which is the volume and number of the last issue we think we owe you. This is Volume 5, Number 1, so if you see “51” by your name, this is it. There also should be a renewal form and self-addressed envelope to help you “re-up” for three more issues. If you think we’ve got it wrong, just let us know at the masthead address and we’ll make it right. This issue features two designs, the schooner “Atlantic” and the J Boat “Yankee,” that at one time were owned by the same man, whose story is interesting in its own right. In the case of “Yankee,” we have been lucky enough to obtain plans and instructions for a 36” LOA sailing replica, “Yankee Jr.,” designed by John Black in 1935. Those of you who met Steve Crewes from Australia at San Francisco or Marblehead should enjoy his recounting of his latest find “down under.” I’ve greatly enjoyed putting this issue together, and I hope you enjoy reading it. Earl Boebert Ebbs and Flows The President’s Message Vintage Membership Our annual fee for three issues of the VMYG newsletter, “The Model Yacht”, is $20. This also provides access to technical assistance and vintage model plans. A VMYG lifetime membership is $100. Our “how to” book/ video package on plank-on-frame model construction is available, but not with the fee. To subscribe to our newsletter/services or for renewals, send a check (payable to US VMYG) or cash for $20 (or $100) to: John Snow, c/o US VMYG, 78 East Orchard St., Marblehead, MA 01945. For inquiries on our activities, either call me @ 781-631-4203 or visit the VMYG Web Page at www.swcp.com/usvmyg R/C “Vintage M” (VM) Group 2001 national VM regatta is November 3-4 at Tampa, FL. There are two VM model categories: 1945 and prior designs, “Traditional M”, and post-1945 through 1970 designs, “High Flyer M”. For rating rules and VM registration contact Charlie Roden, VM Coordinator, at 19 Oak Glen Ln., Colts Neck, NJ 07722 and 732-462-7483. Email: cer@monmouth.com Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Models Group – 2001 national racing/display regatta for R/C traditional sailing/scale models is August 4-5 at the Mystic Seaport Museum, CT. It will include scratch-built schooner models, schooners having fin & bulb keels Page 1 and those built from kits, plus other traditional sailing designs. Schooner rules are available from Harry Mote our Traditional Sailing Craft Coordinator at 18 Woodmansee Blvd, Barnegat, NJ 08005 and 609-660-0100. Email: stryker@cybercomm.net Vintage Etcetera 2001 Mystic Seaport Regatta It is being spon- sored by the VMYG and AMYA August 2-5 and features the national traditional sailing craft/scale model regatta, US-1M Class national and regional J Class championships, plus an indoor model exhibit. There will be “hands-on”, R/C sailing for visitors and formal presentations on model yachting. A unique attraction from Australia will be the 12-foot R/C sailing replica of L. Francis Herreshoff’s famous 1930s Ticonderoga racing yacht. I am the contact for J model racing and regatta exhibit; Harry Mote for traditional sailing model racing/display contest. Information on this and other 2001 special events can also be found on the Mystic Seaport Web Page at www.mysticseaport.org Discounted Seaport tickets for this regatta and other Museum attractions are available, with free passes for skippers, exhibitors and volunteers. 2001 VM Regatta Golden Triangle MYC will host the 2001 national VM regatta in Tampa, FL November 3-4. It features R/C VM model racing and display competitions. Attendees can also view vintage pond yacht exhibit at the Henry B. Plant Museum. Thom McLaughlin, VM regatta coordinator, worked to help develop this exhibit. A Class Regatta Plans are being considered to stage an A Class national championship next summer at the 2002 Mystic model yacht regatta. The goal would be to increase the visibility of R/C A boats and expand their activities, similar to what was done for the J Class at 2000 Mystic event. As details are available, the VMYG A Class coordinator, Rod Carr, will distribute more information on this A Class regatta. VM Building Project This mentoring course for youths had its first student-built VM’s launched at Redd’s Pond in May. It is based on a 1947 M design and is crafted to provide an affordable, ready-to-sail R/C fiberglass model having a classic design. Dale Wen- ninger, the developer, can be contacted at 781-598-6957 and Pdwenn@ne.mediaone.net John Black Articles Thanks to Alain Jousse and Paul Holmes, the VMYG has vintage wooden model building articles by noted US model yachtsman John Black. These were written as a series of columns, “Yachting With Models”, for Boston Transcript newspaper in 1935. Those having John Black’s 1939 book will note the book and column titles are the same. This series has 18-inch and 36-inch models “Dart” and “Yankee Jr.” “Dart” was a model built in school manual arts courses of that era, while the “Yankee Jr.” plan was based on the “Yankee” J Boat raced in the 1930 America’s Cup competitions. More details in the technical supplement to this issue. Remaining 2001 Vintage Activities WoodenBoat Show – June 22-24 Michigan Maritime Museum, South Haven, MI; Vintage racing class/sailing craft displays and demos; exhibits of full-size wooden sail/ power/rowing boats and accessories/maritime interest items by trades people. Volunteers and vintage models welcomed. VMYG Contacts – Alan Suydam 248-476-3017; John Snow 781-631-4203 3rd SFMYC Invitational Regatta – June 23-24 Spreckles Lake, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, CA; Free sail racing with models to the SFMYC Restricted M Class rules; tune-up for July free sail races in England. SFMYC Contact – Jeff Stobbe 831-475-6233 International Free Sail Regattas – July 22-28 Round, Bourneville & Fleetwood Ponds, England; free sail racing with vintage and SFMYC Restricted M Class models with many US skippers and models expected. SFMYC Coordinator – Jeff Stobbe 831-4756233; cjstobbe@pacbell.net 2nd Annual Model Yacht Regatta – August 2-5 Mystic Seaport, CT; VMYG national regatta for R/C traditional sailing craft/scale (schooner) models; AMYA US-1M and J Class championships; and VMYG traditional sailing craft models exhibit. Volunteers and traditional models welcomed. VMYG Contacts John Snow 781-631-4203; Harry Mote 609660-0100 for Traditional Models Page 2 More Six-foot Schooners WoodenBoat School Model Course – August 12-18 Brooklin, ME; Six-day course on building wooden 1940s vintage M Class model yacht.WoodenBoat School – 207-359-4651; VMYG Contact – Thom McLaughlin 813-2516919 19th Annual Antique & Classic Boat Festival – August 25 & 26 Salem Harbor Marina, MA; VMYG exhibit booth and R/C vintage model sailing demos. VMYG Contact – John Snow 781-631-4203 Annual Free Sail Model Regatta – October 7 Red Beach, Menemsha Pond, Martha’s Vineyard, MA; Children and adult races for scratchbuilt, free-sailed wooden models one meter and under. Regatta Contact – Spa Tharpe 508645-3688 Introduction Two more large schooners have been built, these two in the Cincinnati area, by brothers Tom and Dick Pratt. Following is Tom’s description of their thinking on these large schooners and how they built them. As of February, owners of several six-foot schooners were considering bringing their boats to the AMYA/USVMYG model yachting event at Mystic Seaport Museum, Mystic, Ct., August 1-5, 2001. Tom can be reached at Thomas A. Pratt, 6517 Morrow Rossburg Rd., Morrow, OH 45152, tomsbarn@go-concepts.com. Harry Mote Seventh National Vintage Regatta – November 3-4 Tampa, FL; R/C VM model racing and display competitions. Visit to Henry Plant Museum historical exhibit on model yachting. VMYG Contacts – Thom McLaughlin 813-251-6919; Charlie Roden 732-462-7462 for VM Models John Snow Building “Bluenose” Brother Dick and I picked “Bluenose” because, though built in Nova Scotia, she probably represents the peak in beauty and development of the now extinct Americanstyle fishing schooner. Her 18 consecutive wins in her racing career is testimony to her design. The plans for “Bluenose” were obtained from the Museum of the Atlantic, Halifax, N.S. We then enlarged the lines to a scale of 1/2” Page 3 to the foot. This gave a hull length of 71-1/ 2” This does not include the bowsprit or the main boom overhang, which adds another 17” to produce a model 7’ 4-1/2” overall. With the topmasts down it will just fit into the back of a minivan with the seats removed. This size is not much of a problem as you can still easily transport it. A wheeled cart though is a must for launching. The plans included hull lines and sail plan only, with limited details of deck and standing and running rigging. A fine book by L.B. Jenson, Bluenose 2, Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners, provides excellent measured drawings and rigging details taken directly from “Bluenose 2.” Another book, The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935, by Howard I. Chapelle, is a must-read for anyone interested in or building one of these great ships. The book traces the evolution of the American fishing schooner through the last working and racing schooners of the mid-1930s. The author has recorded in detail the nearly lost art of great wooden shipbuilding. For construction we chose plank on frame. Plywood frames were spaced on 4-1/2” centers on a one-piece white oak keel 7/16” thick. Planking was red cedar 3/16” thick by 13/32” wide. I calculated the scale planking width to be 13/32”, which gave the correct number of planks from garboard to shear. My intention was to have the planking seams visible on the outside of the hull and scale planks were required. By carefully calculating the taper at both ends, no dagger or stealer planks were necessary. “Bluenose” at rest. She will certainly make a fine sight on the water. Page 4 for scale models. I had to settle for 2.5-oz., which was heavier than I wanted. It turned out to be over 3 oz. For static models it looks good and will probably sail OK, but 2 oz. would have been better. The sails are held to the masts with wooden mast hoops, made by rolling and gluing 1/64” plywood into tubes and then slicing the tubes into hoops on a lathe. The masts required two sizes — 1-3/16” diameter for the masts and 5/8” in diameter for the top masts. They work well, look real and are very strong. Most of the sails are controlled by a large loop below deck. The mainsail, because of its large size, has its own winch. This shows the impressive detail that can be incorporated in a model of impressive size The outside was given several coats of epoxy resin, then primed and painted. The inside was epoxy/fiberglassed to seal it and add strength. This sounds backwards, but glass on the outside would have obscured the planking detail. The deck was built from 1/16” plywood glued directly onto the deck beams and 1/8” x 1/4” wide fir deck planking laid on top of the plywood. The 1/8” edges of the planks were painted a dark color so that when laid edge to edge the planking seams were visible. The deck planks were nibbed into mahogany waterways, bow to stern. Bulwarks and timberheads were added and capped with mahogany main rails. The aft monkey rails and trim are also of mahogany. Deck details include main cabin, steering box, hatches, mainmast fife rail assembly, chain box, fo’c’sle companionway, winch engine housing, hand bilge pumps, deck machinery, fishing dories and cradles, skylights, anchors, chain, etc. Details are made of white oak, mahogany and rosewood. As of this point in time, ballasting will wait until spring. We’ve calculated that it will take 25 to 30 lb. to bring the model to its waterline. We do not plan to make the ballast removable, as all of the deck hatches and removable cabins are too small and are needed for access to sail control apparatus. The only part of the model that is not to scale is the rudder, which was increased in size 25% to help steering. However, I’m afraid I got carried away with the details — the schooner looks more like a static model than a practical sailing model. As a result, I’m reluctant to put it in the water. When my brother saw what I was doing, he suggested we pull a mold off his hull and lay up some epoxy/glass hulls that we could finish for everyday transport and sailing. Tom Pratt Masts, topmasts and other spars are of spruce. The masts go through the deck and are stepped on the oak keel. The top masts are held in place by mast caps at the top of the masts and by a gate and pin (known as a fid) at the cross tree and trestle. The top masts, with all rigging and sails, can be lowered by pulling the pin and letting the masts slide down through the mast cap bands, making the main mast 20” shorter, so the boat will fit in a minivan. Obtaining sail material proved to be somewhat of a problem. It appears that little is made in Dacron in weights that are suitable Page 5 A stern view, highlighting the fair lines of the original, accurately captured in the model. The Schooner Yacht “Atlantic” as a Model As L. Francis Herreshoff said in his book, An Introduction to Yachting, “Atlantic was a handsome vessel that lasted a long time.” In 1905, when Atlantic won the Kaiser’s Cup, she set a trans-Atlantic record of 12 days, 4 hrs., 1 min. Kaiser Wilhelm II was very much interested in large schooners and presented an elaborate trophy. The race, on May 17, 1905, was from the Sandy Hook Lightship to The Needles, off the Isle of Wight, England. At the time, this event was one of the most talked about sailing events ever, because it included so many large, fine vessels. The eleven competitors flew flags from America, Germany and England. “Atlantic’s” record stood until only recently when it was broken by a modern trimaran in a single-handed trans-Atlantic race. Herreshoff on “Atlantic” Following is what L. Francis had to say about her: ““Atlantic” was a fine, three-masted steel schooner designed by William Gardner and built in 1903. She was an auxiliary with a good size steam power plant. She won both the Cape May and the Brenton’s Reef cups in 1904. She was built for Wilson Marshall and when he decided to enter her in the Kaiser’s ocean race he at once engaged Captain Charlie Barr to sail her and prepare her for the race. Before this she had a large quantity of inside ballast but at large expense this was taken out and cast into an outside keel that was secured below her original steel keel plate. This was said to have greatly improved her, but she was too low freeboard amidships and had high bulwarks so that when driven hard she carried tons of water on deck which ran fore and aft as she pitched, and Charlie Barr told me he had to wear hip boots at the steering wheel when she heeled much. She was 187 ft. long overall, 137 ft. WL, 29 ft. beam, 303 tons and was undoubtedly a fast sailor in medium beam breezes but very dull to windward in light airs and hard to get up to a high speed length ratio when her rail was under, so Charlie Barr did remarkably well with her.” In all fairness to Atlantic and her designer, Atlantic was designed as a large, beautiful cruising schooner with an “good size steam power plant” that was intended to steam to windward a good part of the time. She was also relatively shallow in proportion to her length, to keep her draft down for cruising, and would not carry her sail as well as deeper vessels. Add her many sails, and it is no surprise that she was “very dull to windward in light airs.” But she’d certainly go like a demon off the wind, as she apparently did in the Kaiser’s Cup. As a radio controlled model, she would have to be built large, possibly six feet or longer, to reduce the scaledown effect because of her original 187 ft. in length. She would not make a good 50-in. sailing model. In addition, she may require a short fin and bulb to sail well. Even so, her many sails would make her not especially weatherly. But she’d be a grand and beautiful sight to see on any pond. Harry Mote Page 6 Page 7 This drawing was extracted from a 1/8” to the foot plan produced by the Boucher company in 1935. The remainder of the plan contains sufficient detail to produce an accurate scale model. Copies of this plan are available from the Vintage Group, as described elsewhere in this issue. The Search for the Sydney Model Yacht Continues. Editor’s Note The most amazing things come out of Australia. It’s home not only to unique flora and fauna, but has a model yachting tradition that may turn out to be older than that of either England or the United States. Our colleague Steve Crewes has been documenting this history for a couple of years. Here’s the latest installment; the hints on collecting historical material are worth studying. Earl Boebert The Search Continues Since we started about 2 years ago looking for the Sydney Model Yacht we have traveled many sometimes fruitless miles. As the people who take part in these type of searches know, little finds make it all worthwhile, big finds are mind blowing. These searches take on tasks associated with detective-like work, searches of family trees, old newspaper probes, scrapbooks, the telephone directory and so on, just to get that snippet, maybe the last snippet to start the ball rolling for a great find. Luck plays a really important part, more than what I thought at first. Take the search I’m now on: In search of V.R. Blacket, the designer of the boat “Dawn,” described in Marine Models in l936. Mr. Blacket in 1936 was a modern model yacht designer, President of the NSW Model Yacht Club in Sydney Australia. His boat was described as modern with a lot of innovations. Whacko! Here is the researchers dream person. The search begins, to find out about this person, We know that the Blacket family is a pretty famous old family in NSW, goes back to year dot. This is going to be a piece of cake, The Blacket family is known as architects specializing in fine buildings and churches, the family name is spelled with only one “T” and not with the usual two. For some two years now I have had a newspaper cutting showing two people sailing some model yachts at Dee Why in Sydney, one V.R. Blacket and son Luke, no date on it1. Earl Boebert of New Mexico sent me an article out of Marine Models circa 1936 showing the same boat that’s in my photo as a plan, WOW a match. Is this luck? A little side issue pops up here. Earl then sends me an inquiry notice from a person in Belmont NSW (a cute little lake side town about 100 miles north of Sydney) who’s interested in a boat their grandfather acquired in, you guessed it, 1936. This boat is unusual in that no one can identify it, although the sail has a 6 M on it and is a full keeler like “Dawn. “I’m to see the boat in a couple of days time and talk to the original owner’s son, who’s 76 years old now and will record an interview with him. Well, today’s the day when I head north to see this mystery boat. I’ve done some home work on this problem boat that no one can identify or rig properly. I’ve got some photos off the email Earl sent me, various photos of different parts to this boat. I then went through what data I have gleaned from various sources including, Sunday Sailors by Don Kihlstrom, model makers manuals, various 1. V.R. Blacket didn’t have a son called Luke, according to the family tree. The boat discoverd by Steve Crewes. Note the jib radial and other features identical to the plan on the opposite page. She evidently has been re-rigged, losing her wishbone boom in the process. Page 8 Page 9 type of vane gears, etc. Till one actually “eye balls” this craft it is only summation on what it is. There is an “air” about it of Herreshoff but just an inkling. Probably to do with the main boom at 45deg and sewn into the sail, in the main boom arrangement. Now I could have gone in and “eyeballed” the model, but the way to do this properly is to talk to the old man first and put him on tape. The tape is the most important thing now. I ask him the usual questions like “How Ya Going Mate” (standard Aussie greeting). Get his first question, “What do you remember about model sailing”, and work on from there. Who? What? Where? How? It is important you set the stage, you turn the tape on quickly after asking them. In this initial period some of the best material comes forward. Then try to expand on the questions, such as: He told me his father took them sailing on Sunday, so the next question is, “How did you get there?” The family said he couldn’t remember much, I managed to get him to stop after one and a half hours of asking him questions and him reminiscing, not bad from a bloke who couldn’t remember much, eh? We proceeded on to the boat. First thing I noticed was the sails didn’t fit the boat at all. Yes, the sail had a 6 M on them, they were professionally made (English) with a registration number 10, below the 6M. The boat hull was in excellent condition. The fittings were all professionally made, everything about this boat was not amateur built. The planking was some of the best I’ve seen, even in museums. The planks were nailed to the ribs down the side of the hull at the ribs in alternate lines and neatly turned over inside throughout the entire hull inside (I checked). The Deck neatly etched out with imitation deck planking in Indian ink and varnished. It had a Berg vane on it, circa 1932. The most amazing thing about this boat I left to last. This boat is exactly the same length, the same LWL, and the same weight, and looked the same as V.R. Blacket’s boat in 1936, in every detail from the vane on the back to the mast. The mast is a fully sprung one, the jib boom is the same arrangement as well, not close but identical. Wowee! We haven’t got Mr. Blacket yet but do we have his boat? A copy of his boat? A copy built by him? It’s one of those. The search goes on. The Newcastle Miniature sailing Club was a Gentlemen’s sailing club, for all the member model sailors had automobiles, a rare thing in Australia in 1935. And the son said about 13 cars and families came every Sunday to race their miniature yachts. Next story: The racing and their location. Steve Crewes Afterword This boat was very innovative, and not just in the early use of the vane gear. The jib radial, with its pivot aft of the jibstay attachment point, increases the curvature of the jib as it is sheeted out, was not common until after WWII. The sail plan likewise is ahead of its time with its high aspect ratio. The wishbone boom is a little hard to discern from the plan, but it consists of an arced piece on either side of the sail, with the pivot well up the mast. This form of boom was also used by Nathanael Herreshoff in the sailing models he built during his retirement in Florida. Earl Boebert 2001 Traditional Sail Scale Regatta The 2001 USVMYG Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Models Regatta will be part of a model display and multi-class regatta at Mystic Seaport Museum, Mystic, Ct., August 1-5. This second annual Model Yacht Regatta at the Mystic Seaport Shipyard includes ongoing model displays, courses in model construction, the US One Meter national class championship, the J Class eastern regional championship, a six-foot fishing schooner race, as well as the Traditional Sail Scale regatta, which includes schooners, skipjacks and other traditional sailing types. The Seaport also expects a 12-foot (1:8 scale) radio controlled model of L. Francis Herreshoff’s famous ocean racing ketch Ticonderoga. Schedule of events is included in the registration form at the end of this newsletter. The week promises a great event and much fun. We look forward to seeing you at the Seaport. Page 10 Harry Mote Make Shavings, Not Sawdust Why the title? Simple. Sawdust makes you sneeze, tracks all over the house, can form an explosive mixture, and is pretty useless once produced. Shavings look nice, are easy to clean up, and are great for lighting wood stoves and fireplaces. Sawdust is mostly made by power tools; shavings come from hand planes and chisels. This article tells you how to cheaply and easily join the Ancient and Honorable Company of Shavings Makers. Old Steel vs. New Steel It’s not hard to run into people who will claim that they just don’t make cutting tools like they used to. It’s easy to dismiss this as just another geezer sounding off about the good old days. In this case, however, they’re right. I checked this out with a metallurgist I worked with, and learned the following: Prior to 1940 or so, hand tools were sold mostly to professionals, who used them hard and for a long time. The ability to hold an edge and be resharpened was a major factor in how well your tool sold. In the same era, specialty steelmaking was a a black art. For example, during that period everybody knew that Craftsman wrenches didn’t break and nobody knew why. Secret formulas abounded, and some of them were pretty darned good. Then the hand tool market became the domain of the hobbyist and home handyman, and price became more important. The Stanley 101, essentially a 100 without the “squirrel tail” handle. This may be the most common miniature plane in existance. Also, people learned how to surface harden steels, so blades could be shaped when soft and then hardened. The resulting tool came with a decent edge, held it for a while, and could be sharpened once or twice before you ground down into the “soft stuff” and the tool was gone. This is plenty good enough for the occasional user, but not so hot if you want something that will really cut. The exception to all this are the blades made by specialty knife and blade craftsmen, of which Ron Hock1 is an example. He hand makes blades to fit many of the planes I describe, and a properly sharpened Hock blade cuts like something Merlin had a hand in. So you’re not just being nostalgic if you prefer a pre-WWII blade. The principal manufacturers in those days were Stanley, Millers Falls, and (a distant third) Sargent. Old Stanley tools have a mystique and avid collectors, and as a result cost much more than Millers Falls; I’ve found the quality of the latter to be more than adequate. Nomenclature and Uses I use three basic types of planes in building a plank on frame boat: miniature planes, a rabbet plane, and a 6” block plane. The miniature planes are for the small stuff, the rabbet plane is for, well, rabbets, and the 6” block plane is used for tapering planks, fairing hulls, and making masts. Miniature Planes The basic miniature plane, and my favorite for small work is the Stanley 100/Millers Falls 33. This plane has a “squirrel tail” handle that fits nicely in the palm, increases control, and reduces fatigue. The Stanley 101/Millers Falls 55 is the same plane A Stanley 100 miniature plane, designed to fit into the palm of your hand. Page 11 1. www.hocktools.com without the extra handle. If the Stanley has a “mushroom” shaped screw clamping the blade, it’s an old one. If it has a red plate holding the blade, it’s toward the end of the production run. When Stanley started going downhill they made a stamped metal version of the 101 which is pure junk. Rabbet It’s my pleasure to restore a couple of these every year and present them on a display base as the USVMYG Craftsmanship Trophy at the San Francisco M Class Invitational and our VM class National Regattas, as a way of resuming the old tradition of giving tools as prizes. The bodies and blades of both planes can be cut and ground to a variety of special shapes for special purposes. Nathanael Herreshoff, who designed his boats by carving half hulls, made a whole raft of these for his own use. The most useful modification is to cut off the body about 1/8” ahead of the throat (the slot the blade goes in) to make a “bullnose” version that can get into tight spots.1 A series of keel cross-sections for a fin-keel boat, laid out like a station plan, showing the rabbet, or longitudinal notch for the planks. Rabbet planes were designed for just this task. originals are pretty expensive. Luckily, as Ed Martin describes in his review, reproductions are available at much better prices. John Black, designer of the “Cheerio” series of M boats and the “Bostonia” series of A’s, was a shop teacher by profession, and he convinced the Stanley works to put out a specialized plane based on the No. 100. This is the 100 1/2, which has a double curvature to the sole (the part that rubs against the wood) and a curved blade. It is used to cut the garboard radius on vintage M boats and the hollow garboards of fin-keelers. It is a rare Stanley, not duplicated by Millers Falls, and Rabbet Planes Before I talk about rabbet 1. There was a small bullnose made by Stanley, the 101 1/2. This is one of the rarest of the Stanley planes and is expensive. A choppedup 100 or 101 works just as well. –Ed The specialized shape was designed for cutting the inside of a such notches. The “normal” use was to cut away the rabbet for the glass in a window or picture frame. You’ll note that the plane is narrow and the blade goes all the way to the edge of the sole. planes, I guess I’d better explain a bit about rabbets2. These, as the drawing above shows, are the lengthwise notches in the keel that take the planks. They can be a real pain to cut with a chisel. A rabbet plane, such as a Stanley 75/Millers Falls 4 makes quick work of them; you still have to start them with a chisel but then the going is pretty easy. Note how the angle changes from station to station; getting this curve nice and fair is what the rabbet plane does for you. The plane has two adjustments, one for the depth of the blade and one (the screw on the top) to adjust the throat. The one problem with rabbet planes is that because of the way the “bullnose” front is held on, they fill with shavings as you use them. No big deal, but something to be careful about. A Stanley 100 1/2 model builder’s plane. The double curved sole can just be made out. These go for big bucks to Stanley collectors; luckily, reproductions are available Page 12 2. The term has nothing to do with rodents; it is a corruption of the word “rebate.” – Ed. Block Planes Block planes were supposedly named because they were used for “blocking,” or cutting the framing of buildings to exact length. The blade is held at a lower angle than a normal plane, which enables a properly sharpened one to cut across end grain without “tearout,” or the pulling out of splinters of wood. The smallest block planes, which are perfect for our uses, are the Stanley 9 1/2/Millers Falls 16. A good block plane has three adjustments. There is a lever at the front, with a knurled locknut, that sets the size of the throat. Another lever on the back adjusts the skew of the blade so that the blade edge can be set exactly parallel to the sole. Finally, a horizontal thumbscrew permits very precise adjustment of the blade depth. All in all, a precision cutting instrument. My block plane sees service mainly in two areas: making masts and the final fairing of hulls. Now I know that aluminum masts are lighter, and stronger than wooden ones, but I much prefer the looks of a wooden mast and greatly enjoy making them. For one thing, you end up ankle deep in shavings when you’re through. The process is quite simple. I start with 3/4” Sitka spruce longeron stock from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty 1. This stuff is intended for homebuilt aircraft, and is just as clear and straight as it can be. The first thing to do is to cut the taper according to whatever plan you are using. You will be amazed the first time you do this at how easy it is to get long, straight surfaces at a gentle angle. After cutting the taper, the next thing is to knock off 1. www.aircraft-spruce.com This company also sells a “grab bag” of spruce cutoffs which is an economical source of spar and keel stock. A rabbet plane, about 4 inches long. the corners so you end up with a hexagonal cross section. Then knock those corners off and so forth until it’s round. A tiny bit of smoothing with sandpaper and you’re in business. Final fairing is the process of removing just enough material from the outside of a hull so that it doesn’t have any bumps or hollows. Before final fairing, the fairness of the hull should have been checked on the drawing board by drawing the diagonals, and on the building board by using battens to check how the planks will lie before you put them on. To fair, set the block plane to the finest possible cut. On mine, this is a cut of about a thousandth of an inch (I’m not kidding — I’ve measured the shavings.) Then take a long pass with the plane along the hull. You’ll feel it “snick” as it trims just a little off a high spot. Keep at it until you just start getting long shavings, at which point the hull is fair. You can check fairness with battens, or simply by running your finger along the curve. Now that you know that old is better than new, and what the basic models are used for, I’ll get into the “words and music”: how to find one of these beasts, how to restore it, how to sharpen the blade, and how to tune (adjust) it for best results. Finding an Old Plane A typical 6 inch block plane, in this case a Millers Falls No. 16. The number and range of adjustments make these a joy to use. The bad news is they aren’t making these things any more. The good news is they made millions of them while they were at it. They can be found at flea markets, antique fairs, and, of course, the eBay Internet auction site. Look for a plane whose description says “minor rust” or “no pitting.” Since you’re buying it to use, you don’t really care what shape the japanning (the baked enamel) is in, but collectors do, so that’s where the Page 13 bargains lie. In general, the older it looks the better the steel in the blade will be. Miniature Planes There always seems to be a handful of these up for auction on eBay at any given time. The Stanley 100’s are somewhat rare and usually more expensive than the 101’s. You should be able to get a decent 101 off of eBay for between $20 and $401. A lot of time people selling them don’t know what they are, so they list them as “toy plane,” “little block plane,” “funny little plane,” etc. As always on eBay, patience, persistence, and creativity with the search engine pays off. There were similar models made by both Millers Falls and Sargent. Rabbet Planes These get mis-labelled by sellers even more than miniature planes do — “very odd plane,” “small weird woodworking tool,” are some of the things I’ve encountered. You should be able to get one in salvageable shape for about the same price as a miniature. 1. Of course, if everybody reading this runs out and bids on the first plane they see on eBay, the price will “spike.” Be patient. — Ed. Block Planes These are usually listed correctly on eBay, because the model number is stamped on them. Prices fluctuate a lot. I got a first-rate Millers Falls 16 for $20.00 a few years ago, and have seen them go as high as $60. A Stanley 9 1/2 will typically cost about twice as much as a Millers Falls 16, and in my view just isn’t twice the value. Beware of the cheap throwaway block planes that both Stanley and Millers Falls made for wood shop classes. These don’t have the essential three adjustments, and are pretty much worthless. Restoration There are four steps to restoration: rust removal, lapping the sole, sharpening, and tuning. Before you start you need to get your favorite rust remover (I like the stuff sold by Small Parts), steel wool, and wet or dry sandpaper in grits 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1500. The latter can be found in the finishing section of an auto parts store. You’ll also need a good flat to use in sharpening and lapping the sole. You want to get a thick piece of glass or a marble slab a foot or so long and six to eight inches wide. I use the marble base to a defunct desk set. Check with your local glass place or marble monument supplier for The explosive growth of the M class caused ripples worldwide. At the same time that John Black was designing “Cheerio I” in the Boston area, the noted English designer and editor of Marine Models , W.J. Daniels, tried his hand at the class. The result was the elegant “Pocahontas.” At 14 and a half pounds she is 8 ounces too light to qualify under the San Francisco Restricted M Class rules; adding this little amount of displacement (you don’t want to just weight her down, as this would destroy her sailing lines) could be easily done by adding a bit of thickness to her fin. A few years ago Rod Carr made a fine replica to this design, which is featured in our book Building Planked Models. A series of races between “Pocahontas” and “Cheerio I” replicas could simulate the 1936 World Championship That Should Have Been. Would any of our U.K. readers care to issue a challenge? Page 14 scraps. A Corian cutout from a kitchen sink is also good. store. It has to be wide enough for the blade, Rust Removal Everybody has ideas about how to do this. As I said, I use the stuff sold by Small Parts, which appears to be a dilute form of naval jelly. The one thing you can be sure of is that none of this stuff is good for your skin, so take precautions. 1” 2” Lapping the Sole The bottom of the plane will almost certainly have warped a little with age, and is probably scratched to boot. Using the abrasive paper and flat surface, rub in a figure eight pattern until the sole is flat. If it’s really bad you’ll have to start with the 600 paper. The figure eight pattern insures that the piece is “rocked” evenly in all directions and so comes out flat. Watch the pattern of scratches as you go. When the bottom has an even pattern with no missed spots, it’s time to go down to the next level of grit. Oil just makes a mess and doesn’t help, so do it with dry paper. Sharpening the Blade There used to be, and in some circles still is, a lot of mumbo jumbo floating around on the topic of sharpening plane and chisel blades. If you believe some of these people you have to spend five years sitting cross-legged in front of a Japanese Waterstone Master before you were ready to take your first cut. As Nero Wolfe would say, Pfui. The whole business of sharpening was revolutionized a few years ago when a guy named – Steve LaMantia posted the now-legendary “scary sharp” method on the Internet.1 Fundamentally, this involves doing to blades what you just got through doing to the sole: sanding it down through various grades of dry abrasive paper on a flat until it is right. The original description, which is still worth reading, had one gluing the paper down to the flat with spray glue. I don’t even bother with that. In order to sharpen the small blades of the miniature and rabbet planes you’ll need to make a sharpening jig. The drawing shows how I made mine. The wheels are shower rollers from the parts board in a hardware 1. www.shavings.net/scary.htm Hold-Down Bolts Shower Roller, 1/8” Clearance Off Paper Blade 2 1/2 inches or so, with a couple of bolts for wing nuts to hold the blade clamped to the slanted face. I made mine out of scrap lexan; most anything that will hold a screw will do. Clamp the blade on the jig, and true it up with a square so that the edge will be at right angles to the side. If your blade is in really rough shape you may have to start with 400 or even 220 to grind it to shape. It helps to have a magnifying glass so you can see when you’ve ground the whole face of the edge flat — it’s easy to stop short. After you’ve gotten the blade shaped, then you go down through the grits. For your first couple of blades you might want to look with the magnifier to see that you have an even pattern of scratches from one grit before you go to the next finer. Around 800 or 1000 grit you’ll start getting a mirror surface. The final step is to strop the blade on an old piece of leather. Hold the blade at a 45 deg. angle and pull it in the opposite direction from the way it will cut. Do both sides. Stropping breaks off the microscopic curl which is left from the sanding process and puts a microbevel on the edge. Watch how you test it with your finger — it will indeed be scary sharp. Tuning the Plane. This involves getting the blade aligned to the sole and sticking out just a few thousands of an inch. This is easy with a block plane because of the adjustment facilities. Align the blade first, then adjust the size of the throat (wider for deeper cuts) and finally play with the blade depth until you are making those lovely paper thin shavings. The miniature and rabbet planes don’t have those fancy threaded adjustments, so this Page 15 looks tricky at first. Actually it’s easy. Get some shim stock of varying thickness. Lay the plane on your flat surface with a piece of shim under the nose to make a tiny angle between the sole and the surface. Slide the blade in place, letting its edge lie on the surface. Tighten the locking screw and take a trial cut. Adjust depth by changing the thickness of the shim stock, moving the shim in or out, or both. This may all sound like a lot of work, but most of it you only do once. Resharpening is a lot quicker than putting a blade in shape the first time, and the advantage of good steel is that you really only have to sharpen once for each boat you do. Earl Boebert Reproductions of the no. 100 and 100 1/2 are available from Woodcraft1. The reproduction no. 100 costs $79.99 and the 100 1/2 costs $69.99. I own the No.100 1/2 plane and have been pleased with it. It has a cast bronze body with a solid feel and a good finish. I also purchased a Kunz palm plane which has the same dimensions as the Stanley no. 100, but does not bill itself as a reproduction. They are carried by several catalogs. I purchased mine from Lee Valley2 for $13.95. Although it has less heft than the Woodcraft plane (weighing 6.3 oz. vs. 10.7 for the Woodcraft 100 ∫) and a less polished finish, it works just fine and is a bargain for the price. I did some research on buying an ‘original’ Stanley 100 1/2 plane by looking at a few antique tool web sites who post their inventory online. I’m not an expert, but I didn’t find anything that was price competitive with the reproduction. Ed Martin Reproduction Stanley No. 100 and 100 1/2 Planes The Stanley no. 100 and 100 1/2 planes are handy tools for boat modelers. Like many Stanley planes, they are no longer made by the original manufacturer but reproductions are available. The No. 100 palm plane has a flat sole that measures 3 5/16” by 1 5/16” and has a raised handle in the back to fit in the center of the palm, allowing the user to get a firm grip on the small plane. The No. 100 is useful for those situations where a block plan is too large and provides better control than an instrument maker’s plane. The No. 100 1/2 plane is of a similar size as the No 100, but has a unique curved sole which is ideal for carving concave areas, such as those found on model boats. Lengthwise, the plane will cut a 12” radius, and widthwise will cut a 7/8” radius. I found the plane to be invaluable when shaping the garboard radius of the boat I’m building, and also useful for carving out some of the inside of the bread-and- butter hull. The Model Yacht is published three times a year by the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. Copyright 1998,1999, 2000, 2001, U.S.V.M.Y.G. Reproduction for noncommercial purposes permitted; all other rights reserved. Editorial Address: 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 Email: boebert@swcp.com Phone: 505 823 1046 Officers of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group: President: John Snow Eastern Vice-President: Ben Martin Midwest Vice-President: Al Suydam Western Vice-President: Dominic Meo, III Southeastern Vice-President: Thom Mclaughlin Traditional/Scale Coordinator: Harry Mote Vintage M Class Coordinator: Charles Roden Classic “50” Coordinator: Dennis Lindsey Historian: Earl Boebert Archivist: Jim Dolan 1. 2. Page 16 www.woodcraft.com www.leevalley.com Yankee Jr. John Black’s Lost Design Thanks to Paul Holmes, Plaistow, NH and Alain Jousse, Portsmouth, NH we have been able to obtain not only the series of articles but also the full sized plans. Paul had acquired them from an uncle, and Alan noticed them and kindly arranged copies for us. Introduction One of the problems with mining the past for material is that every once in a while you wake up in the middle of the night with the horrible feeling that the vein is going to run out. Then, thanks to people like Steve Crewes, you discover a whole new country to study. Or, in this case, a design you’ve never heard of from a person about whom you think you’ve learned everything. In 1935, John Black was designing and building the first of his classic “Cheerio” series of M boats. He found time to design, build, and write up two beginners’ boats for the Boston Daily Transcript newspaper. One was an 18” “sharpie” and the other was a 36” LOA design based on the celebrated J boat “Yankee,” done with the cooperation of her designers. He entitled the series “Yachting With Models,” the same title he later gave to his book on building and sailing the “Cheerios.” Yankee “Yankee” was a Boston boat, Boston designed and Boston built, and carried the name of her home port of Marblehead on her stern. She was designed for the 1930 defense of the America’s Cup by Frank Paine1, and her hull was made from tobin bronze, the titanium of its day. Although “Yankee” was regarded as one of the best all-around designs of the J class, “Enterprise” proved better in the shifty airs of Newport and went on to successfully defend the Cup. Despite extensive modifications, she lost again to “Rainbow” in 1934. 1. One of Paine’s partners was Norman Skene, author of the classic Elements of Yacht Design. Skene was later tragically lost in a kayaking accident in Marblehead Harbor. “Yankee” racing in England, 1935. Note how her white topside color forms a border around her deck; she was bronze below the waterline. The rail gives the illusion of a raised deck, which was not the case. Page 17 After the Cup trials she was sold to Gerard Lambert, a character just as interesting as his yacht. Lambert’s father had invented Listerine and founded what is now Warner-Lambert Pharmaceuticals. Gerard took over the helm of the company in 1923 and made it hugely profitable. He sold out in 1928 and bought the schooner “Atlantic” from Commodore Vanderbilt. In 1931 he took charge of the failing Gillettte Safety Razor Co., turned it around and retired for good in 1931 at the age of 45. By all accounts he was a kind and generous individual and devoted much energy to the cause of subsidized housing for the poor. Lambert arranged a series of races against British J boats in 1935, and it was the publicity of these events that undoubtedly influenced John Black’s choice of a boat to model. Lambert raced “Atlantic” against a yawlrigged “Yankee” across the ocean (“Yankee” won) and then went on to a series of races that made “Yankee” one of the most photographed of the J’s. reported, without Sir Thomas’ good grace in defeat. Black’s first task in designing a sailing model was to deal with the fact that a model can never carry proportionately as much sail as the boat being modelled. Here is his analysis of the problem: It is a well known fact that a scaled miniature model of a large yacht will not make a good sailing model because of the great difference in size. This is especially so in Yankee, whose overall length is 126 feet, and our model is only three feet, just forty-two times smaller. The sail plan has length and width, and therefore varies as the square of the scale. The displacement has length, width, and depth, and it varies as the cube of the scale. The following will give an approximate comparison between the Yankee and a three-foot miniature: 41” In 1940 the European war caused the price of metals to skyrocket. Ever the shrewd businessman, Lambert had “Yankee” broken up for the 55,000 lbs. of bronze in her hull; ever the gentleman, he gave the proceeds to the London Hospital. He then gave 32” “Atlantic” to the Coast Guard for use as a trainng ship. Yankee Jr. Length over all 126 ft. 36 in. Load Waterline 83.75 ft. 22.93 in. Beam, extreme 22.5 ft. 6.43 in. Draft 15 ft. 4.3 in. Displacement 150 tons 4.3 lbs. Sail Area 7550 sq. ft. 616 sq. in. From the dimensions above it will be noticed that the miniature would carry 616 sq. in. of sail with only 4.3 lbs of displacement of which 3 lbs or less would be lead ballast. It would be impossible to carry this amount of sail except in the lightest kind of a breeze. /2” 40 1 Page 18 Miniature 1” 29” John Black was one of the most prominent model yachtsmen in the Boston area. Besides the “Cheerio” series of M boats, he is best known for his 38” “Bostonia” series of A class designs with which he unsuccessfully tried to 1/2” capture the Yachting Monthly Cup. In this endeavor he was a kind 26” of Sir Thomas Lipton of model yachting, coming back to be beaten, often by the narrowest of 11” margins, year after year; although, it must be Yankee 16” To have a miniature therefore that will actually sail, it will be necessary to increase the draft and Page 19 Thomas Darling’s “20-rater “John Black’s Yankee Jr.” percentage height of the jib attachment, etc. are the same as the original. The biggest difference is that he used the straightforward single jib instead of the “double header” rig of the full-size boat. It is instructive to compare the dimensions of “Yankee Jr.” with another 36” boat of classic lines, Thomas Darling’s “20-Rater.” Yankee Jr. 20-Rater Beam 6 3/8 in. 7 1/2 in. Draft 6 in. 5 1/2 in. Displacement 88 oz. 76 oz. Hull 20 oz. 18 oz. Ballast 52 oz. 43 oz. So the “20-Rater,” despite her slightly less draft, has more beam, more displacement, more ballast, and (as the drawings show) “harder” bilges giving greater hull stability. All these factors contribute to her ability to carry more sail. Which is the faster boat, especially in light airs, would be interesting to determine. It is likely that Black chose 450 sq. in. not only because he believed it was the amount of sail “Yankee Jr.” wold carry but also because the Marblehead 450 class, whose rating rules specified 450 sq. in. of sail with no other restrictions, was still active in the Boston area. “Yankee” in 1937, re-rigged with a single jib to challenge “Ranger” for the position of America’s Cup defender. She was the first J to be so rigged on a steady basis, making Black’s simplified rig of 1935 a proper one. reduce the sail area. The writer has spent much time in making these changes and it was not desired to change the original lines of the body plan. To this end the lead keel was lowered 1 3/4 inches, making a total draft of six inches. This required the rake of the rudder post to be changed, helping the sailing qualities greatly. The sail plan was reduced to 450 square inches. This may seem a small rig, but a narrow, easily driven hull with a small amount of lead ballast should not require much sail to drive her. Most sailing models are over canvassed. Many races are lost by carrying too much sail. In order to give the appearance of the larger boat on the water, Black was careful to maintain the precise sail proportions of the original, so the ration of boom to mast, the Construction Black took quite a bit of care to make the boat easy for a beginner to build. He specified a bread-and-butter carved hull with horizontal lifts of 1/2” thickness, so that a proper hull shape could be. Full keel hulls are difficult to plank, and it would be quite hard to get a planked hull down to the 18 oz. or less that would be necessary to get a proper amount of ballast. Black’s concern for the beginner is evident in the way he concentrated the lead around the center of gravity rather than the traditional distribution as shown in Darling’s Page 20 “20-Rater.” Other aspects of the construction are conventional. Radio Control There are two things that must be considered in building a radio version of “Yankee Jr.” One is rudder size and the other is weight. For rudder size we are lucky in that we have the work done by our New Zealand friends on their “Canterbury J” class boats, which are 48” LOA models of much the same configuration as “Yankee Jr.” I have sailed one of these boats and they maneuver quite adequately; taking their ratio of rudder to lateral plane as a guide, a radio model of “Yankee Jr.” should have a rudder of about double the width shown by Black. Weight will be the more difficult issue to deal with. It should be possible to carve a hull well under 18 oz. out of cedar, especially if you use one inch lifts to minimize the amount of glue and carve to 3/32” wall thickness with an interior reinforcement of light fiberglass cloth and a very light application of epoxy. Since hull planking will not show, other techniques such as fiberglass over balsa may also be tried. Options for a sail winch include using one of several available for the Thunder Tiger Victoria, putting a swing arm on one of the two servos that come with a typical surface radio outfit, or modifying one of the servos to make a lightweight winch. The last approach is described by our friends at Climax Boat Works1: Modifying a servo to make it in to a drum winch is very simple. You will need a standard servo, a round servo output wheel, and a drum of some kind (like a small fishing line spool). Epoxy the drum on to the output wheel. Remove the 4 screws, one in each corner of the servo. What you want to get at is the circuit board. There will be three wires going off to a potentiometer somewhere on the board. Follow these wires to the potentiometer. You need to measure the total resistance of the pot by testing it on the outer posts. You may need to remove the wires to get an accurate reading. It will probably be 300 – 500K. You need to get 2 resistors that will equal this resistance. Join them together and solder the three wires on to the resistors. The middle wire goes between the two resisters and the outer wires go to 1. the other ends of the resistors. Test everything out before putting it all back together. The servo should now be non stop. The drum will rotate as long as one of the sticks or switches is moved. They will also perform the modification for customers. A drum winch can be rigged with deck-mounted synchronous sheeting as we showed in our last issue. A VM Version Another interesting question is what would happen if one scaled up Black’s design to 50 in. LOA and 800 sq. in of sail area. There is a precedent for this sort of thing, as the Boucher company offered a M Class boat in 1935 based upon “Shamrock.” The numbers come out as follows: Linear Multiplier for Hull 1.39 Linear Multiplier for Sail Plan 1.33 Beam 8.9 in. Draft 8.34 in. Displacement 12.75 This works out as too light for the San Francisco Restricted M Class rules for a free sailing boat, but would make a perfectly reasonable VM Traditional Division radio boat, and one that might be very competitive in light air. A conservative weight breakdown might be: Hull 2.5 Lbs Radio Gear 0.75 lbs Rig 1.5 lbs Ballast 8.0 lbs. This all comes out as just a bit smaller than a “Cheerio I” and very close to the Boucher design based on “Shamrock” The result should be a perfectly reasonable boat. www.climaxboatworks.bizland.com Page 21 Earl Boebert Full Size Plans These plans are available from the Vintage Group. Unless otherwise noted, they are “lines plans” which give the shape of the hull and a schematic sail plan, like those shown for “Yankee Jr.” in this issue. Information on planning and making the scantlings (framework) of a plank on frame model are available in our book Building Planked Models ($25.00 postpaid) and the companion video ($25.00 alone, $15.00 if you have ordered the book.) Details on rigs for pre-WWII M boats are available in two of our back issues; ask for the “rigging package.” ($13.00) Please make checks out to U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. All prices are postpaid, Priority/Air Mail. Plans are rolled in a mailing tube. Add $5.00 for overseas postage (U.S. Funds only, please) those are sent folded. Send orders to: “Zip,” Two sheets. Early fin and skeg design, bread and butter construction. Very complete instructions in first issue of our newsletter. $10.00 for plans alone, $15.00 for plans and newsletter. Boucher M design, essentially a semi-scale “Shamrock” J boat hull scaled to 50.” 2 sheets, $25.00. Boucher M design by Paton Lewis, 40’s fin and skeg design, 2 sheets with some construction detail, $25.00. “Rip Tide,” by Ted Houk. Fin and bulb freesailer from 1949. Lines only. One sheet, $25.00. “Venture,” early fin and skeg boat by Howeler. Lines only. One sheet, $20.00. “Broom IV” by Selmer Larson. Lines only. One sheet, $20.00. Vintage Plans 9219 Flushing Meadows NE Albuquerque NM 87111 “Warrior I,” by Goodwin. Lines only, very rough plan but you can get the shape off it. One sheet. $20.00. 36” LOA Construction details and fullsized patterns for the sharpie “Starlet” is in a back issue of our newsletter. $6.50 Early M by Claude Horst; plans must be enlarged but complete step-by-step instructions for a carved hull and associated rigging and sailing. In a back issue of our newsletter. $6.50. Thomas Darling’s “20-rater.” Bread and butter construction, two sheets with instructions, $20.00 Other Designs Boucher “Osprey,” 36” full keel boat, can be rigged as sloop or schooner. Construction details. 4 sheets, $30.00. “Yankee Jr.,” described in this issue, single sheet with hull shape, lift patterns, and sail plan. $20.00 M Class Fin and skeg design by Richardson, one sheet, lines only, $20.00. “Helen J,” by Richardson, looks a lot like “Pocahontas,” fin and skeg with overhang, lines only, one sheet, $20.00. Boucher “Shamrock V,” 45” LOA semi-scale model of Sir Thomas Lipton’s J Boat challenger. Construction details. 2 sheets, $25.00. Boucher “Sea Gull,” 42” LOA full keel, can be rigged as marconi or gaff sloop. Construction details. 2 sheets, $25.00. Boucher “Albatross,” 50 1/4” LOA full keel design, can be rigged as marconi sloop, marconi or gaff schooner. Construction details. 2 sheets, $25.00. The schooner “Atlantic,” described in this issue. Scale (not sailing) plans at 1/8” to the foot. One sheet, $20.00 Page 22